From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2331
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 10:09 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Automatic Trans Isn't Auto-anything
From: "dandan67" <dandan67_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: "dandan67" <dandan67_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: Konrad Posch <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Re: Automatic Trans Isn't Auto-anything
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

8. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: DMC 24 image
From: "Elias Pierro" <dmc-delorean_at_dml_web.de>

10. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

11. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

12. questions, questions,
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. radio
From: "mojaki1950" <king3_at_dml_aol.com>

14. DeLorean Mid Atlantic Holiday Event
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

15. Re: Re: DMC 24 image
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: Re: DMC 24 image
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: questions, questions,
From: "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com>

18. RE: radio
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. VIN2466 Rides Again
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: radio
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. Re: questions, questions,
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

22. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Auto shipping
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

24. 17000 Vins
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Auto shipping
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 02:28:48 -0000
From: "dandan67" <dandan67_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic Trans Isn't Auto-anything



Hi John,

That is an excellent deal, thanks.

Turns out fuse #13 was just loose in the fusebox (or had oxide on the
pins) - taking it out and reinstalling did the trick.

Thank you to everyone that Emailed me as well as posted their advice
here. This is a really awesome group.

Dan



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Dan and Group,
> The 5% till the end of the year off also includes the labor and parts to
> rebuild or repair the computer governor normally $250.00.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html









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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 02:36:17 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stainless rusting thoughts...



Ok, ur looking at the subject and ur shaking ur heads like crazy.  I 
know stainless doesnt rust.  However, on the list there has been 
mention of steel-wool for cleanining/regraining the body pannels.  
Now the steel wool is not stainless, thus the fibers get ingrained in 
the pannels, and thus the appearance of rust, although there is 
none 'in' the pannels.

However, about 2 weeks ago there was a discussion, i cant even 
remember, working long hours at the office, about stainless and the 
required methods of removing the top layer, oh i know what it was, 
dull stainless and how to make it shine.  The basic answer was that 
stainless creates a protective layer of film on top that is the major 
ingredient of its non-rusting properties.

My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a 
grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the 
DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if you 
sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it, 
would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film 
again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related, 
sorry)

Tom Porter
Maine, USA








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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 04:19:21 -0000
From: "dandan67" <dandan67_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...



Alright, finally something I can chime in on!

The alloying of chromium in SS is largely responsible for this passive
oxide coating (the thin film your associates mentioned) which keeps
atmospheric oxygen from the iron atoms, preventing rust.

Like aluminum, the chrome atoms react readily with the oxygen, and
fast - as you sand the oxide coating off (oxide vs. oxide!), it
reforms on the SS.

Dan





> My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a 
> grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the 
> DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if you 
> sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it, 
> would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film 
> again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related, 
> sorry)
> 
> Tom Porter
> Maine, USA








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:18:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Konrad Posch <icypalmtree_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...


If I remember correctly, it would create a new protective layer as the layer is actually oxidized stainless steel, I think.  So the new top surface shold oxidize and then stick to and protect the rest of the stainless steel.

Tom Porter <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


Ok, ur looking at the subject and ur shaking ur heads like crazy. I 
know stainless doesnt rust. However, on the list there has been 
mention of steel-wool for cleanining/regraining the body pannels. 
Now the steel wool is not stainless, thus the fibers get ingrained in 
the pannels, and thus the appearance of rust, although there is 
none 'in' the pannels.

However, about 2 weeks ago there was a discussion, i cant even 
remember, working long hours at the office, about stainless and the 
required methods of removing the top layer, oh i know what it was, 
dull stainless and how to make it shine. The basic answer was that 
stainless creates a protective layer of film on top that is the major 
ingredient of its non-rusting properties.

My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a 
grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the 
DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability? So if you 
sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it, 
would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film 
again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related, 
sorry)

Tom Porter
Maine, USA








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 21:57:00 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Stainless rusting thoughts...


