From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2440
Date: Friday, January 21, 2005 5:25 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: auto lift
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: auto lift
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

3. Re: Brass screw and rocker question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Fuel boot bracket
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: High Idle
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. RE: auto lift
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Fw: Re: auto lift
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

8. Re: auto lift
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Brass screw and rocker question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Brass screw and rocker question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Fire at old Delorean Dealership
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. 2005 DeLorean Calendar
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Fire at Delorean dealership - update
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: Delorean Stalling Out
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

15. Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Individual car history
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

17. Re: Fuel boot bracket
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

18. Dead Delorean in NY
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: Dead Delorean in NY
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

20. Re: High Idle
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: delorean fuel (David T)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

23. Re: Individual car history
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>

24. Additional Thought Re: Ignition Timing (David T)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: auto lift
From: "joecellularjoe" <joecellularjoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:19:27 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: auto lift



Hi Travis

Here's mine - as seen on TV:

http://www.dmcnews.com/events/techweek03/techweek03.html

and

http://www.dmcnews.com/events/monstergt40_03/monsterhold.html

and the frame swap
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html

Rotary SPA-09 9000 pound asymetrical twin post lift. It lifts my 
Suburban just fine so a Land Rover would be easy.

Best thing I ever bought.

Twin post is the way to go - the bottom of the car is completely 
clear for suspension work and body lift-offs.

Dave



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I'm in the market for a lift suitable for my DeLorean.  I know some 
of 
> you have lifts and I'm curious what kind you have and what you 
think of 
> it.
> 
> I want a 2 post lift and due to the facility, mine will have to be 
a 
> surface-mounted unit. 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:32:44 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: auto lift



Along these same lines, what is the proper way to lift a DeLorean with
a 2 post lift?  My buddy just got one his in his garage, but the
DeLorean's lifting points are not listed in his book.  It seems scary
to be lifting the car by the fiberglass body.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I'm in the market for a lift suitable for my DeLorean.  I know some of 
> you have lifts and I'm curious what kind you have and what you think of 
> it.
> 
> I want a 2 post lift and due to the facility, mine will have to be a 
> surface-mounted unit.  It'll also have to be suitable for lifting 
> bigger Land Rovers too...
> 
> Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Many thanks,
> Travis Graham








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:34:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Brass screw and rocker question



Have you ever considered replacing your plug wires? Electricity is
supposed to go to the spark plugs, not arc all over the engine. I
think it's safe to say you're not firing on all 6 cylinders.

"On the rock" simply means camshaft lobe contact with the valve stem.
Notice that intake and exhaust valves overlap. This is where the
supposed value of "backpressure" comes from (pulling cylinder contents
out for that brief moment pressure is equalized). It's also where true
backfires (through the intake) come from.

You're not going to hurt anything by adjusting valve lash (make sure
you're at the low part of each lobe), but I suspect your problems are
electrical.

What will fixing them do to your big carburetor conversion?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm slowly making headway with the way my engine is running. I pulled
> the intake off again to inspect the "O" ring that the "Auxiliary air
> pipe" goes through. Seemed to sit pretty worn so I replaced the ring
> with a similar one and coated it with oil in hopes of it to expand
> while it's in there. Upon reassembly, I noticed there are sparks
> flying around where the cap touches the mixture control unit. To fix
> this I just unbolted and lifted the unit up a bit-and I got my
> cylinder back to firing. QUESTION: In the book it mentions that the
> air adjustment screw is supposed to be fully seated along with the 2
> balance screws-are these the brass screws the book is talking about?
> It is idling much lower now, and while holding an RPM it is much
> smoother but still a little crackle here and there. While idling it
> still vibrates like hell. Another question-when the book says the
> rockers are supposed to be "on the rock", that means that the rocker
> is supposed to be on the top of the lobe right? -Dani B. #5003-almost
> fixed!








