From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2333
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 1:46 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

2. Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: 17000 Vins
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. RE: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Cannonball/Gumball question (James Espey?)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

6. RE: 17000 Vins
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

7. Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

8. Transporters
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

10. Re: Auto shipping
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: New England Club?
From: "Tony Patti" <ajpatti_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. Re: Cannonball/Gumball question (James Espey?)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Re: radio
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

14. Lower Control Arm Failure
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

15. A smile on my face...
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Concours
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Cars sitting at DMC factory
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Stuttering clutch
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

21. Re: radio
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

22. Re: Cars sitting at DMC factory
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

23. Concours
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Tom's 17168 and Concours 2000 ( was Re: 17000 Vins)
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

25. Fuel Filter question
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:30:32 -0800
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover


> Does anyone have a source for stainless M7 hex bolts of various
> lengths?  I'd rather use them for my timing gear cover/valve covers
> than put the original rusty ones back in.  I suppose I could purchase
> new plated ones, but eventually these rust as well when the plating
> wears off.  

Ordinarily, I'd recommend McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com), as they're a phenomenal source of all sorts of industrial stuff, but I don't see M7 in stainless.  They do have 9 lengths of M7 hex cap screws if you can live with 8.8 steel.  I'd give them a call anyway -- if anyone can source these, they can.

-Owen





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 23:22:30 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless rusting thoughts...


Tom,
304 stainless can indeed rust, but not the way you're talking about. Sanding
the stainless will not cause it to rust. I saw a DeLorean that spent a few
years under a car cover outside. The result? Pitted stainless all over the
car. Some parts were even pitted so badly, it had holes in it! It's
basically a corrosion of the stainless. And it can happen to any DeLorean if
not cared for properly.

---Evil Dan





Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 02:36:17 -0000
From: "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stainless rusting thoughts...



Ok, ur looking at the subject and ur shaking ur heads like crazy.  I
know stainless doesnt rust.  However, on the list there has been
mention of steel-wool for cleanining/regraining the body pannels.
Now the steel wool is not stainless, thus the fibers get ingrained in
the pannels, and thus the appearance of rust, although there is
none 'in' the pannels.

However, about 2 weeks ago there was a discussion, i cant even
remember, working long hours at the office, about stainless and the
required methods of removing the top layer, oh i know what it was,
dull stainless and how to make it shine.  The basic answer was that
stainless creates a protective layer of film on top that is the major
ingredient of its non-rusting properties.

My question is, when a person grinds the top layer off, with a
grinder or major sanding, as when a person would do this to paint the
DeLorean body, does it now loose its rust-proof ability?  So if you
sanded the stainless to that point, and then decided not to paint it,
would it then be able to rust, or would it start to develop the film
again over time? (more of a stainless question than DeLorean related,
sorry)

Tom Porter
Maine, USA





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 05:22:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 17000 Vins



