From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2353
Date: Sunday, December 05, 2004 10:40 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. RE: Re: DeLorean efficiency - Cup Holder
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: DeLorean efficiency
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

5. Driving Techniques
From: "jhirkojr" <jhirkojr_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Lucas
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

8. An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Data on oil
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: Data on oil (and the answer to my question)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: Brake Proportioning Valve (Videobob)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. ATTN: Martin Gutkowski (or Canadians / Australians)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: DeLorean Security
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

19. Re: Lucas
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

21. RE: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. Re: Cleaning the underbody
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: What is it?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:17:34 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use


Now c'mon guys, the car peeling out was a special effect, but the car 
screeching with it's brakes
locked is NOT a special effect. That is EXACTLY what would happed in you 
were going about
40MPH and locked the brakes.
I know for a FACT because I have done it several times and the car reacts 
exactly that way.
Where is the special effect in slamming the brakes?
- VB

>From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [DML] Re: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use
>Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 05:22:11 +0000
>
>
>
>Yup - I'd believe that scene.  Just like every other scene in the movie
>was so true to life...
>
>--
>Mike
>
>
>-------------- Original message from "Videobob Moseley" 
><videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>: --------------
>
>
> >
> >
> > Put in a copy of BTTF 1, just after Marty goes back in time and leaves
> > Peabody's farm
> > he is driving down an old country road and then slamms the brakes.
> > The cars slides on the front wheels and then jerks to the left hard.
> >
> > There is your DeLorean braking system.
> > Of course, those were a set of Goodyear NCT's but the also on bone dry
> > asphalt.
> >
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:21:41 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean efficiency - Cup Holder


The cup holders that Don Stegar sells are great!
I have one in my car ans use it every day.
It the photos it looks as though it would be a little intrusive to the 
passenger
but I can assure you that it isn't in any way.
They are a little pricey but considering the alternatives it ain't all that 
bad.

http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_a000019_drink_holder_gray_.html

- Videobob
VIN#5278

>From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean efficiency
>Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 06:26:41 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Debates, and comparisons can, and will rage on for eternity. But no
>matter what, the thing that I have been most pleased with has been my
>car's reliability. For several years, the DeLorean was my ONLY car.
>And it has seen me thru some rough times, as well as many more happy ones.
>
>Sure I could nitpick certain things here and there. But what has
>really counted for me has been that my car has remained on the road.
>Only once have I ever had a failure on my car due to an inherent
>engineering problem (shift pivot bolt). Otherwise, regular maintenace
>has been the winning formula to longevity. And it how many miles that
>I rack up that count to me. :)
>
>Could I ask for anything more? Sure. Intergrated cupholders. My
>passengers just aren't cutting it.
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585 "X"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 15:26:46 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean efficiency


...let's not forget, the police had reported that Rodney King had been 
chased in his Hyundia
Excell at speeds over 120 MPH in LA.
I think most ANY car will eventually get up to that speed.
The trick is how fast it does it, how fast it is in each gear and under what 
condition?

That "low effeciency" Vette you mentioned could take off up a steep hill
loaded down with fat chicks and whoop our asses even if we had Carl Lewis 
behind us pushing.

I was a Harley Guy long before I got into cars, and my years of motorcycle 
wrenchin'
have prooved time and time again..... "There is no replacement for 
DISplacement".

- VB

>From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean efficiency
>Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 05:37:24 +0000
>
>
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by efficiency.  It seems that you are equating
>1hp to 1mph to determine your ratio.  This is not a typical measurement.
>Normally, engine (or drivetrain) efficiency is a ratio of the hp delivered
>to the energy contained in the fuel burned.
>
>The amount of horsepower necessary to move a car at a certain speed
>is determined primarily by aerodynamics and rolling friction.  Torque gets
>you to the desired speed, horsepower keeps you there.  The more torque
>you have, the faster you can accelerate.
>
>--
>Mike
>
>
>-------------- Original message from "Tom Porter" 
><treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>: --------------
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > To pharaphrase GMC, Not more than you need, just 'less' than your use
> > to. Over the last couple of weeks people on the list have been
> > stating comparisons of what DeLorean made in the 60's (muscle cars)
> > and his own version in the early 80's. And then there were some
> > comparisons to the 81 DMC and new cars of today. And then there were
> > posts about how stupid it is comparing technology of different
> > decades, and differnt restrictions and regulations of the different
> > eras.
> >
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:54:54 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel



