From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2322
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 11:11 PM


There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. #4608
From: "Your Name" <alex_at_dml_deloreanowners.com>

2. Re: "Free Advice"
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. RE: Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. speedo
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

6. Parade of Lights in Houston - December 12th
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

7. Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. club meetings anyone?
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: club meetings anyone?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. New England Club?
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

12. Re: speedo
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

13. Re: New England Club?
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

15. Re: 17000 Vins..
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>

16. Re: 17000 Vins..
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

17. Door lock removal?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 17:30:32 -0500
From: "Your Name" <alex_at_dml_deloreanowners.com>
Subject: #4608



-- 
Well, I'm going to sell #4608. I need to focus on going back to 
college. I love the car, but it needs some work. Engine is good, but 
needs interior TLC. Needs headline, binnacle, and a pillars. Dash has 
one crack. Frame is great, no rust. It is on Ebay, and I will take the 
first $11000. Email me for more info awolf (at) Ancira.com 

Ebay Item num 4504983094

Alex Wolf
Internet Manager
Ancira Dealerships






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 18:10:05 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: "Free Advice"


In a message dated 11/16/04 3:30:37 PM Central Standard Time, 
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:


>  There is no conspiracy at work to funnel
> jobs to professional shops.

To elaborate, if there were a conspiracy to send work to the 'proper' :-) 
vendors, then how come all the vendors give out free technical help over the 
phone?  if there were higher motives, they would just tell you to 'bring it on in 
and we'll take a look!'.  

I think the vendors would prefer that owners do some of the little stuff by 
themselves.  they are very backed up as it is.  the thing is, a valve 
adjustment is only a little job for you (supermatty) because your valve covers are 
already off.  the job overall including cover removal is probably a deeper job 
than most inexperienced owners are confident in doing.  

that being said, since you already are halfway there, you might as well do 
the whole thing.  i bet it won't need much adjustment if any, and it probably 
won't change the way your engine runs - especially with your low miles.  I did 
mine at 47K or so and i think two valve were just off just a couple hundredth's 
of an inch.  didn't make a difference in the least.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 17:11:52 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted


If your looking for a lubricant that will penetrate the lock mechanism and
handles high and low temperature and won't wash off the Poly 250 is the
product.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/Polylub-250.jpg





-----Original Message-----
From: ctdmc83 [mailto:nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 11:16 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted


> This begs a question:  My door locks are getting "hard" (as if
> molasses rather than light oil or graphite was used to lubricate
> them).  What's the best recommendation for cleaning/lubricating that
> does NOT involve any disassembly?  WD-40?  Silicone?  Graphite?
> I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.  I'm always a little concerned
> if the lock assembly might contain any small plastic parts that could
> be affected adversly by some solvent or lubricant.

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 17:21:59 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...


Group,
If you push down on the air flow meter plate only, you add more fuel via the
control plunger going up in the fuel distributor and letting more fuel flow
to the injectors but your not adding the air to go with it so the car will
flood. That's why you rev with the engine the throttle spindle, then you get
air and fuel. Even then if you do it to much to fast you can feed more than
the car can handle and also flood out.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 9:38 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Odd starting problem, Help please...



> If your car flooded that easily from pushing on the plate then you
> might be overdue for a tune-up. It should have started up easily.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 01:38:18 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: speedo



Hi, my current speeedo seems to have a sticker with the numbers on 
it over the face which was bubbling and not quite the same colour as 
the guages next to it anyway..I started to peel it off in case there 
was the original numbers or other numbers underneith it, which there 
wasnt. Does any one have a fix for this or sell new stickers to 
overlay or perferably have a Metric speedo for sale???? Do all the 
speedo's have the numbers stuck on or just some or just mine?

Thanks Nick-sydney 10927








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 23:24:25 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Parade of Lights in Houston - December 12th



The Texas Delorean Club is planning on participating in a parade 
coming up next month. On December 12, 2004 there will be a parade in 
northwest Houston called the "Parade of Lights". This parade is to 
benefit the families of volunteer firefighters who have lost members 
in the line of duty. The parade starts at 5:45 pm and costs $25. 
Information can be found at this website: 
http://www.tvffrf.org/parade.php. Please let me know if you would 
like to participate so that I can register us for the event and give 
the event organizers the number of cars that will be coming.

