From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2399
Date: Monday, January 03, 2005 5:02 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. AW: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

2. Oil pan removal
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. RE: Trigger/Stator air gap
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

9. Malcom is back.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Oil pan removal
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

11. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

13. Have you heard of Velcro?
From: <bill.schafer_at_dml_us.army.mil>

14. Re: Re: front coil spring removal
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

15. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

16. Re: Malcom is back.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

17. Re: Have you heard of Velcro?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

18. Re: Trigger/Stator air gap
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

19. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

21. Jordan's Encyclopedia of DeLorean Maintenance - gone?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

22. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Update on auto tranny
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: DeLorean Car Show (VIN line-up)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 21:40:08 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


What makes you so sure about that ?

My Opel Kadett had a similar problem and it was well known, 
that the pickup coils fail on that modell.

Had to change it 3 times within 6 years.

There are more possibilities than just a broken wire.

Elvis


Dave, What makes you think the pick up coil is bad that it has to be
replaced. It will normally read about 600 ohms cold +/- 5% then up to 700
ohms hot. It's just a coil of wire on a plastic bobbin. If it's bad the car
won't crank.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 20:53:01 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Oil pan removal



Hey all.. how the hell do u remove the oil pan?? I have undone the motor 
mounts and jacked the motor up some but there is still not enough room to 
remove the rear bolts on the oil pan with anything... any help on this is 
appreciated.. Dave.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 15:43:03 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update


Yes that would work if we all had front license plate brackets, many of 
us dont and i am sure many of us do not plan to attach one just for the 
show. Besides the rear plate is not that hard to get off.

Mark V


On Sunday, January 2, 2005, at 01:03  PM, therealdmcvegas wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> <SNIP>
>> Would anyone be interested in having their VIN number on a licence
> plate for
>> say $5 to $6 with the Chicago DCS logo on it so all cars are
> identified by
>> the vin plate.
> <SNIP>
>
> Actually, I think that would be a far better idea, than a dash plaque
> to remember the show by. Plus of course, it could help to organize the
> cars better.
>
> I take it of course, that we would want to mount these on the front of
> our cars, so that people can still see our legal plates on the back,
> and where our cars currently reside.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 18:35:18 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)


Just remember do not paint the speedometer needle because it will give 
an inaccurate reading due to the added weight. Our speedometers are 
magnetic driven not gear driven and any added weight to the needle will 
throw off the speedometer.

Mark V


On Sunday, January 2, 2005, at 02:02  PM, Jim Reeve wrote:

>
>
>
> The UV marker did not turn out well at all.  Brightness was lacking,
> and consistency in the marking was horrible. (on both the needles and
> the gauge face)
>
> That album you posted is interesting.  If whoever did that is reading
> this would you care to speak up and perhaps give some insight on what
> you did?
>
> Since I'm motivated now I may go out and try other options marking
> both the needles and the gauges themselves with UV reactive
> substances.  At least this will give me something to do while my
> DeLorean is in storage for the winter.
>
> Jim Reeve
> DMC6960
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>>
>>
>> When looking into this before, someone sent me a link to this
> photo-album:
>>
>> http://fuh-q.org/~aos/photos/?album=dmc-ElGlo
>>
>> The type of UV lighting and the paint used there are variables I don't
>> know, so please let us know how your experiment turned out.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --Greg
>> #2894
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>>> It is a shame the original cluster is not completely UV responsive.
>>> But of all things the needles should be the easiest to paint a white
>>> UV ink onto.  That gives me an idea.  A friend of mine recently
>>> pruchased a "spypen".  It is a sharpie-type permanent marker which is
>>> only visible in UV light.  I'll take one of my spare gauges and
>>> needles to the New Years party tonight we'll be at and see how well
>>> that particular item works. I'll post again either this evening or
>>> tomorrow with the results. I'm excited now.
>>>
>>> Jim Reeve
>>> DMC6960





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 20:46:49 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


 
 
John,
 
I'm not exactly sure what is wrong but I don't think it's the idle ECU any  
more.
 
 With a 2700 ohm in series with the center conductor of the shielded  wire 
going to the pickup coil the cars runs great.  No more tach  flickering, no more 
fast idle, no more idle hunting.  The question is  why?  I have two ignition 
ECUs.  The original one and one I bought  from Josh H.  There is no difference 
between them.  Could they both  have the same fault? Should I try a third? 
The resistor seems like a nice fix  for less than 10 cents but it bugs me as to 
what is exactly wrong.
 