Hi James

I shared the info on our French discussion board, any personn 
interested will contact you.
US license plates are not legal in France but they are tolerate as 
long as they are yellow and the numbers have the correct 
dimensions ;-) I will personnaly keep the original bezel, and even 
plan to make my own plate from brushed aluminum with vinyl numbers 
to match the body 

Thanks !
Raphael


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Are there any owners on this list from Germany, Sweden, France
> etc... who would like a OEM (sort of) looking number plate surround
> for the rear of their car?
> 
> At EuroFest 2001 I noticed loads of people who had driven across 
from
> Europe and many of the cars seemed to lack the rear number plate
> surround.
> 
> I understand that in many countries, on the continent, you can't 
> alter the size of the number plate.
> 
> I have some mock up photos of what it would look like on my 
website 
> www.newoldbits.co.uk click on the 'Products' link and then 
> the 'Number Plate Surround Euro-Style' link. 
> 
> n.b. They are only very rough mock-up pictures
> 
> Any interest???
> 
> 
> James RG








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 21:57:27 -0000
From: "jhirkojr" <jhirkojr_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Driving Techniques



Videobob wrote:
"All I said in the beginning was that I don't want to drive the car in
the rain, it doesn't perform as well as a modern car in the rain and I
would just assume leave it at home to be on the safe side."

   VB - the D performs every bit as well as ANY modern car WITHOUT ABS
in the rain. The problem lies in your driving techniques. If you have
your front brakes locked up and have lost traction (regardless whether
on water, ice, oil, whatever, you can spin your steering wheel
lock-to-lock until Kerry gets elected, but the vehicle will continue
to travel in the direction that inertia is pushing it until traction
is regained. Either you momentarily let off the brake until the wheel
can rotate again or dry  surface is encountered or SOMETHING breaks
the film surface that the tire is sliding on. At that point, the
vehicle will steer to the direction that the wheel is pointing. It
will. That is why, in the days before ABS, the dictum was "pump the
brakes". Which is exactly what ABS does, and why with ABS the dictum
is DO NOT pump the brakes - ABS is doing it for you.

Mike Hirko
vin 1387
"WAWAZAT"








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 17:36:09 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lucas


 
 
Motto of the Lucas Corp.
 
"Get home before dark."

Dē &  6530





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 15:22:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion


Hi Rich,
As far as I know the only difference between Mobil 1
0w30 and 10w30 is the viscosity or thickness of the
oil.O weight will be thinner and flow more easily when
the engine is cold than 10w oil.
At the Benz dealer I work at we use 0 weight Mobil 1
but for my DeLorean I use the 10 weight oil since it
never gets that cold here to warrant it.
Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Australia

> I've decided to put Mobil One in my engine. I
> noticed 10w30 and 
> 0w30. I've never heard of 0w30 before. What is the
> difference? What 
> is 0w30?
> 
> I couldn't find this in the archives. Thanks.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do?
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 23:23:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion



Moreover, the oil itself is whatever weight precedes the "W". For
example, 10Wxx oil is only 10 weight, that's all. Miracle additives
are supposed to make the oil act like the heavier number that follows
the "W" after it heats up. I don't trust them. Too often I've seen
multi viscosity oil come out as two separate products during an oil
change: thin watery stuff followed by thick gloppy stuff. I'm assuming
that's the oil separating from its miracle additives. I've also
encountered valve train noise in my AMC with multi viscosity oil.
That's why I use straight 30 weight only (temperatures where I live
rarely drop below freezing). Multi viscosity oil makes no sense for
vehicles in Florida or California either.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> The simplest way to explain it is: Think of the W
> rating in oil as "winter". How the oil flows at zero,
> or sub-zero temperatures. As the oil is tested it's
> assigned a "value" by the petoleum product
> manufacturer's association. Generally the lower the
> first W value, the faster it flows in cold temp.s But
> realistically zero weight oil, is an EXTREMELY light
> grade of oil, and won't survive long in use. It's
> properties degrade quickly, 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 23:37:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30



DeLo problem is in the sender, not the dash gauge. Mine was woefully
inaccurate until I replaced it with a vendor's xRef, which does drive
the gauge properly but unfortunately weeps oil at the spade connector
(despite my best efforts to seal it externally with every product
imaginable).

