From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2425
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2005 1:00 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Best way to sell?
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. Re: Opinions on this car? Eh??
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. AW: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

5. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. RE: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. RE: rough running
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

9. Water Issues
From: "smileksr" <michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Removing DMC Doors.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

12. Re: rough running
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

13. RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Re: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. RE: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. RE: Water Issues
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Removing DMC Doors.
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

20. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. RE: Re: Best way to sell?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

23. X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. RE: Removing DMC Doors.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

25. RE: DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:53:10 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Best way to sell?



Louie,

Of course the quickest and easiest is thru Ebay,but DO NOT expect to 
get top bucks there.(I have sold cars on ebay without any problems 
and,including a Bricklin,motorcycles,and trucks,and also bought 
vehicles thru Ebay )The cheapest is if you live in a home with high 
traffic driving by,I have sold quite a few cars in that matter of all 
vintage from classics to common.The other route is thru "Cruise 
nights",but that is a summer thing.(you get to have your cake and eat 
it too!!)Another way is thru your work(if they have a employee paper)
Then there is Hemmings,or all the Different Delorean web sites,POST 
on all of them!! You never know.Put for sale signs on it where you 
park it at work.keep it spotless,I sold my Showcar Delorean on the 
spot (and got his burnt "D")because I kept it cleaner than showroom 
new(and he was so impressed when we first met,and saw I drove the "D" 
shoeless(shoes in the trunk) and clean towels on the seats,and a car 
cover in the trunk,to cover it whenever I parked(even short term 
parking).He Bought it on the spot, for 16,500 minus 3500. for his  
burnt Delorean,in effect I got his for free since I paid 13K at the 
time(1986) for my Delorean.Treat it like gold,and you just might get 
rewarded for it.

Claude
    
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote: 
> Hi list,
> 
> I'm considering putting my DeLorean up for sale this Spring. I was 
> wondering what everyone thought the best method of advertising it 
> would be. I will naturally put up an ad on the DMC News website and 
> alert the DML when and if I decide to sell. But what about other 
> methods... anyone have any ideas or experience in selling a D? I'm 
> looking at EITHER Collector Car Trader OR Hemmings and they both 
have 
> options of advertising EITHER in their magazines OR online. Which 
do 
> you guys think would be more effective... online or magazine? 
> Hemmings or Collector Car Trader? I'm also thinking about putting 
the 
> car in my local Autotrader. I'd prefer to do only one of the above 
> options... anybody have any recommendations?
> 
> I am not thrilled at the prospect of selling my car, but it's just 
> hard to justify being a 22 year old recent college grad with two 
> sports cars. Plus driving a stick shift car with a heavy clutch and 
> no power steering in downtown Charlotte, where I have to parallel 
> park every day, has just ceased being fun LOL! Anyone who knows me 
> can attest that I absolutely love my car and am very passionate 
about 
> the DeLorean marque. I can say with 100% certainty if I do sell 
that 
> I will buy a DeLorean again, but at a point in my life where it 
makes 
> a little more sense.
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:16:51 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Opinions on this car? Eh??



Also this was probably a car he purchased that had a missing front 
fender and damaged front bumper/facia(accident like it hit a pole 
dead center)He has been buying other deloreans to strip them of their 
good parts to make this car somewhat ok and sell the rest...but hey 
if you could save $$$ that Delorean's life and take it off his hands 
into better hands, I think you should buy it.

CG

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, AJL521_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Before buying a car with a salvage title I would recommend looking 
into the 
> laws of your state regarding the registration process for a car 
with a salvage 
> title.  Each state has their on unique DMV laws, and trust me, it's 
never any 
> fun dealing with any more DMV red tape then you must.  I would try 
to check 
> your states DMV website or attempt to contact somebody at the local 
office just 
> to make sure.
> 
> Andrew
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:34:48 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.


Ok, I'm confused.  Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?  And are intake 
manifolds difficult to get?  I searched the archives and could not find very 
many engine complaint stories. I would think an intake manifold would be a 
readily available part or a part that wouldnt be that difficult to tool.  
Can anybody clear this up?
Alex

>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds
>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
>
>
>
>
>In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake manifolds:
>
>I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake manifold seemed modifiable
>as follows:
>- plug injector ports
>- seal a plate across the rear
>- plane a flat surface above central air passage
>- drill some venturi and stud holes
>
>Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds are identical to
>B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model verify that it is
>indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is identical to B28, and
>mounting holes are in the same location, so it should bolt up OK. I
>believe ports are different sizes, but as long as they are not larger
>than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
>
>This could be a source of intake manifolds for owners wanting to
>experiment with carburetion.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 09:33:03 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)


Did you check your ignition ? is it set to 13 degrees at idle ?

