From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2401
Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 1:27 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

3. Re: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show (VIN line-up)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. Let the games begin!!
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

7. RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

12. RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. DeLorean Gathering in Ohio January 15
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

14. Vin number liscence plate
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Volvo F Series CO Values
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Trigger/Stator air gap
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: front coil spring removal
From: "cooperbrowdy" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

19. Need a Photo
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

20. RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. AW: Jordan's Encyclopedia of DeLorean Maintenance - gone?
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

22. DeLorean Speakers
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

23. RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: Need a Photo
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Vin number liscence plate
From: "joecellularjoe" <joecellularjoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 23:35:01 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


Home Depot, in the plywood department. 

Sorry - couldn't resist. It's not that bad of a question - I've seen some rotted away enough that they needed replacement. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
>> 
> Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
> to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
> to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
> or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
> that one?









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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 18:21:14 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


I've got quite a few of those.  They are listed under "section 8-7-5: 
general interior trim" in the parts manual.

-Josh


Enid/Jeremiah wrote:

>Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
>to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
>to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
>or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
>that one?
>
>
>		
>__________________________________ 
>Do you Yahoo!? 
>Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. 
>http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
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>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 17:40:32 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Replacing Instrument Cluster Needles (UV marking)


I wouldnt know if the others are effected by the weight. I seen a show 
about restoring Muscle cars and they were doing a speedo on a Muscle 
car that had a magnetic driven speedo and they said if you were going 
to do anything to it to freshen it up and make it look new again you 
should just take a colored high-lighter marker and it would look new 
again but not to use paint because it would effect the speed showing on 
the speedometer.

Mark V



On Monday, January 3, 2005, at 02:36  PM, gzapf wrote:

>
>
> In my particular case, I'm also changing to a 140MPH speedometer and
> will require recalibration...  Will that process take care of any
> changes due to needle weight?  Also, do you know if other needles in
> the instrument cluster will need recalibration due to new or altered
> needles?
>
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
>>
>> Just remember do not paint the speedometer needle because it will give
>> an inaccurate reading due to the added weight. Our speedometers are
>> magnetic driven not gear driven and any added weight to the needle 
>> will
>> throw off the speedometer.
>>
>> Mark V
>>
>>
> [moderator snip]
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 17:42:14 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show (VIN line-up)


I think that would look the coolest.

Great idea Rich.

Mark V



On Monday, January 3, 2005, at 04:17  PM, d_rex_2002 wrote:

>
>
>
> Since we are talking about the line-up of cars by VIN sequence,
> how about using a custom piece of white styrofoam on the front
> bumpers of each car, with the last 5 digits of the VIN written
> on the foam, with an A or M after the number, for trans. type,
> just like the way the car left the factory.  You can have two
> types, one for a bare fascia and one that can go over a plate.
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
>> I wasn't even thinking that the plates would necessarily be
> attached it
>> could be displayed with the car either on the seat with the doors
> open
>> on the dash in the window or just on the ground in front of the
> car
>> if there is enough interest we can do it
>>
>> Ken
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 00:16:07 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Let the games begin!!



 I just picked up a brand spankin new complete harness and all 1990 (I
think) eagle premier engine, still in the crate for $500 bucks!! Lets
see if I can find away to make gobs of power without blowing it up!!
Actually I might just be shipping it off to Canada to a Renault guy
with the hopes of getting 400-450 HP out of it. Been working on a TT
possibility for awhile now.
Harry Vin #2696








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 23:46:01 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get



Door/ignition locks are nearly impossible to find anywhere.  At 
least not from any of the vendors.