Note that generic senders won't drive our dash gauge correctly because
they are usually calibrated to 100 max PSI.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Scott McMullan <smcmullan_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I described this issue over the summer in detail on this list, using a
> different email address.
> 
> I had my oil pressure gague's accuracy tested, and it was fine.
> 
> As long as I have 20w50 in there, everything works according to spec;
> pressure reads in the normal range and behaves as expected (needle
> just about horizontal at idle, and near the top of the range when
> running pretty much anything over 1K RPM.
> 
> If I put lighter weight oil in, about 10 minutes after the engine is
> at normal operating temperature, oil pressure at idle reads less than
> half the normal idle pressure, and the longer I run the lower it goes,
> almost reading zero after 45min or so of driving.  With the engine
> over 1K RPM, the pressure is on the gague, but lower than normal.  The
> oil pressure light NEVER comes on when the engine is operating.  I had
> 10W30 in there, then moved to 10W40, with no noticable improvement. 
> Change oil back to 20w50, and the oil pressure starts behaving
> normally (although it was funky for the first 150 miles, like it was
> working its way back to being OK).
> 
> While the engine was generally louder than normal with the lighter
> weight oil, I don't recall any specific clattering that sounded
> "wrong".
> 
> Maybe my engine had bad internal wear, I really don't know.  But I
> *never* have any problems starting in the cold.  It was near freezing
> on Thursday morning, and the engine fired right up on the 1st try, as
> always.
> 
> I have never found anyone who could give me a good reason for this
> behavior, I was just guessing at the oil pump.  One shop I consulted
> when I first started having this problem (a friend of mine works
> there) tried to tell me that the engine was probably shot, and putting
> heavier oil in wouldn't help the symptom.  I found that hard to
> believe with about 60K KM on the odometer... glad they were wrong.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:05:42 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all of my 
calipers and pads from Hervey.
Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake shop) told
me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although Hervey 
told me
they were the "best available".
I think that there needs to be an adjustment or some sort of an equalizer to 
give the
rear wheels a little bit more grip than the front for stopping.
This would help prevent the front tires from locking up.
If there is a way to make the rear 60 and the front 40 then that would make 
a difference.

Also, no matter what I do I can't get the damned emergency brake to have any
grip good enough to stop the car from rolling.
I was given a failed inspection because they said the E-brake doesn't work.

Any suggestions?

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
>Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:18:39 -0000
>
>
>
>
>The "best" way is to either try driving other Deloreans or have
>someone else try yours and see if there is a difference. There are
>always slight differences, for instance the pads you use matter. You
>might have a stuck piston or maybe the brakes drag. There are pressure
>testers you can buy and use to measure the force on the pads but they
>are expensive and do not always give you enough information.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> >
> > To be able to  lock up or not to lock up.  This brought up a
>question in my
> > mind that the brake system itself  in peoples cars might have
>different holding
> >& 6530
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:47:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Data on oil



Which oil grade? My reading of research articles showed different 
results for different grades and brands. I think a general statement 
about brands may be misleading.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nitrousgarageworks" 
<nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> These are the published results for several major brands of oil, 
> using a standard industry test. The results speak for themselves.
> 
> Ball Bearing Wear Test:
> 60 Kg. pressure
> _at_dml_ 150 Degrees Centigrade
> 1800 RPM
> 1 Hour Duration
> 
> Wear scar on bearing surface measured in millimeters (mm):
> 
> Amsoil  .44mm
> Valvoline Synthetic  .713mm
> Castrol Syntec  .757mm
> Quaker State Synthetic Blend  .790mm
> Mobil 1  .922mm








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 03:02:25 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion



Check out this site - 
http://TheMotorOilSite.com

Your understanding is a common one and not quite accurate.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Moreover, the oil itself is whatever weight precedes the "W". For
> example, 10Wxx oil is only 10 weight, that's all. Miracle additives
> are supposed to make the oil act like the heavier number that 
follows
> the "W" after it heats up. I don't trust them. Too often I've seen
> multi viscosity oil come out as two separate products during an oil
> change: thin watery stuff followed by thick gloppy stuff. I'm 
assuming
> that's the oil separating from its miracle additives. I've also
> encountered valve train noise in my AMC with multi viscosity oil.
> That's why I use straight 30 weight only (temperatures where I live
> rarely drop below freezing). Multi viscosity oil makes no sense for
> vehicles in Florida or California either.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, M5E <nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > The simplest way to explain it is: Think of the W
> > rating in oil as "winter". How the oil flows at zero,
> > or sub-zero temperatures. As the oil is tested it's
> > assigned a "value" by the petoleum product
> > manufacturer's association. Generally the lower the
> > first W value, the faster it flows in cold temp.s But
> > realistically zero weight oil, is an EXTREMELY light
> > grade of oil, and won't survive long in use. It's
> > properties degrade quickly,








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:43:34 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Data on oil (and the answer to my question)



Thanks to all for answering my oil questions. I went with the 10w30 
Mobil 1, but that was before I even asked the question here.