Your symptoms sound like mine when I installed the distributor
wrong (one tooth off !) and had always about 30 degrees advance or more. As
long it was cold - it ran, but very bad.
Once it heated up I hardly could keep it running.
It took me two trys to be able to use the strobe while keeping
the car running. I coudn't see any timing mark the first time.
Second time I used my brain and saw, that it was way off.

30 minutes later (this bit.. was still hot !!!) she ran like a
charme.

So your vacuum advance is deactivated ? why ?
Get that fixed - I mean compared to swapping piston rings this
is like a children's birthday party or so.

For the idle - I don't think that the plates don't close completely (ok,
haven't seen it on your car yet) but if the switch isn't being pushed, the
idle ECU sets the idle PWM to a higher value - the port opens wider.(No, the
idle ECU is not deactivated when the switch isn't pushed, the switch just
reduces the desired idle speed.)

Maybe the spring is too weak (what I do not believe) or the switch
became harder to push down or it is set incorrectly. Anyway - using
two nuts under the switch will lift it up a few mm so that the screw
pushes closer to the end of the switch(metal plate) where it needs less
force.
Since I did this on mine the high idle problem is gone.

Wow, so many small problems and you wanted to rebuilt the engine because of
them ?

Elvis & 6548


Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean today.
While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This is
what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw
for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for
some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is idling-which
is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this, one
of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I pulled
the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the manifold
and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked this
out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me is
the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one
in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the
engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 05:46:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


If your going with EFI, why not get a system that does
the spark too...  get rid of the distributor!

These systems work great for turbo cars, they also
protect you from blowing the engine up.

--- Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> Martin, another thing I noticed on the Eagle heads
> is
> that they do not have the hole drilled where the
> Delorean's distributor goes.  There is a boss there



	
		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 09:34:12 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)


First off only perform vacuum checks when the engine is at full operating
temperature. 

With the engine off move the throttle slightly open and you should hear the
idle speed switch click closed. If you don't hear it click you may have to
adjust the screw on the throttle arm to engage the switch at the throttle
closed position. This switch shuts off the vacuum to the distributor at
idle. Correctly adjusted the engine idle should reduce to the 750-950 RPM
rate when the switch is engaged.

Check the ignition timing. It should be close to 13 degrees.

When was the last time the engine had a complete tuneup? (sparkplugs,
distributer cap, spark plug wires, rotor, replaced fuel injectors)

The vacuum line coming from the rear of the left side of the intake manifold
goes under the intake manifold to a thermo vacuum switch where it
distributes vacuum to the CPR and the distributor. At engine temperatures
below 104 degrees F the vacuum switch is open to the CPR valve to provide
fuel enrichment to the cold engine.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net] 
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 8:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)

Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean today.
While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This is
what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw
for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for
some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is idling-which
is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this, one
of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I pulled
the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the manifold
and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked this
out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me is
the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one
in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the
engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 09:37:15 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment


Goto http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html

For performing this adjustment

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Jones [mailto:smj_at_dml_cirr.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment



I just got my car back from a shop and was told that the oxygen sensor 
was
disconnected because it was not needed.  To compensate the mixture 
control
unit was adjusted.  As a result the car idles smoothly and no longer 
hunts for
an idle, but a side affect is that if I slowdown quickly (especially 
from
moderate to high RPMs), like braking for a stop, the car will stall.

I was told if I just reconnect the oxygen sensor, the mixture will be 
rich.

What I need to know is it possible to reconnect the sensor and adjust 
the
mixture with the appropriate allen wrench without any other special 
tools.






