From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2373
Date: Friday, December 17, 2004 1:38 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: SonnyV Question - James Espey.
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com

2. RE: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Re: Tire Replacement
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

4. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

6. SS Louvers
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>

9. Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

11. RE: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. RE: SS Louvers
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: What's with the glug glug noise?
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

15. Re: Turn signal loads for LED's
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Downunder contact
From: "deloreansailor" <johnjarvis_at_dml_clear.net.nz>

17. New DeLorean story.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

18. Re: DMC houston video question
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Finally, I got my DeLorean home! + tech info
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

20. WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

21. Let's talk about that infamous fender.
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

23. Re: WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>

25. Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 13:43:58 -0000
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: SonnyV Question - James Espey.


[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Parties that are particularly interested in this
should consider directly touching base with the principal parties
involved, since some of the questions around this are probably not going
to be addressed by anyone else.]

Hi,

We have been patiently waiting for an explaination from James 
Espey/DMC Houston on the SonnyV issue. The query was put forward 
nearly 2 weeks ago, but so far it seems he/they are hoping this will 
just go away.
Is there ever going to be a response to this? If not, what is the 
position of the moderators? Are James or DMCHouston going to be 
allowed advertise here in future? 
I think the group deserves an explaination, or if this is all true, 
an apology. 
I for one find it very annoying that DMC Houston might be promoting 
themselves under a false alias, posing as a happy customer -it 
doesn't say much for their faith in our collective intelligence that 
they would try to do this. As a customer of theirs and a member of 
this list since around 1996, I am not happy with this situation.

Thanks,

John Dore
Ireland.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> [MODERATOR NOTE] - this has been held up a bit for further 
consideration and research  due to its somewhat personal and 
potentially inflammatory nature, but we've decided to proceed. 
Replies will be conservatively moderated and random conjecture 
deleted.]
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> 
> On Nov 19, there was a message posted to the DML
> signed by James Espey.
> 
> http://www.projectvixen.com/dmcnews-archive/msg10116.html
> 
> It was later pointed out to me by someone that this
> message was sent from "sonnyvr2000". For some reason,
> this message has been removed from the Yahoo archives.
> 
> Later in the day, a similar message was posted by
> James:
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/46806
> 
> And, 3 more messages by Sonnyvr2000:
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/46798
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/46799
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/46800
> 
> 
> All four of the messages sent by Sonnyvr2000 came from
> the same IP address, an address that is in common with
> posts made by James from DMCH.
> 
> No big deal, because Sonny said he was in Houston
> getting work done on his car. It is possible he was
> using a computer at DMCH to send those posts before he
> returned to his home in Springfield, MO.
> 
> Searching the DML Yahoo archives, it became obvious
> that most of the posts made by Sonnyvr2000 have been
> removed! The only record of any posts made by this
> person are in quoted responses to his posts. Why is
> this?
> 
> The only one I found was post 39097, which came from
> an IP address in Houston, TX. It also happens to be on
> the same ISP as DMCH uses (rr.com). But Sonny claims
> he lives in MO. I remember James once saying he was
> from or had family in MO.
> 
> So, I took a look at some e-mail archives of the DML
> from 6/15/2001 to 9/30/2004, and searched for all sent
> by sonnyvr2000
> 
> DATE SUBJECT IP
> 7/24/03 Re: Stainless Steel Ill 24.173.4.228
> 8/5/03 windshield antenna 24.173.4.228
> 8/13/03 Monroes and Gabriels 24.173.4.228
> 8/20/03 100404 Wheel bearings ! 24.173.4.228
> 9/4/03 Cleaner/Sealer 24.173.4.228
> 10/16/03Re: Door struts and do 24.173.4.228
> 12/1/03 Who wears XXXL? 24.173.4.228
> 1/7/04 Refurbished Fascias 200.9.59.10
> 1/12/04 Permacast wheels? 24.173.4.228
> 2/22/04 New angle drive receiv 24.242.224.139
> 3/7/04 DMCH's performance eng 24.242.228.133
> 3/8/04 DMCH's performance eng 24.173.4.228
> 3/11/04 clutch release bearing 24.173.4.228
> 3/11/04 Exhaust note of DMCH E 24.173.4.228
> 3/29/04 angle drive update 24.173.4.228
> 
> I included the subjects so you can all see the content
> of these messages in your own archives, or at
> http://www.projectvixen.com because they have been
> removed from the Yahoo archives. Please look at the
> content and evaluate for yourself.
> 
> The bulk of the mail came from 24.173.4.228, which
> also happens to be the same IP address most of James
> Espey posts come from. Do a search of the Yahoo
> archives for that address and you will see.
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/messagesearch?
query=24.173.4.228
> 
> Furthermore (thanks Dave):
> 
> 24.173.4.X (24.173.0.0/16) belongs to Roadrunner
> (southeast).  Roadrunner is available in MO, but only
> in Kansas City, not Springfield.
> 
> 24.242.224.139 and 24.242.228.133 both resolve DNS to
> names with "houston.rr.com"
> 
> 200.9.59.10 (200.9.48.0/20) belongs to Instituto
> Costarricense de Electricidad y Telecom, based in San
> Jose, Costa Rica
> 
> On 1/7/04 Sonny sent an email from 200.9.59.10, on the
> same day James sent an email from 200.9.59.10 as well.
> 
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/38076?source=1
> 
> 
> Assuming Sonnyvr2000 is a real person, why is it that
> his posts are all missing from the official Yahoo
> archives? And he sure does spend an awful lot of time
> at DMCH, Odd for a guy who lives 700 miles away in
> Springfield, MO (?), and seems to know a lot about
> DeLoreans. Almost as much as someone who works for a
> DeLorean vendor.
> 
> But, he asked for shipping estimates to Farmington, MO
> 63640 which is over 800 miles from Humble, TX.
> 
> (look _at_dml_ the quoted text at the bottom)
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/38079
> 
> I would conclude that SonnyV is someone at DMCH. But,
> is SonnyV a real person?
> 
> In the past 2 weeks, a few members of the DML have
> been talking about this topic off line. The purpose of
> getting others involved before "going public" was to
> verify the information to be correct, and make a fair
> decision on how to proceed.
> 
> I feel the group was unbiased, and we wrestled with
> the pros and cons on what action to take. We concluded
> that someone at DMCH was likely posing as "Sonny", and
> decided that it was wrong to condone this behavior by
> allowing it to remain hidden/be erased and that no one
> in the DeLorean community should allow such to go
> unnoticed. Ultimately, we decided to let the community
> see and think for themselves as to what, if anything,
> should be done.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:50:27 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions


Since we are in the thick of this topic, I would like to talk about the way 
my car rides.
My automatic shifts like a mule just kicked you.
It winds way up and then jerks into gear with a slow slingshot effect.

