From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2298
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 3:05 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

3. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Trickle chargers (was: That time of year again (storage))
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

5. Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Door LED's
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Door LED's
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

8. RE: Door LED's
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. RE: LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. LED Replacements.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Door LED's
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

12. I need a few pictures... please help?
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: looking for stock tool kit/jack parts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Re: Diagnostic plug
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

16. cruise via Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. Re: Re: Diagnostic plug
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

18. Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: LED's for the center console
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

21. Re: Door LED's
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

22. Re: looking for stock tool kit/jack parts
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

23. alternator ground?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

24. Re: Door LED's
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

25. Fixing the trip odometer knob/main odometer overrun
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:06:51 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: That time of year again (storage)


You still have the force of the unloaded springs pushing the 
suspension down, plus the weight of the suspension and 
brakes.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote: 
> > 
> > Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
> > droop is a bad idea. 
> 
> 
> Ok, that makes sense, but what if the wheels are removed first? 
> Without the weight of the rims and tires pulling the suspension down, 
> would it still damage the suspension? 
> 
> Richard 
> 5853 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:10:44 -0500
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


 This would be the worst thing you could do. A car needs to be driven
several miles before the combustion by- products, which include sulfuric
acid among other things, are totally scavenged or evaporated from the
crankcase and exhaust system. Starting a car and letting it idle for a time
is equally bad. Once it's been properly put to bed for the winter months
it's best to leave it until weather permits it's resurrection.

Bruce Benson

> Why not just run the car around the block every week or two to keep it
running nice instead of going to all that bother each winter?
>
> Thomas
> Vin 4087







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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:16:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



It is not a matter of the weight of the wheels "hanging" on the
suspension. The springs will push the suspension to it's limit with or
without the weight of the wheels. You need to have the springs push
against the weight of the car so the suspension will remain at "ride
height". For winter storage it really is not necessary to jack the car
up. Even if the tires get "flat-spotted" it usually goes away quickly.
This was much more of an issue with the older bias-ply tires, not so
much with steel-belted radial tires. The problem with winter storage
is in many cases it becomes long-term storage and if the car was
prepared for storage "just for the winter" it may not have  been
adequately prepared to be left alone for 10 years. I have seen way too
many cars "left for dead". It is a h-ll of a lot of work to revive
when the tank was left filled with gas, I don't care how much and what
kind of fuel stabilizer you threw in. After 10 years the tires are
garbage anyway so they won't matter if you get some flat spots or if
the battery was left in although it is always better if the battery
was removed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> > 
> > Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
> > droop is a bad idea.  
> 
> 
> Ok, that makes sense, but what if the wheels are removed first? 
> Without the weight of the rims and tires pulling the suspension down,
> would it still damage the suspension?
> 
> Richard
> 5853








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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 17:50:02 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Trickle chargers (was: That time of year again (storage))



Mike -

The Carcoon comes with a "Power and Charge" unit that when used in
conjunction with the Carcoon will serve your needs better than any
trickle charger. *Most* trickle chargers apply a constant "trickle" of
electricity to the battery, which is NOT good long term. The Carcoon
Power and Charger was designed to "exercise" the battery by monitoring
the state of the charge on the battery and applying electricity when
the charge drops below a certain point, and then stops charging once
it reaches a certain point. This will greatly lengthen the life of the
battery and eliminates the possiblity of the battey overcharging. I
think that many of the cars with acid eaten carpets were a result of
trickle chargers left on for extended periods of time.

The Power and Charger will also act as a "backup"of sorts, running the
Carcoon fans off the car battery for up to a week (depending on the
condition of the car battery) in the event of a main power failure.
Once the main power is restored, the unit then recharges the car battery.

Finally, don't bother with the car cover if you are using the Carcoon.
Kind of like wearing a belt with suspenders...let the Carcoon do it's
job and you won't need the cover.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
US Distributor for Carcoon
http://www.carcoon.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
(SNIP)
> 
> In reading the posts (thank you all for the responses) I will put 
> the battery on a trickle charger where it its heated. I will 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 10:56:43 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!