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 09:40:52 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: rough running


Goto http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id4.html

For a fix of this problem.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: andy [mailto:andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] rough running

My car has just had new plugs, wires and distributor cap with rotor 
installed. The fuel system has been reworked but I am still having a 
problem with cold starts it will start but it takes a while. After 
car starts it must warm up before it can be driven, even after the 
engine is warm it is still running very rough, it acts like it is 
getting too little or too much gas, any ideals what the problem may 
be?
Andy3513






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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:44:04 -0000
From: "smileksr" <michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Water Issues



When there is a lot of rain on my car--and therefore rain on my 
engine since it's fairly exposed unlike a conventional car--my 
alternator belt squeals a bit for a minute or two, during which time 
the battery needle goes up and down indicating erratic charging.  
After a short period passes, the squealing stops and the battery 
charge is fine and the charging light goes out.  Any wisdom here?

Mike 
Monson, MA








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:10:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Removing DMC Doors.



I saw the results of your door removal method.  It is
irresponsible of you to post this as a proper way to
remove the doors.

The force on the torsion bar should be released.


--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

<SNIP>
> and Quarter panel from the fire car,the door was one
> of the easiest 
> part to install as all that was needed to do was
> remove the T-panel 
> to unplug the door harness and remove the four main
> bolts that hold 
> the door to the hindges quick and easy,did about a
> dozen doors this 
> way over the  years,with no problem.Anyway after
<SNIP>


		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 15:23:27 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.



Sorry to confuse you- DeLorean uses a certain kind of intake manifold
with it's injection system that are easily able to obtain. Currently
on the list- we are discussing the manifolds (in hopes of trying to
find something to use with a carburetor) that are used on OTHER PRV
engins, such as the ones in Volvos or Chryslers, they are different
from our intakes and some are extremely hard to get such as the B28A
manifolds, these aren't tall like ours and accepts carburetion.
PRVs?-very reliable and long lasting as far as I'm concerned-while
they arent HO, they are pretty decent. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Ok, I'm confused.  Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?  And are
intake 
> manifolds difficult to get?  I searched the archives and could not
find very 
> many engine complaint stories. I would think an intake manifold
would be a 
> readily available part or a part that wouldnt be that difficult to
tool.  
> Can anybody clear this up?
> Alex
> 
> >From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds
> >Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake manifolds:
> >
> >I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake manifold seemed
modifiable
> >as follows:
> >- plug injector ports
> >- seal a plate across the rear
> >- plane a flat surface above central air passage
> >- drill some venturi and stud holes
> >
> >Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds are identical to
> >B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model verify that it is
> >indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is identical to B28, and
> >mounting holes are in the same location, so it should bolt up OK. I
> >believe ports are different sizes, but as long as they are not
larger
> >than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
> >
> >This could be a source of intake manifolds for owners wanting to
> >experiment with carburetion.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:25:26 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: rough running


Andy,
 
What is your tachometer doing when it running rough.  Does it look  like it 
is corresponding to the actual rpm or is it flickering faster than the  rpm is 
changing?
 
D & 6530
2700


My car has just had new plugs, wires and distributor cap  with rotor 
installed. The fuel system has been reworked but I am still  having a 
problem with cold starts it will start but it takes a while. After  
car starts it must warm up before it can be driven, even after the  
engine is warm it is still running very rough, it acts like it is  
getting too little or too much gas, any ideals what the problem may  
be?
Andy3513



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:37:19 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.


Bill and Alex,

Bill first,

 I was bale to locate some information
http://robskorner.org/faqs/3litrefaqs/3litrefaqs.html that may be useful to
you concerning the Chrysler intake manifold. I just looked at by B280 and
one of the problems the I see with a carb modification is height. The flat
sections at the top of the B280 are only about 2" wide, not wide enough for
carb mounting. You could maintain the Chrysler upper plenum but by the time
your finished mounting a carb and fresh air intake you would be well above
the engine cover. You could cut a hole in the cover or completely remove it.
With that set up you would be able to watch your carbs at work while your
driving, through your rear view mirror. 

If you need more details on the B280 let me know, I have one in my garage.


To Alex,

You asked: "And are intake manifolds difficult to get"?

No, they are readily available. Bill is looking for B280 intake manifolds
which are very hard to find.

You also asked: "Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?"
The PRV 6 is an excellent engine. I believe Bill is just looking for an
alternative fuel delivery system.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: alex morgan [mailto:mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 2:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.