One of my main problems is that it will not shift into 3rd until it is 
warmed up good.
If I take off on a cold day, I will have to drive in 1st gear for a while 
otherwise it
will slip gear and the motor will just spin until I put it into first and it 
will catch.
Once I get it up to a high RPM I can shift up to 2nd and it will go, but if 
I put it in
3rd it will just slip, unless I get on the highway and punch it.
Once I get going real fast, lets say 70 in 2nd gear then I can usually put 
it in 3rd
and it will catch....but sometimes it will simply drop back and forth from 
2nd to 3rd.
Once the car is warmed up and finally drives smooth in 3rd, it will stay 
like that as long
as you are driving it around.

I have had people look at the trans fluid and smell it, and although it is 
still red they tell
me it smells burned, and I have been told not to replace the fluid because 
if I do
it will melt the inside of my transmission.
Of course Stephen Wynne told me that was BS and to go ahead and do it.
So I don't know who to believe.
But as far as I know the car has never had a trans service in 35K of life, 
but I am
afraid to do it.
I just dont know what to do about it because I can not afford to send it to 
Stegar.
I have had local trans shops tell me that they can rebuild it for me for 
about $800
but of course Stegar and Grady both tell me that these trans shops only
"think they know what they are looking at" and "could not possibly do it for 
that".

All I know is that I have a serious problem with the transmission and it is 
running like crap
because of it, it is robbing me of power and making me rev the engine too 
much.
On cold mornings like we have had lately, I need to warm up the car for 
about 20
minutes before I can drive it.

So what should I do?

- Videobob

>From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
>Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:28:12 -0000
>
>
>
>
>An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in
>really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost
>unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or
>jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything
>along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down shifting
>at coasting to stops or stopping. Down shifting from throttle
>response is firm but smooth and up shift the same - I try never to
>let the trans have to go through two gear shifts at once - i.e.
>first to third or third to first (I just visualize too much stuff
>going on in there for the by-pass of gears to be good for it).
>
>To get what I consider a really smooth trans took me a few years of
>working with an auto trans that was abused in its early years and
>run for some time with the computer screwed up.
>
>Three critical adjustments: The trans throttle cable, the computer
>working correctly and the vacuum module. And, the engine has to be
>working and idling correctly. In terms of problem areas I'd say
>first computer, then engine running correctly, throttle adjustment,
>vacuum module. Last, trans internals.
>
>The whine - is it in first or at the shift 1-2 only? That sounds
>like a trans filter clogged up or air in the system. Have you
>serviced the trans lately? The harsh down shift is a symptom of a
>faulty computer but an engine with a fast idle or slow to idle
>symptom will cause a similar issue.
>
>Diagnosing a D trans is really an art as much as a science in my
>experience. But, you have to be sure you're dealing with one problem
>not two or more. That requires checking everything one at a time.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
><hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >
> > Hey everyone,
> >
> > A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
> > to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
> > automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
> > 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
> > supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
> > shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
> > barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
> > temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
> > on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
> > transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
> > feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
> > almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
> > and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
> > don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
> >
> > One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
> > in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
> > when going from first to second.  This is if the car
> > is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
> > warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
> > noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
> > this anything to take note about, or is this just how
> > the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
> > 25 degrees?
> >
> > Thank you for your time.
> >
> > Jeremiah
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> > http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 13:57:23 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Re: Tire Replacement


On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, therealdmcvegas wrote:

> I don't know how the lower profile tires such as these would affect the
> handling of the DeLorean. Do the improve performance, because they

Lower-profile tires basically always improve handling, all other things 
being equal.  Things that might not be equal are the quality of the tire 
used, and the weight of the new wheel.  Getting rid of 14" wheels makes it 
a lot easier to get good quality tires.  So that is going to be an 
improvement right there.

If the wheel weighs more, the suspension has to work harder to keep it on 
the road, and the engine has to work harder to accelerate it.  Because 
wheels have angular momentum (spinning) as well as linear momentum (moving 
ahead), each pound of weight on the wheel affects performance far more 
than an extra pound of weight anywhere else.  A good rule of thumb is that 
one pound on the wheel is worth four pounds on the car.

Of course, larger wheels can weigh a little more than stock wheels without 
hurting anything, because the lower profile tires make up for it by 
weighing less.  But if they weigh too much more, it starts to detract.

None of this is likely to matter if you are driving on the street in the
conventional way.  You are much more likely to notice if you have replaced
the stock wheels with new ones that have the wrong offset or backspacing.  
Then your handling would be noticeably worse.






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:09:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



I forgot to mention you should check that the vacuum line to the
vacuum modulater is hooked up and not leaking. The vacuum modulater
sets the line pressure and lowers it for shifting so the shifts are a
little softer. Actually hard, firm shifts are better for the clutch
packs, as long as they are not too abrupt. If they are really hard
then you could overstress mechanical parts like the drums and shafts.
That is what the modulater is supposed to do, ease you into another
gear. The problem with smooth shifts is that you are really in 2 gears
at once with the clutch packs slipping. This causes heat and wear on
the friction plates in the clutch packs. You should do a through
external visual inspection and go over all the external adjustments as
per the Workshop Manual. Don't forget, on the automatic there is a
separate resovoir for the final drive. You have to remove the level
plug on the side of the transmission to check the level in the final
drive. It gets 85-90W gear oil, NOT TRANSMISSION FLUID! 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in 
> really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost 
> unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or 
> jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything 
> along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down shifting 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:41:43 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions


Bob,

If your trans is burnt, then the rubber seals have hardened and until 
they warm up they will not seal.

However, the hard shifting sounds more like the proportioning valve is 
not working properly.  Have you ever replaced the computer?  It may be 
you proportioning valve is not working right because of a bad computer.

