From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2393
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2004 2:28 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Tachometer Flicker
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: VIN 5898 back on the road - auto to manual
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

3. Re: Tachometer Flicker
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

4. AC Dashboard Panel Removal
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Relays For Door Lock Module
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: Tachometer Flicker
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. RE: Door rod adjustment?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Extra Hose
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Volvo F Series CO Values
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: Tachometer Flicker
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

11. Delay interior light not working
From: "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Door rod adjustment?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Tachometer Flicker
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Shop manual
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: First time for everything...
From: "Jennifer Moe" <jennymoe4_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

17. RE: Re: In the Name of World Peace
From: "Timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

18. Lotus Engine Conversion & More!
From: "ardont" <tamir_at_dml_entermyworld.com>

19. Re: Shop manual
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Extra Hose
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Delay interior light not working
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. RE: Lotus Engine Conversion & More!
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

23. Q Panel & Louvers Needed (Maybe)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

24. Re: Volvo F Series CO Values
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: VIN 5898 back on the road - auto to manual
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:02:44 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Tachometer Flicker


Good job checking the items I suggested. I believe from your description the
problem is due to a "No ground" condition at the front frame extension. This
is the ground connection that is closest to the tach. 

You said: "I see NO ground wires in the vicinity of the RH or LH horns..."

I suspect that sometime in the past the ground wiring harness in question
was disconnected and not replaced. Look around the area of the LH front
frame extension for this harness, it will be in the area of the windshield
washer reservoir. 

DMC Joe  

-----Original Message-----
From: drdhdmd [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 10:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tachometer Flicker




OK, I checked and cleaned fuse #1. I have a new rotor, cap, wire and plugs.

I checked to see if the flickering was affected by loading and it doesn't
change with lights, A/C, fans and or defroster.

I tightened the main frame ground by the RH trailing arm bracket.

I tightned the auxilary ground on the RR frame member.

I see NO ground wires in the vacinity of the RH or LH horns...where are the
wires that are supposed to be grounded by the LH horn bracket supposed to be
coming from?

No joy still flickering.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

D & 6530
















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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 17:30:46 +0000 (GMT)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: VIN 5898 back on the road - auto to manual


Hi Darryl.
So what are all the problems you encountered? My car is currently undergoing the same conversion. I think the only frame modifications my mechanic (Paul O'Malley) has done is change the transmission mounts. It has been sitting for over 3 months now.
 
Thanks,
Thomas

mydmc5898 <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:



Well first off thanks to everyone who helped me with parts, advice 
and support! Josh, Ken, John Harvey, PJ Gradys and DMCH, and my 
mechanic Ted, and many many more, I have to go through to get 
everyone's name, for getting my dream car back on the road. I got it 
back today... I'm in debt now but I got it back!!!! I have to admit 
there is a much quicker acceleration on the 5-speed compared to when 
5898 was an automatic. I still need to take it around, it sat for 
close to 9months. So it needs to be taken around a bit, I did get 
started in that time BTW.

Well thanks again, only problems so far is a small leak in the seal 
around the tranny, and the CV joints need to be touched on.... other 
then that we are good.... hopefully this time,

Thanks again!
Darryl
VIN 5898





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:11:14 -0000
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Tachometer Flicker


I had this problem and it turned out to be the mounting nuts that hold it to 
the binnacle PCB.  They had worked loose enough to still hold it in place 
but the connection was not tight enough hence the fluctuating reading...

>From memory there are 6 nuts that hold the binnacle down after undoing them 
it is just a case of undoing the upper speedo cable from the back, main 
wiring harness from the pcb etc and then the ret of the binnacle screws are 
easily accessible once you have it on your lap.

Good luck

Chris Hawes
vin 5255 fully working binnacle

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 3:57 AM
Subject: [DML] Tachometer Flicker


OK, I checked and cleaned fuse #1. I have a new rotor, cap, wire and
plugs.

I checked to see if the flickering was affected by loading and it
doesn't change with lights, A/C, fans and or defroster.

I tightened the main frame ground by the RH trailing arm bracket.

I tightned the auxilary ground on the RR frame member.

