From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2351
Date: Saturday, December 04, 2004 2:23 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean efficiency
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: oil discussion
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: DeLorean efficiency
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: just stuff
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

7. Re: fascias for sale...
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: NC get together
From: "Noah Smith" <noahsmith_nc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Lucas
From: Dave Kaplan <dkaplan_at_dml_steffeninc.com>

12. An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Re: Dielectric Grease
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Improving DeLo Exhaust
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Data on oil
From: "nitrousgarageworks" <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Re: Dielectric Grease
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. fascias for sale...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

20. AW: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

21. What is it?
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. RE: Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 05:37:24 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: DeLorean efficiency


I'm not sure what you mean by efficiency.  It seems that you are equating
1hp to 1mph to determine your ratio.  This is not a typical measurement.
Normally, engine (or drivetrain) efficiency is a ratio of the hp delivered
to the energy contained in the fuel burned.

The amount of horsepower necessary to move a car at a certain speed
is determined primarily by aerodynamics and rolling friction.  Torque gets 
you to the desired speed, horsepower keeps you there.  The more torque
you have, the faster you can accelerate.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> To pharaphrase GMC, Not more than you need, just 'less' than your use 
> to. Over the last couple of weeks people on the list have been 
> stating comparisons of what DeLorean made in the 60's (muscle cars) 
> and his own version in the early 80's. And then there were some 
> comparisons to the 81 DMC and new cars of today. And then there were 
> posts about how stupid it is comparing technology of different 
> decades, and differnt restrictions and regulations of the different 
> eras. 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 06:29:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30



Are you sure you weren't having the imfamous DeLo oil pressure gauge
problem? Did the low oil pressure light come on as well? (Have never
heard any complaints Re: that particular sender -- must be common to
other successful PRV applications). What exactly were the symptoms
from the engine? Even though the PRV doesn't have lifters to pump up,
you should have heard clattering from the rest of the valve train. Too
thin oil also leads to loss of compression from cylinder side walls.

50 weight oil is really made for extremely high heat environments,
like auto racing. Super and turbo charging may also require it. Can't
imagine any benefit in a normally aspirated engine unless internal
wear is extremely bad.

BTW: oil pump itself doesn't create pressure. It simply moves the oil.
Pressure is created by restriction of oil passages, bearing
clearances, etc. Replacing the pump won't help if pressure is being
lost elsewhere in the engine. PRV adds a new wrinkle with its oil
driven timing chain tensioners -- in their outmost position oil will
leak past them and drop straight back into the pan, leading to a loss
of pressure.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Scott McMullan <smcmullan_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> And when I tried running 10w30 in my Delorean, I had no end of trouble
> with my oil pressure, unce the engine was run for about 30 minutes. 
> Switched back to 20w50 and haven't had a bit of trouble since.
> 
> I seem to be the only one reporting this particular problem, so maybe
> I need a new oil pump, but a case of oil will keep me on the road for
> now.








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 01:37:08 EST
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: oil discussion


I have read in the last few days much talk about oil in the Delorean. I  have 
owned my car since '82 and the only oil I have ever used is 5 w 50  
synthetic, at first Mobile 1 and in the last few years Castrol I have had no and  I 
mean no problems at all with oil pressure and no problem of any kinds with the  
engine of the car, of course being a Delorean everything else has been 
replaced,  ok I still have the same set of keys but that's about it. I use synthetic 
oil in  ever motor I owe including my lawn mower, great stuff.
Andy 3513


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 07:22:56 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)



Andy - Bosch originally developed the Platinum +2 for small general 
aviation aircraft to increase reliability and avoid fouling.  
Obviously, the plugs are far more important in an airplane than a 
car from a safety standpoint.  What they found is that the specific 
conditions of the ground prongs were constantly changing as 
combustion chamber swirl, carbon build-up, and other factors entered 
in.  The spark would jump first to one prong, and then the other.  
It was unlikely that both would fail at once, leading to complete 
failure of the plug.  Then, under the theory that "more is better", 
they added another pair of prongs.  However, the spark only jumps to 
one prong on any one firing cycle.  Is it dramatically better from a 
strict performance standpoint?  Doubtful.  I will admit that I am 
using +4's in all of my cars, and they are always clean and light 
tan in color when I check them.  My Ford Explorer has 184K miles on 
it, and I have no issues with fouling at all, similar to my Dodge 
Intrepid with 132K miles.  The DeLorean seems to like any of the 
Bosch Platinum's, and I have +4's in it now.  I talked to a 
professional mechanic one time about platinum plugs, and he said 
that they should NEVER be used in any car.  I pressed him for an 
explanation, and this is what he said:  They are too reliable, and 
hardly ever need changing.  This causes people to start to neglect 
other areas of maintenance, leading to a general deterioration of 
the car.  His theory was that when the normal plugs burned away or 
fouled out, the owners would have a general tune-up done, including 
all of the other things that you typically do during a tune-up.  In 
short ... platinum plugs are too good, and last too long!  
Personally, I do all my own maintenance, and don't fall prey to 
neglecting anything.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> One thing I've wondered about +4 Plugs - it seems to me that all 4 
ground wires/electrodes cannot be precisely the same distance from 
the center electrode. Since the spark is going to jump the quickest 
way it can, only one ground wire will cause the spark for combustion 
(the closest one).  How is that any better than a single-wire plug 
(besides being more profitable for Bosch)?  








