From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2378
Date: Sunday, December 19, 2004 2:34 PM


There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DMC houston video question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

2. RE: Thanks again to the group!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

3. Re: Metal Steering Column Bushing?
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

4. Re: Mechanic in Greenville, SC area
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re:Re: Questions on automatic transmission FLUID?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Re:Re: Questions on automatic transmission FLUID?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Centering the air meter plate
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 05:37:38 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DMC houston video question



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Actually, that is not true.
> If DMCH takes a DeLorean frame and underbody using an existing VIN
and all 
> they
> do is change things like body panels, interior, engine modifications
etc.. 
> then they are not
> actually manufacturing cars, and are not subject to any of the laws
doing 
> so.
> No crash testing, emissions testing, nothing like that.
> It's actually pretty smart in that respect, how ever I don't know of
anyone 
> who
> would buy one of these rebodied cars....maybe a few rap stars and drug 
> dealers maybe.
> Jay Leno will want one I am sure.
> - VB

No, you're not making anything new. You're just installing a body kit,
and a custom interior. And that doesn't make sense for DMCH, if
they've already got a huge investment in parts that they need to sell,
and get rid of. But, there isn't any reason to really worry about
these tests at all.

Like it's been said before, a car maker in the US can manufacture a
car in low enough quantities, that they will be exempt from testing on
modern safety requirements. Responsability for making vehicles
compliant falls upon the manufacturer. The DOT will not prevent any
car from hitting the road for failing any tests, because there are
none that limited production vehicles have complete, before hitting
the road.

EPA is different, because after all, you've got to be within certain
limits for emissions. And if the fuel consumption is too high, the car
will get slapped with a $1,000 gas guzzler tax. Otherwise, no worries
there,

I've no idea where you get the idea that only rap stars, and Jay Leno
will want these cars. I can't posibly fathom where in the world the
information that demographic is based upon came from. And BTW, Jay
Leno may be a car guy that lends a hand in fighting asinine emissions
laws, but he certainly doesn't sound like a DeLorean fan, based upon
past articles I've read in the past.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_coll_leno/2001/2/cars_find_me/

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 00:41:59 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Thanks again to the group!


Mike,

Your reverse light problem may be similar to your previous electrical
problem. Double check fuse #16, make sure that the fuse is good and be sure
that it is making proper contact in the fuse receptacle. Next go to the
reverse light switch at the transmission and check to see if you have 12
volts at the Lt. green/white wire. IF you have 12 volts than you're half way
there. Now place a jumper, a paper clip will do, between the lt. green/white
wire and the solid green wire. If the lights come on you have a defective
reverse light switch or the switch is not screwed completely into the
transmission. 

If none of the above tests work contact me directly for additional test
procedures.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael & Denise [mailto:luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net] 
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 6:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Thanks again to the group!



Many thanks to DMC Joe and Harold for their tips regarding my lighting
problems-turns out they were both right on the money as I had a loose
connection at the #2 fuse which was easily fixed and they're back working
now.  John at Special T just serviced my rear light circuit boards and did a
great job but one of my connectors from the wiring harness to the board
isn't in the best of shape and tends to flicker out every now and then.  Is
it possible to get a replacement connector and splice it in or would the
wiring harness need to be replaced as a whole?  My only other lighting issue
now is still getting the reverse lights to work since even after replacing
the switch on the transmission and servicing the circuit boards I'm still
getting nothing when in reverse.  Quite frustrating since this one problem
is preventing me from passing a Virginia State Inspection.  As always any
thoughts on troubleshooting this would be appreciated!
Thanks again and Seasons Greetings to all, Mike

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 01:55:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Metal Steering Column Bushing?


Ah... figured it out. As it turned out... it wasn't metal at all (hrmm,
that's why I'm such a bad welder...). From what I can tell, the only way
to get the bushing outta there is to put a pair of channel locks on it and
pull like crazy. The array of "tools" that I used to put the new one in
was even more interesting.

For future reference for the archives, is there a good way to get the
bushing in and out?