I see NO ground wires in the vacinity of the RH or LH horns...where
are the wires that are supposed to be grounded by the LH horn bracket
supposed to be coming from?

No joy still flickering.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

D & 6530




-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.298 / Virus Database: 265.6.6 - Release Date: 28/12/2004






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:14:45 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC Dashboard Panel Removal



Hi,  I recently replaced the radio in my Delorean and had it 
installed at the store.  While they were installing it they called 
me into the install bay to tell me that 3 of the AC panel back 
lights burned out.  They also said that the automatic gear shift 
light was burned out.  I did not see how they took off the AC panel 
so I don't know how without breaking one of the knobs.  How do I get 
it off so I can replace the bulbs?

Thanks everybody,

Japheth VIN: 1223








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:28:14 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Relays For Door Lock Module


Buy any hermetically sealed units rated to 10A minimum. Don't continue 
to use the open type originally used as this is the main problem with 
the unit

Martin

p12c16 wrote:

>
>Does anyone happen to have the RadioShack part # for the replacement
>relays for the door lock module?  I plan on replacing mine, and would
>like to do it ASAP instead of waiting to purchase them from a vendor
>and have them shipped.  Any help is appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Patrick
>1880
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:27:13 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Tachometer Flicker


Make sure your battery terminals are tight, check also the coil is okay 
and connected correctly, also the alternator may be bad. I've known of 
one ignition module on a running engine put out spurious signals but 
that caused an erratic idle too.

Martin

drdhdmd wrote:

>
>OK, I checked and cleaned fuse #1. I have a new rotor, cap, wire and 
>plugs.
>
>I checked to see if the flickering was affected by loading and it 
>doesn't change with lights, A/C, fans and or defroster.
>
>I tightened the main frame ground by the RH trailing arm bracket.
>
>I tightned the auxilary ground on the RR frame member.
>
>I see NO ground wires in the vacinity of the RH or LH horns...where 
>are the wires that are supposed to be grounded by the LH horn bracket 
>supposed to be coming from?
>
>No joy still flickering.
>
>Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>D & 6530
>
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:47:32 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Door rod adjustment?


 
Duke,

This is a common problem and can be corrected by adjusting the exterior
handle adjustment located at the upper portion of the LATCH RELEASE LINK
BELLCRANK ASSY. Instructions on this procedure can be found in the Technical
Information Manual or Service Bulletin ST-10-8/81 "Door Latch and Lock
Setting Procedure". 

PS: I know we have spoken before; if you need additional assistance you can
contact me "off list".

DMC Joe
 
-----Original Message-----
From: William Bladorn [mailto:at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 10:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door rod adjustment?



I've been having a slight problem out of my passenger side door.  Sometimes
I have a problem with it opening from the outside.  It seems to open fine
from the inside, just the outside has a problem.  It seems to hang more
towards the front of the car.  The back will, most of the time, start to
open, but gets hung up on the front side.  Could anyone tell me exactly what
rod to adjust to help solve this problem?

Thanks for any help! :)

Duke 






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:46:02 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Extra Hose



While searching for the front LH ground I noticed a small rubber 
hose, about 1/8" ID that is hanging loose under the front of the car 
by the brake booster and enters the passenger compartment in the same 
grommet as the speedo cable.  Is this supposed to be there?  If so 
where is it supposed to connect?  I'll have to get under the dash and 
see where it goes...

Happy almost New Year

D & 6530








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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 18:59:00 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Volvo F Series CO Values



To Gary: First, I did back off. I stated I would not respond or
escalate the the issue any further and I haven't. I don't feel I was
attacking Marc. My point was the apathy of the list concerning "Sonny"
seems to indicate Marc's antics were less than useful and that he (by
his own admission) is "controversal". If he feels that way others may
also. Second, if he has an issue with me then that's his problem and
he should ignore my posts. Third, if my "attitude" is a higher
priority for you (or anyone else) than my advice I recommend you/they
simply do the same. Otherwise I consider the matter closed.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:

> FYI under warm-up conditions, lambda sensor disconnected, and, 
> crucially, *when the full throttle microswitch is pressed* all have 
> exactly the same effect, electrically speaking. This assumes your
full throttle switch is working.<