I can't imagine LED's would look very good at night time behind the center console.  The very nature of LED's would make dispersal difficult, which is what illuminates the console in the first place.  I think LED's would make the console spotty instead of warm looking. LED's may be better for some things, but in other places regular bulbs are important for the right feel instead of a cold, digital look. Change my mind with some pictures.  

Andy





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:37:57 EDT
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door LED's


 
On 3515 installed the led lights, I used the red and amber, they look  nice.
Andy


In a message dated 10/27/2004 9:33:06 AM Central Daylight Time,  
mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com writes:

Hi all,
For everyone who has  converted their door lights to LED's, I have
a question: did you go with  white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
advantage/disadvantage with  red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
saw them on a car at the last  show I was in and the owner said he had
used red and amber LED's but felt  he should have gone with white
because he thought they would be  brighter.  I don't know enough about
LED's to know if that makes sense  or not, and I know some people from
the DML have done the conversion and  others sell them, so I figured I
would pose the question  here.

Thanks,
Matt, AZ-D VeeP
VIN  16816







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 09:02:26 -0700
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Door LED's


The colored Led's will give a lot more color and be plenty bright, I put 
them in my D and love them, white will give you a washed out look, I tried 
white led's (super bright) for tail lights and was dissapointed, regular 
bulbs were much better.
Lloyd
#3502

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 9:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Door LED's


>
>
>
> Hi all,
>     For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I have
> a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
> advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
> saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said he had
> used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
> because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough about
> LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people from
> the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I figured I
> would pose the question here.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt, AZ-D VeeP
> VIN 16816
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 







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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:41:04 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Door LED's


Naturally, I will respond to this!
(who else would you imagine?) - LOL

The answer is:

Colored bulbs.

As many of you know, I specialize in selling the LED bulbs for the DeLorean.
I tested hundreds of bulbs to see which one's worked the best.
I too thought that the WHITE bulbs would give a brighter effects, and in 
fact they do.
The problem with the white bulbs is that the light beam is very concentrated 
in the center
and you end up with a white hot center where the color is washed out and 
looks milky.
This is why in most cases you do not want to use white.

For the doors, I used amber / red lights that are made of a cluster of 6 
tiny lights
that are set to wide angle, and directioned out so that you get a soft and 
even
light pattern. Now the lights in my door are bright enough that they will 
make you squint
if you look right at them....then you get to play "follow the purple dot" 
for the next minute.
How much brighter do you need it?

In most cases it is best to use the color bulb of the lens as it only 
accents it.
However, for my new console lights I used white, only because blue has the 
lowest level
of illumination in the spectrum and is not very bright, the inside of the 
console cover is
made to turn white light into blue and since these bulbs are so small they 
are not strong enough
to glow through black plastic, so there are no hot spots.

I also have a cluster kit, that will replace all the bubs in the intrument 
cluster.
For all of the colored locations, I used a colored bulb, so for instance the 
green bulb for the
headlight indicator is a rich green. When we tried it with a white bulb, it 
was milky in the center
with green around the edges, but with the green bulb it is a clean even 
color.

I hope this answers your questions about which bulbs to use and where.

If you have any other specific questions feel free to email me.
I have photos of these bulbs at:
http://www.dfwdmc.com

Thanks.
- Videobob


>From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Door LED's
>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 04:20:27 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Hi all,
>      For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I have
>a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
>advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
>saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said he had
>used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
>because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough about
>LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people from
>the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I figured I
>would pose the question here.
>
>Thanks,
>Matt, AZ-D VeeP
>VIN 16816
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:43:21 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)


About the shifter back lighting, I had thought of using a stip of Indiglo 
and running
it behind there, but that is a lot of effot.....
Sometimes nothing beats a regular ole' bulb.
- VB

