From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2397
Date: Saturday, January 01, 2005 6:45 PM


There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

2. Ignition ECU Schematic
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

3. The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. front coil spring removal
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Opinion for first time buyers
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: front coil spring removal
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

8. Re: Opinion for first time buyers
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

9. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

10. Re: Opinion for first time buyers
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

11. Re: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: (sorry guys) Delay interior light not working revisited
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

13. Re: Opinion for first time buyers
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: respect and courtesy
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Re: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Opinion for first time buyers
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:54:38 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


 
 
John,
 
If I killed the AC pulse I would think the engine would die not run  better.

Basically you killed the AC pulse so the ECU has nothing to  read.


 
Thank  you,

Dē & 6530





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 22:03:57 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Ignition ECU Schematic



Does anyone out there have the schematic to the ignition ECU.

Care to share??

Pretty please, be your best friend!!

Dave & 6530








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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:52:24 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


Well I put a scope on the input to the ignition ECU and found that when I  
put the 2.2uF cap across the pickup coil it reduces the amplitude a bit and  
makes it look smoother.  Again this smoothes out the idle and no  flickering.
 
Now for the next part of the puzzle.  Today I put a 390 ohm resistor  across 
the pickup coil and it also "cures" the problem and it works at all RPM  
ranges.  I could leave it that way but I know something is wrong. The  question is 
what?
 
I have been trying two different ignition ECUs.  Do they both have the  same 
weird problem?  Is it the pickup coil itself?  I tried added  grounds to the 
ECU and also replace the wire from the pickup coil connector to  the ECU.  No 
change.
 
Any  opinions?
 
Dē &  6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 22:02:55 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the hot glue warning!  In case the holes on the new needles
> are too large, does anyone have a recommendation for the most
> approriate filler that will allow future removal / replacement as
> needed?
> --Greg
> #2894

In that case I would recommend Elmer's Glue.  Its got a decent hold
but will break off of smooth surfaces relatively easy.

It is a shame the original cluster is not completely UV responsive. 
But of all things the needles should be the easiest to paint a white
UV ink onto.  That gives me an idea.  A friend of mine recently
pruchased a "spypen".  It is a sharpie-type permanent marker which is
only visible in UV light.  I'll take one of my spare gauges and
needles to the New Years party tonight we'll be at and see how well
that particular item works. I'll post again either this evening or
tomorrow with the results. I'm excited now.

Jim Reeve
DMC6960








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:21:09 -0800 (PST)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: front coil spring removal


I'm trying to remove the front coil spring for
replacement.
The workshop manual make it sound so easy... but I am
having a dickens of a time trying to get the ball
joint out and it appears to be impossible to remove
the front coil without removing the ball joint, and it
appears to be impossible to remove the ball joint
without a pickle fork as an old newsletter of Knuts
calls it.

Does anyone have some tricks or tips for me?

Thanks...
Kevin
4687





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 07:05:24 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Opinion for first time buyers



I am about to buy my first DeLorean. What should I do first? Buy the 
car or the shop amnuals? Or should I even buy a DeLorean? I have 
wanted one for as long as I can emember and have enough money to buy 
a low..guality car. I know it will be alot of work and money and have 
thought about it for some time know but there are some people out 
there determined to keep from DeLorean ownership. 

-Josh








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 01:33:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal


Hi Kevin,
Yes you do have to seperate the ball joints from the
control arms to get the spring out.You can probably
leave the upper one there but I removed the upper
control arm to give me more room to fit the spring
compressor on the spring.
To seperate the lower control arm from the ball joint
I used the claw on a claw hammer as a lever against
the ball joint.I put the claw between the control arm
and the steering knuckle and levered it up and down
and the ball joint popped right out.
Also be sure to check the condition of your control
arms while it's all apart.My lower one on the left
side cracked recently.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 04:18:23 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Opinion for first time buyers



Josh,

The very first thing (in my opinion), even before buying the car, is buy the
shop manual set.  If you have to second guess spending a hundred bucks on
manuals, you shouldn't be buying a classic exotic.  Spend some time reading
those, the DML archives and everything on the DMC News site --especially
this piece by Dave Stragand:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/restoration.htm

As for my recommendation, I'd say don't buy a DeLorean.  I don't mean not
ever.  -Just not now.  I recall from a previous post that you were looking
to spend $6000.  That's about the same price that most are paying for parts
cars.  If I can paraphrase Daniel from Orlando, he put it best when he said
that DeLoreans are cheap to buy, but expensive to own.  If you want to
restore a $6K car, I would budget at least $200 per week for the entire next
year for parts and tools.  If not, you're going to spend a lot of time
looking at a lifeless pile of parts that no one thinks is cool, your parents
don't understand, and you can't drive at all --much less up to 88 mph.
Also, have you made sure that you can be insured on it?  What the insurance
going to cost you?