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 20:35:37 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Fuel boot bracket


I just recieved a fuel boot bracket from DMCH 
Its stainless and really nice, (NEW PART)
NO MORE RUST IN THE TANK

I am not sure if they are avail to everyone yet so I know I got one of the 
early ones.
But if they are not I am sure DMCH will let you know when they are 

NICE 

is all I can say 

I am tired of replacing them with ones that will rust again anyway

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 02:06:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: High Idle



Are you sure the big O rings on your U pipes are the right size, and
in good condition? Make sure you have spacers behind each one, and
that the spacers are located towards the U pipes, not the throttle
plate housing. FWIW I never could get a 100% seal on mine, so I made a
custom "figure 8" gasket to force the O rings a little bit closer and
also seal the aluminum mating surfaces.

The nipple you were blowing through is ported vacuum. On the PRV it
never closes (is located upstream of the throttle plates). When the
throttle plates open over it, vacuum is allowed through (dropping with
overall decreasing engine vaccum). If you sprayed soapy water on the
upstream side (towards the air sensor plate) of course you'd see bubbles.

The throttle plate shaft is made of steel. The throttle plate housing
is made of aluminum. Rotating motion will inevitably wear oblong holes
over time. Sorry (happens on carburetors too).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> The stop screw is backed all the way out.
> 
> I tested for leaks in the butterflies today.  Here's
> what I did:
> 
> I took off the throttle body and fed 5psi of air in to
> the vacuum port on the bottom of it.  While holding
> the throttle body down on a piece of cardboard I
> sprayed soapy water down on to the butterflies and
> could see bubbles coming from all around them and from
> the shafts on the left and right sides.  I still don't
> know if this is enough of a leak to make the engine
> idle high, what do you think? Should the shafts seal
> %100?
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The most likely reason for air to be getting past
> > the throttle plates
> > is that the stop screw on the throttle arm is not
> > adjusted properly
> > allowing the plates to be cracked open a little. You
> > might also have a
> > decel valve that is dirty and leaking. They are
> > those little thingies
> > with the springs on the throttle plates. They should
> > move freely and
> > seal tight.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_y...>
> > wrote:
> > > 
> > > So I did a little test today, I put a piece of
> > > cardboard between the throttle body and the air
> > > metering unit.  I hooked back up the idle speed
> > motor
> > > and the car idled perfect! Right on 775 RPMS.  So
> > I
> > > now know the problem is with air getting by the
> > > butterflies in the throttle body.  Do you think
> > it's
> > > possible those spring loaded little thingys could
> > be
> > > defective?  I guess it could still be air slipping
> > by
> > > t
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 20:21:15 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: auto lift


Search these guys:

http://harborfreight.com/

>From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] auto lift
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 18:18:26 -0600
>
>
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I'm in the market for a lift suitable for my DeLorean.  I know some of
>you have lifts and I'm curious what kind you have and what you think of
>it.
>
>I want a 2 post lift and due to the facility, mine will have to be a
>surface-mounted unit.  It'll also have to be suitable for lifting
>bigger Land Rovers too...
>
>Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Many thanks,
>Travis Graham
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 22:12:34 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Fw: Re: auto lift




 
I too have had the Rotary 9000 lift for about 7 years now. In fact I liked it so much I removed mine in Illinois and had it shipped here to  Florida. My wife and I reinstalled it here in Jacksonville so it is not really a big job. It is great to also use for car storage when you need to get an extra one in the garage from hurricanes. 
The Rotary people are great. I purchased mine from a Wal Mart store which was relocating and one call to Rotary and they sent me a manual and installation procedures for free!

As far as jacking points , just set the lift pads on the metal jacking points that are under the car near the wheel wells. I have had my car on this for literally months at a time with no issues.

Like Dave , it is the best car tool I have ever made, and as you get older you will also grow to appreciate it more!


