From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2302
Date: Saturday, October 30, 2004 6:56 PM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

2. Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights - Revisited
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

3. Re: The alternator
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

5. DeLorean Factory Lowering Kit
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

8. AW: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

9. AW: The alternator
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

10. Re: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. AW: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights - Revisited
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. LED "Kits" 50% Cheaper!
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

17. RE: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (Don't bother)
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

18. Re: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>

19. Re: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

20. Re: LED "Kits" 50% Cheaper!
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>

21. RE: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 17:17:48 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)


   Has anyone seen or have details about this 2004 BBC documentary?

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0409792/

Ken M.





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:25:21 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights - Revisited



My previous post regarding the door lock question was not clear. I 
want to wire the right side door so that when I'm on the outside with 
a key, I can unlock or lock both doors, not just the right door. When 
I unlock or lock the doors using the key on the driver's side, it 
does both doors. On the right side it does only the right door. My 
previous post led people to belive I was having the problem from 
inside the car. Everything works fine inside.

Shannon
VIN 16113









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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 03:46:45 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: The alternator



As Joe OBrien kindly pointed out to me, I am using a 150, not a
250-sorry about the mix up. Anyway, I have not yet spoken to the
vender about the alternator yet, and it is about a year old now so is
still under warrenty. I'll check and clean all the grounds tomorrow,
I've hit most of them over the last few months, but there are still
some that should be checked out. Thanks for the help! -Dani B. #5003
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Have you spoken to the vendor of the alternator? My impression is
that it's still 
> pretty new. Maybe it's still under warranty.
> 
> As has been stated many times here, grounds are critical. The
grounds 
> complete the circuit. If they are dirty/corroded/loose, then your
current flow 
> will be restricted. Think of it as pinching off a garden hose.
> 
> I suppose it's possible to damage the alternator by running it with
a poor 
> ground because of the resistance involved but I suspect the
alternator 
> squeals because the bearings are nearly gone. Since this is
obviously not a 
> stock altnernator you must have made some alterations in order to
make the 
> pulleys line up for the belt. If you're even a small bit off
(meaning you're 
> diagonal), the lateral stress will wipe out the shaft bearings
pretty quickly.
> 
> For my part, I can't understand all the hoopla about alternators.
Mine was 
> completely siezed when I bought my car. I had it rebuilt and fully
loaded, it only 
> dips down to 11/11.5 Vdc. Variaton within the species I guess.
> 
> Sorry I couldn't provide more positive info.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > As we all know, the delorean came with the 90 amp Motorolla after
the
> > Delco with its problems. Obviously, the 90 amp was sufficient
enough
> > to run the fans, A/C, lights and etc. When my alternator failed
me I
> > purchased the 250 AMP alternator, now compared to the 90 this
should
> > have PLENTY of amps to spare...or does it? I run my car with the
heat,
> > lights and everything cranked, but when I flick to my high beams
as if
> > I was flashing from low to hi-under acceleration I feel my engine
> > buck. With the more I turn on, the less acceleration I feel my
car can
> > do. Now also I'm having a start problem-I'll go to start my car
and it
> > will crank forever, and won't start even with spray. My suspect
is the
> > alternator. When I can finally turn the car over after a recharged
> > battery, the alternator squeels like hell and the gauge reading is
> > very low. The squeeling isn't the belt for sure, more like the
magnets
> > inside the alternator. Is it possible for the alternator to
somehow
> > have an electrical disturbance inside which will cause the
ignition
> > system to fail? Anyone else experience this? Dani B. #5003








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:28:39 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights



I don't have an aftermarket stero. Tomorrow I plan to crawl into the 
footwell to see how far I can trace the wire before it disappears 
into the dash abyss.

Shannon
VIN 16113

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Do you have an aftermarket stereo that was installed by someone 
other
> than yourself?  Often the stereo is grounded directly rather than
> through the harness, so such a wire could be from it.  When I was
> installing mine last weekend, I also noticed that there's a bunch of
> black ground wires attached to the right of the metal vent/stereo/AC
> Knob panel part of the center console (leather part of center 
console
> removal required to get there)  I ended up grounding my stereo with 
a
> nut and bolt on the left side of that metal framework, opposite the
> existing grounds.
> 
> With some slithering and twisting and a good light, you may be able 
to
> get your head into the pedal area and trace that wire to its
> connection without actually removing anything... depending on where 
it
> connects to something else of course.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894









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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 04:35:22 -0000
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean Factory Lowering Kit



Hey all,

Has anyone bought the Eibach lowering kit for their car? I was going 
to get it for my car, but want to see what others thought of it 
first. I think it gives the car a more appealing stance myself.

