From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2416
Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 2:33 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Armor All on Stainless
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

3. Re: Re: a few nit picks
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. DCS Band
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: PRV Timing Chain Tensioners - Oil Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: a few nit picks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Armor All on Stainless
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Re: PRV Timing Chain Tensioners - Oil Problems
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

9. Re: DeLorean Speakers
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. RE: Re: Piston rings + sleeves
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: Re: Fails CALIF emission
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: Door openers and alarm sys
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Unidentified Connectors in engine bay
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Center Console Modification
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. RE: Re: a few nit picks
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. RE: a few nit picks
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Replacing Reverse Light Switch
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

19. Re: Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

20. Re: Re: Monster Nation - Rich W.'s Delorean Projects (Jan. 2005)
From: david a <david1fa_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Prototype 1 is on Ebay.
From: "delowalk" <delowalk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Re: Monster Nation - Rich W.'s Delorean Projects (Jan. 2005)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

24. Re: Re: Piston rings + sleeves
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. Re: Prototype 1 is on Ebay.
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 18:25:05 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Car Show


The DJ is self powered so it does not matter 
that is why I have him 
if all goes dark he can provide light as well
If you remember at Memphis the Ticket pavilion sound system did not work and he jumped right in and provided the sound and mic for Ryan Pelton and Cici Geerdink
Plus the rest of the show

Ken





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 01:28:25 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Armor All on Stainless



Maybe I am crazy but how about just spraying the armor all on a rag then apply it to the car to avid overspraying?  Works for me :)  Better yet find something better than Armor All.  I think almost any other brand is better. 

Gary


<<What does everybody use to get the overspray of Armor All off the stainless?
I am using a sponge now to put on the Armor All but had sprayed my tires and
it left little spots all over the stainless that hasn't washed off after
several cleanings.

Steve
#2700>>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 20:43:50 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: a few nit picks


In a message dated 1/10/05 5:16:50 PM Central Standard Time, 
mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> The distrubitor isn't leaking at all, he said that there is a pin that 
> alows a plate of some kind to move (sorry for being so general but I'm pretty bad 
> at this stuff at the moment) and the pin is bent out of shape, what happnes 
> is when the car starts it could be cold or hot and the car will start fine 
> but once you push the gas and let of the clutch the car will hesitate. If you 
> rev the engine it smooths out, if I don't rev it it will stall. It did it with 
> both tranny set ups. 
> 

How about sending your distributor to PJ Grady and letting them test it for 
proper function?  They will clean it for you while it is there and let you know 
if it really needs replacing. that's a lot of money to drop on a part when 
similar symptoms could come from a vacuum leak or poor CO setting.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 03:12:24 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: DCS Band



Okay, now ya got me bugged.

Soooo-- Sean has a rock n roll band in Wisconsin?  Interesting.  How 
many other rock n roll types (Oh what the hen, CW too!)  we got 
hiding in the woods out there?  Any of you guys on RigTips?  NAMM?

I know we don't wanna rattle the walls at DCS, but there's other cats 
need skinnin' in this world...

Ray
10693 and Counting








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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 04:17:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Timing Chain Tensioners - Oil Problems



PRV timing chain tensioners are loaded by engine oil (passes through
them on the way to the camshafts). If the chains wear too badly the
tensioner pistons will extend so far that oil runs past them back to
the pan, leaving the camshafts dry. This is one of the sources of "PRV
oil problems", endemic to B28 as well as B27 (timing chain tensioners
are identical).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> 
> The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently, the
> cam chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard
> to check, making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later
> on' in life. The blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to
> me.
> 
> The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore to
> fix. And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification
> to the front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
> tensioners as well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes
> checking up on those little beasts a whole lot easier.
> 
> When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
engine.
> 
> Nathan Robinson
> 









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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 04:31:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: a few nit picks