Cecil Longwisch
#10663











To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2005 8:19 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: auto lift





  Hi Travis

  Here's mine - as seen on TV:

  http://www.dmcnews.com/events/techweek03/techweek03.html<http://www.dmcnews.com/events/techweek03/techweek03.html>

  and

  http://www.dmcnews.com/events/monstergt40_03/monsterhold.html<http://www.dmcnews.com/events/monstergt40_03/monsterhold.html>

  and the frame swap
  http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html>

  Rotary SPA-09 9000 pound asymetrical twin post lift. It lifts my 
  Suburban just fine so a Land Rover would be easy.

  Best thing I ever bought.

  Twin post is the way to go - the bottom of the car is completely 
  clear for suspension work and body lift-offs.

  Dave



  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n<mailto:tgraham_at_dml_n>...> wrote:
  > 
  > Hello everyone,
  > 
  > I'm in the market for a lift suitable for my DeLorean.  I know some 
  of 
  > you have lifts and I'm curious what kind you have and what you 
  think of 
  > it.
  > 
  > I want a 2 post lift and due to the facility, mine will have to be 
  a 
  > surface-mounted unit. 








  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 03:55:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: auto lift



I use the 4 lift pads. Just don't take the body bolts out first! 
Fiberglass is fine. 

I have a car in the garage, on the lift, where it's been since 
Thanksgiving (I work slow).

It looks like this but not stainless:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Along these same lines, what is the proper way to lift a DeLorean 
with
> a 2 post lift?  My buddy just got one his in his garage, but the
> DeLorean's lifting points are not listed in his book.  It seems 
scary
> to be lifting the car by the fiberglass body.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 03:02:09 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Brass screw and rocker question



Thanks Bill for your reply. Let me explain a little...I'd like to have
the engine running good with the FI setup, that way; should I ever
need to install it again I know it works, Or if I sell the setup to
someone, I know I'm not giving them something that is junk. OR, if I
can't get my hands on a manifold I'm not totally screwed with nothing.
The wires-brand new 8mm from special T, problem is that the contact
between the wire on the cap and the control unit wore the boot down a
little, so that was the only wire that was sparking-now fixed. I ask
about "On the rock" simply because-when I was doing the valve
adjustment (they are already done) and the book said the #5 should be
on the rock-I imagined that the #5 rocker would be on the camshaft
lobe.-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Have you ever considered replacing your plug wires? Electricity is
> supposed to go to the spark plugs, not arc all over the engine. I
> think it's safe to say you're not firing on all 6 cylinders.
> 
> "On the rock" simply means camshaft lobe contact with the valve stem.
> Notice that intake and exhaust valves overlap. This is where the
> supposed value of "backpressure" comes from (pulling cylinder contents
> out for that brief moment pressure is equalized). It's also where true
> backfires (through the intake) come from.
> 
> You're not going to hurt anything by adjusting valve lash (make sure
> you're at the low part of each lobe), but I suspect your problems are
> electrical.
> 
> What will fixing them do to your big carburetor conversion?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I'm slowly making headway with the way my engine is running. I pulled
> > the intake off again to inspect the "O" ring that the "Auxiliary air
> > pipe" goes through. Seemed to sit pretty worn so I replaced the ring
> > with a similar one and coated it with oil in hopes of it to expand
> > while it's in there. Upon reassembly, I noticed there are sparks
> > flying around where the cap touches the mixture control unit. To fix
> > this I just unbolted and lifted the unit up a bit-and I got my
> > cylinder back to firing. QUESTION: In the book it mentions that the
> > air adjustment screw is supposed to be fully seated along with the 2
> > balance screws-are these the brass screws the book is talking about?
> > It is idling much lower now, and while holding an RPM it is much
> > smoother but still a little crackle here and there. While idling it
> > still vibrates like hell. Another question-when the book says the
> > rockers are supposed to be "on the rock", that means that the rocker
> > is supposed to be on the top of the lobe right? -Dani B. #5003-almost
> > fixed!








