From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2414
Date: Monday, January 10, 2005 2:55 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: More thoughts on rust (Thin Sheet Metal)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. RE: Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

4. Rear Fascia fitting
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

5. DFWDMC
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Understanding Fuel Injection
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: DCS Music.. A suggestion from a while BACK
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Piston rings + sleeves
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Dani's New Engine
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. Re: DeLorean Car Show
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: More thoughts on rust (Thin Sheet Metal)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. RE: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Locating the website with all the VINs and Locations of DMC-12s
From: vahottub_at_dml_aol.com

15. a few nit picks
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: a few nit picks
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

17. Re: Rear Fascia fitting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: Piston rings + sleeves
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Re: Piston rings + sleeves
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Re: DeLorean Car Show
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

22. Re: More thoughts on rust
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: DeLorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: DeLorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. Armor All on Stainless
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 16:14:52 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?


Shannon,

It looks like I was writing this response while David sent his reply, so I
will just add this information to his.
  
Fuse #13 fuse has no effect on the motor starter circuit. The only item in
the auto transmission electrical circuit that will prevent the starter
circuit from activating is the neutral safety switch. I know of no problems
with this switch but you could have a connection problem or a defective
start inhibit relay. Considering that you are having other transmission
problems you might want to insure that your transmission electrical harness
is not damaged and that all connections are secure. If the harness looks OK
proceed to the following.

Here is the first test you can perform when you have the "no start"
condition. 

You will need an electrical continuity checker or test device with a
continuity test function. Remove the START INHIBIT RELAY 3/7/4 part #106269
(relay group/back row 2nd from left next to the red relay). Locate blade #86
on the bottom of the relay, locate the corresponding blade receptacle at the
relay socket. Check for continuity between the socket connector and ground.
While you are there insure that the socket connector is secure and has not
been dislodged. If there in no continuity (no ground) the relay will not
activate and the engine will not start. While you are inspecting the relay
socket insure that all of the connector blades are secure and making contact
with the relay blades. 

Here is additional reference information.
Technical Information Manual: P-246 
Workshop Manual M:02:04, M:07:02
Parts Manual 3/7/0, 3/7/4, 4/5/6
Service Bulletin ST-16-10/81

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?

On an automatic the start inhibit relay is used to prevent starting the car
in gear. Temporaraly I would disable the circuit, jumping it out and see if
the trouble goes away. There are many other possablities, like a bad starter
solenoid, bad conections in the start circuit, etc so ruling out the inhibit
circuit is a good place to start. Also inspect the wiring going to the shift
computer. It can get burnt on the hot exhaust pipes if not routed and
secured correctly.
That can cause the fuse to blow and other problems like not-start.
Fuses do not "wear out". They open from vibration or if a current that is
large enough to melt the link is drawn through it. Fuses are generally
oversized so they do not get damaged from an overcurrent of a short
duration. If the fuse blows it is an indication of a problem in the wiring
or a component.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Since I've had the car, I've had situations in which the car will not 
> start. The motor won't turn over. Nothing happens when I turn the key. 
> The lights and all the battery operated items work fine. In some cases 
> I can push the car a few few or move the automatic shifter a few times 
> then the car will start. Yesterday I had the same problem.
> I played with the shifter and tried moving the car back and forth but 
> it still wouldn't start. So I played with the fuses and lot of















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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2005 21:31:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: More thoughts on rust (Thin Sheet Metal)



Not only is DeLorean frame steel low carbon, but it's very thin.
Basically no different than a traditional fender or quarter panel. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Mike - there is a difference in the DeLorean frame compared to other
> cars.  The DeLorean frame is epoxy-coated mild steel.  This means that
> the steel itself has no anti-corrosive properties in it's molecular 
> structure, like stainless steel does.  Other manufacturers use several 
> different coatings to protect their sheet metal from corrosion that 
> DeLorean omitted.  All of the corrosion protection is supposed to 
> be provided by the epoxy coating.  This is a nice idea, but in
practice, 
> it just didn't work all that well.  The problem is that the epoxy
> can become damaged through frame flexure, stone chips, curb
> scuffs, etc.  Once there is an opening, moisture can collect between
> the coating and the mild steel frame.  This means rust - and lots of 
> it.  You won't be able to see it until the epoxy flakes off.  
> 
> 
> --
> Mike









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 21:58:44 +0000 (GMT)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?


