From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2354
Date: Monday, December 06, 2004 12:59 AM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Upgrading the Air Filter
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

3. RE: Re: Brake Proportioning Valve
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

4. Re: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: Cleaning the underbody
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. Gullwing magzine
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. RE: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

11. RE: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. RE: Gullwing magzine
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: DMC Air Filter Housing
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: DMC CHristmas Party
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

21. Re: DMC Air Filter Housing
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Volvo F Series CO Values
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 05:51:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)



The harder the pad the more it will wear and groove the rotors. Too
aggressive a pad will also make more heat which will cause fade. The
origional engineers had to balance all this along with stopping
distances, economics, availability, and longevity. It is ALWAYS 
better to go with the OEM recomended product. Anything else and you
are now the test pilot. On the subject of the E brake first make sure
the cables actually move. Disconnect them at the e brake on each wheel
and see if they move when you pull the handle. If they do then you
might have to adjust the large screw on each wheel. The e brakes are
supposed to be self-adjusting Ha Ha!!! They don't. Tighten the large
screw and back off 3/4 turn. The rotor should turn without too much
drag and when you pull on the handle it should grab tight. I would not
want to have to try stopping from 65 MPH with it but it should do
something. Make sure the pads on the e brake are not worn out, you
will never hold if the metal is coming through. Cotter pin the large
screw after you finish adjusting it. Lube everything up good and it
should at least hold the car from rolling on level ground! You may
have to pull the 2 bolts that act like pins that the e brake pads
pivot on to lubricate them and make sure everything is moving. If the
cables won't move when you pull the handle you have to either get them
to move or replace them. You could install an adjustable proportioning
valve but you really need to know what you are doing with that. And
the thing will need to be adjusted depending on the road, the weather,
the car loading, temperature, etc. As for the movies they could have
addded a valve so they could lock up the front wheels without engaging
the back brakes. This is how on race cars you spin the rear tires to
warm them up before the race. You lock the front wheels and then step
on the gas. I hope you don't try to learn how to drive from watching
the movies!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all of my 
> calipers and pads from Hervey.
> Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake
shop) told
> me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although
Hervey 
> told me
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 06:48:41 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter



There have been a couple of posts mentioning that the engineers know
what they are doing and have all the resources and tools to put good
engines together. While I agree with this, isn't it also true that
they have to work within the constraints of the final cost of the car.
So wouldn't it be possible that the engineers would not put in a
better design, to gain horspower or efficiency, if it cost too much or
it added too much time to the assembly line or they just didn't have
enough development time to design something better.

Max
VIN 4819

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> And if you do things without measuring the results, you have no
> idea what you've got.
> 
> I don't trust the seat of anybody's pants...
> 
> What I am saying is that engines, brakes, transmissions, coolant 
> systems etc. are all designed as a system by experienced automotive
> engineers with access to tools that can conclusively show the impacts
> of a change to any part of the system.  Replacing bits and pieces 
> with aftermarket parts that were not specifically designed or tested 
> with the DeLorean with the intent of improving performance based on 
> the component manufacturer's claim is a gamble.
> 
> The Bosch +4 plug is a perfect example.  They don't improve 
> performance in every case.  In fact, they can reduce performance as 
> we have found for the Lotus 9xx engines.  The shape of the 
> combustion chamber, the placement of the plug, and the 
> characteristics of the spark make for less complete combustion
> than with the original equipment plugs.  
> 
> Mucking around with brakes and suspension is particularly
> risky if you don't understand the dynamics of the system.
> Increasing front brake capacity without adjusting the rear
> brake bias can make the car unstable under braking.  This
> increases the liklihood of locking up the front brakes.  Putting
> large diameter, low profile tires, lowering suspensions, 
> changing wheel offsets can have an adverse effect on handling.
> This is why a number of major insurance companies are refusing
> to honor claims for modified import cars.
> 
> I'm not saying that all aftermarket parts are snake oil.  There are 
> a lot of well designed systems that are built for specific applications
> that work quite well.  Often these systems are engineered with 
> the participation of the original manufacturer and are typically done 
> for markets that are much much larger than the DeLorean.  Expecting 
> those same parts to bolt on to the DeLorean and make the same
improvments
> is a stretch.
> 
> --
> Mike
 
 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 23:01:18 -0800
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Brake Proportioning Valve



V
> Bill Robertson Said:
> The "equalizer" you're looking for actually "unequalizes" the brakes.
> It's called a brake proportioning valve. 