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 05:13:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brass screw and rocker question



If you saw sparks flying around you probably need a new cap and rotor
and maybe even ignition wires. That would cause the bad quality idle.
"O" rings are not supposed to expand. You really do have to have the
correct size "O" ring, one that is "close" won't work. Make sure the
pipe is smooth and round where it seals against the "O" ring. The 3
brass screws are for adjusting the idle air but for the Delorean they
are ONLY used for setting up the mixture screw and then the lower one
is closed. The other 2 don't matter if the lower one is closed. You
can only adjust the rocker when the valve is closed so figure it out.
There is no clearance when the cam is opening the valve.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm slowly making headway with the way my engine is running. I pulled
> the intake off again to inspect the "O" ring that the "Auxiliary air
> pipe" goes through. Seemed to sit pretty worn so I replaced the ring
> with a similar one and coated it with oil in hopes of it to expand
> while it's in there. Upon reassembly, I noticed there are sparks
> flying around where the cap touches the mixture control unit. To fix
> this I just unbolted and lifted the unit up a bit-and I got my
> cylinder back to firing. QUESTION: In the book it mentions that the
> air adjustment screw is supposed to be fully seated along with the 2
> balance screws-are these the brass screws the book is talking about?
> It is idling much lower now, and while holding an RPM it is much
> smoother but still a little crackle here and there. While idling it
> still vibrates like hell. Another question-when the book says the
> rockers are supposed to be "on the rock", that means that the rocker
> is supposed to be on the top of the lobe right? -Dani B. #5003-almost
> fixed!








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 04:20:20 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fire at old Delorean Dealership



Dan Pfeiffer Lincoln Mercury had a pretty bad fire this past 
weekend.  This past summer I went there to inquire about their old 
stash of parts, cars, and dealership signs.  They didn't want to 
sell their parts, but their untitled Delorean was for sale.  
This past weekend the building that, i believe, house their spare 
delorean parts went up in flames.  I'm going to check it out this 
weekend to see for sure if it is the building.  Dan Pfeiffer has 3 
or 4 different buildings.  1 housed their Delorean parts, the other 
housed the untitled Delorean.  Hopefully it wasn't either of those.  
I'll keep you posted.  Below is a link to the new article.

http://www.woodtv.com/global/story.asp?s=2816851&ClientType=Printable

Erik Geerdink








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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 04:22:24 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 2005 DeLorean Calendar



For those that have been waiting... all (as of today) orders for the 
2005 Delorean Calendar have been filled and shipped.  Sorry for the 
delay... we had a supply problem.

If anyone else is interested in a 2005 "D" Calendar, please contact 
me at gullwing-magazine(at)sbcglobal.net.  If you want a glimpse at 
what they look like you can go to gullwingmagazine.com and get a 
preview.

Thanks for your support.

Ron
Gullwing Magazine

#1529 Screamin Yellow D
#6322 2001 Houston Concours Winner








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 04:27:04 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fire at Delorean dealership - update



After talking to a friend of mine just now and looking at the 
pictures from the news report, the building that caught fire housed 
Dan Pfeiffers spare Delorean parts, not the untitled Delorean.
When I was there this past summer they had quite a few Delorean 
parts.  Body panels, exterior parts, wheels, electrical, interior 
and much more.  They also had a great condition dealership sign, and 
a few boxes of "Delorean" the biography of John Delorean.  I'm still 
going to go there this weekend to see if there are any salvageable 
delorean parts.  hopefully something can be saved.

Erik









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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 23:59:20 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Delorean Stalling Out


 It is a positive gesture to try to assist owners with their service
questions. The only way that this can be accomplished effectively is with
accurate definitive descriptions that make it easy for readers to know what
you are talking about.

When describing components use factory or industry standard names instead of
rough directions like, "distributor is behind/underneath the fuel
distributor" or "donut gasket". A simple reference to the parts or service
manuals can save hours of work. It also helps other readers follow your
descriptions.

In your reply below your suggestions don't appear to relate to an engine
stalling problem. For whatever reason it is not necessary to remove the
mixture control unit to access the distributor cap. The statement "Just take
off the mixture control unit with the fuel distributor ATTACHED to it" can
be a complex process especially for someone who has not performed the
procedure previously.  