>From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)
>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 05:48:02 -0000
>
>
>
>
>I've posted about these before, including photos (folder 2894), and as
>of this weekend, have a bit of new info.  I had previously not
>recommended using one in the auto shifter lighting, as it was too
>uneven.  So after putting a bulb back in, I realized the lighting in
>the shifter is uneven no matter what type of bulb.  (I have the early
>auto shifter, YMMV).
>
>Anyway, one of the white LED bulbs actually went out!  I was surprised
>at that, but I had the spare from the auto shifter, and I also had
>purchased one blue LED to see how it looked.  I tried plugging the
>blue LED into the auto shifter and it looks really nice (if you like
>blue :-)  ).  So the point I'm slowly getting to is that I recommend
>offering an extra bulb "Automatic" version of your kit when you
>release it.... just one more place to reduce heat and current draw.
>
>Next time one of my friends with a good camera is over, I'll get some
>new pics online.
>
>--Greg
>#2894
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
> > Yes, those are the same bulbs, but not the same source.
> > Since I will be buying them in bulk from the manufacturer I will get
>them
> > for less.
> > So, if you were planning to buy some of these, DO NOT order them
>from this
> > site.
> > Please wait about a week and I will have them fully tested with
>photos and
> > listed
> > on my site for much cheaper.
> > I may offer them as a package with my side marker LEDS, dash cluster
>LEDS,
> > Door light LEDS
> > and my other running lights, etc....
> > - Videobob
> >
> > >From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...>
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> > >Subject: Re: [DML] LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel
>Lights)
> > >Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 02:45:10 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Bob,
> > >
> > >     Are these the ones you found??
> > >
> > >http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
> > >
> > >For anyone who is interested, they are the BA7s (scroll down about
>3/4 down
> > >the page listed above).  For 3 bucks a piece, get 4 white and 3 red
>to do
> > >your A/C panel.  They plug right in, just as the old bulbs do.  No
>worries
> > >about polarity or improper fit.  Just put the 4 white ones in the
>sockets
> > >behind the panel, and the 3 red bulbs in the fan fail, defroster,
>and lock
> > >doors sockets.  *Be careful not to push the sockets back
>
><SNIP>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 08:24:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: LED Replacements.


Does anyone yet have a complete list, with sources for
LED conversions?  It would be something nice to
include in the tech section on the web site.




		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo 





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 10:12:39 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Door LED's


Disclaimer:  I have no knowledge of the specific LED kit in question.  I don't have LED door lights on my DMC, and when I do, I'll be building them myself from my own hand-picked ultra-bright LED components.

That said, red and amber are probably the smart choices.  Here comes the reason why, in the form of more information than you probably ever wanted to know about LEDs:

LEDs work by emitting light directly; not by filtering the light.  For example, a red LED will actually emit red light.  You don't need to (and in fact you cannot) filter the LED light to make it any other color.  The brightest red LEDs actually have a transparent lens that looks perfectly clear when off, but the light is still red.  

By contrast, incandescent bulbs emit an orange-white light, which is filtered by a lens to make it red/amber/whatever.  For example, a red lens removes the non-red parts of the light, leaving the red to pass through.  This hints at part of the reason LEDs are more efficient -- they emit the desired color directly, so you don't have to filter them to make them red/amber, throwing away much of the light in the process.

LEDs in the red/orange area of the spectrum have been around for a long time, and have seen a lot of development.  Advances have gradually permitted shorter and shorter wavelengths, giving us yellow, green and, recently, blue and violet.  The cooler colors (green/blue/violet) are harder to make in high-output form.

To make a light that looks white to humans, you need to mix the three colors we can see (red, green, blue).  You actually need a little extra blue, because our eyes are less sensitive to blue.  Blue LEDs are usually less powerful, too.  Thus, a "white" LED is usually four LEDs in one package: red, green, blue, blue.

In addition, to give the LEDs and even whiter appearance, almost all "white" LEDs use organic phospors that "glow" and enhance the output.  These break down over time, dimming the output (whereas the LED elements themselves will last just about forever).

So, to summarize, if you use an LED that's the correct color to begin with, you're benefiting because red and orange LEDs are some of the most bright and efficient LEDs around, and because they're turning electricity directly into light that's the color you want anyway, AND they'll probably last longer than your car without breaking or fading.  If you use "white" LEDs, you're using hybrid LED/phosphor technology that will fade over time, cost more to begin with, and require more electrical power.  On top of that, you're going to put it behind a red (or amber) lens and throw away all the non-red (or amber) parts of the light anyway.

