From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2319
Date: Monday, November 15, 2004 9:49 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

4. Re: New Rear Number Plate Surrounds
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. How far do your doors open?
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

6. RE: Re: Valve adjustment? (Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Re: New Rear Number Plate Surrounds
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

8. RE: Missing clutch dust boot
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. Looking for Phil Haro
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

11. Selling Original Pic From JZD's Dunmurry Office
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Fan Speed 2 = nothing
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

14. Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

15. Re: Valve adjustment?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. RE: Fan Speed 2 = nothing
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Aluminum license plate surround
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

19. delorean.org
From: "icypalmtree" <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

22. Re: Valve adjustment? (Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

23. RE: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: How far do your doors open?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

25. Re: How far do your doors open?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 18:16:19 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)


Matt - working with feeler gages takes some, er, well - feel.  You 
should be able to slide the blade into the space without forcing it,
yet there should be slight drag.  If there is any doubt, go to the 
next thicker/thinner blade and see if that will fit.  Make sure the
blade is clean.  I like to wipe them with a rag with a little clean
oil on it to help it slide better.  If your blades aren't the exact thicknesses
you need, you can stack them.
--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> Both responses I have received in asking how to adjust the valves 
> have been of the tone "Find someone who knows how to do it." If 
> this would have been the type of advice I'd followed on my car since 
> I purchased it about a year ago, I unnecessarily would have easily 
> spent THOUSANDS of dollars on it in labor alone. 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 18:26:55 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)


Unfortunatly I've missed most this thread becacuse I have been away
and very busy. But it seems you have a good understanding on how this
is done. BUT, what you need to do, is position the #1 on TCD at the
END of the compression stroke and check THAT cylinder's intake/exhaust
rocker. But you don't go 360 degrees for the next measurement- go from
#1 to the next cylinder in the firing order, then you adjust the
intake/exhaust valve for THAT cylinder. And so on and so on. You will
need to remove the spark plugs in order to determine which cylinder is
where in the order-but there are other methods such as marking your
crank pulley or going by the distributor- but you would probably want
to just remove the plugs. For your
last question, if the feeler gauge goes in between and has plenty of
clearance up and down, you want to adjust the valve so there is very
little clearance, and the feeler just goes in between without force.
On the otherhand, if there is no clearance for the feeler then you
want to adjust the rocker so again-the feeler goes in with little
force. These don't need to be exactly on the mark with the feeler,
they can be a small amount over or under the size feeler you're using
with no effect on performance. I've done plenty of valve adjustments
on all different cars (today I'll be doing the adj. on the DeLo as
well) and they are a peice of cake. if you need more assistance feel
free to contact me off list. Dani B. #5003






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 13:36:08 -0600
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)


Believe it or not, there are people who just are not mechanically inclined.
I agree automobile mechanical work isn't rocket science but there are many
aspects that do require a mechanical ability that some folks just don't
grasp easily. Rather than encourage those folks to dive in and get into real
trouble some of the posts apparently played conservative and suggested
getting some help from a mechanic. If you would have posted something more
specific like your most recent post you probably would have gotten an answer
more to your liking.

Bruce Benson

>
>
>
> Both responses I have received in asking how to adjust the valves
> have been of the tone "Find someone who knows how to do it."  If
> this would have been the type of advice I'd followed on my car since
> I purchased it about a year ago, I unnecessarily would have easily
> spent THOUSANDS of dollars on it in labor alone.
>
> The reason I post here asking for advice, is because ***I*** want to
> do the procedure.





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 19:45:16 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Rear Number Plate Surrounds



Hi Harold, 

I knew someone would point that out.

I had them cast with mountings on the rear, where the original 
screws would have gone, these can be drilled and threaded. 

The idea behind this is so you can reach through the rear tail light 
appetures and secure the surround to the car from inside the rear 
bumper. (hope that makes sence)

The result....no visible screw heads messing up the look of the 
numberplate surround, of course you could still drill and 
countersink the surround enabling you to use the original fixing 
method that's your choice.

I thought it made a better finish to have the screw heads out of 
sight especially if you have a surround that is polished and not 
painted, the last thing you want is screw heads showing.