First Martin, thanks for the kind words. I don't quite follow the
above statement. Perhaps my previous comments were also not clear to
you. It's true when the O2 sensor is cold the Lambda is driving the
frequency valve at a fixed duty cycle and the system is operating in
open loop. It's also true if the WOT switch is pressed or the coolant
switch is made (they're in parallel) this fixed duty cycle will be set
so as to make the mixture even richer. The WOT switch should not
active durning warm-up so I don't see what you're getting at. But as
noted, it's true if the coolant temperature is below 60F the same
input will be set low so the same level of enrichment will occur. It's
important to remember the Lambda system is a mixture "trim" and
doesn't set primary mixture. 

> However, I have to stick up for Bill here - all the B28F's I've ever
put on an analyser with lambda system working work at around 1% CO.<

You need to expand on what you mean by the lambda "working". It
"works" in several modes. Open loop alone, open loop with coolant (or
WOT) switch closed, closed loop with hot O2 sensor alone, closed loop
with WOT switch closed, ect. The CO should be set at 1% with the
engine warm and the O2 sensor disconected. The reason for this is the
CO must be set to a level where it will be within range of the ability
of the Lambda to reduce it further downward when operating in closed
loop. The lambda controller is programed to detect a "bad" sensor and
output a default fixed duty cycle to the frequency valve. That's the
entire reason the manual states the CO must be set with the sensor
disconneted. For example, if the mixture were set to 10% CO the lambda
would be unable to control it further. Again, lambda is a fuel trim
system. It does not set primary miture in either a Delorean or a
modern engine management system using OBD. The lambda's sole function
is to condition the exhaust stream to within the narrow operating
range of the converter.

O2 sensors and lambda systems are designed to operate at a lambda of
1. If you observe a CO of 1% in the exhaust stream of an engine with
the lambda working in closed loop you have a definate problem. It's
mathematically impossible to have a lambda of 1 with a CO of 1% and
any correctly working lambda system will not allow a CO level that
high. I have never seen a vehicle (including a Delorean) where the CO
level will be anywhere near 1% with a properly operating emission
system. This makes perfect sense when one considers how lambda fuel
trim is designed to operate. Remember, I'm talking about tailpipe
emissions here. Engine out emissions measure prior to the O2 sensor
will be higher and CO would be around 1% on a Delorean if the mixture
has been set proeprly. 

>And I have the luxury of servicing a large number of D's without
catalytic convertors.<

A luxury indeed. The emissions will be higher at that CO level and
power will be improved (best power doesn't occur at a lambda of 1),
but a converter would suffer. At high CO levels there will be
insufficient oxygen in the stream for the converter to operate because
CO and O2 are inversly proportional.

>I too have access to a different set of manuals  specifically the
Renault K-Jet manual which also tells the same story for the Swiss
Emissions controlled version of the Renault 30. The mixture screw does
nothing more than adjust the offset of the fuelling graph - ie the "C"
in the Y=Mx+C and has little or no effect, proportinally speaking,
higher in the rev range where the cat is working hardest.<

If the lambda system is working properly the cat never works harder
at 
any power range. It's the lambda system that works harder. The cat
expects to receive a stream as close to stoichiometeric as possible
and that is where the lambda is designed to operate. And CO is not the
only issue. I don't know what type of analyzer you have but a 5 gas
bench would give you much greater insight on how the engine is
operating beyond what the lambda trim is doing.

>I'd also invite you to see what the CO does at idle when the 
> full throttle switch is pressed. I think you'll be surprised to see
the CO skyrocket to a level that would fail an emissions test in the
UK, let alone California!<

Yes of course. I typically see around 4 or 5% on a converter equipped
Delorean at the tailpipe under those conditions. It shows how limited
the cat is and why lambda trim systems are needed during other times.
It also implies any ownerr with a cat had better be sure his or her
WOT or coolant switch is not stuck closed. The converter won't
tolerate those levels for long, not to mention it will be inoperative
during that time. 

