From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2439
Date: Thursday, January 20, 2005 7:47 PM

There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean Mentioned in Bush Election Article
From: "p12c16" <>

2. Delorean in MAXIM
From: "minox8x11" <>

3. RE: Delorean Stalling Out
From: Enid/Jeremiah <>

From: "Carl Davis" <>

5. Re: Delorean in MAXIM
From: "Eric" <>

6. Re: Re: delorean fuel
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

7. auto lift
From: Travis Graham <>

8. Brass screw and rocker question
From: "stainlessilusion" <>

9. Re: High Idle
From: JDub <>

10. Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission (DMC Joe)
From: "content22207" <>

11. Re: Delorean Stalling Out (DMC Joe)
From: "content22207" <>

12. Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)
From: "content22207" <>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 17:25:08 -0000
From: "p12c16" <>
Subject: DeLorean Mentioned in Bush Election Article

Just thought you all might like to see this one:



Message: 2
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 18:11:09 -0000
From: "minox8x11" <>
Subject: Delorean in MAXIM

In the Feb '05 issue on pg. 40 there is a delorean pictured. 


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 12:54:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <>
Subject: RE: Delorean Stalling Out

The distributor is behind/underneath the fuel
distributor (the "spider" with all the fuel lines). 
You'll need to disconnect the mixture control unit
(rectangle where the fuel distributor is attached) to
access the electrical distributor.  Just take off the
mixture control unit with the fuel distributor
ATTACHED to it.  If you do that, you should be able to
access the electrical distributor fairly easily.

I don't know about the damage that may/may not be
caused by a blown donut gasket.  I had an exhaust leak
on my driver's side - under cylinder 4 or 6 I believe.
 My engine temperature never got to "160" (unmarked
line between 100 and 220) - my fans stayed on
constantly, turning off maybe once a month when
driving.  Coolant hoses swelled due to heat, otterstat
(in theory) melted and died because my leak was
hitting it dead on for almost half a year.  

This was all a gasket leak underneath the engine;
yours is a bit different, but I would drive with a
little caution.  Don't stay up all night about it,
just inspect your car each time you go for a drive
just to be safe.  Preventative maintenance keeps these
cars running much longer.

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 16:37:44 -0500
From: "Carl Davis" <>

Hello i was wondering if anyone knew of a mechanic/welder in the Saint Augustine,Fl  area  who knows about Deloreans. thanks for any help

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 22:16:36 -0000
From: "Eric" <>
Subject: Re: Delorean in MAXIM

--- In, "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> In the Feb '05 issue on pg. 40 there is a delorean pictured.

Yeah, they fudged it though and called it a "1978" DeLorean, and put
the engine up front in the drawing.  ;-)

Eric C


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 22:04:45 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean fuel

No - that's what "advance" is. The time it takes fuel to burn in the 
cylinders is exactly the same regardless of engine speed (roughly). 
Therefore the faster the engine is spinning, the earlier you have to 
light up the air/fuel mixture. The mission is to light up the mixture 
such that the point when it reaches the maximum expansion, the piston is 
exactly halfway down on the downstroke. However to achieve this, you 
light up the mixture BTDC or before top dead centre..

Have a read of the articles at for some excellent 
explanations of stuff like this. Specifically


stainlessilusion wrote:

> If
>the engine is trying to ignite fuel while the piston is still on its
>way up-the engine won't run at all or kickback. -----Dani B.


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 18:18:26 -0600
From: Travis Graham <>
Subject: auto lift

Hello everyone,

I'm in the market for a lift suitable for my DeLorean.  I know some of 
you have lifts and I'm curious what kind you have and what you think of 

I want a 2 post lift and due to the facility, mine will have to be a 
surface-mounted unit.  It'll also have to be suitable for lifting 
bigger Land Rovers too...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks,
Travis Graham


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:22:20 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <>
Subject: Brass screw and rocker question

I'm slowly making headway with the way my engine is running. I pulled
the intake off again to inspect the "O" ring that the "Auxiliary air
pipe" goes through. Seemed to sit pretty worn so I replaced the ring
with a similar one and coated it with oil in hopes of it to expand
while it's in there. Upon reassembly, I noticed there are sparks
flying around where the cap touches the mixture control unit. To fix
this I just unbolted and lifted the unit up a bit-and I got my
cylinder back to firing. QUESTION: In the book it mentions that the
air adjustment screw is supposed to be fully seated along with the 2
balance screws-are these the brass screws the book is talking about?
It is idling much lower now, and while holding an RPM it is much
smoother but still a little crackle here and there. While idling it
still vibrates like hell. Another question-when the book says the
rockers are supposed to be "on the rock", that means that the rocker
is supposed to be on the top of the lobe right? -Dani B. #5003-almost


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 16:40:23 -0800 (PST)
From: JDub <>
Subject: Re: High Idle

The stop screw is backed all the way out.