The concours judging DOES mean a whole lot more than a trophy! A car
Marque is valued at what a concours #1 condition example is worth.
Like in a concours all cars are valued at what a #1 condition is worth
and dollars (like points) are deducted for deviations from #1
condition. For the lucky few that do have a concours car they will be
at the top of the heap. For cars in less than # 1 condition their cars
will be valued somewhat less. In many ways the concours will help all
owners as there will be a benchmark against which all Deloreans can be
judged. The higher the value of a #1 concours winner the higher the
values of ALL Deloreans. Of course for any particular Delorean it's
value will be determined by how closely (or how far) it measures up
against a #1 car. We can argue about the 83's and what exactly an 83
should consist of. Unfortunatly the records that could help are long
gone so it is a subjective call as to what is "correct". Since no club
runs a concours it is left to DMCH to do it. Better them than no one.
I believe that if you really feel this strongly about concours than
you shoule push for a local club to hold a concours and you can
participate in making your own rules. Concours is not for every owner
but every owner has a stake in how they are conducted. It is just that
there is so little interest in a concours it is hard to justify all
the work it would take for a local club to do it. At the last concours
there were not enough cars to judge. Correct me if I am wrong but
there were only 3 cars. In such a case all 3 would place no matter
what the condition. I would add a rule that for a Concours to be held
there must be at least 6 cars to be judged and the top 3 must fall
within a 10 point spread for the top 3 for the concours to be
legitamite. Without this rule you could have a first place 80 point
car, a 2nd place 60 point car and a 3rd place 40 point car. This makes
a mockery of anyone that had won an earlier concours, the first place
would not measure up to a previous 1st place winner and so on for 2nd
and 3rd. Of course all this is just My Humble Opinion. BTW I don't
like the idea that you could "modify" a car and make it "correct". If
a car has one type of tailpipe then they should not be changed unless
you know for sure that they were changed to the incorrect ones in the
past. Ditto for the hood, antennae, and the many other things that
differentiate one car from another. An origional owner (if he is
honest) knows what the origional condition of HIS car was. Of course
there is no way for him to know if the dealer did anything BEFORE he
bought it! 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> In Pigeon Forge, I had the pleasure of spending time
> with Tom Grippenburg and his wife.  Tom is the owner
> of a 17000 vin car, 17168.  He is the original owner
> of the car.
> 
> While having dinner the first night, Ken Montgomery
> (the head concours judge) happen to walk by.  Being my
> normal controversial self, I engaged him in a
> discussion about the competition.
> 
> For those of you who may not know, I am firmly against
> the idea of this competition.  For these cars to be
> considered "the best of the best" based on the
> criteria of being as the factory built them, the
> judging manual better be accurate.  You are fooling
> around with the value of someones property.
> 









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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:14:11 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover


Owen, With out having them made and going to that expense I plated 7mm in
bright Zinc as seen on my engine page. Look at the top image of the cover
up. What size do you need. Measure in MM from under the head to the end.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html






-----Original Message-----
From: Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome [mailto:owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us]
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 10:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing
Gear Cover




> Does anyone have a source for stainless M7 hex bolts of various
> lengths?  I'd rather use them for my timing gear cover/valve covers
> than put the original rusty ones back in.  I suppose I could purchase
> new plated ones, but eventually these rust as well when the plating
> wears off.

Ordinarily, I'd recommend McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com), as they're a
phenomenal source of all sorts of industrial stuff, but I don't see M7 in
stainless.  They do have 9 lengths of M7 hex cap screws if you can live with
8.8 steel.  I'd give them a call anyway -- if anyone can source these, they
can.

-Owen





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 07:57:58 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cannonball/Gumball question (James Espey?)



Player's Run is so expensive, because they pay for all lodging, meals,
and various other entertainment. Me personally, I've no trouble
sleeping in my car, but if we were to have a long enough event which
required some sort of loging, a Motel 6, or some other low priced
motel would suit me just fine.

The purpose of a cannon ball is to have a time trial, with certain
checkpoints along the way, if appropriate. There would be no caravan.
Everyone would leave at 5 minute intervals, and would punch cards for
their start, and ending times. No individual cars would travel
together. Race routes can be specific, but it's not nessisary. If you
know a short cut in the city, then by all means, take it. Open
highways are a different story, if there are no alternative roads, of
course.

Required equipment would simply be a road-worthy car, and a small fee
to organize the event. Recomeneded equipment would include scanners,
GPS/Laptops, cell phones (communications & internet access), radar
detector, and maybe a cellphone jammer, aside from a passenger to act
as a navigator. And of corse, a visit to this site wouldn't hurt in
planning.

http://www.speedtrap.org/

The only problem with organizing something like this, is geography.
Not only are DeLorean owners sparse around here, but even rarer would
be ones that would want to participate in this kind of an event. And
then, we'd have to figure out a origin, AND destination that everyone
would be able to drive to. For example, if you were to have people
from California, and Arizona do a rally to DCS, they would only be
able to go from Phoenix to Chicago, as that would be the only common
meeting points that everyone could hit, according to their routes.

Next summer, I plan on having my car ready for one ralley that
coincides with a convention here, and goes from Los Angeles, and Las
Vegas in August. So that'll be a nice event for me to cut my teeth on,
and it's on a road that I'm familiar with, I-15.