Why are you so "desperate" for a car now?  Judging by your email address, I
assume you're just getting ready to graduate from high school.  Why not
finish college first??  Then you can get a job where they dump a bunch of
money into your bank account and you can buy the DeLorean you really want.
After all the hard work, you'll thank yourself.  I guess I'm saying,
sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way.  Don't get anxious; these
things are going to be around for a long time.

I hope this didn't discourage you, but since you asked....   :-)

Good luck,

Jake Kamphoefner
Driving 1063 in STL

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 1:05 AM
Subject: [DML] Opinion for first time buyers


>
>
>
> I am about to buy my first DeLorean. What should I do first? Buy the
> car or the shop amnuals? Or should I even buy a DeLorean? I have
> wanted one for as long as I can emember and have enough money to buy
> a low..guality car. I know it will be alot of work and money and have
> thought about it for some time know but there are some people out
> there determined to keep from DeLorean ownership.
>
> -Josh
>






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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 09:30:34 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal


To replace the front springs in the car there is no reason to remove the
ball joints!

Here's the proper procedure:
1)Raise the car and place jack stands under the front frame.(not the A arms)
2)Remove the wheels
3)Using a coil spring compressor, compress the front springs.
4)Remove the front shock absorbers
5)Remove the coil springs

remember the coil springs in a compressed state will remove a portion of
your anatomy if suddenly released.:-)

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kevin creason" <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 7:21 PM
Subject: [DML] front coil spring removal
>
> I'm trying to remove the front coil spring for
> replacement.
> The workshop manual make it sound so easy... but I am
> having a dickens of a time trying to get the ball
> joint out and it appears to be impossible to remove
> the front coil without removing the ball joint, and it
> appears to be impossible to remove the ball joint
> without a pickle fork as an old newsletter of Knuts
> calls it.







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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 06:38:52 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Opinion for first time buyers


Before I purchased my D, eight years ago, I purchased the DeLorean Gold 
Portfolio 1977-1995 and really enjoyed it.  Then later got the Stainless 
Steel Illusion, by John Lamm, which has now been reprinted at a nice low 
price.  When I got my car, I also bought three service manuals and after 
that  bought all the  books on the DeLorean by different authors....each one 
pretty much biased but interesting reading anyway.  Some books with many 
cars, but including the D, like "The Worlds Strangest Automobiles" and one 
titled "Motor Makers of Ireland, and even one by John Z's ex wife Cristina 
Ferarre.

Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII 






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 14:50:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge



The pick-up coils have some history of failure. It would appear that 
adding resistence across the coil is putting the pick-up range for 
the ECU back into spec or into a readable range. Did you check the 
induction coil resistance (895-1,285 ohms)?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Well I put a scope on the input to the ignition ECU and found that 
when I  
> put the 2.2uF cap across the pickup coil it reduces the amplitude 
a bit and  
> makes it look smoother.  Again this smoothes out the idle and no  
flickering.
>  
> Now for the next part of the puzzle.  Today I put a 390 ohm 
resistor  across 
> the pickup coil and it also "cures" the problem and it works at 
all RPM  
> ranges.  I could leave it that way but I know something is wrong. 
The  question is 
> what?
>  
> I have been trying two different ignition ECUs.  Do they both have 
the  same 
> weird problem?  Is it the pickup coil itself?  I tried added  
grounds to the 
> ECU and also replace the wire from the pickup coil connector to  
the ECU.  No 
> change.
>  
> Any  opinions?
>  
> Dē &  6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 08:37:19 -0600
From: "Duke" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (sorry guys) Delay interior light not working revisited


Jim and others,

Once again, thanks a lot for the help! I got it working.  After seeing 
John's message, I found that the
single spade connector had the black wire hooked up to it instead of the 
purple wire.  Now it works fine
when you open the door.  Now all that's left for me to fix to have 
EVERYTHING working perfectly
again are the door locks!  They haven't worked since 1985!

Thanks again!

Duke
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> The delay module does not need to be installed for the interior lights
> to work. If your interior lights go on when flipped one way, but not
> the other (when the door is open) my first suspect would be a miswired
> light like John Chapelhow described in message 48016.






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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 09:56:20 EST
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Opinion for first time buyers


Josh having owned my car since '82 I love owning a Delorean so yes I say go  
get one. But here is the rub, money be prepared to spend lots of it, time be  
prepared to learn to be a mechanic since you will find no one else to work on  
it. You will learn a new language working on this car cuss words you have 
never  said in you life will come out of you. You will learn to keep a good 
supply of  band-aids handy. Learn to pray, this is the most aggravating piece of 
equipment  you will ever own, but in spite of it all you will love it.
Andy B 3513


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 16:42:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal



Dave 

What kind of spring compressor are you using when you do it this way? 
I've swapped springs many times and have never seen a compressor 
where you could do it you describe, but I'd sure like to. I've used 
outside strut-type compressors and internal (up the middle of the 
spring) compressors, and have always separated at least the lower 
ball joints. 

