From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2427
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2005 12:45 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. door trouble...
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: Murray Fisher <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

8. A/C Drain hose replacement
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: door trouble...
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

10. RE: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: door trouble...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: A/C Drain hose replacement
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

14. Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. RE: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: door trouble...
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

19. Re: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Delorean in Feb 2005 Maxim Magazine
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

21. Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

22. Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

24. Re: Super Charged/EFI
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused (DMC Joe)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 22:16:47 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder



I had never noticed this..If smaller-they can't be that much smaller
then the DeLorean Calipers. With these Jaguar calipers installed I
notice no
decrease in stopping power, and have been working/stopping fine for a
long time now. I
believe it would have more to do with the area of your brake pads that
contact the rotor that will determine your stopping power. The fluid:
as long as you have pressure in your system-the piston is going to
push the pads against the rotor. People will buy their parts from
where they please-I know first hand you've [John Hervey] got great
parts and prices,
it's nothing against you or any other vendors- I just wanted to let
people know that I experimented with these parts and have had them on
for a long time with no noticed problems or differences. And for the
people who have trouble affording parts-there is a cheaper alternative
that will work just as well. -----Dani B.
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Dan,
> Just want to remind people that the rear caliper are not the same
as the
> Jaguar, the piston bore is smaller with less fluid to stop the car.
Core
> charges are refundable and are only temporally and we offer a life
warranty
> on the calipers but not if they rust or corrode the inside where the
piston
> is.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:55 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, I ment to write the prices for 1 caliper, not per pair.
> 
> 
> Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
> parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
> same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
> 1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder
repair
> kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
> for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
> instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
> dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to
500.
> Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
> the pads for these referenced cars
> are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
> (SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:26:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


I did.  I used the Electromotive TEC3.  It uses a
high-resolution crank trigger, combined with a cam
position sensor to manage both fuel and spark.  For
spark, it uses its own multi-coil pack.  No
distributor here.  : )


--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> If your going with EFI, why not get a system that
> does
> the spark too...  get rid of the distributor!
> 
> These systems work great for turbo cars, they also
> protect you from blowing the engine up.
> 
> --- Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Martin, another thing I noticed on the Eagle heads
> > is
> > that they do not have the hole drilled where the
> > Delorean's distributor goes.  There is a boss
> there
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________ 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
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The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free! 
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 22:26:59 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: door trouble...



both passenge and driver's side door handles broke off my delorean 
yesterday...

how can i get in the car?

windows are up, the doors are unlocked, but i have no handles now.

my girlfriends wallet is in there!

anyone know what i can do?  i already ordered new handles from 
deloreanone.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:35:54 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game



--Only on the very early cars (even earlier than mine).  On those, the VIN 
tag on the dash says something like "DeLorean Motor Cars, Dunmurry N. 
Ireland".   --But I still agree with you: American company making cars for 
America = American car.  At least until you start taking one of them 
apart.... :-)

For me and 1063,
Jake Kamphoefner



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 1:28 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] DMC to be in a new PS2 game



> I thought we had all determined that the car was in fact considered
> "American".
> Although Itialian designed, and manufactured in Ireland, under Brittish
> reign,
> the car could fall into all of these catagories, but because the car's
> parant company
> and headquarters were US based this makes the car an "American Car".
>
> I will have to double check, but I don't think that "Made in Ireland" is
> anywhere on the car.
>
> Does anyone else have a definitive answer to this debate, and by what
> source?
> - Videobob
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:37:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI



--- Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
> All that'd be required is a Bellhousing off any of
> the UN1 equipped 
> EFI-engined Renaults for it all to just fall
> together in a DeLorean.
> 
> Martin
> 
That's where you've got one up on us here in the
States.  With no access to that bellhousing, I went
through the trouble of carefully trimming the trigger
ring off of the Eagle's automatic flexplate, indexing
it, adding tabs and attaching it to the Delorean
flywheel, then adding a pickup mount on the Delorean
bellhousing only to bail out on the whole system and
go with the aftermarket fuel management system.

Can't wait to see how your setup turns out!

If you need any photos or measurements off of the
Eagle engines, just let me know.

=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. 
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:39:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.


Joe, based on the pics, that doesn't seem to be a
PRV6, but rather some other Chrysler (Mitsubishi?) V6.