-Christian

On Sat, 18 Dec 2004, Christian Williams wrote:

>
>
> I'm replacing my steering column bushing today and have pulled the
> steering wheel and column out. There appears to be a metal bushing in the
> fiberglass that the column passes through. It has the same inside
> diameter as the plastic bushing that I'm planning to install. This piece
> spins and wobbles, but doesn't seem to want to come out. the inside end is
> flat and the ouside end is tapered.
>
> Is this a metal version of the steering column bushing, or is this
> something else? Does it stay in or does it need to come out? Any ideas on
> another way to coax it outta there?
>
> Thanks,
> Christian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 04:18:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Mechanic in Greenville, SC area



Is Columbia close enough?

Norman Preser
754 Kirkland Circle
Elgin, SC 29045
(803) 438-6626

Has a lot of PRV/Renault trans experience.

Dave Swingle's mother lives near Clemson. He visits several times per
year -- potential tech session.

Louie Golden is working on a Charlotte NC tech session in early 2005.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Looking for a mechanic in the Greenville, SC area.  Any info would 
> be appreciated.
> John
> 5935








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 19:12:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re:Re: Questions on automatic transmission FLUID?



I use Castrol Syntec - Synthetic ATF. It meets Dextron II and others 
etc,. I prefer this synthetic because from the first time I used it 
the trans smoothed out and the fluid stays "red" from change to 
change indicating to me it clearly handles heat more efficiently.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> 
> In my automatic I put the regular dextron II bloody red fluid.  I 
was fairly sure there was only one transmission fluid to get.  I have 
had not problems thus far (only 10,000 miles though)  Is there some 
better fluid to put in?  I am almost certain the owner's manuel even 
stated that dextron II was the fluid to use.
>  
> Joe P.
> VIN 1767 6808
>  
>  
> >Wait a sec.
> >Are you telling me that you are not supposed to put RED <automatic
> >transmission fluid in there?
> >Then in my hast, and ignorance, I added the Dextron II (the bloody 
red stuff) - which thanks to Dave I just realized was a> mistake!
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 14:38:59 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re:Re: Questions on automatic transmission FLUID?


In a message dated 12/19/04 12:25:09 PM Central Standard Time, 
jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu writes:


> In my automatic I put the regular dextron II bloody red fluid.  I was 
> fairly sure there was only one transmission fluid to get.  I have had not problems 
> thus far (only 10,000 miles though)  Is there some better fluid to put in?  
> I am almost certain the owner's manuel even stated that dextron II was the 
> fluid to use.
> 
> Joe P.
> VIN 1767 6808
> 

Dexron II was superceded by Dexron III in the mid 90's.  Dexron II is an 
obsolete ATF specification and Dexron III meets and supercedes all requirements of 
Dexron II, and is compatible with all vehicles requiring Dexron II.  

The newest specification for 2004 is Dexron III(H) which is formulated to 
meet GM's requirements for their 5- and 6- speed transmissions.  All ATF's will 
be required to meet III(H) in early 2005 due to licensing requirements by 
General Motors.  This newer fluid is made from higher refined basestocks and to my 
knowledge group 1 parafinic base stocks will not be allowed under III(H).  To 
us, that means a better fluid that will last longer and protect better.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 19:21:25 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Centering the air meter plate



> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
>
> The "rest position" is adjusted by turning the nut next to the hole
for the mixture screw. The plate should be in the center of the
venturi at the smallest point in it's diameter several mm away from
the rubber stop.<

Not to split hairs but technically that is not true. While your
description about the lateral positioning of the plate is correct the
nut you describe only locks the rest pin in one position or permits
adjustment in one direction. The rest position is adjusted by tapping
the pin. Another minor bu timportant point is that it's advisable to
set the final rest position about .015 higher than the top of the
fixed dimension of the venturi throat. Flush is OK but if the plate is
set too low or readjustment is needed after assembly the flow meter
will have to be opened again. I refer you to the Bosch CI service and
overhaul manual for complete details.

Greg








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