The pickup coil reads 579 ohms cold and there is infinite resistance from  it 
to ground, ie. no shorts to ground.  When I look at the pickup coil  signal 
on a scope it looks distorted, ie not a very smooth sine wave.  When  I put the 
resistor in series the wave gets a bit smaller in amplitude as you  would 
expect but it also cleans up a bit.   Is it this distortion that  is throwing off 
the ignition ECU to produce spurious signals that are messing  with the tach 
and the idle ECU?
 
I have uploaded two relatively small videos of the scope pictures.   You can 
see the difference in the signal when the resistor is in place. (You can  also 
hear the difference in how the car sounds.)
 
Can anyone put a scope on this signal and see how it compares to  mine?
(While there can you measure the amplitude as well. )
 
 At idle my signal was 10 volts peak to peak and it went to 40 volts  peak to 
peak at 5000 rpm.  Page 22 of the Technical Information Manual says  it 
should be 0.3V at idle and up to 100Volts "depending on engine speed." 
Something is amiss!
 
Dē & 6530

Dave,  What makes you think the pick up coil is bad that it has to be
replaced. It  will normally read about 600 ohms cold +/- 5% then up to 700
ohms hot. It's  just a coil of wire on a plastic bobbin. If it's bad the car
won't  crank.
John Hervey







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 21:38:51 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update


 
In a message dated 1/2/2005 6:28:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:

Yes that  would work if we all had front license plate brackets, many of 
us dont and  i am sure many of us do not plan to attach one just for the 
show. Besides  the rear plate is not that hard to get off.



I wasn't even thinking that the plates would necessarily be attached it  
could be displayed with the car either on the seat with the doors open
on the dash in the window or just on the ground in front of the car 
if there is enough interest we can do it
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 20:56:10 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Trigger/Stator air gap


Matt,
I just put a distributor back together the other day and man was it full of
grit eating away at the sleeve bearings. But, After everything was cleaned
and reassembled the best I could get was 18 thousands between the points on
the center part and the reluctor plate. There are 3 screws that can be
loosened and the with the feeler gauge set the space and then snug them
down. I use an 3mm long handle allen tool on the one I fixed.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Spittle [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 11:54 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Trigger/Stator air gap





I had my ignition distributor out of the car to replace the pickup-
coil wire, and noticed that when I rotated it by hand, the "crown"
rubs against the 3 protruding sections of the pickup (impulse) coil.

What is the proper method to fix this?  Do I adjust the distance
between the two parts to be 0.25mm as stated as the "trigger/stator
air gap" in the service manual?  Or is that specification referring
to something else?

The parts I'm referring to are:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ignitionsystem.jpg

Part #8 I am calling the "crown"

Part #17 I'm calling the pickup coil.  You can see the 3 little
pieces of metal that stick upward on the top of it.  This is what is
rubbing the "crown" when it rotates.

I didn't know if this issue was critical or not.  The problem I was
having was that my tach was jumping all over the place, and wiggling
the pickup coil wire even caused the engine to shut down at times.  I
am replacing the pickup coil wire, but I thought I best ask the list
about this as well.

thanks,

Matt
#1604








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 21:56:41 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


 
In a message dated 1/2/2005 3:30:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

<<<My question is besides body 
panels which parts are very  difficult to find?>>>


what body panels are you looking for 
We still have the left front fenders, one of each door, right rear quarter  
and a few other parts that we are holding on to
 
Do you have any specific parts 
The vendors have most of the other parts and I have yet not to be able to  
find a part or replacement for anything I need
 
I think parts are easier to find now than they were a few years back
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 19:46:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Malcom is back.


Not directly related to DeLoreans, But Fred Dellis of
Legend Industries fame informed me that he worked on
this deal.

http://www.detnews.com/2005/autosinsider/0501/02/A01-47455.htm

http://www.detnews.com/2005/autosinsider/0501/02/B04-47241.htm

Maybe there is still home for JZD to make a comeback??




