From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2424
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2005 9:09 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. PROTO1 CONTACT SETUP
From: "dmcproto1" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Re: Opinions on this car?
From: "istewart88" <istewart88_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. Re: Opinions on this car?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: Re: Opinions on this car?
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

6. Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

7. More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>

10. Best way to sell?
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. rough running
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Engine spotted
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. !!!(For the owner of Proto1)!!!
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

15. Continued: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Opinions on this car?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. Re: Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Re: Best way to sell?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. RE: Super Charged/EFI
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. RE: rough running
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. RE: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: jvdmc12_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 23:32:43 -0000
From: "dmcproto1" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: PROTO1 CONTACT SETUP


Hi all,

 It has been a bit hard to get back to all of you that have sent
e-mail since that LP1121XXX was my Vintage Lamborghini Yahoo ID that I
never use. So I set up this one so I can get all the Proto-1 e-mail's
in one place and answer them as they come in and as time permits. If I
missed someone please send it here or to DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com (DMCPROTO1(AT)aol.com) I want to return all e-mail so please don't be offended if I missed or forgot which ones I respoded to or not on my old Yahoo ID.

Thanks again,
Tony Ierardi








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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 23:55:05 -0000
From: "istewart88" <istewart88_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Opinions on this car?



Thanks, I'll be sure to check all those out. I'm probably going to be printing out yours and 
a couple other messages, as well as some stuff from the DMCNews website, to take with 
me when I go to look at the car on Sunday. The reason I place significance on the CA plate 
is that it's a blue/yellow CA plate of early-80's vintage, so it's possible that the car's been 
here all its life. But then, there was a pretty bad flood here in the area in 1997 (not to 
mention one near Sacramento just last year) so that doesn't rule out flood car. I'm hoping 
the guy will be straightforward with me about the salvage title, so we'll see. Salvage titles 
can come up for strange reasons too; apparently that '74 Bus I mentioned was just 
abandoned on the street, so after a certain amount of time the local authorities hauled it 
off.

I probably won't end up getting this particular car anyway, since I'd rather not deal 
through eBay if the car's local, especially since the price may get driven way up. The 
biggest reason I wanna talk to this guy is, as I've mentioned before, this is the third DMC 
he's posted in the past couple weeks. Perhaps he's got something that would take a little 
more work but cost less up front. (Of course, if it's less expensive, I probably don't want it, 
but that's a whole 'nother can of worms you guys have probably opened many times 
before with other n00bs like me...)

Ian

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Just because it has a CA plate doesn't rule out that it is not flood
> car. Get the history and find out WHY it is a salvage title. It isn't
> obvious from it's description and the lack of serious damage. Cars get
> a salvage title when an insurance company decides it will cost more to
> fix it than it is worth. Things to look for:
> Odors or smells in the passenger compartment
> Moisture on the inside of the glass and/or mold
> Watermarks or stains
> Rusty hardware inside the passenger compartment
> Loose epoxy on the frame and/or large areas of heavy rust or missing
> metal in the front crumple zone or the engine mounting area
> Bent parts underneath the car like the frame, control arms, brackets, etc.
> Your best bet is to get someone who has some familiarity with a
> Delorean and get it up on a lift. The real money is spent underneath
> the shiny Stainless Steel body panels. Not all that long ago there
> were a lot of new cars flooded in the South. TV news shows warned
> people in the Northeast that New Car Dealers cleaned these cars up and
> shipped them to other dealers in the Northeast where flood cars were
> not expected. On modern cars when they are flooded past the rockers
> they are automatically totaled. With all of the wiring and connectors
> and computers once they get wet they are never right again. Do your
> homework and you will find out either this car is a bargain with some
> problems or maybe you will want to pass on this one. Just because it
> is close to you don't overpay for it. There are plenty of Deloreans,
> keep looking and you will find the "right" one.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757









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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 23:55:28 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze



Mike - In addition to all the great advice you have already received 
on this question, I wanted to add the following:  We have a little 
add-on convenience kit that facilitates bleeding the air out of the 
radiator without all the mess that is usually associated with that 
procedure.  We also have the complete lower hose kits and self-
bleeder kits and such to make sure that your cooling system is in top 
condition.  As an aside, if you replace the lower hose sections as 
part of your maintenance, make sure to inspect the areas of the 
aluminum pipes where the old rubber hose was to make sure that there 
is no corrosion that has penetrated the pipe.  I would recommend 
cleaning the areas with Scotchbrite or sandpaper, and then applying a 
couple of coats of good primer to protect the aluminum.  Just wanted 
to raise awareness a notch or two, as we have seen many examples of 
pipes with pinhole penetrations.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike.  There's a few things you gotta do: remove the lower hose 
at the engine on the right side and drain from there.  If you have the
> upgraded metal radiator, you should have a petcock drain you can
> unscrew.  Otherwise, remove the lower hose on the radiator.
> 
> I recommend you flush the system thouroughly including the heater
> core.  The two hoses going to it are inside the spare tire access
> panel on the right.
> 
> To drain and flush faster, you can remove the plugs on each side of
> the engine block.
> 
> When you replace the fluid, don't forget to bleed the air out both 
at the engine and at the radiator.  The easist way is to use a 
pressure tester at LOW pressure.  Be very careful at the radiator.  
If you are using a stock rad, the bleed hose is attched at the upper 
right and is fitted onto a plastic connector.  If you are not gentle, 
you will break it off and a new radiator is in your near future.
> 









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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:00:37 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Opinions on this car?



That's one of those things that depends where you live. 

I own a car (not a DeLorean!) that had a Reconstructed title. Before 
that it had a Salvage title. This means that the car was totaled, 
brought back to life (in this case by being "clipped" i.e. made from 
two cars), re-inspected and titled as "reconstructed". The 
interesting part about this is that by transferring such titles thru 
different states, you can often lose the "reconstructed" status. Mine 
is like that. The title I now hold looks perfectly clean. But if you 
look in Carfax it's still there. 

Again - this is like asking insurance questions, there are no uniform 
rules across the country/around the world. 

The status of the title means nothing, what counts is what condition 
the car is in, although like Mike mentioned future owners may be 
skittish about such titles. It's not a big deal if you plan to own 
the car forever or until it depreciates to nothing. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have any opinion of "reconstructed" titles?
> 
> I purchased my "D" from an owner in Maryland who had purchased it 
from an
> owner in Pennsylvania.  When I re-registered the car in 
Pennsylvania, the
> title came back as "reconstructed".  Sometime in it's past it had 
been hit
> in the right front.  Since I have owned it, I have gotten a clean 
bill of
> health from Rob Grady.
> 
> Brent Lundgren
> VIN #17006 (SS Louvers)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mike.griese_at_dml_w...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Opinions on this car?
> 
> 
> >
> >
> > Salvage titles may not be a death sentence, however they do limit
> > the value of the car to collectors.  A good rule of thumb is that
> > a salvage title will knock 1/3 off of the value of the car even if
> > it is otherwise perfect.









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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 19:58:25 EST
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Opinions on this car?


Before buying a car with a salvage title I would recommend looking into the 
laws of your state regarding the registration process for a car with a salvage 
title.  Each state has their on unique DMV laws, and trust me, it's never any 
fun dealing with any more DMV red tape then you must.  I would try to check 
your states DMV website or attempt to contact somebody at the local office just 
to make sure.

Andrew


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 20:22:37 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze


 
 
I've never heard about anyone with a drain valve for  the antifreeze other 
than a petcock on the replacement metal  radiator.
 
If anyone has done this successfully please give me  (us) details.
 