Your description of problems with the "donut gasket", which I believe you
mean exhaust manifold gasket, provides no help when you say "may/may not"
"cylinder 4 or 6 I believe". Finally your last sentence concerning damage to
your otterstat is confusing. If the subject is "stalling out" why is the
otterstat and exhaust manifold gaskets being discussed?

Let me give you an example of what I mean. Many years ago when I first
became active in helping owners with their questions I got a request for
help with a rough running engine condition. After numerous emails and phone
calls and the owner spending many hours and lots of money replacing parts
the car would not even start. I had to go to the owners home to assist him
in locating the problem. After a couple of hours of putting things back the
way they are supposed to be I discovered a disconnected wire in the fuel
enrichment circuit. A repair that should have taken just a few minutes to
repair dragged out to several weeks of trial and error, connect and
disconnect, if not to mention lots of aggravation and wasted time. This
experience taught me a lesson. 

Please don't feel that I am singling you out of the crowed. Speaking for
myself, and the other veterans on this list that provide assistance to those
who request it, we very much appreciative any good information you and
others can provide. 

Just keep in mind that inaccurate or speculative advise many times results
in more negative results than no advise at all.

Respectfully,
DMC Joe





-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2005 3:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Delorean Stalling Out



The distributor is behind/underneath the fuel distributor (the "spider" with
all the fuel lines). 
You'll need to disconnect the mixture control unit (rectangle where the fuel
distributor is attached) to access the electrical distributor.  Just take
off the mixture control unit with the fuel distributor ATTACHED to it.  If
you do that, you should be able to access the electrical distributor fairly
easily.

I don't know about the damage that may/may not be caused by a blown donut
gasket.  I had an exhaust leak on my driver's side - under cylinder 4 or 6 I
believe.
 My engine temperature never got to "160" (unmarked line between 100 and
220) - my fans stayed on constantly, turning off maybe once a month when
driving.  Coolant hoses swelled due to heat, otterstat (in theory) melted
and died because my leak was hitting it dead on for almost half a year.  

This was all a gasket leak underneath the engine; yours is a bit different,
but I would drive with a little caution.  Don't stay up all night about it,
just inspect your car each time you go for a drive just to be safe.
Preventative maintenance keeps these cars running much longer.







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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 05:02:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)



The mechanical advance has 2 weights in it. They are different and
only one has a spring. They BOTH work, it is just the one with the
spring comes in a little later. It gives a "knee" to the advance
curve. Also take notice that on the distributer cap the cylinders are
not spaced equally apart. This has the effect of varying the advance
for certain cylinders. It is very important that you wire the cap
exactly to the cylinders as marked on the cap so as to maintain the
correct timing for each cylinder. Base timing is mainly there for ease
of starting and to minimize emmisions at idle. If you look at the
advance curve (mechanical AND vacuum) you will see it advances quickly
like most internal combustion engines. For best power and economy you
want to try to get as much advance in as quickly as you can. That is
of course up to the point BEFORE you get pinging! The problem is that
for production motors all of this tends to be on the conservative side
so that there is plenty of room to "cheat" and if you want to maximize
things you could probably add even more advance. Going with a higher
octane fuel will allow even more advance. If you do try this remember
you are flirting with disaster. You can burn valves and pistons if you
overdo this. In any case more advance is usually better than less. If
your mechanical or vacuum advance systems are not functioning you will
have poor fuel economy and low power. This is why going to a full
engine managment system is so neat. You can change things like base
timing and advance "on the fly" from the passanger's seat. Add a knock
sensor and the system can run you right up to the edge for maximum
performance without the danger of damaging the motor! This is the
ticket for any serious performance gains.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Slight clarification:
> 
> 13 degree BTDC base time is due to the hobbled DeLorean ignition
> distributor (one centrifugal counter weight disabled), not PRV engine
> design. Exact same engine (B28F) is base timed at 10 degrees in a
> Volvo. DeLorean has a flatter advance curve, which requires moving all
> sparks closer to cylinder bottom.
> 
> I'm guessing DMC did this for emissions. North American Volvo's used
> 








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 13:11:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Individual car history



I love my car. It's like a rolling archeological dig. I was at long last, replacing 
my cargo net, and found a small cloth flower like the VFW flowers the veterans 
give you when you make a donation.