		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free! 
http://my.yahoo.com 
 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 04:25:13 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Oil pan removal



Dave - You're on the right track ... you just have to jack up the 
motor some MORE.  The bolts on the ends are the worst.  Have a 
little faith and patience.  A good set of short wobble sockets 
doesn't hurt either.  Just be careful to avoid crushing anything as 
you jack the motor up, such as the slave cylinder pipe.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
 
> Hey all.. how the hell do u remove the oil pan?? I have undone the 
motor mounts and jacked the motor up some but there is still not 
enough room to remove the rear bolts on the oil pan with anything... 
any help on this is appreciated.. Dave.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 04:34:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal



This method is only good if you are removing and replacing the same
springs. If you are changing the springs, say to lower the car, you
will have to get a spring compressor to get the new springs to go in.
And you will still have the old springs under considerable pressure
with the straps that you cannot release without a spring compressor.
You must also make very sure you have compressed the springs more than
enough. If you can't get the spring back in you have no way of
tightening it anymore. With all the drawbacks to this method it is not
preferable to a spring compressor. You can rent the compressors from
many auto parts stores and a really good one to buy is $75 max. I have
one I bought for $48 and it is fine. Some stores rent them for free
asking only for a deposit so you will return it. BTW if you wanted to
paint the spring while it is out the straps are in the way. You will
need an internal compressor for the fronts and an external for the
rears. The rear compressor is around $75 also. I got an external at
Sears for $38 on sale. Snap-On wanted $150 for essentialy the same thing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> I prefer to use three of the 1" nylon tie-down straps for compressing
> springs.  Loop the strap through the topmost and bottom-most coil 
> that you can reach 3 times and tighten up the buckle.  Then do the
> other 2 straps, spacing them equally around the spring.  Use 
> the weight of the car to compress the spring.  Make sure the coils 
> don't pinch the straps.  If that happens, you will have to start
over en removed]








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:59:16 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update



I have no bracket either, but they do make ones that don't require any modifications to the 
car. I'd buy one just for the show. Both the plate, and the holder that is.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> Yes that would work if we all had front license plate brackets, many of 
> us dont and i am sure many of us do not plan to attach one just for the 
> show. Besides the rear plate is not that hard to get off.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> On Sunday, January 2, 2005, at 01:03  PM, therealdmcvegas wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > <SNIP>
> >> Would anyone be interested in having their VIN number on a licence
> > plate for
> >> say $5 to $6 with the Chicago DCS logo on it so all cars are
> > identified by
> >> the vin plate.
> > <SNIP>
> >
> > Actually, I think that would be a far better idea, than a dash plaque
> > to remember the show by. Plus of course, it could help to organize the
> > cars better.
> >
> > I take it of course, that we would want to mount these on the front of
> > our cars, so that people can still see our legal plates on the back,
> > and where our cars currently reside.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 00:12:59 -0600
From: <bill.schafer_at_dml_us.army.mil>
Subject: Have you heard of Velcro?


Mark V,

   They make a product called Velcro which works very well on the back of metal and the front bumper. It can used as a temporary fix or for the long haul. My plate has been held in place on the front bumper for three years with no problems.

Bill
11546

"Plan for the worst, hope for the best, 
 anything better than worst is to your advantage".





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 13:28:18 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: front coil spring removal


Not exactly.  The problem with spring compressors and cars like the
DeLorean is space.  It is difficult to get the compressors evenly spaced
so the spring compresses evenly.  The straps do a much better job of
working in a confined space - and they don't slip down the coil or twist.

You do not need a spring compressor to release the spring once it is 
out of the car.  The straps can be removed by loosening each strap a 
little bit in turn.  

It is true that you still need a compressor to put a new spring into the
car.  Because of the space issue, I compress the spring and then 
put on the straps before putting the spring into the car.  This way 
you can put the compressor on the top and bottom coil, which gives
you much more compression than having to leave room between coils
for the compressor jaws.  And the straps are cheap - you can get 
enough for all 4 springs for about $25 at most any hardware store
and you have a dozen tie-down straps when you are done.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> This method is only good if you are removing and replacing the same 
> springs. If you are changing the springs, say to lower the car, you 
> will have to get a spring compressor to get the new springs to go in. 
> And you will still have the old springs under considerable pressure 
> with the straps that you cannot release without a spring compressor. 
> You must also make very sure you have compressed the springs more than 
> enough. If you can't get the spring back in you have no way of 
> tightening it anymore. With all the drawbacks to this method it is not 
> preferable to a spring compressor. You can rent the compressors from 
> many auto parts stores and a really good one to buy is $75 max. I have 
> one I bought for $48 and it is fine. Some stores rent them for free 
> asking only for a deposit so you will return it. BTW if you wanted to 
> paint the spring while it is out the straps are in the way. You will 
> need an internal compressor for the fronts and an external for the 
> rears. The rear compressor is around $75 also. I got an external at 
> Sears for $38 on sale. Snap-On wanted $150 for essentialy the same thing. 
> David Teitelbaum 
> vin 10757 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 05:29:16 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update


Ken,
    Send me one and I will hang it around my neck.
        Murray

Vin: 05962
Lic:  DMC-XII





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 16:45:19 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Malcom is back.