Ok, I'm confused.  Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?  And are intake
manifolds difficult to get?  I searched the archives and could not find very
many engine complaint stories. I would think an intake manifold would be a
readily available part or a part that wouldnt be that difficult to tool.  
Can anybody clear this up?
Alex

>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0 Intake Manifolds
>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
>
>
>
>
>In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake manifolds:
>
>I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake manifold seemed modifiable 
>as follows:
>- plug injector ports
>- seal a plate across the rear
>- plane a flat surface above central air passage
>- drill some venturi and stud holes
>
>Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds are identical to 
>B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model verify that it is 
>indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is identical to B28, and 
>mounting holes are in the same location, so it should bolt up OK. I 
>believe ports are different sizes, but as long as they are not larger 
>than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
>
>This could be a source of intake manifolds for owners wanting to 
>experiment with carburetion.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 15:39:00 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment


Stephen Jones wrote:

>I just got my car back from a shop and was told that the oxygen sensor 
>was
>disconnected because it was not needed.  To compensate the mixture 
>control
>unit was adjusted.  
>
Get your money back.

Doing this will put the Lambda system ito "limp" mode and will run rich. 
Specifically it affects the gradient of the fuelling curve (it Air to 
fuel ratio). The mixture adjustment screw adjusts the offset of the 
curve - the two are not mutually exclusive but must be balanced. Get a 
new lambda sensor in there.

If your engine stalls when you rev it then it's likely the idlespeed 
motor is not centred properly - this is quite common and the way -I- 
compensate for it is as follows. And yes I know this is not the way the 
manual tells us to do things but the manual doesn't account for 
variations in the idlespeed valve.

With the engine hot and idling, but minimum load on the alternator (no 
AC, stereo, fans, anything) back the rearmost two brass adjustment 
screws off by 2 turns each. These are the two that don't have a flat 
screw head in them. They're 11mm BTW.

Then unscrew the front one - the one with the screw head. Keep undoing 
it until the idlespeed starts to increase. When this happens, screw it 
back in until the idle returns to normal, then another 1/4 of a turn. 
Your engine will now no longer stall.

Martin





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 15:46:31 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)



Tune up was done in May of 04 when I rebuild the entire frame and had
everything in pieces and the engine out of the car. As far as the idle
goes- The switch on the idle motor DOES activate when the car is
idling, It is just that whoever set this didn't make sure the whole
thing gets back to a fully closed position, it must be binding or have
little spring tension to return back-this I will check out today. When
idling, the Vacuum solenoid cuts the vacuum to the distributor-this I
already mentioned-it is working correctly. There is not supposed to be
ANY vacuum to the distributor during idle, once the throttle opens is
when the vac begins on the advance-this I already know and checked out
OK on my car. The vac advance on the distributor is brand new. For the
engine rebuilding part-it isn't because it is rough running (It's
the
running rough that made me want CARB instead of FI, but will see how
it goes with fixing the FI first), it is merely because I'm moving
from NY to CA and won't have any tools or a garage to perform a
rebuild out there. Introducing that ideas to others + researching the
history of the PRV, it looks like I can hold off on this and still
have a long lasting engine. Anyway, it is very possible I installed
the distributor wrong back when I did the tune-up (especially since I
was still highly affected with PCS from the 2 concussions a few months
earlier!!) and all along have had this as my problem. It doesn't
seem
as I have any vacuum leaks, I've already checked most of the lines and
the switch in the car doesn't hiss. Will inspect the distributor
today
and return with my findings (hopefully I can get to the compression
test today as well;)). THANKS GUYS I really appreciate the help!
-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> 
> Did you check your ignition ? is it set to 13 degrees at idle ?
> 
> Your symptoms sound like mine when I installed the distributor
> wrong (one tooth off !) and had always about 30 degrees advance or
more. As
> long it was cold - it ran, but very bad.
> Once it heated up I hardly could keep it running.
> It took me two trys to be able to use the strobe while keeping
> the car running. I coudn't see any timing mark the first time.
> Second time I used my brain and saw, that it was way off.
> 
> 30 minutes later (this bit.. was still hot !!!) she ran like a
> charme.
> 
> So your vacuum advance is deactivated ? why ?
> Get that fixed - I mean compared to swapping piston rings this
> is like a children's birthday party or so.
> 
> For the idle - I don't think that the plates don't close completely
(ok,
> haven't seen it on your car yet) but if the switch isn't being
pushed, the
> idle ECU sets the idle PWM to a higher value - the port opens
wider.(No, the
> idle ECU is not deactivated when the switch isn't pushed, the switch
just
> reduces the desired idle speed.)
> 
> Maybe the spring is too weak (what I do not believe) or the switch
> became harder to push down or it is set incorrectly. Anyway - using
> two nuts under the switch will lift it up a few mm so that the screw
> pushes closer to the end of the switch(metal plate) where it needs
less
> force.
> Since I did this on mine the high idle problem is gone.
> 
> Wow, so many small problems and you wanted to rebuilt the engine
because of
> them ?
> 
> Elvis & 6548
> 
> 
> Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean
today.
> While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This
is
> what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment
screw
> for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that
for
> some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
> srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
> advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
> smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
> any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is
idling-which
> is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this,
one
> of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I
pulled
> the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the
manifold
> and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked
this
> out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
> from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
> powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me
is
> the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the
running
> of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
> driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put
one
> in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When
the
> engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
> the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
> Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 15:54:24 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