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 07:29:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean efficiency



I believe you're looking at earlier gross HP, not net. 1970's numbers
from the Corvette were around 200 HP. But what you have to remember is
that power is achieved in the 2000-3000 RPM range, not 5000-6000 RPM
for max HP from the PRV. In other words, a GM 350 is already producing
tremendous power at idle. It doesn't have to spin must faster (2-3
times) to reach maximum output. The PRV in contrast produces very
little power at idle. Only by spinning it 6 or 7 times faster will you
reach max output. Much less efficient.

What you're dealing with is torque. Large displacement engines simply
produce more of it. That's why they rarely leave the 3000 RPM range
(in typical consumer applications). A small engine may produce more
HP, but it does so at the cost of many more RPM's. If that small
engine is unable to reach those high revolutions, it is basically
powerless. That's why you never see a Honda pulling a camper or boat
trailer. From stand still it will either stall, melt the clutch, or
boil its transmission fluid. A small engine is also powerless during
the time it takes to rev up. That's why a large engine with *LOWER* HP
can out accelerate a smaller engine with *HIGHER* HP, even moving a
heavier vehicle.

FYI: HP is calculated -- Torque x RPM / 5252. A HP rating is
absolutely useless without either the torque or RPM's at which it was
calculated. HP is also not independently measurable (it's nothing more
that an expression of torque produced at a certain number of
revolutions). Probably no other automotive concept is so misunderstood
or so misused.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Porter" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> To pharaphrase GMC, Not more than you need, just 'less' than your use 
> to.  Over the last couple of weeks people on the list have been 
> stating comparisons of what DeLorean made in the 60's (muscle cars) 
> and his own version in the early 80's.  And then there were some 
> comparisons to the 81 DMC and new cars of today.  And then there were 
> posts about how stupid it is comparing technology of different 
> decades, and differnt restrictions and regulations of the different 
> eras.
> 
> I think though there has been an argument that has been left out of 
> this whole mess... DeLorean efficiency.  Now this is not talking gas 
> milege, although our dmc's are pretty good on gas in comparison to 
> other 80's cars.
> 
> The efficiency I'm talking about is how much horsepower it takes to 
> move a car at a certain speed.  I dont want to get into a big 
> argument here over this, but take a Bricklin, or a Corvette, or some 
> other muscle car, or yes, even a current day car.  Say we take a 
> corvette, not a car person, but dont the old ones from the 70's have 
> 350 hp, or something like that.  Now what is the top speed.  I'm not 
> sure, but with that lousy 3 speed auto I'm sure it cant do much more 
> than say 120-140, tops.  It takes 350hp to make the car get up to 
> 140mph.  In my book that is a waste of horsepower, and efficiency is 
> near 40%.
> 
> Take a DeLorean with its measly 130hp.  Its been doccumented at going 
> apx 130mph, stock, not mentioning performance enhancing Island Turbo 
> kits, and V8 Northstars and the like.  The Volvo engine were 
> talking.  It might take a while, but that 130hp is capable of driving 
> the car up to 130mph or about there, depending if your car's in 
> tune.  In my book that is nearing 1 hp per 1 mph.  Or nearly 100% 
> efficiency.
> 
> Now we talk about DeLorean being a Genius sometimes, and that the DMC-
> 12 is an engineers car.  Think about it.  What more could you ask for 
> than to make a car as efficient as possible while making it striking 
> and beautiful on the outside.  While execs of other companys thought 
> how to make a sports car or an exotic was to throw in a huge engine, 
> DeLorean rose above this, creating a near perfect car, not only 
> asteticly, but mechanicaly as well.
> 
> Other manufactures have done this, but only by default sticking in 
> measly 100hp engines because they were easy and cheap to 
> manufacture.  Although John was severly limited in his engine choices 
> at the time, I believe that this was a decision made and autherized 
> by the factory to make an ethical car.  Remember, this car was 25,000 
> dollars in a time when you could by a Honda for only 4,000.  It would 
> have been easy for John to stick in a big V8 powerplant.
> 
> And just to show you that this isnt just a fluke and flawed 
> reasoning, didnt the 70's prototype with a 4 cylinder engine only 
> generate apx 120hp?  Its estimated top speed was 120.  Ratio of near 
> 100% effiency.  If you dont think John succeed in created an 
> ethical "Sports" car, I dont know what would change your mind.
> 
> Tom Porter
> Maine, USA








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 07:45:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: just stuff



Note: This post is mainly for those who have an interest in Bricklins,
and more specificly, how the compare to DeLoreans in many aspects.