Steve
--- DMC Joe <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> Bill and Alex,
> 
> Bill first,
> 
>  I was bale to locate some information
>
http://robskorner.org/faqs/3litrefaqs/3litrefaqs.html
> that may be useful to
> you concerning the Chrysler intake manifold. I just
> looked at by B280 and
> one of the problems the I see with a carb
> modification is height. The flat
> sections at the top of the B280 are only about 2"
> wide, not wide enough for
> carb mounting. You could maintain the Chrysler upper
> plenum but by the time
> your finished mounting a carb and fresh air intake
> you would be well above
> the engine cover. You could cut a hole in the cover
> or completely remove it.
> With that set up you would be able to watch your
> carbs at work while your
> driving, through your rear view mirror. 
> 
> If you need more details on the B280 let me know, I
> have one in my garage.
> 
> 
> To Alex,
> 
> You asked: "And are intake manifolds difficult to
> get"?
> 
> No, they are readily available. Bill is looking for
> B280 intake manifolds
> which are very hard to find.
> 
> You also asked: "Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?"
> The PRV 6 is an excellent engine. I believe Bill is
> just looking for an
> alternative fuel delivery system.
> 
> DMC Joe 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: alex morgan [mailto:mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 2:35 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Questions Re: B280 .... Im so
> confused.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I'm confused.  Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?
>  And are intake
> manifolds difficult to get?  I searched the archives
> and could not find very
> many engine complaint stories. I would think an
> intake manifold would be a
> readily available part or a part that wouldnt be
> that difficult to tool.  
> Can anybody clear this up?
> Alex
> 
> >From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0
> Intake Manifolds
> >Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake
> manifolds:
> >
> >I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake
> manifold seemed modifiable 
> >as follows:
> >- plug injector ports
> >- seal a plate across the rear
> >- plane a flat surface above central air passage
> >- drill some venturi and stud holes
> >
> >Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds
> are identical to 
> >B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model
> verify that it is 
> >indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is
> identical to B28, and 
> >mounting holes are in the same location, so it
> should bolt up OK. I 
> >believe ports are different sizes, but as long as
> they are not larger 
> >than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
> >
> >This could be a source of intake manifolds for
> owners wanting to 
> >experiment with carburetion.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:08:25 -0800
From: Murray Fisher <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game


I have a hardback book entitled "Motor Makers in Ireland" by John 
Moore.   From Page 93 to page 103, they all claim the car was made in 
Ireland by a man named John Zachary DeLorean who was born in Detroit 
Michigan.   I guess it just depends on how you define it!  Various car 
shows have entered it as British, Irish and American......so take your 
choice.   Maybe we should take a vote!
Murray
Vin:05962    Made in Ireland
Lic: DMC-XII     Licensed in Washington State





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 23:30:37 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: A/C Drain hose replacement



My D is missing the hose that drains the water out of the evaporator 
casing to the outside of the car.  There is a small hose (looks like 
and adapter that goes from the evaporator casing to the fiberglass 
underbody but there is nothing going to the outside.  I have tried 
looking for it through the spare tire access panel and NOTHING is 
there.  How can I re-attach/replace this missing hose.  I am tired of 
water backing up into the housing and dripping everywhere.....

Thanks

Michael Q 
#2944 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 19:22:48 -0500
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: door trouble...


Passenger & Drivers Door... On The Same DAY!!!


Steve
#2700



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 5:26 PM
Subject: [DML] door trouble...


>
>
>
> both passenge and driver's side door handles broke off my delorean
> yesterday...
>
> how can i get in the car?
>
> windows are up, the doors are unlocked, but i have no handles now.
>
> my girlfriends wallet is in there!
>
> anyone know what i can do?  i already ordered new handles from
> deloreanone.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:29:18 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder


Group, Don't let any De Lorean parts/cores go back to the core recyclers,
I'll buy or trade for them.
Dan B., I understand. The De Lorean cross reference you mentioned has been
around for years. If you switched over to the Jag rear calipers then sell or
trade me the old rear De lorean. I'll pay or trade more than core charge
they charged so we can keep them in ther De Lorean family.I'll also pay
freight.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 4:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder





I had never noticed this..If smaller-they can't be that much smaller
then the DeLorean Calipers. With these Jaguar calipers installed I
notice no
decrease in stopping power, and have been working/stopping fine for a
long time now. I
believe it would have more to do with the area of your brake pads that
contact the rotor that will determine your stopping power. The fluid:
as long as you have pressure in your system-the piston is going to
push the pads against the rotor. People will buy their parts from
where they please-I know first hand you've [John Hervey] got great
parts and prices,
it's nothing against you or any other vendors- I just wanted to let
people know that I experimented with these parts and have had them on
for a long time with no noticed problems or differences. And for the
people who have trouble affording parts-there is a cheaper alternative
that will work just as well. -----Dani B.
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
> Just want to remind people that the rear caliper are not the same
as the
> Jaguar, the piston bore is smaller with less fluid to stop the car.
Core
> charges are refundable and are only temporally and we offer a life
warranty
> on the calipers but not if they rust or corrode the inside where the
piston
> is.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:55 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
>
>
>
>
>
> Sorry guys, I ment to write the prices for 1 caliper, not per pair.
>
>
> Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
> parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
> same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
> 1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder
repair
> kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
> for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
> instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
> dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to
500.
> Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
> the pads for these referenced cars
> are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
> (SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 00:45:28 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI


Hi Steve

Yeah, we're "lucky" but the snag is that it only works if you're going 
to use the stock ECU as the trigger wheel is bizarre. With the 25 turbo, 
even if I had an ecu, I wouldn't want to use it as it uses a speed sense 
to limit boost in low gears, has a top end of under a bar of boost and I 
don't have the IACV valve for wastegate control (and don't need it with 
the size of the D's rear tyres). It also uses an idlespeed mixture 
control valve. The ECU for the Alpine A610 would be good but is set up 
for a 3 litre lump. I looked at Electromotive thanks to your site but 
the price put me off big-time. I was thinking of doing exactly as you 
with the trigger wheel but spacing out the compressor, water pump 
pulley, alternator pulley and ac idlers out by 1/8" to accommodate the 
trigger wheel, but the SDS system just uses magnets on the pulley - much 
easier, and although it's sneered at a little in the TEC3 manual, I 
don't see that it will be much less accurate- perhaps a tiny fraction, 
but they (say they) get around it by making sure they use decent coil 
packs with a good duration on the plug.

Quick question for you: are you using full sequential ignition? It's 
completely unnecessary (the Renault setup uses wasted spark) but it 
occurred to me in the pub just now (very condusive to clarity of 
thought!) that my RPM signal is going to be 2x what my Rev counter wants 
and will screw up the idlespeed system as well as the rev counter. On 
the SDS there's no idlespeed control but the idlespeed valve on the R25 
is unsurprisingly identical to the DeLorean's so I can just use a idle 
microswitch (handy therefore that the throttle pot incorporates one 
anyway!) and the original system.

Just in case there're still other people reading this thread and haven't 
yet fallen asleep, I've put some pics of my engine at the following URL. 
I took these shots mainly so I had some record of how everything came 
apart. Yes it's really dirty - it sat in this guy's back garden for 2 
years but internally it's as sound as a pound with only the timing chain 
guides showing any real wear. I'm going to have everything tested anyay 
but I expect the crank to be spot on - the bearings are all still pearly 
white and the bores aren't scored. This engine was very much de-tuned 
for the 25 Turbo

http://www.delorean.co.uk/turboprv.zip

One of the photos shows the flywheel and you can see it's identical to 
the DeLorean's except for the trigger wheel

Martin

Steve Stankiewicz wrote:

>>    
>>
>That's where you've got one up on us here in the
>States.  With no access to that bellhousing, I went
>through the trouble of carefully trimming the trigger
>ring off of the Eagle's automatic flexplate, indexing
>it, adding tabs and attaching it to the Delorean
>flywheel, then adding a pickup mount on the Delorean
>bellhousing only to bail out on the whole system and
>go with the aftermarket fuel management system.
>
>Can't wait to see how your setup turns out!
>
>If you need any photos or measurements off of the
>Eagle engines, just let me know.
>
>=====
>Steve
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 00:55:41 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: door trouble...



Corey
Not easily.

You may be able to reach the end of the cable thru the handle-hole 
closest to the back of the car with a needle-nose plier, but it looks 
to be a pretty tough thing to grab. I've never tried it. I'm not sure 
of any other way to get in short of breaking a window, or at least 
forcing one down enough to open the door from the inside. If you have 
to do this, break one of the small roll-up ones because it's easiest 
to replace. 

If you have to go that route, do the passenger side window - I have a 
spare one on hand and I am not far from you. 

BTW - Make sure the new ones you get are all-metal. Be sure to ask. 
The failure is the 23-year old original plastic handle in zero-degree 
temperatures here in Northern IL.

