From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2435
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 1:47 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: RUSTED FRAMES
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

2. Re: Broken hub carrier
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Delorean Fuel
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Broken hub carrier
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. RE: RUSTED FRAMES
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

6. Re: RUSTED FRAMES
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. RE: Broken hub carrier
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: High Idle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Re: Delorean Fuel
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

10. Re: Reversing Carburetion (David T)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Delorean Fuel (Ancient History)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: RUSTED FRAMES
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: RUSTED FRAMES
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. Re: delorean fuel
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

15. Delorean How to Pages
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Wings-A-Loft Door Launcher System
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Delorean Fuel
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Two Frames for sale ( Was Rusted Frame)
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Broken hub carrier
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Re: Delorean Fuel
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

21. Re: Broken hub carrier
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. weekend on the beach in June /05
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

23. Re: 'Back to the Future' screening with Bob Gale
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

24. Re: Re: Delorean Fuel
From: Murray Fisher <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

25. Re: Re: delorean fuel
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 20:49:06 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: RUSTED FRAMES


Sorry...I should clarify.  Front frame extension replacement is 
relatively simple, with the right tools and a jig.  The parts are 
available (thanks to Ken)  But if your front frame extension is as bad 
as it sounds, you will most likely have issues elsewhere on the frame.  
Bottom line, get the car on a lift, and check out the whole thing to 
find out where you stand.  Pay close attention to the front and rear 
suspension contact points, the engine cradle and the area around where 
the fuel filter mounts on the one side, and that same location on the 
other side.

-Josh



kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 1/18/2005 7:41:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net writes:
>
>
>You  can weld it...but don't expect that to be a permanent  solution
>
>
>you trying to kill the front end business
>LOL
>
>  
>






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 01:59:04 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Broken hub carrier



Thanks guys for the replies. My car sat outside in the grass for a
looong time during its life with the PO, bushings seized themselves to
the bolts and it was a very uncomfortable ride (not to mention
noisy!). Upon replacing the whole rear suspension last year, the left
side carrier's seized parts were removed sucessfully. On the right
(and more expensive with my luck)-the part that the bolt goes through
on the bottom, one of those cracked right off while trying to remove
the bolt. Obviously this has already been replaced and delt with. I'm
just wondering if I'm hanging onto this thing for a reason or if its
garbage. Makes a great conversation peice though. -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> It can be welded. It may not be worth doing it though. Get a price to
> repair and then see what one costs from a vendor. How did you break it?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Is there any way to fix a broken hub carrier? Last year or so mine
> > broke and for some reason I've been saving it. Is it worth aluminum
> > welding with a reinforcment or is it now useless? -----Dani B.








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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:23:03 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Fuel



According to one of Shell's press releases regarding its high octane "V-Power" fuel, "Its 
cleansing action also provides daily engine protection for power with peace of mind."
Also, according to their studies, "Use of low detergent gasolines can allow deposit 
materials to build up on your engine's intake valves and fuel injectors. This material can 
cause less efficient mixing of air and fuel and result in incomplete combustion in some 
cycles. Tests prove that, with regular use, Shell V-Power can remove those deposits that 
low detergent gasolines leave behind."  While all of this should be taken with a grain of 
salt as it is their own product they are describing, it would appear that "NOPE! They are 
pretty much the same. It's just that the higher the rating the less it is prone to explode, it 
will burn and not explode" is incorrect.  Its up to the owner as to what quality gasoline 
they want to put in their car.

Patrick 
1880



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> Hello Patrick
> 
> 
> > This debate is going to have many different preferences, like what oil to
> > use (10W30) :) but
> > if you are going to store your car for the winter or not drive it much,
> > put in a higher
> > octane.  91 breaks down slower than say the 87 would sitting in the tank.
> Sorry, but its not true. They break down at the same rate.
> The oil is a completely different subject.. there are preferences, different
> oil for different temperatures, but with fuel the engine is designed for a
> specific 'grade'.
> 
> 
> > Also, as I recall,
> > in the '81 owners manual all of the readings for gas mileage, performance,
> > etc and all of
> > those specs say that the car was tested using 91 octane fuel.
> It was mentioned that it is recommended to use 91 octane fuel, BUT that was
> for Europe. We use different method for determining the octane rating. 91 in
> Europe is the same as 87 in the US.
> The owners manual that I have states clearly:
> Your DeLorean is designed to operate at factory specifications at UNLEADED
> GASOLINE only of 87 anti-knock index (R+M)/2 (91 research octane number).
> If you look at the pump at a gas station there is a formula right under the
> octane rating and it is (R+M)/2 in the US.
> The DeLorean was designed for 87.
> 
> > Also, the higher octanes like Shell V-Power typically have more cleaners
> > in them that help clean out fuel injectors and the like (or so I
> > am told)
> NOPE! They are pretty much the same. It's just that the higher the rating 
> the less it is prone to explode, it will burn and not explode.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> jamesik_at_dml_v...
> VIN 6149
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...