All comments welcome, more info and photos at www.newoldbits.co.uk 

Kindest Regards



James RG 
VIN# 5462 
England, UK




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> 
> How do you mount it? I didn't see any screw holes.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 12:09:11 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: How far do your doors open?


Every once in a while, I come across a technical drawing like this one:
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/t_dims.htm

...that shows the door open a full ~90 degrees.  On most (if not all) actual cars, the gas strut seems to limit the door travel.

Thus, my question:  What else (other than the gas strut) limits the door travel, and why don't our doors open further?  Seems to me it would be more convenient to have the door open as far as possible.

Regards,
Owen

VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 18:07:59 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Valve adjustment? (Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle)


I am certain that all of our DML readers who have read your response to
David Teitelbaum and yours truly, DMC Joe's, comments on your request for
assistance have several responses they might like to make in our defense.
Let me save everyone precious time with this direct response.

Matt,

Your question was: "Is there a procedure somewhere that tells the
"layperson" how to adjust the valves on the DeLorean?"

Our detailed answerers were to a "lay person" not, as you describe yourself,
a person who can do procedures yourself with no one helping you except the
occasional friend. 

Finally you said: "Auto mechanics is NOT rocket science, and providing you
have the tools and literature, ANYONE CAN DO IT."

I'll be sure to pass this on to Steven Wynne, Rob Grady and Don Steger.

Regards,
DMC Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Spittle [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu] 
Subject: [DML] Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)

Both responses I have received in asking how to adjust the valves have been
of the tone "Find someone who knows how to do it."  If this would have been
the type of advice I'd followed on my car since I purchased it about a year
ago, I unnecessarily would have easily spent THOUSANDS of dollars on it in
labor alone.  

The reason I post here asking for advice, is because ***I*** want to do the
procedure.





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 23:08:34 -0000
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: New Rear Number Plate Surrounds


I saw one of these.  Very high quality.  The holes are in the back and line
up with the holes on your fascia.  It is attached from behind and therefore
leaves a much more refined finish.

Chris H
vin 5255 (to have one of these)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: [DML] Re: New Rear Number Plate Surrounds
>
> How do you mount it? I didn't see any screw holes.





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 17:30:19 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Missing clutch dust boot


Charles, I have a couple for right now. But, I'm new ones made.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Major [mailto:charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Subject: [DML] Missing clutch dust boot

I am looking for a dust boot for the clutch master cylinder, I am sure that
many will fit just wanted to check with you experts.





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 23:37:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)



Matt - I can relate to the tone of your response, but the question 
that you ask below cannot be answered in a meaningful manner via 
email.  The only really "adequate" way is to feel the drag of the 
feeler gauge through the gap after it has been adjusted correctly.  
That "feel" is what guides people to the proper adjustment.  That 
said, the feeler gauge will have a slight drag to it when it is 
inserted between the two surfaces (cam lobe and rocker arm).  If the 
gap is too tight, you will still be able to pull the gauge through 
due to the oil on the surfaces.  However, the drag will increase.  
If the gap is too large, there will be no feeling of dragging when 
the gauge is moved in and out.  With the engine set at TDC on #1, 
half of the valves will be "loose" (ie valves closed), and half will 
be tight (ie valves at some stage of opening).  You set the "loose" 
ones, keeping in mind that some are intake and some are exhaust, 
rotate the engine until the two groups swap, and set the other half 
which are now "loose".  If you get the valve lash (or gap) too 
tight, you can cause a valve to get burned because it may not close 
completely when the engine is hot.  If it is too loose, it will make 
noise, and will affect the performance of that cylinder.  As David 
noted, the gap changes when you tighten the locknut on the adjusting 
screw, due to tolerance take-up in the threads.  You have to "lead 
your target" somewhat by figuring out which way it changes, and 
adjust the initial setting accordingly.  This will take some 
experience, which you are determined to get for yourself (which is 
fine ... nobody else to blame if you burn a valve).  The valve lash 
adjustment is done with the engine cold, but all settings actually 
change when the engine gets hot.  All mechanics, whether 
professional or shade-tree, have the opportunity for their first 
valve lash adjustment.  Now is your time ... go for it.