Aside from being more efficient, LEDs have two other major advantages:  1) they're solid state (i.e. no moving parts), which makes them last almost forever, and 2) they turn on instantly, whereas incandescent lights fade on over the course of approximately 0.1-0.2 seconds.  For this reason, I believe LED brake lights are safer.  0.2 seconds might not sounds like a lot, but at 65MPH, 0.2 seconds is about 20 feet, which I believe could make a difference in a rear-end collision situation in some cases.  The instant-on effect is quite jarring and grabs the attention like nothing else.  If you've ever been behind a vehicle with LED turn indicators or brake lights, you've probably seen what I'm describing.

If you've made it this far, here's one thing I'd recommend doing if you're going to use a production LED kit:  Make sure the LED color matches your filter color pretty closely.  

For example, if you put a red LED behind a blue filter, you WILL NOT GET BLUE LIGHT.  You'll get almost nothing -- black.  This is because the red LED emits only red light, and the blue filter removes everything but blue, leaving NOTHING.  You would never do this in practice, of course, but the same idea applies in putting a red LED behind a red filter -- if the filter doesn't match the color of the source light, the output will drop off severely.

Regards,
Owen

VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"



M. P. Olans wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
>      For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I have
> a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
> advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
> saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said he had
> used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
> because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough about
> LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people from
> the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I figured I
> would pose the question here.
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt, AZ-D VeeP
> VIN 16816





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:15:42 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: I need a few pictures... please help?


I need 3 pictures from a stock DeLorean. I'm not able to find them anywhere on the web, so if someone could help me, I'd appreciate it. 

1) I need a shot of the passenger side knee pad from the sitting position (grey interior)

2) Shot of the driver side rocker panel and door sill from the front perspective of the door opening looking down and back on it.

3) Shot of a shifter panel from an 81 with the clock. A straight on shot with some of the climate control showing and with the shifter handle in 4th gear.

If someone has or can take these shots for me, I'd appreciate it. Please e-mail me privately so I can give you an e-mail address to send them to.

Thanks in advance,
---Evil Dan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:00:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: looking for stock tool kit/jack parts



Go "digging" in the front compartment where the jack is stored. You
are looking for a long, bent black handle that goes in the jack but is
not stored in the bag. The only things in the bag are the jack and the
lug wrench. I do not know what was intended for the other pockets if
anything. You can see a picture of the handle in the Parts Manual on
one of the last pages if memory serves me.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> I need a part or parts for the jack kit.  I've got the jack and a
lug nut wrench, but I'm missing whatever part was intended for
cranking the jack.  I see there are are a few unused sleeves in the
tool kit roll bag, which suggests there might be other tools I'm missing.
> 
> In any case, does anyone have just the crank that they'd be willing
to part with?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Owen
> 
> VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:03:06 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Diagnostic plug


Could this be used as a pickup for a cruise control?

Ed
10541

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:46 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Diagnostic plug


>
>
>
> You are correct:
>
> There is a pickup in the flywheel. I've seen it while I was replacing my
rear
> crankshaft seal. Many cars are missing the small metal plate that has the
wire
> and pickup sensor on it that goes to the diagnostic plug. I actually still
had
> mine.
>
> The possible purpose of this pickup other than measuring RPM's by means
> besides the ignition eludes me. I'm sure a vendor like Don Steger (who
> worked at the factory) could shed more light on this.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_M...> wrote:
> >
> > This begs the question: does the flywheel sensor actually output a
> > signal?  I assume it is a magnetic pickup of some kind, but I don't see
> > exactly what it is detecting on the flywheel. Is there supposed to be a
> > magnet at TDC or something that appears in other applications but is
> > missing from the DeLorean flywheel?  Or is it somehow watching the
> > bolts go by or something like that?
> >
> > Has anyone ever actually put a scope on the sensor output?
> >
> > --Pete Lucas
> >    VIN #06703
> >
> > On Oct 25, 2004, at 7:34 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The flywheel sensor is not used. The diagnostic plug is useful for
> > > checking system voltage and Lambda duty cycle so I would not remove
> > > the plug, just the sensor to the flywheel and the wire. Refer to
> > > M:03:01-:02
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:03:13 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Diagnostic plug


