From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2436
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 5:16 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: High Idle
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: Re: Delorean Fuel
From: Doc Hudkins <dochudkins_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Thermistor Specs
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Question.
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Re: delorean fuel
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

6. Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Delorean Stalling Out
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: delorean fuel
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. RE: Delorean Stalling Out
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Reluctor Gap
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

11. RE: Question.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. Re: Delorean Stalling Out
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. RE: Thermistor Specs
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Re: delorean fuel
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

17. Re: Question.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

18. DCS 2006 Team 1 Engine rebuild contest
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Re: Delorean Stalling Out
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. RE: Delorean Stalling Out
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Question.
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

24. Re: Question.
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

25. RE: Delorean Fuel
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 10:46:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: High Idle


If you have the technical manual, it has a fantastic
"Idle Problem" checklist with all kinds of solutions. 
Unfortunately, this could be a number of things from
the air/fuel screw being off to microswitches not
being functional to the idle thermister not responding
(which, unfortunately was my case...).  If you need
that page of the tech manual, I'd be willing to scan
and send it to you; it's a real hassle saver.  It
could be as simple as a fuse being blown to the
electrical connectors next to the ignition coil
needing a little wiggle and tightening, to the idle
thermister in that wonderful location underneath the
intake m.  I'd start with the simple stuff - check all
fuses and relay, make sure they look good and
functional.  Then hit your idle speed screws near the
throttle - make sure they all are snug and tight:
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idleadj.jpg.
 Next, check the micro switch as this picture shows -
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idle-speed-adj.jpg.
 Make sure this switch is working as well:
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/full-throttle-sw.jpg.

Those are the "basics" more or less.  One thing that
can trip your idle pretty high is the air/fuel mixture
screw being too rich, but that I would think if left
faulty for too long would burn your plugs (richer =
higher idle).

Good luck!
Jeremiah


		
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 10:51:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Doc Hudkins <dochudkins_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean Fuel


According to a book I have on Bosch fuel injection
systems (well worth a read, and available on Dave's
Project Vixen site, by the way, I think), even if you
(like I) don't use the high-octane gas all the time,
it's a good idea to fill up every now and again
because of the benefits of the detergents. I have done
this in my vehicles and have never had much of a
problem with gunking anything up, aside from regular
ol' carbon deposits.

Farrar

--- Scott Mueller <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> As I recall, some years back all grades of a
> gasoline brand were required to
> have the same concentration of the "additives".  The
> only difference was the
> octane rating.  Shell sells V-Power and
> Chevron-Texaco sells Techron.  I
> prefer Chevron.  The key is to use the name brand
> gasoline's that have the
> "Detergents".  The generic gasoline may come from
> the same loading rack as
> the name brand, it just doesn't have the additives.



		
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 11:24:41 -0800 (PST)
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thermistor Specs


Does anyone know the ohms  the idle thermistor should
read across the temperature range?

Jon





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 11:51:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Question.


Hey everyone.

As I've began to learn more and more about my car, I
was part of a recent discussion with other owners
about the "lights always on" behind the A/C panel. 
Seeing as how Jordan's site just came back, he had the
procedure laid out for me at
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/aclightfix.html.
 I have been advised from other owners of other ways
of doing this by simply cutting the center spade off 
and re-inserting the relay.

My question is not who is right or not; my question is
in regards to the note at the bottom of Jordan's
instructions for this procedure: "Completion:    This
will not fix the constant on light for automatic
transmissions".  

Well guess what, I have an auto.  Is there any way to
pursue this same accomplishment of killing the
"constant" A/C on lights on an auto?  I'd love to do
this to keep my panel from getting all warped and
crazy.

Thank you.
Jeremiah



		
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 12:02:51 -0800
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean fuel


> You're correct, but not entirely accurate - higher octane means a slower 
> burn but it does contain more chemical energy, therefore an engine 
> that's set up to take advantage of it will be more powerful than an 
> identical engine tuned to use regular fuel. If you run an engine set up 
> for Super on regular, it will damage it.

