From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2304
Date: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:49 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Question for "Dummies" :)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Dummy switch uses
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

3. Re: DeLorean Factory Lowering Kit
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

4. Dummy Switches
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Injectors dripping
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Wouldn't Start after sitting a week
From: jason drew <Ja2000on_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Low-vin door problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Oil Filters
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

11. Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

12. Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Door strut lower bolt
From: "ramblinmike68kd" <ramblinmike68kd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Low-vin door problem
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

17. Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Okay, It Was A Bad Idea....
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

20. DeLorean Community
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

21. Re: Low-vin door problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Faulty gauges again..
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Front wheel caster/camber
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. Re: DeLorean Community
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 15:56:22 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Question for "Dummies" :)


I have seen several people wire car audio amps this way, although I don't 
know why
you would want to turn your amp off in the first place.

These would be perfect for fog lamps, or undercar neon lighting, or BTTF 
related stuff
like a Flux Capacitor.
I have rearranged my switches because my arm kept rolling the window up!

When I installed my switches, I pre-wired them and ran the wires to the back 
section and left them there for "future" use.... when my time machine is 
finished they will operate lights or whatever....
- Videobob

>From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Question for "Dummies" :)
>Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:36:48 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Hi there, everyone,
>Just out of curiosity, has anyone done anything special with the
>DeLorean dummy switches beside the window controls? Any kind of
>special add-ons or ideas there? I'm pretty sure the dealer option on
>my mom's Nissan Maxima had seat warmer controls on her own.
>Personally, I always thought it wouldd be cool to put radio/amp
>controls there or possibly have cruise control even.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 14:13:23 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Dummy switch uses


John Rydholm wrote:
> Hi there, everyone,
> Just out of curiosity, has anyone done anything special with the 
> DeLorean dummy switches beside the window controls?

I put a nice black button in one of them, and it operates my garage door opener.  There's plenty of room under the console to stash the actual garage door remote.  Happy to share the details, if anyone's interested.

-Owen
VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 20:03:43 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Factory Lowering Kit



Hey Matt...

I just got through installing the Houston/Eibach springs AND 
struts.  I am putting together a full write up on the installation, 
and performance of this new package (Duck! Shameless promotion!)for 
Gullwing Mag.

I will have 5 members of my local club, all with various suspension 
packages on their own cars, evauate and comment on the new 
suspension package from Houston.

I'll post a teaser picture in the photos section for ya.

Thanks!
Dave Jacobs


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Has anyone bought the Eibach lowering kit for their car? I was 
going 
> to get it for my car, but want to see what others thought of it 
> first. I think it gives the car a more appealing stance myself.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Matt
> VIN 2205








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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 18:37:41 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Dummy Switches


 
 
John,
 
If your not a purist and don't mind making your D a little different from  
the rest, then the uses for the Dummy Switches are only limited by your  
imagination.
 
Look in the files section under _Dummy  Switch Uses_ 
(http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Dummy%20Switch%20Uses/)  for some examples.
 
D & 6530


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:36:48 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Question for "Dummies" :)



Hi there, everyone,
Just out of curiosity, has anyone  done anything special with the 
DeLorean dummy switches beside the window  controls? Any kind of 
special add-ons or ideas there? I'm pretty sure the  dealer option on 
my mom's Nissan Maxima had seat warmer controls on her  own. 
Personally, I always thought it would be cool to put radio/amp  
controls there or possibly have cruise control  even.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 00:31:49 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE



I have Houston struts and love them, so I have no reason to buy Ebay 
struts.  That said, I still peruse all DeLorean related listings on 
Ebay all the time, and have seen that seller's strut auctions many 
times.  It immediately struck a bad chord with me the first time I 
read their description which says the door struts retail for $49.95 
each.  We all know that's not true, so the seller is already lying in 
their auction.  I wouldn't even consider buying from them based 
solely on that lie.