Good luck on actually seeing these things on the American highways. Chery motors is 
already in hot water with General Motors. In China, they basicly ripped-off a Daewoo car 
design, that GM was going to import to the US under the Chevy badge.

Take a look at the names "Chery" & "Chevy". Their only on letter off, and a "r" character can 
easily be moddified in some fancy script-type writing, to look like a "v".

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?n=156,173&sid=173&article=7237

Chery's partner, SAIC has already pulled out of their association with Chery. And while GM, 
and others don't stand a chance in China's legal system, America will be a different story.

I'll be you anything that if Bricklin's company actualy gets any of these cars to shore, 
customs will impound them right there on the docks, and let them rot, while GM's lawyers 
tie this thing up in our courts until they suck all capital out of this project. And I wouldn't 
blame them one bit.

Yeah, if JZD makes a comeback, it's gonna be on his terms...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Not directly related to DeLoreans, But Fred Dellis of
> Legend Industries fame informed me that he worked on
> this deal.
> 
> http://www.detnews.com/2005/autosinsider/0501/02/A01-47455.htm
> 
> http://www.detnews.com/2005/autosinsider/0501/02/B04-47241.htm
> 
> Maybe there is still home for JZD to make a comeback??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free! 
> http://my.yahoo.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 11:29:39 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Have you heard of Velcro?


They also make a product called screws that you drive directly into 
your front bumper that hold the front plate on a Delorean very well too 
but i am not going to do that either.

I am not dumb i know what Velcro is you dont have to explain how it 
works to me.

If it comes down to it i will attach my PJ Grady front license plate 
bracket i bought a while back that i bought it just incase the local 
cops made me attach a plate to the front of my car.


Mark V


On Monday, January 3, 2005, at 12:12  AM, bill.schafer_at_dml_us.army.mil 
wrote:

>
>
> Mark V,
>
>    They make a product called Velcro which works very well on the back 
> of metal and the front bumper. It can used as a temporary fix or for 
> the long haul. My plate has been held in place on the front bumper for 
> three years with no problems.
>
> Bill
> 11546
>
> "Plan for the worst, hope for the best,
>  anything better than worst is to your advantage".
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 19:12:27 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Trigger/Stator air gap



Looks like I was missing those 3 screws COMPLETELY, and the reluctor 
wasn't even aligned with the holes!  Rotating the reluctor to align 
with the holes actually fixed the air-gap problem, and now my 3 
points are all within .025mm.  I know that the previous owner had 
replaced the impulse coil, but he must have forgotten these.  It's 
kind of funny to think that the car would actually idle without the 
reluctor/impulse coil being firmly attached.  

thanks again,

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> There are 3 screws that can be
> loosened and the with the feeler gauge set the space and then snug 
them
> down. I use an 3mm long handle allen tool on the one I fixed.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 20:18:04 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


I was looking for left and right torsion bars.  And I was curious how 
difficult it would be to reproduce the bars if they ran out?  I know they 
were frozen and all that.  What is the price on your left front fender?  
Last one I saw sold for $2200.  1/8th the price of a new car!  There have to 
be some parts that are difficult to find.
I dont consider stripping parts off of parts cars a reliable and long term 
source for parts.  I'm talking about off the shelf, re-manufactured or parts 
from other makes and models that fit the delorean.  What parts from these 
sources are difficult to find?