This is a chance to meet with other Delorean owners and renew old
friendships. The club is beginning to plan other Delorean events and 
meets. If you would like to be put on the email list for club 
information then please contact me at birdwells(AT)usa.net.

Shannon
VIN 16113








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:09:53 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted


I prefer the 3-in-One Oil that comes in the small tin cans.  I think
that it lubs better than WD40 and its not an aerosol meaning its
easier to control the quantity.  Any lub will work though, WD40 isn't
the best in my opinion.

Jeff
#10544


On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 17:16:02 -0000, ctdmc83 <nmastrocinque_at_dml_sikorsky.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> [Subject line changed by moderator for clarity.]
> 
> This begs a question:  My door locks are getting "hard" (as if
> molasses rather than light oil or graphite was used to lubricate
> them).  What's the best recommendation for cleaning/lubricating that
> does NOT involve any disassembly?  WD-40?  Silicone?  Graphite?
> I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.  I'm always a little concerned
> if the lock assembly might contain any small plastic parts that could
> be affected adversly by some solvent or lubricant.
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 02:00:07 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: club meetings anyone?



Other than the last fall foiliage tour, do any NYC clubs or list
members ever get together to talk shop, perform repairs,etc...or does
anyone want to?








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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 03:59:40 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: club meetings anyone?



I live in upstate NY in the catskills about 3 hours away from the
city, but I'd still be interested in get togethers and stuff like
that. My DeLorean rests winters but come April I'll be ready to
attend! Let me know if you're planning something. -Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Other than the last fall foiliage tour, do any NYC clubs or list
> members ever get together to talk shop, perform repairs,etc...or
does
> anyone want to?








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 04:11:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted



The "best" type of lubricant for locks is a "dry" type. Any lubricant
that stays "wet" like an oil will attract and hold dirt. The dirt will
gum up the lock and make it wear much faster. Most locksmiths prefer
the powdered graphite. It is a little messy. Some like the dry
silicone sprays. I prefer the graphite. You can buy it in most auto
supply stores. It comes in a little tube. You shoot some in the lock
and shake a TINY amount on the key. You slide the key in and out of
the lock a couple of times and you're done. The best thing about
graphite is it can't freeze. On the subject of locks if you have a
worn key it will tear up the insides of your locks. Keys wear just
from being in your pocket and rubbing against the other things in
there. Put away an origional so you can always make a 2nd generation
copy. You do not want copies of copies (3rd-4th generation). Each
additional generational copy is further and further from the correct
code. It will also wear out the locks faster. If you feel the key
sticks or is hard to turn or doesn't go into the lock easily that is a
warning that it is not working right and will eventually cause you
trouble (like break or not open the lock). Lubrication may help but
the best thing to do is to get back to a 1st or 2nd generation key.
That is why the key code is so important, it is a way to get back to
the 1st generation. Try not to get the cheap aluminum blanks. They
wear out VERY fast. Brass is better. The key is supposed to be softer
than the lock so it will take the wear and when worn is easier to
replace than the locks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I prefer the 3-in-One Oil that comes in the small tin cans.  I think
> that it lubs better than WD40 and its not an aerosol meaning its
> easier to control the quantity.  Any lub will work though, WD40 isn't
> the best in my opinion.
> 









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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 22:58:22 -0500
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: New England Club?


Anyone in this group from the New England area?  Any established clubs?  Events?
 
Please let me know.
 
Jay


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 08:50:43 -0000
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo


Hi Nick,

The original 85mph display will be underneath your sticker.  I assume your
speedo currently has 140/160/170mph or 240kph on it and was re-calibrated
for this set.  I am not sure about new metric stickers.  If yours is showing
240kph then at least you won't need to re-calibrate once you get a new
sticker...

Maybe someone on the list knows of a metric speedo supplier?