Be careful. Many brake proportioning valves are designed to shift braking
force to the FRONT wheels.  Some are even designed to shift even more
braking force to the front wheels as you brake harder. Since the weight of
the car is transferring to the front during hard braking, that is where you
would want the extras force (in most cars).

The initial front/rear bias is usually established with different size
pistons in the master cylinder for the front and rear.

Gary
IN2TIME







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 11:29:30 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: European Owners, New Euro Sized Number Plate Bezel



Raphael,

I had some interesting feedback from the other lists I belong to and 
it sounds like his may be a tricky item to get right, lots of 
different rules for different contries etc...

Thanks for the info tho.


James RG

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael" <raf40_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi James
> 
> I shared the info on our French discussion board, any personn 
> interested will contact you.
> US license plates are not legal in France but they are tolerate as 
> long as they are yellow and the numbers have the correct 
> dimensions ;-) I will personnaly keep the original bezel, and even 
> plan to make my own plate from brushed aluminum with vinyl numbers 
> to match the body 
> 
> Thanks !
> Raphael









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 06:03:27 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car


One of the Concours cars that wins regularly is Chris Smith
Her car has about 20K on it and it is still spotless.  Mine had over  7K on 
it and has done well in not only the concours but at the ISCA events where  I 
usually place 1st or second in my class and I am going against people that  
have just rebuilt their cars for show only.
 
The D can be driven and still stay in great shape.  Just clean it when  you 
are done.
 
I like driving mine and while I have several I still like driving my  
concours one the best.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:54:33 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



Well said, Im working on that as we speak. does anyone have a 
Delorean with a blown drivetrain for sale?








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 06:57:43 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Cleaning the underbody


My advise would be to blast away. If there is loose epoxy you would want to
find it anyway. Just be careful of the rubber boots on the drive axles and
steering rack and of course the alternator and starter and the asbestos
shield around the cat and muffler.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: spaceace3113 [mailto:spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 2:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cleaning the underbody

Would cleaning the underbody with a pressure washer on a lower 
setting be advised? Is there a risk of damaging the epoxy? The epoxy 
on my car is totally intact and Id like to keep it that way, any 
suggestions?






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:22:46 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Gullwing magzine



Is gullwing magazine not putting out a calendar this year??

I'm all set to buy. The last one was very nice.

Rich A.
#5335








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 11:22:33 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30


I was going to comment on this thread several days ago and Bill has brought
my thoughts into the spotlight. Several of the previous posts indicated that
owners were using the oil pressure gauge to evaluate their oil pressure. As
Bill indicated the factory spec oil gauge sender is not an accurate
measurement of oil pressure. As most of you already know the gauge needle
will swing wildly between idle and non-idle conditions.   

Fortunately the PRV engine used in the DeLorean has virtually no oil
pressure related problems therefore the gauge issue has never been of
concern. Debates over oil have been around as long as the internal
combustion engine has been in existence and will probably be debated
forever. Owners who just follow the owners manual can feel safe. The engine
designers at Peugeot Renault Volvo know exactly what oil was best for their
engine, follow those guidelines and you PRV should perform flawlessly to at
least 250-300k miles.  

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 6:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Low Oil Pressure _at_dml_ 10W30

DeLo problem is in the sender, not the dash gauge. Mine was woefully
inaccurate until I replaced it with a vendor's xRef, which does drive the
gauge properly but unfortunately weeps oil at the spade connector (despite
my best efforts to seal it externally with every product imaginable).

Note that generic senders won't drive our dash gauge correctly because they
are usually calibrated to 100 max PSI.

Bill Robertson
#5939







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 11:50:41 -0500
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


David, In the movie I think that is exactly what they did. There is even
reference to it on Doc's remote control. He accelerates the car and the
wheels start spinning, he then flips a toggle on the remote to release the
brake and the car takes off.


Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 12:51 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


>
>
>
> The harder the pad the more it will wear and groove the rotors. Too
> aggressive a pad will also make more heat which will cause fade. The
> origional engineers had to balance all this along with stopping
> distances, economics, availability, and longevity. It is ALWAYS
> better to go with the OEM recomended product. Anything else and you
> are now the test pilot. On the subject of the E brake first make sure
> the cables actually move. Disconnect them at the e brake on each wheel
> and see if they move when you pull the handle. If they do then you
> might have to adjust the large screw on each wheel. The e brakes are
> supposed to be self-adjusting Ha Ha!!! They don't. Tighten the large
> screw and back off 3/4 turn. The rotor should turn without too much
> drag and when you pull on the handle it should grab tight. I would not
> want to have to try stopping from 65 MPH with it but it should do
> something. Make sure the pads on the e brake are not worn out, you
> will never hold if the metal is coming through. Cotter pin the large
> screw after you finish adjusting it. Lube everything up good and it
> should at least hold the car from rolling on level ground! You may
> have to pull the 2 bolts that act like pins that the e brake pads
> pivot on to lubricate them and make sure everything is moving. If the
> cables won't move when you pull the handle you have to either get them
> to move or replace them. You could install an adjustable proportioning
> valve but you really need to know what you are doing with that. And
> the thing will need to be adjusted depending on the road, the weather,
> the car loading, temperature, etc. As for the movies they could have
> addded a valve so they could lock up the front wheels without engaging
> the back brakes. This is how on race cars you spin the rear tires to
> warm them up before the race. You lock the front wheels and then step
> on the gas. I hope you don't try to learn how to drive from watching
> the movies!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> > well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all of my
> > calipers and pads from Hervey.
> > Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake
> shop) told
> > me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although
> Hervey
> > told me
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 11:56:30 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Upgrading the Air Filter


FYI: The air cleaner box used on the DeLorean was used in the Volvo PRV
engine set up. Therefore there were no budget or time constraints in their
design or development.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: bluemax86 [mailto:massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 1:49 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Upgrading the Air Filter




There have been a couple of posts mentioning that the engineers know what
they are doing and have all the resources and tools to put good engines
together. While I agree with this, isn't it also true that they have to work
within the constraints of the final cost of the car.
So wouldn't it be possible that the engineers would not put in a better
design, to gain horspower or efficiency, if it cost too much or it added too
much time to the assembly line or they just didn't have enough development
time to design something better.

Max
VIN 4819







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 14:39:05 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion


In a message dated 12/4/04 8:22:14 PM Central Standard Time, 
brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net writes:


>  Too often I've seen
> multi viscosity oil come out as two separate products during an oil
> change: thin watery stuff followed by thick gloppy stuff. I'm assuming
> that's the oil separating from its miracle additives.

Bill,

You are usually spot-on but I work in the oil and automotive industry and I 
would say I have changed oil on close to 45,000 cars and have never seen this 
happen.  What I HAVE seen before was gasoline coming out separately from the 
oil or antifreeze separately from the oil. Even transmission fluid separately! 
Never two oil parts separated.  I would suspect that there was another cause 
for separation and not due to the oil type being used.  

Just my own experience.
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:49:14 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



Actually, 

I wish we were having this conversation exactly a year ago. I was 
selling a mint condition 1981 with blown head gaskets. The car was 
basically perfect, only had 2,304 miles on it, but the drivetrain 
needed work. Other projects came up, so I had to sell it before I 
could finish work on it.

That car would have been the ideal candidate for Houston's engine 
upgrade. A perfect car with a new powerplant.

It has been rebuilt by the new owner and been driven daily since, so 
it is back on the road again.


Joe OBrien





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Well said, Im working on that as we speak. does anyone have a 
> Delorean with a blown drivetrain for sale?








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:42:59 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)



That was most likely a device similar to a line lock. You install 
them on cars to lock the front brakes so you can do burnouts as long 
as you want. Release the lock, and away you go. 

Just a movie prop, nothing to do with any real world driving effects.