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> #102482 - coolant pipe from water pump to heater hose
> (underneath intake manifold)
> 
> #106994 - fuel insert from main fuel line under car to
> line that goes to side of fuel distributor
> 
> #102765 - clamp that holds idle control motor to side
> of intake manifold
> 
> #108388 - headlight switch...although DMCH is putting
> up an interesting offer
> here..http://www.delorean.com/headlightswitch.asp
> 
> #110446,#100683 - either grey or black consoles
> 
> #108239,#110523 - either gray or black console covers
> 
> #110419 - left door outside mirror
> 
> obvious = left torsion bar and front left fender,
> dash, binnacle
> 
> The first 3 parts listed I have personal experience
> with trying to find.  The others listed I've "heard"
> are hard to find.
> 
> Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
> to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
> to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
> or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
> that one?
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. 
> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:48:47 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


Enid/Jeremiah,

You asked:

"...does anyone know how easy/hard it is to find the "wood" pieces behind
the seats? I tried to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind or
they're not listed."

The parts you are referring to are called Rear Deckboards and can be found
in the parts manual 8/7/5 #19.

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 4:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


<snip>

Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is to find the "wood"
pieces behind the seats?  I tried to find them in the parts manual, but I'm
either blind or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on that one?


		






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:49:10 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


John,

I respectfully disagree with your statement: "If it's bad the car won't
crank."

I think you wanted to say: "the car wont start".

I'm sure you know that the pick up coil has no affect on cranking the engine
via the starter motor.

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john_at_dml_specialtauto.com] 
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 12:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge



Dave, What makes you think the pick up coil is bad that it has to be
replaced. It will normally read about 600 ohms cold +/- 5% then up to 700
ohms hot. It's just a coil of wire on a plastic bobbin. If it's bad the car
won't crank.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html










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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 00:46:17 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get



>#102482 - coolant pipe from water pump to heater hose
>(underneath intake manifold)
>  
>
What, this one?

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/newparts1.html#coolantpipe

>#106994 - fuel insert from main fuel line under car to
>line that goes to side of fuel distributor
>  
>
This is an adapter to take the standard fitting that's used at the ends 
of all the steel fuel lines and adapt it to the Volvo style fitting on 
the end of the hose. When we have our new fuel hoses made, they're made 
with the correct end meaning this part is then redundant. If you did 
have to get one made, it would not cost much.

>#102765 - clamp that holds idle control motor to side
>of intake manifold
>  
>
I expect there are countless secondhand ones kicking around on old 
Volvos. I daresay it's sourcable through Volvo or Renault over here

>Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
>to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
>to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
>or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
>that one?
>
Hint: They're made of wood....  cheap plywood.

Best WIshes

Martin






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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:36:09 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


 
In a message dated 1/3/2005 6:01:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

I was  looking for left and right torsion bars.  And I was curious how  
difficult it would be to reproduce the bars if they ran out?  I know  they 
were frozen and all that.  What is the price on your left front  fender?  
Last one I saw sold for $2200.  1/8th the price of a  new car!  There have to 
be some parts that are difficult to  find.
I dont consider stripping parts off of parts cars a reliable and long  term 
source for parts.  I'm talking about off the shelf,  re-manufactured or parts 
from other makes and models that fit the  delorean.  What parts from these 
sources are difficult to  find?



I have two 
One I will sell for $1700 the other for $1900 when I sell one the other one  
I will keep or sell for around $2400
One of the ones is perfect
the other one has no dings or dents but needs a good scotchbrite job  
previous owner did not follow the grain all that well. But there is nothing  wrong 
with it.
I can rebrush or scotchbrite it but then I would ask more.
 
So to answer your question I have left front fenders at a reasonable price  
based on market.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 18:54:20 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show Pheasant Run update




Way ahead of you -- my personalized plate _is_ my VIN.

......................LP
10440



> Would
> anyone be interested in having their VIN number on a licence  plate






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 20:27:02 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


Jeremiah, See below:

-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] What parts are (nearly) impossible to get




#102482 - coolant pipe from water pump to heater hose
(underneath intake manifold) ( I have in stock in Stainless steel.)

#106994 - fuel insert from main fuel line under car to
line that goes to side of fuel distributor.
(I have replacement fuel lines that don't need the insert.)

#102765 - clamp that holds idle control motor to side
of intake manifold. ( Have 1 from NOS stock.)

#108388 - headlight switch...although DMCH is putting
up an interesting offer.
( I have a light switch saver ($24.95 )so if you have a good switch, you
would never have to replace it.

