From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2418
Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 3:21 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: proto delorean
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>

2. RE: Alternative fuel
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

3. MG and wrecked D's
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Alternative fuel
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. suites and co joining rooms at PF
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Alternative fuel
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Mid-Atlantic Club Details
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

8. Bosch Fuel Pump Relay Code
From: "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

9. re: A/C Fan
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

10. Hello All New Canadian DeLorean Fan Seeking Help
From: "Ryan hayward" <ryanhayward_at_dml_nl.rogers.com>

11. Re: Door openers and alarm sys
From: "likl3189" <mannyone_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. RE: Replacing Reverse Light Switch
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Re: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Replacing Reverse Light Switch
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. RE: A/C Fan
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. RE: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
From: "Sean Manning" <sean_at_dml_manninghome.net>

19. RE: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

20. RE: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Super Charged PRV
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Anyone planning to attend this car show in SC?
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Super Charged PRV
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Re: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. Connectors Needed
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:05:07 -0600
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: proto delorean


I'm sure more people will chime in on this, but I thought I remembered 
reading the article about this car in Delorean World last summer and sure 
enough, its real. It's owner is Bill Yacobozzi. It states in the article 
that he feels a little guilty about hiding it away for so many years and 
that he would consider selling it to someone who would consider displaying 
it somewhere. He bought it at the Rick Cole Collector Car Auction in Newport 
Beach on 11/25/1984 for $37,000. This isn't some scam, it looks like the 
real deal.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 3:23 PM
Subject: [DML] proto delorean


>
>
> I e-mailed the owner
> I have the same pictures he has of the car and when I asked for more 
> information and if he know Sasha this is all that came back
>
> OWNER RESPONDS....
>
> YES I KNOW HIM. GREAT MAN!
>
> WHAT ELSE WOULD YOU LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT THE CAR?
>
> THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST
>
> I would think the response would have been a bit more informative.
>
> I think I will try to get a hold of Sasha and see if this deal is for 
> real.
>
> Sasha if you monitor this list can you e-mail me
>
> thanks
>
> Ken\
>
> PS if it is for real anyone want to go in with me and get it for the Car 
> Show I am not in a good cash position right now to buy it outright.
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 







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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:43:02 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Alternative fuel


Sounds like the Tilley project.

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: Nun Yah [mailto:joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 3:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Alternative fuel





 I was reading in one of my DeLorean books that Mr. DeLorean was 
working on alternative fuels. I had a brainstorm that I was wanting 
to get some insight on if it is possible. What if someone would take 
the wind farm windmill idea and modified it so it could fit in a car? 
Put some recharchable batteries in the back that start the car and 
the accessories. I know it will take alot of batteries but maybe if 
someone were to make a good design maybe they would not need all the 
batteries. I am woking on a design to post in the photo section.  I 
think it will work but want some educated guesses. It's time to go to 
work so if this is approved by the moderators then I continue from 
there.

   -Josh








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:42:59 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: MG and wrecked D's


Rich wrote 

<<<I did not
intend for the car to be damaged or destroyed, much like VB,
Josh and many others did not intend to wreck their Deloreans
over the years, just in driving them, as they were intended.
(well, except for Josh driving/parking IN the motel room, LOL)>>

Although Josh finds ways to remodel his D on what has been a regular basis, he, with a little help from his friends keep putting it back together.

And I might add it has given me a series of new challenges that have helped me in reconstructing D's.  I like putting the scrap ones back together. 

Josh's D believe it or not is now running the best it has in some time and is in the best condition it has been 

One more wreck and he will be ready for Concours LOL

By the way 

My note:

If there is one job I hate it is replacing the fuel accumulator.
Did one on Bill Millers car last weekend in about 45 minutes (new record for me) but it was a job I hated from the first minute.

Tonight we have an easier job

We are repairing two head gaskets and doing an engine rebuild
Thank God (sorry Marc) for an easy job.