BOB

On Dec 16, 2004, at 12:50 PM, Videobob Moseley wrote:

>
>
> Since we are in the thick of this topic, I would like to talk about 
> the way
> my car rides.
> My automatic shifts like a mule just kicked you.
> It winds way up and then jerks into gear with a slow slingshot effect.
>
> One of my main problems is that it will not shift into 3rd until it is
> warmed up good.
> If I take off on a cold day, I will have to drive in 1st gear for a 
> while
> otherwise it
> will slip gear and the motor will just spin until I put it into first 
> and it
> will catch.
> Once I get it up to a high RPM I can shift up to 2nd and it will go, 
> but if
> I put it in
> 3rd it will just slip, unless I get on the highway and punch it.
> Once I get going real fast, lets say 70 in 2nd gear then I can usually 
> put
> it in 3rd
> and it will catch....but sometimes it will simply drop back and forth 
> from
> 2nd to 3rd.
> Once the car is warmed up and finally drives smooth in 3rd, it will 
> stay
> like that as long
> as you are driving it around.
>
> I have had people look at the trans fluid and smell it, and although 
> it is
> still red they tell
> me it smells burned, and I have been told not to replace the fluid 
> because
> if I do
> it will melt the inside of my transmission.
> Of course Stephen Wynne told me that was BS and to go ahead and do it.
> So I don't know who to believe.
> But as far as I know the car has never had a trans service in 35K of 
> life,
> but I am
> afraid to do it.
> I just dont know what to do about it because I can not afford to send 
> it to
> Stegar.
> I have had local trans shops tell me that they can rebuild it for me 
> for
> about $800
> but of course Stegar and Grady both tell me that these trans shops only
> "think they know what they are looking at" and "could not possibly do 
> it for
> that".
>
> All I know is that I have a serious problem with the transmission and 
> it is
> running like crap
> because of it, it is robbing me of power and making me rev the engine 
> too
> much.
> On cold mornings like we have had lately, I need to warm up the car for
> about 20
> minutes before I can drive it.
>
> So what should I do?
>
> - Videobob
>
>> From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>> Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
>> Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:28:12 -0000
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in
>> really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost
>> unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or
>> jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything
>> along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down shifting
>> at coasting to stops or stopping. Down shifting from throttle
>> response is firm but smooth and up shift the same - I try never to
>> let the trans have to go through two gear shifts at once - i.e.
>> first to third or third to first (I just visualize too much stuff
>> going on in there for the by-pass of gears to be good for it).
>>
>> To get what I consider a really smooth trans took me a few years of
>> working with an auto trans that was abused in its early years and
>> run for some time with the computer screwed up.
>>
>> Three critical adjustments: The trans throttle cable, the computer
>> working correctly and the vacuum module. And, the engine has to be
>> working and idling correctly. In terms of problem areas I'd say
>> first computer, then engine running correctly, throttle adjustment,
>> vacuum module. Last, trans internals.
>>
>> The whine - is it in first or at the shift 1-2 only? That sounds
>> like a trans filter clogged up or air in the system. Have you
>> serviced the trans lately? The harsh down shift is a symptom of a
>> faulty computer but an engine with a fast idle or slow to idle
>> symptom will cause a similar issue.
>>
>> Diagnosing a D trans is really an art as much as a science in my
>> experience. But, you have to be sure you're dealing with one problem
>> not two or more. That requires checking everything one at a time.
>>
>> Harold McElraft - 3354
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
>> <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey everyone,
>>>
>>> A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
>>> to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
>>> automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
>>> 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
>>> supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
>>> shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
>>> barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
>>> temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
>>> on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
>>> transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
>>> feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
>>> almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
>>> and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
>>> don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
>>>
>>> One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
>>> in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
>>> when going from first to second.  This is if the car
>>> is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
>>> warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
>>> noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
>>> this anything to take note about, or is this just how
>>> the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
>>> 25 degrees?
>>>
>>> Thank you for your time.
>>>
>>> Jeremiah
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> __________________________________
>>> Do you Yahoo!?
>>> Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
>>> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 21:02:15 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: SS Louvers



 Could anybody tell where I can get SS louvers? I think that they're 
pretty cool looking.  Also as anyone ever seen ss side view mirrors?  
Thanks.  -Josh








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:45:02 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



Sounds like the computer is shot and the fluid is LOW. Don't be 
afraid to run the fluid up to the full mark when the trans is COLD. 
I would get a new computer or at least let Hervey do his thing to it 
before I drove it another foot. Also, Stephen, Don and Rob are 
correct - not the local boys, just look at the collective DeLorean 
experience talking to you.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> Since we are in the thick of this topic, I would like to talk 
about the way 
> my car rides.
> My automatic shifts like a mule just kicked you.
> It winds way up and then jerks into gear with a slow slingshot 
effect.
> 
> One of my main problems is that it will not shift into 3rd until 
it is 
> warmed up good.
> If I take off on a cold day, I will have to drive in 1st gear for 
a while 
> otherwise it
> will slip gear and the motor will just spin until I put it into 
first and it 
> will catch.
> Once I get it up to a high RPM I can shift up to 2nd and it will 
go, but if 
> I put it in
> 3rd it will just slip, unless I get on the highway and punch it.
> Once I get going real fast, lets say 70 in 2nd gear then I can 
usually put 
> it in 3rd
> and it will catch....but sometimes it will simply drop back and 
forth from 
> 2nd to 3rd.
> Once the car is warmed up and finally drives smooth in 3rd, it 
will stay 
> like that as long
> as you are driving it around.
> 
> I have had people look at the trans fluid and smell it, and 
although it is 
> still red they tell
> me it smells burned, and I have been told not to replace the fluid 
because 
> if I do
> it will melt the inside of my transmission.
> Of course Stephen Wynne told me that was BS and to go ahead and do 
it.
> So I don't know who to believe.
> But as far as I know the car has never had a trans service in 35K 
of life, 
> but I am
> afraid to do it.
> I just dont know what to do about it because I can not afford to 
send it to 
> Stegar.
> I have had local trans shops tell me that they can rebuild it for 
me for 
> about $800
> but of course Stegar and Grady both tell me that these trans shops 
only
> "think they know what they are looking at" and "could not possibly 
do it for 
> that".
> 
> All I know is that I have a serious problem with the transmission 
and it is 
> running like crap
> because of it, it is robbing me of power and making me rev the 
engine too 
> much.
> On cold mornings like we have had lately, I need to warm up the 
car for 
> about 20
> minutes before I can drive it.
> 
> So what should I do?
> 
> - Videobob
> 
> >From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
> >Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:28:12 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in
> >really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost
> >unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or
> >jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything
> >along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down 
shifting
> >at coasting to stops or stopping. Down shifting from throttle
> >response is firm but smooth and up shift the same - I try never to
> >let the trans have to go through two gear shifts at once - i.e.
> >first to third or third to first (I just visualize too much stuff
> >going on in there for the by-pass of gears to be good for it).
> >
> >To get what I consider a really smooth trans took me a few years 
of
> >working with an auto trans that was abused in its early years and
> >run for some time with the computer screwed up.
> >
> >Three critical adjustments: The trans throttle cable, the computer
> >working correctly and the vacuum module. And, the engine has to be
> >working and idling correctly. In terms of problem areas I'd say
> >first computer, then engine running correctly, throttle 
adjustment,
> >vacuum module. Last, trans internals.
> >
> >The whine - is it in first or at the shift 1-2 only? That sounds
> >like a trans filter clogged up or air in the system. Have you
> >serviced the trans lately? The harsh down shift is a symptom of a
> >faulty computer but an engine with a fast idle or slow to idle
> >symptom will cause a similar issue.
> >
> >Diagnosing a D trans is really an art as much as a science in my
> >experience. But, you have to be sure you're dealing with one 
problem
> >not two or more. That requires checking everything one at a time.
> >
> >Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
> ><hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey everyone,
> > >
> > > A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
> > > to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
> > > automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
> > > 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
> > > supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
> > > shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
> > > barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
> > > temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
> > > on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
> > > transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
> > > feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
> > > almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
> > > and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
> > > don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
> > >
> > > One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
> > > in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
> > > when going from first to second.  This is if the car
> > > is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
> > > warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
> > > noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
> > > this anything to take note about, or is this just how
> > > the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
> > > 25 degrees?
> > >
> > > Thank you for your time.
> > >
> > > Jeremiah
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> > > http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 00:04:07 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