The sensor is to measure precise crankshaft position.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> You are correct: 
> 
> There is a pickup in the flywheel. I've seen it while I was replacing my rear 
> crankshaft seal. Many cars are missing the small metal plate that has the wire 
> and pickup sensor on it that goes to the diagnostic plug. I actually still had 
> mine. 
> 
> The possible purpose of this pickup other than measuring RPM's by means 
> besides the ignition eludes me. I'm sure a vendor like Don Steger (who 
> worked at the factory) could shed more light on this. 
> 
> Rich A. 
> #5335 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 19:17:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: cruise via Re: Diagnostic plug



Assuming its electrical output matches whatever the cruise control 
wants to see, you **might** get away with it on a manual transmission 
car. That's a big "if".

In an automatic, the normal slip of the converter would cause 
unstable speed control going up and down moderate slopes, and if you 
start climbing a hill and the transmission downshifts, be prepared to 
scrape your nose off the steering wheel as the cruise control slows 
the engine down - a lot. 

Overall, nice idea but probably not practical. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Could this be used as a pickup for a cruise control?
> 
> Ed
> 10541
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:46 AM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Diagnostic plug
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > You are correct:
> >
> > There is a pickup in the flywheel. I've seen it while I was 
replacing my
> rear
> > crankshaft seal. Many cars are missing the small metal plate that 
has the
> wire
> > and pickup sensor on it that goes to the diagnostic plug. I 
actually still








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 18:30:04 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Diagnostic plug


No, because speed is dependent on the gear the car is in.  The
flywheel has no knowledge of that.  A crusie control pickup needs 
to be after the gearbox.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> Could this be used as a pickup for a cruise control? 
> 
> Ed 
> 10541 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 19:11:01 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!



I fitted some LED's about three weeks ago to my centre 
console....they look brilliant and look like a new panel at night... 
crisp and bright .... no more warm ac panel for me either.... For 
the cost of VB's and the ease of fitting... go for it.......

Mike

#2001
Yorkshire, UK

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> I can't imagine LED's would look very good at night time behind 
the center console.  The very nature of LED's would make dispersal 
difficult, which is what illuminates the console in the first 
place.  I think LED's would make the console spotty instead of warm 
looking. LED's may be better for some things, but in other places 
regular bulbs are important for the right feel instead of a cold, 
digital look. Change my mind with some pictures.  
> 
> Andy








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:32:54 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!


The center console uses indirect lighting, the light bulbs fits into little 
chambers and is
dispersed throughout the plastic evenly.
These LED's I have found are made to emit the light from the sides, this 
effect is achieved
by drilling a cone shaped center into the lens of the LED and makes the 
light that
would normally be forward directional diverted 360 degrees in a circle 
around the lens
with some light still going straight out.
This light pours into the cavities of the plastic console piece and gives 
even illumination.
The effect looks pretty much like normal, except the color is much more blue 
because
that was the intended color scheme of the plastic, however when you use a 
dimly lit
incandescent bulb it appears as yellow, mixing with the blue you get green, 
or aqua.

The plastic is painted black, so there is no way to get any "spots".
The entire purpose of this conversion is to eliminate the heat that the 
other bulbs create,
and to use less power consumption from the battery when the car is on 
display.
I have a kit now that will replace almost every single one of your bulbs, 
except the headlights,
with LED bulbs. You could have your doors open and running lights on for 
display
without the need for a battery charger, and leave it like that all day.

LED's are the future of lighting.

- Videobob


>From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!
>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 10:56:43 -0400
>
>
>
>I can't imagine LED's would look very good at night time behind the center 
>console.  The very nature of LED's would make dispersal difficult, which is 
>what illuminates the console in the first place.  I think LED's would make 
>the console spotty instead of warm looking. LED's may be better for some 
>things, but in other places regular bulbs are important for the right feel 
>instead of a cold, digital look. Change my mind with some pictures.
>
>Andy
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 11:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: LED's for the center console


Hi Andy,
 
I was afraid of the same thing before I put the LEDs in 1063, but I was wrong.  The bulbs I posted about a few days ago have lenses on the end that widen the angle of the light produced.  I was highly satisfied.  I think these are the same Bob is using, but I certainly can't verify that.
 