If you're looking for a Bricklin, then your journey needs to begin
here. And I say this, because it certainly doesn't sound like you've
researched into these cars that much (but don't take offence to that).

http://www.bricklin.org/

The Bricklin panels are not simple fibreglass. They are impregnated
acrylic. And I've seen first hand the irreversable damage that these
cars have gone thru, once petroleum based primers have been used on
them. It's like cancer, because it chemicly causes an irreversable
chain reaction that destroys the body panels.

You wouldn't really be pioneering anything with a Bricklin. Terry
Tanner in WV already sells repro fibreglass body panels, drop-in
pnuematic door openers, solenoids, and a plethora of parts for
anything you need.

I too would like to get a Bricklin one day. I think it would be a neat
car to play around with for customizing, and yeah, taking it out to
the drag strip (as usual, I'd perfer to start with a junker that can
be rebuilt the way I see fit). However, it does have it's down sides.

I don't know your exact measurements VB, but I can tell you that
Bricklins are severly cramped, in comparison to the DeLorean, and some
other modern cars. The door sills are higher, and so are the window
sills as well. I can't even hang my arm out of the window comfortably.
And the controls for the doors are NOT ergonomic at all. Sit in your
DeLorean. Now picture the center console about 4"-5" higher. And now
imagine that the buttons are located on the side of the console, right
above you seatbelt latch.

Interior trim-wise, the SV-1 isn't all that bad. Not when you compare
it to allot of 70's econo-boxes. The biggest thing by far has to be
the instrumentation. Replacing the generic VDO gagues, and simple
indicator lights would really go along way with that car. Except those
damn, non-reclining seats. I need to lean back when I drive.

BTW, the movie that you're refering to isn't "Gone in 60 Seconds '74".
The Bricklin actually appeared in "The Junkman", and then the
half-remake of both films titled, "Deadline Auto Theft". Pretty decent
representation of the SV-1 in the footage Halicki used. Save for
crashing the car into a lagoon of run-off water, trying to make it
sink. Cool stripe on the car, and one I've thought about putting on
mine, using the "V" shape of my front grill as a starting point.

Another thing about the difference between the Bricklin and the
DeLorean are the doors. The DeLorean used a much lower door sill, and
wraps itself around the A-pillar. The Bricklin door just sits into the
niche on the side of the car. The design of the door latches, and
lifting mechanisms are totally different as well. The DeLorean uses a
torsion bar to kick the door out a bit, and then the strut at the top
takes over, and lifts the door the rest of the way up. The Bricklin
uses either a stock hydraulic system, or an aftermarket pnuematic one
to pressurize a ram piston, to raise the door up. The practical
functions of which are totally different.

Unlock a DeLorean, and pull the handle. The door will take over, and
open itself up. On a Bricklin, you've got to first unlock the door.
And then, you must press, and HOLD the button to ether raise, or lift
the doors, untill they are either closed, or open (no word on if the
rams will activate, even if the doors are locked). And the kicker here
is that the key tumblers are located remotely from the phyiscal
latches. So if the battery goes dead, you've got to unlock the rear
hatch, and crawl in, so that you can unlatch the doors from the
inside. On this flip side, you'd have to do the same thing if you had
a street rod, with shaved door handles. So, it's not as bad as it sounds.

Still, it'd be a fun project car to tinker around with, and something
that would atleast break the boredom of finally being able to order
performance parts from a catalogue. Or in the case of a DeLorean,
being able to order performance parts for an engine, period!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 08:12:53 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fascias for sale...



Ian Foster's "Dusty" car

Wasn't that the mint condition barn find car that Chris parnham used 
to own? Is that the car these were meant for? Are these ones painted 
properly with the correct colors and clearcoat for an oem look?

Thanks Josh,

let me know as I may be interested in these if they are truly as 
nice as you say, but I keep fearing the fascias will look like the 
one we put on your car at Shannons.

If you have some detailed pictures available, fire away with them.

Thanks,

Joe




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> So you're saying it's one of a kind?!  The price just went up to 
$1000 
> for the front.  (haha)
> 
> Just kidding....Actually, these are like new fascias that were 
being 
> reserved for Ian Foster's "Dusty" car.  After seeing what shipping 
was 
> going to be overseas, he decided to try his hand at repainting 
his, so I 
> sent him the codes, and these are available now.
> 
> Let me know if you're interested,
> Josh
> 
> 
> mroboto_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> >The strange thing about that front Fascia, is that it's embossed 
with a 
> >"Motel 6" logo! It must be a special edition.
> >(Oh boy, I'm gonna get a rash of crap for this one!)
> >Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
> >
> >  
> >
> >>Message: 8        
> >>   Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 22:32:39 -0500
> >>   From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...>
> >>Subject: fascias for sale...
> >>
> >>I currently have one set of immaculate freshly painted fascias 
(front
> >>and rear) available for $800 plus shipping, or $400 for one or 
the other.
> >>
> >>First come, first serve.  I can send pics if you are 
interested.  e-mail
> >>me off list at jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:33:43 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


To be able to  lock up or not to lock up.  This brought up a question in my 
mind that the brake system itself  in peoples cars might have different holding 
power, not including what is a function of the tires.