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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:31:09 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Broken hub carrier



"Fellow owner" he says! That would be me. I'm not proud of what I 
did. 

The thing is cast. I wouldn't trust it to hold by welding it. The 
driver's side is (apparently) more common and less expensive than 
the passenger side. If yours is the driver's side, I'd definitely 
just throw it away.

I kept a small piece of mine as a constant reminder about the 
excessive use of force.

Rich A.
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> My two cents is I would not chance it. A fellow owner broke one in 
my  garage 
<snip>








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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:36:41 -0500
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: RE: RUSTED FRAMES


With all this talk about replacing / swapping frames, can anyone (with experience) tell us how difficult and time consuming it is?  Day, weekend, week, month job?  One, two, three, four man job?  Lift or no lift required?
 
Thanks
 
JAS

	-----Original Message----- 
	From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
	Sent: Tue 1/18/2005 7:55 PM 
	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
	Cc: 
	Subject: Re: [DML] RUSTED FRAMES
	
	




	The extent of what can be repaired is limited by your wallet and the
	competance of the welder. If the frame is bad enough then it may be a
	matter of economics that it should be replaced. The frame is only made
	of sheet metal and the right guy could build a whole new one if he had
	to! You just may not be willing to spend for it. Generally with rust
	what you see is only the "tip of the iceburg" so to speak. When you
	actually get into the repair you will be replacing a lot more than
	what is obvious when you start. The frame on a Delorean is VERY stiff.
	If you see it flexing then the car is no longer driveable. In fact,
	you need to be extra careful towing it. If the tow truck operator
	pulls the wrong way he will rip the front right off. Ditto for
	securing it to the truck, you cannot use the loops on the front, you
	will pull the front of the frame right off. You might want to pass on
	this one unless you get it cheap enough to replace (or repair) the
	frame. BTW if the frame is this bad expect a lot of other problems.
	Serious frame rust generally means the car sat for a long time on
	unpaved ground.
	David Teitelbaum
	vin 10757
	
	
	--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
	>
	> Ugh...bad news man!  I helped a guy named Mike Luckey replace his
	rusted
	> frame with a new one recently because he had what sounds like very
	>
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
	moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
	
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	To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
	Yahoo! Groups Links
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:45:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: RUSTED FRAMES



Good question - but no fast answer. There are a ton of dependencies. 
If you have a lift and complete new rolling frame, where you only 
have to swap the engine over and put it back together, it could 
easily be done in a weekend. More than once I've lifted a body off 
the frame in 1/2 day. About the same to get it back together (not 
counting getting the A/C back up!) And engine swap between frames is 
a few hours. But  - wouldn't you want to detail the engine while it's 
out? There's never a better time to do gaskets, seals etc. 

The average is probably closer to several months. It's a great winter 
project if you have the workspace. Most people can't build up a 
completely new frame - that's a lot of parts. Without a lift you get 
to use 4 floor jacks and lots of lumber. You usually don't work on it 
7 days a week, and you usually want to refurb all the little rusty 
bits that you have to move over. Rememeber, if the frame is rusty, so 
is the fuel system, brake lines, heater lines, suspension, etc. 

Generally if you are going to all this trouble, you don't want the 
bottom of the car to look like some old used car. You'll spend a lot 
of time and money on "while I'm in here" stuff. . . It's a lot of fun 
if you're into it, a lot of work if you're not.

Dave S

-----Original Message----- 
With all this talk about replacing / swapping frames, can anyone 
(with experience) tell us how difficult and time consuming it is?  
Day, weekend, week, month job?  One, two, three, four man job?  Lift 
or no lift required?
 