FWIW - I hired a mechanic to do the first valve adjustement on 
Winged1 shortly after I bought the car in 1988.  I watched him do 
the whole thing, and asked to feel the feeler gauge after each valve 
was done.  That way I was able to get a feel for the correct feel, 
if you're picking up what I'm laying down here.  I have since done 
several others ... once more for my car, and for other PNDC members.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
  Why on earth 
> would I pay someone $50/hour to do such a simple thing?  The only 
> question that remains in my mind is how easily I should be able to 
> slide the feeler gauge in between the valve lobe and the rocker 
> arm.  
> 
> Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle
> #1604








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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 00:54:12 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Looking for Phil Haro


Hi,

I just downloaded a picture off of DMCH's
site that's there courtesy of Phil Haro.
(The picture with those blossoming trees)

If you're on this list, could you please email
me on delorean <at> home.nl I noticed something
on the photo that I'd like to ask you about.

Thanks,

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations...   Driving a Nissan...

DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 00:28:06 -0000
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Selling Original Pic From JZD's Dunmurry Office



To All In The Community:


A while back, I obtained an original pic from JZD's Office / 
Conference Room. This is a prototype pic in a stainless steel frame. 
You can see the pic hanging on the wall in the conference room in 
the documentary that was shown on the Discovery Channel. It is 
absolutely the real deal. I am contemplating putting it on E-Bay 
next week. 

I received it from one of the guys who did the liquidation with 
Consolidated. He brought back a ton of stuff along with all the 
shipping containers of  parts and inventory.

Anyone interested, let me know.... (it ain't gonna be cheap)

Regards,
John Curry
maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com









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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 01:36:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)



Since you are determined to try this then here goes;
When you are CERTAIN the valve you are checking is closed (and the
best way is to see the other valve in the cylinder is full open) you
insert the proper size feeler gauge in between the rocker arm
adjusting screw and the valve stem. You should feel a slight drag. It
should not fly through and neither be hard to slide or even not fit.
It certainly can't hurt to check the clearances. I find that out of
the 12 valves to check you may have to actually adjust 1 or 2
slightly. Before attempting to actually adjust any valves you should
practice by checking all of them first to try to develop a "feel" for
what the proper fit of the feeler gauge is. Once you think you know
what the proper drag (or feel) is you will know if any need
adjustment. Now go back to any that you think you want to adjust. Keep
in mind that when you tighten the locking nut after adjusting the
screw it WILL change the clearance. You will have to go back several
times until you can set the clearance to the proper spot so that when
you tighten the lock nut and it changes the clearance it will be the
exact setting you wanted. My opinion is you may not get the adjustment
any better than it is without a lot of patience and practice so you
are probably better off leaving it alone. If you have to make any
large adjustments you are doing something wrong like trying to adjust
an opening valve or the wrong valve with the wrong gauge. A TINY
amount of movement on the adjusting screw is a large change of
clearance. This is not Rocket Science but it does take an experienced
hand. There are just some things it doesn't pay to do. I just had to
pay $100 to have a windshield installed. I don't do alignments, tire
repair, mounting, or balancing. I won't paint cars anymore (too
messy). There is no conspiracy at work here. It is just that I know
what things can get you into BIG trouble especailly if you are honest
and say you have never done this kind if thing before. Door adjustment
in particular can be a DANGEROUS  procedure if things go wrong like
the head of the torsion bar splits, you can't get the anchor bracket
loose, the threads on the bolts for the anchor brackets is stripped,
you don't have the right tools, etc. Any money saved is not worth your
health, never mind the back glass. I never said to spend *MONEY* on
adjusting the valves, just try to get someone to help you that has
done this before. Adjusting the valves on a Delorean is easy, just not
easy to do yourself the first time without help. This is something you
really can't explain well in this medium or in a book. It takes some
practice to do it right. I started out on lawnmowers. There were only
2 valves and they were easy to get to and do. If you are doing the
30,000 mile service you are supposed to also replace the O2 sensor and
reset the Lambda counter. Let the list know how things turn out. It
might be a good idea to do a compression test before and after you
adjust the valves. This way you can see if you got any improvement or
if you really screwed the whole thing up! You actually need two feeler
gauges, one for the intake (.005) and one for the exhaust (.010). See
A:02:01 DO NOT MIX THEM UP. The exhaust is always a larger clearance
because they run hotter and expand more. I usually do all the intakes
first and them do all the exhausts together but that's just me. You
can find your own order to do it, just be sure which valve (intake or
exhaust) that you are adjusting and that it is CLOSED. It also should
be mentioned that the motor must be COLD ie, not run for at least 8
hours before. Try not to drop any dirt, parts, tools, etc into the
motor with the valve covers off. It is good practice to do an oil
change soon after doing a valve adjustment to flush out any dirt that
may have gotten inside, like pieces of gasket.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Both responses I have received in asking how to adjust the valves 
> have been of the tone "Find someone who knows how to do it."  If 
> this would have been the type of advice I'd followed on my car since 
> I purchased it about a year ago, I unnecessarily would have easily 
> spent THOUSANDS of dollars on it in labor alone.  
> 