It had a pennant attached to it that read: xxth Annual Stuben Parade, 1990. I've 
found a few things like this in my car. I'm guessing one of the 4 previous 
owners participated with his car.

Anyone else find stuff like this?

Rich A.
#5335








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:16:16 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel boot bracket


Yes...they advertised this to the public in their last mass e-mail.  I 
agree...GREAT idea, and extremely useful.

-Josh


kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>I just recieved a fuel boot bracket from DMCH 
>Its stainless and really nice, (NEW PART)
>NO MORE RUST IN THE TANK
>
>I am not sure if they are avail to everyone yet so I know I got one of the 
>early ones.
>But if they are not I am sure DMCH will let you know when they are 
>
>NICE 
>
>is all I can say 
>
>I am tired of replacing them with ones that will rust again anyway
>
>Ken
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 15:28:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Dead Delorean in NY



Does anyone on the list have any info on a Delorean in a gas station
in Tarrytown. The plate is 2THDOC3 so I guess the owner is a dentist.
It appears to have died there. It also must have a lot of leaks, the
windows are all frozen up on the inside so I can't see the vin #.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 12:11:44 -0500
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Dead Delorean in NY


Seen it there before when I worked in Briarcliff - he lives a few blocks away
and has it serviced there regularly.


Regards,

Michael


Quoting David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>:

> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone on the list have any info on a Delorean in a gas station
> in Tarrytown. The plate is 2THDOC3 so I guess the owner is a dentist.
> It appears to have died there. It also must have a lot of leaks, the
> windows are all frozen up on the inside so I can't see the vin #.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 







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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 09:00:44 -0800 (PST)
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: High Idle


Bill,
     In response to your e-mail so everybody's on the
same page:

> Are you sure the big O rings on your U pipes are the
> right size, and
> in good condition? 

The O-rings definately are not leaking I checked that.
 

> The nipple you were blowing through is ported
> vacuum.

Of course, I said I was pumping 5psi air in to the
vacuum port.

> If you sprayed
> soapy water on the
> upstream side (towards the air sensor plate) of
> course you'd see bubbles.

I was spraying the bubbly water on to the other side
of the butterflies.  The soapy water confirmed that
air is getting by the throttle shaft where it passes
through the throttle body.

> Rotating motion will inevitably
> wear oblong holes
> over time. Sorry (happens on carburetors too).

Yep, I guess it's time to purchase a new throttle body
:) I have one more test to perform today before I make
the purchase, but I'm pretty sure that we've nailed
down the problem.