>From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
>Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 21:56:41 EST
>
>
>
>
>In a message dated 1/2/2005 3:30:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:
>
><<<My question is besides body
>panels which parts are very  difficult to find?>>>
>
>
>what body panels are you looking for
>We still have the left front fenders, one of each door, right rear quarter
>and a few other parts that we are holding on to
>
>Do you have any specific parts
>The vendors have most of the other parts and I have yet not to be able to
>find a part or replacement for anything I need
>
>I think parts are easier to find now than they were a few years back
>
>Ken
>
>
[moderator snip]





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 20:36:19 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)


In my particular case, I'm also changing to a 140MPH speedometer and
will require recalibration...  Will that process take care of any
changes due to needle weight?  Also, do you know if other needles in
the instrument cluster will need recalibration due to new or altered
needles?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> Just remember do not paint the speedometer needle because it will give 
> an inaccurate reading due to the added weight. Our speedometers are 
> magnetic driven not gear driven and any added weight to the needle will 
> throw off the speedometer.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
[moderator snip]





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 20:41:49 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Jordan's Encyclopedia of DeLorean Maintenance - gone?



>From the Technical section of the DMCNews site, there was a link:
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

It had a lot of great tutorials in it, but it appears down at the
moment.  I seem to remember seeing that some / all of the tutorials
were mirrored or hosted elsewhere...

Does anyone know where a mirror is, or the status of the site? 
(hopefully not gone for good!)

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 13:36:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


#102482 - coolant pipe from water pump to heater hose
(underneath intake manifold)

#106994 - fuel insert from main fuel line under car to
line that goes to side of fuel distributor

#102765 - clamp that holds idle control motor to side
of intake manifold

#108388 - headlight switch...although DMCH is putting
up an interesting offer
here..http://www.delorean.com/headlightswitch.asp

#110446,#100683 - either grey or black consoles

#108239,#110523 - either gray or black console covers

#110419 - left door outside mirror

obvious = left torsion bar and front left fender,
dash, binnacle

The first 3 parts listed I have personal experience
with trying to find.  The others listed I've "heard"
are hard to find.

Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
that one?


		
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 13:39:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update


I think that'd be great.  I do second the idea about
putting it in the front as well.  I'd prefer to keep
my "norm" plate where it belongs and put the DCS plate
in front.  If I had to, I'd be willing to put it in
the license plate holder in the back.
 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a...
> wrote:
> <SNIP>  
> > Would anyone be interested in having their VIN
> number on a licence 
> plate for 
> > say $5 to $6 with the Chicago DCS logo on it so
> all cars are 
> identified by 
> > the vin plate.
> <SNIP>
>


		
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Send a seasonal email greeting and help others. Do good. 
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 13:48:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Update on auto tranny


Just thought I'd let everyone know that I took my
DeLorean back to AAMCO Transmissions for its 1 year
checkup.  Everything looked good.  The only thing they
couldn't check was the line pressure.  The gauge they
needed specifically for the DeLorean was broken, but
they said they would order another one.  I made a deal
with them that I could bring the car back for a
checkup with the line pressure measurement included at
no cost..if I called at the end of each month to see
if they got the gauge in.  

Either way, Casey and I are going to build a
transmission line pressure gauge like the one in the
workshop manual so if we want to, we can check the
line pressure on our own.  It shouldn't take too much
to build the gauge, and I'll have it for life. It's
definitely worth owning, like the K-Jetronic Fuel
gauges.....you're just guessing if you don't have
those..

Oh, on a side note.  When I took my DeLorean in today,
there was ANOTHER DeLorean in their shop on one of
their lifts.  I know the owner of that one, in fact,
he's the guy I met that got me interested in buying
one in the first place.  He just brought it in last
Friday.  I thought that was too funny to see 2
DeLoreans at the same time in their shop.  I asked the
guys that repaired mine about what they thought about
seeing two in their shop; they smiled, laughed, and
told me: "We'll probably never see this again."  They
told me when it first pulled up they thought it was
me.  I laughed and told them nah wasn't me.. and that
I had referred them to this owner who was having
shifting problems.  They told me thank you for the
reference; I told them thank you for the great job.

Good times.

Jeremiah


		
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 22:17:16 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show (VIN line-up)



Since we are talking about the line-up of cars by VIN sequence,
how about using a custom piece of white styrofoam on the front
bumpers of each car, with the last 5 digits of the VIN written
on the foam, with an A or M after the number, for trans. type,
just like the way the car left the factory.  You can have two
types, one for a bare fascia and one that can go over a plate.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I wasn't even thinking that the plates would necessarily be 
attached it  
> could be displayed with the car either on the seat with the doors 
open
> on the dash in the window or just on the ground in front of the 
car 
> if there is enough interest we can do it
>  
> Ken
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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