Joe





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> David, In the movie I think that is exactly what they did. There 
is even
> reference to it on Doc's remote control. He accelerates the car 
and the
> wheels start spinning, he then flips a toggle on the remote to 
release the
> brake and the car takes off.
> 
> 
> Steve
> #2700
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 12:51 AM
> Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In 
Year 'Round Use)
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > The harder the pad the more it will wear and groove the rotors. 
Too
> > aggressive a pad will also make more heat which will cause fade. 
The
> > origional engineers had to balance all this along with stopping
> > distances, economics, availability, and longevity. It is ALWAYS
> > better to go with the OEM recomended product. Anything else and 
you
> > are now the test pilot. On the subject of the E brake first make 
sure
> > the cables actually move. Disconnect them at the e brake on each 
wheel
> > and see if they move when you pull the handle. If they do then 
you
> > might have to adjust the large screw on each wheel. The e brakes 
are
> > supposed to be self-adjusting Ha Ha!!! They don't. Tighten the 
large
> > screw and back off 3/4 turn. The rotor should turn without too 
much
> > drag and when you pull on the handle it should grab tight. I 
would not
> > want to have to try stopping from 65 MPH with it but it should do
> > something. Make sure the pads on the e brake are not worn out, 
you
> > will never hold if the metal is coming through. Cotter pin the 
large
> > screw after you finish adjusting it. Lube everything up good and 
it
> > should at least hold the car from rolling on level ground! You 
may
> > have to pull the 2 bolts that act like pins that the e brake pads
> > pivot on to lubricate them and make sure everything is moving. 
If the
> > cables won't move when you pull the handle you have to either 
get them
> > to move or replace them. You could install an adjustable 
proportioning
> > valve but you really need to know what you are doing with that. 
And
> > the thing will need to be adjusted depending on the road, the 
weather,
> > the car loading, temperature, etc. As for the movies they could 
have
> > addded a valve so they could lock up the front wheels without 
engaging
> > the back brakes. This is how on race cars you spin the rear 
tires to
> > warm them up before the race. You lock the front wheels and then 
step
> > on the gas. I hope you don't try to learn how to drive from 
watching
> > the movies!
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" 
<videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > >
> > > well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got 
all of my
> > > calipers and pads from Hervey.
> > > Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a 
brake
> > shop) told
> > > me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, 
although
> > Hervey
> > > told me
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:31:57 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Gullwing magzine


I just left a Delorean Midwest Coonection club meeting at which Ron Wester 
was present. He had a few of the new calendars with him. This is a nice 
calendar.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Gullwing magzine
>Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:22:46 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Is gullwing magazine not putting out a calendar this year??
>
>I'm all set to buy. The last one was very nice.
>
>Rich A.
>#5335
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:47:41 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)


Hey, some of the best drivers in the world drive as stunt men in the movies!
I think it is a great learning tool.

As a matter of fact, I am about to take my KNIGHT RIDER car out and jump
it over a 50' gap, and I am almost positive that when I land nose first that 
there
will not be a scratch on the car!
THat's the way it is in the TV show.
NOT.
(Heck, my KITT car can barely pull out of the driveway without ripping the 
nose off!)

- Videobob

PS- I asked Bob Gale how they made the DeLorean peel out, and he said they 
coated the rear
wheels with a type of oil that made them break loose.


>From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round 
>Use)
>Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 11:50:41 -0500
>
>
>
>David, In the movie I think that is exactly what they did. There is even
>reference to it on Doc's remote control. He accelerates the car and the
>wheels start spinning, he then flips a toggle on the remote to release the
>brake and the car takes off.
>
>
>Steve
>#2700
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 12:51 AM
>Subject: [DML] Re: locking up Michelins (was: DeLo's In Year 'Round Use)
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > The harder the pad the more it will wear and groove the rotors. Too
> > aggressive a pad will also make more heat which will cause fade. The
> > origional engineers had to balance all this along with stopping
> > distances, economics, availability, and longevity. It is ALWAYS
> > better to go with the OEM recomended product. Anything else and you
> > are now the test pilot. On the subject of the E brake first make sure
> > the cables actually move. Disconnect them at the e brake on each wheel
> > and see if they move when you pull the handle. If they do then you
> > might have to adjust the large screw on each wheel. The e brakes are
> > supposed to be self-adjusting Ha Ha!!! They don't. Tighten the large
> > screw and back off 3/4 turn. The rotor should turn without too much
> > drag and when you pull on the handle it should grab tight. I would not
> > want to have to try stopping from 65 MPH with it but it should do
> > something. Make sure the pads on the e brake are not worn out, you
> > will never hold if the metal is coming through. Cotter pin the large
> > screw after you finish adjusting it. Lube everything up good and it
> > should at least hold the car from rolling on level ground! You may
> > have to pull the 2 bolts that act like pins that the e brake pads
> > pivot on to lubricate them and make sure everything is moving. If the
> > cables won't move when you pull the handle you have to either get them
> > to move or replace them. You could install an adjustable proportioning
> > valve but you really need to know what you are doing with that. And
> > the thing will need to be adjusted depending on the road, the weather,
> > the car loading, temperature, etc. As for the movies they could have
> > addded a valve so they could lock up the front wheels without engaging
> > the back brakes. This is how on race cars you spin the rear tires to
> > warm them up before the race. You lock the front wheels and then step
> > on the gas. I hope you don't try to learn how to drive from watching
> > the movies!
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
>wrote:
> > >
> > > well, I don't know if it is an endorsement or not, but I got all of my
> > > calipers and pads from Hervey.
> > > Although the mechanic who helped me put them on (who owns a brake
> > shop) told
> > > me that these were about the cheapest pads you could use, although
> > Hervey
> > > told me
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 22:16:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: DMC Air Filter Housing



