From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2398
Date: Sunday, January 02, 2005 4:03 PM


There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Opinion for first time buyers
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Delorean Mid-Atlantic 2004 Holiday Event - Recap
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

3. RE: front coil spring removal
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. Salt on the roads
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. Trigger/Stator air gap
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

8. RE: front coil spring removal
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

10. RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: front coil spring removal
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

12. Re: Trigger/Stator air gap
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 19:40:25 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Opinion for first time buyers



Jake didn't say it here, but he pretty much followed his own advice. 
For about the last 3-4 years I saw Jake at every possible national 
DeLorean event. While in college he followed the list, hung out with 
local and not-so-local owners (including fixing cars!), and was 
always the guy in the white Pontiac with license "NOT A DMC". After 
graduation and what seemed like (to me) about a month of employment 
and a bunch of shopping, he went out and bought the perfect (for him) 
DeLorean at the right price. A real advantage he has is that, with 3-
4 years background, he knew exactly what he wanted, can fix most 
things that go wrong, and more important knew what not to buy.  And 
what the risks were in buying a car as early in production as #1063!

Dave S - biographer...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Josh,
> 
---> 
> As for my recommendation, I'd say don't buy a DeLorean.  I don't 
mean not
> ever.  -Just not now.  ---

-----
  Why not
> finish college first??  Then you can get a job where they dump a 
bunch of
> money into your bank account and you can buy the DeLorean you 
really want.
> After all the hard work, you'll thank yourself.  I guess I'm saying,
> sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way.  Don't get 
anxious; these
> things are going to be around for a long time.
> 
> I hope this didn't discourage you, but since you asked....   :-)
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Jake Kamphoefner
> Driving 1063 in STL








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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2005 15:00:43 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic 2004 Holiday Event - Recap


Tis the season to be busy!  ;)

Sorry it took so long, but we finally have the writeup and video segment 
from the Mid-Atlantic club 2004 Holiday event on our web site.

Go here to see all the details:  
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm

Hope everyone is having a good new year!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680







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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 22:03:54 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: front coil spring removal


David,

Your comment: 

"You are dealing with some large forces and an accident can happen very
quickly if you cheap out and the spring compressor fails", 

is right on the money!

When I was operating DeLorean Services we would send our clients DeLorean's
to a local suspension ship for all spring removals and replacements. We
found that it was a cost effective way to complete spring service procedures
with no worry's about injuries. 

DMC Joe 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 1:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] front coil spring removal




This is fine. There is no need to undo the ball joints unless they are worn
or the seals are damaged. Undoing the ball joints carries a large risk of
damage to them and you WILL have to replace the seal when you use the pickle
fork. Use a good quality internal spring compressor.
You are dealing with some large forces and an accident can happen very
quickly if you cheap out and the spring compressor fails. When installing
the spring compressor you must take into account the compression of the
spring already so make sure you have enough room on it to release ALL the
spring pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2005 23:40:54 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


 
 
Is there a detailed procedure for replacing the pickup coil other than the  
shop manual which I have?


 
Thank  you,

Dē & 6530





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 05:24:49 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Salt on the roads



Hi list, happy new year!

Got one good layer of salt on the roads here in central Indiana, then 
the weather warmed up and it's been raining lightly on and off for 
two days.  Yahoo!

Anybody got a read on what it takes for the salt residue on the 
street to wash away?  (Only 364 driving days till New Year's.)

--Ray
10693 and counting.








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 00:48:13 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update


Yes its is early to talk about Pheasant Run but I am getting questions  about 
what is going on.
 
There have been some significant issues that have occurred but they are not  
bad issues and they actually have given us the new convention center (Its not  
done yet and is going to be in service less than a year when we get it) 
across  the street.  Its the Pheasant Run expansion.
 
So we will have it for Friday and Sat. (Originally we just had the old  
convention center on Sat)
 
We also get the Grand Ballroom for Thursday Night so that will be really  
cool. Its huge not cramped like we usually are on Thursday.
 