No, sorry.  No offense intended, but completely incorrect.  Heptane (i.e., the rest of the fuel) contains more chemical energy than Octane, so the higher the octane, the less chemical energy per unit mass.

The reason for the octane is that it's more compressible before spontaneously combusting -- thus it's necessary in high-compression engines where lower-octane fuel would auto-ignite before the spark.  (This is what causes the "knocking" noise.)  

High compression permits smaller engines to output more power, because the power is basically a function of how much fuel and air you can cram into the cylinder.  Higher compression ratios are one means of achieving this.  Forced induction (turbochargers, supercharges, etc.) are another.  None of this matters to your stock PRV, though, because it was designed to use 87 (RON) octane fuel.  Anything beyond that is really a waste of money.

Regards,
Owen





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 20:04:09 -0000
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission



Hi, my Delorean had to sit for three months and when I tired to drive
it the other day I couldn't get the transmission in reverse, forward
gears work ok except for 5th.  Has anyone had this problem on not
being able to get reverse?  Also if you have and have fixed it, how do
you access the shift linkage..from underneath the car...is it exposed
or covered up?

Thanks!
Mike	

#5781








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 20:10:56 -0000
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean Stalling Out



Hi, does anyone know what the problem might be when d 
coming to a stoplight with my manual D I stop and down shift from
second to first and the engine a lot of times will cut off.  It starts
up ok but the problem is annoying and a bit scary.
 
Thanks,
Mike
#5781








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 20:36:57 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: delorean fuel



 If you run an engine set up 
> for Super on regular, it will damage it.
> 
> Just my 2p
> 
> Martin
> 
I disagree- an engine will not receive any damage running 87 instead
of 93, 104, etc., OR the other way around. I have a extremely
expensive Ford 390FE engine now a 447 after the stroker with the
combination of custom pistons, cam and heads I chose, I'm supposed to
run at least 97, runs best with 104-this is only because of the
performance-not damage. The lower the octane you use for a high rated
octane engine, it will run horribly and provide less performance (just
ask a professional machine shop). Gasoline only enters the engine
through the intake and valves (or FI system), sits on the piston until
it explodes and then is gone; higher density (higher octane) the
better performance as well as fuel economy you’ll have-no damage
either way higher or lower. If you have a poorly built or designed
engine that's going to start knocking anyway, manufactures will tell
you to use higher octane only- to prolong the inevitable knock
otherwise, they will tell you to use higher octane so you’ll get the
performance (especially on turbo engines). Now if you were to run
leaded fuel in an unleaded car then you'll have valve seat problems,
if you run unleaded in a leaded car-you'll just have noisy valves, no
damage. Also- Higher octane DOES clean some of your engine-it is a
proven fact that the added detergents clean & keep clean parts of the
engine. -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 14:47:56 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Stalling Out


Fuel mixture screw is most likely set to lean and the control plunger is
going down to far. Enrich about 1/8th turn clock.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: cambpd [mailto:cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 2:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Delorean Stalling Out





Hi, does anyone know what the problem might be when d
coming to a stoplight with my manual D I stop and down shift from
second to first and the engine a lot of times will cut off.  It starts
up ok but the problem is annoying and a bit scary.

Thanks,
Mike
#5781








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 15:50:10 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Reluctor Gap


Does anyone know how the engine would run if the reluctor gap was too big or 
too small.  (Other than not running at all or smashing the reluctor...)

Thank you

D & 6530 (& 2700)





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 14:53:09 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Question.


If your talking about the center consol light, use a 4 prong relay or snip
off the terminal.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 1:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Question.




Hey everyone.