So my question is.... Is there a way to test to see if the braking power is 
normal?

Dē & 6530  





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 08:46:35 -0000
From: "Noah Smith" <noahsmith_nc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: NC get together



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi List,
> 
> Myself and several owners are thinking about having an after 
> holidays get together in North Carolina. It would likely be held 
<snip>
> Right now we've got 4 owners in state who are guaranteed to show, 
> and I've got two owners from the Gulf Coast who have expressed 
> interest as well. I know of several other owners within a couple 
> hours driving distance who might be interested as well. So we 
could 
> have 4 cars or we could have 10 (who knows, maybe more!). Let me 
> know if you're interested and what dates/activities appeal to you. 
> Oh, and you don't need to be an owner to attend! :-)

Hello again Louie!
Glad to hear that non-owners are welcome. I'd like to try to attend, 
if anything more specific gets nailed down.

-Noah








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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 14:25:17 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel



Hi All

Are there any owners on this list from Germany, Sweden, France
etc... who would like a OEM (sort of) looking number plate surround
for the rear of their car?

At EuroFest 2001 I noticed loads of people who had driven across from
Europe and many of the cars seemed to lack the rear number plate
surround.

I understand that in many countries, on the continent, you can't 
alter the size of the number plate.

I have some mock up photos of what it would look like on my website 
www.newoldbits.co.uk click on the 'Products' link and then 
the 'Number Plate Surround Euro-Style' link. 

n.b. They are only very rough mock-up pictures

Any interest???


James RG








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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 09:15:02 -0600
From: Dave Kaplan <dkaplan_at_dml_steffeninc.com>
Subject: Lucas


As my relatives in England say:

Why do the British drink warm beer?

Because their refrigerators are made by Lucas.






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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:21:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion



The oil debate has raged here for a long time. You can see it in the 
archives. I am positively NOT trying to reignite it but I do have a 
question that should have a short, no-nonsense, factual answer.

I've decided to put Mobil One in my engine. I noticed 10w30 and 
0w30. I've never heard of 0w30 before. What is the difference? What 
is 0w30?

I couldn't find this in the archives. Thanks.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>   I've pretty much settled on 5W30 as being my oil of
> choice:
> A hotrod magazine article reported the largest
> horsepower gain using that grade of oil
> 
> Using a super-grade synthetic, like Amsoil should lay
> to rest any concerns about adequate flow, and
> lubrication, or breakdown of the oil.
> 
> I've used the Amsoil motor oil in all my vehicles,
> from V-8's to 4 cyl. Porsche engines, and have
> "enjoyed" the extended drain intervals.
> 
> On drain intervals: Amsoil says their product can go
> 25,000 mithout a change. Supposedly at 12,500 miles
> you should change the filter, and add a quart. But I
> just opt for changing the oil and filter at 10,000
> miles- period. Even doing that keeps the costs in line
> with other brands of oil, and I still get to enjoy the
> superior components of the synthetic product.
> 
> Some time back I asked AMsoil about mixing grades of
> oil. Example adding a quart of 20W50 to my usual 5W30
> to "stiffen" it, and asking would the grade then
> change from 5W30 to 5W50? They (Amsoil) advised that
> it would be like mixing golf balls, and base balls.
> The properties of the 2 grades of oils would not mix,
> and they recommended against it.
> 
> I can report though I have had no problems what so
> ever with using the 5W30, even in a 4 cylinder high
> performance engine.
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:37:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Dielectric Grease



But old dielectric grease loses its conductive properties and becomes
an INSULATOR. I run into this all the time on my 20-25 year old daily
drivers. Can't tell you the number of times I've had to scrape and
spray it out to restablish an electrical connection. If you ever
encounter a failed electrical device on a vintage vehicle, check the
harness connection first. Chances are you'll find hard dead dielectric
grease gumming it up. Ford especially loved to use it EVERYWHERE: head
and tail lights, alternator, ignition module, cruise control,
windshield wiper motor, A/C compressor, etc.

Bill Robertson
5 1977-1979 Mark V's, 2 1981-1982 AMC's, 1985 & 1988 F150's

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nitrousgarageworks"
<nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   Some other tips: I found di-electric contact grease to be of great 
> use, and of relative importance. Especially on older cars. I use it 
> on EVERY electical contact, from spark plug head to boot connections, 
> dash wiring connections, distributor and coil connections too.
>   Di-electric contact grease, applied as film, not gooped on, can 
> displace moisture, prevent corrosion, and ensure good electrical 
> contacts in damn near all situations. Older cars seem to be vunerable 
> to weak, and less than perfect electrical contacts, and connections. 
> A moment's time spent, and a penny's worth of di-electric contact 
> grease applied, can save you from having to do the job twice to get 
> the desired results.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:48:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Improving DeLo Exhaust



