From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2474
Date: Friday, February 11, 2005 9:13 PM


There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Unusual Repair
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Re: Unusual Repair
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

3. por 15
From: kc <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

5. Re: Unusual Repair
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Moderator Note on Concours Thread
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

9. Re: Unusual Repair
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

10. Re: por 15
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 00:42:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Repair



There are many parts on any car that are not considered "replacment"
parts. They just don't wear out, break, or get damaged. Most of the
time such parts can be repaired. In rare cases if you need such parts
there are several vendors that trade in used parts that they take off
of "parts cars". Unless you have a lot of money and a place to keep it
it really doesn't pay to keep a parts car for the rare time you
*might* need something unusual. In your case an even simpler method
would have been to cut the broken stud off, drill the plate, and tap.
Screw in a bolt and cut the head off. I don't understand why you had
to remove the release lever to install a remote release though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> I had what I am guessing is a very unusual problem yesterday but the
solution was far simpler then I thought.
> 
> 
> Ken had removed the trunk release assembly when he put the remote
release in. Although he gave me the release handle and a new cable, I
discovered the bracket that holds the cable and handle (101165) was
missing. I ordered the new bracket and when it came in I started to
put it all together. The bracket mounts to a plate with two studs that
is on the fiberglass body. For some reason the studs were not lining
up quite right but I was able to get it on and as I was tightening the
lower nut, the stud snapped. I looked in the parts manual and wouldn't y








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 23:04:54 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Unusual Repair


I actually didn't do the removal. I think Ken's intention was that the trunk 
only open with the launcher remote. The remote solenoid kinda blocks the 
mount where the outer cable attaches on the latch end. I found a solution 
and decided that I wanted both the remote and manual option. If you look at 
the part it has about a half inch spacer built on to the bottom stud. The 
back has to be flat to mount against the fiberglass frame. By grinding off 
and down the old stud and then using a bolt, the offset is exactly as it 
originally was and looking at the part you cant even tell it was repaired.


Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2005 7:42 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Unusual Repair


>
>
>
> There are many parts on any car that are not considered "replacment"
> parts. They just don't wear out, break, or get damaged. Most of the
> time such parts can be repaired. In rare cases if you need such parts
> there are several vendors that trade in used parts that they take off
> of "parts cars". Unless you have a lot of money and a place to keep it
> it really doesn't pay to keep a parts car for the rare time you
> *might* need something unusual. In your case an even simpler method
> would have been to cut the broken stud off, drill the plate, and tap.
> Screw in a bolt and cut the head off. I don't understand why you had
> to remove the release lever to install a remote release though.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>>
>> I had what I am guessing is a very unusual problem yesterday but the
> solution was far simpler then I thought.
>>
>>
>> Ken had removed the trunk release assembly when he put the remote
> release in. Although he gave me the release handle and a new cable, I
> discovered the bracket that holds the cable and handle (101165) was
> missing. I ordered the new bracket and when it came in I started to
> put it all together. The bracket mounts to a plate with two studs that
> is on the fiberglass body. For some reason the studs were not lining
> up quite right but I was able to get it on and as I was tightening the
> lower nut, the stud snapped. I looked in the parts manual and wouldn't y
>





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 05:13:19 -0800 (PST)
From: kc <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: por 15


I'm looking to start some epozy clean-up work on my
frame around the gas tank and have been looking over
the por-15 site.
It is confusing.
There are quite a lot of different products, and quite
a lot of different steps to do it.
Which steps have people done, and what products of
theirs are recommended?

-K





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:21:21 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Not so stainless?? HELP!


I've uploaded some pictures of my car. Actually, some closeup views of my 
'not so stanless' steel. Go to the photo section on Yahoo to view them. Can 
anyone tell me what to do with it? It looks like my car is developing some 
nasty skin condition that looks like chicken pox. It looks awful! I did NOT 
use steel wool or anything like that on the car, ever. But I don't know what 
the PO might have done to it in the past. I have had this car for over a 
year now and the panels were never perfect - I always had few spots here and 
there, but never this much. What is going on? Do I have to regrain the 
entire car? Will that help?
Those spots are not coming off when washing. The car was still wet in parts 
when I tooks those pics.
Can somebody tell me the grit of the sand paper used on the flapper wheel? I 
know that everyone says 60 grit, but that is true in the US. The 60 grit in 
Europe is much finer. Does anyone know the EU equivalent?