I don't even know where to buy Amsoil. It's not at any stores here. 
The only thing that surprised me about the oil data was that a 
synthetic blend was better than a pure synthetic.

Ok, so Mobil 1 is the worst of the synthetics but how does it 
compare to straight, dead-dinosaur oil? Especially the cheap stuff?

Rich A.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nitrousgarageworks" 
<nitrousgarageworks_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> These are the published results for several major brands of oil, 
> using a standard industry test. The results speak for themselves.
> 
> Ball Bearing Wear Test:
> 60 Kg. pressure
> _at_dml_ 150 Degrees Centigrade
> 1800 RPM
> 1 Hour Duration
> 
> Wear scar on bearing surface measured in millimeters (mm):
> 
> Amsoil  .44mm
> Valvoline Synthetic  .713mm
> Castrol Syntec  .757mm
> Quaker State Synthetic Blend  .790mm
> Mobil 1  .922mm








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 03:08:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Proportioning Valve (Videobob)



The "equalizer" you're looking for actually "unequalizes" the brakes.
It's called a brake proportioning valve. Pretty standard device on
nearly every other vehicle of DeLo vintage (even my base model AMC has
one).

They are available aftermarket. Or simply grab one next time you're in
a junkyard.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> I think that there needs to be an adjustment or some sort of an
equalizer to 
> give the
> rear wheels a little bit more grip than the front for stopping.
> This would help prevent the front tires from locking up.
> If there is a way to make the rear 60 and the front 40 then that
would make 
> a difference.
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 03:19:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: ATTN: Martin Gutkowski (or Canadians / Australians)



Apologies for contacting you broadband via the List -- I've lost your
eMail address...

Could you or Darren get your hands on a couple of used B27A or B28A
intake manifolds (carbureted)? I've searched online without success.
These may be junkyard items.

E and F series manifolds do not appear modifiable.

Thanks,

Bill Robertson
brobertson(at)carolina.net.










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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 19:29:22 -0800 (PST)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


> Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who
> owns a brake shop) told
> me that these were about the cheapest pads you could
> use, although Hervey 
> told me
> they were the "best available".

A person who only does brakes will sell you pads that
will last forever but may not be the best at stopping
your vehicle. Why? because they will offer things like
lifetime warrantees and won't want to pay on that
warranty on the off-chance you will remember and bring
it back. 
I'm not too concerned about that-- I don't mind
replacing pads every two years or so, I just want the
car to stop right. 
I don't like paying OEM premium prices for "soft" pads
(thinking about BMW, for one) but I don't want to mess
up what they've engineered to work right. Of course, I
haven't yet had to change the pads on the wife's
MINI....who-da-lolly can that car stop. And, wow, can
the 'S' go, too. 
Made me think about trading in the D for a few
minutes. But it's not ALL about the performance. I
like the uniqueness. I'd drive a Sunbeam (Tiger,
especially), too, but I wouldn't be quite as happy as
I am in the D.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 03:43:11 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Security


Yep. Several Decembers ago someone tried to do some Christmas "shoplifting" 
& broke into 4 cars at my condos, including my DeLorean.  They wiped out the 
driver's door windows, rummaged around inside, found nothing, moved on to 
the next car.  No one heard a thing, & the car was parked ~15ft from the 
nearest bed!!  They left some blood behind on my car- I hope they got blood 
poisoning!        Drive Stainless (Watch out for bad guys)       Robert    
VIN 6924
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Security
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 17:50:02 -0000




I am curious and would like to pose this question to the members.

Q: Has youare car ever been broken into or stolen?
Q: Was the motive theft or vandalism?

Now, I am not looking for vandal stories because we all know
about those... what I want to know is if anyone has actually
broken into the car for the purpose of maybe stealing the radio
or other contents or perhaps the car itself.
How did they do it?
Did they break the small window, the large part of the window?
Pick the lock?
Pry the door?

I would like to see what security measures are best for the car.

Your stories are anticipated.

- Videobob








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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 03:36:53 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)



Understanding the physics of brakes is complex enough but to address 
proper braking with cost will absolutely get you into trouble. Also, 
for proper function, ALL the mechanicals have to be in good order.

