From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2384
Date: Friday, December 24, 2004 11:51 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cigarette lighter light
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: buy my car!!!! pretty please =)
From: "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. The SonnyV issue (I spoke to James Espey).
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: buy my car!!!! pretty please =)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. First time for everything...
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Door acting weird
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

7. Re: BTTF D at 2004 Cruise for the Cure
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

8. Soft Clutch
From: AngularTableKnight <knightoftheslightlyangulartable_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: What's with the glug glug noise?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: I finally had that dream
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

11. Re: Headlight switch
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

12. Re: Headlight switch
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: An actual Delorean Topic/ frame rust area check
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Battery drain
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

15. Re: Headlight switch
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Discovered Delorean complete with Cave Art
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

17. Re: I finally had that dream
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Replacing thermo time switch.
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Axel seal replacement tricks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Let it snow let it snow let it snow
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

21. Anyone in the area want to attend this Event in January?
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Headlight switch
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Frequency valve buzzing when key in "ON" position?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

24. Re: Door acting weird
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: Replacing thermo time switch.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:34:13 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter light


I also had that problem, only the wiring was not at fault. Red with 
an orange trace wire should go to the light, a purple wire to the 
cigarette lighter itself. Make sure this is correct before switching 
any wires!

The cigarette illumination ring has a copper strip on it that is 
supposed to press against the outside of the cigarette lighter 
housing (the metal part where the cigarette lighter goes). This 
completes the circuit to the light (+12V from the light switch, 
ground to the case of the cigarette lighter housing).

My copper strip contacted the +12V of the cigarette lighter circuit 
instead of the cigarette lighter's ground.

With the +12V of the cigarette lighter being energized all the time, 
the light found a ground through the normally off light circuit 
(probably through the rheostat switch), allowing the cigarette 
lighter light to illuminate all the time.

If your wiring is correct and the light stays on all the time, check 
the position of the illumination ring. Over the years the ring 
becomes very brittle and can crack, allowing the cigarette lighter 
housing to spin out of position. 

Happy Holidays,
Brian
#4494





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> It is possible that the wires for the light and the lighter are 
mixed up.





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:20:58 -0000
From: "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: buy my car!!!! pretty please =)



well im not scamming....as a matter of fact i was just almost 
scammed.....no pictures because i have no scanner....im not that 
tech saavy as some people!!! but believe what u will......if anyone 
is interested i could go thru some legal processes u know to make 
sure u know who i am and where to find me or whatever before u do 
anything.....but whatever.....im not a scammer








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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 06:10:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The SonnyV issue (I spoke to James Espey).


(Moderators Note: Based on the information John Dore posted about his phone conversation with James at DMCH, additional questions or comments about this SonnyV issue need to be sent directly to DMCH or calls should be placed to DMCH. John's posting states answers and/or additional information from DMCH will not be sent thru, or to, the DML on this matter. Should DMCH decide to comment, this information will be posted to the list along with any replys. Other then that, this posting closes this thread. Marty, this weeks moderator)     


See Below.

--- John Dore <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

<SNIP>

> During the call James seemed genuinely sorry and
> embarrassed about
> this whole situation. I asked if he can see why a
> lot of people are
> upset about this, and he said (I paraphrase) :
> absolutely, no-one
> likes being deceived.

Sorry he did it? Or sorry he got caught?

Is business that bad, that they need to do this kind
of marketing?!

Does this mean they have learned their lesson?  Will
they stop the deception of trying to fool people in to
thinking they are the same company that built our cars
in 1981?  Will they stop laying claim to the DMC logo,
and other related art work?  Will they admit that they
were selling door pistons which broke or bent door
mounts on dozens (if not hundreds) of cars?....  the
list goes on.

> I'm glad that James called me - I think email is a
> really crap way of
> sorting out your problems, there is nothing like
> talking to someone 1
> on 1. James had a list of maybe 15 people at that
> stage who had
> posted comments on this issue to both lists, and he
> told me he
> intends calling each one of them to listen to their
> concerns on the
> matter, and try to patch things up. I think this is
> a great idea, and
> I am impressed with James for this.

That is big of him, but the 1 on 1 approach tends to
make people more reserved.  The events took place on
these mailing lists, and should be addressed in a like
manor.
 