On the subject of rust. I clean and refurbish a lot of parts before I go to
plating, so I don't use a steel buffing wheel on my 8" bench grinder. I use
brass. Doesn't rust or cause deposits that do. 8" is harder to find but if
you have a 6" it's easy.
Just an FYI
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com






-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Porter [mailto:treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 8:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Stainless rusting thoughts...





Ok, ur looking at the subject and ur shaking ur heads like crazy.  I
know stainless doesnt rust.  However, on the list there has been
mention of steel-wool for cleanining/regraining the body pannels.
Now the steel wool is not stainless, thus the fibers get ingrained in
the pannels, and thus the appearance of rust, although there is
none 'in' the pannels.

However, about 2 weeks ago there was a discussion, i cant even
remember, working long hours at the office, about stainless and the
required methods of removing the top layer, oh i know what it was,
dull stainless and how to make it shine.  The basic answer was that
stainless creates a protective layer of film on top that is the major
ingredient of its non-rusting properties.

My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a
grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the
DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if you
sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it,
would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film
again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related,
sorry)

Tom Porter
Maine, USA








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 07:46:55 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...


Depending on the type of stainless its tendency to rust varies
some types of stainless are better than others.  In our case with the  cars 
it is unlikely that we will ever have to be concerned with rust.
 
Grinding will not diminish the properties and yes you can prep  stainless for 
paint.
 
I used to work for a company that made stainless steel splice closures for  
telephone  lines. These are the ones you see hanging on telephone lines  that 
are shiny (stainless) They also got burried. In certain environments where  
there is ground currents due to acidic or highly alkiline soils it rusts  out 
just like regular steel.  I have seen them reduced to a pile of  rust.
Not often but it does happen. 
 
So Stainless can rust in certain conditions
 
I learned a lot about stainless.  We used 318 stainless. and I have a  whole 
different appreciation for stainless because of it.  Actually it was  part  of 
the reason I bought a D.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 09:14:44 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Re: Automatic Trans Isn't Auto-anything



After you tested the fuse and still have a problem - the let me know, 
I can walk you thru some more tests to make sure that it isn't the 
solenoids.

Elvis & 6548


> > 
> > I've let my D sit for the past 10 months, and much to the credit 
> for
> > Mr. Delorean, it kicked over perfectly today. However, it appears 
> the
> > automatic transmission is stuck in 3rd gear! Acceleration from a
> > complete stop is terrible, though I can get up to 80+ MPH without 
> ever
> > feeling the tranny shift. It does no good to move the shifter 
> into "2"
> > or "1" - no gear shifting takes place.
> > 
> > Anyone have any ideas as to the problem here? I'm not opposed to
> > taking it to the Delorean shop in Garden Grove, CA but I'm a pretty
> > darn good electronics and firmware guy (not to mention a good
> > machinist). So if there is a fundamental problem here, I'd be 
> happy to
> > roll a board with a microcontroller on it to solve the problem for 
> me
> > (and everyone else) - unless it's an actual mechanical issue.
> > 
> > Anyway, just looking for clues and ideas - thanks, everyone!
> > 
> > Dan
> 

-- 
Geschenkt: 3 Monate GMX ProMail + 3 Top-Spielfilme auf DVD
++ Jetzt kostenlos testen http://www.gmx.net/de/go/mail ++





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 13:27:06 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...


No - the cromium oxide forms instantly over any blemish. Aluminium does 
the same thing (with Al oxide)

304 stainless will corrode in certain circumstances. Parking your 
delorean under an asbestos roof for example is a really bad idea. It 
takes the form of pitting which looks like lots of really tiny holes.