I have personal experience
with trying to find.  The others listed I've "heard"
are hard to find.

Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats?  I tried
to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
or they're not listed.  Anyone have any thoughts on
that one?

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 22:03:09 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: DeLorean Gathering in Ohio January 15


All DeLorean enthusiasts are invited to the DeLorean Club of Ohio's 
annual meeting / holiday party on January 15th.  This year it will be at 
Punderson State Park Lodge in the Cherry Dining room (no relation to the 
Chinese automobile).  The get-together starts at noon and we will be 
ordering lunch.  We will also be signing our traditional JZD belated 
birthday card.

Punderson is in the Northeast corner of the state, near Newbury.

If you have been to any of Ken Koncelik's DeLorean Car Shows, you know 
that the Ohio group is very active.  This meeting /  party is where we 
plan our events for 2005, and we welcome your participation and 
suggestions.  If you have a DeLorean or are interested in DeLoreans we 
would love to meet you.  Overnight accomodations are available and some 
of us will be spending the night.  More information about the Punderson 
Lodge is available here:

http://www.pundersonmanorresort.com/static/1.htm

If you plan to come, please send me a private email to RSVP.  If 
inclement weather forces us to reschedule, we will contact anyone who 
has RSVPed.

- Mike Substelny
DeLorean Club of Ohio







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 21:29:29 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Vin number liscence plate


OK 
I will offer the Vin Number on a liscence plate with the Chicago Logo
Has everyone seen the logo that goes on the T-shirt yet 
 
If not I will put a copy on the web page
We went simple this time it is a skyline of chicago with the City Chicago  
written across it and the letter H is a DeLorean
It is a simple design but I thought it was the best one of the samples we  
had made up
they have been avail for some time
 
The plates are plastic so they will not bend or break and can be made  easily.
 
I will make them then distribute them at the show so we can both save money  
on postage and shipping costs.
 
It is a full size plate complete with cutouts
I had about 20 total e-mails (DML and Private saying that you want to do  
this) 
cost will depend on how many I make and will be in the $5 to $6 range
I usually sell these for $10 so they will be $10 after the show.
 
This will be cool
We could use the vin number plate to identify your parking space as well so  
we know the spacing before hand so there are advantages
 
Ken 
 
Ken
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 23:11:03 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


So far I have not seen a part on this thread that someone has not come 
forward and said is not available

so I think we again prove that the DeLorean has excellent parts availability

It took me two months to find a tail light lense for a 92 Chevrolet Caprice 
wagon 

and it is more than the vendors ask for a Delorean tail light 

I think we do pretty good thanks to the vendors and a few private 
entrepeneurs that do some of the harder to find parts and custom parts

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 04:22:01 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Volvo F Series CO Values



Hello Martin. Sorry for the delay and the length of this reply. I
realize you're probably familiar with much of this but others may be
interested in the details.

You wrote: 

>FYI under warm-up conditions, lambda sensor disconnected, and,
>>crucially, *when the full throttle microswitch is pressed* all have
>>exactly the same effect, electrically speaking. This assumes your
>full throttle switch is working.< 

I wrote I didn't follow you, so you clarified:

>My point is a simple one. If you want to play with the lambda system
in open-loop, it's much easier to just press the full throttle switch
than to disconnect the lambda sensor.<

Technically that is not correct, it's NOT electrically the same. As I
said before, the duty cycle with a disconnected O2 sensor and the one
with the WOT switch closed are different. They are not far apart, yes,
but different enough (it can be as much as 20%) to matter if you want
to set things up right. Measure it for yourself and see. It's also
plainly stated in the service manual. You can get away with doing it
your way but it's sloppy.

Then you wrote:

> Attempting to adjust this makes the lambda system "fight" you, and
it only changes once you reach 100% or 0% duty cycle on the frequency
valve's PWM.<

Your point is valid but but does it mean it's OK to set mixture in
closed loop, ie; with the sensor connected? No. Rather than bore the
readers with a long treatise I'll simply say again that doing so will
cause you to end up shifting the loop's output range to a point where
it's ability to make full scale corrections at other times like during
normal driving conditions, fuel component drift with age, ect, is
inhibited. It's basic control theory and doesn't apply only to
automotive applications. I'll be glad to expand on this if asked.