Thanks

Matt
VIN 2205








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 04:50:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux



Relative to a couple of threads this spring (Messages #41013, #43300
etc) Re: slam shifting, which CAN be done with the DeLorean Renault
transmission quite nicely (I lived that way for a week during my ill
fated clutch replacement. Shift points are 2300-2500 RPM):

Having just survived an adventuresome trip to New Jersey to buy a
truck with clutch hydraulics that failed in transit:

Be very careful slam shifting on hills. Transmission speed is
determined by how fast the drive wheels are rotating (you can not vary
it, but rather match engine speed to it). On relatively flat terrain
the vehicle will coast, making a leisurely and enjoyable slam shifting
experience. On hilly terrain however the drive wheels can slow down
very quickly. The steeper the grade, the shorter the slam shift
window. If you fail to match RPM's in that abbreviated time span you
may find yourself pointed uphill at a dead stop. The starter motor
then will be unable to move the vehicle against gravity to get going
again.

Of course stopping on a steep hill at a stop sign or stop light will
render the vehicle immobile thereafter.

(I was able to make an unpowered 3 point turn downhill and restart the
truck. Very dangerous and very unrecommended.)

Slam shifting is a survival technique best left for flat or gently
sloping terrain, especially if you are navigating in unfamiliar
territory. 

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 05:46:56 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)



So, my problem that I've been trying to troubleshoot for the past 
month or so has been that I blow fuse #5 consistently as soon as I 
turn the key.  Well, after narrowing down the electrical connectors 
underneath the ignition coil, I have found that only the top row, 
front (toward front of car) white connector causes the fuse to 
blow.  So I took my trusty Fluke multimeter to it, and I found that 
the red/black, green/black, and pink/black wires are connected, and 
also that that the green, blue/black, and light green/black wires 
are connected.  
By looking at the main wiring diagram for the car, it seems that all 
of these wires trace back to the #108 relay, that is, the "idle 
speed relay."  Where is this thing, and could it have melted causing 
my #5 fuse to constantly blow?  I know that fuse #5 is typically 
associated with the dash instrumentation, but I pulled the binnacle 
tonight and even with all of its electrical connections unplugged, 
it still blows the fuse when I turn the key.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 08:28:23 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?



Read the car's schematic.

In series to the cold start valve is the thermo time switch.
in series means - voltage drop !

it's function is to turn off the cold start valve over a certain
temperature or time.

Read the manual, I think it was pretty good described there.

Elvis & 6548



I've recently turned my attention to undoing a PO cold-start hack.
They wired a momentary button on a dummy switch back to a brand new
plug for the Cold Start valve.  When not pressed, there's no behavior,
when pressed, the little solenoid audibly clicks, and by holding this
down for about 10 seconds and then off and on for a few more, cold
start is acheived.

I've replaced the Thermo-Time switch, and the old plug for the
cold-start valve is still there, so I can even hook it back up, but it
doesn't work.  When monitoring the real cold start plug, I get an
immediate jump to at least 9V and an immediate fall back down to zero
at start-up (in less than 1 second).  When monitoring the PO installed
plug, I get 12V when the button is pressed and zero when released.

My thought is that the signal to cold start should go until the
thermo-time sensor heats up sufficiently...  If I'm right about this,
does anyone have ideas as to what else could be wrong?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 11:19:01 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: The alternator


Well there are no magnets in an alternator - at least no permanent ones.
Probably the bolts for the housing have loosened somehow and the different
parts are not lined up correctly any more. Anybody who has ever taken an
alternator apart can tell you thisis something that need to be watched
first. When you installed it - did the rotor spin freely ?

Sounds like your alternator doesn't work at all.

By the way - a friend of mine works for BOSCH and he used to work on a
project to increase the output of an alternator. Especially the big
Mercedes needed more power and instead of two alternators they wanted
to stay with one - due to costs. As far as I recall they couldn't get
more than 200A out of it without liquid cooling !

We talked about that about 2 years ago, but since then physics hasn't
changed very much. I would be very sceptical if somebody would want
to sell me an alternator with 250A. Especially one that fits the Delo
just by plug and play.

The biggest problem are the rectifier diodes which can't handle the
current without sufficient cooling. Even when replaced with active
rectifiers like MOSFETs or similar devices, there's still the problem
with the powerloss of the copper windings. If that's not enough - think
of the belt that has to transfer 3 times more power than with our 90A
alternator (of course only 3 times more when you make it to pull the
250A out of the altenator).