Martin

Tom Porter wrote:

>
>My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a 
>grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the 
>DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if you 
>sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it, 
>would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film 
>again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related, 
>sorry)
>
>Tom Porter
>Maine, USA
>
>  
>







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 13:58:06 -0000
From: "Elias Pierro" <dmc-delorean_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: DMC 24 image



Here are more pictures:

http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa2.jpg
http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa4.jpg
http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/33576.jpg



 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jay Gosciniak" <gotojayjay_at_dml_a...> 
 wrote:

 Someone told me that these are what the DMC 24 or the "Family 
 Car"
 was going
 to look like, is this correct? Link:
 http://www47.tok2.com/home/clearblue2/3dcg/dmc-24/ 









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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 07:31:36 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...


Tom,

SS oxidizes differently than iron which rusts..  Sanding it down does 
not change this property.

BOB






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 06:35:10 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...



Tom - To recap the discussion, the stainless steel that is used for 
the DeLorean body panels will develop a new oxide layer if the panel 
is stripped using chemical or physical means.  The creation of this 
layer of chromium oxide isn't instant, but it's fairly quick ... 
Some of you will recognize chromium oxide as a ceramic.  This is 
what forms on the surfaces of austenitic stainless steels in the 
presence of oxygen.  The only way to prevent this layer from forming 
is to seal the surface off from free oxygen using a primer seal coat 
very quickly after stripping (or etching if using chemicals such as 
nitric acid).  I hope that helps - 

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a 
> grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint 
the DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if 
you sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to 
paint it, would it then be able to rust, or would it start to 
develop the film again over time? (more of a stainless question than 
DeLorean related, sorry)









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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 06:46:17 -0800 (PST)
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: questions, questions,


Hello everyone: I'm considering getting a DMC as my
next restoration car project. I've begun ammassing
alot of information, but still have alot of questions,
and welcome any and all input I can get. I could realy
use a mentor to help guide me through my research
phase, as this time, unlike in the past I plan to be
well read, well documented, and knowledgeable when I
start my actual hunt for a DMC to buy within the next
2 years. I've gone to many of the DMC sites, and
downloaded tons of information but I still have
questions;
  I heard that the DMC can use modified Chevy parts,
and whats the story on the Chevy engine conversions?
Something to avoid, when looking at a car with one?
What's the story on the fire problems I keep hearing
about? When I go to look at a car (finally), what
should I watch out for? Are there any easy
modifications I should to do the car straight away
once I get it? Does anyone have a copy of the DMC
repair and service manual they'd be willing to allow
me to download, or disc it to me? Some people I've
talked to say they see DMC's at local auto- auctions,
for around $5,000, is this a worthy place to go shopping?


		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! 
http://my.yahoo.com 
 






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 16:09:17 -0000
From: "mojaki1950" <king3_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: radio



I have a 1982 DeLorean.  The radio will not play or tune in any 
stations.  The antenna, tape player, and the leds on the buttons all 
work.  The read out for the clock and the radio do not work and 
there is a clicking noise when I turn on the radio.  Any help would 
be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!








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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 19:56:30 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: DeLorean Mid Atlantic Holiday Event


DeLorean Mid Atlantic Holiday Event

  DeLorean Mid Atlantic is going to be having an informal holiday get together.  
The plan is to try to get as many DeLoreans as we can together to attend a 
Holiday Parade that is going to be held in Ship Bottom, N.J., which is located 
on Long Beach Island.  The parade is going to be televised locally as well.  The 
parade will take place on Saturday December 4th.  The parade starts at 1pm but 
lineup begins at 11am.  It is better to get to the lineup as early as possible 
as the parade is usually large in size.  The plan will be for us to meet up 
starting at 10:00 am on December 4th.  We will leave the meeting place sharply 
at 11:15 am and proceed to the line up area.  Have your Family Band radios on 
Channel 12. After the parade we will go to a nearby restaurant for an informal 
late lunch.  This will be a one day event basically.  However for those 
interested in coming in Friday there is lodging info below for a motel that is 
only two blocks away from the line up area, and right next to our meeting place 
Saturday.  Also I know some members have expressed interest in coming in Friday 
December 3rd and going to Atlantic City and staying there.  Rates are usually 
cheaper on Friday night and very reasonable.  In any event that is the plan.  
Please email me ASAP to let me know if you plan to attend so I can get an 
idea of how many cars to expect.  Details will be posted on our club website.  Here is the 
tentative itinerary and information.