Emission standards are never decided for WOT operation and every
vehicle, even OBD II systems, are designed to run rich there. There is
always a method to "defeat" the lambda system under full throttle.
It's done by fuel mapping software in a modern EFI car but in the
Delorean it's a simple matter of bringing the WOT input low which
switches to a fixed frequency valve duty cycle. Then again, you seem
to understand that. Frankly a much better way to set power when tuning
an engine at WOT is by measurement of exhaust gas temeperature but
we'll leave that for another discussuion.

In conclusion I'm not still sure of the point you were trying to make.
My response to Bill was that an idle CO of 1% should be set with the
engine hot and the lambda operating in open loop with, making sure the
WOT or coolant switch is inactive. With the engine hot the O2 sensor
will be active and must be disconnected because trying to set mixture
with it connected will simply shift the lamdba either way in it's
operating band. If you're servicing cars and setting CO with the loop
closed you're making a mistake in doing so. In fact if you set CO to
1% with the sensor disconnected and then connect it you should see CO
drop to below 1%. If you're looking for best power from such a setup
you've defeated your purpose by reconnecting the sensor. Also (due to
the nature of the lambda system used in the Delorean, there will
always be a certain amount of hysteresis. It's not a very well
designed trim system but it does the job.

Perhaps we're in agreement and it's simply a matter of semantics. Or
perhaps your concern is less with emissions and more with power. If
you stil feel different I'll be glad to discuss this further at a
later time. I'm leaving tomorrow to celebrate New Years abroad and
will be unable to respond for a week or so. I hope your New Year also
goes well.

Greg








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 15:52:32 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Tachometer Flicker


Try running a separate ground wire directly from the battery to the tach
ground. If the flicker stops then it IS a ground problem. Otherwise you're
just chasing your tail.

You say you "Tightened" the ground connections. The proper procedure is to
dismantle the connection, clean down to bare metal with a wire brush or sand
paper, and re-assemble. Some use silicone grease or chassis grease on the
bare metal to resist corrosion.

<I see NO ground wires in the vacinity of the RH or LH horns...where 
are the wires that are supposed to be grounded by the LH horn bracket 
supposed to be coming from?> The horns have two wires, purple/black and
black. The black wire is the ground wire.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: drdhdmd [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 10:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tachometer Flicker

OK, I checked and cleaned fuse #1. I have a new rotor, cap, wire and 
plugs.

I checked to see if the flickering was affected by loading and it 
doesn't change with lights, A/C, fans and or defroster.

I tightened the main frame ground by the RH trailing arm bracket.

I tightned the auxilary ground on the RR frame member.

I see NO ground wires in the vacinity of the RH or LH horns...where 
are the wires that are supposed to be grounded by the LH horn bracket 
supposed to be coming from?






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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 15:17:49 -0600
From: "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Delay interior light not working


I've got another question about the delay setup of the interior lights.  My 
door lights work fine and the cabin light works but the delay feature 
doesn't work.  I was looking at the wiring diagram and it shows a relay but 
I'm not quite sure what relay that is in the electrical compartment.  Also, 
I don't have my rear light hooked up.  Could this possibly cause the delay 
feature not to work or could the relay or something else be causing this 
problem?

Thanks!

Duke






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 21:30:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door rod adjustment?



Generally there is not any one particular rod out of adjustment. I
usually see where you have to tweak everything. When everything is
only slightly off it all seems to add up and cause problems. The
"best" plan-of-attack is to just go over ALL of the adjustments
including the anchor pins. Anyway, when you start adjusting things
some adjustments affect others so you really need to do them all and
in the order in the Workshop Manual. Do all the internal door
adjustments and then do the anchor pins. Take your time and try to
really get it *right*. You will see a big difference between a door
that closes when you slam it and one that closes correctly. If you do
it right you should not be able to lock it unless it is fully closed
on both locks in the 2nd locking position. You also won't be banging
on the anchor pins when you close the door, they should glide right
into the middle of the lock without hitting the guides or the door, or
the ends of the pins. It takes a lot of trial-and-error to get it
right (at least for the first time). Be careful inside the door on all
the exposed, sharp edges.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> I've been having a slight problem out of my passenger side door. 
Sometimes 
> I have a problem with it opening from the outside.  It seems to open
fine 
> from the inside, just the outside has a problem.  It seems to hang 








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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 21:20:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tachometer Flicker