Altogether it sounds very unrealistic to me unless it is some kind of
irrelevant peak power that they printed on the label. Same as the
PMPO power they print on cheap speakers and amps.

Elvis & 6548



As we all know, the delorean came with the 90 amp Motorolla after the
Delco with its problems. Obviously, the 90 amp was sufficient enough
to run the fans, A/C, lights and etc. When my alternator failed me I
purchased the 250 AMP alternator, now compared to the 90 this should
have PLENTY of amps to spare...or does it? I run my car with the heat,
lights and everything cranked, but when I flick to my high beams as if
I was flashing from low to hi-under acceleration I feel my engine
buck. With the more I turn on, the less acceleration I feel my car can
do. Now also I'm having a start problem-I'll go to start my car and it
will crank forever, and won't start even with spray. My suspect is the
alternator. When I can finally turn the car over after a recharged
battery, the alternator squeels like hell and the gauge reading is
very low. The squeeling isn't the belt for sure, more like the magnets
inside the alternator. Is it possible for the alternator to somehow
have an electrical disturbance inside which will cause the ignition
system to fail? Anyone else experience this? Dani B. #5003








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links












________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:24:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?


gzapf wrote:

>My thought is that the signal to cold start should go until the
>thermo-time sensor heats up sufficiently...  If I'm right about this,
>does anyone have ideas as to what else could be wrong?
>
Correct, but remember that the thermotime switch works on the _ground_ 
side of the circuit. The 12v feed comes directly off the starter 
solenoid and the drop to 9v might suggest a broken wire or simply a poor 
battery? Does the cold start valve spray when 12v is applied across it, 
and not when you're cranking?

Martin
#1458
#4426






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 15:47:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)




OEM does not connect fuse 5 to "relay" 108. If you have the dash 
services disconnected there should be only two connections left to 
trace  the lambda counter and the cooling fan temp switch 
(otterstat). The connected diodes from the fan temp switch that 
protect/direct current for the AC clutch might be defective. The 
lambda counter internals only direct a path to the lambda light bulb 
in the dash. I'm guessing you have a problem with the fan temp 
switch path or diodes. These diodes should be located toward the 
right side of the fuse box looking from the top facing the rear of 
the car.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> So, my problem that I've been trying to troubleshoot for the past 
> month or so has been that I blow fuse #5 consistently as soon as I 
> turn the key.  Well, after narrowing down the electrical 
connectors 
> underneath the ignition coil, I have found that only the top row, 
> front (toward front of car) white connector causes the fuse to 
> blow.  So I took my trusty Fluke multimeter to it, and I found 
that 
> the red/black, green/black, and pink/black wires are connected, 
and 
> also that that the green, blue/black, and light green/black wires 
> are connected.  
> By looking at the main wiring diagram for the car, it seems that 
all 
> of these wires trace back to the #108 relay, that is, the "idle 
> speed relay."  Where is this thing, and could it have melted 
causing 
> my #5 fuse to constantly blow?  I know that fuse #5 is typically 
> associated with the dash instrumentation, but I pulled the 
binnacle 
> tonight and even with all of its electrical connections unplugged, 
> it still blows the fuse when I turn the key.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 14:52:12 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)



"Idle speed relay" is a mis-nomer - its the Idle Speed Controller 
that is located behind the driver seat under the wood cover. Black 
box with two plugs. Unplug it and see if the fuse still blows. Car 
will run (sort of ) without it.

We've been talking about it on the list for a few weeks, but this 
woiuld be the first one Ive seen that causes fuses to blow. Normally 
they just die and the car idles wrong.

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> So, my problem that I've been trying to troubleshoot for the past 
> month or so has been that I blow fuse #5 consistently as soon as I 
> turn the key.  Well, after narrowing down the electrical connectors 
> underneath the ignition coil, I have found that only the top row, 
> front (toward front of car) white connector causes the fuse to 
> blow.  So I took my trusty Fluke multimeter to it, and I found that 
> the red/black, green/black, and pink/black wires are connected, and 
> also that that the green, blue/black, and light green/black wires 
> are connected.  
> By looking at the main wiring diagram for the car, it seems that 
all 
> of these wires trace back to the #108 relay, that is, the "idle 
> speed relay."  Where is this thing, and could it have melted 
causing 
> my #5 fuse to constantly blow?  I know that fuse #5 is typically 
> associated with the dash instrumentation, but I pulled the binnacle 
> tonight and even with all of its electrical connections unplugged, 
> it still blows the fuse when I turn the key.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 17:07:07 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Wiring for Door Locks and Headlights - Revisited



No, your door lock system doesn't work correctly.
with the new description it sounds as you're having a problem
with the switch inside the door or the wiring / connectors.