Thanks,
 
Dave & 6530 (with  2700)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:23:27 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)



Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean today.
While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This is
what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw
for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for
some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is idling-which
is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this, one
of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I pulled
the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the manifold
and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked this
out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me is
the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one
in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the
engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:37:56 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)



I forgot to mention that my car lacks the air inlet system, just have
a hi-flow filter with a shaved air box-no stove pipe, no air valve no
cold air inlet...Haven't been running with this since I got the car.
Does this make a difference? -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 18:38:28 -0800
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>
Subject: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment


I just got my car back from a shop and was told that the oxygen sensor 
was
disconnected because it was not needed.  To compensate the mixture 
control
unit was adjusted.  As a result the car idles smoothly and no longer 
hunts for
an idle, but a side affect is that if I slowdown quickly (especially 
from
moderate to high RPMs), like braking for a stop, the car will stall.

I was told if I just reconnect the oxygen sensor, the mixture will be 
rich.

What I need to know is it possible to reconnect the sensor and adjust 
the
mixture with the appropriate allen wrench without any other special 
tools.

Thanks

2533






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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 02:57:23 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Best way to sell?



Hi list,

I'm considering putting my DeLorean up for sale this Spring. I was 
wondering what everyone thought the best method of advertising it 
would be. I will naturally put up an ad on the DMC News website and 
alert the DML when and if I decide to sell. But what about other 
methods... anyone have any ideas or experience in selling a D? I'm 
looking at EITHER Collector Car Trader OR Hemmings and they both have 
options of advertising EITHER in their magazines OR online. Which do 
you guys think would be more effective... online or magazine? 
Hemmings or Collector Car Trader? I'm also thinking about putting the 
car in my local Autotrader. I'd prefer to do only one of the above 
options... anybody have any recommendations?

I am not thrilled at the prospect of selling my car, but it's just 
hard to justify being a 22 year old recent college grad with two 
sports cars. Plus driving a stick shift car with a heavy clutch and 
no power steering in downtown Charlotte, where I have to parallel 
park every day, has just ceased being fun LOL! Anyone who knows me 
can attest that I absolutely love my car and am very passionate about 
the DeLorean marque. I can say with 100% certainty if I do sell that 
I will buy a DeLorean again, but at a point in my life where it makes 
a little more sense.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 18:54:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


Martin, another thing I noticed on the Eagle heads is
that they do not have the hole drilled where the
Delorean's distributor goes.  There is a boss there
where it could be machined, but it's not opened up. 
The early Eagle (88-90) uses a distributor mounted
directly on the front of the LH cam while the later
(91-92) uses a distributorless ignition system with a
plug in the hoel where the 88-90 distributor went.

I've also been told that the intakes manifolds and
heads on the different PRV's series won't interchange.
 (i.e. you cannot mount a Delorean intake to the Eagle
heads.) I haven't confirmed this though.


--- Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:

> 
> 
> The Eagle Premier is a Renault engine and the
> injectors fire into the 
> intake manifold just inboard of the inlet ports on
> the head. The heads 
> themselves have no holes for injectors however they
> do have the mounts 
> for the DeLorean intake manifold, and vice-versa. I
> don't know if the 
> DeLorean's cams will fit in the Renault/Eagle engine
> to allow the 
> Renault heads to be used on the DeLo's odd-fire
> block (all the EFI PRV's 
> are even-fire - the shared journal on the crank has
> an offest between 
> shells)
> 
> Martin
> 
> Marc Levy wrote:
> 
> >Did you look in to using injectors from a 3.0L
> Eagle
> >Premier?  They should work.
> >
> >Jim Witherspoon did a nice EFI conversion on his
> >DeLorean.  I think that car has since been sold,
> but
> >if you search the DML archives you can find his
> >messages on the topic where much detail was
> provided.
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 





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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 03:22:41 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: rough running



My car has just had new plugs, wires and distributor cap with rotor 
installed. The fuel system has been reworked but I am still having a 
problem with cold starts it will start but it takes a while. After 
car starts it must warm up before it can be driven, even after the 
engine is warm it is still running very rough, it acts like it is 
getting too little or too much gas, any ideals what the problem may 
be?
Andy3513








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 03:41:09 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Engine spotted



If anyone is interested, I've spotted a B28 engine in a Volvo on Ebay.
buyer says he can't find anyone to work on it. Seller sent me picts,
ton of parts one could use-fuel dist, fuel distrib lines to injectors,
intake etc etc. If it wasn't located so far from New York, I'd go for
it.