I actually prefer to take the upper arm off to get it out of the way 
(and get in there and clean and paint), although if you are just 
doing a quickie spring swap it's annoying to dump the brake 
hydraulics. 

BTW - I have had a spring compressor let go once - I still have no 
idea why it didn't kill me or put a hole in the side of the car. I 
found the compressor parts about 20 feet apart. 

Dave Sw
 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> To replace the front springs in the car there is no reason to 
remove the
> ball joints!
> 
> Here's the proper procedure:
> 1)Raise the car and place jack stands under the front frame.(not 
the A arms)
> 2)Remove the wheels
> 3)Using a coil spring compressor, compress the front springs.
> 4)Remove the front shock absorbers
> 5)Remove the coil springs
> 
> remember the coil springs in a compressed state will remove a 
portion of
> your anatomy if suddenly released.:-)
> 
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573








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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 17:15:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: respect and courtesy



Evil Dan is absolutely correct here. Much of the information that is
exchanged for repairs, history, and the like actually does take place
off list. And it really is to keep the list from getting clogged. If I
have to send and recieve individual e-mails back and forth of each
step, or perhaps if it is to ask/answer a question that has been asked
many times before, or even if it becomes an answer that segways into a
non-DeLorean topic. Alot of this occurs off-list in e-mails, to avoid
cluttering the archives.

I myself would really like to see people begin to sign their posts, as
a courtesy. Even the enthusiats who don't have cars yet, will always
state no VIN, or something of the like. I've always assumed that if no
VIN was included in the signature, than that person did not own a
DeLorean. Even a common handle, or nickname could really go a long
way. However, I can somewhat understand why a person with no ill
intentions may elect not to include their VIN...

The "Sonny V" topic here really caught me by surprise. And let me
explain why. In my mind, I had always thought that Steve Wynn was
perhaps someone who started out like an enthusist, just as many of us
here did. Perhaps he started out with DeLorean-One, and really cut his
teeth there so to speak, and fueled his passion for this automobile,
like the rest of us. And, as time goes on, and people sometimes may
not see eye to eye, he struck out on his own, to open his own DeLorean
service center, to run it as he saw fit. I really actually had this
picture in my head, based on an old article in "De Lorean Gold
Portfolio" that I had read, about a race that he wanted to organize,
yet his employer at the time was not enthusiastic about.

My point to everything is this. Based upon the past experiences that
allot of DeLorean owners have had with a particular vendor, people are
understandably uneasy about posting their VIN #'s, and personal
information. After all, the vendor in particular that I speak of, was
recording people's VIN numbers from when they posted to this list. And
then based upon their own bias, they would refuse to sell any parts to
this particular person, when they discovered whom they were, when they
asked for their VIN over the phone.

What I am asking is this. Steve Wynn, James Espy; I understand if you
want to put this whole "Sonny V" thing behind you. And to a certain
degree, I can understand why you may not wish to comment about it
(legal issues? who knows, I for one don't care). However, there is one
thing that either one, or even both of you need to do. And that is
publicly pledge to everyone here on the DML and elsewhere, that you
promise to never refuse to sell merchandise to someone based upon
personal and or professional bias. And especially, that you promise to
only use VIN numbers for tracking the characteristics, and service
history of individual cars, and NOT to keep track of owner profiles.
If you want to keep my mailing address on hand for marketing purposes,
that's alright. But do not tie it to my VIN #.

Even though this message is directed towards DMCH, I really, seriously
believe that every single service center, parts vendor, and supplier
of any DeLorean memorabilia, or related items needs to seriously make
this pledge to us all. Both current, and future customers.

For too damn long I have been hearing about people, and the fears they
have, of possible retaliation from vendors, due to differences of
opinion. People scared that if they say the wrong thing, a vendor will
refuse to sell them parts. We have now I believe the opprotunity to
put these fears to rest once and for all. And all it takes is a simple
pledge from those who sell us merchandise.