-Derek L
VIN 5302



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> Fellow DMC Owners BEWARE!!
>  
> I purchased struts from http://stores.ebay.com/DYBusiness-Shop off 
e-bay.  The sellers Deric & Levin Yu claimed they were original 
DeLorean struts and when I recieved them, although they had the DMC 
logo on them, only opened 3/4 of the way.  Come to find out, they are 
some how associated with www.nvoconcepts.com.  BEWARE OF THEM TOO!!  
Upon calling and e-mailing the sellers, they claimed that not opening 
all the way was typical.  All DMC owners know this is not true!!  
They agreed to exchange them and I sent them back.  It is three 
months later and I still do not have the struts nor money.  They do 
not return e-mails or calls.  I have contacted Ebay and the local 
authorities but do not know what will happen as I am in New England 
and they are in CA.
>  
> The point is...STICK TOGETHER and only buy from known DMC owners 
and/or resellers like PJ Grady, DeLorean One, Specialty Auto, DMC 
Houston, NWParts, etc.
>  
> Sad "scamed" DMC Owner!!  :(
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 01:33:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Injectors dripping



The injectors shouldn't drip. The "best" way to check the injectors is
in a tester so you can see the spray pattern, check the opening and
holding presures, and listen if it "sings". The "Pull them out and
watch them" method is a very crude measure of the pattern and is
potentailly dangerous with the atomized, flammable fuel spraying out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I tried testing my #3 cylinder injector by placing it into a bottle 
> and cranking the engine.  The injector sprayed fine.  As soon as I 
> removed the key from the ignition, the injector dripped 3 or 4 
> times.  Is this OK, or can they be fixed?
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 17:16:17 -0800 (PST)
From: jason drew <Ja2000on_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wouldn't Start after sitting a week


Hey, 
Sorry im a newbie, but whats the resistor and where is it?
Thanks
Jason

erikgeerdink <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:



Hello,
Just wanted to send out a reminder and an FYI for people who may run 
into this. My Delorean sat for a few weeks due to rain and no 
time. Yesterday was a great day so I went to start her up. It 
would turn over, she was getting gas, the relays were clicking, the 
coil was good. Turned out to be the resitor. I took all the 
connections off, scuffed up the ends a bit, shot some contact 
cleaner on it and put it back together. She started up fine.

Hope this helps someone out someday.

Erik Geerdink
04512








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links








		
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Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 01:40:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux



The fun begins when you go for a gear and you miss it or you get in
the wrong, lower one. If you happen to get in a gear that is too low
you can overspeed the trans, lock up the rear wheels, and/or go for a
spin. If you force it into a gear you can crack the gearcase. Again,
if you know what you are doing and it is YOUR CAR you can do whatever
you want. I just think if you are giving advice on this method of
shifting you need to warn about the dangers. This is an extreme
driving technique and most people would not do it correctly. Same sort
of advice on snapping the emergency brake and whipping the steering
wheel to do a spin. It is called a "Bootlegger's turn" and can be done
but again I would not recomend doing it on a public road.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Sussex Avenue, between Morristown and Dover. I was promised a truck
> that could tow an AMC (purchased both as a package deal). Truck is
> actually in very good condition, save for what I suspect is a piston
> tangled up in the internal spring of the clutch master cylinder --
> pedal is dead to the floor and fluid can not pass from the reservior
> to the slave bleeder screw. Previous owner has been mashing ever
> living mess out of the thing to trigger the starter safety switch









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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 01:49:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Low-vin door problem