>From each side both doors/locks always have to do the same.

Elvis


My previous post regarding the door lock question was not clear. I 
want to wire the right side door so that when I'm on the outside with 
a key, I can unlock or lock both doors, not just the right door. When 
I unlock or lock the doors using the key on the driver's side, it 
does both doors. On the right side it does only the right door. My 
previous post led people to belive I was having the problem from 
inside the car. Everything works fine inside.

Shannon
VIN 16113







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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 08:31:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: LED "Kits" 50% Cheaper!


Buy-low, sell-high or buy, markup, resell is nothing
new, but the internet makes is so easy to find a
product's source that it's just dumb to pay someone
else double for something because they found it first.
 Case-in-point these LED "kits".  If you purchase the
bulbs yourself, from the source, you can get them for
half of what they're being offered for elsewhere.  The
source is www.superbrightleds.com and I've setup a
page that lists out all the components you need for
each "kit" along with links to the appropriate page on
superbrightleds' site.  The list is located at: 
www.projectdelorean.com/leds.html

LED Door Light Conversion Kit - $11.94
LED Cluster Kit - $17.76
LED Center Console Kit - $10.43
LED Festoon Bulb (Dome Light) - $4.49
LED Side Marker Kit - $7.56

(Note, these do not include shipping)

If you can follow the list and select the same items
and quantities from the superbrightleds site, you can
get your kits for about half of what they're being
offered for elsewhere.

FYI, I have absolutely no affiliation with
www.superbrightleds.com and I don't have a problem
with people developing and selling products for our
cars, but a 50% markup for a 20 second search on
google and selecting a couple of light bulbs is just
rediculous.  (Especially when it's imposed on such a
small and supposedly close-knit group as the Delorean
community.) 

Feel free to email me if you have any questions,

=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 16:17:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux



Slam-shifting (aka speed-shifting) is changing gears without using the
clutch. Many books about racing touch on this subject. It is not for
the faint-of-heart. You cannot drive in traffic and you put yourself
and the people around you in jepordy. You put tremendous stresses on
the whole drivetrain, the transmission in particular. You can strip
gears, wreck synchros, bend or crack the shift linkage and explode the
gearcase. If anyone was to try this they should try to practice first
and not on a public road. A missed shift or a WRONG shift can cause an
accident. Now that you have all the disclaimers it is a technique that
can be useful in certain SPECIAL situations. I would not let someone
try it on MY car though! At least if I cared about it. Try it on a
beater first. It is like driving on a hiway without brakes. It can be
done right up until that accident that you can expect to have! Let me
know what road you will be driving on and when so I can know to stay away.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Relative to a couple of threads this spring (Messages #41013, #43300
> etc) Re: slam shifting, which CAN be done with the DeLorean Renault
> transmission quite nicely (I lived that way for a week during my ill
> fated clutch replacement. Shift points are 2300-2500 RPM):
> 
> Having just survived an adventuresome trip to New Jersey to buy a
> truck with clutch hydraulics that failed in transit:
> 
> Be very careful slam shifting on hills. Transmission speed is
> determined by how fast the drive wheels are rotating (you can not vary
> it, but rather match engine speed to it). On relatively flat terrain
> the vehicle will coast, making a leisurely and enjoyable slam shifting
> experience. On hilly terrain however the drive wheels can slow down
> very quickly. The steeper the grade, the shorter the slam shift
> window. If you fail to match RPM's in that abbreviated time span you
> may find yourself pointed uphill at a dead stop. The starter motor
> then will be unable to move the vehicle against gravity to get going
> again.
> 
> Of course stopping on a steep hill at a stop sign or stop light will
> render the vehicle immobile thereafter.
> 
> (I was able to make an unpowered 3 point turn downhill and restart the
> truck. Very dangerous and very unrecommended.)
> 
> Slam shifting is a survival technique best left for flat or gently
> sloping terrain, especially if you are navigating in unfamiliar
> territory. 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 17:05:51 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Where is the "idle speed relay?" (#108 on wiring diagram)



Found the short.  My problem was I had the 2 large white connectors 
under the ignition coil cover REVERSED!  Should have looked at the 
pins that were 'present' in the connector.  This is what was causing 
fuse #5 to blow.