If it is leaking "towards the rear" and you know it to be the
transmission then it is very likely one or both of the output seals.
You may also need the sleeve to put on the flange where the seal
rides, that spot wears. It could also be (if it is way towards the
rear) the motor. The first spot to check is the sending unit on the
rear left side. It can be removed, resealed, and reinstalled. Check
the wire going to it and replace it if it is crispy. This sending unit
lights the oil light, it has no connection to the gauge.
Check that the throttle linkage is hitting the idle micro
consistantly. If the throttle cable is sticky it may not always be
returning to the idle position. It could also be a worn quadrant link
or sticking throttle spool. The throttle linkage MUST work smoothly
and easily with no "break-out" forces.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I did use a vendor clutch kit, I know he said that he replaced the
seal along with installing everything. But it is leaking from what
seems to be the rear also a small puddle forms underneath it, I
assumed it may just be the way its dripping down. (I hope)
> 
> I have the 180 amp from GM, the mechainc did all of the work, but if
you do have the instructions, maybe I can take a look, I'm not very
good at that stuff but I can always pass it along.
> 
> The distrubitor isn't leaking at all, he said that there is a pin
that alows a plate of some kind to move (sorry for being so general
but I'm pretty bad at this stuff at the moment) and the pin is bent
out of shape, what happnes is when the car starts it could be cold or
hot and the car will start fine but once you push the gas and let of
the clutch the car will hesitate. If you rev the engine it smooths
out, if I don't rev it it will stall. It did it with both tranny set ups. 
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Darryl VIN 5898 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 04:35:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Armor All on Stainless



There are much better products available for the tires than
Armour-All. Go to a local auto store and there are literaly shelves of
sprays for tires. Get something with a UV protectant. I find it easier
to take the tires off the car, wash them throughly, and spray them
before I put them back on. Never let any of this stuff get on the
tread area. Trust me on this!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DmcGman_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> 
> Maybe I am crazy but how about just spraying the armor all on a rag
then apply it to the car to avid overspraying?  Works for me :) 
Better yet find something better than Armor All.  I think almost any
other brand is better. 
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
> <<What does everybody use to get the overspray of Armor All off the
stainless?
> I am using a sponge now to put on the Armor All but had sprayed my
tires and
> it left little spots all over the stainless that hasn't washed off after
> several cleanings.
> 
> Steve
> #2700>>
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 23:03:23 -0600
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Timing Chain Tensioners - Oil Problems




One of the things that can cause lubrication problems with the timing chains
is the plastic screens covering the oil passages to the tensioners. If the
engine has a dramatic overheat they can melt or deform to restrict oil flow.
The tensioners maintain tension by oil pressure. If the flow is obstructed
the timing chains can slacken.  It's not a real common occurrence but if you
ever disassemble the timing chain cover and chain tensioners. I'd recommend
checking them.

Bruce Benson

> PRV timing chain tensioners are loaded by engine oil (passes through
> them on the way to the camshafts). If the chains wear too badly the
> tensioner pistons will extend so far that oil runs past them back to
> the pan, leaving the camshafts dry. This is one of the sources of "PRV
> oil problems", endemic to B28 as well as B27 (timing chain tensioners
> are identical).
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...>
> wrote:
> >
> > The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently, the
> > cam chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard
> > to check, making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later
> > on' in life. The blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to
> > me.
> >
> > The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> > thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore to
> > fix. And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification
> > to the front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
> > tensioners as well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes
> > checking up on those little beasts a whole lot easier.
> >
> > When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
> engine.
> >
> > Nathan Robinson
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 23:17:00 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Speakers


Has anyone made a custom tweeter enclosure for the rounded out space
where the front pilar meets the dash?  I think it would be an
excellent place for a moulded tweeter box directed at the driver.

Jeff


On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 17:08:07 +0000, Martin Gutkowski
<martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> 
> I successfully fitted 6" drivers in the rear by drilling a coupe of
> extra holes in the braket allowing it to be rotated away from the wheel
> well. Can't say they sound superb but they won't without an enclosure.
> Still miles better than originals though
> 
> Martin
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 00:19:20 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Piston rings + sleeves


 Nathan,

I respectfully disagree.

In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one subject
I've had to repeat over and over.
Once again, here are the facts.

The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are related to
the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were in
Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to start
chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam failure at around
80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine
manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil passages
and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely eliminated the
earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a
negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.

Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a matter of
fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a DeLorean
engine. 

DMC Joe  

-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves



The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently, the cam
chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to check,
making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in life. The
blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.

The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore to fix.
And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to the
front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the tensioners as
well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on those
little beasts a whole lot easier.

When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another engine.

Nathan Robinson


Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the Ford
Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly little
PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas shortages at
that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more
displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the guts (as
far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.

Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good thing to
do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is install
spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant tubes
right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you take your
engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block, (and it
happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and grab some
spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most
everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a far more
common
engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.

Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts, etc...
is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive, but good
stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others) prices (and
photos) of whatever you're looking for.
Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm sure
are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same for that
particular 260 car. ('80-'85)





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links



 








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 23:36:32 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fails CALIF emission


A Stove pipe should not affect your emissions at all since its
by-passed after the engine warms up.  The emission test should only be
performed whent he engine is hot, or else the Cat won't work properly
or at all and cause sky-high readings  Be sure to drive the car around
for 15 mins before hooking it up to the equipment.  This can be a
common technique to get people to fail and then give the shop an
excuse to do repair work.