> That said, I know there are many people here who
> have not posted an
> opinion publicly, and would not call James up to
> discuss this, but
> would like an explanation. I asked James if he was
> going to reply to
> my post on this forum, and he said no, he is not
> going to. He also
> said that after our call if I go and post again on
> this topic, he
> will not reply to that post either. James and
> Stephen have discussed
> this between themselves, and will not reply or post
> anything publicly
> to either list on this issue, ever, which I think is
> a pity. Its my
> opinion that the only way this will be resolved
> properly is a simple
> email from the guys in DMCHouston saying "yes we did
> this - we're not
> proud of it, sorry if we offended anyone, and we
> won't do it again".
> I'm sure 2 or 3 days later the whole mess would be
> forgotten about.

Agreed..  But there is no proof or documentation of a
telephone conversation.  A post to the Internet will
be permanent history.

> As a sidenote, James was very friendly, and seemed
> like a very nice
> guy. We talked a little about our baby daughters and
> life in general,
> isn't this what owning a DeLorean is really about -
> making friends? I
> hope this can all be cleared up soon so we can go
> back to that.

James has always been nice to me in person, as have I
to him.  (Even returned his digital camera to him in
Pigeon Forge instead of raffling it off! LOL).  I am
not passing judgment on him for any other aspect than
the way he conducts his business.  The fact that
Stephen knew about this and agreed to it does not say
a lot for Stephen's business ethics either.

<SNIP>

I'd like to also point out that I can think of two
times where SonnyV engaged me directly.  Once accusing
me of being a racist for using the term "ricer", and
again to ask if I had anything nice to say about DMCH.
 Can one conclude that an effort to discredit me is a
marketing tool for them?

An apology is great, but meaningless unless they make
some changes to correct things.... Or will James just
be more careful with the next alias as to not be
caught?

One suggestion would be to differentiate themselves
from the REAL and now defunct DeLorean Motor Company. 
The web site, the magazine, all advertisements.  Call
it "DeLorean Motor Company of Texas" or whatever, just
to limit confusion between them and the real DMC.



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:31:12 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: buy my car!!!! pretty please =)


Major Scam going on here,


In e-mailswith this "kid" in one e-mail he tells me he drives it 
regularly on Waikiki beach, (in Hawaii) and the next in California. 
Then he was in Houston getting several thousand in repairs?? He 
doesn't have 1 fact down straight, and has been caught in several 
lies. This is just a kid messing with some potential owners on this 
list. And once I confronted him with this info he went ballistic in 
his numerous replies cussing me out every way possible for not 
believing him. I merely wanted him to state his facts correctly, 
which he couldn't.

He also doesn't know any other Delorean related facts other than 
the "doors go up and it is made of aluminum", yep that sounds about 
like a true Delorean owner to me.

Be warned if this kid convinces anyone to send him any money. Plus 
with the convenient "no scanner" so no pictures lie. You've been 
warned.

File this one under the SCAM category.


Joe OBrien

2524,
16634,
16685



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "my real name" <joe4359102_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> well im not scamming....as a matter of fact i was just almost 
> scammed.....no pictures because i have no scanner....im not that 
> tech saavy as some people!!! but believe what u will......if 
anyone is interested i could go thru some legal processes u know to make 
> sure u know who i am and where to find me or whatever before u do 
> anything.....but whatever.....im not a scammer








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:58:06 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: First time for everything...



I always enjoy hearing amusing stories of how people react to seeing 
DeLoreans, so I thought I'd share one of my own. I drive my car 
daily so I get barraged with antics all the time... most are pretty 
amusing and lighten up my day. Others can just be darn creepy... 
LOL! Well the other night I was driving down a one way street 
through one of Charlotte's bar districts and had someone actually 
jump out in front of my car and wave frantically and giving me the 
thumbs up. I was traveling at a good 40 MPH and luckily it was a two 
lane one way street with no other traffic near me, so I could swerve 
to miss the idiot lol. I mean I've had crazy stuff happen to me... 
people hanging out of their windows yelling and waving, people 
taking pictures and using camcorders in other cars near me... but 
I've never actually seen someone risk their life like that lol. 