Ken






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:44:01 -0600
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alternative fuel


God I hate to see ths come up again but perhaps you should contact
Tilley.  Hes a raving lunatic but any discussion of an electric
DeLorean will end you up here.

http://www.electrifyingtimes.com/delorean_ev.html

http://www.tilleyfoundation.com/

The first article is the best for its horrid journalism.  Did you know
the DeLorean was never designed to withstand the uneven stress of a
curved track like the Nashville Speedway.  Especially at a blistering
90MPH 23 mile marathon.  Oops.  I'm editorialising.

Jeff 
#10544  

On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 21:34:28 -0000, Nun Yah <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I was reading in one of my DeLorean books that Mr. DeLorean was
> working on alternative fuels. I had a brainstorm that I was wanting
> to get some insight on if it is possible. What if someone would take
> the wind farm windmill idea and modified it so it could fit in a car?
> Put some recharchable batteries in the back that start the car and
> the accessories. I know it will take alot of batteries but maybe if
> someone were to make a good design maybe they would not need all the
> batteries. I am woking on a design to post in the photo section.  I
> think it will work but want some educated guesses. It's time to go to
> work so if this is approved by the moderators then I continue from
> there.
> 
>   -Josh
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 17:48:54 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: suites and co joining rooms at PF


Hi
There was an e-mail the other day saying that if you have a large party that there are no rooms for a large group
PR has some rooms that are at different price ranges and can accommodate up to 6 in a room or 8 between co joining rooms
Due to the arrangements I did not reserve any of these as they were not included im my discout
If you want a room call Pheasant run and ask for reservations and you can ask for Margaret although any of the reservationists there can help you.

Ken





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:52:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Alternative fuel


Your talking about installing a windmill on a car??

Perpetual motion, from wind?  Consider the loss of
energy in the system and you Will realize it is not
possible.

For example, the conversion of energy from one form to
another is not 100% efficient.  Factors like friction
and heat will always eat it up.  As long as the entire
system is less than 100% efficient, it will always
need energy from some outside source.


--- Nun Yah <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
>  I was reading in one of my DeLorean books that Mr.
> DeLorean was 
> working on alternative fuels. I had a brainstorm
> that I was wanting 
> to get some insight on if it is possible. What if
> someone would take 
> the wind farm windmill idea and modified it so it
> could fit in a car? 
> Put some recharchable batteries in the back that
> start the car and 
> the accessories. I know it will take alot of
> batteries but maybe if 
> someone were to make a good design maybe they would
> not need all the 
> batteries. I am woking on a design to post in the
> photo section.  I 
> think it will work but want some educated guesses.
> It's time to go to 
> work so if this is approved by the moderators then I
> continue from 
> there.
> 
>    -Josh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
All your favorites on one personal page  Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 20:09:41 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Club Details


Mark your calendars!  The Mid-Atlantic club 2005 Spring social will be 
held in Hackettstown, NJ. April 23rd 

Tech sessions, door adjustments, food, music, prizes, and much much more!

Details coming soon!!!!







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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 01:16:46 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Bosch Fuel Pump Relay Code



Hi everyone

Does anyone know the code for the fuel pump relay, the large black 
one under the door lock module.....

Any help most welcome!!

Alistair McCann
VIN# PILOT25








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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 20:42:09 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: re: A/C Fan


 
 
Elvis, 
 
I measure 14.8 Amps with an occasional blip to 15. (Engine running)
 
Can somebody tell me exactly how many Amps the
interior fan (A/C-Fan)  draws on max speed ?

(Can't measure it on mine because it's stored for  
the winter)

D & 6530 and its 2700 ohm resistor!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:21:15 -0000
From: "Ryan hayward" <ryanhayward_at_dml_nl.rogers.com>
Subject: Hello All New Canadian DeLorean Fan Seeking Help



Hello All

Thank you for reading my post! I am currently a student in Memorial
University in St. John's Newfoundland Canada and I need some help. I
really want to locate a project car some where in my area I am not
able to afford a very expensive DeLoreon and it will take me some
time, up to a year to allocate all the funds needed to buy and
ship/drive the car back to my home town. If anyone knows of a car or
someone who can help me who lives in eastern Canada that would be great! 