Jeff
#10544
  


On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 11:56:55 -0600, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I passed emissions last year with no stove pipe and nothing after the
> air filter element, all i had was the air box and filter.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> On Thursday, January 6, 2005, at 11:21  PM, dandan67 wrote:
> 
> > Six weeks ago, mine registered 435 ppm of NO at 15 MPH and 353 ppm at
> > 25 MPH. The max is 1148 and 978, respectively. And I forgot to install
> > that flexy aluminum hose thing from the heat stove to the air intake.
> >
> > I felt lucky back then, and waaay lucky now!
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Dan

> >
> >> My car seems to frequently fail the Nitrous Oxide test on the
> >> California Emmisions Inspection.





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 23:42:33 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door openers and alarm sys


Did this system require cutting or destruction of the original wiring harness?

JEff 
#10544



On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 04:08:24 -0000, likl3189 <mannyone_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Just finished Installing DPNW Deluxe system with door opening
> actuators and 2 more actuators to replace the problem causing
> door lock solenoids,also installed a two stage sensor that plugs
> in to the controller so that when some one comes near the car
> it starts to chirp, the alarm system has all the features of a modern
> system keyless entry,trunk open and window roll down capability if
> you want them etc.





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 00:34:40 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay


I've created an album for #10544 and put in a few pics.  (Anyone know
why it says I've used 30 M of space when I've only 2 M of photos in
there?)

Please take a look at the picture called Unknown Connector.  Its 2
wires (one is black with a slate stripe) near the Idle Microswitch and
WOT switch.  The go into a black connector but theres nothing there to
connect to.

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=Unknown+connector.jpg

Another pic is called Ungrounded.  Its a ground wire on the coil
resistor plate that isn't long enough to connect to anythere.  Where
should it go so I can splice a fix in to it.

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=UnGrounded.jpg

Any advice would be nice.  Finally I posted pics of my fixed
cross-over pipr with a modern flex portion.  The flex piece cost about
$15 from Napa and the labor wasn't bad either.  Much improved over my
original that cracked and was leaking, plus a LOT cheaper thana  new
pipe.

Jeff 
#10544





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 00:46:34 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder


If you are like me you really would like a decent cup holder for the
DeLorean.  Afterall its not practical to lug around a friend everytime
you need someone to hold your drink.  I also couldn't justify spending
nearly $100 on a cup holder sold by a vendor.  I did a search on
Google for "Folding Cup Hodler" and found this link
http://www.v-sales.com/cup_holders.htm  (min. order is $15 so another
source may be better)

I bought the black and grey versions to see which I liked, bought a
piece of aluminum from Home Depot and some Epoxy.  The results are a
great cup holder that works great, involves no modification of the
car, and costs less than $15.  I've posted pics on my web site of the
tools, equipment, and end result.  I'll make a HOWTO with detailewd
measurements and directioins but I think that if you take a look
almost anyone would be able to whip one of these out without all of
that.
 
http://jeffphillips.com/pics/My%20Vehicles/DeLorean/Cup%20Holder/index.htm

I'm not making or selling these, I just wanted to pass on the info for
others to make their own.  Thanks!

Jeff
#10544





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 00:50:55 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Center Console Modification


Has anyone experimented with putting a shallow compartment in the
center console (arm rest) just aft of the switches?  It seems that you
could put a shallow compartment with a latched hinged lid for things
like map, pen, and CD storage there.  I know they're impossible to
replace but perhaps the entire thing can be refabs with that in place.

Also a shallow open tray lined with felt above the center vents, on
the top surface of the center console would be a great place for
stashing sunglasses and some change.

If anyone has done this please contact me offline I'd love to see some
pics and get some advise.  Send email to jeff(at)jeffphillips.com

Jeff 
#10544





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 01:24:49 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: a few nit picks


Darryl, Enclosed is a link of the control plunger inside the fuel
distributor. I'm not for sure what he means by a pin. There isn't one inside
the distributor.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-dist-after.jpg






-----Original Message-----
From: Darryl Givens [mailto:mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 4:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: a few nit picks





I did use a vendor clutch kit, I know he said that he replaced the seal
along with installing everything. But it is leaking from what seems to be
the rear also a small puddle forms underneath it, I assumed it may just be
the way its dripping down. (I hope)

I have the 180 amp from GM, the mechainc did all of the work, but if you do
have the instructions, maybe I can take a look, I'm not very good at that
stuff but I can always pass it along.