I had the same problems as you Shannon. I would have to shake the shifter while in neutral or park sometimes to get it to start. I never got round to solving that problem, it seemed to go away by itself!
Then however, I had another problem where the car would not start, or even crank, and shaking the shifter would not work. I eventually narrowed it down to the starter solenoid after checking relays, fuses, wiring etc. I took it out, dismantled it and automatically recoqnised it was fried.
 
Thomas 
Vin 4087 (now a manual, had enough of autos)

DMC Joe <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net> wrote:


Shannon,

It looks like I was writing this response while David sent his reply, so I
will just add this information to his.

Fuse #13 fuse has no effect on the motor starter circuit. The only item in
the auto transmission electrical circuit that will prevent the starter
circuit from activating is the neutral safety switch. I know of no problems
with this switch but you could have a connection problem or a defective
start inhibit relay. Considering that you are having other transmission
problems you might want to insure that your transmission electrical harness
is not damaged and that all connections are secure. If the harness looks OK
proceed to the following.

Here is the first test you can perform when you have the "no start"
condition. 

You will need an electrical continuity checker or test device with a
continuity test function. Remove the START INHIBIT RELAY 3/7/4 part #106269
(relay group/back row 2nd from left next to the red relay). Locate blade #86
on the bottom of the relay, locate the corresponding blade receptacle at the
relay socket. Check for continuity between the socket connector and ground.
While you are there insure that the socket connector is secure and has not
been dislodged. If there in no continuity (no ground) the relay will not
activate and the engine will not start. While you are inspecting the relay
socket insure that all of the connector blades are secure and making contact
with the relay blades. 

Here is additional reference information.
Technical Information Manual: P-246 
Workshop Manual M:02:04, M:07:02
Parts Manual 3/7/0, 3/7/4, 4/5/6
Service Bulletin ST-16-10/81

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?

On an automatic the start inhibit relay is used to prevent starting the car
in gear. Temporaraly I would disable the circuit, jumping it out and see if
the trouble goes away. There are many other possablities, like a bad starter
solenoid, bad conections in the start circuit, etc so ruling out the inhibit
circuit is a good place to start. Also inspect the wiring going to the shift
computer. It can get burnt on the hot exhaust pipes if not routed and
secured correctly.
That can cause the fuse to blow and other problems like not-start.
Fuses do not "wear out". They open from vibration or if a current that is
large enough to melt the link is drawn through it. Fuses are generally
oversized so they do not get damaged from an overcurrent of a short
duration. If the fuse blows it is an indication of a problem in the wiring
or a component.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" wrote:
> 
> 
> Since I've had the car, I've had situations in which the car will not 
> start. The motor won't turn over. Nothing happens when I turn the key. 
> The lights and all the battery operated items work fine. In some cases 
> I can push the car a few few or move the automatic shifter a few times 
> then the car will start. Yesterday I had the same problem.
> I played with the shifter and tried moving the car back and forth but 
> it still wouldn't start. So I played with the fuses and lot of















To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links








		
---------------------------------
 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2005 23:24:43 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Rear Fascia fitting



Group,

I've been working with Ken & Josh on this problem, but I thought I'd 
also send out a message to the list in case anyone else has thought 
of any good solutions.