I'd like to thank everyone for helping me out with my transmission problem. 
Although the problem still exists I appreciate your help. I am using fully 
sythetic gear oil but it doesn't help any. I will soon start a complete 
restoration of my car and I'll take care of that then. Right now the temps 
are back to more normal (above freezing) range and the problem is much less 
apparent.

Thank you in advance
Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:48:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Repair



Not only should you retain the ability to open the trunk (bonnet)
manually, you should add a back-up cable in case the cable on the
manual release and launcher breaks. I guess the launcher mechanism
installs by the cable release, not the latch in the trunk. The back-up
cable is nothing more than a short piece of cable that runs from the
clevis pin on the latch to a bolt nearby the manual release lever. In
the event the main cable breaks you can yank on the back-up cable and
get the trunk open with a miminum of fuss. It is also pretty safe as
far as security goes. You can't get to the back-up cable unless you
can open the car door. You can do the same trick on the engine cover
but you can reach the latch directly from the left tailight if you
have to. The trunk is tough especially if it is full of stuff and you
have to change a flat tire at night in the rain!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> I actually didn't do the removal. I think Ken's intention was that
the trunk 
> only open with the launcher remote. The remote solenoid kinda blocks
the 
> mount where the outer cable attaches on the latch end. I found a
solution 
> and decided that I wanted both the remote and manual option. If you
look at 
> the part it has about a half inch spacer built on to the bottom
stud. The 
> back has to be flat to mount against the fiberglass frame. By
grinding off 
>








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:59:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!



First try 120#. BE SURE to go only in straight lines WITH the grain.
If 120# isn't enough you can go to 80# and then back to 120#. Finish
up with a blending pad and do an area, not just the spot to spread out
the work. You will find yourself doing the entire panel. When you
finish you will find yourself doing the next panel and so on until you
have gone around the whole car. Use masking tape on the facias, marker
lights, and rub rail to protect it from the sandpaper. Stainless Steel
is not indestuctable. It can stain and it can corrode under the right
conditions. NEVER go near it with any Chlorine containing compounds.
This alloy of S/S will dissolve in the presence of Chlorine. Chlorine
is found most commonly in bleach. Stains are most commonly caused by
hard water. Stains are usually only on the surface and sanding removes
the surface along with the stain. You can do this by hand, it just may
take a while. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> I've uploaded some pictures of my car. Actually, some closeup views
of my 
> 'not so stanless' steel. Go to the photo section on Yahoo to view
them. Can 
>








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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 07:07:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!


Tom,
It looks to me like it was caused by some chemical? Have you tried a good carb. cleaner and a toothbrush? Then I would suggest a commercial SS cleaner. For really good cleaning you can get a scotch pad at a paint store that is the same as the one that came in the kit with the car originally. Be sure to use it in one direction with the grain.
 
Chris
6301

Tom <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl> wrote:


I've uploaded some pictures of my car. Actually, some closeup views of my 
'not so stanless' steel. Go to the photo section on Yahoo to view them. Can 
anyone tell me what to do with it? It looks like my car is developing some 
nasty skin condition that looks like chicken pox. It looks awful! I did NOT 
use steel wool or anything like that on the car, ever. But I don't know what 
the PO might have done to it in the past. I have had this car for over a 
year now and the panels were never perfect - I always had few spots here and 
there, but never this much. What is going on? Do I have to regrain the 
entire car? Will that help?
Those spots are not coming off when washing. The car was still wet in parts 
when I tooks those pics.
Can somebody tell me the grit of the sand paper used on the flapper wheel? I 
know that everyone says 60 grit, but that is true in the US. The 60 grit in 
Europe is much finer. Does anyone know the EU equivalent?

I'd like to thank everyone for helping me out with my transmission problem. 
Although the problem still exists I appreciate your help. I am using fully 
sythetic gear oil but it doesn't help any. I will soon start a complete 
restoration of my car and I'll take care of that then. Right now the temps 
are back to more normal (above freezing) range and the problem is much less 
apparent.