The distrubitor isn't leaking at all, he said that there is a pin that alows
a plate of some kind to move (sorry for being so general but I'm pretty bad
at this stuff at the moment) and the pin is bent out of shape, what happnes
is when the car starts it could be cold or hot and the car will start fine
but once you push the gas and let of the clutch the car will hesitate. If
you rev the engine it smooths out, if I don't rev it it will stall. It did
it with both tranny set ups.



Thanks,

Darryl VIN 5898





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Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 01:18:12 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: a few nit picks


Darryl:
 As mentioned the rear main seal may be bad and should be replaced when the
trans comes out. I put them with my kits. Make sure the oil drain plug is
sealed properly and the pan gasket is not leaking.
As far as the alternator light coming on, tighten the belt a little, it
sounds like it's slipping. If the light still comes on, then the regulator
and application of compatibility may come into play. Also you may want to
add a small ground wire if after tightening the belt the light still comes
on.
The fuel distributor normally won't work good one day and bad the next. You
need to call me about that and I can help you straighten it out.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: mydmc5898 [mailto:mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 9:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] a few nit picks

Hi everyone I recently changed the automatic toa 5-speed and have a
few questions.
First one is I have a small tranny leak nothing big. What happens
wether I drive it or not a small puddle forms under the car, maybe
about a hand size. Its been doing this for about three weeks now. My
mechanic said he saw it in the shop but didn't get to look at it
just then. He suggested that it may clear its self up. Just wanted
to know if it may do this or not, I have been watching it and he
said to call him if it gets worse.
My next question is when I'm
driving the car if I don't shift quick enough at say first gear my
battery lite comes on. It has a brand new alternator which is an
upgraded GM one. It also flickers on and off when whithin the first
maybe 5 min on the road. It also does when I hit around 75-85 mph.
If I hit 85 it stays on until I let the car slow down a bit. The car
acts normal other then the cd player skipping on the first one or
two times. It did this when the automatic was put in also.

And the last question is my fuel distrubitor was recamended by my
mechainc to replace it, I wanted to do so and it was ready to be
done until the tranny went. At the moment my funds for the car are
gone:( I have to wait and build them back up. But what it may do is











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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:06:01 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Replacing Reverse Light Switch



Hi All,

I'm in the process of replacing my reverse light switch on the 
transmission and had a couple of questions.  I have never replaced 
this before so I'm looking for some tips.  Mine seems to be rusted 
on there pretty good and I'm having difficulty getting it off.  If I 
use a rust penetrator and let it sit for awhile would it hurt 
anything on the transmission?  Also, there is a rubber boot that 
fits over the switch - mine is in good condition considering the age 
but should I also seal the boot with something else to prevent water 
from getting in?  

Thanks!
Greg L.
#6840








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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:10:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder


 
I always just put the drink between me and the console, behind the seatbelt.  With my seatbelt on, it never can tip over and can accomodate almost any size.
 
Jake
1063


Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:


If you are like me you really would like a decent cup holder for the
DeLorean. Afterall its not practical to lug around a friend everytime
you need someone to hold your drink. I also couldn't justify spending
nearly $100 on a cup holder sold by a vendor. I did a search on


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:46:52 -0800 (PST)
From: david a <david1fa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Monster Nation - Rich W.'s Delorean Projects (Jan. 2005)




d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net> wrote:



FYI - Just another last minute reminder for those of you who want
to watch or record the show. The debut is tomorrow, Jan. 6, 2005.

Other details about this episode I have found out by searching on
the web include a "team build" of a LazyBoy Recliner Hovercraft
and scenes from Nitrous Street Car Brawl at Great Lakes Dragway,
with appearences by the Chicago Wise Guys race team.

Since I also displayed my BTTF prop car for the show, you can see
more details about the show and some behind the scenes photos at
BTTF.com, since Stephen Clark was nice enough to do a short write
up about my projects in the upcoming show. Check it out.

Later,
Rich W.