Thanks
 
JAS
	-----Original Message----- 
	From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
	Sent: Tue 1/18/2005 7:55 PM 
	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
	Cc: 
	Subject: Re: [DML] RUSTED FRAMES


	The extent of what can be repaired is limited by your wallet 
and the
	competance of the welder. If the frame is bad enough then it 
may be a











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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:16:58 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Broken hub carrier


Yes, Contact me about it. I took one off a frame a while back. Don't throw
anything away.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 6:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Broken hub carrier





Is there any way to fix a broken hub carrier? Last year or so mine
broke and for some reason I've been saving it. Is it worth aluminum
welding with a reinforcment or is it now useless? -----Dani B.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:23:15 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: High Idle


Dub, Is there any end play on the throttle body butterfly shaft. That may be
part of it with the gap I'm seeing. They do wear out over time.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: JDub [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 6:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] High Idle




Well the search for the high idle continues.  I
suspect a vacuum leak is the cause.  I held the
throttle body up to the sun and took some pictures.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/doki_pen/album?.dir=/2649&.src=ph&.tok=phZNFZC
BjajZibpm

You can see some light through it but I don't know if
it's enough to make a difference. What do you guys
think?

Jon


--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:

>
>
> Jon, I will jump in and ask: Is the idle speed
> microswitch working properly.
> If it's not adjusted so the top screw is engaging
> and turning off the vacuum
> solenoid before the bottom screw goes to the rest
> position, or not working
> at all the vacuum solenoid won't shut off the vacuum
> to the ignition
> distributor which advances the timing and will cause
> the higher idle. Fuel
> mixture and vacuum leaks along with Idle speed ECU
> and sensor could but not
> likely. You could have a bad vacuum line somewhere
> else.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JDub [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 8:05 PM
> To: DML
> Subject: [DML] High Idle
>
>
>
>
> I'm trying to tackle a problem I've had with my
> delorean for a long time.  The idle is excessivly
> high, about 1500 RPMS.  I was thinking maybe the
> timing is off, could this cause it?  If so, do I
> adjust it by turning the distributor? Looks awfully
> tough to get to.
>
> Jon
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 02:07:58 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Fuel


Hello Patrick


> This debate is going to have many different preferences, like what oil to 
> use (10W30) :) but
> if you are going to store your car for the winter or not drive it much, 
> put in a higher
> octane.  91 breaks down slower than say the 87 would sitting in the tank.
Sorry, but its not true. They break down at the same rate.
The oil is a completly different subject.. there are preferences, different 
oil for different temperatures, but with fuel the engine is designed for a 
specific 'grade'.


> Also, as I recall,
> in the '81 owners manual all of the readings for gas mileage, performance, 
> etc and all of
> those specs say that the car was tested using 91 octane fuel.
It was mentioned that it is recommended to use 91 octane fuel, BUT that was 
for Europe. We use different method for determining the octane rating. 91 in 
Europe is the same as 87 in the US.
The owners manual that I have states clearly:
Your DeLorean is designed to operate at factory specifications at UNLEADED 
GASOLINE only of 87 anti-knock index (R+M)/2 (91 research octane number).
If you look at the pump at a gas station there is a formula right under the 
octane rating and it is (R+M)/2 in the US.
The DeLorean was designed for 87.

Hope this helps

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 04:36:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Reversing Carburetion (David T)



Perhaps you misunderstand:

Carbureting a PRV is *NOT* a permanent modification. All of the K
jetronic plumbing and filter/accumulator are still under my car, with
the hoses tied together at either end to keep contaminants out (ran a
new fuel line directly from front to rear). My current heads have no
injector bungs, but if they had I would've simply plugged them with
bolts in the boots (stainless button heads would look nice). My fuel
pump sits in a standard tank boot, connected to factory wiring.
Converting back to K Jetronic would be as simple as:
- Placing a FI manifold on the engine
- Attaching a fuel/air mixture unit
- Replacing bolts with injectors in the head bungs
- Replacing low PSI pump with a high pressure model
- Reconnecting hoses, CPR, etc

I did shorten my factory throttle cable, but with more time I could
have made a custom one and set the original aside.

Note also that my current water distribution pipe was never drilled
for various sensors -- would need to be modified or replaced if going
back to CIS and Lambda Sond (which of course I have NEVER had anyway
-- block that came with the car was Z7V / B27E).

