From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2321
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 7:14 PM


There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Selling Original Pic From JZD's Dunmurry Office
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: delorean.org
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: missing relay in engine bay
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: 17000 Vins..
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

6. Re: delorean.org
From: "icypalmtree" <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Need Frame Specs
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

8. Re: Re: 02 Sensor
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Silver/Mirror Tint
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Door finishers
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. Re: Re: 02 Sensor
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

12. Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: 17000 Vins..
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

15. Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

16. Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Re: 02 Sensor
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

18. "Free Advice"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted
From: "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com>

20. Re: 17000 Vins..
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 19:29:36 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Selling Original Pic From JZD's Dunmurry Office



I too have one of these pictures.  I brought it with me to the DCS 
2000 and had John Delorean sign it.  It now rests on my wall in my 
den.
Mine was originally hanging on one of the walls in the DMC Conference 
room (also shown on the documentary).  I obtained it from the 
conference room of a local company here in Holland Michigan called 
Gentex.  They make the fancy rear view mirrors in cars 
(www.gentex.com)
John, i would be interested in seeing a picture of your picture.  Do 
you have any available? 

Erik Geerdink
4512

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> To All In The Community:
> 
> 
> A while back, I obtained an original pic from JZD's Office / 
> Conference Room. This is a prototype pic in a stainless steel 
frame. 
> You can see the pic hanging on the wall in the conference room in 
> the documentary that was shown on the Discovery Channel. It is 
> absolutely the real deal. I am contemplating putting it on E-Bay 
> next week. 
> 
> I received it from one of the guys who did the liquidation with 
> Consolidated. He brought back a ton of stuff along with all the 
> shipping containers of  parts and inventory.
> 
> Anyone interested, let me know.... (it ain't gonna be cheap)
> 
> Regards,
> John Curry
> maddog6198_at_dml_a...








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 19:40:44 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Odd starting problem, Help please...



Ok here's my embarrasing moment....

I was washing the car before winter, and just while cleaning it I 
decided to wash the engine compartment lightly. Well after just 
giving it a light washing, shop vacuuming and blowing it dry, the 
car would no longer start. Not wanting to damage anything I rolled 
it into the garage. I removed the air cleaner, disconnected any 
electrical connections that might have gotten wet, cleaned any 
contacts, disconnected the frequency valve, cold start valve, idle 
speed motor, cleaned the the resistors on the firewall. Dried 
everything thoroughly with a hair dryer. Still no start. So then I 
turned a fan on it in the garage to blow warm air over it overnight 
and would just try it in the morning. 

This morning after crossing my fingers, it started on the first turn 
after hooking everything back up. It was just in my garage running 
on initial warmup and the air cleaner was off, and for some stupid 
reason I pushed down on the air venturi while it was warming up. It 
stalled immediately. It made a gasp and stalled.

So I went to restart it, and .... nothing, not starting again, so I 
wait another 2,3, 5 hours, and still nothing. What did I do to make 
it not want to start just by pushing on the air venturi?? Did I trip 
something? Everything has been dried out and cleaned, ran perfectly 
before this, started first hit of the key, now this all of a sudden.

I've scoured the DML archives looking for an answer, or similar 
situation with none found.

Anyone have a suggestion that I can try here? Kicking myself for 
even touching the air venturi now, and attempting to have a clean 
engine. I even disconnected the battery hoping it would reset 
something, tried the hot start trick, nothing. Entire fuel system is 
6 months old on this car.

Hopelessly stuck here, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe OBrien








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:39:18 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: delorean.org



The person who owns Delorean.org lives near me and does own a D. It 
was a pretty cool site set up with some good pics and such. He let it 
sit for quite awhile and eventually just directed the domain to his 
business I guess.

Maybe he mean't DeloreanS.org. That one has a good forum set-up like 
Tamir's and is owned by an enthusiastic Delorean owner.

Cain Grimes
002835

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, andydandy777_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 11/15/2004 9:59:57 AM Central Standard Time, 
> icypalmtree_at_dml_y... writes:
> www.delorean.org
> this site open up on neubix studio, I see nothing about Deloreans 
here
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 14:53:38 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: missing relay in engine bay


Raphael, As best I can tell some of the early cars didn't have the relay.
The diagram is on the web site under reference if you still need it. The car
unless it's a little hard to start will run fine with out it. It's only used
in the starting stage.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr]
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 10:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] missing relay in engine bay





> Hi
> In my engine bay, the relay next to the ignition resistor is missing.
> It works that way but I want to return to stock, so I'm looking for
> a diagram to install and rewire a new relay
> 
> Thanks for your help !
> Raphael





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 22:22:11 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins..