Louie Golden VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:42:20 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Door acting weird



Hi Group,

Winter is finally creeping into the South. I drive my DeLorean daily 
and I've noticed my driver's side door acting strangely sometimes 
when the temperature is below the mid 30s. The door shoots open and 
I have to pad it's ascent to prevent it from bouncing hard. I'm 
baffled... normally during colder temps we have to help our doors up 
instead of preventing them from flying up. I've not paid especially 
close attention to exactly when the door opens up more powerfully 
than usual, but it seems when the temperature is cold and it's the 
first time the door has been opened in a while. For reference I've 
got a DMC-Texas door strut on the car and it's probably about a year 
old or so... it works extremely well. Also the car is a daily 
driver, and has been a daily driver for the last 10 years or so. 
does this sound like a strut or torsion bar issue? I've got all of 
these horror stories of snapping torsion bars flying through my head 
and thought I'd see what the list thinks. I suppose I can try 
switching out my Grady strut on the passenger side for the DMC-Texas 
strut on the driver's side and see what happens. Anyone have any 
thoughts, suggestions, experiences?

Louie Golden VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:18:44 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF D at 2004 Cruise for the Cure


I like the "DeLorean" lettering underneath the doors. Where'd that
come from? Is it a custom one-off, or something that can be purchased?

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> That's Dan's from the DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove, CA.





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 17:07:05 -0800 (PST)
From: AngularTableKnight <knightoftheslightlyangulartable_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Soft Clutch



Hello all,

 I have a five speed DeLorean, and the clutch seems to
have gone "soft" overnight. By soft, I mean that I
have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to
get it to engage at all and shifting is more
difficult, especially into first and second gears. The
clutch fluid level was very low so I topped it off,
but there hasn't been any change in clutch behavior.

 I did check the fluid level again though, and there
hasn't been any change from when I added new fluid.
Does anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

 Thanks.


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:04:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What's with the glug glug noise?



If you have a modified (no longer stock exhaust set-up) you will
either have to learn to live with the noise or you will need some type
of further modifacation to reduce or eliminate it. To locate an
exhaust leak you look at the manifolds for black soot which would
indicate a leak, feel for hot exhaust gases, loose or missing hardware
or pieces of gasket missing. A ticking noise is also a symptom. Since
the car is over 20 years old the safest bet is just to figure the
gaskets are shot and remove everything and replace the gaskets. You
might want to consider replacing all the hardware with better stuff
while you have it apart. P J Grady sells a hardware kit of new
stainless studs and nuts with a much improved gasket. You may need to
have the manifolds milled flat before you can reassemble. They should
be checked with a straightedge. If they are warped they should be
milled or you will blow out the new gaskets.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> Thank you again for your response. I'd like to avoid "adding" anything
> to the car - while a throttle retard might make the sound go away,
> that isn't fixing the core problem (whatever it is). I'd rather track
> down whatever is causing this and fix it right.
> 
> How can I find out if the exhaust manifold is leaking? The car isn't
> particularly loud so if there is a leak, it's going to be minor - but
> could be enough to cause this glugging. If there are any tricks to
> detecting manifold leaks, I'd love to hear them.
> 
> -Ryan








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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:59:53 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: I finally had that dream



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I know this may sound weird but I finally had a real dream about 
> driving a Delorean last night.  I'm not kidding.  I dreamed I went 
> out to the garage and their it was. It even had a gas flap! I got in 
> the car and took it for a drive and ended up a fast food place had 
> to open the door to give the my order at the drive through. Then I 
> drove through with the door open and got all kinds of questions and 
> admirers. I don't own a D yet but I'm getting closer.
> 
> Merry Christmas All!

Rest assured; after you buy it, you'll have more dreams about working
on it than driving it.  :-)  (I get this from going to sleep after too
much research on the upgrade / restoration project at hand)

--Greg
#2894








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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:16:12 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> I have been advised that the headlight switch is not fused and can 
catch on
> fire.
> 
> Is this true:? What happens?
> 
> How is it corrected by owners?
> 
> Roland Smith
> Oakland, California
> Vin #6667

The headlight switch is not fused, no. And all power for the 
clearance lights runs directly thru it. However, many other cars and 
trucks are like this as well. Long story short, you can install a 
relay to protect it. But there is no specific problem with the switch 
itself that should concern you.