Sounds like 2 problems. You may have the torsion bar a spine or 2 too
tight. You should be able to close from inside. The other thing to
check is that the door should not hit on the head of either striker
(anchor) pin. If you see the head is shiny remove a washer or 2 so it
doesn't hit the head of the pin. If when you close the door and you
hit the head of the anchor pin, that forces the door foward (or back
depending on which is hitting). If it is hitting BOTH pins on the head
that can cause the door to jam. Make sure that the anchor pin goes
right up the center of the guide into the lock. The door moves in an
arc so it is a little tricky to adjust. Some trial-and-error will get
it. Do all of your adjustments on level ground. I think on the real
low vin cars they didn't all come with the stainless guides. You may
want to add them if you don't have them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi
> I have a problem with the driver door on my low-vin (#706). Every 
> time outside temperature drops under 15C ( 60F), it seems like the 
> stainless moves slightly and the door twists so that I have an ajar 
> at the rear : with front latch locked properly, I can't lock the 
> rear one, even after adjusting the striker pin. The door acts like a 
> spring and it's hard to push it in place from the outside. No way of 
> closing it completely from inside; the rear latch only locks at the 
> first security....
> I live in France and hope to explain the problem correctly ;-)
> Any suggest to correct this ?
> ps: see pics of #706 in the photo section
> thanks !!
> Raphael, France








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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 16:06:56 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Oil Filters


http://tinyurl.com/3scbk

Concourse original blue Purflux filters on ebay.

I am not selling these but i know they have value for concourse cars.

Mark V

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 01:13:34 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?



My "timing gear cover" is leaking right below the crankshaft pulley. 
Seems like I would need a new gasket.  Anyone done this job?  The
manual doesn't seem very clear about it, but it would seem I would
have to remove the a/c compressor, warm-up regulator, valve covers,
idle pulley assembly, and the crankshaft pulley to get this thing off.
 Not really looking forward to it.  It started leaking after I
replaced the lower crankcase (which it bolts into).  

Also, now that I've been trying to start my car since
pulling/reinstalling the engine, it turns over, I have fuel injectors
spraying, spark plugs sparking, but no starting.  It seems like the
engine is really flooded.  Occasionally when trying to start it, I
hear this huge POP sound like a gunshot!  Is this a result of flooding
the engine or is it something else?  It happens most often when I pull
up the inertia switch to turn off the fuel pump, trying to blow out
the excess fuel.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604 - only VIN to have its engine removed during an oxygen sensor
replacement










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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 02:11:03 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?



Sounds like you're crankshaft seal is no good, not the cover gasket.
For the backfiring, this sounds like you've reinstalled the
distributor wrong-what I mean it is sparking on the upstroke? or
downstroke? I forget which one but its the wrong stroke. This will
cause the engine not to start and backfire. -Dani B. #5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 05:15:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Slam/RPM Shifting, Part Deux



Re-read the message that started this thread -- I was adding cautions
to earlier threads. REDUCED situations in which slam shifting is
advisable (hilly & unfamiliar territory). 

Note that I was able to return the truck to point of origin (wasn't
willing to risk getting stuck again) without paying for a tow. Also
extricated it from a dangerous situation in the middle of the road --
are no shoulders in that part of NJ.

Slam shifting is radically different from "bootlegger's turning" BTW.
That sounds like a high speed manuever for aggressively driving a car
in proper condition. Slam shifting is basically a judicious survival
technique to limp a sick car home (isn't practical to regularly engage
gears that way, though I do disengage them with a simple flick of the
shift lever all the time, as the vehicle slows to a stop).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The fun begins when you go for a gear and you miss it or you get in
> the wrong, lower one. If you happen to get in a gear that is too low
> you can overspeed the trans, lock up the rear wheels, and/or go for a
> spin. If you force it into a gear you can crack the gearcase. Again,
> if you know what you are doing and it is YOUR CAR you can do whatever
> you want. I just think if you are giving advice on this method of
> shifting you need to warn about the dangers. This is an extreme
> driving technique and most people would not do it correctly. Same sort
> of advice on snapping the emergency brake and whipping the steering
> wheel to do a spin. It is called a "Bootlegger's turn" and can be done
> but again I would not recomend doing it on a public road.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 03:54:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?