The biggest mistake you can make in my opinion is to move away from 
the original braking specs. Original brakes worked very well with 
good balance. Ok, the black dust is a pain. But, moving away from 
the original FF pad factor will screw the balance up big time. Drop 
in some EE pads (think "harder" pad - the friction properties are 
higher) in front and leave the FF pads in the rear and you can lock 
up the rears first. Then, in the water, you will find yourself 
looking at the guy about to "rear-end" you.

Using EE pads all around will usually result in increased pedal 
pressure and modulation screwed up. FF pads are often the less 
expensive but that was OEM. OEM pads usually go in about 15,000 
miles if I remember correctly - or less. I use some metallic FF pads 
that get about 20,000 miles and dust a lot less than the OEM. 

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all 
of my 
> calipers and pads from Hervey.
> Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake 
shop) told
> me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although 
Hervey 
> told me
> they were the "best available".
> I think that there needs to be an adjustment or some sort of an 
equalizer to 
> give the
> rear wheels a little bit more grip than the front for stopping.
> This would help prevent the front tires from locking up.
> If there is a way to make the rear 60 and the front 40 then that 
would make 
> a difference.
> 
> Also, no matter what I do I can't get the damned emergency brake 
to have any
> grip good enough to stop the car from rolling.
> I was given a failed inspection because they said the E-brake 
doesn't work.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> >From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In 
Year 'Round Use)
> >Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:18:39 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >The "best" way is to either try driving other Deloreans or have
> >someone else try yours and see if there is a difference. There are
> >always slight differences, for instance the pads you use matter. 
You
> >might have a stuck piston or maybe the brakes drag. There are 
pressure
> >testers you can buy and use to measure the force on the pads but 
they
> >are expensive and do not always give you enough information.
> >David Teitelbaum
> >vin 10757
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > >
> > > To be able to  lock up or not to lock up.  This brought up a
> >question in my
> > > mind that the brake system itself  in peoples cars might have
> >different holding
> > >& 6530
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 04:23:34 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lucas



At a British car show this summer in Toledo there was a man with a 
shirt that read "LUCAS, Prince of Darkness"

No one remembered to ask him where he got it. I'm sure everyone in 
the crowd didn't need any explanation for his shirt.


Joe







--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
>  
>  
> Motto of the Lucas Corp.
>  
> "Get home before dark."
> 
> Dē &  6530
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 04:16:37 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


A 60% rear to 40% front brake bias is absolutely the wrong thing
to do.  You will be spinning like a top.  Front brakes should 
ALWAYS lock up before the rears.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all of my 
> calipers and pads from Hervey. 
> Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake shop) told 
> me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although Hervey 
> told me 
> they were the "best available". 
> I think that there needs to be an adjustment or some sort of an equalizer to 
> give the 
> rear wheels a little bit more grip than the front for stopping. 
> This would help prevent the front tires from locking up. 
> If there is a way to make the rear 60 and the front 40 then that would make 
> a difference. 
> 
> Also, no matter what I do I can't get the damned emergency brake to have any 
> grip good enough to stop the car from rolling. 
> I was given a failed inspection because they said the E-brake doesn't work. 
> 
> Any suggestions? 
> 
> >From: "David Teitelbaum" 
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
> >Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use) 
> >Date: Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:18:39 -0000 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 22:25:20 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30


Scott, Here is a link that might help.
John Hervey
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20010101ov.html#M
ultigrades

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott McMullan [mailto:smcmullan_at_dml_gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 1:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30




I described this issue over the summer in detail on this list, using a
different email address.

I had my oil pressure gague's accuracy tested, and it was fine.

As long as I have 20w50 in there, everything works according to spec;
pressure reads in the normal range and behaves as expected (needle
just about horizontal at idle, and near the top of the range when
running pretty much anything over 1K RPM.

If I put lighter weight oil in, about 10 minutes after the engine is
at normal operating temperature, oil pressure at idle reads less than
half the normal idle pressure, and the longer I run the lower it goes,
almost reading zero after 45min or so of driving.  With the engine
over 1K RPM, the pressure is on the gague, but lower than normal.  The
oil pressure light NEVER comes on when the engine is operating.  I had
10W30 in there, then moved to 10W40, with no noticable improvement.
Change oil back to 20w50, and the oil pressure starts behaving
normally (although it was funky for the first 150 miles, like it was
working its way back to being OK).

While the engine was generally louder than normal with the lighter
weight oil, I don't recall any specific clattering that sounded
"wrong".