Thanks a bunch

-Ryan Hayward 









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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 03:01:57 -0000
From: "likl3189" <mannyone_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Door openers and alarm sys



No
You pull out the male pins from the connector and plug in the provided
connector on the pin so you can put everything back to original if
you want to.
Manny  Vin 20020
  
> 
> Did this system require cutting or destruction of the original 
wiring
> harness?
> 
> JEff
> #10544








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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 04:29:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems



I respectfully disagree with your disagreement:

- I have two notebooks of Volvo B27-B28 factory literature spanning
1979-1985, none of which contains a single word about modified oil
passages or different camshaft materials.
- The only Volvo TSB dealing with PRV camshaft wear (#21112 4/84)
addresses the problem in terms lighter oil viscosity specification,
retroactive to the beginning of engine use, not enlarging oil passages
or replacing early camshafts with later models.
- The oil passage/camshaft rumor periodically rears it head in BBS's
such as swedishbricks.com and brickboard.com, only to be discredited
by Volvo owners themselves. Note that some of these owners have
enlarged oil return passages of their own volition (others claim that
lighter oil alone solves the problem).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
>  Nathan,
> 
> I respectfully disagree.
> 
> In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one
subject
> I've had to repeat over and over.
> Once again, here are the facts.
> 
> The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are
related to
> the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were in
> Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to start
> chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam failure at
around
> 80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine
> manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil
passages
> and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely
eliminated the
> earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a
> negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.
> 
> Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a
matter of
> fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a
DeLorean
> engine. 
> 
> DMC Joe  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...] 
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> 
> 
> 
> The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently,
the cam
> chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to
check,
> making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in
life. The
> blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.
> 
> The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore
to fix.
> And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to the
> front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
tensioners as
> well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on
those
> little beasts a whole lot easier.
> 
> When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
engine.
> 
> Nathan Robinson
> 
> 
> Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the
Ford
> Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly little
> PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas
shortages at
> that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more
> displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the
guts (as
> far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.
> 
> Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good
thing to
> do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is
install
> spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant
tubes
> right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you
take your
> engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block,
(and it
> happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and
grab some
> spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most
> everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a
far more
> common
> engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.
> 
> Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts,
etc...
> is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive,
but good
> stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others)
prices (and
> photos) of whatever you're looking for.
> Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
> engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm
sure
> are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same
for that
> particular 260 car. ('80-'85)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 04:48:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay



I am going to make a guess here but I bet you have a 5-speed. If I am
right then the "unknown connector" is only used in the automatic. It
is for the forced downshift at W.O.T. It would connect to a micro
switch that is activated when the throttle is full open (Wide Open
Thottle). It would be stacked next to the other micro for the Lambda
system. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I've created an album for #10544 and put in a few pics.  (Anyone know
> why it says I've used 30 M of space when I've only 2 M of photos in
> there?)
> 
> Please take a look at the picture called Unknown Connector.  Its 2
> wires (one is black with a slate stripe) near the Idle Microswitch and
> WOT switch.  The go into a black connector but theres nothing there to
> connect to.
> 
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=Unknown+connector.jpg
> 
> Another pic is called Ungrounded.  Its a ground wire on the coil
> resistor plate that isn't long enough to connect to anythere.  Where
> should it go so I can splice a fix in to it.
> 
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=UnGrounded.jpg
> 
> Any advice would be nice.  Finally I posted pics of my fixed
> cross-over pipr with a modern flex portion.  The flex piece cost about
> $15 from Napa and the labor wasn't bad either.  Much improved over my
> original that cracked and was leaking, plus a LOT cheaper thana  new
> pipe.
> 
> Jeff 
> #10544








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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 22:54:31 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Replacing Reverse Light Switch