Before you go tearing off the timing gear cover make sure that it is
not the oil pressure sender on the left rear. When it leaks it can
fool you into thinking the pan gasket, timing cover, etc is leaking.
The oil catches on the rail and runs all around the motor finally
dripping off the rear. It might also be the seal on the pully and it
can be changed without removing the cover but that is not as common as
the sender unit.
The starting problem (I am guessing here)sounds like something is way
off in your timing like the distributer is not right, the firing order
is off, or maybe you messed with the camshaft timing? Recheck your
work and make sure the distributer is set up right and the firing
order is correct. You are correct in looking for fuel and spark but
you have to have the spark at the right time! A rough way to check if
you messed up with the camshafts is a compression check with your
finger over #1 cylinder while watching the timing mark. You should get
some pressure as it comes up to TDC. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> My "timing gear cover" is leaking right below the crankshaft pulley. 
> Seems like I would need a new gasket.  Anyone done this job?  The
> manual doesn't seem very clear about it, but it would seem I would
> have to remove the a/c compressor, warm-up regulator, valve covers,
> idle pulley assembly, and the crankshaft pulley to get this thing off.
>  Not really looking forward to it.  It started leaking after I
> replaced the lower crankcase (which it bolts into).  
> 
> Also, now that I've been trying to start my car since
> pulling/reinstalling the engine, it turns over, I have fuel injectors
> spraying, spark plugs sparking, but no starting.  It seems like the
> engine is really flooded.  Occasionally when trying to start it, I
> hear this huge POP sound like a gunshot!  Is this a result of flooding
> the engine or is it something else?  It happens most often when I pull
> up the inertia switch to turn off the fuel pump, trying to blow out
> the excess fuel.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604 - only VIN to have its engine removed during an oxygen sensor
> replacement








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 05:50:04 -0000
From: "ramblinmike68kd" <ramblinmike68kd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door strut lower bolt



I had a similiar problem with my car (#910).  The lower door strut
brackets were riveted and epoxied to the fiberglass.  I was able to
order a set of replacement inner brackets from PJGrady.  I measured
where the origial holes were in a later car with the regular
'production' brackets.  I was able to use a dremel from inside the car
to cut holes in the fiberglass and install the 'factory' brackets. 
The guys at Gradys were a big help.  I was also able to get a
measurement for the holes from a local owner.  If you need the
measurements for the holes email me at ramblinmike_at_dml_hotmail.com.  Hope
this helps.
Mike VIN #910

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi
> I discovered that the lower bolts of the door struts were loose, 
> cause their mountings were broken in the fiberglass. I removed the T-
> panel...
> Anyone had this problem ? how you would cure it ?. I guess I have to 
> unbolt the quarter panels to access these mountings, it seems like 
> some kind of reinforcing plate is glued to the fiberglass.
> Thanks for your help
> Raphael








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 14:23:34 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: Low-vin door problem



Thanks for you reply David
I adjusted the strikers pins and they don't hit the door, they lock 
fine at 60F and above. I even tried to close the door without the 
seal and strikers ; when the weather is cold, the rear of the door 
shows a 1-2cms ajar though the front is at bottom...( the door is no 
more parallel to the body )The door can't travel any more so I have 
to push firmly from outside to lock it all the way. When you unlock 
the door while holding it,you can see the rear "pop" slightly.
Sounds strange lol 

regards
Raphael

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Sounds like 2 problems. You may have the torsion bar a spine or 2 
too
> tight. You should be able to close from inside. The other thing to
> check is that the door should not hit on the head of either striker
> (anchor) pin. If you see the head is shiny remove a washer or 2 so 
it
> doesn't hit the head of the pin. If when you close the door and you
> hit the head of the anchor pin, that forces the door foward (or 
back
> depending on which is hitting). If it is hitting BOTH pins on the 
head
> that can cause the door to jam. Make sure that the anchor pin goes
> right up the center of the guide into the lock. The door moves in 
an
> arc so it is a little tricky to adjust. Some trial-and-error will 
get
> it. Do all of your adjustments on level ground. I think on the real
> low vin cars they didn't all come with the stainless guides. You 
may
> want to add them if you don't have them.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi
> > I have a problem with the driver door on my low-vin (#706). 
Every 
> > time outside temperature drops under 15C ( 60F), it seems like 
the 
> > stainless moves slightly and the door twists so that I have an 
ajar 
> > at the rear : with front latch locked properly, I can't lock the 
> > rear one, even after adjusting the striker pin. The door acts 
like a 
> > spring and it's hard to push it in place from the outside. No 
way of 
> > closing it completely from inside; the rear latch only locks at 
the 
> > first security....
> > I live in France and hope to explain the problem correctly ;-)
> > Any suggest to correct this ?
> > ps: see pics of #706 in the photo section
> > thanks !!
> > Raphael, France