Hi Steve

My R25 Turbo engine has the dizzy on the end of the RH cylinder head 
towards the back of the car (talking DeLorean here - ie it's above the 
alternator). There is so much evidence of different types of mounts for 
anything and everything that it's easy to see that this is just one 
version of the PRV. I'm replacing all the ancillaries with DeLorean ones 
simply because I happen to have most of them, and I'm going 
distributorless as well because this allows the AC compressor, 
alternator and water pump to be eactly the same. (BTW I looked long and 
hard at the TEC3 but fell off my chair at the price - I'm going with the 
SDS system I think because although not as technically advanced, it does 
(almost) everything I want, and I'm sold on the programmer box!)

The heads themselves have two sets of mounts for the intake manifold - 
one of which lines up with the smaller Ren intake manifold, and the 
other is consistent with the DeLorean one.

Putting the dizzy on the end of the cam makes much more sense as it's 
far more accessible and doesn't need to do anything more than simply 
generate a signal for the ECU, and distribute the spark.

The later 3 litre 12v PRVs were found in the Renault Espace, Laguna, 
Peugeot 605  and the Citroen XM. One of the latter was on ebay UK about 
6 months ago, no reserve, starting at 85 (about $160) with ECU and 
everything. It didn't get a single bid. From our perspective though the 
Renaults are the desirable ones because the flywheel is exactly what we 
need and has the crank trigger on it (in a stupid 66-3 setup though). 
All that'd be required is a Bellhousing off any of the UN1 equipped 
EFI-engined Renaults for it all to just fall together in a DeLorean.

Martin

Steve Stankiewicz wrote:

>Martin, another thing I noticed on the Eagle heads is
>that they do not have the hole drilled where the
>Delorean's distributor goes.  There is a boss there
>where it could be machined, but it's not opened up. 
>The early Eagle (88-90) uses a distributor mounted
>directly on the front of the LH cam while the later
>(91-92) uses a distributorless ignition system with a
>plug in the hoel where the 88-90 distributor went.
>
>I've also been told that the intakes manifolds and
>heads on the different PRV's series won't interchange.
> (i.e. you cannot mount a Delorean intake to the Eagle
>heads.) I haven't confirmed this though.
>
>  
>






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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:01:33 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)


Dave,

You are correct on all of your suggestions but I would like to add the
following concerning engine timing. 

To Dani B.; Dave is correct about checking the engine timing, but if it's
off, don't readjust it. The PRV-6 timing does not drift out of operating
range. If you're having problems with performance issues I would not suggest
to fool with the timing unless it was adjusted after the engine started
running poorly. Here is an example. Over the years I have found that the
factory setting of the timing will remain within 2 degrees of the specified
+/-13 degrees even in cars that are receiving post 75k mile tune up's.   

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net] 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 9:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)



First off only perform vacuum checks when the engine is at full operating
temperature. 

With the engine off move the throttle slightly open and you should hear the
idle speed switch click closed. If you don't hear it click you may have to
adjust the screw on the throttle arm to engage the switch at the throttle
closed position. This switch shuts off the vacuum to the distributor at
idle. Correctly adjusted the engine idle should reduce to the 750-950 RPM
rate when the switch is engaged.

Check the ignition timing. It should be close to 13 degrees.