It could be a bad/loose connection anywhere between the motor and the
tach. This includes the plugs that go into the back of the Instrument
Panel and the connections of the tack into the printed circuit. It is
also possible that the tach is bad. The ground wires near the horn are
actually attached the the front left radiator support where it
attaches to the frame (at least that is where they are supposed to
be). I do not think it will be a system problem, if it was then you
would probably hear the motor "skip a beat". It is most likely a
problem with the tach circuit itself. Does it flicker in any pattern
or is it random?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> OK, I checked and cleaned fuse #1. I have a new rotor, cap, wire and 
> plugs.
> 









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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 13:48:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shop manual


Any of the major DeLorean vendors at
http://www.dmcnews.com

Just go to the vendors link and you'll get a list of
major DeLorean vendors (Houston, PJ Grady,
SpecialTAuto, DeLoream Motor Center, and DeLorean
Parts).  I would personally suggest getting all 3:
parts, workshop, and technical manual.


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
All your favorites on one personal page  Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 21:51:23 -0000
From: "Jennifer Moe" <jennymoe4_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: First time for everything...


I have had a couple of people take my picture too, on the road, at a 
stop light.  The first time I was like do I smile or wave? 

One time stands out the most.  I was just getting back from the 
gorcery store and I pulled into my apartment parking lot and parked 
my D by the front door so I could unload it.  I grabbed as much as I 
could and brought it inside.  I come back out and there is this 
young guy (about my age) standing by my car taking a picture.  I 
really startled him when I asked if he wanted me to open the door so 
he could have a better shot of the car.  (I mean really that's what 
people want to see, the gull wing doors open)  He gave me a nervous 
laugh and said, "well if you wouldn't mind . . ." So I opened the 
door and he took another shot and turned to me and said, "My friends 
are gonna flip, I wanted a picture because my car looks like a 
DeLorean"  I just smiled at him and he darted off back to his car 
and left.  Yeah his silver 1994 volve hatchback really looked like 
my DeLorean.  It was pretty funny, well he did get a good shot of 
the D though to show his friends.

Jennifer
02879
LIC 2FUTURE    


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I remember coming up to PF - there were two DeLoreans
> - mine and Casey's. I had a guy to my left in a jeep
> taking pictures with his camera phone.  He'd go behind
> me, around me, and up front taking pictures.  Then he
> went up to the next DeLorean in front of me and did
> the same thing.  Madness dude, but wow what a feeling.
>  Only driving a DeLorean.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> --- Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 00:29:50 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions



One of my upcoming projects is to install a new EL backlit dash
(ordered from SpeedHut who began selling after the last distributor
stopped).  One of the things I'd like to attempt as well is to replace
the needles with the more modern translucent plastic variety.

I've recently acquired all the parts I want to install in the
binnacle, but I'd like to hear if anyone else has replaced the needles
in their instrument cluster.  Any tricks to it or special concerns? 
With the new ones I bought, I don't know yet if I'll have to expand
their holes or fill them in some, but I imagine hot glue will suffice
for filling such space if needed... does anyone know if this would /
wouldn't work out for a particular reason?

Also, the new needles I have are the deep orange type you see on
almost every modern instrument cluster.  I got them from SpeedHut when
I ordered the dash kit.  I'd actually prefer frosty white or yellow,
but had a hard enough time finding these (not a normal SpeedHut item;
haven't seen needles online... oh, don't search for "guage needles" if
you're not prepared to see interesting things).  If someone does know
where to get other colors, I'd be much obliged.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 21:14:29 -0500
From: "Timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: In the Name of World Peace


I would like to second this about Marc.  Unfortunately there are a lot of
things that go on like this behind the scenes and some people agree with
statements like these and wish something would be said.  Some people decide
not to say anything based on fear of retaliation.  There is enough
controversy surrounding the man, the car, and the company without
perpetuating some of these myths by causing new problems and issues.

Everyone should feel completely free to post on any group.  As someone
stated to me off list, this is a "Biff Tannen" complex; you let them get
away with it and they keep doing it.  The more people who speak up about
things like this, as Marc quite often carries the full brunt of the
controversy, the less likely these controversies will happen.

Greg <--- my REAL name, and NOT that other Greg.