Greg,
Penetrating fluid would not hurt anything, but mother nature with dust and
dirt will leach back in over the years. The switch is beveled so when it is
tightened down it seats a little different than a normal bolt. You might
want to put a 16mm crush washer of a soft copper to help seal the threads.
Then you need to check and make sure the washer didn't change the light
coming on by changing the depth of the switch. You might also want to use
some electrical grease on the contacts.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: gjl463 [mailto:gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 11:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Replacing Reverse Light Switch





Hi All,

I'm in the process of replacing my reverse light switch on the
transmission and had a couple of questions.  I have never replaced
this before so I'm looking for some tips.  Mine seems to be rusted
on there pretty good and I'm having difficulty getting it off.  If I
use a rust penetrator and let it sit for awhile would it hurt
anything on the transmission?  Also, there is a rubber boot that
fits over the switch - mine is in good condition considering the age
but should I also seal the boot with something else to prevent water
from getting in?

Thanks!
Greg L.
#6840








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 04:54:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay



"Ungrounded" is indeed ungrounded. That wire was cut short and had a
non-origional connector crimped on. Make a new wire up and one end
goes under the screw on the plate as in the picture and the other end
goes to the intake manifold and grounds that plate to the motor. BTW
the loose "unknown connector" plug slips together with the white
plastic plug. There should not be any loose wires around the top of
the motor, especailly where they could get caught in the throttle
linkage. Strap-tie everything nice and tight and neat.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I've created an album for #10544 and put in a few pics.  (Anyone know
> why it says I've used 30 M of space when I've only 2 M of photos in
> there?)
> 
> Please take a look at the picture called Unknown Connector.  Its 2
> wires (one is black with a slate stripe) near the Idle Microswitch and
> WOT switch.  The go into a black connector but theres nothing there to
> connect to.
> 
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=Unknown+connector.jpg
> 
> Another pic is called Ungrounded.  Its a ground wire on the coil
> resistor plate that isn't long enough to connect to anythere.  Where
> should it go so I can splice a fix in to it.
> 
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=UnGrounded.jpg
> 
> Any advice would be nice.  Finally I posted pics of my fixed
> cross-over pipr with a modern flex portion.  The flex piece cost about
> $15 from Napa and the labor wasn't bad either.  Much improved over my
> original that cracked and was leaking, plus a LOT cheaper thana  new
> pipe.
> 
> Jeff 
> #10544








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 05:00:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Reverse Light Switch



Use a bigger wrench and put some effort into it. It can be on there
tight but it should come loose. Make sure you are pulling in the right
direction (counterclockwise looking end-on) and use the correct size
wrench with maybe a "cheater bar". It IS a right-hand thread. Test it
BEFORE removing. Use a continuity tester or ohmmeter and shift into
reverse. Just clean up the boot, the connectors, and the wiring and do
not seal it. Penetrating oil is not going to help you get it off, it
is just tight.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm in the process of replacing my reverse light switch on the 
> transmission and had a couple of questions.  I have never replaced 
> this before so I'm looking for some tips.  Mine seems to be rusted 
> on there pretty good and I'm having difficulty getting it off.  If I 
> use a rust penetrator and let it sit for awhile would it hurt 
> anything on the transmission?  Also, there is a rubber boot that 
> fits over the switch - mine is in good condition considering the age 
> but should I also seal the boot with something else to prevent water 
> from getting in?  
> 
> Thanks!
> Greg L.
> #6840








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 23:14:31 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: A/C Fan


Elvis,
I can tell you this. On the bench with a new blower motor w/out the squirrel
cage on is about 10 amps. With the cage on is 30 amps.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Elvis Nocita [mailto:elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 3:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] A/C Fan




Can somebody tell me exactly how many Amps the
interior fan (A/C-Fan) draws on max speed ?

(Can't measure it on mine because it's stored for
the winter)

Elvis





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 23:15:24 -0800
From: "Sean Manning" <sean_at_dml_manninghome.net>
Subject: RE: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems


There seems to be another one according to Alldata:

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/64/82641119.html


Bulletins for 1982 Volvo 260 V6-2849cc 2.8L SOHC B28F

TSB Number   Issue Date  TSB Title
21105          OCT 84       Engine - Camshaft/Rocker Arm Wear

Do you have the text for that TSB?  Thanks.