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 16:04:17 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Timing Gear Cover Leaking...Backfiring?



An alternate way of seeing if the #1 cylinder is at TDC is by sticking
a long flexable wire down to the piston and turning the crank until
you see from the wire that the piston is at TDC (That is, all the way
at the top of the cylinder). If you pull the next plug in the firing
order and use the wire there after #1 TDC and the next cylinder goes
to TDC, then you have the correct stroke. If you do it and the next
cylinder isn't at the top then its the wrong stroke. You've got to go
by the timing marks, if you line the pully up with the mark and its
the incorrect stroke- crank the engine around until it hits the marks
again and try. Once it is at TDC you set up your distributor. -Dani B.
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Before you go tearing off the timing gear cover make sure that it is
> not the oil pressure sender on the left rear. When it leaks it can
> fool you into thinking the pan gasket, timing cover, etc is leaking.
> The oil catches on the rail and runs all around the motor finally
> dripping off the rear. It might also be the seal on the pully and it
> can be changed without removing the cover but that is not as common as
> the sender unit.
> The starting problem (I am guessing here)sounds like something is way
> off in your timing like the distributer is not right, the firing order
> is off, or maybe you messed with the camshaft timing? Recheck your
> work and make sure the distributer is set up right and the firing
> order is correct. You are correct in looking for fuel and spark but
> you have to have the spark at the right time! A rough way to check if
> you messed up with the camshafts is a compression check with your
> finger over #1 cylinder while watching the timing mark. You should get
> some pressure as it comes up to TDC. 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > My "timing gear cover" is leaking right below the crankshaft pulley. 
> > Seems like I would need a new gasket.  Anyone done this job?  The
> > manual doesn't seem very clear about it, but it would seem I would
> > have to remove the a/c compressor, warm-up regulator, valve covers,
> > idle pulley assembly, and the crankshaft pulley to get this thing off.
> >  Not really looking forward to it.  It started leaking after I
> > replaced the lower crankcase (which it bolts into).  
> > 
> > Also, now that I've been trying to start my car since
> > pulling/reinstalling the engine, it turns over, I have fuel injectors
> > spraying, spark plugs sparking, but no starting.  It seems like the
> > engine is really flooded.  Occasionally when trying to start it, I
> > hear this huge POP sound like a gunshot!  Is this a result of flooding
> > the engine or is it something else?  It happens most often when I pull
> > up the inertia switch to turn off the fuel pump, trying to blow out
> > the excess fuel.  
> > 
> > thanks,
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604 - only VIN to have its engine removed during an oxygen sensor
> > replacement








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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 16:09:48 -0000
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Okay, It Was A Bad Idea....



I posted earlier about driving my Delorean in the Greenwich Village 
Halloween Parade.  While the parade was a hoot and we all had a good 
time, driving the car was a disaster.

I used an inverter to hook up my stereo to the original cigarette 
lighter.  There wasn't enough time to attach the replacement--I 
needed to look good myself first :)  Anyway, we drove down to the 
parade and turned on the stereo.  It wasn't loud, but it was 
working.  Now, 2 hours go by and we are still on line to enter the 
parade, with the car running but not moving and all the lights and 
music going.  