I tested for leaks in the butterflies today.  Here's
what I did:

I took off the throttle body and fed 5psi of air in to
the vacuum port on the bottom of it.  While holding
the throttle body down on a piece of cardboard I
sprayed soapy water down on to the butterflies and
could see bubbles coming from all around them and from
the shafts on the left and right sides.  I still don't
know if this is enough of a leak to make the engine
idle high, what do you think? Should the shafts seal


--- David Teitelbaum <> wrote:

> The most likely reason for air to be getting past
> the throttle plates
> is that the stop screw on the throttle arm is not
> adjusted properly
> allowing the plates to be cracked open a little. You
> might also have a
> decel valve that is dirty and leaking. They are
> those little thingies
> with the springs on the throttle plates. They should
> move freely and
> seal tight.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In, JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> > 
> > So I did a little test today, I put a piece of
> > cardboard between the throttle body and the air
> > metering unit.  I hooked back up the idle speed
> motor
> > and the car idled perfect! Right on 775 RPMS.  So
> I
> > now know the problem is with air getting by the
> > butterflies in the throttle body.  Do you think
> it's
> > possible those spring loaded little thingys could
> be
> > defective?  I guess it could still be air slipping
> by
> > t
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> Yahoo! Groups Links


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:34:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Can't Get Reverse With My D Manual Transmission (DMC Joe)

On the shift gate cable topic, here's a neat little mod:

You know the triangular bracket that holds it from above the
transmission housing (the one with the 8mm Bolt From Hell)...

Per factory design, that bracket can not be re-installed without first
running the shift gate cable through it endwise (assuming you leave
the cable attached to the shift lever). But it's then nearly
impossible to re-install the bracket (8mm Bolt From Hell). The bracket
does have a sideways access slot already cut into it -- it's just a
*FRACTION* too small to slip the threaded portion of the shift gate
cable through.

Modification: While the transmission is out of the car, file that
access slot just a little bit wider (wide enough for the shift gate
cable to slip through). Do the same with the access slot in the long
bracket that holds it from below. You can now easily attach the
triangular bracket while the 8mm Bolt From Hell is accessible with the
transmission on the ground. Re-install the transmission with that
bracket already in place, slip the shift gate cable sideways into it
through the widened access slot, then secure it from below with the
other bracket. 

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Mike,
> Your problem is related to the operation of the "crossgate cable"
4/2/0 #34
> and or its associated linkage.
> If this cable should move freely when selecting either reverse or
5th gear.
> The cable and associated linkage is accessible from under the car.
> Reference information can be found in the workshop manual F:07:01.
> DMC Joe 


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:50:33 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Delorean Stalling Out (DMC Joe)

I totally agree -- problem could well be the idle speed motor.

My Z7V (B27E) came with CIS grafted onto it in lieu of 
an aux air valve. Was hard wired always active because the fuel/air
mixture unit had no place to attach a microswitch (totally different
throttle plate casting). Throttle plate bracket didn't have a screw to
trip one anyway. Worked OKish for a while, but became very twitchy
within a couple of months. One day the idle speed motor stuck closed
at a stop light. Of course totally killed the engine. Had to crack the
throttle plates open with the accelerator pedal at every stop to limp

That's when I figured out what the "forbidden" brass screws are for
(which on European spec PRV's of that vintage are MEANT to be used).

I too recommend troubleshooting CIS first (if worse comes to worse you
can drive the car off the manual idle circuit or simply crack the
throttle plates open with the lower set screw until it is again

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> STOP! I don't believe anyone has mentioned your idle speed circuit.
> making any adjustments be sure that the idle speed circuit is working
> properly. 
> List members; you should never suggest that an owner make
adjustments that
> may degrade the operation of the engine in hopes of finding the
source of a
> problem. A good example is Mikes stalling problem. If he makes
> i.e. timing, CO adjust, and other changes and the problem turns out
to be
> something like a failed idle speed motor you may be contributing to
> many new problems that could be worse than the original problem.
> DMC Joe 


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:04:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)

Slight clarification:

13 degree BTDC base time is due to the hobbled DeLorean ignition
distributor (one centrifugal counter weight disabled), not PRV engine
design. Exact same engine (B28F) is base timed at 10 degrees in a
Volvo. DeLorean has a flatter advance curve, which requires moving all
sparks closer to cylinder bottom.

I'm guessing DMC did this for emissions. North American Volvo's used
EGR and air injection, both missing from Dunmurry's design.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>  The ignition process starts at the most opportune time to get the
force of
> the explosion to drive the piston down. In the DeLorean's case the
> hemispherical head design, which acts to control the burn rate and
> the energy produced, along with 87 octane fuel requires the ignition
burn to
> start at 13 degrees before top dead center. Thus, by the time the
> rotates the final 13 degrees and the piston is at top dead center the
> optimum force is developed to drive the piston down. When a faster
burn fuel
> mix is introduced the whole scenario can change. The optimum force
of the
> explosion can happen too soon before top dead center. When, for
example, a
> turbocharger is introduced into the mix the intake temps rise simply
> of the exhaust element being used as a power source and the fact
that temps
> rise as the incoming air is compressed. When you mix that with a low
> fuel you have a more volatile mix that will have an uncontrolled
> put a downward force on the piston while it still needs to get to
TDC. The
> result is loud pinging and if you don't back off the throttle you'll
> end up with anything from cracked rings to holes in pistons.
Needless to say
> this is all puts a lot of extra strain on the piston rods,
crankshaft and
> related bearings. Sometimes, if carbon deposits build up in the cyl head
> compression is raised and the engine pings on low octane fuel. This can
> happen if ,for extended periods, you've used high octane fuel in an
> designed for low octane fuel. The slower burn causes the carbon
build up and
> in a way the car has developed a dependency on high octane fuel.
> Bruce Benson
> >


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