When was the last time the engine had a complete tuneup? (sparkplugs,
distributer cap, spark plug wires, rotor, replaced fuel injectors)

The vacuum line coming from the rear of the left side of the intake manifold
goes under the intake manifold to a thermo vacuum switch where it
distributes vacuum to the CPR and the distributor. At engine temperatures
below 104 degrees F the vacuum switch is open to the CPR valve to provide
fuel enrichment to the cold engine.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 8:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)

Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean today.
While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This is what I
come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw for the idle
speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for some reason the
plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad srpring? Secondly, when I
take the vac line off of the distributor advance and hold the accelerator at
say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is smooth running, when I put the vac line back
on, it is rough holding any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the
car is idling-which is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines
going to this, one of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T"
fitting. I pulled the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith
the manifold and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I
checked this out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line
coming from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me is the
distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running of the
engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been driving this car
for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one in I've had this rough,
vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the engine is cold it runs
extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all the problems and hard
starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:05:00 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Water Issues


Mike,

I wish all of the technical questions we're this easy. A simple tightening
of your alternator drive belt should take care of the problem. If The belt
is old or damaged; replace it.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: smileksr [mailto:michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 9:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water Issues




When there is a lot of rain on my car--and therefore rain on my engine since
it's fairly exposed unlike a conventional car--my alternator belt squeals a
bit for a minute or two, during which time the battery needle goes up and
down indicating erratic charging.  
After a short period passes, the squealing stops and the battery charge is
fine and the charging light goes out.  Any wisdom here?

Mike
Monson, MA









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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:08:33 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Removing DMC Doors.


( Moderators note: While it is correct proceedure to release the tension of the torsion bar I'm not subjecting the list to having to endure yet another argument between certain individuals. SUBJECT CLOSED )


Marc,
You must remember,I started rebuilding Deloreans back in 1982,BEFORE 
there was any workshop manuals,available,that door in question was 
door 1 removed in 1982,by myself,just picture someone with a door on 
their back,removing the door,yes with a Delorean door on your 
back,and removing bolts Not very smart,then lifting it away on your 
back,that was door 1.So the corner tips got slight damage VERY 
fixable.(during the lifting on my back,not from the actual removal)as 
I bumped the corners upon lifting by myself.  I learned real quick 
that it requires at least two people,one on each side of the door,so 
on all other cars two people were used with no problem,as vin 16686
(17YRS OF OPENING/CLOSING THE DOOR WITH NO PROBLEM) and the fire car 
and the red car(one bad hindge) and others that I did.I am NOT saying 
for everyone to do it that way,But if you master door removal,it can 
be done without any problem,again I learned the old fashion way,with 
hands on,and not by any book,in those days NOBODY was willing to help 
or give advice,as Deloreans were cars to be shunned,so I had to 
learn,by hands on,again NOT FOR EVERYBODY,my point is it can be 
done,but done ONLY BY SOMEONE that has MASTERED door REMOVAL,NOT by a 
NEW PERSON just starting on Deloreans,this is best left for someone 
with vast experiance on door removal.

Best Regards
Claude

    
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I saw the results of your door removal method.  It is
> irresponsible of you to post this as a proper way to
> remove the doors.
> 
> The force on the torsion bar should be released.
> 
> 
> --- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> <SNIP>
> > and Quarter panel from the fire car,the door was one
> > of the easiest 
> > part to install as all that was needed to do was
> > remove the T-panel 
> > to unplug the door harness and remove the four main
> > bolts that hold 
> > the door to the hindges quick and easy,did about a
> > dozen doors this 
> > way over the  years,with no problem.Anyway after
> <SNIP>
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:26:04 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


We both are - in fact the distributor on the later engines does nothing 
more than distribute the spark and generate a TDC signal

Martin

Marc Levy wrote:

>If your going with EFI, why not get a system that does
>the spark too...  get rid of the distributor!
>
>These systems work great for turbo cars, they also
>protect you from blowing the engine up.
>  
>






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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:37:43 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Best way to sell?


When it comes to selling these types of cars, patience is the virtue.
Fast will usually mean less, because you will not get the response you hoped 
for and then
begin to feel insecure about your price and lower it in hopes to make more 
money.
So if you are not in a huge hurry, you will do better.

Ebay is good because it gets a lot of traffic, and no one wil find your car 
unless they are
searching for it and that is a direct demographic.
I bought my car on eBay, paid about $15K for it.

You can do the "Classic Car Trader", it will cost about $40 per run or 
something like that.
Then you have the high end and more effective magazines like the "Dupont 
Registry" but
it will cost $600 for one ad!