If nothing else, irrespective of performance (which the seat of my
pants does feel improvement...), there's a very good reason to replace
the stock exhaust crossover pipe with true dual exhaust: access. Every
component in the "Valley of Death" is very accessible from underneath
the car once the crossover pipe is out of the way. No joke -- try it
sometime: heater core takeoff barb is right in your face, and the
ignition distributor less than 1/2" beyond it. Clutch slave cylinder
is equally close, though you still need to bleed it from above due to
funny angle of the bleeder screw. You can easily reach all sensors and
the thermal vacuum switch WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD IN PLACE. You can
even reach all the way to the back of the water pump.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> And if you do things without measuring the results, you have no
> idea what you've got.
> 
> I don't trust the seat of anybody's pants...
> 
> What I am saying is that engines, brakes, transmissions, coolant 
> systems etc. are all designed as a system by experienced automotive
> engineers with access to tools that can conclusively show the impacts
> of a change to any part of the system.  Replacing bits and pieces 
> with aftermarket parts that were not specifically designed or tested 
> with the DeLorean with the intent of improving performance based on 
> the component manufacturer's claim is a gamble.
> 
> The Bosch +4 plug is a perfect example.  They don't improve 
> performance in every case.  In fact, they can reduce performance as 
> we have found for the Lotus 9xx engines.  The shape of the 
> combustion chamber, the placement of the plug, and the 
> characteristics of the spark make for less complete combustion
> than with the original equipment plugs.  
> 
> Mucking around with brakes and suspension is particularly
> risky if you don't understand the dynamics of the system.
> Increasing front brake capacity without adjusting the rear
> brake bias can make the car unstable under braking.  This
> increases the liklihood of locking up the front brakes.  Putting
> large diameter, low profile tires, lowering suspensions, 
> changing wheel offsets can have an adverse effect on handling.
> This is why a number of major insurance companies are refusing
> to honor claims for modified import cars.
> 
> I'm not saying that all aftermarket parts are snake oil.  There are 
> a lot of well designed systems that are built for specific applications
> that work quite well.  Often these systems are engineered with 
> the participation of the original manufacturer and are typically done 
> for markets that are much much larger than the DeLorean.  Expecting 
> those same parts to bolt on to the DeLorean and make the same
improvments
> is a stretch.
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...>:
-------------- 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Hey Guy's help me out here, 
> > So, What yall are saying is that when new products come out there
will be no 
> > improvement in performance and efficiency because it wasn't
available 24 
> > years ago for them to evaluate when they designed the car / engine. 
> > Then all the claims that Bosch, MSD, Mallory, K & N not counting
all the 
> > other the 100's of companies that have the engineering money are
wrong. 
> > For example, Bosch in the platinum + 4 plugs. They have poured
Millions into 
> > design and research and state the +4 is the Best plug. MSD again
have poured 
> > millions and have developed a multi million dollar industry in
improved 
> > ignition performance products. 
> > And K & N took 50 year old technology and improved the air filter
from being 
> > big and bulky to compact and spray on the oil. Maybe if spray oil was 
> > invented 50 years ago the old oil bath filter would have never
been made. 
> > If what your are saying is true, then why are engineering
departments all 
> > over the world trying to build a better mouse trap and always
trying to 
> > improve the existing ones. 
> > Sorry, I don't understand: I just know That if you keep on doing
what your 
> > doing then you keep on getting what you got. 
> > John Hervey 
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:01:30 -0000
From: "nitrousgarageworks" <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Data on oil



These are the published results for several major brands of oil, 
using a standard industry test. The results speak for themselves.

Ball Bearing Wear Test:
60 Kg. pressure
_at_dml_ 150 Degrees Centigrade
1800 RPM
1 Hour Duration

Wear scar on bearing surface measured in millimeters (mm):

Amsoil  .44mm
Valvoline Synthetic  .713mm
Castrol Syntec  .757mm
Quaker State Synthetic Blend  .790mm
Mobil 1  .922mm









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:27:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter


( Steve, he could have been talking about underdrive pullys which allow more HP to go to driving the wheels rather than accessories.  Moderator )


The speed/cost analogy reminded me of once at a car
show where I was showing my '68 Camaro, I overheard a
guy telling his girlfriend that the chrome pulleys
"made it go faster".  Not sure if he really believed
it or not, but it looked like she bought it.  Just
made me laugh.  Maybe we need some chrome pulleys for
the D's, then we wouldn't have to worry about all this
intake and exhaust rubbish.