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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 04:17:10 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Fan Speed 2 = nothing



When I turn on my AC, fans, etc...  to fan speed 1, 3, and 4, I get
normal behavior.  When I try fan speed 2, it actually turns off.  When
I asked about this recently, I received several suggestions to check
out the resistor in the passenger footwell.  Mine was very rusted, so
I installed a new one.  Unfortunately, I get the same behavior.  Does
anyone have other ideas on the possible cause of this?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 02:55:54 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?



I have an early VIN car that has the later door locks that match my
ignition.  When I purchased the car, the passenger side lock would not
turn with the key in it (but the key does insert all the way). 
Suddenly, my driver side door lock won't turn by the key anymore
either.  I've taken off the upper panel to look at the inside, and
nothing is odd looking: the white part that hooks to the locking rod
seems in place...  I can push and pull the rod manually to lock and
unlock the door, and the interior switch still works...  but the key
won't move the center, metallic portion of the door lock more than a
few degrees.

Has anyone had this happen before?  Any ideas on how to fix it or
troubleshoot it?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 06:21:26 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment?



All done.  The toughest part, in my opinion, was making sure I was 
pressing the feeler gauge in "straight" without putting it in at an 
angle.  Out of the 12 valves, about 7 or 8 needed small amounts of 
adjusting.  Mostly I found that when they did need adjustment, the 
intake valves were too loose and the exhaust valves were too tight.  
I made sure to re-check each valve after tightening it.  

I used the feeler gauge that corresponded to the larger end of the 
tolerance region so that if anything, my valves might be too loose 
rather than too tight.  I generally accepted it to be a correct fit 
when I could move the feeler gauge relatively easily and have it 
make a "zipper-like" sound in between the rocker and the cam lobe. 

I suppose there are several methods to adjust the valves, but I did 
the same method as mentioned in the workshop manual because it only 
requires you to rotate the engine twice.  Once to get it lined up 
for TDC for cylinder #1, and then once more to get it 360 degrees 
after that.  

thanks for all of the lively responses,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 23:57:19 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fan Speed 2 = nothing


Greg, If the resistor wasn't burned out or a bad connection or wire, then
the switch must be the problem. There isn't anything else between the motor
and the power.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 10:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fan Speed 2 = nothing



> When I turn on my AC, fans, etc...  to fan speed 1, 3, and 4, I get
> normal behavior.  When I try fan speed 2, it actually turns off.  When
> I asked about this recently, I received several suggestions to check
> out the resistor in the passenger footwell.  Mine was very rusted, so
> I installed a new one.  Unfortunately, I get the same behavior.  Does
> anyone have other ideas on the possible cause of this?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 00:55:58 EST
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Aluminum license plate surround


I have missed a few postings. Where can I view this new item and what is  the 
price?
 
Brian McCabe, VIN 5830 in Florida


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 06:27:29 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?



I also thought I had an early vin with the later locks, and I had 
the same problem you described.  That is, the single ignition key I 
had worked for everything except the passenger door.  This I thought 
was strange.  Why would the previous owner replace only the driver's 
side lock when updating it to the new lock system?  

Then, as I grew frustrated that the passenger-side lock didn't work 
with my key, I found someone selling a NOS set of door locks.  I 
purchased them and planned on replacing both the driver's side door 
lock, and the passenger side; effectively reverting my car back to 
the 2-key system.  