Jon

--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure the big O rings on your U pipes are the
> right size, and
> in good condition? Make sure you have spacers behind
> each one, and
> that the spacers are located towards the U pipes,
> not the throttle
> plate housing. FWIW I never could get a 100% seal on
> mine, so I made a
> custom "figure 8" gasket to force the O rings a
> little bit closer and
> also seal the aluminum mating surfaces.
> 
> The nipple you were blowing through is ported
> vacuum. On the PRV it
> never closes (is located upstream of the throttle
> plates). When the
> throttle plates open over it, vacuum is allowed
> through (dropping with
> overall decreasing engine vaccum). If you sprayed
> soapy water on the
> upstream side (towards the air sensor plate) of
> course you'd see bubbles.
> 
> The throttle plate shaft is made of steel. The
> throttle plate housing
> is made of aluminum. Rotating motion will inevitably
> wear oblong holes
> over time. Sorry (happens on carburetors too).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, JDub
> <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > The stop screw is backed all the way out.
> > 
> > I tested for leaks in the butterflies today. 
> Here's
> > what I did:
> > 
> > I took off the throttle body and fed 5psi of air
> in to
> > the vacuum port on the bottom of it.  While
> holding
> > the throttle body down on a piece of cardboard I
> > sprayed soapy water down on to the butterflies and
> > could see bubbles coming from all around them and
> from
> > the shafts on the left and right sides.  I still
> don't
> > know if this is enough of a leak to make the
> engine
> > idle high, what do you think? Should the shafts
> seal
> > %100?
> > 
> > Jon
> > 
> > 
> > --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > The most likely reason for air to be getting
> past
> > > the throttle plates
> > > is that the stop screw on the throttle arm is
> not
> > > adjusted properly
> > > allowing the plates to be cracked open a little.
> You
> > > might also have a
> > > decel valve that is dirty and leaking. They are
> > > those little thingies
> > > with the springs on the throttle plates. They
> should
> > > move freely and
> > > seal tight.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, JDub
> <doki_pen_at_dml_y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > So I did a little test today, I put a piece of
> > > > cardboard between the throttle body and the
> air
> > > > metering unit.  I hooked back up the idle
> speed
> > > motor
> > > > and the car idled perfect! Right on 775 RPMS. 
> So
> > > I
> > > > now know the problem is with air getting by
> the
> > > > butterflies in the throttle body.  Do you
> think
> > > it's
> > > > possible those spring loaded little thingys
> could
> > > be
> > > > defective?  I guess it could still be air
> slipping
> > > by
> > > > t
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > > team, please address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > > 
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars
> for
> > > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > > 
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > 
> > > 
> > >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 17:46:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: delorean fuel (David T)



No, "base timing" simply means the point in engine rotation at which
spark occurs without any additional advance enhancements -- in our
case the orientation of the distributor when you tighten it down.
That's why you set it at idle with the vacuum advance diaphragm
disconnected (unnecessary on a DeLo with proper functioning cutoff
solenoid). Only impacts starting insofar as too much initial advance
makes an engine harder to start.

And spark advance does not vary cylinder to cylinder. If the rotor is
moved ahead 10 or 20 degrees, EVERY cylinder will receive its spark 10
or 20 degrees sooner. Our engines are indeed odd fire, but that has
nothing whatsoever to do with spark advance -- the whole firing
sequence is simply shifted. Distributor itself, with its attendant
advance mechanisms, couldn't care less about odd vs even fire, or even
the firing order. That's determined by the cap (and wire routing
thereafter). Rotor button itself simply spins.

Base ignition time for all other North American PRV's is 10 degrees
BTDC (same for European Volvo and normally aspirated Renault models
BTW). Only DMC moved it that much closer to the bottom (and only DMC
removed one of the counterweight springs from an otherwise stock Bosch
distributor). Overall advance curve ends up flatter than other PRV's.
Of course it's there (engine couldn't rev up otherwise) -- it's just
not as aggressive.

BTW: there's a lot of controversy about whether the optimum point of
igntion is threshhold of detonation, or somewhere closer to TDC (can I
hear an "Amen" Martin?). My position, based on Ford's experience with
spark advance on the 460 throughout the 1970's, is that the optimum
point is NOT on the verge of detonation. At least not on a large bore
engine spinning 600-2500 RPM (moving base ignition time closer to
bottom not only lowered overall power, but required convoluted advance
mechanisms, such as double sided vacuum diaphragms, to ensure
detonation did not occur at full throttle). By 1978 -- last year of
passenger auto use -- base time had gone from 10 degrees BTDC to 16.
Impetus was emissions, not fuel economy.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The mechanical advance has 2 weights in it. They are different and
> only one has a spring. They BOTH work, it is just the one with the
> spring comes in a little later. It gives a "knee" to the advance
> curve. Also take notice that on the distributer cap the cylinders are
> not spaced equally apart. This has the effect of varying the advance
> for certain cylinders. It is very important that you wire the cap
> exactly to the cylinders as marked on the cap so as to maintain the
> correct timing for each cylinder. Base timing is mainly there for ease
> of starting and to minimize emmisions at idle. If you look at the
> advance curve (mechanical AND vacuum) you will see it advances quickly
> like most internal combustion engines. For best power and economy you
> want to try to get as much advance in as quickly as you can. That is
> of course up to the point BEFORE you get pinging! The problem is that
> for production motors all of this tends to be on the conservative side
> so that there is plenty of room to "cheat" and if you want to maximize
> things you could probably add even more advance. Going with a higher
> octane fuel will allow even more advance. If you do try this remember
> you are flirting with disaster. You can burn valves and pistons if you
> overdo this. In any case more advance is usually better than less. If
> your mechanical or vacuum advance systems are not functioning you will
> have poor fuel economy and low power. This is why going to a full
> engine managment system is so neat. You can change things like base
> timing and advance "on the fly" from the passanger's seat. Add a knock
> sensor and the system can run you right up to the edge for maximum
> performance without the danger of damaging the motor! This is the
> ticket for any serious performance gains.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 19:38:48 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: delorean fuel (Bruce B)