I bought a front/rear fascia from these guys and they really look 
fantastic.  The problem I'm having is fitting the rear one 
correctly.  While my original fascia was not aligned properly either, 
I'd like to make this one look nice.  Here are some pictures of it:

http://tinyurl.com/52y7q

I've tried pushing on each side while re-tightening the 3 side 
bolts.  I've also tried moving the pontoon-attachment brackets toward 
the front of the car as far as possible, but alas, I can't seem to 
get the fascia flush with the stainless body.  Any help?

thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 00:34:21 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DFWDMC



The Dallas Fort Worth DeLorean Motor Club had it's first real meeting
today on 01/09/05 at a little stainless steel 50's style diner called
"Scotty's" in Fort Worth Texas today.
We had seven DeLoreans and twelve people show up.
We had all the cars parked in a line and did draw some attention.
A great time was had by all who finally got to put names to faces.

This was mostly possible thanks to the DML, were most of us
had all met online here, so a big thanks to the DML for bringing
us all together.

If there is anyone else on the list near the DFW area who
would like to be a part of our group please contact me.

If you want to see some photos of the event or learn more
please visit:

http://www.dfwdmc.com
Go to the PHOTO GALLERY.

Thanks again,
- Videobob
VIN#5278 OCT-81








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 01:51:28 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)


Hi Brian

We already have fuel hoses made and with hose supplied, I can have the 
hoses made for you, if you're interested.

BUT..... and it's a big BUT

The fuel hose used for the injectors must not be too elastic - ie under 
pressure, they cannot expand. We prototyped a set of hoses made from 10 
bar "green stripe" fuel hose - regular rubber hose rated for unleaded. 
At idle, they cause an oscillation in the pressure in the injector lines 
causing the injectors to pulse, and generate a very poor, erratic idle. 
The effect was very surprising and it took a lot of investigation to 
find the problem. This is a unique issue with K-jet injection where the 
injectors are "cracked" by nothing more than the pressure in the lines, 
and at idle, they are only just open. This is not something that will be 
a problem on an EFI engine. Our fuel hose sets are now made from a high 
pressure thermoplastic hose which is rated to several thousand PSI, but 
crucially is rated for unleaded fuel. It's surprising how many types of 
"fuel hose" there are out there that aren't rated for it.

Pressure-wise, the hos emust be rated to at least 75psi

Best Wishes

Martin
www.delorean.co.uk

ashtonorlan wrote:

>
>I am replacing all of my original D Fuel lines with new ones. I dont 
>feel the stainless are my thing, so I am looking abroad.
>Does anyone know the exact measurements of the fuel lines, inner, 
>outer and length of each, and also where one can get colored fuel 
>lines that will accept a banjo fitting. I just want to do the main 6.
>These are what I found thus far.
>
>
>http://rotor.com.sg/fuelacclist.htm
>
>Just dont know what to order...any help Rocks!
>
>Brian D, With the coolest D.
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 02:40:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Understanding Fuel Injection



Problem may not be "understanding" fuel injection. There are certain
advantages of carburation that can make it desirable over injection
irrespective of knowledge:
- One central point of fuel metering vs individual ones (each cylinder
is always guaranteed to receive an identical fuel/air mixture, ring
and valve health permitting). Note that some carb'd manifolds are at
least dual plane, and some injection in fact shares a common throttle
body.
- Fewer components to buy and maintain. Those in common (filters,
hoses, etc) cost significantly less.
- Much better engine access (true of all carb'd vs injected versions
of the same block).
- Carburetors do wear out, but they rarely fail catastrophically
(except for the imfamous Holly "Power Valve"). Same for low PSI fuel
pumps that feed them. You can limp for thousands of miles on dying
components.
- Carburetors are much less sensitive to contaminants in the fuel system.
- I think the fire risk is lower due to lower fuel system pressures.

For some people these are more important than any performance
advantages of fuel injection.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> One 
> owner in our club (who has since passed on) DID do a conversion and
> last I heard it was running well. He did it because he didn't
> understand fuel injection and wanted to "tinker".
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 23:11:02 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DCS Music.. A suggestion from a while BACK


In a message dated 1/9/05 2:56:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:

> How about this for an idea. Have a band but dont have them play loud 
> and for the older or people with hearing problems have seating for them 
> reserved away from the speakers?
> 
> Mark V
> 

I did tone down the music Friday but i think they cranked it back Sat
I have tried that and to be honest it doesn't seem to work 
Bands do crank

I was up front all day at PF and I didn't have a problem although my wife 
says I can't hear.