Now, for the explanation. The problem is NOT an inherient design flaw 
with the switch, but a problem with how DMC decided to power 10 
lights off of it! (2 front clearance, 4 side indicators, & 2 license 
plate lamps) I have a Dodge pickup with a pull switch, that powers 6 
lamps thru it. And even in my owners manual, it states that if 
anything more than 4 lamps from a trailer are going to be used, you 
need to splice the wires, and install a relay. (2 tail lamps, 2 side 
markers)

Granted, this is apples to oranges, I know. However, it is an example 
of how an auto manufacturer has placed known limits onto it's 
products. Running a stock set up for the Headlight Switch on a 
DeLorean is fine. However, once you increase a load beyond what those 
10 light bulbs generate, you're destined to toast the switch. No, you 
won't be towing a trailer with you're DeLorean. But 24 years of 
corrosion in the light sockets, and on the wiring contacts are all 
gonna add up, and create enough resistance in the circuit to melt the 
internals in that switch. That's the EXACT thing that happened to me.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X" <--At home in warm Vegas, while I freeze in Ohio.








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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:39:29 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch



This will fix it.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> I have been advised that the headlight switch is not fused and can 
catch on
> fire.
> 
> Is this true:? What happens?
> 
> How is it corrected by owners?
> 
> Roland Smith
> Oakland, California
> Vin #6667








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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:58:49 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: An actual Delorean Topic/ frame rust area check


The frame rust is fairly consistent on how it starts and where it  forms
Usually the horn areas go and collapse in an extreme case
The epoxy can also deceive you because on the 100 K Philly car I had we  felt 
the car was fine except for the crumple zone
We removed the old crumple zone and it was looking good but  when  we started 
to grind the rest of the frame to get to good metal and we ended up  grinding 
back to the bolts holding on the triangle plate on the bottom.   The epoxy 
was intact and looked perfect.  The metal beneath was gone and we  were taking 
pieces off by hand.
 
We also found a the cars showed signs of having hydraulic fluid  spilled and 
the owners did not wipe it off and it lifted the epoxy.  Rust  resulted.
 
I only powder coat now and the crumple zones I make are all done with it.  
(not an intentional plug but if you replace yours you will be buying these most  
likely).
 
We also like to powder coat the triangle plate as well.  It makes  it look a 
lot brighter underneath and we find that spills tend to separate the  epoxy 
from the top side and then tend to rust the actual frame especially by the  
second bolt on the passenger side from the front.
This has rusted in almost all of the cars I have that show any rust.
 
I do make this point again not to sell crumple zones but to prevent  you all 
from having to buy them.  If you treat your frame now  maybe you can avoid the 
repair.
 
I can do the job in about 8 hours complete now (got a new welder YEA) but  so 
many things can go wrong adding hours and hours if not days to the job  so it 
can get to be an extremely expensive job.
 
Most people take care of the top of their car
 
The DeLorean needs to be taken care of from the bottom.  I detail my  cars 
and have taught new owners to treat the undercarriage as you would the  top.
 
Well I have said my piece so 
 
MERRY CHRITSMAS TO ALL OF  YOU 

Ken   


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:05:19 -0500
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Battery drain


Joe: I am having a similar problem and have been using a trickle charger to
compensate for the drain when not in use. My battery is confirmed good.
Could you run the step by step on the list for those of us that have the
same situation? Thanks.
Rustproof
Vin 1559


----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: [DML] Battery drain
> Wayne,
>
> This is a common problem and can be caused by several current drain
> situations.





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 04:37:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch



See the pic in #5939's photo album.

What happens? You smell smoke and see fire under the dash -- very bad
in a plastic car.

Compare wiring diagram for the headlight switch vs hazard switch.
Don't have my Workshop Manual with me so I can't quote fuse numbers,
but headlight comes AFTER the switch whereas hazard comes BEFORE the
switch.

Problem isn't the switch per se, but rather the ground for the
internal illumination bulb -- that's where the short will fester and
burn unprotected. 

I added another relay in the compartment to drive my side and tail
lights (factory design routes their full amperage through the
headlight switch). In the process inserted a fuse before the switch.
Load through it now is 30 milliamps -- I protect with a 1 amp fuse. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> I have been advised that the headlight switch is not fused and can
catch on
> fire.
> 
> Is this true:? What happens?
> 
> How is it corrected by owners?
> 
> Roland Smith
> Oakland, California
> Vin #6667








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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 23:29:06 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: Discovered Delorean complete with Cave Art


Greetings all.

On my travels today, I happened to have stopped in a local foreign car
mechanic's shop who specializes in Bimmers. Long story short, I was
there to scrounge up prices for BMW parts (I am picking up the
restoration of Griff's BMW From BTTF2, where Tate Coghlan left off). I
stopped there because the interior guy I'm having do the BMW happened to
know the guy at the shop who actually happened to be a friend of my
dad's. (they got on about it after reminiscing about the old CT
dragstrip)...