Looking for more information about 17xxx series VIN Deloreans.

Over the years, the standard belief was that approximately 100
of the 17xxx series VIN Deloreans were built for the Canadian
market, but it is unclear where the Canadian (or Metric) series
of cars starts and ends, and whether cars were "converted back".

The latest US spec 17xxx series car I have seen was an automatic
that I viewed this weekend, VIN..17034 and I have an inquiry in
on VIN..17036 which I also suspect is a US spec 17xxx series car.
At least 2 cars did not appear to be "converted back" to US spec.

The earliest Canadian (or Metric) 17xxx series cars that I know 
of are VIN..17061 (someone on this list) and mine, VIN..17063,
with the latest Canadian (or Metric) 17xxx series cars being
VIN..17156 (in series) or VIN..17707 (out of continuous series).

As for the previous 17xxx series discussion last month, add three
more to the early 81 style muffler (no exhaust tips) group:
VIN..17020, VIN..17034 and (most likely) VIN..17036.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The PO of #17084 purchased it in Feb of '83, shortly after they 
were 
> delivered to KAPAC, then sold out of a Cadillac dealership in 
> Oakville Ontario (I have a copy of the invoice). I do know that 
some 
> of these "Canadian" cars were converted back from Km/h to MPH to 
be 
> sold in the US (saw one at PF). 
> 
> I have no doubt that some cars may have been assembled by KAPAC 
and 
> others may have been "reassembled" due to poor quality of 
workmanship 
> after the line workers left the factory. All the research I have 
done 
> shows that the 17xxx series were manufactured in Ireland but did 
not 
> make it to the dealers before the bankruptcy. The 20xxx series are 
> the ones that may have been assembled by KAPAC
> 
> Mike Walsh
> #17084








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 23:22:21 -0000
From: "icypalmtree" <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: delorean.org


[Moderator Note: Another mystery solved, and another thread ended.  No need for further replies.  -moderator Mike Substelny]

Sorry guys, the correct url is deloreans.org with an "s"

Sorry for the confusion, I have just realized this...  

Anyway, please still sign up for this forum board, as it really is a 
good setup.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, andydandy777_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 11/15/2004 9:59:57 AM Central Standard Time, 
> icypalmtree_at_dml_y... writes:
> www.delorean.org
> this site open up on neubix studio, I see nothing about Deloreans 
> here








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 17:23:21 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Need Frame Specs


Contact http://www.pearce-design.com and I am sure he can give you what 
you need, he is the one that makes the SS frames.

Mark V



On Monday, November 15, 2004, at 11:31  AM, mydmc5898 wrote:

>
>
>
> Hi, I'm converting my 81 DMC-12 from Automatic to 5-speed. And The
> parts should be coming out soon. But I ran into a problem. I need
> the specs (measuerments and pics) of the 5-speed frame. Basiclly
> what are the changes that need to be made. If you could help me out
> please anyone!!!! My emails are MyDmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com
> DeLorean170_at_dml_aol.com and my phone# is 570-331-8456. I just need a few
> pics and if someone one the list has done this please if you
> canshare with me some of the information.
>
> Thanks again,
> Darryl
> VIN 5898





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 19:21:12 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 02 Sensor


They also make O2 sensor sockets that are split up one side to allow
for  the wire to pass out.  since yours is already loose it should
come out fine, mine was so sutuck I spun the O2 socket around it. 
Eventually I used a box wrench and broke the fella off.  This
preceeded a removal of the cross-over pipe (which I had to hacksaw
through) to get the O2 sensor threads removed.  Fun.

Incidentally, if your crossover flex portion is going bad, you can get
it replaced fairly cheaply and the new flex pipes are much better than
the old.

Jeff
#10544


On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:06:41 -0000, David Teitelbaum
<jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> You should be able to get it out with an open end wrench if you have
> it loosened up. You can also cut the wire off and use a socket wrench.
> You do not have to drop the half-shaft but it wouldn't hurt to take
> them out and relubricate them anyway.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 19:59:34 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Silver/Mirror Tint


Has anyone use the mirrored tint on their DeLorean?  If so could you
put some pics in the Photos section.  I'm debating whether this would
be too much silver on the car (ha too much silver on a DeLorean) and
whether a dark black tint would look best.