My D shifts like any other auto IMHO, it's not light but it's not 
hard either.  It's been my observation that when they shift poorly 
either too soft or hard something is very very wrong inside. It may 
not fail for quite some time but when it does the damage will have 
been preventable by just pulling the trans and fixing/adjusting 
what's needed in the first place. That being said also check and make 
sure your computer is shifting properly.

Matt Stits,
Vin 0789 Currently for sale.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
> to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
> automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
> 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
> supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
> shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
> barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
> temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
> on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
> transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
> feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
> almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
> and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
> don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
> 
> One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
> in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
> when going from first to second.  This is if the car
> is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
> warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
> noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
> this anything to take note about, or is this just how
> the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
> 25 degrees?
> 
> Thank you for your time.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 22:09:12 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions


No, I have never done anything to it, I know it was better a year ago when I 
got the car
but I have slowly lost a lot of my power as the trans slips.

Can any local tranny shop who is familiar with Volvos work on this 
transmission?
Does it need to be rebuilt?
Should I change the fluid?
What should I do about it, and if I do nothing what will happen?

-VB

>From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
>Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 17:41:43 -0600
>
>
>
>Bob,
>
>If your trans is burnt, then the rubber seals have hardened and until
>they warm up they will not seal.
>
>However, the hard shifting sounds more like the proportioning valve is
>not working properly.  Have you ever replaced the computer?  It may be
>you proportioning valve is not working right because of a bad computer.
>
>BOB
>
>On Dec 16, 2004, at 12:50 PM, Videobob Moseley wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Since we are in the thick of this topic, I would like to talk about
> > the way
> > my car rides.
> > My automatic shifts like a mule just kicked you.
> > It winds way up and then jerks into gear with a slow slingshot effect.
> >
> > One of my main problems is that it will not shift into 3rd until it is
> > warmed up good.
> > If I take off on a cold day, I will have to drive in 1st gear for a
> > while
> > otherwise it
> > will slip gear and the motor will just spin until I put it into first
> > and it
> > will catch.
> > Once I get it up to a high RPM I can shift up to 2nd and it will go,
> > but if
> > I put it in
> > 3rd it will just slip, unless I get on the highway and punch it.
> > Once I get going real fast, lets say 70 in 2nd gear then I can usually
> > put
> > it in 3rd
> > and it will catch....but sometimes it will simply drop back and forth
> > from
> > 2nd to 3rd.
> > Once the car is warmed up and finally drives smooth in 3rd, it will
> > stay
> > like that as long
> > as you are driving it around.
> >
> > I have had people look at the trans fluid and smell it, and although
> > it is
> > still red they tell
> > me it smells burned, and I have been told not to replace the fluid
> > because
> > if I do
> > it will melt the inside of my transmission.
> > Of course Stephen Wynne told me that was BS and to go ahead and do it.
> > So I don't know who to believe.
> > But as far as I know the car has never had a trans service in 35K of
> > life,
> > but I am
> > afraid to do it.
> > I just dont know what to do about it because I can not afford to send
> > it to
> > Stegar.
> > I have had local trans shops tell me that they can rebuild it for me
> > for
> > about $800
> > but of course Stegar and Grady both tell me that these trans shops only
> > "think they know what they are looking at" and "could not possibly do
> > it for
> > that".
> >
> > All I know is that I have a serious problem with the transmission and
> > it is
> > running like crap
> > because of it, it is robbing me of power and making me rev the engine
> > too
> > much.
> > On cold mornings like we have had lately, I need to warm up the car for
> > about 20
> > minutes before I can drive it.
> >
> > So what should I do?
> >
> > - Videobob
> >
> >> From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
> >> Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >> Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
> >> Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:28:12 -0000
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in
> >> really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost
> >> unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or
> >> jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything
> >> along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down shifting
> >> at coasting to stops or stopping. Down shifting from throttle
> >> response is firm but smooth and up shift the same - I try never to
> >> let the trans have to go through two gear shifts at once - i.e.
> >> first to third or third to first (I just visualize too much stuff
> >> going on in there for the by-pass of gears to be good for it).
> >>
> >> To get what I consider a really smooth trans took me a few years of
> >> working with an auto trans that was abused in its early years and
> >> run for some time with the computer screwed up.
> >>
> >> Three critical adjustments: The trans throttle cable, the computer
> >> working correctly and the vacuum module. And, the engine has to be
> >> working and idling correctly. In terms of problem areas I'd say
> >> first computer, then engine running correctly, throttle adjustment,
> >> vacuum module. Last, trans internals.
> >>
> >> The whine - is it in first or at the shift 1-2 only? That sounds
> >> like a trans filter clogged up or air in the system. Have you
> >> serviced the trans lately? The harsh down shift is a symptom of a
> >> faulty computer but an engine with a fast idle or slow to idle
> >> symptom will cause a similar issue.
> >>
> >> Diagnosing a D trans is really an art as much as a science in my
> >> experience. But, you have to be sure you're dealing with one problem
> >> not two or more. That requires checking everything one at a time.
> >>
> >> Harold McElraft - 3354
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
> >> <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hey everyone,
> >>>
> >>> A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
> >>> to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
> >>> automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
> >>> 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
> >>> supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
> >>> shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
> >>> barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
> >>> temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
> >>> on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
> >>> transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
> >>> feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
> >>> almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
> >>> and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
> >>> don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
> >>>
> >>> One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
> >>> in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
> >>> when going from first to second.  This is if the car
> >>> is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
> >>> warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
> >>> noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
> >>> this anything to take note about, or is this just how
> >>> the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
> >>> 25 degrees?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for your time.
> >>>
> >>> Jeremiah
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> __________________________________
> >>> Do you Yahoo!?
> >>> Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> >>> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >>
> >> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> >> www.dmcnews.com
> >>
> >> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 00:36:29 GMT
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Re: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