Exclusive of the manifold/carb adapter, cost of a carbureted
conversion should be slightly more than $200:
$150 rebuilt carb
$13 low PSI pump
$50 hoses, clamps, fittings
$10 generic air filter housing
$10 air and fuel filters, PCV valve
$15 custom throttle cable
Quite a bargain compared to what some people spend on K Jetronic.

Time is definitely not an issue. I did spend a Saturday making my carb
adapter, and figuring out what to do with the fuel pump took a while
to engineer (less than an hour to manufacture), but bolting everything
up in the final installation probably took 15-30 minutes. Remember: I
can pop my intake manifold off WHILE pumping gas. Longest part of the
actual installation was running the new fuel line. 

Just suppose Dani gets his hands on a manifold & adapter ready to bolt
up -- what harm could there be in laying K Jetronic aside for $200 and
a weekend of labor (most of that REMOVING the FI)? If he doesn't like
the results, he *CAN* convert back. If the car is sold with
carburetion, the K Jetronic components he set aside *CAN* go with it
for the next owner to use. 

Re: Rebuilding the carb -- if/when the time comes, just swap it for
another rebuilt unit. They're only held down by 2-4 bolts, depending
on the model. Rebuilt carbs come with a year warranty to ensure no
bugs in the rebuild.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I did not mean to leave the impression that you shouldn't put a
> carburator on your car. Your car is to do with as you wish. What I
> mean to say is that for all the time and money it will take to do it
> would probably be better spent trying to get the origional systems to
> work properly. Just think, someday you may want to sell your Delorean,
> I would ask you what a Delorean with a carburator is worth? Who will
> know  how to service it? Where do you get parts for it and what kind?
> Part of this kind of conversion is documenting everything you do so
> you can go back yourself if you ever need to or even for a future
> owner. Imagine what you will do if you forgot what you did and didn't
> know what kind of kit to get to rebuild the carburator? You can't call
> a vendor for help, they wouldn't know where to begin! When you take
> the "road less travelled" you had better be prepared to help yourself!
> When all of the systems on a 20 year old Delorean are set up and
> running right I do not think you will be able to duplicate the
> performance with a carburator. The origional systems also will stay in
> tune for a long time, just not 20 years without *some* maintainence.
> Fuel injection is a little fussier about stale or dirty fuel. Once you
> go over the fuel system and get it all cleaned up (and use the car at
> least once in a while) The fuel system is pretty reliable. I agree
> that to put a full-blown engine management system onto a Delorean is
> not the "cheap" way to fix things and it probably won't improve the
> performance all that much.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:01:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Fuel (Ancient History)



In the days of leaded gasoline, some brands (Amoco for example) did
NOT add lead to their premium grade, opting instead for other
detonation inhibitors. Old heads call this "white gas". Was *MUCH*
kinder to the carb and valve train than leaded gas. For that reason
alone people would buy it irrespective of the octane rating (which
often ran as high as 97).

Is meaningless at today's gas stations I know, but perhaps explains
some of the allure premium grade still holds in popular culture.

BTW: gasoline, like all other automotive fluids and lubricants, is
higher in quality today than it's ever been. Measurements such as
octane rating, viscosity (not API), DOT temps, etc are unchanged, but
the products themselves are much better.

Bill Robertson
#5939

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> Remember, there is no such thing as *grades* of gasoline. Octane is a
> level of resistance to combustability. So the higher the #, the more
> "retardant" it is. Gasoline is also equal across the board, in as no
> matter what the octane rating, the BTUs will still be the same. You
> WILL NOT generate more power from an engine, by increasing octane!!!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"









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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 00:14:25 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RUSTED FRAMES


 
In a message dated 1/19/2005 12:03:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com writes:

With all  this talk about replacing / swapping frames, can anyone (with 
experience) tell  us how difficult and time consuming it is?  Day, weekend, week, 
month  job?  One, two, three, four man job?  Lift or no lift  required?




It all depends on what you have 
if you do as Josh did 
and I will say Josh did a complete frame swap without ever having done one  
before in about 5 weeks 
It could have been done in a weekend but as was stated by Dave they got  into 
it and decided to do it right and replaced all the parts.
 
We did not have a lift but it does take a few times to use at least 5  people 
to move things.
 
