From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2301
Date: Friday, October 29, 2004 7:38 PM


There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Cold Start plug electrical behavior?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

2. Re: Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>

3. Re: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 18:19:17 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?



I've recently turned my attention to undoing a PO cold-start hack. 
They wired a momentary button on a dummy switch back to a brand new
plug for the Cold Start valve.  When not pressed, there's no behavior,
when pressed, the little solenoid audibly clicks, and by holding this
down for about 10 seconds and then off and on for a few more, cold
start is acheived.

I've replaced the Thermo-Time switch, and the old plug for the
cold-start valve is still there, so I can even hook it back up, but it
doesn't work.  When monitoring the real cold start plug, I get an
immediate jump to at least 9V and an immediate fall back down to zero
at start-up (in less than 1 second).  When monitoring the PO installed
plug, I get 12V when the button is pressed and zero when released.

My thought is that the signal to cold start should go until the
thermo-time sensor heats up sufficiently...  If I'm right about this,
does anyone have ideas as to what else could be wrong?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 14:41:45 -0400
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights


Another good point about using the relay that Shannon Y (16056)
mentions (instead of the typical jumper wire), is that the resistor
built into the car that was originally used to dim the panel when the
headlights are on is still utilized, thus there is no need to use an
external resistor as some use to keep the panel from being hot and too
bright at night!

if you sort through the "D" electrical schematic, you will discover
that the original purpose for this particular relay is to switch in
the series resistor to dim the A/C panel when the headlights are on

in fact, you can actually use the original relay, just pull it out,
carefully break off the center tab, and reinstall - car looks OEM, no
jumper, or external resistor or, "RatShack" relay

see attached photos of original and modified relay

Cliff
3441 (DCS 2004 "Best Exhaust")
3307 (gonna need a LOT of work)
6147 (EFI conversion)


On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 08:56:08 -0700 (PDT), Shanon wrote:
>
>
>Shannon (16113),
>Even easier is to replace the AC panel relay with one that is missing the center
>spade. A couple bucks at RatShack.
>
>Shannon Y
>16056
>
>
>--------------------------------
>From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
>Subject: Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Sometime back someone wrote about rewiring the AC panel lights so 
>> that they come on only when the headlights are on. Can someone send 
>> me instructions?
>> 
>> Shannon
>> 16113
>
>
>Look here: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm
>
>Hope this helps.  ;-)
>
>Richard Rowe
>5853
>
>
>		
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>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 22:49:41 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights



Do you have an aftermarket stereo that was installed by someone other
than yourself?  Often the stereo is grounded directly rather than
through the harness, so such a wire could be from it.  When I was
installing mine last weekend, I also noticed that there's a bunch of
black ground wires attached to the right of the metal vent/stereo/AC
Knob panel part of the center console (leather part of center console
removal required to get there)  I ended up grounding my stereo with a
nut and bolt on the left side of that metal framework, opposite the
existing grounds.

With some slithering and twisting and a good light, you may be able to
get your head into the pedal area and trace that wire to its
connection without actually removing anything... depending on where it
connects to something else of course.

--Greg
#2894

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
<SNIP>

> Also, I have one loose black(?) wire coming from the dash hanging 
> down above the accelerator and brake pedals. It has an "eyelet" 
> ending so it looks like it's suppose to be tightened down with a nut 
> somewhere. I'm wondering if it is a ground wire of some sort. Any 
> idea what it might be?
> 
> Shannon
> VIN 16113








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