Hi Group,

I had an issue with the shifting appearing too rough, slipping when going from reverse to drive.  Since I had only gotten a chance to driver her around a little I didn't think too much about it.  Then in one of my trips I decided to look - low and behold the level was low!  Then in my hast, and ignorance, I added the Dextron II (the bloody red stuff) - which thanks to Dave I just realized was a mistake!

But to add to the collectives knowledge base, when I did this the car acted somewhat like Bob's.  I had trouble going beyond second, unless I really drove it hard - fortunately I only did that once.

Now - what's the best way to fix this?  Drain, change filter, and fill with the gear oil?  Should I use some sort of cleaning agent to get all the fluid out?  Would it be OK to drain the fluid while I wait for the replacement filter?  Any advise would greatly be appreciated.

Luis & the limping 3723





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 22:18:02 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions


Well, "local boy" John Hervey told me that if I were to replace the fluid 
now after it is "burned"
that the new fluid would melt off all the plates inside my trasmission and 
it would be dead.
He told me not to change the fluid and to drive it until it breaks and then 
rebuild it or replace it because the damage is already done.

I told this to Stephen Wynne and he laughed, and said John was wrong, and to 
just do a
filter and fluid change on it right away.

Then again, I have had other mechanics tell me that once the fluid is burned
not to change it.... I think I remember someone telling me to put OATMEAL in
the transmission or something crazy like that!

I don't know who to believe or who to trust, some people have motives to 
sell me
a transmission, others are just trying to sound knowledgeable.
So far no one is willing to make any gaurantees.

The way I look at it is, right now it does run and drive.
Once it warms up it is fine...I drove it to PF this way.
If I take the chance and do the simple fluid change, it might help, it might 
do nothing
or god forbid it will wipe out the transmission for good and the car will be 
down until
I can afford to fix it.

I don't know what to do, but I don't think I should experiment with it until 
I have
an extra $5000 in the bank.

- VB

>From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
>Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:45:02 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Sounds like the computer is shot and the fluid is LOW. Don't be
>afraid to run the fluid up to the full mark when the trans is COLD.
>I would get a new computer or at least let Hervey do his thing to it
>before I drove it another foot. Also, Stephen, Don and Rob are
>correct - not the local boys, just look at the collective DeLorean
>experience talking to you.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Since we are in the thick of this topic, I would like to talk
>about the way
> > my car rides.
> > My automatic shifts like a mule just kicked you.
> > It winds way up and then jerks into gear with a slow slingshot
>effect.
> >
> > One of my main problems is that it will not shift into 3rd until
>it is
> > warmed up good.
> > If I take off on a cold day, I will have to drive in 1st gear for
>a while
> > otherwise it
> > will slip gear and the motor will just spin until I put it into
>first and it
> > will catch.
> > Once I get it up to a high RPM I can shift up to 2nd and it will
>go, but if
> > I put it in
> > 3rd it will just slip, unless I get on the highway and punch it.
> > Once I get going real fast, lets say 70 in 2nd gear then I can
>usually put
> > it in 3rd
> > and it will catch....but sometimes it will simply drop back and
>forth from
> > 2nd to 3rd.
> > Once the car is warmed up and finally drives smooth in 3rd, it
>will stay
> > like that as long
> > as you are driving it around.
> >
> > I have had people look at the trans fluid and smell it, and
>although it is
> > still red they tell
> > me it smells burned, and I have been told not to replace the fluid
>because
> > if I do
> > it will melt the inside of my transmission.
> > Of course Stephen Wynne told me that was BS and to go ahead and do
>it.
> > So I don't know who to believe.
> > But as far as I know the car has never had a trans service in 35K
>of life,
> > but I am
> > afraid to do it.
> > I just dont know what to do about it because I can not afford to
>send it to
> > Stegar.
> > I have had local trans shops tell me that they can rebuild it for
>me for
> > about $800
> > but of course Stegar and Grady both tell me that these trans shops
>only
> > "think they know what they are looking at" and "could not possibly
>do it for
> > that".
> >
> > All I know is that I have a serious problem with the transmission
>and it is
> > running like crap
> > because of it, it is robbing me of power and making me rev the
>engine too
> > much.
> > On cold mornings like we have had lately, I need to warm up the
>car for
> > about 20
> > minutes before I can drive it.
> >
> > So what should I do?
> >
> > - Videobob
> >
> > >From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...>
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [DML] Re: Questions on automatic transmissions
> > >Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:28:12 -0000
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >An accurately setup auto shifts nice and smooth hot or cold - in
> > >really cold weather the shifts are a little smoother - almost
> > >unnoticeable - warmed up - noticeable but smooth - no banging or
> > >jerking. I notice the change in engine sound more than anything
> > >along with more getup, especially at WOT. Never notice down
>shifting
> > >at coasting to stops or stopping. Down shifting from throttle
> > >response is firm but smooth and up shift the same - I try never to
> > >let the trans have to go through two gear shifts at once - i.e.
> > >first to third or third to first (I just visualize too much stuff
> > >going on in there for the by-pass of gears to be good for it).
> > >
> > >To get what I consider a really smooth trans took me a few years
>of
> > >working with an auto trans that was abused in its early years and
> > >run for some time with the computer screwed up.
> > >
> > >Three critical adjustments: The trans throttle cable, the computer
> > >working correctly and the vacuum module. And, the engine has to be
> > >working and idling correctly. In terms of problem areas I'd say
> > >first computer, then engine running correctly, throttle
>adjustment,
> > >vacuum module. Last, trans internals.
> > >
> > >The whine - is it in first or at the shift 1-2 only? That sounds
> > >like a trans filter clogged up or air in the system. Have you
> > >serviced the trans lately? The harsh down shift is a symptom of a
> > >faulty computer but an engine with a fast idle or slow to idle
> > >symptom will cause a similar issue.
> > >
> > >Diagnosing a D trans is really an art as much as a science in my
> > >experience. But, you have to be sure you're dealing with one
>problem
> > >not two or more. That requires checking everything one at a time.
> > >
> > >Harold McElraft - 3354
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
> > ><hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey everyone,
> > > >
> > > > A couple questions.  I never really paid any attention
> > > > to it, but I was wondering how a ideal working
> > > > automatic transmission shifts.  Obviously,
> > > > 1st->2nd->3rd, but what is its behavior?  Is it
> > > > supposed to shift really hard and firmly, or does it
> > > > shift softly like todays modern cars where one can
> > > > barely feel a shift at all?  Would a change in
> > > > temperature (summer vs winter weather) have a effect
> > > > on the shifting patterns?  Also, when the automatic
> > > > transmission downshifts, should you be able to really
> > > > feel the downshifts or should it be really smooth and
> > > > almost unnoticeable?  My car shifts up very firmly,
> > > > and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st very firmly, but I
> > > > don't really detect any downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.
> > > >
> > > > One last thing.  Lately with the morning temperature
> > > > in the mid 20's, I've noticed a high-pitched whine
> > > > when going from first to second.  This is if the car
> > > > is driven with no warm-up idle time.  Today, I let it
> > > > warm up to about 160 degrees, and it doesn't make this
> > > > noise driving down the street with warm up time.  Is
> > > > this anything to take note about, or is this just how
> > > > the car behaves when driven from a dead cold start in
> > > > 25 degrees?
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for your time.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremiah
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________
> > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> > > > http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
>address:
> > >moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > >To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 04:28:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