Saturday December 4th 2004
We will meet starting at 10:00am at the Eckerd Drug Store in Ship Bottom, N.J.  
We will head out at 11:15am SHARP, to the parade line up area two blocks away.  
Bring your Family Band radios and have them on Channel 12. Info about the parade 
can be found at http://www.shipbottom.org/cal.htm 
   Info for the location of the meeting point can be found at www.eckerd.com.
Using their store locator here is the address for those wanting to use 
mapquest.com

Eckerd Drug Store 
819 Barnegat Avenue
Ship Bottom, N.J.  08008

Lodging:
For those interested, here is info for The Quarter Deck Inn Motel.  It is 
located directly next door to the Eckerd Drug Store where we will be meeting.  
The Motel has a nightclub and bar and usually live bands Fri and Sat nights.  
Check out their site for details and directions.

The Quarter Deck Inn
http://www.qdlbi.com/
(609) 494-9044  (reservations)

After the parade at approximately 2:30pm we will head to an informal lunch and 
get together.  There is a Friday’s and an Applebee’s and other nice places to 
eat right near the Garden State Parkway.  After lunch those wishing to can head 
home or to Atlantic City or tour the area.  Info will be provided at lunch.  

Directions:
For those that attended the Fall Tour in 2003 in Wildwood, we will be meeting in 
almost the same area as our first meeting point for that event.  

Coming from the north:  
Take the Garden State Parkway to Exit 63 (Manahawkin and Long Beach Island 
Exit).  Stay to right on Exit Ramp, follow sign for Route 72 East.  Follow Route 
72 East towards Long Beach Island.  You will go through 5 traffic lights and 
come to a bridge.  You will go over a series of 4 bridges.  You will see The 
Quarter Deck Inn Motel as you come over the fourth bridge.  Stay to your left.  
Directly behind The Quarter Deck Inn is the Eckerd Drug Store.  Pull into the 
parking lot.

Coming from the south:
Take the Garden State Parkway to Exit 63.  Follow directions above.

Coming form the west:
Email me for specific directions if you unsure coming from PA or other locations 
west.  If coming from Trenton or Northwest NJ take I-195 East from Trenton to 
Garden State Parkway South.  Follow to Exit 63.  Follow directions above after 
exiting parkway.

Gary Gore
Vice President
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com








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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:02:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC 24 image


Oh look, somebody built it

http://www.bichons.btinternet.co.uk/myxm.jpg

(sorry, that's the best pic I could find side-on. The XM was based on 
the medusa)

Martin

Elias Pierro wrote:

>
>Here are more pictures:
>
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa2.jpg
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa4.jpg
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/33576.jpg
>
>  
>







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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 13:10:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC 24 image


The doors on that car are not gullwing. Very ordinary looking.
 
Chris

Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:


Oh look, somebody built it

http://www.bichons.btinternet.co.uk/myxm.jpg

(sorry, that's the best pic I could find side-on. The XM was based on 
the medusa)

Martin

Elias Pierro wrote:

>
>Here are more pictures:
>
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa2.jpg
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/medusa4.jpg
>http://www.dmc-delorean.de/Bilder/33576.jpg
>
> 
>







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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Yahoo! Groups Links








		
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 Meet the all-new My Yahoo! – Try it today! 

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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:08:53 -0600
From: "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com>
Subject: Re: questions, questions,


>   I heard that the DMC can use modified Chevy parts,
> and whats the story on the Chevy engine conversions?
> Something to avoid, when looking at a car with one?

It has been done, however most would not recommend a conversion due to the
fact that the car is less saleable due to it not being original and of
unknown workmanship. This is a common question that comes across from people
who haven't had the chance to drive one due to low HP the car has, but in my
humble opinion they are speedy enough with out needing a conversion.