Note to others - when you break one of these, leave a door open until 
you get the handle replaced. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> both passenge and driver's side door handles broke off my delorean 
> yesterday...
> 
> how can i get in the car?
> 
> windows are up, the doors are unlocked, but i have no handles now.
> 
> my girlfriends wallet is in there!
> 
> anyone know what i can do?  i already ordered new handles from 
> deloreanone.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 01:02:43 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: A/C Drain hose replacement


The hose on my car is routed along the top of the frame.  It 
comes out of the tunnel over the fuel tank and dangles over
the side in the right front wheel well.  With all of the bends, 
the hose can become blocked with debris brought in through 
the air vent.  I cleaned out my evaporator housing a few years
ago and got a couple of handfuls of mulch out of there.  To
clean it out, I removed the blower motor and used a garden
hose to flush out the housing.  I also used a wet/dry vac to 
draw the water and goop out of the drain.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> My D is missing the hose that drains the water out of the evaporator 
> casing to the outside of the car. There is a small hose (looks like 
> and adapter that goes from the evaporator casing to the fiberglass 
> underbody but there is nothing going to the outside. I have tried 
> looking for it through the spare tire access panel and NOTHING is 
> there. How can I re-attach/replace this missing hose. I am tired of 
> water backing up into the housing and dripping everywhere..... 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Michael Q 
> #2944 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 01:11:36 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder



I agree that we should keep the stock parts circulating around and not
let any get thrown away. The car is 80's but one day there will be
parts that will no longer be made (like my 1950 Buick, parts for that
are hard to find). I do have the stock rear calipers stored somewhere
in my garage right now, I'll have to start cleaning things up more and
find them. What you said about the size of the piston being smaller
strikes me a bit now. With a smaller bore, the piston should work
faster then with the larger one right? I'm curious as to what my
distribution is now...-----Dani B. #5003
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 4:17 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had never noticed this..If smaller-they can't be that much smaller
> then the DeLorean Calipers. With these Jaguar calipers installed I
> notice no
> decrease in stopping power, and have been working/stopping fine for a
> long time now. I
> believe it would have more to do with the area of your brake pads that
> contact the rotor that will determine your stopping power. The fluid:
> as long as you have pressure in your system-the piston is going to
> push the pads against the rotor. People will buy their parts from
> where they please-I know first hand you've [John Hervey] got great
> parts and prices,
> it's nothing against you or any other vendors- I just wanted to let
> people know that I experimented with these parts and have had them on
> for a long time with no noticed problems or differences. And for the
> people who have trouble affording parts-there is a cheaper alternative
> that will work just as well. -----Dani B.
> #5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> >
> > Dan,
> > Just want to remind people that the rear caliper are not the same
> as the
> > Jaguar, the piston bore is smaller with less fluid to stop the car.
> Core
> > charges are refundable and are only temporally and we offer a life
> warranty
> > on the calipers but not if they rust or corrode the inside where the
> piston
> > is.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialtauto.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:55 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sorry guys, I ment to write the prices for 1 caliper, not per pair.
> >
> >
> > Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
> > parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
> > same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
> > 1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder
> repair
> > kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
> > for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
> > instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
> > dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to
> 500.
> > Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
> > the pads for these referenced cars
> > are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
> > (SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 19:27:31 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder


The reason I know is because I re-built some Jag calipers and had to order
the kits.
John H.



-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 7:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder





I agree that we should keep the stock parts circulating around and not
let any get thrown away. The car is 80's but one day there will be
parts that will no longer be made (like my 1950 Buick, parts for that
are hard to find). I do have the stock rear calipers stored somewhere
in my garage right now, I'll have to start cleaning things up more and
find them. What you said about the size of the piston being smaller
strikes me a bit now. With a smaller bore, the piston should work
faster then with the larger one right? I'm curious as to what my
distribution is now...-----Dani B. #5003
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 4:17 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
>
>
>
>
>
> I had never noticed this..If smaller-they can't be that much smaller
> then the DeLorean Calipers. With these Jaguar calipers installed I
> notice no
> decrease in stopping power, and have been working/stopping fine for a
> long time now. I
> believe it would have more to do with the area of your brake pads that
> contact the rotor that will determine your stopping power. The fluid:
> as long as you have pressure in your system-the piston is going to
> push the pads against the rotor. People will buy their parts from
> where they please-I know first hand you've [John Hervey] got great
> parts and prices,
> it's nothing against you or any other vendors- I just wanted to let
> people know that I experimented with these parts and have had them on
> for a long time with no noticed problems or differences. And for the
> people who have trouble affording parts-there is a cheaper alternative
> that will work just as well. -----Dani B.
> #5003
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> >
> > Dan,
> > Just want to remind people that the rear caliper are not the same
> as the
> > Jaguar, the piston bore is smaller with less fluid to stop the car.
> Core
> > charges are refundable and are only temporally and we offer a life
> warranty
> > on the calipers but not if they rust or corrode the inside where the
> piston
> > is.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialtauto.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 10:55 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DML] X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sorry guys, I ment to write the prices for 1 caliper, not per pair.
> >
> >
> > Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
> > parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
> > same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
> > 1986 Saab 900. You can also use the 86 Saab 900 master cylinder
> repair
> > kit. Calipers- fronts are exact same as 1976 Mercury capri and sell
> > for less then 40 dollars a pair at advance plus a $1 dollar core
> > instead of 100ea. Rear calipers are the same as 76 Jaguar XJS, 88
> > dollars at advance again per pair plus 25 dollar cores opposed to
> 500.
> > Dont spend hundreds on the calipers, or the cores!!! Also obviously
> > the pads for these referenced cars
> > are the same as Delorean. Compare these to delo1 or dmch prices LOL.
> > (SORRY VENDORS) Hope others can use this info- Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 20:30:20 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.


Steve,

The link that I sent Bill is of the Chrysler 3.0 V-6 not the B-280.

DMC Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Stankiewicz [mailto:protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 5:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.



Joe, based on the pics, that doesn't seem to be a PRV6, but rather some
other Chrysler (Mitsubishi?) V6.

Steve
--- DMC Joe <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> Bill and Alex,
> 
> Bill first,
> 
>  I was bale to locate some information
>
http://robskorner.org/faqs/3litrefaqs/3litrefaqs.html
> that may be useful to
> you concerning the Chrysler intake manifold. I just looked at by B280 
> and one of the problems the I see with a carb modification is height. 
> The flat sections at the top of the B280 are only about 2"
> wide, not wide enough for
> carb mounting. You could maintain the Chrysler upper plenum but by the 
> time your finished mounting a carb and fresh air intake you would be 
> well above the engine cover. You could cut a hole in the cover or 
> completely remove it.
> With that set up you would be able to watch your carbs at work while 
> your driving, through your rear view mirror.
> 
> If you need more details on the B280 let me know, I have one in my 
> garage.
> 
> 
> To Alex,
> 
> You asked: "And are intake manifolds difficult to get"?
> 
> No, they are readily available. Bill is looking for B280 intake 
> manifolds which are very hard to find.
> 
> You also asked: "Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?"
> The PRV 6 is an excellent engine. I believe Bill is just looking for 
> an alternative fuel delivery system.
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: alex morgan [mailto:mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 2:35 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I'm confused.  Is the PRV6 a good engine or not?
>  And are intake
> manifolds difficult to get?  I searched the archives
> and could not find very
> many engine complaint stories. I would think an
> intake manifold would be a
> readily available part or a part that wouldnt be
> that difficult to tool.  
> Can anybody clear this up?
> Alex
> 
> >From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Questions Re: B280 / Chrysler 3.0
> Intake Manifolds
> >Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 04:45:49 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >In lieu of hard to find Volvo A series intake
> manifolds:
> >
> >I studied a B280 in a junkyard once. Intake
> manifold seemed modifiable 
> >as follows:
> >- plug injector ports
> >- seal a plate across the rear
> >- plane a flat surface above central air passage
> >- drill some venturi and stud holes
> >
> >Does anyone know if Chrysler 3.0 intake manifolds
> are identical to 
> >B280? If so, could someone with a Chrysler model
> verify that it is 
> >indeed modifiable as above? Valley width is
> identical to B28, and 
> >mounting holes are in the same location, so it
> should bolt up OK. I 
> >believe ports are different sizes, but as long as
> they are not larger 
> >than B28 O rings that shouldn't be a problem.
> >
> >This could be a source of intake manifolds for
> owners wanting to 
> >experiment with carburetion.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 01:34:05 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: door trouble...