As I've began to learn more and more about my car, I
was part of a recent discussion with other owners
about the "lights always on" behind the A/C panel.
Seeing as how Jordan's site just came back, he had the
procedure laid out for me at
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/aclightfix.html.
 I have been advised from other owners of other ways
of doing this by simply cutting the center spade off
and re-inserting the relay.

My question is not who is right or not; my question is
in regards to the note at the bottom of Jordan's
instructions for this procedure: "Completion:    This
will not fix the constant on light for automatic
transmissions".

Well guess what, I have an auto.  Is there any way to
pursue this same accomplishment of killing the
"constant" A/C on lights on an auto?  I'd love to do
this to keep my panel from getting all warped and
crazy.

Thank you.
Jeremiah




__________________________________
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Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 20:42:50 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission



Adjust your shift linkage, it is likely to be the adjustment right on
the back of the MT, large nuts that with either shorten or legnthen
the cable-will move the shifter further left or right. If there is any
car that you'd really benefit having a workshop manual on, this is one
of them! -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, my Delorean had to sit for three months and when I tired to drive
> it the other day I couldn't get the transmission in reverse, forward
> gears work ok except for 5th.  Has anyone had this problem on not
> being able to get reverse?  Also if you have and have fixed it, how do
> you access the shift linkage..from underneath the car...is it exposed
> or covered up?
> 
> Thanks!
> Mike	
> 
> #5781








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 21:02:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Stalling Out



Sounds like something a tune-up would probably take care of. It could
be anything from something out of adjustment to worn spark plugs to a
dirty air filter or even vacuum leaks. How long HAS it been since a
tune-up? This is not normal behavior for a good-runnig Delorean. With
the idle system and everything running right they do not stall.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, does anyone know what the problem might be when d 
> coming to a stoplight with my manual D I stop and down shift from
> second to first and the engine a lot of times will cut off.  It starts
> up ok but the problem is annoying and a bit scary.
>  
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #5781








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 20:57:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission



Most of what you have to get to is only accessable from underneath.
First of all I have to assume you know how to get into reverse. You
must lift the knob up to get past the gate which is supposed to
prevent getting into reverse accidently. Generally most shifting
problems are fixed by properly adjusting the linkage. In some cases
you have to dismantle, clean, lubricate, reassemble, and then adjust.
The worst case is damage to the shifting mechanism inside the
transmission, usually from forcing it into gear because of the plastic
clutch line. You have to remove and dismantle the trans to replace the
worn roll pin. Easy to check. Disconnect the linkage on the
transmission. You should be able to shift it easily right at the
trans. If you can't then you may have to go in and fix it. If it does
shift easily the problem is in the linkage and that is more easily
fixed. The linkage under the car is not "covered up" but you do have
to work in a small area.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, my Delorean had to sit for three months and when I tired to drive
> it the other day I couldn't get the transmission in reverse, forward
> gears work ok except for 5th.  Has anyone had this problem on not
> being able to get reverse?  Also if you have and have fixed it, how do
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 14:51:11 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Thermistor Specs


I can tell you at room temp the ones I have new read about 7800 ohms.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: JDub [mailto:doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 1:25 PM
To: DML
Subject: [DML] Thermistor Specs




Does anyone know the ohms  the idle thermistor should
read across the temperature range?

Jon





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 15:20:55 -0600
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean fuel


I'm not quite sure what your saying here but basically if you use a fuel
without octane enhancers it ignites faster.The faster it ignites, the
farther from top dead center it happens. At some point you're trying to
drive the piston down while it's still coming up. That's not good. Adding
higher compression or higher intake temps as with a turbo contributes to
faster ignition. In that case you need to tone down the fuel with octane
enhancers. Newer engine management systems like obII will compensate and
retard spark but a turbo DeLorean will have problems with low octane fuel.
Older cars designed with leaded gas in mind relied on the lead to lubricate
the valves. Running them on unleaded for any length of time requires
hardened valve seats or there will be eventual problems. The DeLorean is too
new to have that problem. I may have mis-understood what you said here but I
think your wrong in saying the only consequence is poor performance. You
absolutely can damage an engine running too low an octane and an old vehicle
without hardened valve seats will have problems before long if run on a diet
of unleaded fuel.