Whenever the subject of "MY automatic transmission is [fill in the
blank] the first thing you should do is a fluid level check and ALL
the external adjustments. Do a complete visual inspection looking for
leaks, vacuum hoses missing, etc. Next step is to pull the pan and
inspect the pan for debris. Clean or change the filter, gasket, and
fluid. In many cases you're done. If that doesn't do it you need to
have the shift computer looked at or replaced. If none of this helps
then the trans must be removed and rebuilt. Anyone who says they can
do the rebuild for $800 has NO IDEA what they are in for and it will
cost WAY more. Just a rebuild of all the "soft" parts with the labor
is worth $1,000 and that would be without doing the torque converter
or the labor to remove and replace. If any "hard" parts are bad it can
get very expensive quickly, like gears, drums, bearings, castings,
etc. BTW unless the shop has the special tool kit it will be near
impossible for them to properly set up all of the internal clearances,
let alone disassemble and reassemble the internals without damaging
things. Many of the seals and other parts they would need are not
easily obtainable through the ordinary sources like Fastco and others.
They would quickly see they are in over their heads and would have to
send the trans to a Delorean vender. Your transmission is definately
not running like it should and in general it is not good to drive it
like that, you could be doing damage the more you drive it which will
result in a more expensive rebuild.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> 
> My D shifts like any other auto IMHO, it's not light but it's not 
> hard either.  It's been my observation that when they shift poorly 
> either too soft or hard something is very very wrong inside. It may 
> not fail for quite some time but when it does the damage will have 
> been preventable by just pulling the trans and fixing/adjusting 
> what's needed in the first place. That being said also check and make 
> sure your computer is shifting properly.
> 
> Matt Stits,
> Vin 0789 Currently for sale.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
> <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 22:06:26 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: SS Louvers


I am not sure because I have only seen the photos, but I am guessing that 
these stainless steel louvers were simply metal slates glued or taped onto 
the surface of the originals.

I was considering having some made for my car and putting them on but I was
curious if anyone else had looked into it or done it?

Who is the owner of the car with the ss louver covers?
Care to share?

-VB

>From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] SS Louvers
>Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 21:02:15 -0000
>
>
>
>
>  Could anybody tell where I can get SS louvers? I think that they're
>pretty cool looking.  Also as anyone ever seen ss side view mirrors?
>Thanks.  -Josh
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 04:39:10 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: What's with the glug glug noise?



Well, the glug glug noise is still present. I took the W pipe off and
checked out the throttle plates & deceleration valves. There was some
light black soot-like gunk on them, but not too bad. It wiped right
off. The valves open freely if I depress the springs. I also replaced
the oxygen sensor just for kicks.

There was no change in the sound. Everything is still the same.

I did notice a tiny bit of oil in there, around the throttle plates &
in the W pipe. Not very much, though - a few drops at most. Is that
normal?

Anyway, if anybody has any other suggestions I am open to them!

-Ryan



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> My car lets out a "glug glug glug" when I decelerate. Almost sounds
> like a partial backfire. If I rev the engine in neutral and let off
> the gas it's even worse.
> 
> It's much less pronounced when cold. The first minute or so of driving
> with a cold engine I can't hear it at all on normal deceleration and
> only very minor if I rev the engine. 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> -Ryan








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 02:16:17 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Turn signal loads for LED's



Hi Rich,
I'm using that load resister to make my led light function for the 
Alternator dash light.
For my blinkers I'm using a variable load flasher made by Trucklite 
ULTRAFLASH II, with audible signal.
Its made strictly for big rigs using an LED system. It can handle 
both 12 and 24v electrical systems. It's a little overkill for the 
DeLorean but it was free and it works fine. It's been installed for 
about 3 years now, and very easy to install.

Good Luck, 
Mike
Vin#1113








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:16:35 -0000
From: "deloreansailor" <johnjarvis_at_dml_clear.net.nz>
Subject: Downunder contact



Hi All

Just a long shot really, does anyone know any Delorean owners in New 
Zealand or Australia that may like to exchange info?
My little girl is an 81 auto black interior and .......Painted Yellow









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 01:12:36 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: New DeLorean story.