Matt
#1604




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> "Idle speed relay" is a mis-nomer - its the Idle Speed Controller 
> that is located behind the driver seat under the wood cover. Black 
> box with two plugs. Unplug it and see if the fuse still blows. Car 
> will run (sort of ) without it.
> 
> We've been talking about it on the list for a few weeks, but this 
> woiuld be the first one Ive seen that causes fuses to blow. 
Normally 
> they just die and the car idles wrong.
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > So, my problem that I've been trying to troubleshoot for the 
past 
> > month or so has been that I blow fuse #5 consistently as soon as 
I 
> > turn the key.  Well, after narrowing down the electrical 
connectors 
> > underneath the ignition coil, I have found that only the top 
row, 
> > front (toward front of car) white connector causes the fuse to 
> > blow.  So I took my trusty Fluke multimeter to it, and I found 
that 
> > the red/black, green/black, and pink/black wires are connected, 
and 
> > also that that the green, blue/black, and light green/black 
wires 
> > are connected.  
> > By looking at the main wiring diagram for the car, it seems that 
> all 
> > of these wires trace back to the #108 relay, that is, the "idle 
> > speed relay."  Where is this thing, and could it have melted 
> causing 
> > my #5 fuse to constantly blow?  I know that fuse #5 is typically 
> > associated with the dash instrumentation, but I pulled the 
binnacle 
> > tonight and even with all of its electrical connections 
unplugged, 
> > it still blows the fuse when I turn the key.  
> > 
> > thanks,
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604








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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:57:30 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (Don't bother)


You can't see the movie on this site, its just a review page and you need to
be a member. Don't bother.

Dave Sontos

-----Original Message-----
From: Montgomery, Ken [mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu] 
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 8:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)

   Has anyone seen or have details about this 2004 BBC documentary?

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0409792/

Ken M.







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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 12:55:35 -0500
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)


I think someone on the list emailed a link to this a couple of months ago. 
It came out in May of this year on BBC.
Here's the link again.

http://tinyurl.com/6e38b


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 7:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)


>
>
>   Has anyone seen or have details about this 2004 BBC documentary?
>
> http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0409792/
>
> Ken M.
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 







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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:16:06 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)


Yes i have seen it and it was a very good documentary on the car, it 
was far better than the History Channels "Great Blunders In History, 
The DeLorean".


Mark V



On Friday, October 29, 2004, at 07:17  PM, Montgomery, Ken wrote:

>
>
>    Has anyone seen or have details about this 2004 BBC documentary?
>
> http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0409792/
>
> Ken M.






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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 19:50:27 -0000
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: LED "Kits" 50% Cheaper!



Steve,

You are really a great guy for taking the time to put all of the 
information together.  I have had a Delorean for a number of years 
and, while I do not post to the board very often, I am appreciative 
of your efforts.

This board should be more concerned with the opportunity to help each 
other than with chances to make individual profit.  Keep up the good 
work.

Thanks,

Scot
64552 








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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:57:10 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)


I have seen this and it is very good.
A "friend" from over seas who worked on the production sent me a direct dub 
of the master.
It is absolutely the BEST documentery on DeLorean ever made.
However, if you are one of the people who feel like John Z can do no worng,
and that he was framed every step of the way then you will be very angry by 
the end
of this one hour show.
They don't really bash him, but they talk to real people who were involved,
real gvernment officials, the people who actually signed the checks.
This is not just opinions from "experts", but tales of dealings with John 
and people
in the business.
Acordding to them, John is an international fugitive who would be arrested 
on site
if he ever went back to the UK.
There was some great information about the cars be the people who built 
them.
It is a fantastic show no matter what you opinion of John is, but you will 
definately get
something out of it.
- Videobob


>From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Car Crash: The Delorean Story (2004) (TV)
>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 17:17:48 -0700
>
>
>
>    Has anyone seen or have details about this 2004 BBC documentary?
>
>http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0409792/
>
>Ken M.
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 18:51:22 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Cold Start plug electrical behavior?



I haven't taken off the valve to check the spray, but the solenoid
does click whenever I hit the button, including when the car is off
and not cranking.  I have a new battery, but the wiring may have been
adulterated by the PO.

Is the 12v signal to the cold start valve supposed to last a while, or
just during cranking?

Thanks,
--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Correct, but remember that the thermotime switch works on the _ground_ 
> side of the circuit. The 12v feed comes directly off the starter 
> solenoid and the drop to 9v might suggest a broken wire or simply a
poor 
> battery? Does the cold start valve spray when 12v is applied across it, 
> and not when you're cranking?
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> #4426








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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