To get the old locks out, my only option was to break them it seemed 
(I'm sure there's a better way).  So, to remove the driver's door 
lock, I stuck a flathead screwdriver in the hole and began trying to 
pry off the "face" of the lock.  Well, before I had even begun doing 
that, I realized that I could unlock and lock the driver's 
door...WITH THE SCREWDRIVER!!!  So apparently my door locks were 
never updated, but rather someone rigged it.  If someone did this to 
your car, it's not really surprising that your driver-side door lock 
would quit working one day.  Maybe go and try out your 
screwdriver? :)

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have an early VIN car that has the later door locks that match my
> ignition.  When I purchased the car, the passenger side lock would 
not
> turn with the key in it (but the key does insert all the way). 
> Suddenly, my driver side door lock won't turn by the key anymore
> either.  I've taken off the upper panel to look at the inside, and
> nothing is odd looking: the white part that hooks to the locking 
rod
> seems in place...  I can push and pull the rod manually to lock and
> unlock the door, and the interior switch still works...  but the 
key
> won't move the center, metallic portion of the door lock more than 
a
> few degrees.
> 
> Has anyone had this happen before?  Any ideas on how to fix it or
> troubleshoot it?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 06:48:29 -0000
From: "icypalmtree" <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: delorean.org



I have recently become rather infatuate with deloreans and as a 
member or the "infomation age of hysteria" (song reference :-)) I 
promptly set to work looking for forums.  I discovered delorean.com, 
and in just the time that I have been looking, it has become a very 
user-friendly site with well set-up forums.  The only problem is 
that it has existed for only several weeks and therefore has only 44 
members as of 11-15-04.  This makes is a very good setup without 
many users and thus something that seems to me to be a waste.

I am therefore simply putting out the word on the existance of said 
site in the hopes that the obviously knowledgealbe people of this 
group would join it and put to use the fine setup.

If this has already been broached, please excuse my waste of your 
time.  If not, please join now, 

      www.delorean.org

Cheers,
-Konrad
(Vin# God I wish I owned a delorean...)









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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 06:54:10 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment? (In response to DMC Joe and David T)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
>The only question that remains in my mind is how easily I should be 
able to slide the feeler gauge in between the valve lobe and the 
rocker arm.<

I'm puzzled. I also assumed you were asking about how to set the 
crankshaft/camshaft. That's the hardest part to understand and even 
it's pretty easy. Operating a feeler gauge takes no brains at all. 
I'm  puzzled as to why so many responded that it does. You're setting 
a clearance,you want it to be as close to the gauge dimension as 
possble without being unable to remove it. That why it's called a 
gauge. How hard is that to figure out? God help you if you ever have 
to work within a few thousandths or worse, tenths.

If you know how to set the crank but not how to operate a feeler gauge
maybe you shouldn't even be doing this kind of work. It's like 
putting the cart way before the horse. The procedure is in the 
service manual but any car with a similiar setup is adjusted the same 
way. All you need to know is the clearence spec and whether it's done 
hot or cold.

Greg








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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 09:12:20 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?


Your locks may have dirt in them or the keys have been bent somehow.

You can open almost every Delorean with one key just by playing with
it a littlebit. Thanks John....

Elvis & 6548...with alarm


> I have an early VIN car that has the later door locks that match my
> ignition.  When I purchased the car, the passenger side lock would not
> turn with the key in it (but the key does insert all the way). 
> Suddenly, my driver side door lock won't turn by the key anymore
> either.  I've taken off the upper panel to look at the inside, and
> nothing is odd looking: the white part that hooks to the locking rod
> seems in place...  I can push and pull the rod manually to lock and
> unlock the door, and the interior switch still works...  but the key
> won't move the center, metallic portion of the door lock more than a
> few degrees.
> 
> Has anyone had this happen before?  Any ideas on how to fix it or
> troubleshoot it?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 09:00:38 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment? (Matt "D.I.Y." Spittle)



If I'm going to make a comment on this, it's actually going to be in
Matt's defence.