We finally get started and drive about 5 or so blocks (you'd be 
amazed how long that took with me trying not to hit marchers).  Then, 
I noticed the volts dropping.  Still, not a crisis.  I let my friends 
take turns driving the car.  Since I don't normally let anyone but me 
drive, they knew this would be their only chance.  However, the last 
person called out to me, "Uh, Lauren, I think we have a problem.  The 
car sounds weird."

I jumped into the driver seat, but by then it was too late.  It would 
not turn over.  It was barely doing anything.  I was panicked.  We 
were in the middle of Sixth Avenue with approximately 5,000 parade 
marchers behind us growing impatient.  At first we played it off as 
a "photo shoot", but then we had to give up and push.  We put the car 
in neutral and just shoved it along.  So embarrassing!  

I was half expecting to see myself on the cover of some newspaper 
today..."Girl Dressed as Marilyn Monroe Stalls In Village Parade, 
Causes 10 Block Back Up".  

Ah well, at least we made it to the end (20 blocks of pushing!) and 
had a good time.  And, a kind guy driving around a car full of 
werewolves was able to give me a jump :)  
  








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 16:58:30 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE



Interesting that they have the DMC logo on them. We've also contacted
Ebay as this isn't the first we've heard of them. Anyone else who has
bought these (with or without the DMC logo) and feels like you got
taken, please contact me via email at james(at)delorean.com - thanks.

James
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> Fellow DMC Owners BEWARE!!
>  
> I purchased struts from http://stores.ebay.com/DYBusiness-Shop off
e-bay.  The sellers Deric & Levin Yu claimed they were original
DeLorean struts and when I recieved them, although they had the DMC
logo on them, only opened 3/4 of the way.  Come to find out, they are
some how associated with www.nvoconcepts.com.  BEWARE OF THEM TOO!! 
Upon calling and e-mailing the sellers, they claimed that not opening
all the way was typical.  All DMC owners know this is not true!!  They
agreed to exchange them and I sent them back.  It is three months
later and I still do not have the struts nor money.  They do not
return e-mails or calls.  I have contacted Ebay and the local
authorities but do not know what will happen as I am in New England
and they are in CA.
>  
> The point is...STICK TOGETHER and only buy from known DMC owners
and/or resellers like PJ Grady, DeLorean One, Specialty Auto, DMC
Houston, NWParts, etc.
>  
> Sad "scamed" DMC Owner!!  :(
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:50:09 -0500
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: DeLorean Community


I would like to thank DeLorean Motor Company of Texas http://www.usadmc.com/ for their assistance in protecting and watching out for our fellow DMC owners.  I previously wrote a warning about an Ebay scam regarding DMC struts.  They took an avid interest in making sure that myself, as well as other DMC owners do not get scammed!!  So let's keep helping and watching out for eachother!!

Jason





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 17:51:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Low-vin door problem