-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Hull [mailto:Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 8:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: In the Name of World Peace




Greg, (or whoever you are :-)

>From your latest post, you seem to think that people were just tired of
hearing from Marc.

I think it's important that you understand that people are also tired of
your style of help - filled with multiple lines of put-downs to others and
ego-building for yourself.

Some of us were glad that Marc spoke up, but sorry that you didn't
understand where he was coming from and just back off.

I greatly appreciate the advice you provide, but it is often hard to find
-buried in all of your "attitude".

Let ALL try to be nice - and I'll back off too.

Gary
IN2TIME






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 02:24:03 -0000
From: "ardont" <tamir_at_dml_entermyworld.com>
Subject: Lotus Engine Conversion & More!



Hi All,

I don't usually write in to talk about updates, but I have added a 
section on a new engine conversion that everyone will want to see.  
A full engine conversion to a Lotus Twin Turbo V8, very impressive 
stuff.  You can see it under the Custom D's section of my site.  

http://www.entermyworld.com

Also added in this update is the full Pigeon Forge update, which has 
many personal interviews with some of the key speakers and much much 
more.  

More updates will be going up in the next few weeks, so keep on 
stopping by to get your DeLorean fix. :)

Regards,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 03:11:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Shop manual



Actually the 3 you want to get are the following in order of importance:
Workshop Manual
Bulletins and Recalls
Parts Manual
The Technical manual is not all that necessary for most people as is
the Parts Manual. The Bulletins and Recalls is important but once you
go over the car with it you will never look at it again. The Workshop
Manual is THE one you MUST have. BTW you can download the Parts Manual
from several places. The Bulletins and Recalls can be found
individually in several places too. If you do not have an Owner's
Manual you should consider getting one of them too. Another nice touch
would be a logbook of any sort so you can keep a record of the work
you do and when it was done.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> Any of the major DeLorean vendors at
> http://www.dmcnews.com
> 
> Just go to the vendors link and you'll get a list of
> major DeLorean vendors (Houston, PJ Grady,
> SpecialTAuto, DeLoream Motor Center, and DeLorean
> Parts).  I would personally suggest getting all 3:
> parts, workshop, and technical manual.
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> All your favorites on one personal page  Try My Yahoo!
> http://my.yahoo.com








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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 03:03:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Extra Hose



It is not supposed to be there. My guess is that it is NOT a vacuum
hose. It may be a wire and it may be from some kind of accessory like
a radar detector. The only hoses in that area are the cooling hose,
the A/C hose, the large vacuum hose to the brake booster, the clutch
hose (if it's a 5-speed), and the small vacuum hose that is for the
vapor recovery system from the fuel tank. The small metal pipes are
for the brakes. Another possability is the washer fluid hose which is
not where it should be.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> While searching for the front LH ground I noticed a small rubber 
> hose, about 1/8" ID that is hanging loose under the front of the car 
> by the brake booster and enters the passenger compartment in the same 
> grommet as the speedo cable.  Is this supposed to be there?  If so 
> where is it supposed to connect?  I'll have to get under the dash and 
> see where it goes...
> 
> Happy almost New Year
> 
> D & 6530








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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 03:21:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Delay interior light not working



The delay feature doesn't work on most Deloreans. At one time a vender
offerred an adjustable delay and there was a tech tip on how to modify
a delay relay to make it adjustable. None of them ever worked very
well so most people have given up. The majority of Delorean owners
probably don't even know the delay ever existed. Like a lot don't know
that the steering wheel not only adjusts up and down (a little) but is
goes in and out (a little). The problem is, if it hasn't been moved in
20 years, it doesn't move easily anymore. The relay is easily
identified. Refer to M:07:01-:02. It is #23, the white one. It is NOT
interchangeable with any other relay. Not having the rear light hooked
up shouldn't matter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> I've got another question about the delay setup of the interior
lights.  My 
> door lights work fine and the cabin light works but the delay feature 
> doesn't work.  I was looking at the wiring diagram and it shows a
relay but 
> I'm not quite sure what relay that is in the electrical compartment.
 Also, 
> I don't have my rear light hooked up.  Could this possibly cause the
delay 
> feature not to work or could the relay or something else be causing
this 
> problem?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Duke








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 22:06:46 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: Lotus Engine Conversion & More!