I know Rich W. had a lot of issues with ride and dirveability due to the
weight differences, however I would say that the trasmission, specifically
the input shaft has been the week point in many of the conversions. The
extra torque has been known to snap the input shaft on the transmission. The
really nice conversions will replace the DeLorean tranmission with a Porsche
transmission

> What's the story on the fire problems I keep hearing
> about?

I don't think you will find too many here that will deny that DeLoreans have
had some electrical issues, however with the updates (relays, fain fails,
etc.) that this has become mostly a non-issue with the cars. As long as you
make sure your car has the updates and hasn't been hacked by a back yard
mechanic you should be just fine.

>When I go to look at a car (finally), what should I watch out for?

The big one is frame rust, although the body doesn't rust the frame does,
and as you can guess it is a mjor project to replace the frame on a car, as
well as very costly. If you are lucky you could find a replacement frame
from a car being parted out that is in good condition and get one for a few
thousand. Otherwise you are looking at a Piece Design PermaFrame, which is
an awesome product, but it is very pricey. Take a look at this page on the
Pierce web site for what to look for
http://www.pearce-design.com/PFCheckForRust.html

The other thing to look for is modifications to the car, which if you are
not familiar with the car may be tough to identify. However often you will
find a owner in the area who is more knowledgeable who will be more than
willing to assist you in an inspection of the car. Back yard mechanic hacks
can cost quite a bit to undo.

> Are there any easy
> modifications I should to do the car straight away
> once I get it?

Again, get the car updated if it has not been already. Installing a fan fail
module is important as well as checking all of the relays and fuse
compartment. It isn't unusual to find some melting of the fuse box in
DeLoreans, especially when you are looking for a fixer upper. If the car has
been sitting you would want to replace all fluids, and may also be looking
at replacing leaky master and slave cylinders (brake and clutch), as well as
calipers if they have leaked and frozen up which gets costly rather quick.

> Does anyone have a copy of the DMC
> repair and service manual they'd be willing to allow
> me to download, or disc it to me?

Sorry this is something you will have to buy from a vendor but they are
relatively cheap, and well worth the money. Check out
http://www.specialtauto.com for good pricing on the manuals you will need.

> Some people I've
> talked to say they see DMC's at local auto- auctions,
> for around $5,000, is this a worthy place to go shopping?

Any place is worthy of shopping, just be aware of what you are buying. My
first car cost me $5,500 to buy, by the time I finally got it on the road I
had $18K into the car including my initial investment. Some times you can
find a bargain, but be aware that extensive repairs can be needed if a car
has been sitting for many years and the entire fuel system is fouled out and
clogged up. Not to mention dried out seals all around, failed parts due to
sitting, etc. Some times it is better to spend a bit more up front and get a
car whose condition is a bit more known.

If you are up to a challenge, and understand you are going to be spending
several thousand to get the car back on the road then a $5000 car isn't a
bad thing. In my case it was my opportunity to learn about the cars, and
tear one apart which I rather enjoyed.

Mike Polzin






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:23:39 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: radio


Can you hear anything out of the speakers that sounds like a faint station
in the background. Tune around for the strongest. Car radios are not very
sensitive to a weak signal that may be caused by the wire from the antenna
to the radio broken on the inside.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com







-----Original Message-----
From: mojaki1950 [mailto:king3_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 10:09 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] radio





I have a 1982 DeLorean.  The radio will not play or tune in any
stations.  The antenna, tape player, and the leds on the buttons all
work.  The read out for the clock and the radio do not work and
there is a clicking noise when I turn on the radio.  Any help would
be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!








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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 23:00:28 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: VIN2466 Rides Again



Some of you may recall my impulse buy of "barn car" and trailer on my 
way home from Pigeon Forge. It's been a busy summer so it's been 
sitting since. This is a car from South Carolina, 81, Black interior, 
gas flap automatic. Very original, including the fan module and all 6 
struts. It had not run in over 5 years, and based on the title had 
been driven 5000 miles since 1985. Now showing 24500. 