Few days left for those who are interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi
ewItem&item=4518838967

-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:04:46 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: !!!(For the owner of Proto1)!!!


Hi Tony

As the owner of you cars closest brother "pilot25" I am glad to see another 
early car saved from the demon that is rust.

It is an amzing thing to behold when you can look in your garage and see 
such a wonderfull sight, it still gets me each time I open the door and see 
my car sitting there and know that it was the basis for every other Delorean 
on the road.

It will be a privalige to see you and your car in Ireland next year.

Alistair McCann
Vin# pilot25
Northern Ireland 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:31:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: PRV Oil/Camshaft Problems



You don't hear French (Renault/Peugeot) owners complaining. Perhaps
Volvo and DeLorean owners deserve one another...

Renault Z7 series is basically identical to B27E. Remained in use in
Alpines and R30's well *PAST* B28 introduction into the US (1984 vs
1980). If the camshafts were so terrible, wouldn't the French have
said something, or jumped on the B28 bandwagon sooner? Speaking as a
Z7 owner myself (previous engine in my DeLo), it's a wonderful little
engine that does outperform JZD's production model.

If potential DeLorean owners are scared of the engine, perhaps they
should read up on the PRV before buying a car. I didn't, instead
listening to "conventional wisdom" on this List. That was a mistake.
Anyone remember when I wanted nothing more than re-engine it with a
Vortec ASAP? (Search the archives circa May 2002). Only later did I
actually research PRV history, learn how they were meant to be tuned
(before contortions forced by EPA regulations), and had excellent
success with my Z7 until an exterior hole developed in the upper oil
galley (common problem when the poor things sit idle outdoors for
years). Its low compression Peugeot replacement is quite satisfactory,
so I have no plans to repair and replace the Renault block any time
soon. But I do miss it and wouldn't mind some day dropping it into
another vehicle.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
>  Bill,
> 
> You said:
> 
> "For some reason DeLorean owners seem to be the only ones keeping the
> camshaft rumor alive -- making lemonade from an engine they aren't
terribly
> thrilled to have in back of their cars to begin with?"
>
============================================================================
> ================
> Bill, check out the following concerning this subject from non-DeLorean
> sources.
> 
> From The Volvo Owner's Resource Re: 90 760 6cyl[ALL/1998] posted by
Paul S.
> on Sunday, 28 December 1997
> 
> "The worst part and what gained the hatred for this motor is the dreaded
> B27F - and in particular the head oiling and soft cam shafts - a
recipe for
> disaster. To make maters worse the bloody French PR team (sorry :-0
), with
> Volvo along for the ride, did almost exactly the same thing on the early
> B28F. There is even a service bulletin on cleaning the head and oil
> passages."
> 
> From Volvobertone.com/
> "I read that the original v6s had "soft cams' and a sorry internal
> lubrication system, which almost always led to premature death. Did they
> ever improve on that design and if so, what model/year Volvos were
they used
> in and would they swap into a 79 262C?"
> 
> From Mälardalens Studentkåreneral - info about camshafts "Some old
> Volvo-camshafts are not so well done, they easily run down and have
> lubrication problems, the rear end of the camshaft has a oil-outlet
that is
> wrong drilled."
> 
>
============================================================================
> =================
> 
> As you are well aware lots of DeLorean hopeful's and new owners view
this
> list. Weather we talk soft cams or lubrication problems it all boils
down to
> premature failure of B-28F camshafts or simply; engine failure. If a
> prospective purchaser is daunted by potential frame rust problems, high
> insurance rates or the cost of extensive restoration or repairs that is
> understandable. They should not however, be turned away because of
rumors
> concerning early engine failure.
> 
> The facts concerning pre-mature camshaft failure is proven in
statistics.
> Cam failure in pre 1981 PRV-6 equipped vehicles is common but virtually
> non-existent for post 1981 DeLorean and succeeding PRV's. 
> 
> DMC Joe  
> 









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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds



In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake manifolds:

I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake manifold seemed modifiable
as follows:
- plug injector ports
- seal a plate across the rear
- plane a flat surface above central air passage
- drill some venturi and stud holes 

Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds are identical to
B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model verify that it is
indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is identical to B28, and
mounting holes are in the same location, so it should bolt up OK. I
believe ports are different sizes, but as long as they are not larger
than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.