Bruce Benson

 >Gasoline only enters the engine
>through the intake and valves (or FI system), sits on the >piston until
>it explodes and then is gone; higher density (higher >octane) the
>better performance as well as fuel economy you?Tll >have-no damage
>either way higher or lower. If you have a poorly built or >designed
>engine that's going to start knocking anyway, >manufactures will tell
>you to use higher octane only- to prolong the inevitable >knock
>otherwise, they will tell you to use higher octane so >you?Tll get the
>performance (especially on turbo engines). Now if you >were to run
>leaded fuel in an unleaded car then you'll have valve seat >problems,
>if you run unleaded in a leaded car-you'll just have noisy >valves, no
>damage. Also- Higher octane DOES clean some of >your engine-it is a
>proven fact that the added detergents clean & keep >clean parts of the
>engine. -----Dani B. #5003













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 21:30:52 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Question.



You can do all of that, or you can just replace the lights with 
LED's. They make no heat and draw very little current. For purposes 
of illuminating the console they are just as bright in my opinion.
They are also inexpensive and last darned near forever.

See:

www.superbrightleds.com 

Hope that helps.
Rich A.
#5335
PS- I am not affiliated with the above vendor.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> As I've began to learn more and more about my car, I
> was part of a recent discussion with other owners
> about the "lights always on" behind the A/C panel. 
> Seeing as how Jordan's site just came back, he had the
> procedure laid out for me at
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/aclightfix.html.
>  I have been advised from other owners of other ways
> of doing this by simply cutting the center spade off 
> and re-inserting the relay.
> 
> My question is not who is right or not; my question is
> in regards to the note at the bottom of Jordan's
> instructions for this procedure: "Completion:    This
> will not fix the constant on light for automatic
> transmissions".  
> 
> Well guess what, I have an auto.  Is there any way to
> pursue this same accomplishment of killing the
> "constant" A/C on lights on an auto?  I'd love to do
> this to keep my panel from getting all warped and
> crazy.
> 
> Thank you.
> Jeremiah
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 21:42:35 +0000
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS 2006 Team 1 Engine rebuild contest


I have been notified off line that we have team 1 for the engine rebuild and we have two engines already.

The first team is on the East Coast and I will let them announce the members whenever they decide that (no rush we have a year and a half) 

Jim Reeve has volunteered to do the electronic box to fire it up on a test stand and I have one wire harness so all we need now is a second engine wire  harness 

It would help to have a full harness as well but that is nice and not required

HEY JOSH DO I STILL HAVE ANY WIRE HARNESSES

So this is a done deal as long as we don
t have any insurance issues and it will be done outdoors under a tent if necessary.

 we still need team 2 again no rush 

Ken





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 13:42:41 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission


Thank you very much David.  To access the linkage
should I jack the car up from the front or the rear?
What ever happened to reverse had something to do with
it sitting for 3 months.  I don't have it inspected
yet (Maryland) because of all the work that needs to
be done to it. But I have been starting it up once a
week, guess that wasn't enought. Like everyone says on
this site, the worst thing for a Delorean is to let it
sit.
I have been very gentle shifting the car and would
sometimes have fifth gear grind.  I drove the car 25
miles to another house this past weekend after we
pushed it out of the driveway.  Found that I couldn't
get the car into 5th gear either.  I've had three or
four cars with manual trans in my life so I a
competent with shifting.

Thanks again for you advice!