Chris Hawes
vin 5255 (170mph DMCH upgrade in mine)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 1:38 AM
Subject: [DML] speedo


>
>
>
> Hi, my current speeedo seems to have a sticker with the numbers on
> it over the face which was bubbling and not quite the same colour as
> the guages next to it anyway..I started to peel it off in case there
> was the original numbers or other numbers underneith it, which there
> wasnt. Does any one have a fix for this or sell new stickers to
> overlay or perferably have a Metric speedo for sale???? Do all the
> speedo's have the numbers stuck on or just some or just mine?
>
> Thanks Nick-sydney 10927





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 08:37:12 -0500
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: New England Club?


There are a few of us scattered around up here (probably more than I
think), but no formal clubs or events for as long as I've been on the
list (5 years).

-Hank
#1619 (Boston area)


On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 22:58:22 -0500, Jason Sisto <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone in this group from the New England area?  Any established clubs?  Events?
> 
> Please let me know.
> 
> Jay
>





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 05:56:48 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Door lock lubricant suggestions wanted


With "tongue in cheek", I would suggest the best system is to install a
remote operated door lock and remote starting system.   I think in about 8
years, I have only removed and reinserted my key a dozen times maybe.  Of
course I have to turn it, but almost never need to insert it and put it back
in.  The key always stays in the ignition.
Murray
Vin: 05962
LIc: DMC-XII






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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 16:10:40 -0000
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins..


Not only the 17000 series have Metric, also the cars how are in 
Saudi Arabia have theme. Like VIN 15933 and the Canadian  VIN 17115.
But how manny D are in Saudi Arabia, no body till now hase any idea? 
Regards Ed Uding
www.dmc-service.nl

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Looking for more information about 17xxx series VIN Deloreans.
> 
> Over the years, the standard belief was that approximately 100
> of the 17xxx series VIN Deloreans were built for the Canadian
> market, but it is unclear where the Canadian (or Metric) series
> of cars starts and ends, and whether cars were "converted back".
> 
> The latest US spec 17xxx series car I have seen was an automatic
> that I viewed this weekend, VIN..17034 and I have an inquiry in
> on VIN..17036 which I also suspect is a US spec 17xxx series car.
> At least 2 cars did not appear to be "converted back" to US spec.
> 
> The earliest Canadian (or Metric) 17xxx series cars that I know 
> of are VIN..17061 (someone on this list) and mine, VIN..17063,
> with the latest Canadian (or Metric) 17xxx series cars being
> VIN..17156 (in series) or VIN..17707 (out of continuous series).
> 
> As for the previous 17xxx series discussion last month, add three
> more to the early 81 style muffler (no exhaust tips) group:
> VIN..17020, VIN..17034 and (most likely) VIN..17036.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 18:07:22 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins..


For what its worth, 17006 has:

-No radio interference plate
-English, not metric instruments
-English fuel label (origional was missing)
-Straight exhaust pipes

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Mike and List,
> 
> Although I have seen the radio interference plate on several later
> 17xxx series cars, I have also seen radio interference plates on
> very late 16xxx cars and on a late 16xxx stripped tub (in person),
> so I'm not sure this plate denotes all Canadian/Metric spec. cars.
> 
> The two early 17xxx VIN cars that I have looked at in person do not
> have the radio interference plate (17020 and 17034) and both have
> standard US instrument clusters.  VIN..17034 was purchased by the
> original owner in March 1983 from a DMC dealer in SE Wisconsin and
> by it's current condition, it is a very safe guess that there were
> no upgrade/update/changes to this car since its original purchase.
> 
> Thanks for the additional info.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.

[moderator snipped it again]





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2004 02:06:46 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Door lock removal?



I think my door lock's internals have failed... peering into the lock
with a good flashlight, all of the bottom tumblers are recessed
without being pushed down.  I'm guessing a spring or something has
broken?  So I'm trying to remove them so I can further look into it,
and probably take it to a locksmith...

How does one remove that lock?!  I couldn't find the process in the
shop manual, but I may be blind.  I have the updated ignition-matched
locks in my earlier VIN car.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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