This could be a source of intake manifolds for owners wanting to
experiment with carburetion.

Bill Robertson
#5939













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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:02:05 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Opinions on this car?



Brent,
Back in 1987-88 I bought a Salvage titled Delorean,which STILL had 
the damage on it that caused it to have a Salvage title.So I knew 
what I was getting myself into( it had drivers side damage,which 
included,front frame damage,fiberglass damage,suspension damage)
BUT I had the parts to repair(sold my showcar Delorean/and at the 
same time picked up a fire Delorean) so I had Instant parts to repair 
the Salvage titled Delorean,which by the way was/is a 1983,the donor 
car was a 1982,anyway I spent the summer of 1988,getting the car in 
order,I started with the Fiberglass repair(I did the fiberglass 
repair)I had to cut out the 
drivers side front and replace with a replacement section that I had 
from a previous parts Delorean,I had the frame professionally 
repaired,but I did the front suspension replacement,then I used the 
Front fasica,light bar setup,drivers fender hood,wheel/tire and door 
and Quarter panel from the fire car,the door was one of the easiest 
part to install as all that was needed to do was remove the T-panel 
to unplug the door harness and remove the four main bolts that hold 
the door to the hindges quick and easy,did about a dozen doors this 
way over the  years,with no problem.Anyway after finishing the 
Delorean now I had to put it thru Connecticut Salvage 
Inspection,which in Connecticut,you are NOT allowed any form of 
plates to drive it to MVD for inspection,so I trailed it down to 
MVD,then drove it to the inspection lane,the Delorean looked SO good 
that they thought I brought it there for a out of state inspection, 
so they were suprised that I was putting it thru Salvage 
inspection,anyways they put it on their lift,checked for frame 
damage/structral damage finding none,then they did a basic overall 
vehicle inspection,and PASSED with flying colors,total time appox.20 
minutes.Then I was able to get a regular registeration.The title I 
recieved just had the word rebuilt stamped on the Title,and that was 
about it.When I sold the car I informed the new owner that I had 
rebuilt the car and that it had a salvage title when I bought 
it.Anyway I lost track of that Delorean untill I spotted it for sale 
on the DMCNEWS webside deloreans for sale section,which then I 
inquired about the car poising as a buyer,and he informed me that it 
HAD A CLEAN/Clear Title!!(it was now titled in New York State) But I 
knew better!! After he stated it had a clean title I informed him I 
was a previous owner and was the one that saved it from becoming a 
parts car,and that it had a salvage title,at one point,EVEN CARFAX 
showed it as a CLEAN title,(what he was baseing it on)anyway the car 
disappeared from DMCnews site,then appeared on EBAY again STATED with 
a clean title(someone in New York state "cleaned" the title)anyway it 
sold to someone in the UK (England),which I promptly informed them of 
the cars past history,then that person sold it to the present owner
(in the U.K.)any I promptly told him about the cars past,and sent him 
Video tape of the work,as I was repairing it,and even the orignal 
picture of how it looked before I repaired it,and copies of the 
orignal salvage title and paperwork.This is how it should be,Honest 
and upfront about your Deloreans,(that is how I sell all my vehicles 
anyway)But the biggest prize for me is that this car is STILL,around 
TODAY, and being enjoyed by people 17 years after I repaired it from 
it's doomed fate of what it would have become had I not repaired it. 
So my point here,just because it has a salvage title does NOT mean 
the fate is sealed for that perticular Delorean.