Mike
#5781
  
--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Most of what you have to get to is only accessable
> from underneath.
> First of all I have to assume you know how to get
> into reverse. You
> must lift the knob up to get past the gate which is
> supposed to
> prevent getting into reverse accidently. Generally
> most shifting
> problems are fixed by properly adjusting the
> linkage. In some cases
> you have to dismantle, clean, lubricate, reassemble,
> and then adjust.
> The worst case is damage to the shifting mechanism
> inside the
> transmission, usually from forcing it into gear
> because of the plastic
> clutch line. You have to remove and dismantle the
> trans to replace the
> worn roll pin. Easy to check. Disconnect the linkage
> on the
> transmission. You should be able to shift it easily
> right at the
> trans. If you can't then you may have to go in and
> fix it. If it does
> shift easily the problem is in the linkage and that
> is more easily
> fixed. The linkage under the car is not "covered up"
> but you do have
> to work in a small area.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd"
> <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, my Delorean had to sit for three months and
> when I tired to drive
> > it the other day I couldn't get the transmission
> in reverse, forward
> > gears work ok except for 5th.  Has anyone had this
> problem on not
> > being able to get reverse?  Also if you have and
> have fixed it, how do
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 13:45:44 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission


Thanks Dani for the advice.  And I do have the shop
manual for it but it's been too cold outside to work
on it.

Mike
#7581

--- stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Adjust your shift linkage, it is likely to be the
> adjustment right on
> the back of the MT, large nuts that with either
> shorten or legnthen
> the cable-will move the shifter further left or
> right. If there is any
> car that you'd really benefit having a workshop
> manual on, this is one
> of them! -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd"
> <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, my Delorean had to sit for three months and
> when I tired to drive
> > it the other day I couldn't get the transmission
> in reverse, forward
> > gears work ok except for 5th.  Has anyone had this
> problem on not
> > being able to get reverse?  Also if you have and
> have fixed it, how do
> > you access the shift linkage..from underneath the
> car...is it exposed
> > or covered up?
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > Mike	
> > 
> > #5781
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 13:49:27 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Stalling Out


Thanks David.  Good question, I've had the car since
last March and have never had it tuned up.  I replaced
the warm up regulator to fix a starting problem and
thought it would fix the stall problem too, then
realized that the car stalls when it is warmed up.
Off hand, can you tell me where the distrbitor is in
relation to the black plastic engine cover?

Mike
#5781
--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like something a tune-up would probably take
> care of. It could
> be anything from something out of adjustment to worn
> spark plugs to a
> dirty air filter or even vacuum leaks. How long HAS
> it been since a
> tune-up? This is not normal behavior for a
> good-runnig Delorean. With
> the idle system and everything running right they do
> not stall.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd"
> <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, does anyone know what the problem might be
> when d 
> > coming to a stoplight with my manual D I stop and
> down shift from
> > second to first and the engine a lot of times will
> cut off.  It starts
> > up ok but the problem is annoying and a bit scary.
> >  
> > Thanks,
> > Mike
> > #5781
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 13:57:30 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Stalling Out


Thanks John, can you tell me where in relation to the
black plastic engine cover is the Fuel mixture screw. 
Also is there damage done to the engine by running it
with a blown donut gasket off the manifold?

Mike
#5781
--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> Fuel mixture screw is most likely set to lean and
> the control plunger is
> going down to far. Enrich about 1/8th turn clock.
> John Hervey
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cambpd [mailto:cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 2:11 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Delorean Stalling Out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, does anyone know what the problem might be when
> d
> coming to a stoplight with my manual D I stop and
> down shift from
> second to first and the engine a lot of times will
> cut off.  It starts
> up ok but the problem is annoying and a bit scary.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #5781
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 17:23:33 -0500
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: Question.


I ended up just using led replacement lamps. Now I don't care if the lights
are on, there is no heat buildup. A more elegant solution then jumping the
fuses.

Mike Walsh
#17084
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Enid/Jeremiah" <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 2:51 PM
Subject: [DML] Question.