As of today it's running again! It seems that the original cause of 
non-running was probably the starter solenoid, but to get it running 
I've replaced the fuel tank guts, pump, 2 injectors, filter, 
accumulator, and the solenoid. I made it around the block a couple of 
times today (minus front brakes - yeouch) but it runs very well, 
shifts like it's supposed to etc. Now I have the rest of the winter 
(it's supposed to snow tomorrow) to fix the other assortment of age-
related issues (like the brakes). But is sure was nice to hear it 
start and actually drive it!

This will probably go back on the market next spring, so if anyone's 
in the market for a nice restored automatic around then - keep this 
one in mind. Although it seems nice enough so far I may keep it. 








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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 23:36:41 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: radio



Assuming you have a factory radio, it sounds like the tape deck is 
engaged and stuck in auto-reverse, switching back and forth between 
tape heads. (even though you don't have a tape in it now)

When the tape deck is engaged, it cuts out the stereo.

Try popping in a cassette, then ejecting it again to disengage the 
tape deck. Better still, pop a tape in, and hit the auto-reverse a 
few times too.

Assuming you have the Craig stereo and not the ASI, the displays are 
fed by a ribbon cable. They are known to crack after many years of 
being folded over when a cassette is inserted in the player. The fix 
is difficult and requires advanced soldering skills.

Even though the display is out, you should still be able to un-stick 
the tape deck and get it playing again.

Hope this helps,

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mojaki1950" <king3_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 1982 DeLorean.  The radio will not play or tune in any 
> stations.  The antenna, tape player, and the leds on the buttons 
all 
> work.  The read out for the clock and the radio do not work and 
> there is a clicking noise when I turn on the radio.  Any help 
would 
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:21:51 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: questions, questions,



I both disagree and agree with some of Mike's comments.

Actually, Duke and Darryl T. can probably speak better about the
Chevy V6 conversions and any ride or driveability issues, however
my Buick Turbo V6 conversion did have its challenges, but I have not
had issues that I would consider ride or driveability issues.

To my knowledge, Duke is now running a Porsche trans with a custom
bell-housing and Darryl T. is running a Delorean trans with a custom
adapter plate with the stock Delorean bell-housing and a custom
"super-hard" input shaft.  Darryl T.'s Chevy V6 is super-charged.

My Buick Grand National Turbo V6 powered Delorean is running a stock
Delorean trans with a custom bell-housing.  When I acquired the car,
the input shaft was bad, but this was due to incorrect support of the
input shaft at the crank.  Since I have seen a stock Delorean eat up
input shafts if the alignment pins are missing between the trans and
the engine, I believe this mis-alignment is the root cause of most
input shaft failures with engine conversions and NOT due to more HP.

In closing, I would agree with Mike that unknown workmanship and not
knowing the lifespan of parts in a conversion may lower the value.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> >   I heard that the DMC can use modified Chevy parts,
> > and whats the story on the Chevy engine conversions?
> > Something to avoid, when looking at a car with one?
> 
> It has been done, however most would not recommend a conversion 
due to the
> fact that the car is less saleable due to it not being original 
and of
> unknown workmanship. This is a common question that comes across 
from people
> who haven't had the chance to drive one due to low HP the car has, 
but in my
> humble opinion they are speedy enough with out needing a 
conversion.
> 
> I know Rich W. had a lot of issues with ride and dirveability due 
to the
> weight differences, however I would say that the trasmission, 
specifically
> the input shaft has been the week point in many of the 
conversions. The
> extra torque has been known to snap the input shaft on the 
transmission. The
> really nice conversions will replace the DeLorean tranmission with 
a Porsche
> transmission
> 
> snip <








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:26:30 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...