Steve
--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> My advice is that you *can* "upgrade". The problem
> is there is no one
> thing that will get you much improvement. Just
> changing an air filter
> ain't going to do it! Now if you change the air
> filter you may notice
> a "slight" improvement but combine that with a
> tune-up, a better
> breathing exhaust, a hotter ignition, fresh, high
> octane gas, and
> maybe some other things and all of a sudden you will
> get a measureable
> change. The point here is that you have to go about
> this
> realistically. And you have to be ready to spend a
> lot of money for
> what will turn out to be small gains. If it was that
> easy then
> everyone would be doing it. There is no *magic*
> here. There is the
> story of the young boy walking into the speed shop
> and asking the
> owner how fast he can make his car go and the owner
> replied "Speed
> costs money, how much do you have to spend"? The
> laws of Physics
> haven't changed all that much in 20 years.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wingd2_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > 
> > In a message dated 12/3/2004 3:51:05 PM Central
> Standard Time, 
> > dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:
> >    From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...>
> > Subject: RE: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:32:25 -0800 (PST)
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion


The simplest way to explain it is: Think of the W
rating in oil as "winter". How the oil flows at zero,
or sub-zero temperatures. As the oil is tested it's
assigned a "value" by the petoleum product
manufacturer's association. Generally the lower the
first W value, the faster it flows in cold temp.s But
realistically zero weight oil, is an EXTREMELY light
grade of oil, and won't survive long in use. It's
properties degrade quickly, 
--- cruznmd <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> The oil debate has raged here for a long time. You
> can see it in the 
> archives. I am positively NOT trying to reignite it
> but I do have a 
> question that should have a short, no-nonsense,
> factual answer.
> 
> I've decided to put Mobil One in my engine. I
> noticed 10w30 and 
> 0w30. I've never heard of 0w30 before. What is the
> difference? What 
> is 0w30?
> 
> I couldn't find this in the archives. Thanks.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, M5E
> <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   I've pretty much settled on 5W30 as being my oil
> of
> > choice:
> > A hotrod magazine article reported the largest
> > horsepower gain using that grade of oil
> > 
> > Using a super-grade synthetic, like Amsoil should
> lay
> > to rest any concerns about adequate flow, and
> > lubrication, or breakdown of the oil.
> > 
> > I've used the Amsoil motor oil in all my vehicles,
> > from V-8's to 4 cyl. Porsche engines, and have
> > "enjoyed" the extended drain intervals.
> > 
> > On drain intervals: Amsoil says their product can
> go
> > 25,000 mithout a change. Supposedly at 12,500
> miles
> > you should change the filter, and add a quart. But
> I
> > just opt for changing the oil and filter at 10,000
> > miles- period. Even doing that keeps the costs in
> line
> > with other brands of oil, and I still get to enjoy
> the
> > superior components of the synthetic product.
> > 
> > Some time back I asked AMsoil about mixing grades
> of
> > oil. Example adding a quart of 20W50 to my usual
> 5W30
> > to "stiffen" it, and asking would the grade then
> > change from 5W30 to 5W50? They (Amsoil) advised
> that
> > it would be like mixing golf balls, and base
> balls.
> > The properties of the 2 grades of oils would not
> mix,
> > and they recommended against it.
> > 
> > I can report though I have had no problems what so
> > ever with using the 5W30, even in a 4 cylinder
> high
> > performance engine.
> > 
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around 
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:35:07 -0800 (PST)
From: M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Dielectric Grease


Di_electric contact grease is a silicone product,
which theoretically should not harden. There are many
different brands of this product available. I would
evaluate it's appearance at time of use. I use the
semi-clear variety. I know of the type you speak of
that Ford uses, and it's a white gel, with a paste
like appearance. Probably a low grade product. Nothing
lasts forever, but I still use, and endorse a good
quality grade of di-electric contact grease.


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> But old dielectric grease loses its conductive
> properties and becomes
> an INSULATOR. I run into this all the time on my
> 20-25 year old daily
> drivers. Can't tell you the number of times I've had
> to scrape and
> spray it out to restablish an electrical connection.
> If you ever
> encounter a failed electrical device on a vintage
> vehicle, check the
> harness connection first. Chances are you'll find
> hard dead dielectric
> grease gumming it up. Ford especially loved to use
> it EVERYWHERE: head
> and tail lights, alternator, ignition module, cruise
> control,
> windshield wiper motor, A/C compressor, etc.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> 5 1977-1979 Mark V's, 2 1981-1982 AMC's, 1985 & 1988
> F150's
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com,
> "nitrousgarageworks"
> <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   Some other tips: I found di-electric contact
> grease to be of great 
> > use, and of relative importance. Especially on
> older cars. I use it 
> > on EVERY electical contact, from spark plug head
> to boot connections, 
> > dash wiring connections, distributor and coil
> connections too.
> >   Di-electric contact grease, applied as film, not
> gooped on, can 
> > displace moisture, prevent corrosion, and ensure
> good electrical 
> > contacts in damn near all situations. Older cars
> seem to be vunerable 
> > to weak, and less than perfect electrical
> contacts, and connections. 
> > A moment's time spent, and a penny's worth of
> di-electric contact 
> > grease applied, can save you from having to do the
> job twice to get 
> > the desired results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 11:38:35 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: fascias for sale...