Exact same thing happened to me in October-both handles, same day. I
used a really long set of needle nose pliers to reach down and extract
the cable. Takes a lot of time to do this, I was lucky enough the
cable wasn't buried down in the door. Then use the pliers to pull the
ball on the end of the cable and the door will open. My quick fix was
to just switch the handles from pass to drivers-the part of the handle
not used was still good until I can get new handles. Other then that,
you can try to force the small window "in" and have someone with
skinny arms try to reach down to the handle-thats what I did when I
accidently locked the keys in the car. Let us know what
happens-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Corey
> Not easily.
> 
> You may be able to reach the end of the cable thru the handle-hole 
> closest to the back of the car with a needle-nose plier, but it
looks 
> to be a pretty tough thing to grab. I've never tried it. I'm not
sure 
> of any other way to get in short of breaking a window, or at least 
> forcing one down enough to open the door from the inside. If you
have 
> to do this, break one of the small roll-up ones because it's
easiest 
> to replace. 
> 
> If you have to go that route, do the passenger side window - I have
a 
> spare one on hand and I am not far from you. 
> 
> BTW - Make sure the new ones you get are all-metal. Be sure to ask. 
> The failure is the 23-year old original plastic handle in
zero-degree 
> temperatures here in Northern IL.
> 
> Note to others - when you break one of these, leave a door open
until 
> you get the handle replaced. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > both passenge and driver's side door handles broke off my
delorean 
> > yesterday...
> > 
> > how can i get in the car?
> > 
> > windows are up, the doors are unlocked, but i have no handles now.
> > 
> > my girlfriends wallet is in there!
> > 
> > anyone know what i can do?  i already ordered new handles from 
> > deloreanone.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:47:58 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: X-ref: Brake calipers and master cylinder



stainlessilusion wrote:

> Just to let everyone on the list know a few more cross referenced
> parts, I have these installed on my car RIGHT NOW and they are the
> same thing as the DeLorean part: Master Cylinder-the same thing on a
> 1986 Saab 900.

FWIW,  my husband drives an '86 SAAB 900 turbo and suggested 
that I pass along that the Master Cylinder can be obtained at a
VERY reasonable price at www.eeuroparts.com (two e's).  I should 
mention that we have no connection to the website whatsoever.

.........................LP






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 02:25:37 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)



Now that the car is in the garage and defrosting, I'll be able to
check everything tomorrow-tonight I just did some more checking around
and discovered something else... with my gas pedal down all the way,
the assembly on the engine doesnt open all the way, in fact, it is
more then an inch away from the full throttle switch! I've gone over a
few photos and see that the cable is routed differently but I can't
find the correct routing anywhere in the book. There seems to be 2
places to screw the cable into, mine is screwed into the back bottom
spot obviously instead of the top...I've uploaded a picture to show
how far it was opening...and to imagine-I was driving this car like
this for months! wonder what it will be like once it is able to
operate correctly. Anyone know where to find the correct routing??
-----Dani B. #5003    http://damngoodsite.net/5003damage.html


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> You are correct on all of your suggestions but I would like to add
the
> following concerning engine timing. 
> 
> To Dani B.; Dave is correct about checking the engine timing, but if
it's
> off, don't readjust it. The PRV-6 timing does not drift out of
operating
> range. If you're having problems with performance issues I would not
suggest
> to fool with the timing unless it was adjusted after the engine
started
> running poorly. Here is an example. Over the years I have found
that the
> factory setting of the timing will remain within 2 degrees of the
specified
> +/-13 degrees even in cars that are receiving post 75k mile tune
up's.   
> 
> DMC Joe
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos_at_dml_v...] 
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 9:34 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
> 
> 
> 
> First off only perform vacuum checks when the engine is at full
operating
> temperature. 
> 
> With the engine off move the throttle slightly open and you should
hear the
> idle speed switch click closed. If you don't hear it click you may
have to
> adjust the screw on the throttle arm to engage the switch at the
throttle
> closed position. This switch shuts off the vacuum to the
distributor at
> idle. Correctly adjusted the engine idle should reduce to the
750-950 RPM
> rate when the switch is engaged.
> 
> Check the ignition timing. It should be close to 13 degrees.
> 
> When was the last time the engine had a complete tuneup?
(sparkplugs,
> distributer cap, spark plug wires, rotor, replaced fuel injectors)
> 
> The vacuum line coming from the rear of the left side of the intake
manifold
> goes under the intake manifold to a thermo vacuum switch where it
> distributes vacuum to the CPR and the distributor. At engine
temperatures
> below 104 degrees F the vacuum switch is open to the CPR valve to
provide
> fuel enrichment to the cold engine.
> 
> Dave Sontos
> Vin 02573
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 8:23 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)
> 
> Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean
today.
> While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This
is what I
> come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw for
the idle
> speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for some
reason the
> plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad srpring? Secondly,
when I
> take the vac line off of the distributor advance and hold the
accelerator at
> say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is smooth running, when I put the vac line
back
> on, it is rough holding any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line
when the
> car is idling-which is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum
lines
> going to this, one of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a
"T"
> fitting. I pulled the main line off the "T" where it comes from
underneith
> the manifold and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be?
I
> checked this out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum
line
> coming from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really
isn't that
> powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me
is the
> distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the
> engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been driving
this car
> for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one in I've had
this rough,
> vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the engine is cold it runs
> extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all the problems and hard
> starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
> Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 22:59:04 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean in Feb 2005 Maxim Magazine