Absolutely correct (contemporary F series at least) -- only difference
is DMC placed a fancy sticker on theirs. Note that Volvo used the same
air filter housing after 1976 for B27F as well. Sometime in the late
1980's they moved the air filter to the driver's inner fender and ran
a tube to the fuel/air mixture unit.

DeLorean simply used bone stock Volvo B28F's with the following mods:
- Removed one of the centrifugal advance counterweight springs and
advanced base ignition time from 10 to 13 degrees BTDC. Otherwise
ignition distributor is identical
- Monkeyed with the idle speed ECU to lower CIS from 900 to 750 RPM.
Otherwise all system components are identical
- Lambda was left unchanged (.7 to 1.3% CO is Volvo F spec)
- Omitted the smog pump and air injection ports in the exhaust manifolds
- Omitted EGR (that's what the plate covered port in the U pipes is for)
- Omitted any auxiliary vacuum pump (Volvo equipped some cars with
one, bolted to cylinder 1-3 valve cover and driven by the cam)
- Substituted a very common Sankyo (Sanden) A/C compressor for Volvo's
larger unit, otherwise in the same location
- Relocated the alternator, which required a different adjusting bolt
boss, but 70 amp Motorola unit is otherwise identical to Volvo
- Pressed a single belt pulley onto the water pump shaft in lieu of
Volvo's bolt on double belt pulley (pressed on bolt flange)
- Used a proprietary crankshaft pulley with smaller outside groove to
prevent A/C belt interference with the water pump pulley
- Used a proprietary oil pressure gauge sending unit

Hardly a legacy of advanced engineering.

When I first entered DeLo ownership, I too subscribed to the common
misconception that our little silver cars are powered by exotic
engines, radically dissimilar to any other automotive powerplants.
Have since learned better. Not only did Douvrin crank out nearly 1
million units, but the design is actually quite conventional (albeit
quirky).

Note also that, south of the intake manifold, my current carbureted
PRV is every bit as much B28F as a factory DeLorean, sans undrilled
fuel injector ports of course (and the ignition distributor does have
both counterweights).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> FYI: The air cleaner box used on the DeLorean was used in the Volvo PRV
> engine set up. Therefore there were no budget or time constraints in
their
> design or development.
> 
> DMC Joe 
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 22:29:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: An oil question (was) Re: oil discussion



True, this has been from other people's cars (sometimes beyond a
20,000 mile interval) so there's no telling what's going on inside
their engines. I've never encountered such from my own vehicles, but
then I do burn SAE 30 exclusively...

My AMC does tick & clatter on 10W oil, but it's burning a GM 151
(inline 4) with 150,000 miles. No telling how far past a reasonable
service life that poor General Motors engine is...

My F150 with Ford's 300 (inline 6) just turned 205,000...

(I don't think I could have replied to your post without the invention
of elipses...)

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> You are usually spot-on but I work in the oil and automotive
industry and I 
> would say I have changed oil on close to 45,000 cars and have never
seen this 
> happen.  What I HAVE seen before was gasoline coming out separately
from the 
> oil or antifreeze separately from the oil. Even transmission fluid
separately! 
> Never two oil parts separated.  I would suspect that there was
another cause 
> for separation and not due to the oil type being used.  
> 
> Just my own experience.
> Andy
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:08:15 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: DMC CHristmas Party


We just came from this years Delorean Midwest Connection Xmas party.  It 
was really great.  

Jay?  managed to get copies of the original news reports about the 
Delorean and Delorean dealers in chicago. They were very positive.  Ken 
should
show these at DCS 2006.  


BOB






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2004 01:17:48 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Dangerous vanities of a concourse car



I sometimes think the tires get more attention than really warranted 
for concours events, and there may be opportunity to clarify this a 
little for future events through further manual refinements. There 
are only 4 points total (out of 300) allocated to tires in the 
competition, so a car that shows up without any tires at all would 
loose 4 points. I haven't seen this yet, but with the amount of work 
that goes into tires for the measly 4 points involved, I sometimes 
wonder when we might see the first car without tires compete.