While the engine was out it got cleaned and on and on but the car looked  new 
on the bottom when done.
 
One note 
We (Josh) has parts that I have had sandblasted clean and painted so that  if 
you want to do your car we would swap  you (plus the cost to clean) the  
clean parts for your dirty ones so you can just go right to rebuild.  this  
includes the pipes springs etc,
 
Call Josh for that stuff (plug for Josh) 
 
But bottom line is it was done by someone that had not done it  before.  BUT 
if you have no mechanical ability or never have done  a job like this I would 
get a lot of help.
You need at least one person there from a safety standpoint that KNOWS what  
they are doing.  It is too dangerous to do if you do not know the  dangers.  
It is heavy and can fall on  you.
 
Josh learned by taking apart a few DeLoreans like the fire car and a  scrap 
car so he this was his next step.
 
But frame swaps are not impossible.
 
But from the sound of this thread all you need is a crumple zone unless you  
show us more damage.
 
Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:23:25 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: RUSTED FRAMES



I personally removed the frame in 4 hours BY MYSELF with no lift (and
only 2 floor jacks ;))! But I've done this before, since this is
your
first time doing something like this, it will be awfully time
consuming and may even take the whole day. Additional people (where
are you located btw?) and a lift would make things so much easier and
faster. But then you'll need to remove everything, rebuild, reinstall
AND with removing everything from the frame-There is no question that
you'll run into other obstacles and need additional parts. Like
already mentioned, it is the best time to do all the work to the
engine, transmission, brakes, fuel, whatever needs attention basically
since it is MUCH easier to do (especially replacing those rusted
air-dam/body bolts on the body). When I did this the last time, I
replaced all my suspension & steering parts, a lot of engine parts and
etc, so it may also extremely costly depending on which way you go.
The more people the better, and
really-the more time you take the better. Don't throw something
together as fast as you can, the more time you take the better quality
everything will have. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:36:31 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: delorean fuel



A point that i havent seen or missed is that a higher octance fuel 
burns slower than a lower octane fuel. That's the MAIN reason it is 
used on high performance cars with higher compression or forced 
induction. You get a slower more even and cooler burn which prevents 
detonation etc..
It is a common misconception that a higher octane number means it's 
MORE potent.

Nick 10927








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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 21:42:39 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean How to Pages


All,

     I am hapy to announce that my HOWTO collection is
back online after procuring a new server as well as a
new internet connection.  I put the delorean stuff
back up first, the rest of the site is completely
empty.

thanx

http://retroserver.no-ip.com


jordan
11613



	
		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:42:51 -0000
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Wings-A-Loft Door Launcher System



Hi Everybody,

Just this afternoon, I finshed installing all of the Wings-A-Loft 
upgrades and accessories I purchased from Toby at DeLorean Parts 
Northwest. I purchased the Door Lock actuator upgrades, the basic 
door launcher system, and the trunk actuator. I was so pleased with 
the results. It truly is a terrific setup. Installing everything was 
a piece of cake. The actuators were very easy to install and work a 
million times better than the solenoids. 

The Door Launchers (Which I think is the neatest accessory for the 
DeLorean) turned out great. Installing them was easy, and like 
descrbed, there is no need to run wiring through the doors at all! 
They were very to install, and the instructions were terrific with 
numerous pictures and diagrams. All the parts are provided in each 
kit, so there is no need to buy any electrical connectors or 
anything. It is the neatest feeling when you push the button on the 
remote, and see the doors launch before your eyes. 

Just this afternoon, I installed the trunk actuator, which pops the 
trunk using a channel in the remote fob. It took me all of 45 Minutes 
to wire and install. It worked perfectly and flawlessly.

Personally, I don't have much electrical experience at all, and I was 
figuring this to be a nightmare for a guy like myself. I was sure I  
would mix something up or get something wrong. Once I looked through 
the instructions, it was all very easy and clear to me. Everything 
was wired correctly and worked. Toby was able to assist me with any 
issue I had, which was a flaw on my end.

So, this is a call to anyone who has been considering buying Door 
Launchers for their DeLorean, or if you are just looking to upgrade 
your solenoids, or add a remote trunk opener, which can also be 
adapted to an existing remote system. It really is awesome! I 
recommend this system 100%, and am very glad I purchased all of the 
upgrades I did.