Many of us here have learned varing degrees of car repair on our cars.
The valve adjustment here being an example. I am a rabid fan of DIY
type car shows. I record various tuning, hot rodding, and restoration
shows from both Spike TV, and DIY Network. And these shows have
certainly helped me a great degree when it comes to car repair. And in
this case, how to perform a proper valve adjustment on a motor is once
such thing.

Matt was asking for clarification on how to procedure was to be
performed. There are many procedures in the workshop manual that I've
not understood until I either looked at the parts book, or had the
pieces sitting in front of me. So I understand exactly where he was
comming from. But I can't understand why no one wanted to post the
information he requested.

I understand where you, and Dave are coming from as well. Ignoring the
fact of course that the first post said that he shouldn't need to do
this, yet the follow-up post stated that he might find one, or two
valve lashes out of adjustment. Staying on track, however, I can't
possibly understand why anyone would want to refuse giving him the
requested information. It's good to give out a caution that the
procedure might not be nessisary, in the interest of further helping
someone. But to refuste to give information on the basis that you're
trying to protect someone from themselves, that is absolutely wrong.
People come to this forum for help with their cars, and they do this
by asking questions. We should never deny anyone even a crumb of
knowlege, simply because we don't feel that educating them is in their
best interests.

Matt is absolutly right. Car repair is NOT rocket science. The catch
is you must first know the procedures of what has to be done. And yes
Joe, I'm sure that the vendors would agree, seeing as how such a large
portion of their time is spent giving technical advice to their many
customers over the phone.

A "layperson" is someone who is a non-professional. It does not
describe someone who is incapable. Even you had to start learning
somewhere, Joe. Would you have been able to operate a DeLorean service
center had someone not have taken the time to educate you, when you
first had questions?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> I am certain that all of our DML readers who have read your response to
> David Teitelbaum and yours truly, DMC Joe's, comments on your
request for
> assistance have several responses they might like to make in our
defense.
> Let me save everyone precious time with this direct response.
> 
> Matt,
> 
> Your question was: "Is there a procedure somewhere that tells the
> "layperson" how to adjust the valves on the DeLorean?"
> 
> Our detailed answerers were to a "lay person" not, as you describe
yourself,
> a person who can do procedures yourself with no one helping you
except the
> occasional friend. 
> 
> Finally you said: "Auto mechanics is NOT rocket science, and
providing you
> have the tools and literature, ANYONE CAN DO IT."
> 
> I'll be sure to pass this on to Steven Wynne, Rob Grady and Don Steger.
> 
> Regards,
> DMC Joe








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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 12:59:03 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: RE: Key stopped turning in door! Ideas?



IF the lock suddenly stopped turning, then most likely you have a pin 
that has gotten sticky and not slipped back down into place once the 
key moved past it and it is preventing the lock cylinder from 
turning .  Take the lock oout and clean it thoroughly and relubricate 
it and it should work.  

Michael Q









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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 13:51:16 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: How far do your doors open?


Not quite.  It has to do with the geometry of the torsion spring and
the gas strut.  If the door opens all the way as you suggest, the gas 
strut goes to full extension and then compresses a little as the door 
opens beyond where it does now.  If this were to happen, the 
cylinder would try to compress right away as you closed the door.
There would be no way for the gas strut to get pulled open before
compressing again.  In short, you would not be able to close the door without
moving one of the attachment points for the gas strut.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> Every once in a while, I come across a technical drawing like this one: 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/t_dims.htm 
> 
> ...that shows the door open a full ~90 degrees. On most (if not all) actual 
> cars, the gas strut seems to limit the door travel. 
> 
> Thus, my question: What else (other than the gas strut) limits the door travel, 
> and why don't our doors open further? Seems to me it would be more convenient 
> to have the door open as far as possible. 
> 
> Regards, 
> Owen 
> 
> VIN 10470 "1 21 GW" 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 05:55:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How far do your doors open?


With the strut removed, you can open the door more.

The limitation would be the length of the COMPRESSED
strut needs to "fit" with the door closed.  If you
make the strut longer, it will bend or break the strut
mounts when the door is closed.


--- Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us> wrote:

> Thus, my question:  What else (other than the gas
> strut) limits the door travel, and why don't our
> doors open further?  Seems to me it would be more
> convenient to have the door open as far as possible.



		
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