Hi David

I can't believe you actually said that....
>  Also take notice that on the distributer cap the cylinders are
> not spaced equally apart. This has the effect of varying the advance
> for certain cylinders.  <SNIP>

The cylinders are not equally apart on the distributOr (the O is there on 
purpose :) Sorry Dave) cap not because of that! The are spaced like that 
because the DeLorean engine if ODD FIRE. It means that the spaces (time) 
between firing the cylinders are not even. The advance is the SAME for all 
cylinders and if it was different like you say, the engine would shake 
itself to pieces. There would be different forces on different pistons. All 
cylinders need to run the same with the same amount of power and the same 
ign. advance.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 in Poland
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 21:46:47 +0100
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
Subject: Re: Individual car history


Hello.

I have found old gas receipt from okt 1983, it showed cc numbers and org 
owners name.
The  receipt also showed where the car was tanked and gallons etc. Also the 
location, Palm Springs CA. The car is now in sweden. :)

Regards
Johan
VIN5425

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 2:11 PM
Subject: [DML] Individual car history


>
>
>
> I love my car. It's like a rolling archeological dig. I was at long last, 
> replacing
> my cargo net, and found a small cloth flower like the VFW flowers the 
> veterans
> give you when you make a donation.
>
> It had a pennant attached to it that read: xxth Annual Stuben Parade, 
> 1990. I've
> found a few things like this in my car. I'm guessing one of the 4 previous
> owners participated with his car.
>
> Anyone else find stuff like this?
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 21:09:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Additional Thought Re: Ignition Timing (David T)



Thought about this at lunch:

Because of the odd fire sequence, PRV distributor must have an
asymetrical cam driving the hall effect sensor (pickup coil). In that
respect rotor position is somewhat specific to engine position -- for
example rotation between cylinders 1-6 is not interchangeable with
rotation between cylinders 6-3. Note however that odd firing pairs
would be interchangeable (4-1 6-3 5-2). Distributor positioning is
only limited to cylinders 1 and 6 by the hold down method (stud & slot
vs clamp) and clearance for the spark advance diaphragm. Note also
that the distributor cap is keyed -- it is impossible to misorient it
relative to the asymetrical cam.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 23:17:32 -0000
From: "joecellularjoe" <joecellularjoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: auto lift



Dave,

Now that you mention it, how did the stainless steel frame automatic 
turn out? I haven't seen any updates to that section.

Did that car make it to Pigeon Forge?

Any estimates on cost for that job?




Joe



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I use the 4 lift pads. Just don't take the body bolts out first! 
> Fiberglass is fine. 
> 
> I have a car in the garage, on the lift, where it's been since 
> Thanksgiving (I work slow).
> 
> It looks like this but not stainless:
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/ssframe.html
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Along these same lines, what is the proper way to lift a 
DeLorean 
> with
> > a 2 post lift?  My buddy just got one his in his garage, but the
> > DeLorean's lifting points are not listed in his book.  It seems 
> scary
> > to be lifting the car by the fiberglass body.  
> > 
> > thanks,
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604
> >








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