Sean


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 8:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems




I respectfully disagree with your disagreement:

- I have two notebooks of Volvo B27-B28 factory literature spanning
1979-1985, none of which contains a single word about modified oil
passages or different camshaft materials.
- The only Volvo TSB dealing with PRV camshaft wear (#21112 4/84)
addresses the problem in terms lighter oil viscosity specification,
retroactive to the beginning of engine use, not enlarging oil passages
or replacing early camshafts with later models.
- The oil passage/camshaft rumor periodically rears it head in BBS's
such as swedishbricks.com and brickboard.com, only to be discredited
by Volvo owners themselves. Note that some of these owners have
enlarged oil return passages of their own volition (others claim that
lighter oil alone solves the problem).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
>  Nathan,
> 
> I respectfully disagree.
> 
> In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one
subject
> I've had to repeat over and over.
> Once again, here are the facts.
> 
> The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are
related to
> the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were in
> Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to start
> chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam failure at
around
> 80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine
> manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil
passages
> and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely
eliminated the
> earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a
> negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.
> 
> Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a
matter of
> fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a
DeLorean
> engine. 
> 
> DMC Joe  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...] 
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> 
> 
> 
> The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently,
the cam
> chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to
check,
> making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in
life. The
> blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.
> 
> The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore
to fix.
> And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to the
> front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
tensioners as
> well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on
those
> little beasts a whole lot easier.
> 
> When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
engine.
> 
> Nathan Robinson
> 
> 
> Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the
Ford
> Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly little
> PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas
shortages at
> that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more
> displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the
guts (as
> far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.
> 
> Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good
thing to
> do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is
install
> spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant
tubes
> right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you
take your
> engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block,
(and it
> happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and
grab some
> spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most
> everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a
far more
> common
> engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.
> 
> Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts,
etc...
> is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive,
but good
> stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others)
prices (and
> photos) of whatever you're looking for.
> Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
> engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm
sure
> are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same
for that
> particular 260 car. ('80-'85)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:26:05 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems


Bill,

Thanks for your response. Concerning camshaft up grades in the post 1980
B28F engines here is information from my PRV-6 B28F library. Referring to
the Hanes Volvo 260 Series Manuel ISBN 1 85010 287 2 Chapter 13 Supplement
Revisions P-247 Section 3 reads: "On some 1980 and all 1981 and 1982 models
new camshafts have been installed". Illustration 13.1 indicates the new LH
camshaft as #7401269616 and RH camshaft as #7401269615. I also have
additional first hand experience on this subject.

Back in 1989 I purchased a Volvo 260 GLE with the B-28F strictly for
research proposes. At 64k miles the car was in great shape except for
excessive valve chatter. As you well know valve noise in these engines is
not uncommon. As the miles increased so did the valve noise level. I decided
I would go ahead and perform a valve adjustment but when I removed the valve
covers I noticed that the rear oil passages had a much lower oil flow volume
compared to the front, I also observed discoloration of the camshaft lobes
in that area. I in turn called an associate of mine who owns Volset Service,
a Volvo engine service facility in Atlanta. He told me that this was a
common problem and he had observed the same condition in many other B-28F's
of that era. Keep in mind that by that time I had already racked up over 60k
miles on my DeLorean. I was also several years into servicing DeLorean's at
DeLorean Services and was wondering why I had not seen this premature
camshaft ware problem in any DeLorean's.

About a year or so later, at 83K miles, my 260 GLE seized up from a chewed
up camshaft. As time passed my Volvo associate commented that it was obvious
to him that a modification was made to either the valve train oil system or
camshafts because he was no longer seeing the problem in 1981 and later
B-28F's. When I retired my DeLorean engine at over 260k miles the valve
train was still in good shape. Currently we have many DeLorean's with over
100k miles, several at 200k, and a couple at 300k. With these facts in mind,
although there is no factory documentation concerning modification of the
oil passages, something obviously changed in the post 1980 B-28F's. 