This is a good suggestion and I need to figure out how to make it work
Maybe we use a band outside and leave the convention center without music 
I don't know if I have electrical outside

At PF I had them turn down the volume and only use stage speakers not the 
overhead so there were only two speakers and one monitor.

If anyone has a suggestion or can monitor it for me that would help 
I simply can't 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 04:34:31 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Piston rings + sleeves



First I just want to say thank you to everyone and I appreciate your
posts. Thanks Nathan, DeLo or not, your contributions are very
appreciated, I will check out the injectors and idle circuit, as well
as a few other components that haven't been checked. I will call
and
get the parts from the mentioned Volvo Dept. For David Teitelbaum,
you're absolutely right; I probably won't need to rebuild everything
in the engine. But, I feel the need to check- knowing the abusive
history on my particular engine, and if I'm checking-I may as well
replace parts. In CA I won't have my ring installers or compressors,
torque wrenches, valve tools, gauges and etc (at least not until I get
a garage). So, get it done now and never have to worry about it I say.
I'm a bit confused though, I was always under the impression that
these were good little motors, why are some saying they blow up early?
Is it because of the oil delivery problems? Thanks again guys!!
-----Dani B. #5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 04:38:37 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Dani's New Engine



I'm curious where you located and what you used as a fuel pump. I know
that some marine PRVs had a block mounted pump, but these are
very rare right? -----Dani B. #5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2005 22:52:25 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show



Ken,

I *would* like to take a look at your books.  That way I could try to figure
out how you make this stuff so damn cheap!  Keep doing it the way you're
doing it.

Jake (who agrees with the "no band" idea, though)



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 11:04 AM
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Car Show


>
>
> Hi
>
> Just wanted to pass on one thought on the show that came to me by a
private
> e-mail/
>
> I do share the operations of the show with you in hopes you get an
> understanding on what it takes to put this show on.  I do not have to  and
no other
> group does.  My books have always been open and were on  display at PF and
I
> usually bring it to club events.  This helps me run a  more efficient show
> financially.
>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 04:39:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: More thoughts on rust (Thin Sheet Metal)



Any anti-corrosion system has a finite life. Even a galvanized frame
will eventually rot after the zinc corrodes away. All paints have a
finite lifetime, epoxy being a little better has a longer life. In any
case once the protections' lifetime is exceeded you can expect the
base metal to be unprotected. I have worked on all kinds of cars and
many didn't have ANY protection! That makes any survivors even more
valuable, most others have long since dissolved. Cars from the 60's
and 70's are especailly bad, the metal got thinner and thinner and the
protection got less and less. The disposable mentality, you traded the
car in anyway after 3-5 years so who cared! One of the failings of
epoxy is when it fails it seems to accelerate the corroison by
trapping moisture against the metal when it cracks. Probably the
"best" thing to do is remove all of the epoxy, replace any damaged
metal, and hot-dip galvanize the frame. This would add some weight.
Another idea would be to use a rust-inhibiting primer like POR-15. In
any case since the lifetime of the epoxy is over the thing to do would
be to remove it and replace it with something else. The frame is not
the only thing susceptible to rust. Brake lines, hardware, the
headlight boxes, brake cables, etc are all damaged by corrosion. The
bottom line here is if you want your car to last a long time you won't
drive it when the roads are salted. In the salt belt most people that
drive fancy cars park them for the winter and use a "beater" for the
winter months. The convertable (and the Delorean) is saved for the
NICE weather. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Not only is DeLorean frame steel low carbon, but it's very thin.
> Basically no different than a traditional fender or quarter panel. 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 02:00:56 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)


Brian,
The inner fuel line is black Polyamide. It was originally heated and the
connectors pushed in by some kind of gig.. The outer tubing could be almost
anything that can stand the heat.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com






-----Original Message-----
From: ashtonorlan [mailto:ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:31 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)





I am replacing all of my original D Fuel lines with new ones. I dont
feel the stainless are my thing, so I am looking abroad.
Does anyone know the exact measurements of the fuel lines, inner,
outer and length of each, and also where one can get colored fuel
lines that will accept a banjo fitting. I just want to do the main 6.
These are what I found thus far.


http://rotor.com.sg/fuelacclist.htm

Just dont know what to order...any help Rocks!