Like I said, this wouldn't be a caravan. This would be a competetive
race against the clock, and other participants. The only question here
is who wants to race, and where do we all want to go?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Maybe someone would want to organize something like this either before
> or directly after the next DCS in Chicago?  If we did it right after
> the show ended we would all have a chance to get the D's together, and
> whoever wanted to get in on this "race" or "cannonball" could all
> leave in one big group.  I am sure there are some other sports car
> clubs in Chicago who would be game for something like this as well.  I
> think Robert has an interesting idea here, and it sure beats the
> $13,000 price tag of the Player's Run.
> 
> Patrick
> 1880








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:11:07 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: RE: 17000 Vins


     What I said (only to you) Marc, was that 'the 83's might not
actually be 'real' DeLoreans because they were built by the holding
company from the left over parts'. And why did I say that? Because you
were being rude and I knew it would upset you. You were openly
belittling the Concours to everyone and I want to see steam come out
your ears. I don't actually believe the 83's are any less of a DeLorean
than the 81's and 82's.

The Concours is of extreme importance to many of the owners and I had
worked hard to make sure that the judging manual was updated and that
the judging would go smoothly. I didn't at all like to hear my work and
that of my very dedicated crew was being scorned so loudly. I think that
was very insensitive of YOU.

And David Teitelbaum said, like it or not, the value of the cars is set
by what is considered a 100 point car. A standard is needed, especially
as the cars become more and more rebuilt from aftermarket parts.

The 83's are always hard to judge because there was no set standard for
them. You have to draw a line in the sand somewhere, and the surviving
factory documentation is it. 

Ken
(owner of an 82 'Kapac' car)
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery, Sacramento CA - VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
=======================================================


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2004 6:20 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] 17000 Vins
> 
> 
> 
> In Pigeon Forge, I had the pleasure of spending time
> with Tom Grippenburg and his wife.  Tom is the owner
> of a 17000 vin car, 17168.  He is the original owner
> of the car.
> 
> While having dinner the first night, Ken Montgomery
> (the head concours judge) happen to walk by.  Being my
> normal controversial self, I engaged him in a
> discussion about the competition.
> 
> For those of you who may not know, I am firmly against
> the idea of this competition.  For these cars to be
> considered "the best of the best" based on the
> criteria of being as the factory built them, the
> judging manual better be accurate.  You are fooling
> around with the value of someones property.
> 
> Back to my story;  When I specifically questioned Ken
> about the tail pipe issue on the 17000 cars, his
> response was that the 83 cars were "parts cars".  I
> like Ken, but thought this was an insensitive thing to
> say.  

<<SNIP>>





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 09:12:20 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover


Stainless bolts for the timing chain cover ?

My bolts are 23 years old and not rusty. Maybe they were dirty but not
rusty. And if I had to replace them I'd never use stainless there.
I know this discussion has been up before, but stainless and aluminum
is a faux pas ! You could convince me for the exhaust manifolds but
not for the rest of the bolts on the engine.

Elvis & 6548
 
> 
> Does anyone have a source for stainless M7 hex bolts of various
> lengths?  I'd rather use them for my timing gear cover/valve covers
> than put the original rusty ones back in.  I suppose I could purchase
> new plated ones, but eventually these rust as well when the plating
> wears off.  
> 
> BTW, some of you may remember I posted at the beginning of this month
> that my timing gear cover was leaking.  This occurred after I had
> filled up the oil a few months after replacing the lower crankcase. 
> Apparently the gasket between the timing gear cover and the lower
> crankcase failed to re-seal, and that is where the oil leak was coming
> from.  It was very much a bear to remove the old gasket from the
> timing gear cover, and even with the aid of a spinning wire brush, I
> must have easily spent over an hour getting it all off.  Powdercoating
> is on the way, as long as I don't ruin any main engine grounds in the
> process :)  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 

-- 
Geschenkt: 3 Monate GMX ProMail + 3 Top-Spielfilme auf DVD
++ Jetzt kostenlos testen http://www.gmx.net/de/go/mail ++





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 06:05:35 EST
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Transporters