I had to leave for work at noon today, to attend a meeting. As I go
out to my car, there are a couple of mortuary vans, and the local
coroner parked near my car. Turns out a neighbor in another apartment
died, and they were removing the body (don't send condolences, I've no
idea who it was under the sheet).

As the two workers were rolling the stretcher to the van nearest my
car, I kept seeing them gawk at my car, while I had the door open. I
said "Hi" to both of them, as they were opening up the van (I also
discovered that you will get the most uncomfortable looks when ask
someone how their day is going, if they happen to be moving a dead
body). As he opened the side door on the van, he asked me if that was
my car. I said yes, and asked them if they wanted to take a look at
it, and got an estatic "Hey, yeah!" from the both of them. The first
guy got the first part of the stretcher into the van, and then ran
over to my car, leaving the other one there to push the gurney by
himself. Keep in mind, this is on an incline. The second guy was
gentle, but certainly hurried up the loading of the body into the van,
so that he too could come over and take a look. And all while
rubber-necking!

The Coroner then came out, and said, "Hey, look!", and was pointing at
my car, while she spoke to her asistant. In their hurry, they left the
van door open. So it was quite an odd experience of giving a tour of
my car to people, while several sheet covered corpses were visible,
only a few feet away.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 19:52:59 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC houston video question


In a message dated 12/16/04 12:10:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> On one of your guy's websites had the video from channel 11 KHOU in Texas
> interviewing Steve Wynne, of DMC Texas. He said that he was planning to hand
> build some new cars in a couple years. I was wondering how He could do this.
> I mean isn't there new pollution standards out there? How about the VIN
> sequence? I thought this was puzzling when I saw this. I hope someone can
> clear this up for me. Thanks!       - Jay G.

Not sure what the current status is, but I don't think polution standards are 
a problem. they would of course use the same PRV engine, which in proper tune 
passes the strictest CA emissions tests with flying colors - impressive, 
especially for how old it is.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:33:15 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Finally, I got my DeLorean home! + tech info


Hello all!

I wanted to let everyone know that I moved to Poland and I finally got my 
DeLorean here with me. It's in my garage right now :). The shipping company 
I used was Schumacher found at http://www.schumachercargo.com/. I'm very 
satisfied with their services. The car went in a container and was shipped 
to my country for less than some roll on-roll off ferries wanted. They 
called me a few days before the car arrived and I was there when they opened 
the container... and I actually drove my car out of the container :). The 
car arrived without a scratch on it and they allow the car to full of 
personal stuff - everything was there when I got the car. I paid $1200 for 
shipping from Miami, FL to Poland. And believe me it was a very good price 
compared to other shippers.
I can recommend them for shipping a car overseas. Just remember not to take 
their estimate seriously. You CAN bargain with them and they will drop the 
price by about $200 - $300 (or more if you're good) from their estimate.

Now for the tech stuff.
I just had my car inspected for the registration and it passed with flying 
colors. This is mostly to those who "can't lock the brakes or can't pass 
emissions".
The weight of the car with me in it and about 1/4 tank was 1220 kg - 2689 
lbs. The car alone would weigh about 1130kg - 2491 lbs (with 1/4 tank of 
gas). That includes all the accessories like jack, tools and spare tire.
The brakes were checked and received an "A+" grade.
No brakes: the force was (free wheel) 110N for the front and 150N for the 
rear wheels. (I have no idea what you guys in the US use for force so I will 
just leave it in Newton)
Brakes applied: front 1,590,000 N - left to right difference 0%
rear: 2,610,000 N - left to right difference 3%
parking brake: 1,590,000 N
To sum up, rear brakes peaked off the scale (the scale was 0 to 3 and the 
computer noted 2.610 as the last believable reading). Parking brake was as 
strong as the front brakes!!!!! The guy that was doing the test just said - 
Now, that is amazing... you've got SOME brakes there!
Emissions: The test was done at idle - reading for 10 minutes of idling with 
accessories off

HC (ppm)
MAX - 100
READ 4

CO (%)
MAX 0.50
READ 0.00

Another thing was the headlights which I had to replace. I didn't mind 
because those sealed beams are like small candles :). I installed a set of 4 
brand new Hella E-coded headlights with H4 for the outboard and H1 for the 
inboard bulbs. All were premium OSRAM with 30% more light. And let me tell 
you - I can finally see where I'm going at night!


Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in POLAND!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 06:18:02 EST
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?


I'll be perfectly honest, I have very little knowledge of stainless steel  in 
general (i.e. do's and don'ts).  However, at work, we have a few wooden  
doors that have been plated with stainless steel panels (they look very similar  
to the DeLorean's, but appear to have much more "bend" and "give" to  them).  
We used to use Goo-Gone to clean up the fingerprints &  what-not, and it did a 
fair job in my opinion.  Then, one day, my boss  hands me a can of WD-40, a 
rag, and tells me to "get to it."  And  apparently, this stuff works.  Not as 
good as the Goo-Gone did in my  opinion, but it still cleans up the fingerprint 
smudges rather nicely, and  almost gives our panels a nice shine.  Now I don't 
have that much knowledge  of WD-40 either, but could a man use this stuff to 
clean up DeLorean panels when  he is out of the more traditional stainless 
cleaners?  What about the  long-term / short-term effects?  I can't really see 
any immediate danger,  as we've been using the stuff for a good couple months 
now _at_dml_ work, but I thought  I would get a green-light from the list first before 
trying this on a  DeLorean.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 06:32:29 EST
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Let's talk about that infamous fender.


Once upon a time, I heard rumors that DMCH would be making new body fenders  
(particularly that front-left fender).  I'm not sure if anything has  
materalized with this rumor or not, but... I am a bit concerned.  I  have a very tall 
order for the DeLorean I will soon be buying: daily  driving.  And with daily 
driving comes, unfortunately, daily risk.   Now granted, I don't live in a 
"wild" town.  In fact, I live in a  retirement community (despite the fact that 
I'm anything but retired :D).   So naturally, most everyone here goes about 5 
mph under the legal limit.  I  once saw a Ferrari F550 doing 45 in a 55.  I had 
to laugh and cry at the  same time at that one.  I couldn't get a look at the 
driver to determine  his age, but only in South Florida do we buy insanely 
powerful sports  cars and drive under the limit (not that I condone speeding, 
mind you).
 
But I digress.
 