Brian D, With the coolest D.










To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 09:33:05 EST
From: vahottub_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Locating the website with all the VINs and Locations of DMC-12s


( Moderator's note: Check the DML web site: www.dmcnews.com for the 'Owners List.)


Any advice, I have been there once, but cannot remember where to go on the  
web now.  Thanks.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 15:20:37 -0000
From: "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: a few nit picks



Hi everyone I recently changed the automatic toa 5-speed and have a 
few questions.
First one is I have a small tranny leak nothing big. What happens 
wether I drive it or not a small puddle forms under the car, maybe 
about a hand size. Its been doing this for about three weeks now. My 
mechanic said he saw it in the shop but didn't get to look at it 
just then. He suggested that it may clear its self up. Just wanted 
to know if it may do this or not, I have been watching it and he 
said to call him if it gets worse. My next question is when I'm 
driving the car if I don't shift quick enough at say first gear my 
battery lite comes on. It has a brand new alternator which is an 
upgraded GM one. It also flickers on and off when whithin the first 
maybe 5 min on the road. It also does when I hit around 75-85 mph. 
If I hit 85 it stays on until I let the car slow down a bit. The car 
acts normal other then the cd player skipping on the first one or 
two times. It did this when the automatic was put in also.
And the last question is my fuel distrubitor was recamended by my 
mechainc to replace it, I wanted to do so and it was ready to be 
done until the tranny went. At the moment my funds for the car are 
gone:( I have to wait and build them back up. But what it may do is 
it makes a bagining sound and if I push the car without reving the 
engine it will stall. If I reve the engine it goes away then acts 
normal. Is this a sign the distrubitor is going? How long may it 
have? It also did this when the automatic was in tha car around 9 
months ago. And it only acts up when the car is first started. After 
that its fine. It has only done it twice in the three weeks I have 
had the car back and I put around 300 miles in it.

Any help is welcome,
Thanks for reading,
Darryl
VIN 5898
I also still have a few automatic parts left for sale please email 
me if interested at DeLorean170_at_dml_aol.com








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 16:43:32 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: a few nit picks



I would say that the leak is caused by your rear main seal.  This can 
only be replaced when the transmission/clutch are removed, and if 
it's original, I doubt it will clear itself up.  If you used a 
DeLorean vendor clutch kit, it should have come with a new rear main 
seal and your mechanic should have installed it.  

The alternator sounds like it's bad, or that it's not outputting 
enough current at low engine RPMs.  I have an 180 amp GM-style 
alternator in my car, and I have no trouble with it, so contact me 
off list about wiring it (if you did it yourself).  

I'm not sure what you are saying about your fuel distributor, but it 
would seem unnecessary to replace it.  They aren't very complicated, 
and if it's not leaking, a good cleaning can make a big improvement.