Re: Car Transporters
I have shipped with Passport, Reliable Carriers, Newman Int'l and Horseless 
Carriage. Each of them several times. They are all enclosed specialty car 
transporters, they are all reputable, and expensive. You asked for one that is 
reasonably priced. The price is partially dependent upon your level of patience, 
the more time you have the cheaper it is. If they have a run between your 
points with open space, it's reasonable. If you demand a "Hot Shot" run, hold onto 
your wallet. Try Reliable Carriers first, they have the biggest fleet and are 
generally very accommodating.
Passport is the most expensive, and generally like the rest of FedEx, about 
as inflexible as the government. Try these links, and good luck.
Remember: Buying a DeLorean is Cheap. Owning a DeLorean is not!
http://www.reliable-carriers.com
http://passport.fedex.com
http://www.horselesscarriage.com/default.htm

Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
#3356 & #15779



In a message dated 11/23/04 11:24:08 PM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:
> 
> Hi all.. Looking for a reputable, reasonably priced transport company to
> ship a vehicle or two from GA to CT. anybody have any recommendations?
> 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:18:17 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover



Matt,
We get all our 7mm bolts from Fastenal. The upside is they can get 
just about get any length you need, down side you have to buy in 
quantity of 50-100 pieces. Fastenal has local location throughout 
the country and a website. But if that isnt to your likeing support 
a vendor.
Best of luck
Sean 








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 09:24:10 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Auto shipping


Try www.tgal.us

They've shipped probably 9/10ths of DeLoreasn that have come to the UK 
in the last 3 years. They do inland transportation as well.

Martin

Jeff Chabotte wrote:

>Hi all.. Looking for a reputable, reasonably priced trasnport company to
>ship a vehicle or two from GA to CT. anybody have any recommendations?
>
>-Jeff Chabotte
>Norwich, CT
>http://www.88-mph.com 
>







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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 07:54:30 -0500
From: "Tony Patti" <ajpatti_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: New England Club?


I live in New Hampshire and would be glad to join a New England club.

Tony Patti
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 10:19 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] New England Club?


>
> I work in Prov. and live in MA. I am also willing to start getting
together with other Delorean owners.  My brother manages a motel in
Westerly, RI, on the beach, next to the CT border & Foxwoods and if we get
enough DeLorean owners together, I am willing to host a get together next
summer.  I own three Deloreans and my cousin has one.  I also have another
friend who owns one as well.  The more owners the better!!   Let me know if
anyone is interested.
>
> JS
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Jeff Chabotte [mailto:jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net]
> Sent: Wed 11/17/2004 4:25 PM
> To: Jason Sisto
> Cc:
> Subject: RE: [DML] New England Club?
>
>
>
> > I'm from CT, No Delorean yet, just an enthusiast waiting for a good
> > time.
>
> > -Jeff Chabotte
> > Norwich, CT
> > http://www.88-mph.com
>
> [duplicate quote removed by moderator]
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:11:46 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Cannonball/Gumball question (James Espey?)



I want to thank everyone for their inputs. All of my questions have 
been answered.

I don't know how or when, but I think we should get something 
started. I don't necessarily think it should be limited to DeLoreans 
either but that's a later topic.

All of these websites I'm finding are for Europeans. Why should they 
have all the fun?

Rich A.
#5335
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Maybe someone would want to organize something like this either 
before
> or directly after the next DCS in Chicago?  If we did it right after
> the show ended we would all have a chance to get the D's together, 
and
> whoever wanted to get in on this "race" or "cannonball" could all
> leave in one big group.  I am sure there are some other sports car
> clubs in Chicago who would be game for something like this as 
well.  I
> think Robert has an interesting idea here, and it sure beats the
> $13,000 price tag of the Player's Run.
> 
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> > After seeing this video, and meeting the two guys from the 
> > Teckademics crew at SEMA, (really down to earth BTW), I've been 
> > wanting to race my car ever since. I have a copy of the "Gold 
> > Portfolio" that mentions Steven Wynn did this for owners in 
> > California for an event call the "Into the Night" ralley. It 
would be 
> > nice to have something like this, but how many other owners here 
> > would be interested? Remember, this would be racing, and not a 
tour, 
> > or a caravan.
> > 
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 06:00:59 -0500
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: radio


I've had the issue of clicking on another tape deck when the drive belt for the tape 
gears falls off or breaks.  The head will continually disengage and re-engage until it 
is replaced.  Unfortunately the loss of the radio portion could be anything electronic 
or a broken antenna perhaps.