I think eBay is one of the best, because out of all of the online 
classifieds it allows you
to have lots of pictures.
I hate it when people put a car up for sale and only show a few little 
external pictures.
You need lots of up close detailed shots.


>From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Best way to sell?
>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:53:10 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Louie,
>
>Of course the quickest and easiest is thru Ebay,but DO NOT expect to
>get top bucks there.(I have sold cars on ebay without any problems
>and,including a Bricklin,motorcycles,and trucks,and also bought
>vehicles thru Ebay )The cheapest is if you live in a home with high
>traffic driving by,I have sold quite a few cars in that matter of all
>vintage from classics to common.The other route is thru "Cruise
>nights",but that is a summer thing.(you get to have your cake and eat
>it too!!)Another way is thru your work(if they have a employee paper)
>Then there is Hemmings,or all the Different Delorean web sites,POST
>on all of them!! You never know.Put for sale signs on it where you
>park it at work.keep it spotless,I sold my Showcar Delorean on the
>spot (and got his burnt "D")because I kept it cleaner than showroom
>new(and he was so impressed when we first met,and saw I drove the "D"
>shoeless(shoes in the trunk) and clean towels on the seats,and a car
>cover in the trunk,to cover it whenever I parked(even short term
>parking).He Bought it on the spot, for 16,500 minus 3500. for his
>burnt Delorean,in effect I got his for free since I paid 13K at the
>time(1986) for my Delorean.Treat it like gold,and you just might get
>rewarded for it.
>
>Claude
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Louie" <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Hi list,
> >
> > I'm considering putting my DeLorean up for sale this Spring. I was
> > wondering what everyone thought the best method of advertising it
> > would be. I will naturally put up an ad on the DMC News website and
> > alert the DML when and if I decide to sell. But what about other
> > methods... anyone have any ideas or experience in selling a D? I'm
> > looking at EITHER Collector Car Trader OR Hemmings and they both
>have
> > options of advertising EITHER in their magazines OR online. Which
>do
> > you guys think would be more effective... online or magazine?
> > Hemmings or Collector Car Trader? I'm also thinking about putting
>the
> > car in my local Autotrader. I'd prefer to do only one of the above
> > options... anybody have any recommendations?
> >
> > I am not thrilled at the prospect of selling my car, but it's just
> > hard to justify being a 22 year old recent college grad with two
> > sports cars. Plus driving a stick shift car with a heavy clutch and
> > no power steering in downtown Charlotte, where I have to parallel
> > park every day, has just ceased being fun LOL! Anyone who knows me
> > can attest that I absolutely love my car and am very passionate
>about
> > the DeLorean marque. I can say with 100% certainty if I do sell
>that
> > I will buy a DeLorean again, but at a point in my life where it
>makes
> > a little more sense.
> >
> > Louie Golden
> > VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:54:46 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder



Sorry guys, I ment to write the prices for 1 caliper, not per pair.


Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder repair
kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to 500.
Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
the pads for these referenced cars
are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
(SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003








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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:48:00 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder



Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder repair
kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to 500.
Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
the pads for these referenced cars
are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
(SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003








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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 12:01:07 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Removing DMC Doors.


This has been mentioned before. This is to all; please sign your posts. If
you are quoting another persons comment's please indicate who it is from.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Removing DMC Doors.




I saw the results of your door removal method.  It is irresponsible of you
to post this as a proper way to remove the doors.

The force on the torsion bar should be released.


--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

<SNIP>
> and Quarter panel from the fire car,the door was one of the easiest 
> part to install as all that was needed to do was remove the T-panel to 
> unplug the door harness and remove the four main bolts that hold the 
> door to the hindges quick and easy,did about a dozen doors this way 
> over the  years,with no problem.Anyway after
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________






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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:19:17 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DMC to be in a new PS2 game


Unfortunately, they have it listed under American Cars.  Hopefully they will 
change that.

>From: jvdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DMC to be in a new PS2 game
>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:39:42 -0500
>
>
>
>This screen shot confirms, unless a change is made, the beloved DeLorean 
>DMC-12 will be a selectable car in PlayStation 2's upcoming racing 
>simulator/game Gran Turismo 4
>
>http://www.gamespot.com/ps2/driving/granturismo4/screens.html?page=924
>
>Can't wait for this to come out late spring.
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


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