Also, don't use the white or blue bulbs in the fan fail/lock doors/ rear def. sockets.  Use the red LEDs.  The white doesn't really look right.  The red ones are beautifly even, rich, and much more stock-appearing (admittedly, in my own opinion).  I used 3 red LEDs, and 4 "super white inverted lens", all BA7s from www.autolumination.com
 
I'll try to remember to post a picture of my setup for you to see.
 
Jake Kamphoefner


Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


I can't imagine LED's would look very good at night time behind the center console. The very nature of LED's would make dispersal difficult, which is what illuminates the console in the first place. I think LED's would make the console spotty instead of warm looking. LED's may be better for some things, but in other places regular bulbs are important for the right feel instead of a cold, digital look. Change my mind with some pictures. 

Andy




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 19:13:13 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Door LED's



I tried a white LED in my door lights they looked pale and off 
colour, you need the LEd to be self coloured to give out a rich 
colour through the lens :)

Mike
#2001

Yorkshire, UK

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> The colored Led's will give a lot more color and be plenty bright, 
I put 
> them in my D and love them, white will give you a washed out look, 
I tried 
> white led's (super bright) for tail lights and was dissapointed, 
regular 
> bulbs were much better.
> Lloyd
> #3502
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_c...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 9:20 PM
> Subject: [DML] Door LED's
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >     For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I 
have
> > a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What 
is the
> > advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain 
white?  I
> > saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said 
he had
> > used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
> > because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough 
about
> > LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people 
from
> > the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I 
figured I
> > would pose the question here.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Matt, AZ-D VeeP
> > VIN 16816
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 19:27:31 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: looking for stock tool kit/jack parts



Just a daft thing... why is there two jacks shown on the parts 
page??, mine is the one at the bottom with the ratchet 
handle ....seems strange why they would change it?


Mike
#2001

yorkshire, uk


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Go "digging" in the front compartment where the jack is stored. You
> are looking for a long, bent black handle that goes in the jack 
but is
> not stored in the bag. The only things in the bag are the jack and 
the
> lug wrench. I do not know what was intended for the other pockets 
if
> anything. You can see a picture of the handle in the Parts Manual 
on
> one of the last pages if memory serves me.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > I need a part or parts for the jack kit.  I've got the jack and a
> lug nut wrench, but I'm missing whatever part was intended for
> cranking the jack.  I see there are are a few unused sleeves in the
> tool kit roll bag, which suggests there might be other tools I'm 
missing.
> > 
> > In any case, does anyone have just the crank that they'd be 
willing
> to part with?
> > 
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Owen
> > 
> > VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 19:12:00 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: alternator ground?



How is the alternator grounded?  Please don't say through the 
alternator mounts.  :)

thanks,

Matt
#1604










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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:39:10 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Door LED's


Owen made a very good point here, that one gains some tens or 
hundreds of milliseconds in turn-on time using LEDs vs incandescant 
for brake lights, which can be the difference between being hit from 
behind and not. Are LEDs available for the Delorean brake lights?