Good luck,
Todd


On 23 Nov 2004 at 16:09, mojaki1950 wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> I have a 1982 DeLorean.  The radio will not play or tune in any 
> stations.  The antenna, tape player, and the leds on the buttons all 
> work.  The read out for the clock and the radio do not work and 
> there is a clicking noise when I turn on the radio.  Any help would 
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:18:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Lower Control Arm Failure


Hi,
Just wanted to let the list know off a little problem
I recently had in my DeLorean.I was backing into my
driveway a few weeks ago and heard a VERY load bang
from the front suspension and found that the front
left lower control arm had a 3 inch crack in it.It
cracked between the ball joint and the hole for the
sway bar.The outer part of the arm near the wheel had
actually twisted and the wheel had a definate case of
too much camber!
After removing the arm from the car I found it to be
extremely rusty to the point where the weld around the
hole for the sway bar had almost completely rusted
away and it was all bent and damaged where it had been
hitting the frame.
I was able to find a shop that specialises in
suspension for race cars who were able to repair and
strenghten the arm.They welded in several plates to
make it alot stronger than before.They laughed when
they saw the DeLorean's control arm.They couldn't
believe a sports car would have such a shocking
quaility control arm.I took the other arm out too so
they had a comparison for the other one since it was
pretty mangled.They x-rayed it and found out it also
had a large crack in it which would have led to it
failing eventually too.
The plus side to this was I was able to do a thorough
inspection of the front end of the car while I had it
dissasembled.I found both my lower ball joints were
stuffed as well.
I think we may see more of these sorts of failures as
the cars get older.Next time you or your mechanic have
your car of the ground it wouldn't hurt just to do a
quick visual inspection of the control arms to make
sure they look okay.
My car is an 81 with 102,000 miles.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney




		
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:21:34 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: A smile on my face...



Hard work pays off I guess.

Driving home from work yesterday, I took a more fun route with 
winding roads. The off-ramp from the highway was unexpectedly backed 
up and I had to lay on the brakes and pull right to avoid hitting the 
guy in front of me.

I'm reaching to turn the stereo down, and out of the corner of my 
eye, I see and hear a car pull up next to me (on a single lane 
offramp). I'm thinking "Does this jackass think he's cutting in front 
of me?"

I look over and it's an immaculate '86 Ferrari 328 GTS and the driver 
is going nuts over my car. "Your car is great! I love it!"

I consider that to be a qualified compliment.

Funny how we were just talking about the Cannonball Run. The car 
reminded me of the Ferrari that Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin drove.

Rich A.
#5335










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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:34:12 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover


I have stainless bolts in all sizes and lengths 
They can be purchased from local machine screw supply companies
I use Patriot as my supplier and they can get about 95% of what I need 
The 7mm studs for the exhausts are about the only thing they have not found  
for me yet
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 15:43:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Source for stainless M7 bolts? Also Leaking Timing Gear Cover



7mm stainless is very difficult to find ready made. That's why Rob
Grady had his 7mm stainless studs custom made. 7mm carbon is
relatively common, but not stainless.

Plus you have the issue of potential electolysis (stainless welding
itself to the aluminum block in the presence of moisture).

I'd recommend buying 7mm stainless nuts still available from Fastenal
(Part #MN2570000A20000, 25 cents apiece) and either:
- Install on carbon studs (that's what I did for my exhaust)
- Install on Rob's stainless studs, length and cost permitting
This would also work for the valve covers. Electolysis wouldn't be an
issue because studs never leave the block or heads. Can't replace
intake manifold bolts with studs due to mounting angles. Could replace
Y pipe's however.