You CAN adjust mixture with the loop closed as long as you monitor
dwell. But (as you correctly stated) the CO will stay the same (you
erroneously claim 1% but we'll get to that) the FV duty cycle will
move around and you'll end up with the loop shifted if you also don't
pay attention to the dwell meter. Put your analyzer on the car,
measure the dwell (or scope the FV signal), adjust mixture, and you'll
see what I mean. But don't take my word for it, the service manual is
pretty clear. Which brings us to...

Martin wrote:

> The DeLorean manual does not mention the exhaust taps, nor any
instructions for using them, but they are there.<

The Delorean manual does indeed mention them, under Section B1 "Lambda
System Operating Test". (It's on page 188 in my manual. (Btw, how did
you originally learn about the plugs?). And it brings us back to why
the CO should NOT be 1% with the loop closed. If I can't convince you
based on the known design properties of O2 sensor based mixture trim
systems then at least take the word of the service manual. 

Under that procedure refer to Step 2:  "Remove both exhaust pipe
plugs. Plugs are located in left and right pipes at exhaust
manifold". 

Step 5: "Disconnect oxygen sensor".

Step 7: "CO should be 1% _at_dml_ +/- .3% curb idle speed". 

Note that "should" really means "adjust it to that if it isn't". The
procedure says "should" because this is, after all, a test procedure
and not an adjustment procedure.

After the other steps (in which you check the controller's response to
a zero and full scale sensor signal using a battery and further test
the WOT switch input), take particular note of Step 12: "Reconnect the
Lambda sensor" and Step 13: "CO should drop below 1%". The fact alone
that the dwell changes between open loop and closed loop tells us the
CO level MUST change. It can't remain at 1% because the duty cycle
will change when you connect the sensor. (This assumes you adjusted it
to 1% in open loop).

Also note the final Step 16: "Remove exhaust gas probes and install
exhaust pipe plugs".

Read the procedure again. Since it clearly states to measure the
exhaust stream *at the pipe plugs* (which are upstream of the catalyst
if one is installed) can you explain how this is any different than a
car without catalyst? Such as as the ones you work with? 

Even ignoring the manual's confirmation, fuel trim systems for
emission control are designed to maintain a stohciometric setpoint
because the O2 sensor is built to output around 450 millivolts at a
Lambda of 1 and the rest of the system is calibrated around that
point. Since CO and O2 are inversely proportional it is mathematically
impossible to have a Lambda of 1 with a CO level of 1%. 

And since the O2 sensor and Lambda loop is calibrated to control at a
setpoint of Lambda 1 the output of the sensor will be shifted rich by
a 1% CO mixture and a properly functioning loop wll act to correct
that deviation. Hence a closed emission loop (with or without catalyst
using any standard or wide band O2 sensor) that remains near 1% CO is
either: A) Itself not operating correctly or B) Is trying to
compensate for an external problem in the fuel system outside of it's
operating range.

If CO stays at 1% closed loop you either have an engine problem or
your analyzer may simply need to be calibrated. (I don't know what you
have but if it's not NDIR based and if you're not using cal gas on a
regular basis it's readings are little more than a guess). As per the
service manual, a leak in the exhaust system or unmetered air entering
the engine are two possible causes of CO levels that don't drop under
closed loop. Or it may simply be as you said, the mixture is
misadjusted to the point the duty cycle can no longer correct for it.
The bottom line is CO should NOT remain at 1% when the loop is closed,
catalyst or not. Both the manual and anyone with a knowledge of Lambda
systems will tell you this. Nor should you adjust (but it's ok to
check) the mixture with the O2 sensor connected for the reasons stated
earlier. 