ANYWAYS!!

Vin 4941, late '81, (I knew that instantly by the hood) with 10,012
miles on it. Grey interior, automatic. The car had been at the shop for
over 10 years. It's one of those classic stories about how a guy brings
his car in for repairs, and never pays for it, and then the car becomes
property of the garage. When I told him about the BMW being from the
movie, he mentioned having the Delorean, so I decided to check it out.

Needs a few things such as fuel accumulator, louvres, door struts, and
probably all the updates. It's pretty much original. A few pieces of the
interior were out of alignment. But most of all, the passengers door
overhead piece was missing.

In marker (upside down, looking at it) was: 10/11 12.24 am

So does anyone know if the factory workers were using the dd/mm (as is
normal in europe) or mm/dd?

The guy may sell it for a reasonable offer. He is judging his prices
based on Hemmings listings. But from what this list has taught me, we're
looking at a car of about 9-11K. He had stated that "we just got it
running again this year" and also told me "Well, keep in touch and in
the springtime you can take it out and let me know what's wrong with
it". this is an older gentleman, who obviously doesn't know about DMCH
and is in no rush to get rid of the car. He's been working on this car
as he can locate pieces. (Damn, I love the DML)

Should I feel bad if I downtalk this car and get a deal out of it? HECK
NO! So after the restoration of Griff's BMW, I may just look into that!

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 04:52:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: I finally had that dream



Welcome back William (time for your biannual post?) Louie Golden is
putting together a gathering in Charlotte in early 2005 if you'd like
to drive up (did news reach you he's now driving Bob Thomason's old
car? The one you saw was wrecked about a year ago, no fault of
Louie's). Message #47731 revealed another owner in your neck of the
woods -- perhaps Travis could put together a gathering down there for
us North Carolinians to drive to. Never forget: the best thing about
owning a DeLorean is NOT the car, it's the people you meet through the
car.

Obviously your dream car needs some new toll booth window motors...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I know this may sound weird but I finally had a real dream about 
> driving a Delorean last night.  I'm not kidding.  I dreamed I went 
> out to the garage and their it was. It even had a gas flap! I got in 
> the car and took it for a drive and ended up a fast food place had 
> to open the door to give the my order at the drive through. Then I 
> drove through with the door open and got all kinds of questions and 
> admirers. I don't own a D yet but I'm getting closer.
> 
> Merry Christmas All!








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 14:17:40 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Replacing thermo time switch.



I want to change my thermotime switch soon. I havent taken it apart 
yet so I dont know whats in there exactly. Do I need to remove the 
screw adapter 102122 ? If I do remove this adapter should I replace 
its washer seal 102011 ?  

Or do I just unscrew the sensor from the adapter, leaving the adapter 
connected to the water pump? 

Should I reassamble any of these with teflon tape or some other 
thread sealer?

thanks,

adam 16683








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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 14:48:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Axel seal replacement tricks



Another point to make. When you remove the half-shaft from the output
flange most likely you are going to want to leave it hanging there. If
you do decide not to remove it from the car you should not let it
hang. The C/V boot is held on by a thin shell at the large end. If you
let the shaft drop (hang) you will bend the shell out of shape. Either
hold it up with a piece of wire or better yet remove it and relube the
joints. If the boots are in good shape all it will take besides time
is some grease and some new bands (4 large and 4 small if you do both).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Hi Knut,
> 
> Dave & Dave are right of course. Especially regarding not adjusting 
> that pre-load nut on the driver's side. Rob Grady confirmed this for 
> me, just in case you wanted to hear it from an actual service 
> 








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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 11:34:46 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Let it snow let it snow let it snow


Hi
 
I was supposed to be In Chicago today to do some final arrangements for the  
DeLorean Car Show Chicago at Pheasant run.
 
After leaving at 4:30 AM and fighting 14-24 inches of snow (keep in mind 2"  
in Cincinnati will cripple the city) I made it to the airport.  I did check  
before I left and it said that my flight was on time and on schedule.  
 
But due to a little blizzard when I got there the airport was closed until  
11:30 with limited flights and all Chicago flights were canceled.
 
So I fought the snow and returned home.
 
I think bad weather follows the show.  Remember the rain at a few of  them 
(now you know why we do indoor shows).
 