At work it occured to me that etching is almost a requirement to 
painting stainless, not the grinding/sanding, and that is what I 
meant.  Sorry for the confusion. (heavent read the other replys yet)

Tom Porter

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> SS oxidizes differently than iron which rusts..  Sanding it down 
does 
> not change this property.
> 
> BOB








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:31:29 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: Auto shipping


Hi all.. Looking for a reputable, reasonably priced trasnport company to
ship a vehicle or two from GA to CT. anybody have any recommendations?

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 18:20:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 17000 Vins


In Pigeon Forge, I had the pleasure of spending time
with Tom Grippenburg and his wife.  Tom is the owner
of a 17000 vin car, 17168.  He is the original owner
of the car.

While having dinner the first night, Ken Montgomery
(the head concours judge) happen to walk by.  Being my
normal controversial self, I engaged him in a
discussion about the competition.

For those of you who may not know, I am firmly against
the idea of this competition.  For these cars to be
considered "the best of the best" based on the
criteria of being as the factory built them, the
judging manual better be accurate.  You are fooling
around with the value of someones property.

Back to my story;  When I specifically questioned Ken
about the tail pipe issue on the 17000 cars, his
response was that the 83 cars were "parts cars".  I
like Ken, but thought this was an insensitive thing to
say.  

Tom Grippenburg's car is by far the best original
DeLorean I have ever seen.  It was leaked out that
Tom's car might have been first place at the Cleveland
show, but after Stephen decided to deduct the points
for his 81 tail pipes, he did not place.  James
informed Tom that if he wanted to win in any future
DMCH event, he would need to change his muffler.  Is
it a coincidence that the winning car happen to be one
restored by DMCH?  I believe this car later sold for a
lot of money, so there is a more at stake in this
competition than a trophy.

After some discussion with Tom he thinks that the
17000 cars may have been built earlier than they were
tagged.  After the cars sat, they were re tagged to be
sold as newer cars (1983).  To back this up, it has
been noted that the dashboard VIN tag is glued, and
not riveted as it is in all of the earlier cars.

A good way to verify this would be to include engine
serial numbers and frame serial numbers in the
Production Chronology, this way we would have a better
idea in what order the cars rolled off the line.  It
is a good bet that we will see the 17000 cars were
built earlier than their VIN plates say.  That would
explain why they have the older style muffler. It
would also confirm that these cars were built in the
factory and are not "parts cars".

Based on seeing the engine assemblies with mufflers at
KPAC, I assume the mufflers were attached to the
engine assembly when it was installed in the car, so
the engine serial number sequence may validate the
muffler goes with the engine.

I have discovered that this whole competition has
succeeded in alienating many original owners from
participating in events and competitions.  I have been
told that it is frustrating to be an original owner
who followed the history of the car from the beginning
to be told by a "new comer" that their car is a "parts
car".

Also, for some reason Tom thinks there were 112 cars
in the 17000 series that were build for Canada. Maybe
some of the documents stolen from Michael Pack contain
this data?





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 18:40:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Auto shipping


Jeff, I used Passport Transport to ship my DeLorean from VA to DMC(Texas). They use an enclosed carrier and double stack the cars on lifts inside. I found cheaper carriers but they were open and I did not want to chance the car being hauled with the louvers pointing forward at some point on the trip. Most carriers will move your car around as they drop off and add vehicles along the way. As I recall the shipping charge was about $1000. The driver who picked up my car was a real pro and I highly recomend the carrier to anyone shipping a DeLorean. If I were shipping a less exotic vehicle, I would probably use an open air carrier. I got prices for the Texas trip from a couple of them for $350-$500. I have no regrets spending a little extra, the car got to Texas in the same condition as when it left VA. My car was the last one to fill the carrier and it joined a 50s Corvette, a 20s Rolls-Royce a Porsche race car and several others that I cant recall. I shipped the car  about three and a
 half years ago and the destination was about 1200 miles.  Rod
Jeff Chabotte <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net> wrote:

Hi all.. Looking for a reputable, reasonably priced trasnport company to
ship a vehicle or two from GA to CT. anybody have any recommendations?

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
http://www.88-mph.com 






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