I know the Deloreans I've work on (when set up properly) don't stay at
1% CO in closed loop when measured before the catalyst. Nor do other
vehicles so equipped. Less than one half of one percent is a typical
value for K Jet/Lambda equipped engines and it's only that high
because the system is such a lousy one compared to injection duration
based EFI. A well operating system will control to much less. Fwiw,
measuring "engine out" emissions (rather than tailpipe emissions) is a
common diagnostic technique in the smog business because a catalyst
can mask engine problems. It's why test pipes are made. Did you really
think the primary reason for availabilty of test pipes is so people
can bypass their catalyst for other reasons? ;)

Note that I'm assuming thoughout all this that other factors on a
Delorean effecting mixture after warm up (primary regulated fuel
pressure and control pressure for example) are working correctly.
Otherwise they too would cause a shift in the loop's output.

By the way, 1% CO may be "healthy" (more power) for the engine but
it's not healthy in any other way. Inefficient combustion is not only
more polluting in a direct sense but by reducing fuel economy it
increases refinery and a myriad of other emissions generated by
increased oil exploration and harvesting. Not to mention the costs
involved. Over millions of vehicles it all adds up. I'll be the first
to admit the Delorean is somewhat gutless in it's stock configuration
but enriching (with the associated increase in CO) *alone* doesn't get
you very much. 

Greg 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 04:27:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Trigger/Stator air gap



I would pull the distributer out! It is possible the screws loosened
up and are lying inside waiting to jam up the distributer. Also
because they are missing you have to wonder what else the P.O. did in
there! It is not too hard to take the whole distributer apart. The
biggest part of the job is getting it out of the car and back in and
timed. The biggest problem besides the gap is that the vacuum advance
would not have any control over the position of the advance plate. The
car should run much better with the screws in holding the plate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Looks like I was missing those 3 screws COMPLETELY, and the reluctor 
> wasn't even aligned with the holes!  Rotating the reluctor to align 
> with the holes actually fixed the air-gap problem, and now my 3 
> points are all within .025mm.  I know that the previous owner had 
> replaced the impulse coil, but he must have forgotten these.  It's 
> kind of funny to think that the car would actually idle without the 
> reluctor/impulse coil being firmly attached.  
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > 
> > There are 3 screws that can be
> > loosened and the with the feeler gauge set the space and then snug 
> them
> > down. I use an 3mm long handle allen tool on the one I fixed.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialtauto.com
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 04:31:53 -0000
From: "cooperbrowdy" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: front coil spring removal



I recently did a spring replacement for the first time on a DeLorean.
I have two sets of external and also purchased a internal compressor.

The internal compressor is the only safe way to go in my opinion.

It is potentially one of the most dangerous jobs you may ever atempt 
on your car. The forces involved and the clearance that makes removal 
and installation (which was actually harder) difficult makes me 
really nervous for anyone that is not familliar with tools and their 
safe use.

 Be careful and always take two minutes to think about each step and 
the potential release of stored energy before you make a move. It is 
NOT worth getting hurt over!!!!!!

Cecil Longwisch
#10663  


























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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 05:02:28 -0000
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Need a Photo



Looking for a head on photo of the time circuit display (the three 
led dates) for a project I am working on. Before I go and screen grab 
one.. Does anyone have one they could email over? A repro is fine 
because I am going to retouch the daylights out of it. Thanks
 
 
Steve
#2700
 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 23:10:34 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge


Yes, I meant won't start. Maybe I should have said in the old terms won't
crank up or if I were talking about the starter it won't crank over.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: DMC Joe [mailto:dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 6:49 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge




John,

I respectfully disagree with your statement: "If it's bad the car won't
crank."

I think you wanted to say: "the car wont start".

I'm sure you know that the pick up coil has no affect on cranking the engine
via the starter motor.

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john_at_dml_specialtauto.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 12:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] The Flickering Tach, High Hunting Idle Challenge



Dave, What makes you think the pick up coil is bad that it has to be
replaced. It will normally read about 600 ohms cold +/- 5% then up to 700
ohms hot. It's just a coil of wire on a plastic bobbin. If it's bad the car
won't crank.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html










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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2005 07:27:40 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Jordan's Encyclopedia of DeLorean Maintenance - gone?