>
>
> Hey everyone.
>
> As I've began to learn more and more about my car, I
> was part of a recent discussion with other owners
> about the "lights always on" behind the A/C panel.
> Seeing as how Jordan's site just came back, he had the
> procedure laid out for me at
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/aclightfix.html.
>  I have been advised from other owners of other ways
> of doing this by simply cutting the center spade off
> and re-inserting the relay.
>
> My question is not who is right or not; my question is
> in regards to the note at the bottom of Jordan's
> instructions for this procedure: "Completion:    This
> will not fix the constant on light for automatic
> transmissions".
>
> Well guess what, I have an auto.  Is there any way to
> pursue this same accomplishment of killing the
> "constant" A/C on lights on an auto?  I'd love to do
> this to keep my panel from getting all warped and
> crazy.
>
> Thank you.
> Jeremiah
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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>
>
>
>
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> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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www.dmcnews.com
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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>
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 22:51:51 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Question.



I performed this mod on my automatic quite a while back, and it worked
fine (mine is early style; YMMV).  I don't recall if it made the gear
select light turn off or not though.  Since then, I've replaced the
relay, as I have installed LEDs in all center console lighting,
including the gear shift.  I like this much better.

--Greg
#2894

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> As I've began to learn more and more about my car, I
> was part of a recent discussion with other owners
> about the "lights always on" behind the A/C panel. 
> Seeing as how Jordan's site just came back, he had the
> procedure laid out for me at
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/aclightfix.html.
>  I have been advised from other owners of other ways
> of doing this by simply cutting the center spade off 
> and re-inserting the relay.
> 
> My question is not who is right or not; my question is
> in regards to the note at the bottom of Jordan's
> instructions for this procedure: "Completion:    This
> will not fix the constant on light for automatic
> transmissions".  
> 
> Well guess what, I have an auto.  Is there any way to
> pursue this same accomplishment of killing the
> "constant" A/C on lights on an auto?  I'd love to do
> this to keep my panel from getting all warped and
> crazy.
> 
> Thank you.
> Jeremiah









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 21:58:49 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Fuel



WOW! I really lit a fire with this topic didn't I.  Actually I 
appreciate the feedback about different fuels.  Here is a little bit 
of history with my car.  When I first bought it about six months 
ago, the owner told me that he only used 91 octane and he had it for 
12 years.  It seemed to be running fine at that point, no pings or 
knocks it ran very smooth, only gas mileage was pretty bad I 
averaged about 13 mpg at first.  I thought that was a little odd.  
When it came time for filling up I decided to try 87 first and that 
is when all heck broke loose.  I all of a sudden had starting 
problems, it stalled, gas mileage went from the 13 to 8 mpg, and it 
ran very rough.  Obviously something was very wrong.  I went back to 
the 91, but I guess that the damage had already been done.  It 
wasn't burning all of the fuel in the chambers and I had horrible 
emissions.  It's a good thing I didn't need to get it smogged any 
time soon.  I even had unburned gasoline coming out the exhaust 
pipes.  Really bad.  You might say that was just condensation and I 
thought that at first to but I actually caught some  in a cup while 
I was running the engine to figure out what was wrong and it was gas!

I immediately took it to a mechanic and found out what the problem 
was.  The other owner had never used any sort of fuel system 
treatments or cleaners at all.  Because he ran 91 octane the engine 
got used to running with that fuel and the deposits that had built 
up over time.  He had just over 60k miles on it when I bought it.  
So when I put in the 87 the engine basically didn't know what to do 
and it basically pushed through a bunch of carbon and other gunk 
that was fowling up the fuel injection and spark.  I let them do a 
full decarb on the engine and then I took it home and did a full 
fuel system cleanout.  Remember my post about that fuel filter?  
Cleaned out the injectors, manifold, air induction, and now she 
purrs, and my MPG went up from 8 to 24.  Nice increase.  However, I 
have taken to using 91 Cheveron with Techron.  I probably could try 
87 again, but I'm a little wary.

Japheth VIN: 1223








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