Feb 2005 has two pictures of Deloreans!

1st one is used in the letters to the editor section when speaking of 
Time travel theories.  Its a small BTTF pic with the car covered in ice.

2nd is on page 40.  Drawing of car with a bikini clad girl washing it.  
The article is about blunders with cars (getting them serviced and 
getting take for a ride by a scammer).

They label the car as a 1978 Delorean (incorrect as we all know)
But they also have a "cut away" view of the front of the car showing the 
engine inside.

My assumption is that they just wanted illustrate a cool car, and 
decided to show the engine in front as a standard automobile would be 
(again...for purposes of pointing to things in the article)

Check it out!

I already sent a letter to the editor about the mistakes.   ;)

Kevin Abato
Vin #16680





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 22:26:06 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game


The car was made in Ireland and that is correct but the headquarters of 
the Delorean Motor Company was in the USA so that makes it a American 
car but it was made in Ireland. The car was built for the American 
market.

Since Toyotas are made here now would you call them American cars then?

Mark V


On Jan 15, 2005, at 6:08 PM, Murray Fisher wrote:

>
>
> I have a hardback book entitled "Motor Makers in Ireland" by John
> Moore.   From Page 93 to page 103, they all claim the car was made in
> Ireland by a man named John Zachary DeLorean who was born in Detroit
> Michigan.   I guess it just depends on how you define it!  Various car
> shows have entered it as British, Irish and American......so take your
> choice.   Maybe we should take a vote!
> Murray
> Vin:05962    Made in Ireland
> Lic: DMC-XII     Licensed in Washington State
>
>
>
>
>
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> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:37:25 +0000
From: "alex morgan" <mauibarber_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMC to be in a new PS2 game


In my opinion I would consider it a british car.  Built in Ireland, Funded 
by Europe, European engine, and Italian designed.  Because JZD lived in the 
USA and had his main office there to me doesn't make it an American car.  I 
don't think the toyota argument stands up.  Because toyotas are ALSO made in 
Japan and Canada (and were exclusivly built in Japan for the first 20 years 
or so.)  The cars were imported from Europe and the majority of wholesale 
profits went (or were supposed to go) to the Irish government. Just my 
opinion.
Alex
>From: Murray Fisher <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] DMC to be in a new PS2 game
>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:08:25 -0800
>
>
>
>I have a hardback book entitled "Motor Makers in Ireland" by John
>Moore.   From Page 93 to page 103, they all claim the car was made in
>Ireland by a man named John Zachary DeLorean who was born in Detroit
>Michigan.   I guess it just depends on how you define it!  Various car
>shows have entered it as British, Irish and American......so take your
>choice.   Maybe we should take a vote!
>Murray
>Vin:05962    Made in Ireland
>Lic: DMC-XII     Licensed in Washington State
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 04:59:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Question about the Oxygen sensor and Bosch adjustment



Some explanation (references turned around for our backwards oriented
engines):

The two shear head screws Martin mentions are balancing screws for the
manual idle speed circuit. They balance air to the driver's (middle
screw) and passenger (rearmost screw) cylinders. Until the foremost
most screw is opened they have no effect.

The slotted head screw he mentions lets air into the manual circuit.
However much air it meters is then routed to either side of the engine
according to settings of the shear head screws.

There's an annotated diagram on Page D:01:13 of the Workshop Manual.