Jordan's site is down at the momnet due to problems with the local
phone company.
It is supposed to be online again in the next week.

If you need something specific - I do have a copy of the
HowTo's. Just let me know which one you need.

Elvis




>From the Technical section of the DMCNews site, there was a link:
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

It had a lot of great tutorials in it, but it appears down at the
moment.  I seem to remember seeing that some / all of the tutorials
were mirrored or hosted elsewhere...

Does anyone know where a mirror is, or the status of the site?
(hopefully not gone for good!)

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 13:54:06 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: DeLorean Speakers



Is it possible to replace the DeLorean's stock 4x10 speakers with the 
much more common 6x9 speakers without changing the appearance of the 
interior?  If so, what does that proceedure entail?

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club - VIN 10365
captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2005 07:46:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: What parts are (nearly) impossible to get


John, If you are talking about the thin wood piece that supports the vinyl that covers the back side of the seat, I can tell you from experience that it is not a problem to replace it. I had my seats recovered in my first DeLorean and the back cover was missing when I bought the car. The seat cover shop fabricated a new wood piece in about 15 minutes. They cut it to shape and then frabricated metal clips to hold it on and pop rivited the clips to the wood back. When finished no one could tell that it was not origional. Rod 10921
John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:

Jeremiah, See below:

-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 3:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] What parts are (nearly) impossible to get




#102482 - coolant pipe from water pump to heater hose
(underneath intake manifold) ( I have in stock in Stainless steel.)

#106994 - fuel insert from main fuel line under car to
line that goes to side of fuel distributor.
(I have replacement fuel lines that don't need the insert.)

#102765 - clamp that holds idle control motor to side
of intake manifold. ( Have 1 from NOS stock.)

#108388 - headlight switch...although DMCH is putting
up an interesting offer.
( I have a light switch saver ($24.95 )so if you have a good switch, you
would never have to replace it.

I have personal experience
with trying to find. The others listed I've "heard"
are hard to find.

Just for kicks, does anyone know how easy/hard it is
to find the "wood" pieces behind the seats? I tried
to find them in the parts manual, but I'm either blind
or they're not listed. Anyone have any thoughts on
that one?

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 02:50:54 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Need a Photo


All that stuff is on http://www.bttfstuff.com

>From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Need a Photo
>Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 05:02:28 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Looking for a head on photo of the time circuit display (the three
>led dates) for a project I am working on. Before I go and screen grab
>one.. Does anyone have one they could email over? A repro is fine
>because I am going to retouch the daylights out of it. Thanks
>
>
>Steve
>#2700
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 07:14:52 -0000
From: "joecellularjoe" <joecellularjoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vin number liscence plate



Ken, 

Been meaning to reply sooner,

I will buy these for each car just for the great effect of having a 
plate with my vin number on it. I'll buy three, one for each car. 
I'll bring at least one to the show this time though.


Thanks,

Joe OBrien



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> OK 
> I will offer the Vin Number on a liscence plate with the Chicago 
Logo
> Has everyone seen the logo that goes on the T-shirt yet 
>  
> If not I will put a copy on the web page
> We went simple this time it is a skyline of chicago with the City 
Chicago  
> written across it and the letter H is a DeLorean
> It is a simple design but I thought it was the best one of the 
samples we  
> had made up
> they have been avail for some time
>  
> The plates are plastic so they will not bend or break and can be 
made  easily.
>  
> I will make them then distribute them at the show so we can both 
save money  
> on postage and shipping costs.
>  
> It is a full size plate complete with cutouts
> I had about 20 total e-mails (DML and Private saying that you want 
to do  
> this) 
> cost will depend on how many I make and will be in the $5 to $6 
range
> I usually sell these for $10 so they will be $10 after the show.
>  
> This will be cool
> We could use the vin number plate to identify your parking space 
as well so  
> we know the spacing before hand so there are advantages
>  
> Ken 
>  
> Ken
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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