BTW: My water pump is held to the block with 8x1.25mm stainless nuts
on stainless studs. I have every intention of making its future
replacement a 15-30 minute chore (original PRV carbureted intake
manifold comes off in 2-3 minutes -- that's why the engine was
designed with a Valley of Death).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a source for stainless M7 hex bolts of various
> lengths?  I'd rather use them for my timing gear cover/valve covers
> than put the original rusty ones back in.  I suppose I could purchase
> new plated ones, but eventually these rust as well when the plating
> wears off.  
> 
> BTW, some of you may remember I posted at the beginning of this month
> that my timing gear cover was leaking.  This occurred after I had
> filled up the oil a few months after replacing the lower crankcase. 
> Apparently the gasket between the timing gear cover and the lower
> crankcase failed to re-seal, and that is where the oil leak was coming
> from.  It was very much a bear to remove the old gasket from the
> timing gear cover, and even with the aid of a spinning wire brush, I
> must have easily spent over an hour getting it all off.  Powdercoating
> is on the way, as long as I don't ruin any main engine grounds in the
> process :)  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 06:16:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Concours



--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
 
> The concours judging DOES mean a whole lot more than
> a trophy! A car

Yes, that is what I said in my post.

> Marque is valued at what a concours #1 condition
> example is worth.

Unfortunately, yes.  Very deceptive to someone looking
to buy a DeLorean.

<SNIP>

> but every owner has a stake in how they are
> conducted. It is just that
> there is so little interest in a concours it is hard
> to justify all
> the work it would take for a local club to do it. At

Good point!  Since there are not enough people to
justify the competition, don't do it at all.

> the last concours
> there were not enough cars to judge. Correct me if I
> am wrong but
> there were only 3 cars. In such a case all 3 would

Yes, you are wrong. Only 2 cars were in the Pigeon
Forge competition.  

<SNIP>



		
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 15:55:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cars sitting at DMC factory



I'm pretty sure my car spent time into 1982 sitting unfinished
somewhere in Dunmurry because it has late model pull straps built into
the door panels. There's no reason to believe a PO replaced them.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (Oct 81)

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> After some discussion with Tom he thinks that the
> 17000 cars may have been built earlier than they were
> tagged.  After the cars sat, they were re tagged to be
> sold as newer cars (1983).  To back this up, it has
> been noted that the dashboard VIN tag is glued, and
> not riveted as it is in all of the earlier cars.
> 
> A good way to verify this would be to include engine
> serial numbers and frame serial numbers in the
> Production Chronology, this way we would have a better
> idea in what order the cars rolled off the line.  It
> is a good bet that we will see the 17000 cars were
> built earlier than their VIN plates say.  That would
> explain why they have the older style muffler. It
> would also confirm that these cars were built in the
> factory and are not "parts cars".
> 
> Based on seeing the engine assemblies with mufflers at
> KPAC, I assume the mufflers were attached to the
> engine assembly when it was installed in the car, so
> the engine serial number sequence may validate the
> muffler goes with the engine.
> 









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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:12:26 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Stuttering clutch



I've got a problem with my clutch.

When I shift into gear and release the clutch, I get a hard vibration that
shakes the car. If I shift and let the RPMs wind down and then release, it's
ok. It also works ok if I give it extra RPMs and release very slowly.

You think my clutch fork is bent or maybe I have a hard spot on the clutch
disk? Any thoughts?





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 16:25:52 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: radio



I had this same problem with the ASI radio in my 1982 (#10570) and it
turned out to be a that one of the inline fuses behind the radio had a
broken fuse holder. I spliced in a new fuseholder from Radio Shack and
then all was well.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mojaki1950" <king3_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 1982 DeLorean.  The radio will not play or tune in any 
> stations.  The antenna, tape player, and the leds on the buttons all 
> work.  The read out for the clock and the radio do not work and 
> there is a clicking noise when I turn on the radio.  Any help would 
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:10:29 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cars sitting at DMC factory



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure my car spent time into 1982 sitting unfinished
> somewhere in Dunmurry because it has late model pull straps built 
into
> the door panels. There's no reason to believe a PO replaced them.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939 (Oct 81)

You, and me both. Build date shows Nov. 81, but wasn't first sold 
until June 20th, 1982. I have the same door straps, console clock, 
and Craig radio.

A nice little thing that I ran across was when I called the 
California DMV last Friday. It appears that they have records for my 
car in their system, that date back 10 years. And, they can provide 
microfiche copies of other records as well. Turns out that my car has 
twice been registered to two seperate corporations.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:37:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Concours



--- "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu> wrote:
 
>      What I said (only to you) Marc, was that 'the
> 83's might not
> actually be 'real' DeLoreans because they were built
> by the holding
> company from the left over parts'. And why did I say
> that? Because you
> were being rude and I knew it would upset you. You
> were openly
> belittling the Concours to everyone and I want to
> see steam come out
> your ears. I don't actually believe the 83's are any
> less of a DeLorean
> than the 81's and 82's.