FYI: In addition to two DeLorean's I also own a 1989 Volvo 760 GLE (very
rare) with 193k on the clock and still running like new.

DMC Joe      

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 11:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems




I respectfully disagree with your disagreement:

- I have two notebooks of Volvo B27-B28 factory literature spanning
1979-1985, none of which contains a single word about modified oil passages
or different camshaft materials.
- The only Volvo TSB dealing with PRV camshaft wear (#21112 4/84) addresses
the problem in terms lighter oil viscosity specification, retroactive to the
beginning of engine use, not enlarging oil passages or replacing early
camshafts with later models.
- The oil passage/camshaft rumor periodically rears it head in BBS's such as
swedishbricks.com and brickboard.com, only to be discredited by Volvo owners
themselves. Note that some of these owners have enlarged oil return passages
of their own volition (others claim that lighter oil alone solves the
problem).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
>  Nathan,
> 
> I respectfully disagree.
> 
> In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one
subject
> I've had to repeat over and over.
> Once again, here are the facts.
> 
> The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are
related to
> the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were 
> in Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to 
> start chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam 
> failure at
around
> 80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine 
> manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil
passages
> and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely
eliminated the
> earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a 
> negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.
> 
> Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a
matter of
> fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a
DeLorean
> engine. 
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...]
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> 
> 
> 
> The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently,
the cam
> chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to
check,
> making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in
life. The
> blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.
> 
> The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain 
> thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore
to fix.
> And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to 
> the front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
tensioners as
> well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on
those
> little beasts a whole lot easier.
> 
> When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
engine.
> 
> Nathan Robinson
> 
> 
> Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the
Ford
> Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly 
> little PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas
shortages at
> that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more 
> displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the
guts (as
> far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.
> 
> Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good
thing to
> do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is
install
> spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant
tubes
> right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you
take your
> engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block,
(and it
> happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and
grab some
> spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most 
> everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a
far more
> common
> engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.
> 
> Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts,
etc...
> is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive,
but good
> stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others)
prices (and
> photos) of whatever you're looking for.
> Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
> engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm
sure
> are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same
for that
> particular 260 car. ('80-'85)
> 
> 
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:26:05 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Unidentified Connectors in engine bay


Jeff,

Thanks for the detailed pictures; makes diagnostics easy.

The "Unknown Connector" is for the auto trans kick-down switch which is not
used on manual transmission cars.

The "Ungrounded" is not original and was probably added by a previous owner
for an accessory. It appears to have no function.

DMC Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Phillips [mailto:rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Unidentified Connectors in engine bay



I've created an album for #10544 and put in a few pics.  (Anyone know why it
says I've used 30 M of space when I've only 2 M of photos in
there?)

Please take a look at the picture called Unknown Connector.  Its 2 wires
(one is black with a slate stripe) near the Idle Microswitch and WOT switch.
The go into a black connector but theres nothing there to connect to.

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=Unknown
+connector.jpg

Another pic is called Ungrounded.  Its a ground wire on the coil resistor
plate that isn't long enough to connect to anythere.  Where should it go so
I can splice a fix in to it.

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/%2310544&.dnm=UnGroun
ded.jpg

Any advice would be nice.  Finally I posted pics of my fixed cross-over pipr
with a modern flex portion.  The flex piece cost about
$15 from Napa and the labor wasn't bad either.  Much improved over my
original that cracked and was leaking, plus a LOT cheaper thana  new pipe.

Jeff
#10544











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 14:04:02 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Super Charged PRV



I was browsing some of the photos in my collection and came across a
photo I have of a huge belt driven super charger on a PRV.
Does anyone know anything about this?
I would like to know how well it works, how much it costs and
how hard it was to do.
It looks like they had to move the water bottle...
Thanks.
- Videobob










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 15:02:41 -0000
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Anyone planning to attend this car show in SC?



http://www.motortrendautoshows.com/greenvl/
 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:06:16 -0600
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Super Charged PRV


I would also be interested in the details of how this was accomplished.