I don't immediately recal the specifics, but my recollection is that 
having good non-original tires on the car calls for a guidance of 
half points off (2 points). With old NCT's, the same 2 points can 
also readily be lost as a result of tire condition 
(checking/cracking, etc). There have also been cases of great 
condition NCT's seeing deductions as a result of them not being 
prepared as well as they could be, etc.

I have a car that I'm preparing for the day when I might also get a 
chance to compete, and I dumped the original NCTs in favor of new 
tires that I feel are safe yet attractive. In practice the points 
involved in doing so is not make-or-break and I'll make up the point 
or two by setting the proper time on the console clock and 
addressing other details.

The concours event is won by getting more points than the other 
competitors. It's not won by the last guy to still have rotting 
NCT's on his car.

     Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I too was holding out using the NCT's. I kept inspecting them but I
> finally broke down and mounted the Pilots.
<snip>
> I do not think it is safe to drive on ANY tire that
> is 20 years old.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2004 01:25:10 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Air Filter Housing





> - Lambda was left unchanged (.7 to 1.3% CO is Volvo F spec)<

While I normally ignore much of the huge amounts of wrong information 
on the list I couldn't let this one pass. Any properly functioning 
Lambda system will not allow this high a CO content. The value 
mentioned is for set up of primary mixture in open loop. Any CO of 1% 
or higher will leave a cat converter O2 starved and unable to 
function. Put any decent gas analyzer on a Delorean and if you see CO 
anywhere near that level you have problems. Put a 4 or 5 gas NDIR 
optical bench on it and you can see where the problem lies. The 
Delorean doesn't need EGR because it's NOx values fall within limits 
for that year as long as the engine operates at the correct 
combustion temperatures.

As an emissions tech I'm continually surprised at how poorly people 
understand emission controls on any car, even a car whose controls 
are as simple as this one. Pre-OBD I cars like the Delorean are easy 
to tune and should always maintain a Lambda of 1 during operation 
other than transient conditions, cold enrichment or WOT if everything 
is working correctly. It's mathematically impossible to have a Lambda 
of 1 with a CO content of .7% and if you see that during closed loop 
something is wrong. You should never adjust the mixture screw during 
closed loop because you're wasting your time. All you'll do is push 
the mixture outside the operating window of the emission control 
system with resulting damage to the converter and increased 
emissions. As an aside if you decide to defeat the system and set 
mixture for best power you need to remove the converter.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2004 03:39:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo F Series CO Values



I'm looking right at a Volvo factory manual (CI Fuel System, B27 B28 E/F):

Page 102:

"Check CO content

B27F   1976               1.4-2.0%
       1977 USA Calif     .04-1.0%
       1977 USA Fed       .07-1.3%
       1977 Canada        1.4-2.0%
       1978-1979          .07-1.3%
B28F   1980-1982          .07-1.3%"

I'll try to get it scanned tomorrow.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > - Lambda was left unchanged (.7 to 1.3% CO is Volvo F spec)<
> 
> While I normally ignore much of the huge amounts of wrong information 
> on the list I couldn't let this one pass. Any properly functioning 
> Lambda system will not allow this high a CO content. The value 
> mentioned is for set up of primary mixture in open loop. Any CO of 1% 
> or higher will leave a cat converter O2 starved and unable to 
> function. Put any decent gas analyzer on a Delorean and if you see CO 
> anywhere near that level you have problems. Put a 4 or 5 gas NDIR 
> optical bench on it and you can see where the problem lies. The 
> Delorean doesn't need EGR because it's NOx values fall within limits 
> for that year as long as the engine operates at the correct 
> combustion temperatures.
> 
> As an emissions tech I'm continually surprised at how poorly people 
> understand emission controls on any car, even a car whose controls 
> are as simple as this one. Pre-OBD I cars like the Delorean are easy 
> to tune and should always maintain a Lambda of 1 during operation 
> other than transient conditions, cold enrichment or WOT if everything 
> is working correctly. It's mathematically impossible to have a Lambda 
> of 1 with a CO content of .7% and if you see that during closed loop 
> something is wrong. You should never adjust the mixture screw during 
> closed loop because you're wasting your time. All you'll do is push 
> the mixture outside the operating window of the emission control 
> system with resulting damage to the converter and increased 
> emissions. As an aside if you decide to defeat the system and set 
> mixture for best power you need to remove the converter.








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