Thanks
Jeff
#10544





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 03:34:22 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Door finishers



I'm curious if the "door finishers" made it onto every DeLorean? or
only some? I've heard both answers and want to know what really
happened. Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:03:06 -0800
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: 02 Sensor


Thanks for the comments on the 02 sensor removal, I looked at the sensor 
removal tool and knew it would not do the job after using an open end wrench 
and getting no where, with a box end wrench I have managed to get a few 
turns made toward removing it, guess I will keep plugging away and hope the 
new one goes in easer. After 23 years one should not expect anything to be 
easy on a exhaust system. Will use ante seize for good luck.
Lloyd--#3502

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Phillips" <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: 02 Sensor


>
>
> They also make O2 sensor sockets that are split up one side to allow
> for  the wire to pass out.  since yours is already loose it should
> come out fine, mine was so sutuck I spun the O2 socket around it.
> Eventually I used a box wrench and broke the fella off.  This
> preceeded a removal of the cross-over pipe (which I had to hacksaw
> through) to get the O2 sensor threads removed.  Fun.
>
> Incidentally, if your crossover flex portion is going bad, you can get
> it replaced fairly cheaply and the new flex pipes are much better than
> the old.
>
> Jeff
> #10544
>
>
> On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:06:41 -0000, David Teitelbaum
> <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> You should be able to get it out with an open end wrench if you have
>> it loosened up. You can also cut the wire off and use a socket wrench.
>> You do not have to drop the half-shaft but it wouldn't hurt to take
>> them out and relubricate them anyway.
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>
[long quote trimmed by moderator]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 03:53:53 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...



Problem resolved

After some advice I figured it out, just as a resolve to what was 
happening. The engine was basically flooded. I was just overly 
caustious not wanting to melt down the fragile fuse box by cranking 
it too much. When I messed with the air venturi I basically floooded 
it with gas. Then every time I turned the key to try to start it 
again, I was basically flooding the plugs more. Plugs can't fire 
when it is flooded. So after holding the gas pedal to the floor and 
cranking for about 5-8 seconds it fired to life again. Just starting 
it with the key wouldn't do it, but using the gas pedal when 
cranking did the trick.

All is well again. Hopefully someday this will help someone in the 
archives years from now.

Thanks for the advice all.

Joe OBrien



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Ok here's my embarrasing moment....
> 
> I was washing the car before winter, and just while cleaning it I 
> decided to wash the engine compartment lightly. Well after just 
> giving it a light washing, shop vacuuming and blowing it dry, the 
> car would no longer start. Not wanting to damage anything I rolled 
> it into the garage. I removed the air cleaner, disconnected any 
> electrical connections that might have gotten wet, cleaned any 
> contacts, disconnected the frequency valve, cold start valve, idle 
> speed motor, cleaned the the resistors on the firewall. Dried 
> everything thoroughly with a hair dryer. Still no start. So then I 
> turned a fan on it in the garage to blow warm air over it 
overnight 
> and would just try it in the morning. 
> 
> This morning after crossing my fingers, it started on the first 
turn 
> after hooking everything back up. It was just in my garage running 
> on initial warmup and the air cleaner was off, and for some stupid 
> reason I pushed down on the air venturi while it was warming up. 
It 
> stalled immediately. It made a gasp and stalled.
> 
> So I went to restart it, and .... nothing, not starting again, so 
I 
> wait another 2,3, 5 hours, and still nothing. What did I do to 
make 
> it not want to start just by pushing on the air venturi?? Did I 
trip 
> something? Everything has been dried out and cleaned, ran 
perfectly 
> before this, started first hit of the key, now this all of a 
sudden.
> 
> I've scoured the DML archives looking for an answer, or similar 
> situation with none found.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion that I can try here? Kicking myself for 
> even touching the air venturi now, and attempting to have a clean 
> engine. I even disconnected the battery hoping it would reset 
> something, tried the hot start trick, nothing. Entire fuel system 
is 
> 6 months old on this car.
> 
> Hopelessly stuck here, any suggestions would be greatly 
appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe OBrien








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 00:11:35 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Odd starting problem, Help please...


Joe,
The first thing I would think is wrong is condensation under/inside the
distributor cap. Don't push down on the air Ventura when you want to rev the
engine. Twist the throttle spindle, then the throttle body butterflies open
as well. Also, Un hook the cold start valve as to not flood the engine when
trying to start multiple times.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




[long duplicate quote removed by moderator]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 11:54:05 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins..