My concern over damaging that particular fender is growing each day.   Let's 
say I do get into an accident (God forbid), and I cream that front-left  
fender.  What options do I have to get a replacement, save spending almost  $2,000 
on a fender off a parted-out DeLorean?  From what I understand,  there is 
absolutely no back stock left of these fenders.  Can one be custom  made by a 
metal "job shop?"  Can most shops reproduce one cheaply, and up  to original specs?
 
And let's say that fender is lightly to moderately damaged, is it possible  
to repair it back to its cherry condition?  And the same thing goes for our  
hoods!  Those gas flap / grooved hoods are also a bit scarce.  I  realize that 
it all depends on the type of damage done, but being the paranoid  chap that I 
am, I just had to ask.  :-)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:18:31 -0500
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?


I did this to my car almost right after getting it and after a few weeks my 
panels were brown with dirt that had stuck to the oils. It was pulled into the 
grain and I had to go over my car with a blending pad to get it out of the 
panels.

Regards,

Michael


Quoting ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com:

> 
> 
> I'll be perfectly honest, I have very little knowledge of stainless steel  in
> 
> general (i.e. do's and don'ts).  However, at work, we have a few wooden  
> doors that have been plated with stainless steel panels (they look very
> similar  
> to the DeLorean's, but appear to have much more "bend" and "give" to  them). 
> 
> We used to use Goo-Gone to clean up the fingerprints &  what-not, and it did
> a 
> fair job in my opinion.  Then, one day, my boss  hands me a can of WD-40, a 
> rag, and tells me to "get to it."  And  apparently, this stuff works.  Not as
> 
> good as the Goo-Gone did in my  opinion, but it still cleans up the
> fingerprint 
> smudges rather nicely, and  almost gives our panels a nice shine.  Now I
> don't 
> have that much knowledge  of WD-40 either, but could a man use this stuff to
> 
> clean up DeLorean panels when  he is out of the more traditional stainless 
> cleaners?  What about the  long-term / short-term effects?  I can't really
> see 
> any immediate danger,  as we've been using the stuff for a good couple months
> 
> now _at_dml_ work, but I thought  I would get a green-light from the list first
> before 
> trying this on a  DeLorean.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 18:03:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: WD-40 as a stainless cleaner?



WD-40 is fine. It is just that it will leave the surface oily which
will attract a lot of dust and dirt. I use alcohol and Windex. They
leave the surface dryer and with no residue. I save the expensive 3M
stuff for special occasions or if I regrain. The WD-40 is probably not
great to use on the rubber seals so stay away from the door seals with
it.It is also messy on glass. Spray it on a rag and then wipe the car
with it instead of spraying directly on the S/S. It is VERY good for
the power antennae but again spray it on a rag and then wipe the
antennae mast. Stay away from the rub strip with the Goo-Gone. It can
loosen the glue holding the rubber on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> I'll be perfectly honest, I have very little knowledge of stainless
steel  in 
> general (i.e. do's and don'ts).  However, at work, we have a few
wooden  
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 16:46:30 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



I agree 100% with David, Bob get your car to a Delorean vendor ASAP 
before it comes to the point of it just being cheaper to replace the 
entire thing. I believe it was David but it may have been someone 
else here that had a circuit diagram to test you transmission 
computer. I used to have it but after I checked mine and updated my 
comp just to be safe I tossed it.

Matt Stits,
Vin 0789 Currently for sale.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Whenever the subject of "MY automatic transmission is [fill in the
> blank] the first thing you should do is a fluid level check and ALL
> the external adjustments. Do a complete visual inspection looking 
for
> leaks, vacuum hoses missing, etc. Next step is to pull the pan and
> inspect the pan for debris. Clean or change the filter, gasket, and
> fluid. In many cases you're done. If that doesn't do it you need to
> have the shift computer looked at or replaced. If none of this helps
> then the trans must be removed and rebuilt. Anyone who says they can
> do the rebuild for $800 has NO IDEA what they are in for and it will
> cost WAY more. Just a rebuild of all the "soft" parts with the labor
> is worth $1,000 and that would be without doing the torque converter
> or the labor to remove and replace. If any "hard" parts are bad it 
can
> get very expensive quickly, like gears, drums, bearings, castings,
> etc. BTW unless the shop has the special tool kit it will be near
> impossible for them to properly set up all of the internal 
clearances,
> let alone disassemble and reassemble the internals without damaging
> things. Many of the seals and other parts they would need are not
> easily obtainable through the ordinary sources like Fastco and 
others.
> They would quickly see they are in over their heads and would have 
to
> send the trans to a Delorean vender. Your transmission is definately
> not running like it should and in general it is not good to drive it
> like that, you could be doing damage the more you drive it which 
will
> result in a more expensive rebuild.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > My D shifts like any other auto IMHO, it's not light but it's not 
> > hard either.  It's been my observation that when they shift 
poorly 
> > either too soft or hard something is very very wrong inside. It 
may 
> > not fail for quite some time but when it does the damage will 
have 
> > been preventable by just pulling the trans and fixing/adjusting 
> > what's needed in the first place. That being said also check and 
make 
> > sure your computer is shifting properly.
> > 
> > Matt Stits,
> > Vin 0789 Currently for sale.
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
> > <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > > 
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 17:48:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Questions on automatic transmissions



If your transmission slips it means the clutch packs are not holding
tightly enough. This is caused by either they are worn out or the line
pressure is too low. If continued they will loose all the friction
materiel and never hold no matter how much line pressure you have. The
fluid doesn't "burn". What happens is the friction materiel comes off
the friction plates inside the clutch packs (from slipping and wear)
and contaminates the fluid. When the fluid gets contaminated with a
heavy burden of particles it wears out the seals and bearings. When
the clutches slip it generates a lot of heat. The temperature of the
fluid goes up and hardens the seals so they start to leak. By the time
you see all the seals leaking the damage is done. Replacing and
flushing the fluid won't buy you much time. It may even leak faster
being thinner but it won't hurt the internals, they are already shot.
The bottom line is NEVER to drive on a slipping automatic
transmission. If it slips it must be corrected quickly or you WILL do
an overhaul of the internals. I would drop the pan, clean it out,
clean or replace the filter and fluid. If you catch it early enough
you *may* be OK. Check the line pressure. It is a good general
indicator of the internal health of the transmission.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Well, "local boy" John Hervey told me that if I were to replace the
fluid 
> now after it is "burned"
> that the new fluid would melt off all the plates inside my 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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