Matt
#1604  
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi everyone I recently changed the automatic toa 5-speed and have a 
> few questions.
> First one is I have a small tranny leak nothing big. What happens 
> wether I drive it or not a small puddle forms under the car, maybe 
> about a hand size. Its been doing this for about three weeks now. 
My 
> mechanic said he saw it in the shop but didn't get to look at it 
> just then. He suggested that it may clear its self up. Just wanted 
> to know if it may do this or not, I have been watching it and he 
> said to call him if it gets worse. My next question is when I'm 
> driving the car if I don't shift quick enough at say first gear my 
> battery lite comes on. It has a brand new alternator which is an 
> upgraded GM one. It also flickers on and off when whithin the first 
> maybe 5 min on the road. It also does when I hit around 75-85 mph. 
> If I hit 85 it stays on until I let the car slow down a bit. The 
car 
> acts normal other then the cd player skipping on the first one or 
> two times. It did this when the automatic was put in also.
> And the last question is my fuel distrubitor was recamended by my 
> mechainc to replace it, I wanted to do so and it was ready to be 
> done until the tranny went. At the moment my funds for the car are 
> gone:( I have to wait and build them back up. But what it may do is 
> it makes a bagining sound and if I push the car without reving the 
> engine it will stall. If I reve the engine it goes away then acts 
> normal. Is this a sign the distrubitor is going? How long may it 
> have? It also did this when the automatic was in tha car around 9 
> months ago. And it only acts up when the car is first started. 
After 
> that its fine. It has only done it twice in the three weeks I have 
> had the car back and I put around 300 miles in it.
> 
> Any help is welcome,
> Thanks for reading,
> Darryl
> VIN 5898
> I also still have a few automatic parts left for sale please email 
> me if interested at DeLorean170_at_dml_a...








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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 16:44:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Fascia fitting



The facias never fit great in that area and I am guessing but they
seem to shrink so they fit worse as they age. Especially if you remove
it and try to fit another. In any case it is a compromise to get all
the adges to line up and fit. Maybe more grinding, spacers, washers,
and patience can get it to fit better.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Group,
> 
> I've been working with Ken & Josh on this problem, but I thought I'd 
> also send out a message to the list in case anyone else has thought 
> of any good solutions.
> 
> I bought a front/rear fascia from these guys and they really look 
> fantastic.  The problem I'm having is fitting the rear one 
>








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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 16:51:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Colored Fuel Lines (BLUE)



This is one of the reasons on many cars with fuel injection you will
see solid metal lines. On some cars they go so far as to make sure
each line to each injector is the same length, to make shorter ones
they just add some bends or coils. On many cars they use a fuel rail
to reduce pulsations as injectors switch on and off so quickly they
cause all kinds of interactions with each other. When you change a
part on a car you have to figure out all the reasons the manufacuturer
used the things he used. Economics is a big reason, but not the only
reason! Maybe all you really have to do is change the outer (cover)
hose if it is just a look you are after?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Hi Brian
> 
> We already have fuel hoses made and with hose supplied, I can have the 
> hoses made for you, if you're interested.
> 
> BUT..... and it's a big BUT
> 
> 








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 17:04:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Piston rings + sleeves



The PRV IS "A good little motor". It's problem in a Delorean is that
it can't tolerate being overheated and with the Delorean's cooling
system being so large it can fail especailly if it is not taken care
of considering it's age. My advice is still to do a compression test,
a leak-down test, and measure the oil consumption. If you have an oil
leak, fix it. At the most you probably only need a "top job" if even
that. If the engine wasn't overheated all you probably need is a
master water pump kit, a complete tune-up, and have the fuel injectors
cleaned and tested. If it was overheated, unless it was REALLY COOKED,
replacing the head gaskets and milling the heads flat is all you
should need. The core of the engine, the short block, is pretty
bulletproof as evidenced by the many Deloreans with turbos on them and
it's history. You hear very few engine (mechanical) problems. Most
engine problems seem to be related either to overheating, neglect,
fuel system, or just plain old worn out tune-up type parts. You seem
to have already made up your mind to tear it all apart though. If you
still intend to then you need some special tools to do it "right".
david Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> First I just want to say thank you to everyone and I appreciate your
> posts. Thanks Nathan, DeLo or not, your contributions are very
> appreciated, I will check out the injectors and idle circuit, as well
> as a few other components that haven't been checked. I will call
> and
> get the parts from the mentioned Volvo Dept. For David Teitelbaum,
> you're absolutely right; I probably won't need to rebuild everything
> 








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 12:35:16 -0600
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Piston rings + sleeves


The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently, the
cam chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard
to check, making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later
on' in life. The blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to
me.

The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore to
fix. And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification
to the front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
tensioners as well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes
checking up on those little beasts a whole lot easier.

When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another engine.