If you have ideas for what you want in the show now is the time to speak or  
forever hold your peace LOL.
 
For those of you that have been to the shows before it looks like the  
schedule we originally had planned is not going to stand.  We have changed  the show 
and are including a lot more interactive activities with the  cars.  
 
One thing that I found interesting is the number of people that would like  
to show the cars outside on grass if the weather is nice.(cars will be inside  
the convention center or under cover if it rains) 
 
We will do that. 
 
Vendors will be under cover either in the convention center or outside  
weather permitting.
 
The speakers will start earlier
 
Judging is still an issue as we would like to do it early but want to do it  
by group so we may have the cars staged Friday night and start judging early 
by  group so its done by noon.
 
Judging as you go into the show worked great from a time standpoint but I  
think that you get better judging by class where all cars are together and are  
judged at one time.  While not possible at PF it is Possible at Pheasant  run 
so we will try it.
 
At some point the cars will be in order of VIN number. If you plan on  coming 
and can e-mail me your vin numbers it will get us a head start.  We  will ask 
for vin numbers in the registration as well.
 
Would anyone be interested in having their VIN number on a licence  plate for 
say $5 to $6 with the Chicago DCS logo on it so all cars are  identified by 
the vin plate.
 
We will be on pavement Friday night and on Grass as has been requested by  
many of you
we have a few acres to position the cars.
 
We plan possibly to do an obstacle course. (on paved parking area weather  
permitting)
Anyway Happy New Year 
 
if you ordered the magazine or have been to one of the shows you will be  
updated at the beginning of Feb on the details since we should have it  planned.
 
thanks 
 
Ken





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 05:53:40 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Trigger/Stator air gap



I had my ignition distributor out of the car to replace the pickup-
coil wire, and noticed that when I rotated it by hand, the "crown" 
rubs against the 3 protruding sections of the pickup (impulse) coil.  

What is the proper method to fix this?  Do I adjust the distance 
between the two parts to be 0.25mm as stated as the "trigger/stator 
air gap" in the service manual?  Or is that specification referring 
to something else?  

The parts I'm referring to are:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ignitionsystem.jpg

Part #8 I am calling the "crown"

Part #17 I'm calling the pickup coil.  You can see the 3 little 
pieces of metal that stick upward on the top of it.  This is what is 
rubbing the "crown" when it rotates.  

I didn't know if this issue was critical or not.  The problem I was 
having was that my tach was jumping all over the place, and wiggling 
the pickup coil wire even caused the engine to shut down at times.  I 
am replacing the pickup coil wire, but I thought I best ask the list 
about this as well.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 07:42:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: front coil spring removal


An article in Hot Rod magazine some time back covered
the subject of spring removal.  As a safety
precaution, they recommended having a short (approx
24") piece of chain with one of those links that
unscrews.  By looping it through the spring and
through the frame, it prevents the spring from
becoming a projectile should something slip or the
compressor fail.  Obviously anytime you're dealing
with forces like these, injuries could still happen,
but I found the chain method a relatively easy way to
add an additional layer of safety.  I've used it ever
since reading the article.

=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 08:11:00 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles - Questions



When looking into this before, someone sent me a link to this photo-album:

http://fuh-q.org/~aos/photos/?album=dmc-ElGlo

The type of UV lighting and the paint used there are variables I don't
know, so please let us know how your experiment turned out.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> It is a shame the original cluster is not completely UV responsive. 
> But of all things the needles should be the easiest to paint a white
> UV ink onto.  That gives me an idea.  A friend of mine recently
> pruchased a "spypen".  It is a sharpie-type permanent marker which is
> only visible in UV light.  I'll take one of my spare gauges and
> needles to the New Years party tonight we'll be at and see how well
> that particular item works. I'll post again either this evening or
> tomorrow with the results. I'm excited now.
> 
> Jim Reeve
> DMC6960








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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 11:22:04 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