Thank you in advance
Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 13:59:22 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Moderator Note on Concours Thread


Since Knut post a couple of messages about the Millennium concours 
competition I have rejected dozens of messages on the subject.  Just to 
be clear, this is the situation:

There is a separate Yahoo Groups forum dedicated to the Millennium 
concours.  You can subscribe to it here:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/millennium-concours/

The concours forum was created for a very good reason.  Years ago, 
before the concours forum existed, whenever the subject of DeLorean 
concours standards came up on the DML it lead to a huge amount of 
traffic.  A small number of DMLers would send a large number of posts 
arguing about what the standards should be.  Another large number of 
posts would beg for the discussion to end because most DMLers were not 
interested in concours.

Thanks to the Millennium concours forum, the arguments about rules and 
standards are still available to anyone who wants to participate, but 
the arguments no longer clog the DML.

The DML is still a good place to share your stories, tips, and 
announcements about concours competition.  But if you want to discuss 
the nitty-gritty of the rules, standards, and judging manual, the 
Millennium concours forum is the preferred venue.

- Mike Substelny
DML moderator of the week






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 20:02:57 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Repair



A little late in your case, but for anyone considering a remote trunk
release, in Gullwing Vol 2, Iss 4, there's an ad for Delorean Parts
Northwest's trunk release with a picture of how / where it mounts.  It
appears to preserve the manual release without interference, as the
actuator is right next to the latch in the trunk.  I'll probably go
this route when the time comes.

--Greg
#2894

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> I had what I am guessing is a very unusual problem yesterday but the
solution was far simpler then I thought.
> 
> 
> Ken had removed the trunk release assembly when he put the remote
release in. Although he gave me the release handle and a new cable, I
discovered the bracket that holds the cable and handle (101165) was
missing. I ordered the new bracket and when it came in I started to
put it all together. The bracket mounts to a plate with two studs that
is on the fiberglass body. For some reason the studs were not lining
up quite right but I was able to get it on and as I was tightening the
lower nut, the stud snapped. I looked in the parts manual and wouldn't
you know it.. No part number. I called DMCH and Grady and learned that
evidently this part is actually part of the fiberglass frame and not a
separately orderable part. Grady did offer to strip one off a parts
vehicle if I needed one (Thanks) but I couldn't figure out why it was
part of the frame. I removed the three bolts and scraped the silicone
that was holding it to the body and Viola.. It is just a metal plate
with two studs on it. A quick trip to the welder and he ground the old
stud down and welded a bolt on, a little silicone and it works like a
charm. The real question is how many of these little parts are not
available except by stripping them off a parts car. I am almost
thinking of picking up a junk car just for oddball parts.
> 
> 
> Steve
> #2700
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 20:22:11 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: por 15



I use it extensively. There are really about 4 products that you need 
to be aware of:
Black POR15 - VERY shiny black
Satin Black POR15 - more of a semi-gloss. More correct for things 
like the sway bar or suspension parts, but difficult to get to a 
uniform sheen. 
Gray POR15 - Good for frame repair, but not a perfect match to the 
DMC epoxy if that's what you are after. Very Shiny. I use this on the 
frame and then paint over it with Rustoleum Dark Machine Grey which 
is a very good match. For best results, put on the POR15, let it 
almost harden, then go over it with the Rustoleum. If you let it dry 
completely hard, the top coat won't stick as well. 

For best results you need to get the metal as clean as possible, then 
etch it with POR15 Metal Ready (aka phosporic acid) and rinse with 
water. At your local auto store ask for Met-L-Prep, it's the same 
stuff.  They say you can paint POR15 over VERY rusty metal, and you 
can, but it won't hold up nearly as well as over properly prepared 
metal. Sandblasting is best. 

As they say Read and Follow Label Directions. Do not be tempted to 
spray POR15 without a fresh-air respirator (NOT just a mask), the 
active ingredient is isocyanate, the which, in addition to being the 
active ingredient in Krazy Glue, is extremely poisonous. The 
similarity to the word "cyanide" is not a coincidence. 

I've had great luck  with this over the years, honestly it holds up 
as well or better than powdercoating, it's just not as pretty. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kc <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I'm looking to start some epozy clean-up work on my
> frame around the gas tank and have been looking over
> the por-15 site.
> It is confusing.
> There are quite a lot of different products, and quite
> a lot of different steps to do it.
> Which steps have people done, and what products of
> theirs are recommended?
> 
> -K








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