Wow, wow, and....wow.

I hope Robert will post some dyno numbers and hopefully some 1/4 times
at one point. That's probably one of the sweetest conversions ever!

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
VIN: Griff's BMW

-----Original Message-----
From: ardont [mailto:tamir_at_dml_entermyworld.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 9:24 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Lotus Engine Conversion & More!





Hi All,

I don't usually write in to talk about updates, but I have added a 
section on a new engine conversion that everyone will want to see.  
A full engine conversion to a Lotus Twin Turbo V8, very impressive 
stuff.  You can see it under the Custom D's section of my site.  

http://www.entermyworld.com

Also added in this update is the full Pigeon Forge update, which has 
many personal interviews with some of the key speakers and much much 
more.  

More updates will be going up in the next few weeks, so keep on 
stopping by to get your DeLorean fix. :)

Regards,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 04:39:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Q Panel & Louvers Needed (Maybe)



I returned from Christmas vacation to discover that Mother Nature is
not a DeLorean fan. Major ice storm struck southeast North Carolina
while I was out of town (most of Laurinburg now resembles Beruit,
except the stoplights are still working over there). Humongous limb
broke off one of my pines, then spun around into the DeLo. Could have
been worse -- bulk of it landed diagonally between the DeLo and 3
Lincolns. Damage was actually caused by the pointed end broken from
the trunk digging into my quarter panel like a pick ax.

Pics have been uploaded to #5939's photo album for the morbidly
curious (don't worry Dave -- I'll knock them down after this thread is
exhausted).

I will quote the insurance company NOS replacement prices. Should they
come back with a bogus settlement, however, I may simply repair with
used pieces (are you paying attention Josh or Ken?). Adjuster is
totally inundated, so it will be several weeks before I know for sure.

With hat in hand, I humbly ask the List to start checking their spares
now for a straight quarter panel (glass optional), perhaps antenna
vent, side vent, and mouldings should mine not survive transfer, and a
set of louvers. If you have as little success contacting people off
list via Yahoo truncated eMail addresses as I do, mine is:
brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Louvers are actually quite repairable if necessary. Engine cover was
cracked by PO, but the insurance company doesn't know that...

House across the street lost a limb straight down into its roof --
things could have been worse.

Lincolns survived without a scratch BTW. Blue Lincoln wasn't even
under its cover. Mother Nature is obviously a Ford fan.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 03:44:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo F Series CO Values



And *MY* point (go back and read Message #47357 again) had absolutely
nothing to do with tuning whatsoever. I was merely stating that
DeLorean's published Lambda specs are identical to Volvo's F series
B28 -- just one more aspect among many in which the two engines are
identical. Like it or not, in Dunmurry trim we all pack basically the
same heat as a domestic 260 (turning Renault transmissions of course).

It is worth noting that Volvo used smog pumps on their North American
PRV's. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> In conclusion I'm not still sure of the point you were trying to make.
> My response to Bill was that an idle CO of 1% should be set with the
> engine hot and the lambda operating in open loop with, making sure the
> WOT or coolant switch is inactive. With the engine hot the O2 sensor
> will be active and must be disconnected because trying to set mixture
> with it connected will simply shift the lamdba either way in it's
> operating band. If you're servicing cars and setting CO with the loop
> closed you're making a mistake in doing so. In fact if you set CO to
> 1% with the sensor disconnected and then connect it you should see CO
> drop to below 1%. If you're looking for best power from such a setup
> you've defeated your purpose by reconnecting the sensor. Also (due to
> the nature of the lambda system used in the Delorean, there will
> always be a certain amount of hysteresis. It's not a very well
> designed trim system but it does the job.
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 21:07:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: VIN 5898 back on the road - auto to manual


Well the only real problems that we encountered was we had to drill holes into the frame to get the cables for the shifter to pass through. We were able to avoid wleding the frame to fit the shifter by using spacers. I have an email I have to find that will give you all that info. The only other problem was just the usual rewiring and making sure everything went back the same, I'll find that email and send it to you. 

Darryl

VIN 5898





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