>Disclaimer:  I have no knowledge of the specific LED kit in 
>question.  I don't have LED door lights on my DMC, and when I do, 
>I'll be building them myself from my own hand-picked ultra-bright 
>LED components.
>
>That said, red and amber are probably the smart choices.  Here comes 
>the reason why, in the form of more information than you probably 
>ever wanted to know about LEDs:
>
>LEDs work by emitting light directly; not by filtering the light. 
>For example, a red LED will actually emit red light.  You don't need 
>to (and in fact you cannot) filter the LED light to make it any 
>other color.  The brightest red LEDs actually have a transparent 
>lens that looks perfectly clear when off, but the light is still 
>red. 
>
>By contrast, incandescent bulbs emit an orange-white light, which is 
>filtered by a lens to make it red/amber/whatever.  For example, a 
>red lens removes the non-red parts of the light, leaving the red to 
>pass through.  This hints at part of the reason LEDs are more 
>efficient -- they emit the desired color directly, so you don't have 
>to filter them to make them red/amber, throwing away much of the 
>light in the process.
>
>LEDs in the red/orange area of the spectrum have been around for a 
>long time, and have seen a lot of development.  Advances have 
>gradually permitted shorter and shorter wavelengths, giving us 
>yellow, green and, recently, blue and violet.  The cooler colors 
>(green/blue/violet) are harder to make in high-output form.
>
>To make a light that looks white to humans, you need to mix the 
>three colors we can see (red, green, blue).  You actually need a 
>little extra blue, because our eyes are less sensitive to blue. 
>Blue LEDs are usually less powerful, too.  Thus, a "white" LED is 
>usually four LEDs in one package: red, green, blue, blue.
>
>In addition, to give the LEDs and even whiter appearance, almost all 
>"white" LEDs use organic phospors that "glow" and enhance the 
>output.  These break down over time, dimming the output (whereas the 
>LED elements themselves will last just about forever).
>
>So, to summarize, if you use an LED that's the correct color to 
>begin with, you're benefiting because red and orange LEDs are some 
>of the most bright and efficient LEDs around, and because they're 
>turning electricity directly into light that's the color you want 
>anyway, AND they'll probably last longer than your car without 
>breaking or fading.  If you use "white" LEDs, you're using hybrid 
>LED/phosphor technology that will fade over time, cost more to begin 
>with, and require more electrical power.  On top of that, you're 
>going to put it behind a red (or amber) lens and throw away all the 
>non-red (or amber) parts of the light anyway.
>
>Aside from being more efficient, LEDs have two other major 
>advantages:  1) they're solid state (i.e. no moving parts), which 
>makes them last almost forever, and 2) they turn on instantly, 
>whereas incandescent lights fade on over the course of approximately 
>0.1-0.2 seconds.  For this reason, I believe LED brake lights are 
>safer.  0.2 seconds might not sounds like a lot, but at 65MPH, 0.2 
>seconds is about 20 feet, which I believe could make a difference in 
>a rear-end collision situation in some cases.  The instant-on effect 
>is quite jarring and grabs the attention like nothing else.  If 
>you've ever been behind a vehicle with LED turn indicators or brake 
>lights, you've probably seen what I'm describing.
>
>If you've made it this far, here's one thing I'd recommend doing if 
>you're going to use a production LED kit:  Make sure the LED color 
>matches your filter color pretty closely. 
>
>For example, if you put a red LED behind a blue filter, you WILL NOT 
>GET BLUE LIGHT.  You'll get almost nothing -- black.  This is 
>because the red LED emits only red light, and the blue filter 
>removes everything but blue, leaving NOTHING.  You would never do 
>this in practice, of course, but the same idea applies in putting a 
>red LED behind a red filter -- if the filter doesn't match the color 
>of the source light, the output will drop off severely.
>
>Regards,
>Owen
>
>VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"
>
>
>
>M. P. Olans wrote:
>>
>>
>>  Hi all,
>>       For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I have
>>  a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
>>  advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
>>  saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said he had
>>  used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
>>  because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough about
>>  LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people from
>>  the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I figured I
>>  would pose the question here.
>>
>>  Thanks,
>>  Matt, AZ-D VeeP
>>  VIN 16816
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 18:33:05 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fixing the trip odometer knob/main odometer overrun



On a previous message about fuel economy one of you suggested I try 
resetting the trip odometer. Bad thing is, my trip odometer knob was 
busted off when I got the car. Can I fix this part, or do I have to 
get a completely new speedo? I'd hate to do that as they're not that 
cheap and plus I was going to have my faceplate recalibrated to the 
new one anyway. Also, what happens when the main odometer runs over 
100K? How does that work into legality with title and mileage and 
whatnot? It's only got 5 digits. I only have about 73K miles~ or so, 
but just curious. Thanks all!








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