Nathan


On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 14:04:02 -0000, Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I was browsing some of the photos in my collection and came across a
> photo I have of a huge belt driven super charger on a PRV.
> Does anyone know anything about this?
> I would like to know how well it works, how much it costs and
> how hard it was to do.
> It looks like they had to move the water bottle...
> Thanks.
> - Videobob
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:16:16 -0600
From: Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems


I would agree with DMC Joe on this one, as what he described was
exactly what happened with my car (1980 260 GLE) which is all but
non-existant now because of the problems he mentioned. However,
concerning the cam tensioners/guides, when I went to order new ones
(based on the part # from my microfiche) I was told by a Volvo dealer
that that it was obsolete and a new part had replaced it. We asked
why, and he told me that there was problems concerning the smaller oil
passages in the cam chain tensioners and that for the new ones, the
oil passages were enlarged.

Nathan


On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 02:26:05 -0500, DMC Joe <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Thanks for your response. Concerning camshaft up grades in the post 1980
> B28F engines here is information from my PRV-6 B28F library. Referring to
> the Hanes Volvo 260 Series Manuel ISBN 1 85010 287 2 Chapter 13 Supplement
> Revisions P-247 Section 3 reads: "On some 1980 and all 1981 and 1982 models
> new camshafts have been installed". Illustration 13.1 indicates the new LH
> camshaft as #7401269616 and RH camshaft as #7401269615. I also have
> additional first hand experience on this subject.
> 
> Back in 1989 I purchased a Volvo 260 GLE with the B-28F strictly for
> research proposes. At 64k miles the car was in great shape except for
> excessive valve chatter. As you well know valve noise in these engines is
> not uncommon. As the miles increased so did the valve noise level. I decided
> I would go ahead and perform a valve adjustment but when I removed the valve
> covers I noticed that the rear oil passages had a much lower oil flow volume
> compared to the front, I also observed discoloration of the camshaft lobes
> in that area. I in turn called an associate of mine who owns Volset Service,
> a Volvo engine service facility in Atlanta. He told me that this was a
> common problem and he had observed the same condition in many other B-28F's
> of that era. Keep in mind that by that time I had already racked up over 60k
> miles on my DeLorean. I was also several years into servicing DeLorean's at
> DeLorean Services and was wondering why I had not seen this premature
> camshaft ware problem in any DeLorean's.
> 
> About a year or so later, at 83K miles, my 260 GLE seized up from a chewed
> up camshaft. As time passed my Volvo associate commented that it was obvious
> to him that a modification was made to either the valve train oil system or
> camshafts because he was no longer seeing the problem in 1981 and later
> B-28F's. When I retired my DeLorean engine at over 260k miles the valve
> train was still in good shape. Currently we have many DeLorean's with over
> 100k miles, several at 200k, and a couple at 300k. With these facts in mind,
> although there is no factory documentation concerning modification of the
> oil passages, something obviously changed in the post 1980 B-28F's.
> 
> FYI: In addition to two DeLorean's I also own a 1989 Volvo 760 GLE (very
> rare) with 193k on the clock and still running like new.
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 11:30 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
> 
> I respectfully disagree with your disagreement:
> 
> - I have two notebooks of Volvo B27-B28 factory literature spanning
> 1979-1985, none of which contains a single word about modified oil passages
> or different camshaft materials.
> - The only Volvo TSB dealing with PRV camshaft wear (#21112 4/84) addresses
> the problem in terms lighter oil viscosity specification, retroactive to the
> beginning of engine use, not enlarging oil passages or replacing early
> camshafts with later models.
> - The oil passage/camshaft rumor periodically rears it head in BBS's such as
> swedishbricks.com and brickboard.com, only to be discredited by Volvo owners
> themselves. Note that some of these owners have enlarged oil return passages