It did not upset me, but it did upset others.  All of
my DeLoreans are 1981 model, and the pleasure I get
from them is unaffected by what any self-appointed
authority thinks of it.

The topic of DeLorean judging is one that will likely
never make steam come out of my ears.

> The Concours is of extreme importance to many of the
> owners and I had
> worked hard to make sure that the judging manual was
> updated and that
> the judging would go smoothly. I didn't at all like
> to hear my work and
> that of my very dedicated crew was being scorned so
> loudly. I think that
> was very insensitive of YOU.

If you put yourself in such a visible role, you should
be prepared for criticism.

I do publicly apologize to you Ken.  It did not occur
to me that my anti-concours discussions would be taken
personally by anyone involved.  Maybe I need to
include a disclaimer in all of my potentially
controversial discussions that I intend no personal
malice.  Who am I kidding, everything I say is
controversial!

(Yes Ken K, I am getting an early start for the
dunking booth in 2006.  Maybe we can cover the entire
cost of 2008 with the profits?  LOL)

<SNIP>
> 
> Ken
> (owner of an 82 'Kapac' car)

Are 82's "Kapac" too??  I thought just the 83's?


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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:45:01 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Tom's 17168 and Concours 2000 ( was Re: 17000 Vins)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> In Pigeon Forge, I had the pleasure of spending time
> with Tom Grippenburg and his wife.  Tom is the owner
> of a 17000 vin car, 17168.  He is the original owner
> of the car.
> 
(SNIP)
>
> Tom Grippenburg's car is by far the best original
> DeLorean I have ever seen.  It was leaked out that
> Tom's car might have been first place at the Cleveland
> show, but after Stephen decided to deduct the points
> for his 81 tail pipes, he did not place.

I went back and looked at the judging sheets from this event, and
Tom's car scored a 278 out of 300. That was 4th place out of six cars.
 The third place car was 280.5 (Don Gowler), 2.5 points away from
placing. The deduction for the exhaust was 2 pts. Even if he HAD been
given the points for the exhaust, he still would have gotten 4th place.

> James informed Tom that if he wanted to win in any future
> DMCH event, he would need to change his muffler.

I don't recall telling him that, but what I *would* tell him today,
and think more likely that I would have told him then was that if he
wanted to NOT lose the 2 points for the exhaust, it needed to be changed. 

All the competitors had copies of the manual well prior to the event.
If they chose not to read it or thought that the rules wouldn't apply
to them, I can't help that. 

> Is it a coincidence that the winning car happen to be one
> restored by DMCH?  I believe this car later sold for a
> lot of money, so there is a more at stake in this
> competition than a trophy.

5.75 points separated the top three finishers in the 2000 event, so it
shows that details matter. Questioning the outcome impugns the
credibility of the judges (Mike Substelny, Knut Grimsrud, Bill
Swilley, Ken Montgomery, Patti Substelny and Marty Maier) and deserves
an apology. 

With the permission of the competitors in that event, I am happy to
release the judging sheets of each of them in any forum or medium to
which they will consent.
 
> After some discussion with Tom he thinks that the
> 17000 cars may have been built earlier than they were
> tagged.  After the cars sat, they were re tagged to be
> sold as newer cars (1983).  To back this up, it has
> been noted that the dashboard VIN tag is glued, and
> not riveted as it is in all of the earlier cars.

There's no question that the 17000 VIN's were built much earlier than
the date on the door plate. The best indicator, I think, is to look
under the headliners. It would not surprise me to see the number 12168
written under the door and a date of sometime in Feb 1982. Removing
the glued on VIN plate will show the pop-rivet holes where the
original VIN plate was attached.

James Espey
http://www.delorean.com









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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:56:05 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter question



I need to change my fuel filter and I was wondering if there is an 
easy way to get to it, how do i go about changing it, and should I 
wait until i'm out of gas to do it?

Japheth VIN: 1223








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