Anyway to make a long story short I got snowed out and did not make  it.
 
Dave S, Rich W and Bryan P picked up the slack and met with them for me and  
are still there now as I type. 
 
Just thinking warm things on this snowy day
 
They are showing the stuck Fed Ex truck I had to maneuver around on TV  "COOL"
On The way back I called WLW radio and got to be on the radio as I talked  
about the traffic since I was one of the few and I mean few on the roads  today.
 
Well I am still working on the show even when it is snowing.  
 
Reschedule Date is Jan 28 ( am I a glutton for punishment or what) 
 
Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow
 
Merry Christmas to you all 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 23:17:34 -0000
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Anyone in the area want to attend this Event in January?



Jan 21-23 South Carolina International Auto Show Palmetto Expo 
Center Greenville SC US 

http://www.carshownews.com/national/SC.htm









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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 17:21:39 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch



There are several problems in the headlight circuit. One already
mentioned is the running lights are not piloted and the switch carries
the full current. You should install a relay to pilot the running
lights. This can easily be done with all wiring being accomplished in
the relay compartment.

While this will remove the load from the switch it does nothing for
short circuit protection of the headlight switch power feed. One of
the many achillies heels of the Delorean's wiring is how some of the
fusing is located far from the power source. In some cases there is no
fusing at all. For example the headlight switch feed (labled NU on the
diagram) runs from the power distribution point all the way to the
headlight switch and then back to the relay compartment where it
powers the main beam relay. This line has no fusing. The same is true
of the power feed (labeled NR) to the ignition switch. It runs all the
way to the dash and then returns to the relay compartment with no
fusing. This is fundamentally poor electrical design. Any short to
ground in these two lines will result in the wiring burning up. 

I suggest you do the following: 1) Pilot the running lights with a
relay. This will likely save you from replacement of the switch at
some point in the future. 2) Add inline fusing on both the above
mentioned lines as close to the power distribution point as possible.
You can do this by removing the back board then removing the tape from
the harness and adding inline fuse holders. You can run them back to
the fuse compartment to make them acessable. Ths will add short
circuit protection to these feeds at the source. Otherwise you run a
risk of an electrical event that will at minimum destroy the wiring
and at maximum start a fire.

There are several other issues in the car's electrical system but I'll
leave those for another time.

Greg








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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 07:15:57 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Frequency valve buzzing when key in "ON" position?



Happy Holidays List,

While most of you are probably inside enjoying your days off, I'm 
out in the garage in the 20 degree weather trying to get my car to 
run!  I had a few questions as I'm still trying to get my car to run 
correctly.  

1.  Is the frequency valve supposed to buzz when the key is in 
the "ON" position? (engine not running)

2.  I was testing the #3 fuel injector.  When I jumped the RPM relay 
and placed it into a bottle, it didn't spray.  I pressed down on the 
air meter plate, and it sprayed, but when I let go of the air meter 
plate, it continued to spray until I "un-jumped" the RPM relay.  Is 
this how it's supposed to act, or is my distributor plunger 
sticking?  I have had the distributor out of the car for about a 
month, so I wasn't sure if it needed to have gas flowing through it 
to lubricate things again or not?  


thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 06:47:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Door acting weird


My experience with outside temps is as you say: colder = lower strut
resistance. Since my Houston struts are much stronger than my Grady
pair, I use them in the winter, then swap back to Rob's in the spring.
Gives me fairly consistent door operation year 'round.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi Group,
> 
> Winter is finally creeping into the South. I drive my DeLorean daily 
> and I've noticed my driver's side door acting strangely sometimes 
> when the temperature is below the mid 30s. The door shoots open and 
> I have to pad it's ascent to prevent it from bouncing hard. I'm 
> baffled... normally during colder temps we have to help our doors up 
> instead of preventing them from flying up.





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 18:20:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing thermo time switch.



Why are you replacing the switch? They don't seem to go bad often so
if you have a problem this probably won't correct it. In any case you
don't have to remove the adapter fitting. You don't have to use
anything on the switch but you can use thread-lock, thread sealer, or
teflon tape. You will have to bleed the air out after you replace the
switch. You can reuse the washer seal if you do remove the adapter. If
you want you can smear a small amount of silicone on it but it should
seal without it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I want to change my thermotime switch soon. I havent taken it apart 
> yet so I dont know whats in there exactly. Do I need to remove the 









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