If the door is hitting someplace even after you have removed the pins
you have a problem. Try closing the door holding a piece of stiff
paper and try to find the point that it is hitting on. When you close
the door without the pins it should close smoothly and straight down
with nothing forcing it foward or back. Maybe a screw is sticking out
under the weatherstripping seals or a pop rivit is not flat. Maybe
soemthing is caught at the top of the door by the hinges underneath.
It is strange that it should be temperature related. Check that the
strut is not "bottomong out". There are some struts that seem to force
the anchors when the door gets closed and eventually it ruins the
lower mount. Take the strut off the door and close it slowly, see if
it closes better all the way without it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks for you reply David
> I adjusted the strikers pins and they don't hit the door, they lock 
> fine at 60F and above. I even tried to close the door without the 
> seal and strikers ; when the weather is cold, the rear of the door 
> shows a 1-2cms ajar though the front is at bottom...( the door is no 
> more parallel to the body )The door can't travel any more so I have 
> to push firmly from outside to lock it all the way. When you unlock 
> the door while holding it,you can see the rear "pop" slightly.
> Sounds strange lol 
> 
> regards
> Raphael
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Sounds like 2 problems. You may have the torsion bar a spine or 2 
> too
> > tight. You should be able to close from inside. The other thing to
> > check is that the door should not hit on the head of either striker
> > (anchor) pin. If you see the head is shiny remove a washer or 2 so 
> it
> > doesn't hit the head of the pin. If when you close the door and you
> > hit the head of the anchor pin, that forces the door foward (or 
> back
> > depending on which is hitting). If it is hitting BOTH pins on the 
> head
> > that can cause the door to jam. Make sure that the anchor pin goes
> > right up the center of the guide into the lock. The door moves in 
> an
> > arc so it is a little tricky to adjust. Some trial-and-error will 
> get
> > it. Do all of your adjustments on level ground. I think on the real
> > low vin cars they didn't all come with the stainless guides. You 
> may
> > want to add them if you don't have them.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi
> > > I have a problem with the driver door on my low-vin (#706). 
> Every 
> > > time outside temperature drops under 15C ( 60F), it seems like 
> the 
> > > stainless moves slightly and the door twists so that I have an 
> ajar 
> > > at the rear : with front latch locked properly, I can't lock the 
> > > rear one, even after adjusting the striker pin. The door acts 
> like a 
> > > spring and it's hard to push it in place from the outside. No 
> way of 
> > > closing it completely from inside; the rear latch only locks at 
> the 
> > > first security....
> > > I live in France and hope to explain the problem correctly ;-)
> > > Any suggest to correct this ?
> > > ps: see pics of #706 in the photo section
> > > thanks !!
> > > Raphael, France








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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 19:22:32 -0000
From: "jchapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Faulty gauges again..



Dave.. 

The front ground (behind the front left tyre) seems to be responsible 
for the front lighting and the fuel pump, the more common cause for 
problems seems to be the ground points from the gauges and/or the 
central console switches.

The parts/repair manual do not seem to show the connections very 
clearly. If you remove your radio, and support cage if you have one, 
it is reasonably easy to see.  With the radio out, look behind where 
the hazard light switch sits, on the right hand side of the support 
bracket  is a small nut/bolt arrangement connecting upto 6 eyelet 
wires. DO NOT attempt to remove the nut, the centre console shroud 
covers the other side but does not prevent it from falling out if you 
undo it, or provide any pressure to stop the bolt spinning as you try 
and tighten it. You can just about get a spanner up from the 
passenger foot well, passing it behind the centre console flap but it
would be better to remove the entire central console.

I posted some images to the \files\electrical folder to help.

John Chapelhow
'Boeing' #0737








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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 18:04:03 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Front wheel caster/camber



I'm sure this has been hit around the list in the past-But my front
wheels are chambered out so much that my tires are already killed not
even 10K of life-the outside tread is bald now. What to check out? My
front end frame including shock towers is BRAND NEW! can my ball
joints or shocks/springs have any influence on this? Also it seems any
time I make a turn from a dead stop with the steering all the way to
lock (either right or left-doesnt matter which), I feel a sort of
quick jump or pop come from the front end. I don't believe it is
happening from the sway bar. The books I have don't seem to touch on
this very well. What kind of things should I be checking out? Thanks
guys! Dani B. #5003








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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 13:14:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Community


Is this an action against a seller who may be
scamming, or selling inferior parts??  Or because the
item included the DMC logo?


--- Jason Sisto <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> I would like to thank DeLorean Motor Company of
> Texas http://www.usadmc.com/ for their assistance in
> protecting and watching out for our fellow DMC
> owners.  I previously wrote a warning about an Ebay
> scam regarding DMC struts.  They took an avid
> interest in making sure that myself, as well as
> other DMC owners do not get scammed!!  So let's keep
> helping and watching out for eachother!!
> 
> Jason





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 20:59:48 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Ebay SCAM!! DMC Owners BEWARE


At the risk of reopening a contentious topic, this is exactly why
a company has to protect its trademark.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> Interesting that they have the DMC logo on them. We've also contacted 
> Ebay as this isn't the first we've heard of them. Anyone else who has 
> bought these (with or without the DMC logo) 





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