For DMCH, this is especially important, given Steve Wynn, and the
history with he has with his "former employer". This person whom
people have stated that they have experienced customer alienation with
first hand, and thus began this fear. Steve, your history with him as
both an individual, a DeLorean service center, and now a business man
is tied with him even closer than before. This is you opprotunity to
sever that tie, and show us that you are in no way alike. The image of
your self, your employees, your company, and our marquee depends upon it.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 18:23:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge



By changing the charactoristics of the pick-up coil (the resistance
and capacitance) you are dampening the signal which reduces the
fluctuations which is making the ECU respond slower. My guess is
something else is CAUSING the fluctuations that the pick-up is
measuring and sending to the ECU. I would carefully check every
electrical connection and the routing of the wires to try to eliminate
the fluctuations. Some of the wires are routed a certain way to
eliminate (reduce anyway) inductive pickup which would cause
interference. The ECU does not have a high failure rate. The common
sources of problems in the engine electrical control systems are the
pick-up coil and the ignition coil. Of course dirty wiring connections
or a worn-out (or contaminated) O2 sensor is also common. BTW how old
is the O2 sensor? I know the origional was contaminated when the
turbos were removed, they leaked oil badly which would have killed the
sensor. I worked on one car which I was going to bet had a bad ECU. We
swapped it and several other parts and had NO EFFECT!!! The problem
turned out to be VACUUM LEAKS. You really have to start with the
basics. If the engine has a mechanical problem like vacuum leaks, no
amount of fiddling with the control systems is going to "fix" it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Well I put a scope on the input to the ignition ECU and found that
when I  
> put the 2.2uF cap across the pickup coil it reduces the amplitude a
bit and  
> makes it look smoother.  Again this smoothes out the idle and no 
flickering.
>  
> Now for the next part of the puzzle.  Today I put a 390 ohm resistor
 across 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 18:30:41 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Opinion for first time buyers



The reason I am about to buy one is that I found one very close to my 
house which is rare. I live in Arkansas and the main sports car is 
the mustang. I have thought about waiting until I get out of college 
but that will be about six years or so because I am going for a phd 
in mechanical engineering. Plus I enjoy working on cars so it will 
get me away from the tv and off the main street in my town drag 
racing. There's no better feeling then when you crank up an old car 
that didn't run before but now it does. 
 Yes I am about to gradurate from high school, 1 semester left.

 -Josh


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Josh,
> 
> The very first thing (in my opinion), even before buying the car, 
is buy the
> shop manual set.  If you have to second guess spending a hundred 
bucks on
> manuals, you shouldn't be buying a classic exotic.  Spend some time 
reading
> those, the DML archives and everything on the DMC News site --
especially
> this piece by Dave Stragand:
> 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/restoration.htm
> 
> As for my recommendation, I'd say don't buy a DeLorean.  I don't 
mean not
> ever.  -Just not now.  I recall from a previous post that you were 
looking
> to spend $6000.  That's about the same price that most are paying 
for parts
> cars.  If I can paraphrase Daniel from Orlando, he put it best when 
he said
> that DeLoreans are cheap to buy, but expensive to own.  If you want 
to
> restore a $6K car, I would budget at least $200 per week for the 
entire next
> year for parts and tools.  If not, you're going to spend a lot of 
time
> looking at a lifeless pile of parts that no one thinks is cool, 
your parents
> don't understand, and you can't drive at all --much less up to 88 
mph.
> Also, have you made sure that you can be insured on it?  What the 
insurance
> going to cost you?
> 
> Why are you so "desperate" for a car now?  Judging by your email 
address, I
> assume you're just getting ready to graduate from high school.  Why 
not
> finish college first??  Then you can get a job where they dump a 
bunch of
> money into your bank account and you can buy the DeLorean you 
really want.
> After all the hard work, you'll thank yourself.  I guess I'm saying,
> sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way.  Don't get 
anxious; these
> things are going to be around for a long time.
> 
> I hope this didn't discourage you, but since you asked....   :-)
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Jake Kamphoefner
> Driving 1063 in STL
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 1:05 AM
> Subject: [DML] Opinion for first time buyers
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > I am about to buy my first DeLorean. What should I do first? Buy 
the
> > car or the shop amnuals? Or should I even buy a DeLorean? I have
> > wanted one for as long as I can emember and have enough money to 
buy
> > a low..guality car. I know it will be alot of work and money and 
have
> > thought about it for some time know but there are some people out
> > there determined to keep from DeLorean ownership.
> >
> > -Josh
> >








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 18:34:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal



This is fine. There is no need to undo the ball joints unless they are
worn or the seals are damaged. Undoing the ball joints carries a large
risk of damage to them and you WILL have to replace the seal when you
use the pickle fork. Use a good quality internal spring compressor.
You are dealing with some large forces and an accident can happen very
quickly if you cheap out and the spring compressor fails. When
installing the spring compressor you must take into account the
compression of the spring already so make sure you have enough room on
it to release ALL the spring pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> To replace the front springs in the car there is no reason to remove the
> ball joints!
> 
> Here's the proper procedure:
> 1)Raise the car and place jack stands under the front frame.(not the
A arms)
> 2)Remove the wheels









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