Hi Joe,

This is for the benefit of the group, as I've had a few people with 
questions this area:

There were two colors used on the facias but the later one is the only 
one that there is still a code for.
it is for either DBU or DBC from PPG
the paint code for the silver is 33584 SILVER
us k36 primer first and it will come out right.
There are three or four clear coats you can use and that is up to you.

The fascia that I put on my car was an experiment to see what would 
happen if we applied the color coat directly over the prepared surface, 
without the k36 primer.  As you saw at Shannon's house, it didn't work, 
because paint doesn't stick very well to a surface that has been 
armor-alled for 20 years, even if it has been cleaned thoroughly with 
laquer thinner.  (for those not there, as we pressed the fascia into 
place, the paint started breaking away from the surface underneath)  
That was the only fascia that we tried this method on (hence the reason 
I put it on my car)...all the others have the primer, and will stick 
like super glue.

These particular fascias are special, because almost all the other ones 
we have done so far have been fascias that we got from PJ Grady that had 
been involved in accidents.  We used fiberglass fabric and epoxy to 
repair the damage to 14 of these fascias, and for the most part, they 
came out pretty good.  These two fascias, however, had no damage 
originally.  That's the difference.

I took some pics of the fascias yesterday, but they came out really 
blurry, so I'm going to try and borrow my Dad's digital camera today and 
get better shots.  As soon as I get those I will send the pics to you 
and everyone else who has requested them.

Thanks for your interest,
Josh





Joe OBrien wrote:

>
>Ian Foster's "Dusty" car
>
>Wasn't that the mint condition barn find car that Chris parnham used 
>to own? Is that the car these were meant for? Are these ones painted 
>properly with the correct colors and clearcoat for an oem look?
>
>Thanks Josh,
>
>let me know as I may be interested in these if they are truly as 
>nice as you say, but I keep fearing the fascias will look like the 
>one we put on>
>If you have some detailed pictures available, fire away with them.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe
>
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>  
>
>>So you're saying it's one of a kind?!  The price just went up to 
>>    
>>
>$1000 
>  
>
>>for the front.  (haha)
>>
>>Just kidding....Actually, these are like new fascias that were 
>>    
>>
>being 
>  
>
>>reserved for Ian Foster's "Dusty" car.  After seeing what shipping 
>>    
>>
>was 
>  
>
>>going to be overseas, he decided to try his hand at repainting 
>>    
>>
>his, so I 
>  
>
>>sent him the codes, and these are available now.
>>
>>Let me know if you're interested,
>>Josh
>>
>>
>>mroboto_at_dml_a... wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>The strange thing about that front Fascia, is that it's embossed 
>>>      
>>>
>with a 
>  
>
>>>"Motel 6" logo! It must be a special edition.
>>>(Oh boy, I'm gonna get a rash of crap for this one!)
>>>Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>>>Message: 8        
>>>>  Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 22:32:39 -0500
>>>>  From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...>
>>>>Subject: fascias for sale...
>>>>
>>>>I currently have one set of immaculate freshly painted fascias 
>>>>        
>>>>
>(front
>  
>
>>>>and rear) available for $800 plus shipping, or $400 for one or 
>>>>        
>>>>
>the other.
>  
>
>>>>First come, first serve.  I can send pics if you are 
>>>>        
>>>>
>interested.  e-mail
>  
>
>>>>me off list at jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net
>>>>
>>>>   
>>>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>
>>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
>>>      
>>>
>address:
>  
>
>>>moderators_at_dml_d...
>>>
>>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>>>      
>>>
>www.dmcnews.com
>  
>
>>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>>      
>>>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>  
>
>>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 17:58:07 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel


James, I put it on our german forum so maybe some more people will see it.


As far as I know a german guy made such cover a few years ago but
didn't sell many of them - if at all.

Keep up the good work, but don't expect to sell many of them.

Elvis & 6548



Hi All

Are there any owners on this list from Germany, Sweden, France
etc... who would like a OEM (sort of) looking number plate surround
for the rear of their car?

At EuroFest 2001 I noticed loads of people who had driven across from
Europe and many of the cars seemed to lack the rear number plate
surround.

I understand that in many countries, on the continent, you can't 
alter the size of the number plate.

I have some mock up photos of what it would look like on my website 
www.newoldbits.co.uk click on the 'Products' link and then 
the 'Number Plate Surround Euro-Style' link. 

n.b. They are only very rough mock-up pictures

Any interest???


James RG







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 17:47:44 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What is it?