These brass screws are built into every K Jetronic PRV. Many DeLorean
owners view them as "forbidden", but Peugeot, Renault, and European
Volvo make active use of them (only on 1981 & later North American F
series were the balancing screws "shear head" style -- designed to be
intentionally snapped off). In fact for many vehicles they are the
only means of idling the engine. My adjustment method differs somewhat
from Martin's, but I fully support his willingness to use the manual
idle speed circuit. 

Except for their shear heads, balancing screws are identical to the
metering screw -- anyone using this circuit may want to replace them
with metering screws for easier adjustment (or simply get a complete
set of non-shear head screws from a 1980 & earlier junkyard car).

Word of caution: O rings on these screws may be shrunken and dried
out. If you're going to open them, I'd recommend replacing the O rings
to avoid a potential vacuum leak.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Get your money back.
> 
> Doing this will put the Lambda system ito "limp" mode and will run
rich. 
> Specifically it affects the gradient of the fuelling curve (it Air to 
> fuel ratio). The mixture adjustment screw adjusts the offset of the 
> curve - the two are not mutually exclusive but must be balanced. Get a 
> new lambda sensor in there.
> 
> If your engine stalls when you rev it then it's likely the idlespeed 
> motor is not centred properly - this is quite common and the way -I- 
> compensate for it is as follows. And yes I know this is not the way the 
> manual tells us to do things but the manual doesn't account for 
> variations in the idlespeed valve.
> 
> With the engine hot and idling, but minimum load on the alternator (no 
> AC, stereo, fans, anything) back the rearmost two brass adjustment 
> screws off by 2 turns each. These are the two that don't have a flat 
> screw head in them. They're 11mm BTW.
> 
> Then unscrew the front one - the one with the screw head. Keep undoing 
> it until the idlespeed starts to increase. When this happens, screw it 
> back in until the idle returns to normal, then another 1/4 of a turn. 
> Your engine will now no longer stall.
> 
> Martin








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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 05:19:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Super Charged/EFI



The crankcase is meant to be kept under a negative pressure. If you
don't then you may have all kinds of oil leaks. I would try to leave
some provision for keeping the crankcase under negative pressure.
Maybe a PCV valve. Or a metering orifice as it now has. YOu should
also have some kind of backfire preventer. It can be as simple as a
small can with some steel wool inside. You do not require a vapor
canister but you do have to allow for venting of the fuel tank. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> 
> 
> While we are on the subject i have a few questions regarding the on-
> going EFI installation. It is in regerds to the brass tube which is 
> connected in the centre of the valley and then up to supply the oil 
> cap / engine crankcase with vaccumm and various other things etc.
> Now the fuel rails are in the way i must modify this tube somehow. 
> What apart from crankcase vaccum what else does this supply vaccum 
> to? 
> On the oil cap there is a small connection (for crankcase vaccum) and 
> 








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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 05:25:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Questions Re: B280 .... Im so confused (DMC Joe)



Since the owners I've been in contact with are looking primarily for
experimentation, temporary removal of the engine cover shouldn't be a
problem. They just need something to bolt up.

An adapter may indeed be necessary to mate the carb. I even had to
make one to mate a Motorcraft 2150 to my A Series manifold (see the
pics in #5939's photo album). This is actually a very easy task --
aluminum is easier to work with than oak. I used plain steel hole saws
and bits in my router to knock it out in less than a day.

A couple of questions from your B280:

How are the injectors sealed? I am recommending 3/8" or 10mm bolts in
stock boots to cap off the B28 head bungs. Would something similar
work in the manifold?

How is the throttle assembly mated to the manifold? That entrance to
the central air passage would of course need to be blocked off. Does
it look possible to do so with a simple plate & gasket?

Would you be willing to pop the intake off and measure the diameter of
its head mating ports?

Thanks!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Bill and Alex,
> 
> Bill first,
> 
>  I was bale to locate some information
> http://robskorner.org/faqs/3litrefaqs/3litrefaqs.html that may be
useful to
> you concerning the Chrysler intake manifold. I just looked at by
B280 and
> one of the problems the I see with a carb modification is height.
The flat
> sections at the top of the B280 are only about 2" wide, not wide
enough for
> carb mounting. You could maintain the Chrysler upper plenum but by
the time
> your finished mounting a carb and fresh air intake you would be well
above
> the engine cover. You could cut a hole in the cover or completely
remove it.
> With that set up you would be able to watch your carbs at work while
your
> driving, through your rear view mirror. 
> 
> If you need more details on the B280 let me know, I have one in my
garage.
> 









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