Matt
VIN 2205
LIVING THE DREAM










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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 10:03:00 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Fuel



Interesting all this fuel talk.

In the UK many independent car magazines, motoring supplements 
recommend Shell and Texaco as they have the best 'Detergent Packs'.

'Supermarket Fuels' as they have now been nicknamed, which are a bit 
cheaper than the likes of Shell and Texaco, maybe 3 pence per litre, 
are often said to leave deposits which in the long term can cause 
problems. 

>From reading many Agony aunt style columns in the motoring 
supplements of newspapers, it does appear that there is an obvious 
link between the cheaper Supermarket fuels and problems with modern 
injection engines. 

I now always use Shell Optimax and have noticed a benefit in fuel 
economy (which covers the extra 3 pence per litre) and the car 
starts and runs better.

In the UK where we are paying about 4.50 ($8.00) per gallon the 
extra 3 pence per litre pales into insignificance 

So to conclude, I think there is enough evidence to prove that not 
all fuels are equal

Just my 2 pence


James









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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 13:18:48 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Two Frames for sale ( Was Rusted Frame)



I have two manual frames for sale.  One is still on my car, the other 
is in my garage from my parts car.

The parts car was in an accident in the front passenger side.  This 
bent the shock tower back a bit and caused damaged to the passenger 
side of the crumple tube.  The rest of the frame is very solid with 
no rust.  I believe a frame shop would be able to align the front.  
If anyone is interested, please contact me.  I will sell for a great 
price.

The other frame is currently on my car, 04512.  The reason it is for 
sale is because I'm going to be doing a frame swap this March with 
Josh (Thanks Josh!).  Back in 2000 i had a lot of work done on my car 
by to very experience Delorean guys.  While they were replacing and 
fixing everything else on my car, they cleaned up the frame as good 
as they could with having the body still on the car.  The frame is 
straight, but would need to be restored due to rust.  I will also let 
this frame go ver a very good price.  

If anyone is interested, please contact me off the list.  I have a 
flat bed trailer that I could deliver with depending on the distance.

All funds go right back into the restore of 04512. 

Thanks,
Erik Geerdink


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> Ugh...bad news man!  I helped a guy named Mike Luckey replace his 
rusted 
> frame with a new one recently because he had what sounds like very 
> similar problems.
> 
> You can weld it...but don't expect that to be a permanent solution, 
and 
> based on what Mike told me about his experiences, good luck finding 
> someone willing to do it.  Most welders don't want to be held 
liable in 
> case it breaks on you while you're going 60 mph down the highway.  
You 
> best bet is to find a cheap refurbished frame, or Bryan Pearce's 
> stainless steel frame and swap it out with what's in there.  It 
took me 
> and Mike about three months to do his, and I'm going to start 
helping 
> another guy do his this March.  Be glad to offer any pointers or 
hints 
> that I can along the way.  Where are you located?
> 
> BTW, I would stop driving your car RIGHT NOW until you get the 
frame 
> rust checked out further.  If any of the multiple suspension 
contact 
> points are rusted through, PARK THE CAR!  Mike Luckey will tell you 
why.
> 
> -Josh
> 
> 
> cajunsprint wrote:
> 
> >
> > Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew if a rusted front frame on 
a 
> >81 Delorean could be welded and be fine, I just found that the 
right 
> >front extension to the wheel is rusted through and also the same 
> >side at the top where a smalled bar goes back  into the body, when 
> >you push up and down on the sway bar(when the vehicle is in the 
air) 
> >the whole frame will move with it, appreciate any info as this is 
my 
> >first Delorean and do not want to get into more than I bargained 
for.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 05:52:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Broken hub carrier


I seem to remember stacks of them at KPAC.  Assuming
they were all moved to Houston, there or more than we
ever need.

Why risk fixing a critical part like that?  Send it to
the metal recyclers.


--- stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:


> Is there any way to fix a broken hub carrier? Last
> year or so mine
> broke and for some reason I've been saving it. Is it
> worth aluminum
> welding with a reinforcment or is it now useless?
> -----Dani B.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 08:47:34 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean Fuel


As I recall, some years back all grades of a gasoline brand were required to
have the same concentration of the "additives".  The only difference was the
octane rating.  Shell sells V-Power and Chevron-Texaco sells Techron.  I
prefer Chevron.  The key is to use the name brand gasoline's that have the
"Detergents".  The generic gasoline may come from the same loading rack as
the name brand, it just doesn't have the additives.