 With the driver's rear tire off my car we noticed a wire off a 
sensor that exited the tire flare in the wheel well. I reconnected 
it but, what was it? I havent had the chance to look it up yet but 
nothing in the instrument cluster was effected as far as I can tell.
Thank, Harry








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 17:41:27 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



 So, I decided to change my tires. The tire dealer is a good friend 
of mine, the only matching set of tires he could find were Michellin 
XGT Pilots. Even though the NCT's hade exactly 485 miles on them 
they were more dry rotted than I thought. Once removed, I stepped on 
the sidewall of one of them and exposed a Huge crack between the 
treads. They only thing I would recommend to you guys with original 
tires or old ones is change them! I was kinda freaked, the last 
thing anyone wants is to get killed or wreck their car because they 
want to maintain its originality. I did keep the old tires though, 
they are just going up on the shelves of my garage. It makes one 
think though, about the keeping the car original. Im glad PJ Grady 
performed all the recalls and electrical updates on the car, Id hate 
to risk an electrical fire or whatever just because I was 
considering keeping it 100% original. I hope Im not mis-informing 
anyone about the updates but It was my impression that they cant be 
performed if the car is to compete in competition.
 As a side note, I had no idea the car would handle quite as good as 
it does with the pilots.

Harry Vin#2696








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 12:10:47 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)


Toby, Thanks for the + 4 Bosch plugs explanation. I knew a little bit about
it but not all.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 1:23 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)





Andy - Bosch originally developed the Platinum +2 for small general
aviation aircraft to increase reliability and avoid fouling.
Obviously, the plugs are far more important in an airplane than a
car from a safety standpoint.  What they found is that the specific
conditions of the ground prongs were constantly changing as
combustion chamber swirl, carbon build-up, and other factors entered
in.  The spark would jump first to one prong, and then the other.
It was unlikely that both would fail at once, leading to complete
failure of the plug.  Then, under the theory that "more is better",
they added another pair of prongs.  However, the spark only jumps to
one prong on any one firing cycle.  Is it dramatically better from a
strict performance standpoint?  Doubtful.  I will admit that I am
using +4's in all of my cars, and they are always clean and light
tan in color when I check them.  My Ford Explorer has 184K miles on
it, and I have no issues with fouling at all, similar to my Dodge
Intrepid with 132K miles.  The DeLorean seems to like any of the
Bosch Platinum's, and I have +4's in it now.  I talked to a
professional mechanic one time about platinum plugs, and he said
that they should NEVER be used in any car.  I pressed him for an
explanation, and this is what he said:  They are too reliable, and
hardly ever need changing.  This causes people to start to neglect
other areas of maintenance, leading to a general deterioration of
the car.  His theory was that when the normal plugs burned away or
fouled out, the owners would have a general tune-up done, including
all of the other things that you typically do during a tune-up.  In
short ... platinum plugs are too good, and last too long!
Personally, I do all my own maintenance, and don't fall prey to
neglecting anything.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> One thing I've wondered about +4 Plugs - it seems to me that all 4
ground wires/electrodes cannot be precisely the same distance from
the center electrode. Since the spark is going to jump the quickest
way it can, only one ground wire will cause the spark for combustion
(the closest one).  How is that any better than a single-wire plug
(besides being more profitable for Bosch)?








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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:14:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs (was Upgrading the Air Filter)



At one time Rob Grady ONLY used the platinum plugs. He started seeing
cars coming back running rough. It turned out to be the seal between
the porcelain and the metal shell was leaking and the cylinder would
loose compression. It didn't happen on every plug but at least 1 out
of the 6. He no longer advises the use of the platinum plugs. They may
have improved the seal or maybe for some weird reason it just fails in
the Delorean application. I do not see anywhere near as many cars as
he does so I would defer to his experience. Besides, the only real
advantage is the extended life, not performance. With multiple ground
electrodes each wears less so the gap changes slower so the plugs last
longer. The platinum is also more durable. I don't think even Bosch is
making any performance claims, just that they are a better plug
insofar as they wil last longer. Longevity is not the most important
thing here when most of the Deloreans see limited use. Economics has
something do do with this too. The platinum plugs are expensive. BTW
the main reason aircraft use multiple ground electodes is so if one
should break off the plug will still fire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> 
> Andy - Bosch originally developed the Platinum +2 for small general 
> aviation aircraft to increase reliability and avoid fouling.  
> Obviously, the plugs are far more important in an airplane than a 
> car from a safety standpoint.  What they found is that the specific 
> conditions of the ground prongs were constantly changing as 
> combustion chamber swirl, carbon build-up, and other factors entered 
> in.  The spark would jump first to one prong, and then the other.  
> It was unlikely that both would fail at once, leading to complete 
> failure of the plug.  Then, under the theory that "more is better", 
> they added another pair of prongs.  However, the spark only jumps to 
> one prong on any one firing cycle.  Is it dramatically better from a 
> strict performance standpoint?  Doubtful.  I will admit that I am 
> using +4's in all of my cars, and they are always clean and light 
> tan in color when I check them.  My Ford Explorer has 184K miles on 









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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:18:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)



The "best" way is to either try driving other Deloreans or have
someone else try yours and see if there is a difference. There are
always slight differences, for instance the pads you use matter. You
might have a stuck piston or maybe the brakes drag. There are pressure
testers you can buy and use to measure the force on the pads but they
are expensive and do not always give you enough information.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> To be able to  lock up or not to lock up.  This brought up a
question in my 
> mind that the brake system itself  in peoples cars might have
different holding 
>& 6530








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