Claude
former vin
00570

By the way the vin on that car was/is 16686  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have any opinion of "reconstructed" titles?
> 
> I purchased my "D" from an owner in Maryland who had purchased it 
from an
> owner in Pennsylvania.  When I re-registered the car in 
Pennsylvania, the
> title came back as "reconstructed".  Sometime in it's past it had 
been hit
> in the right front.  Since I have owned it, I have gotten a clean 
bill of
> health from Rob Grady.
> 
> Brent Lundgren
> VIN #17006 (SS Louvers)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mike.griese_at_dml_w...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Opinions on this car?
> 
> 
> >
> >
> > Salvage titles may not be a death sentence, however they do limit
> > the value of the car to collectors.  A good rule of thumb is that
> > a salvage title will knock 1/3 off of the value of the car even if
> > it is otherwise perfect.
> >
> > --
> > Mike
> >
> >








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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:03:36 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Draining and Replacing Delorean Antifreeze



There is also a drain vavle located towards the bottom of the engine 
on the passenger side of the car just above the oil filter. The plug 
is much like the oil drain: it has a recessed square shaped opening 
for a specialty wrench (or if you have a dremel you can just grind 
an appropriate sized allen head wrench down). Draining the coolant 
was this way was very effective when I recently did my upper engine 
rebuild in which I replaced all of the engine's interal water pipes, 
hoses, and fittings.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:32:54 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds



I was told that all PRVs before the B280 have smaller intake ports
meaning the 3.0 has larger. By how much? I'm not sure. Seems that PRV
manifolds are very hard to come by! I'm in contact with numerous parts
dealers in the UK in hopes to find a B28A manifold, seems many of the
"European" version Volvos had carbs '80-'83 260s 262s 264s 265s etc.
instead of FI but so far no luck. Anyway-if the intake ports are
larger then the "O" ring,  I'm sure you could make hi-temp gasket
material work, you might need to grind a little away from the mating
surface of the intake but it will work. If these are as hard to come
by as the B28A intakes- I'm about ready to MAKE my own damn manifold!
-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake manifolds:
> 
> I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake manifold seemed modifiable
> as follows:
> - plug injector ports
> - seal a plate across the rear
> - plane a flat surface above central air passage
> - drill some venturi and stud holes 
> 
> Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds are identical to
> B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model verify that it is
> indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is identical to B28, and
> mounting holes are in the same location, so it should bolt up OK. I
> believe ports are different sizes, but as long as they are not larger
> than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> This could be a source of intake manifolds for owners wanting to
> experiment with carburetion.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:40:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Best way to sell?



My advice: keep the car (it *IS* paid for). I'm a 40 year old grad
student living on unemployment benefits, and I'm keeping mine.

Drive the Mustang to work. Do you really want to expose your DeLo to
Charlotte traffic anyway? And considering some of Ford's engineering
brilliance, are you sure you'd be selling the right car? (Or is your
plan to use proceeds from the sale to keep buying plastic intake
manifolds?)

I can think of no owner who would suffer DT's worse without a little
silver car complicating his or her life.

And if I can be so bold as to speak for others, I think your presence
would be greatly missed at SEDOC, DCS, etc (ex-owners always say
they'll stay active in the community, but they never do). Besides, you
have yet to attend a Mid Atlantic function. At least postpone any sale
until after April...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi list,
> 
> I'm considering putting my DeLorean up for sale this Spring. I was 
> wondering what everyone thought the best method of advertising it 
> would be. I will naturally put up an ad on the DMC News website and 
> alert the DML when and if I decide to sell. But what about other 
> methods... anyone have any ideas or experience in selling a D? I'm 
> looking at EITHER Collector Car Trader OR Hemmings and they both have 
> options of advertising EITHER in their magazines OR online. Which do 
> you guys think would be more effective... online or magazine? 
> Hemmings or Collector Car Trader? I'm also thinking about putting the 
> car in my local Autotrader. I'd prefer to do only one of the above 
> options... anybody have any recommendations?
> 
> I am not thrilled at the prospect of selling my car, but it's just 
> hard to justify being a 22 year old recent college grad with two 
> sports cars. Plus driving a stick shift car with a heavy clutch and 
> no power steering in downtown Charlotte, where I have to parallel 
> park every day, has just ceased being fun LOL! Anyone who knows me 
> can attest that I absolutely love my car and am very passionate about 
> the DeLorean marque. I can say with 100% certainty if I do sell that 
> I will buy a DeLorean again, but at a point in my life where it makes 
> a little more sense.
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:39:03 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment



I was just reading a tech article on this:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lambda_elim.htm

-----Dani B. #5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:55:20 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: RE: Super Charged/EFI



While we are on the subject i have a few questions regarding the on-
going EFI installation. It is in regerds to the brass tube which is 
connected in the centre of the valley and then up to supply the oil 
cap / engine crankcase with vaccumm and various other things etc.
Now the fuel rails are in the way i must modify this tube somehow. 
What apart from crankcase vaccum what else does this supply vaccum 
to? 
On the oil cap there is a small connection (for crankcase vaccum) and 
a large hose connection. What is the purpose of the large one? I am 
sure it would all become clear once i start re-assembling it but just 
wondering for now. Also In Australia as the car was manufactured pre 
1986 i dont have to comply with any regulations. Therefore do i still 
require a charcoal canister and if not what do i need to do to 
disconnect it and not effect anything else on the engine etc. 

Cheers Nick








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:04:21 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: rough running


Andy,
If the cold start valve isn't firing off when your trying to start then that
could be that problem. Take out the 2 bolts that hold it in and lay it over
on a piece of cardboard.Un plug the hi tension wire so the car won't start
and bump the starter with the key real quick. If there is fuel on the
cardboard then the TTS switch and cold start valve are working. Then the
next thing is the control plunger is adjusted to low ( 02 ) and needs to be
reset. The rough running could be contributed to vacuum leaks, or bad
injectors. I'm also assuming the fuel dist is ok. The last thing could be
the voltage going over to the coil, if it's to low it will be hard to start.
Is the relay to the lower left of the resistor plugged in and working, that
also will make it hard to start.
My hours are from 9am to 9pm 6days / week. Call anytime.
John Hervey
972-564-9321
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: andy [mailto:andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 9:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] rough running





My car has just had new plugs, wires and distributor cap with rotor
installed. The fuel system has been reworked but I am still having a
problem with cold starts it will start but it takes a while. After
car starts it must warm up before it can be driven, even after the
engine is warm it is still running very rough, it acts like it is
getting too little or too much gas, any ideals what the problem may
be?
Andy3513








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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:10:01 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment


Steven,  To be environmentally friendly the 02 ( Lambda ) circuit needs to
be working. The hunting can be adjusted out very easy and the other problems
will go away. You need a 3mm long handle allen wrench and call me for the
procedure. You can also find it in the Technical Manuel.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Jones [mailto:smj_at_dml_cirr.com]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 8:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment




I just got my car back from a shop and was told that the oxygen sensor
was
disconnected because it was not needed.  To compensate the mixture
control
unit was adjusted.  As a result the car idles smoothly and no longer
hunts for
an idle, but a side affect is that if I slowdown quickly (especially
from
moderate to high RPMs), like braking for a stop, the car will stall.

I was told if I just reconnect the oxygen sensor, the mixture will be
rich.

What I need to know is it possible to reconnect the sensor and adjust
the
mixture with the appropriate allen wrench without any other special
tools.

Thanks

2533






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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:39:42 -0500
From: jvdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMC to be in a new PS2 game


This screen shot confirms, unless a change is made, the beloved DeLorean DMC-12 will be a selectable car in PlayStation 2's upcoming racing simulator/game Gran Turismo 4

http://www.gamespot.com/ps2/driving/granturismo4/screens.html?page=924

Can't wait for this to come out late spring.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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