Maybe my engine had bad internal wear, I really don't know.  But I
*never* have any problems starting in the cold.  It was near freezing
on Thursday morning, and the engine fired right up on the 1st try, as
always.

I have never found anyone who could give me a good reason for this
behavior, I was just guessing at the oil pump.  One shop I consulted
when I first started having this problem (a friend of mine works
there) tried to tell me that the engine was probably shot, and putting
heavier oil in wouldn't help the symptom.  I found that hard to
believe with about 60K KM on the odometer... glad they were wrong.





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 04:35:52 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning the underbody



I use engine brite foaming engine cleaner, it gently gets ANY dirt 
and debris off. Regular doesn't work anywhere near as well. And 
while it is still foamy, I use a SOFT wheel brush, "a large meguiars 
one" to gently scrub the epoxy in all the nooks and crannies. Then I 
rinse it with regular hose pressure. I use that procedure for all 
underbody components. Then while it is still up in the air I place a 
fan under the car to air dry it. Then any other remnants of dirt can 
be swabbed up or polished off with paper towels, small rags & q-
tips. If your gonna do it, do it all the way. It takes several hours 
to do it perfect, and you'll get very dirty as the substance is 
hosed off (even when it is clean, the engine brite cleans it more) 
but after it is all done, the car will be immaculate underneath.

I'm a little OCD when it comes to vehicle cleanliness, but of all 
the methods, especially with the epoxy, this so far appears the best 
method.

Just my $0.02 I use the engine brite mainly because it is faster 
then individually soaking every component seperatley. Figure using 3 
cans minimum to do the whole underbody to complete cleanliness. 4 
wouldn't hurt.

Do it before it gets any colder out though, or you might freeze 
under there.


Joe OBrien

2524,
16634,
16851




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Would cleaning the underbody with a pressure washer on a lower 
> setting be advised? Is there a risk of damaging the epoxy? The 
epoxy 
> on my car is totally intact and Id like to keep it that way, any 
> suggestions?








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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 04:40:22 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



Actually the best way to avoid making changes to a concourse car if 
you want to drive one is to simply buy another Delorean.

Then you have one garage queen, and one you can just drive.


Joe OBrien


2524,
16634,
16851






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
>  So, I decided to change my tires. The tire dealer is a good 
friend 
> of mine, the only matching set of tires he could find were 
Michellin 
> XGT Pilots. Even though the NCT's hade exactly 485 miles on them 
> they were more dry rotted than I thought. Once removed, I stepped 
on 
> the sidewall of one of them and exposed a Huge crack between the 
> treads. They only thing I would recommend to you guys with 
original 
> tires or old ones is change them! I was kinda freaked, the last 
> thing anyone wants is to get killed or wreck their car because 
they 
> want to maintain its originality. I did keep the old tires though, 
> they are just going up on the shelves of my garage. It makes one 
> think though, about the keeping the car original. Im glad PJ Grady 
> performed all the recalls and electrical updates on the car, Id 
hate 
> to risk an electrical fire or whatever just because I was 
> considering keeping it 100% original. I hope Im not mis-informing 
> anyone about the updates but It was my impression that they cant 
be 
> performed if the car is to compete in competition.
>  As a side note, I had no idea the car would handle quite as good 
as 
> it does with the pilots.
> 
> Harry Vin#2696








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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 05:24:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



I too was holding out using the NCT's. I kept inspecting them but I
finally broke down and mounted the Pilots. I could not believe the
difference in the ride of the car. With the NCT's the ride was very
hard and bumpy. The Pilots were a completly different feel. After
taking the NCT's off I inspected the insides and they appear to be
alright visually. I can only guess that the sidwalls have lost their
flexability. The car holds the road better, rides smoother, tracks
straighter with no wobble. I won't go back to the NCT's unless I enter
a concours again! I do not think it is safe to drive on ANY tire that
is 20 years old.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
>  So, I decided to change my tires. The tire dealer is a good friend 
> of mine, the only matching set of tires he could find were Michellin 
>








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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 05:27:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What is it?



That is the wire connecting the O2 sensor. If the wire is too short
the emergency brake cable will hit it and knock it loose. Cut the wire
tie inside the frame and stretch the wire out and route it so it
doesn't get hit by the cable.  Clean the connecting ends up before
reconnecting. The connections should be clean, this is a very low
voltage circuit and any dirt (resistance) will affect it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
>  With the driver's rear tire off my car we noticed a wire off a 
> sensor that exited the tire flare in the wheel well. I reconnected 
> it but, what was it? I havent had the chance to look it up yet but 
>








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