> of their own volition (others claim that lighter oil alone solves the
> problem).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> >
> >  Nathan,
> >
> > I respectfully disagree.
> >
> > In my 30 years of DeLorean consulting and servicing this is the one
> subject
> > I've had to repeat over and over.
> > Once again, here are the facts.
> >
> > The valve train oiling problems and early camshaft failure are
> related to
> > the pre 1981 version of the PRV-6. The majority of these engines were
> > in Volvo 260 GLE's. It was not uncommon for these pre 81 Volvo's to
> > start chattering at around 40-50k miles with complete valve/cam
> > failure at
> around
> > 80-90k miles. As these failures mounted the engineers at the engine
> > manufacturing plant initiated a modification that enlarged the oil
> passages
> > and specified a harder camshaft. This modification completely
> eliminated the
> > earlier problems. This is one of the reasons why the DeLorean gained a
> > negative opinion among mechanics when the DeLorean was first introduced.
> >
> > Your experience with cam chain problems is extremely rare. As a
> matter of
> > fact it is the first time I have ever heard of this problem in a
> DeLorean
> > engine.
> >
> > DMC Joe
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Nathan Robinson [mailto:nathanrobinson_at_dml_g...]
> > Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:35 PM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> >
> >
> >
> > The PRV-6 engine had problems with oil delivery, and consequently,
> the cam
> > chains wore like a mofo. Also, the cam chain tensioners are hard to
> check,
> > making the engine (you guessed it) develop problems 'later on' in
> life. The
> > blowing up bit I can only imagine is what happened to me.
> >
> > The cam chains wore considerably and broke prematurely. A borked chain
> > thrashing around at the front of the engine cover is quite a chore
> to fix.
> > And expensive. The 'new' cam tensioners and my dad's modification to
> > the front of the timing cover (and also scoring depth marks on the
> tensioners as
> > well - so we can tell how worn the chains are) makes checking up on
> those
> > little beasts a whole lot easier.
> >
> > When those chains break, it's generally cheaper to just find another
> engine.
> >
> > Nathan Robinson
> >
> >
> > Note: On different odds and ends, an interesting tid-bit is that the
> Ford
> > Triton V8 and V10 are also very similar engines to our squirrelly
> > little PRV-6, which was initially slated by P,R,V to be a V8, but gas
> shortages at
> > that time changed their mind. While the Triton engines have more
> > displacement and more cylinders and more electronics, however the
> guts (as
> > far as I can tell from visiting junkyards) look to be the same.
> >
> > Also, (I don't know if this has been mentioned before) another good
> thing to
> > do if you're having problems keeping antifreeze in the system, is
> install
> > spring clamps (instead of those screw clamps) on the engine coolant
> tubes
> > right under the intake manifold. (there are two IIRC) If (when you
> take your
> > engine apart) there is antifreeze on the top of your engine block,
> (and it
> > happens to make a mess when it gets there) run to the junkyard and
> grab some
> > spring clamps off a triton engine (which just so happens to have most
> > everything in the same spot, and the same size, and happens to be a
> far more
> > common
> > engine) and it will fix the leaking antifreeze.
> >
> > Also, (Boy.. i'm on a roll here) another place to get engine parts,
> etc...
> > is www.ipdusa.com and www.swedishparts.net. IPD is a tad expensive,
> but good
> > stuff, and www.swedishparts.net had dirt cheap (OEM and others)
> prices (and
> > photos) of whatever you're looking for.
> > Just remember the same engine (based on the research I've done on the
> > engine) is on a '80 - '82 Volvo 260 series car. (Different 250's I'm
> sure
> > are similar as well, but the engine production years are the same
> for that
> > particular 260 car. ('80-'85)
> >
> >
> >
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:40:13 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Connectors Needed


 I am looking for a set of connectors (male and female) of the type that is 
used on the ignition pickup coil.  If anyone has a scrapped set that they are 
willing to part with please contact me off list.

Thank you,

D & 6530 still smooth with that 2.7k resistor. Yes, but why?





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