Dave, What makes you think the pick up coil is bad that it has to be
replaced. It will normally read about 600 ohms cold +/- 5% then up to 700
ohms hot. It's just a coil of wire on a plastic bobbin. If it's bad the car
won't crank.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html




-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 10:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge






> Is there a detailed procedure for replacing the pickup coil other than the
> shop manual which I have?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank  you,
> 
> Dē & 6530





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 17:29:05 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: front coil spring removal


I prefer to use three of the 1" nylon tie-down straps for compressing
springs.  Loop the strap through the topmost and bottom-most coil 
that you can reach 3 times and tighten up the buckle.  Then do the
other 2 straps, spacing them equally around the spring.  Use 
the weight of the car to compress the spring.  Make sure the coils 
don't pinch the straps.  If that happens, you will have to start over with 
a different coil.  Tighten up the straps as the spring compresses.  Then 
lift the car again.  The straps will keep the spring compressed so you 
can remove it easily.  The straps won't slip like a typical spring compressor 
and any two of the straps are sufficient to hold automotive springs so it is safer.
--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> An article in Hot Rod magazine some time back covered 
> the subject of spring removal. As a safety 
> precaution, they recommended having a short (approx 
> 24") piece of chain with one of those links that 
> unscrews. By looping it through the spring and 
> through the frame, it prevents the spring from 
> becoming a projectile should something slip or the 
> compressor fail. Obviously anytime you're dealing 
> with forces like these, injuries could still happen, 
> but I found the chain method a relatively easy way to 
> add an additional layer of safety. I've used it ever 
> since reading the article. 
> 
> ===== 
> Steve 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 18:16:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Trigger/Stator air gap



The Delorean Workshop Manual does not have a good explanation for the
procedures involving the distributer. Maybe a Volvo or Renault Manual
is better? Anyway the pick-up coil is actually # 12. It is inductively
coupled to part # 17 and part # 8 interupts the coupling. The
dimension you adjust is the gap between the spikes on #8 and # 17.
Part # 8 is very easily bent so adjust it carefully. I would start by
making sure the spikes on #17 are all exactly equidistant from one of
the spikes on #8. Once I had all of #17 adjusted the same then I would
make each spike on #8 the right gap. You have to use a brass
(non-magnetic) feeler gauge or you will feel the magnetism, not the
gap. The spikes should not touch. Maybe something is loose inside the
distributer or the bushings are worn. If there is a lot of play in the
bushings do not try to set the gaps, you won't be able to. The best
advice is to completly disassemble the distributer and check
everything for wear. The play in the bushings should be minimal, like
a couple of thou max. The advance plate # 17 should be tight, ie, the
screws holding it to the housing should be holding it securely and it
should rotate smoothly for the vacuum advance. The picture on M:01:01
does not show the shaft and the mechanical advance. In any case you
should disassemble it too and clean and lubricate it. You may only
have to clean and spread the connections inside the plug on the wire
(#2) so as to get a better contact with the pick-up coil. Jiggling the
wire should not affect the motor if it is connected, clean, and tight.
That is also why there is a  plate and screw (#18), to hold it tight.
BTW you didn't have to remove the distributer to replace the wire
(#18), it can be done "in car", adjusting the gap is possible in car
but is MUCH easier "off car". You *should* use a timing light to reset
the timing when you reinstal the distributer. Making marks and trying
to put it back the way you found it assumes it was correctly timed
when you removed it (a BIG assumption!)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had my ignition distributor out of the car to replace the pickup-
> coil wire, and noticed that when I rotated it by hand, the "crown" 
> rubs against the 3 protruding sections of the pickup (impulse) coil.  
> 
> What is the proper method to fix this?  Do I adjust the distance 
> between the two parts to be 0.25mm as stated as the "trigger/stator 
> air gap" in the service manual?  Or is that specification referring 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 18:28:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal



I have used chains, steel strapping, C clamps, hose clamps, you name
it. I have even popped springs out using a floor jack. In all cases it
can be very dangerous, by looking at a spring you CANNOT tell how much
power is still in it. The problem for me with chains is that it makes
everything so heavy and they get in the way, and can get caught up as
you try to remove the spring. They can slip, and can you really trust
them? Weakest link and all that. From my experience the safest way is
with a QUALITY spring compressor. Treat it like a stick of dynamite
until you have safely released ALL of the compression. Don't drop it,
bump it, or leave it in the spring compressor. Wearing safety
protection won't help much if anything should happen. Review what you
are going to do and have ALL the tools you will need ready and nearby.
Get anyone who isn't needed out of there until you are done. If you
don't feel completly comfortable doing this kind of work then DON'T DO
IT! It isn't worth hurting yourself over a hobby to save a couple of
bucks. This and the torsion bar adjustment I consider among the most
dangerous mechanical procedures on the car. Even though the chain may
prevent the spring from shooting out it won't help if the spring
compressor lets go and parts of it go flying.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> An article in Hot Rod magazine some time back covered
> the subject of spring removal.  As a safety
> precaution, they recommended having a short (approx
> 24") piece of chain with one of those links that
> unscrews.  By looping it through the spring and
> through the frame, it prevents the spring from
> becoming a projectile should something slip or the
> compressor fail.  Obviously anytime you're dealing
> with forces like these, injuries could still happen,
> but I found the chain method a relatively easy way to
> add an additional layer of safety.  I've used it ever
> since reading the article.
> 
> =====
> Steve
> 
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 18:47:51 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get



I owned a DeLorean in 1994-1996.  At that time I didnt have to much trouble 
getting parts.  I have been looking to purchase another but notice that 
certain parts seem very difficult to find.  Besides the obvious body panels, 
there apears to be a shortage of torsion bars, engine parts and decor 
pieces.  If I am incorrect please tell me.  My question is besides body 
panels which parts are very difficult to find?  I browsed delorean.com and 
noticed that a many parts were not currently available.  My second question 
is, is there anybody out there trying to reproduce these parts.  With 
machines now that can cut a custom rim out of a solid chunk of aluminum you 
would think that somebody could body panels and such the same way.  Any 
information would be helpful.
Thanks,
Alex







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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 19:03:25 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP>  
> Would anyone be interested in having their VIN number on a licence 
plate for 
> say $5 to $6 with the Chicago DCS logo on it so all cars are 
identified by 
> the vin plate.
<SNIP>

Actually, I think that would be a far better idea, than a dash plaque
to remember the show by. Plus of course, it could help to organize the
cars better.

I take it of course, that we would want to mount these on the front of
our cars, so that people can still see our legal plates on the back,
and where our cars currently reside.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 20:02:45 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)



The UV marker did not turn out well at all.  Brightness was lacking,
and consistency in the marking was horrible. (on both the needles and
the gauge face)

That album you posted is interesting.  If whoever did that is reading
this would you care to speak up and perhaps give some insight on what
you did?

Since I'm motivated now I may go out and try other options marking
both the needles and the gauges themselves with UV reactive
substances.  At least this will give me something to do while my
DeLorean is in storage for the winter.

Jim Reeve
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> When looking into this before, someone sent me a link to this
photo-album:
> 
> http://fuh-q.org/~aos/photos/?album=dmc-ElGlo
> 
> The type of UV lighting and the paint used there are variables I don't
> know, so please let us know how your experiment turned out.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > It is a shame the original cluster is not completely UV responsive. 
> > But of all things the needles should be the easiest to paint a white
> > UV ink onto.  That gives me an idea.  A friend of mine recently
> > pruchased a "spypen".  It is a sharpie-type permanent marker which is
> > only visible in UV light.  I'll take one of my spare gauges and
> > needles to the New Years party tonight we'll be at and see how well
> > that particular item works. I'll post again either this evening or
> > tomorrow with the results. I'm excited now.
> > 
> > Jim Reeve
> > DMC6960








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