Nathan Robinson


Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the
Ford Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly
little PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas
shortages at that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines
have more displacement and more cylinders and more electronics,
however the guts (as far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look
to be the same.

Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good
thing to do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the
system, is install spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on
the engine coolant tubes right under the intake manifold. (there are
two IIRC) If (when you take your engine apart) there is antifreeze on
the top of your engine block, (and it happens to make a mess when it
gets there) run to the junkyard and grab some spring clamps off a
triton engine (which just so happens to have most everything in the
same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a far more common
engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.

Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts,
etc... is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad
expensive, but good stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap
(OEM and others) prices (and photos) of whatever you're looking for.
Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm
sure are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same
for that particular 260 car. ('80-'85)





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 10:49:50 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show


Ken,
    What a memory you have.  I was reading that long blurb with interest and 
was startled to see my name mentioned......anyway it will be 84 at Chicago!! 
Go ahead an imprint my name on the Plaque for the Oldest Owner!! Ho Ho.
    Murray
    Vin: 






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 13:39:09 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: More thoughts on rust



In a message dated 1/9/05 12:28:50 PM, michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:
> 
> < But if the Delorean frame is somehow more prone to rust, then I'm
> definitely concerned about my winter driving habits. >
> 

Mike:

The DeLorean like all cars should be driven.

I brought my DeLorean with the purpose of it to be a daily driven car.    I 
live in the heart of NYC and I brought my car in Detroit in 1996.   On my first 
maiden voyage home, I drove it in the snow and rain nonstop except for gas 
fill up.    I enjoyed that drive that day/night which taught me how the DeLorean 
behaves in such weather conditions.   Since then I have put on close to 
100,000 miles on it.    I also have driven my DeLorean in all the different seasons 
whether it was a short hop or on the many the long trips interstate.    My 
DeLorean has been through rain, sleet, snow and etc, including very hot and 
humid days.   As a matter of fact, I have just driven my DeLorean in the snow just 
two weekends ago.   The only problems that I experienced are with the tires 
in the dealing with the snow and the NYC potholes (sinkholes).   The tires that 
I present have are the Michelins and they are my fourth set of tires.   They 
are better then Yokohomas (I had two sets and they are terrible in the snow), 
Dunlops (not too bad) and NCTs (too old and didn't have them long enough to 
tell).

As far as the frame rusting, it is part of the wear and tear that comes with 
it usage and age.   The salt will be an earlier demise for the mild steel 
frame but everyone has to understand that as long as the parts are available and 
there are competent people to repair them and there are all the DeLorean 
Vendors to support it.   The only problems are that it maybe a hassle in dealing 
with it or one's budget doesn't SUPPORT the way the car is being used.   So, 
unless one wants to keep the frame as “original,” then they will be right as to 
put their cars away in storage for the winter.    

I had replaced the front sections of my frame twice, by PJ Grady due to rust. 
  If I find that some part of my frame needs replacement at the present.... I 
will just do it.   If the frame is beyond repair and it needs another one, I 
will get another frame ..... Or may be I will just replace it with the 
Stainless Steel Frame by Pearce?   Then maybe I will replace the engine with the high 
performance by DMHC at the same time? 

Anyway, I will keep driving as I normally would, as to enjoy the 
DeLorean..... Oh yes, BTW... I am going to PJ Grady this week to get the angle drive 
change for the fourth time!   It died on me yesterday on the way home.   Now that 
is a part that STILL needs to be address with a better one.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 15:26:48 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show


well you will be 85 or 86 by show time

Can't do the plaque with your name yet 
You might be out done LOL

thanks

Ken





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 15:30:32 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show


You are more than welcome to see the books but it won't tell you how I get the prices

You would have to see me beg on my knees for some of the pricing LOL

I won't hold it agains you for the band
You can sing instead

Ken





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 15:47:17 -0500
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Armor All on Stainless


What does everybody use to get the overspray of Armor All off the stainless? I am using a sponge now to put on the Armor All but had sprayed my tires and it left little spots all over the stainless that hasn't washed off after several cleanings.

Steve
#2700

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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