> Current Discovery Channel broadcast schedule for Monster Nation
> #28. Looks like there are three chances to see it or record it.
> 
> Jan 06 2005 _at_dml_ 08:00 PM Eastern Monster Nation Episode 28 
> 
> Jan 06 2005 _at_dml_ 11:00 PM Eastern Monster Nation Episode 28 
> 
> Jan 24 2005 _at_dml_ 05:00 PM Eastern Monster Nation Episode 28 
> 
> As with my previous posts (with disclaimer), check local listings
> or the DC website the day of the broadcasts, to check for changes.
> 
> Thanks,
> Rich W.
> 

attention anybody who reads this my name is david 20 m wisconsin it has been my dream sence i was in diapers to one day own a delorean and i just cant stand to see anymore destroyed that mg episode was a total waste in my opinion why must these guys who got lots of cash buy these beauitiful autos and destroy them i could understand better if they were more mass produced but please there seems to be fewer out there every day there is no need to wreck such a beauitiful car in such a careless and greedy fashion i've been saving for one for years now and by the time i get enough to purchase one there probily wont be any left! please guys quit killing them show a little courtesy to the next gen of delorean owners if john z delorean wanted hovercrafts he would have built them in the first place if there is anybody else out there who feels this way please write me at david1fa_at_dml_yahoo.com









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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 10:11:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cheap and Affordable Cup Holder


I kid you not, I have the exact same cupholders in my
car.  Someone before me had installed them at the
driver side-wall near the e-brake.  I agree; they are
EXCELLENT.  Unfortunately, mine just broke at PF 2004
right in my hand due to old old old age.  There wasn't
even a snap - it fell apart without a sound it was so
old.  Now I know where to get new ones.  thanks!!!

Jeremiah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 18:21:37 -0000
From: "delowalk" <delowalk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Prototype 1 is on Ebay.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&rd=1&item=4518870535&category=31830








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:18:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Monster Nation - Rich W.'s Delorean Projects (Jan. 2005)



David,
 
There are thousands of DeLoreans left in the world, and most of the parts you saw were from "destroyed" cars already.  The DeLorean isn't alive, so I don't think you have to worry about killing it.  You've got a lot more research to do before you buy one....
 
When you have the money, you can do whatever you want with your own car!
 
Jake Kamphoefner
001063
 
 

david a <david1fa_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

attention anybody who reads this my name is david 20 m wisconsin it has been my dream sence i was in diapers to one day own a delorean and i just cant stand to see anymore destroyed that mg episode was a total waste in my opinion why must these guys who got lots of cash buy these beauitiful autos and destroy them i could understand better if they were more mass produced but please there seems to be fewer out there every day there is no need to wreck such a beauitiful car in such a careless and greedy fashion i've been saving for one for years now and by the time i get enough to purchase one there probily wont be any left! please guys quit killing them show a little courtesy to the next gen of delorean owners if john z delorean wanted hovercrafts he would have built them in the first place if there is anybody else out there who feels this way please write me at david1fa_at_dml_yahoo.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 13:28:47 -0600
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Piston rings + sleeves


Ahhh.

You see, I have an 1980 Volvo 260 GLE. The problems I had were with it
(Not the DeLorean). After the timing chain broke, I replaced all that
stuff, with the addition of the NEW cams and tensioners. I'm sorry to
have misled you. I didn't know that the DeLorean already had the
modified oil passages and cams.

Nathan

On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 00:19:20 -0500, DMC Joe <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Nathan,
> 
> I respectfully disagree.
> 
> In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one subject
> I've had to repeat over and over.
> Once again, here are the facts.
> 
> The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are related to
> the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were in
> Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to start
> chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam failure at around
> 80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine
> manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil passages
> and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely eliminated the
> earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a
> negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.
> 
> Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a matter of
> fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a DeLorean
> engine.
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> 
> The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently, the cam
> chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to check,
> making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in life. The
> blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.
> 
> The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore to fix.
> And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to the
> front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the tensioners as
> well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on those
> little beasts a whole lot easier.
> 
> When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another engine.
> 
> Nathan Robinson
> 
> Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the Ford
> Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly little
> PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas shortages at
> that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more
> displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the guts (as
> far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.
> 
> Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good thing to
> do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is install
> spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant tubes
> right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you take your
> engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block, (and it
> happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and grab some
> spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most
> everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a far more
> common
> engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.
> 
> Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts, etc...
> is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive, but good
> stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others) prices (and
> photos) of whatever you're looking for.
> Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
> engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm sure
> are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same for that
> particular 260 car. ('80-'85)
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 19:59:15 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Prototype 1 is on Ebay.



All I can say is that looks fishy.  He is posting pictures of pictures
of the car, and he has 0 feedback.  And the specification that the
owner wants someone to have it who will "allow the public to enjoy"
it, seems strange.  Why did he have it locked in his garage for the
past 20 years?  Anyway, I hope this is a real auction and that this
special car has really resurfaced in the world.  I find it hard to
believe that this car is truly for sale, but if it is, I look forward
to seeing it in Chicago '06!

Patrick
1880

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delowalk" <delowalk_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&rd=1&item=4518870535&category=31830








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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