-----Original Message-----
From: p12c16 [mailto:PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean Fuel





According to one of Shell's press releases regarding its high octane
"V-Power" fuel, "Its 
cleansing action also provides daily engine protection for power with peace
of mind." Also, according to their studies, "Use of low detergent gasolines
can allow deposit 
materials to build up on your engine's intake valves and fuel injectors.
This material can 
cause less efficient mixing of air and fuel and result in incomplete
combustion in some 
cycles. Tests prove that, with regular use, Shell V-Power can remove those
deposits that 
low detergent gasolines leave behind."  While all of this should be taken
with a grain of 
salt as it is their own product they are describing, it would appear that
"NOPE! They are 
pretty much the same. It's just that the higher the rating the less it is
prone to explode, it 
will burn and not explode" is incorrect.  Its up to the owner as to what
quality gasoline 
they want to put in their car.

Patrick 
1880






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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 08:53:51 -0600
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Broken hub carrier


I'm not a metallurgist but I know the aluminum suspension components are
forged aluminum and I know that welding aluminum does reduce the strength.
Where the part is broken should be the deciding factor as to whether it's
salvageable or not. Obviously a broken highly stressed area like the lower
bolt hole where the lower control arm and coil over shock attach should be
considered beyond repair.

Bruce Benson






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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 10:24:04 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: weekend on the beach in June /05


WOW!! Great response already!

I forgot to say that there is absolutely no cost for this DeLorean meet in Grand Bend, Ontario, Canada on June 18 - 19 / 05.  Pay for your own lodging, food, and expenses. 

I have been advised by a high source, that the sun will be out, weather warm, and the sky clear, and beer cold.

Marv.
Marvin Stein
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
business phone: 519-434-1666
res phone: 519-438-7174
fax: 519-434-7071
cell:519-852-1667

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 08:43:43 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: 'Back to the Future' screening with Bob Gale


I'm planning to attend this screening (along with VIN 10470).  Who else is going, where are you parking, and how shall we coordinate?

-Owen


BTTF.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Those of you on the list who are in the Los Angeles area may be 
> interested to know that there will be a one-time only 20th 
> Anniversary screening of 'Back to the Future' on February 1, 2005 at 
> 7:30 PM at the ArcLight Hollywood Cinemas.  Writer/Producer Bob Gale 
> will be in attendance for a Q&A session following the movie.  I'm 
> sure he'd be stoked to see a parking lot full of DeLoreans that 
> evening!
> 
> Complete details can be found at our newly redesigned site.  
> 
> Stephen Clark, BTTF.com
> http://www.bttf.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 







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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 10:13:35 -0800
From: Murray Fisher <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Fuel


Back in the olden days when I was working for the Railroad, we got in 
tank cars of gasoline consigned to three different major companies.....I 
supervised the unloading into their 18 wheeler tankers......there was 
only one spigot........they all took their assigned amount out of 
it......then advertised that theirs was Best by Test than anyone elses.  
I kinda lost faith in advertising about that time......then more 
recently ditto with smaller stuff.....for example a deep freeze or 
refrig would come with a name plate that slipped in a holder and there 
would be several in a little bag attached to the back......all big name 
brands.....take your choice.  Of course by the time it got to the 
customer it had the proper name on it and he thought he got the best one 
on the market.  But maybe times have changed!!
Murray
    Vin: 05962
    Lic: DMC-XII






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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 18:35:44 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean fuel


You're correct, but not entirely accurate - higher octane means a slower 
burn but it does contain more chemical energy, therefore an engine 
that's set up to take advantage of it will be more powerful than an 
identical engine tuned to use regular fuel. If you run an engine set up 
for Super on regular, it will damage it.

Just my 2p

Martin

>
>A point that i havent seen or missed is that a higher octance fuel 
>burns slower than a lower octane fuel. That's the MAIN reason it is 
>used on high performance cars with higher compression or forced 
>induction. You get a slower more even and cooler burn which prevents 
>detonation etc..
>It is a common misconception that a higher octane number means it's 
>MORE potent.
>
>Nick 10927
>  
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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