I bought #17084 last spring. At PF I met and talked to an owner of a 
17000 series car that WAS converted back (can't remember the vin). I 
personally saw the standard instrument cluster. I don't remember if 
it had the plate for the radio interference or not. I do remember 
checking out the stickers because mine, and every one of this series 
that I have seen (8+ so far), DID NOT have the bilingual stickers 
(French and English) as shown in the concour judging book. This 
owner said it was bought from KAPAC already converted. All 17000 
series cars that I have seen (or can make out in pictures) have the 
straight exhaust tips.

The first owner of 17084 bought it from a dealer who purchased a 
number of them from KAPAC and was sold in Feb '83. Apparently this 
dealer bought as many as they could and sold one to this guy and 2 
more to his friends at the same time. The story I was told (this guy 
had done quite a bit of research before he bought it) was that these 
cars WERE assembled at the factory but did not make it over here 
before the bankruptcy so they were brought over along with the 
parts. The car was NOT assembled out of spare parts in Ohio, but he 
suspected that some of the 20000 series may have been. The dealer 
who sold them was in Oakville Ontario, and I have confirmed that at 
least one other 17000 series car came from there. I suspect the 
majority of these cars went through that dealer. I still have not 
made it there yet, but apparently they still have some parts 
collecting dust on the shelves. There is also a rumor that there is 
also a few cars which were "shrink wrapped" and still hidden away at 
this dealership. I do plan on dropping in to see what parts they 
have and try to get a list of which vins they sold and the dates. 
Funny thing is I will be driving past the place today - if it is 
still open I will try to stop in.

>From what I can see, only the instrument cluster, radio interference 
plate, and the small straight exhaust tips identifies this series of 
cars. I mentioned it a few weeks ago but under the head liner was 
the vin (on both doors) #12084, exactly 500 off my vin. In addition, 
even though the build date is Oct '83 there seems to be a date of 
Aug '83 written there too. 

As far as #17707 - it is a typo. The car belongs to Marvin Stein of 
London Ontario who was at PF. It should actually be 17107.


Mike Walsh
#17084








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 05:30:02 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...



Joe - This is an interesting problem, based on what you reported in 
your post.  The mass air flow sensor plate rides on a fulcrum, with 
the other end of the lever arm pressing on the central plunger in 
the fuel distributor.  As the plate is pushed down by the incoming 
air charge, it presses up on the plunger.  The only speculative 
thought that comes to my mind is that you pressed the plate down 
enough to jam the plunger in the depressed (or up) position within 
the fuel distributor.  This would lead to an overly rich mixture, 
which could result in a non-start event.  Could you pull a spark 
plug and see if it is wet with fuel?  If this is the case, you may 
be able to free the plunger by lightly tapping on the center of the 
fuel distributor.  If that doesn't work, you might have to pull the 
distributor off of the "venturi housing" and manually work the 
plunger.  Perhaps somebody on the List who has a more intimate 
knowledge of the distributor has a plan for you?

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Ok here's my embarrasing moment....
> Anyone have a suggestion that I can try here? Kicking myself for 
> even touching the air venturi now, and attempting to have a clean 
> engine. I even disconnected the battery hoping it would reset 
> something, tried the hot start trick, nothing. Entire fuel system 
is 6 months old on this car.
> 
> Hopelessly stuck here, any suggestions would be greatly 
appreciated.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 15:37:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...



If your car flooded that easily from pushing on the plate then you
might be overdue for a tune-up. It should have started up easily.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> 
> Joe - This is an interesting problem, based on what you reported in 
> your post.  The mass air flow sensor plate rides on a fulcrum, with 
> the other end of the lever arm pressing on the central plunger in 
> the fuel distributor.  As the plate is pushed down by the incoming 
> air charge, it presses up on the plunger.  The only speculative 
> thought that comes to my mind is that you pressed the plate down 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 16:46:56 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: 02 Sensor


Don't forget to retap the thread first before trying to install a new sensor
!

Elvis & 6548...with a new sensor installed on the work bench



> Thanks for the comments on the 02 sensor removal, I looked at the sensor 
> removal tool and knew it would not do the job after using an open end
> wrench 
> and getting no where, with a box end wrench I have managed to get a few 
> turns made toward removing it, guess I will keep plugging away and hope
> the 
> new one goes in easer. After 23 years one should not expect anything to be
> easy on a exhaust system. Will use ante seize for good luck.
> Lloyd--#3502

-- 
Geschenkt: 3 Monate GMX ProMail + 3 Top-Spielfilme auf DVD
++ Jetzt kostenlos testen http://www.gmx.net/de/go/mail ++





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 15:55:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: "Free Advice"



I give free advice. I do not answer every post and sometimes I don't
answer the question directly. There is no conspiracy at work to funnel
jobs to professional shops. It is just that from the questions asked
and the form presented I can guess at the level of skill and when a
particular procedure is IMHO beyond the person's abilities. There are
some things it is just not easy to learn about on a Delorean. If you
are working on the motor and do not understand what a 4 stroke, 4
cycle, overhead valve IC engine is then maybe a valve adjustment is
not the first thing to practice on. Ditto for a door adjustment. When
it goes easy it appears to be simple. When you get into trouble like
the head of the torsion bar splits or you can't get the anchor bracket
off you can get into deep trouble quickly. If the engine was running
before the valve adjustment it couldn't have been too bad. Doing a
valve adjustment wrong can be BAD for the valve train. IMHO it is
better to leave it alone than to do your first one all by yourself.
You will be sorry when you burn valves, wear out the camshaft,
decrease you power and gas mileage, overheat the motor, and backfire
all over the neigborhood. You will notice some of these things right
away and some later. If your valves were way off then either someone
did a previous adjustment badly or the engine was overheated. I am all
for learning but sometimes you just need a little guidance. I cannot
be next to you and see exactly how you are doing the valve adjustment.
Technique IS important. I will continue to offer advice but I also add
cautions as to what IMHO is good to "sub" out. In all cases it is YOUR
car and you can do with it as you please.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 17:16:02 -0000
From: "ctdmc83" <nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com>
Subject: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted


[Subject line changed by moderator for clarity.]

This begs a question:  My door locks are getting "hard" (as if 
molasses rather than light oil or graphite was used to lubricate 
them).  What's the best recommendation for cleaning/lubricating that 
does NOT involve any disassembly?  WD-40?  Silicone?  Graphite?
I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.  I'm always a little concerned 
if the lock assembly might contain any small plastic parts that could 
be affected adversly by some solvent or lubricant.  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> There are two possible problems:
> 1) the key can't turn because of the insides of the
> cylinders aren't allowing it.
> 2) the key can't turn because of the rods and locking
> mechanisms are jammed.
> 
> It sounds like you have verified that it isn't #2.
> However, you could get in the car, lock it and roll
> down the windows, and reach through and try to unlock
> it while you watch and try to assist.
> 
> #1 can be because of corrosion in the cylinder, worn
> key, broken key, or foreign matter inside the
> cylinder.
> 
> The first thing to do is to make sure that your key is
> in good shape-- not worn, not bent, broken or
> breaking.
> 
> Here are my thoughts. You know that it has been
> modified from the original; do you know if it was
> professionally done, or by owner? I have seen/heard
> that some of the early cars were modified by owners
> very poorly.
> Unfortunately, you probably will need to have a lock
> professional look at it, and very probably keyed
> correctly and fresh code-cut keys.

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:21:26 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins..



Mike and List,

Although I have seen the radio interference plate on several later
17xxx series cars, I have also seen radio interference plates on
very late 16xxx cars and on a late 16xxx stripped tub (in person),
so I'm not sure this plate denotes all Canadian/Metric spec. cars.

The two early 17xxx VIN cars that I have looked at in person do not
have the radio interference plate (17020 and 17034) and both have
standard US instrument clusters.  VIN..17034 was purchased by the
original owner in March 1983 from a DMC dealer in SE Wisconsin and
by it's current condition, it is a very safe guess that there were
no upgrade/update/changes to this car since its original purchase.

Thanks for the additional info.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I bought #17084 last spring. At PF I met and talked to an owner of 
a 
> 17000 series car that WAS converted back (can't remember the vin). 
I 
> personally saw the standard instrument cluster. I don't remember 
if 
> it had the plate for the radio interference or not. I do remember 
> checking out the stickers because mine, and every one of this 
series 
> that I have seen (8+ so far), DID NOT have the bilingual stickers 
> (French and English) as shown in the concour judging book. This 
> owner said it was bought from KAPAC already converted. All 17000 
> series cars that I have seen (or can make out in pictures) have 
the 
> straight exhaust tips.
> 
> snip < 
> 
> Mike Walsh
> #17084








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------