From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2475
Date: Saturday, February 12, 2005 6:35 PM


There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Unusual Repair
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Re: Unusual Repair
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

4. Millennium Concours registration details
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

5. 2005 DMC (Texas) Open House Event
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

6. using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

7. Re: Unusual Repair
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Interior Troubles!
From: "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Re: por 15
From: kc <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: Unusual Repair
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

11. Re: using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

13. Hemming Classic Car
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>

14. Delorean for sale
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: 2005 DMC (Texas) Open House Event
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:44:19 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!



After passing these pictures around Paul Mueller Company 
http://www.muel.com, the Stainless Steel plant my wife works at, they 
have come to the conclusion it looks like surface rust.

They have a metal conditioner they use to somehow remove and stop 
this from happening. Don't ask me what it is, I don't know. I can 
find out if you would like. Please E-mail me off list wayofcain(at)
aol.com if you would like the info. I can also get samples of this 
conditioner. I use it on my car and it's fantastic.

I have also put their 300 Series stainless care brochure online at 
http://www.gobmc.org/Care&CleanofS-S.pdf They mostly make Stainless 
vessels out of 304 and 308 so substitute "car" for "vessel" in the 
literature. Otherwise, I use it as my stainless bible. It's amazing 
how vulnerable the steel really is. 

Cain Grimes
002835

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> I've uploaded some pictures of my car. Actually, some closeup views 
of my 
> 'not so stanless' steel. Go to the photo section on Yahoo to view 
them. Can 
> anyone tell me what to do with it? It looks like my car is 
developing some 
> nasty skin condition that looks like chicken pox. It looks awful! I 
did NOT 
> use steel wool or anything like that on the car, ever. But I don't 
know what 
> the PO might have done to it in the past. I have had this car for 
over a 
> year now and the panels were never perfect - I always had few spots 
here and 
> there, but never this much. What is going on? Do I have to regrain 
the 
> entire car? Will that help?
> Those spots are not coming off when washing. The car was still wet 
in parts 
> when I tooks those pics.
> Can somebody tell me the grit of the sand paper used on the flapper 
wheel? I 
> know that everyone says 60 grit, but that is true in the US. The 60 
grit in 
> Europe is much finer. Does anyone know the EU equivalent?
> 
> I'd like to thank everyone for helping me out with my transmission 
problem. 
> Although the problem still exists I appreciate your help. I am 
using fully 
> sythetic gear oil but it doesn't help any. I will soon start a 
complete 
> restoration of my car and I'll take care of that then. Right now 
the temps 
> are back to more normal (above freezing) range and the problem is 
much less 
> apparent.
> 
> Thank you in advance
> Tom Niemczewski
> jamesik_at_dml_v...
> VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...








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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:58:18 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Repair



That's weird. Why wouldn't you install either a kicker solenoid, or an
actuator, and connect it to the latch arm inside the trunk?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> I actually didn't do the removal. I think Ken's intention was that
the trunk 
> only open with the launcher remote. The remote solenoid kinda blocks
the 
> mount where the outer cable attaches on the latch end. I found a
solution 
> and decided that I wanted both the remote and manual option. If you
look at 
> the part it has about a half inch spacer built on to the bottom
stud. The 
> back has to be flat to mount against the fiberglass frame. By
grinding off 
> and down the old stud and then using a bolt, the offset is exactly
as it 
> originally was and looking at the part you cant even tell it was
repaired.
> 
> 
> Steve
> #2700








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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 17:13:39 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Unusual Repair


The solenoid has it's own cable to the latch.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 9:48 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Unusual Repair


>
>
>
> Not only should you retain the ability to open the trunk (bonnet)
> manually, you should add a back-up cable in case the cable on the
> manual release and launcher breaks. I guess the launcher mechanism
> installs by the cable release, not the latch in the trunk. The back-up
> cable is nothing more than a short piece of cable that runs from the
> clevis pin on the latch to a bolt nearby the manual release lever. In
> the event the main cable breaks you can yank on the back-up cable and
> get the trunk open with a miminum of fuss. It is also pretty safe as
> far as security goes. You can't get to the back-up cable unless you
> can open the car door. You can do the same trick on the engine cover
> but you can reach the latch directly from the left tailight if you
> have to. The trunk is tough especially if it is full of stuff and you
> have to change a flat tire at night in the rain!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>>
>> I actually didn't do the removal. I think Ken's intention was that
> the trunk
>> only open with the launcher remote. The remote solenoid kinda blocks
> the
>> mount where the outer cable attaches on the latch end. I found a
> solution
>> and decided that I wanted both the remote and manual option. If you
> look at
>> the part it has about a half inch spacer built on to the bottom
> stud. The
>> back has to be flat to mount against the fiberglass frame. By
> grinding off

>
> 






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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 15:55:59 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Millennium Concours registration details


For the convenience of the participants, the Millennium Concours
registration will be handled by DMC (Texas) as part of the regular
registration process for the Open House event they are hosting.
See http://www.delorean.com/ohouse2005/events.html for details.

There is a limited number of openings available for the concours
competition, so please be sure you secure your place in the event
early. Watch for the concours registration options in the DMC Open
House registration page. If you have any questions about getting
signed up for the event or about the details of participating,
please feel free to contact me or any of the other coordinators
(Dave Swingle and Marty Maier).

	Knut







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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 18:39:07 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: 2005 DMC (Texas) Open House Event


The DMC (Texas) Open House will be held June 10-12, 2005 here at our 
suburban Houston location. Registrations are now being accepted at:

http://www.delorean.com/ohouse2005/events.html

As in the past, attendance will be limited to the first 150 registrants. 
In both 2001 and 2003, several people waited to the last minute and we 
were unable to accommodate them.

In addition to the first DeLorean prototype, we're pleased to have two 
very special guest speakers. Bill Collins was the original Chief 
Engineer for the original DMC and is credited with the creation of the 
first DeLorean prototype.

Dixon Hollinshead, another DMC original, instrumental in transforming 
the Dunmurry pasture into the state-of-the-art DeLorean factory will be 
on hand as well, as a guest speaker for our event.

Warehouse tours of the world's largest supply of new, NOS and 
reproduction parts, technical seminars, Millennium Concours, People's 
Choice Competition and make this an event not to miss.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 01:33:46 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?



Is this an OK idea?  I don't plan on hosing the engine down, but I 
read elsewhere on the internet that it is one way to find vacuum 
leaks.  I was planning on spraying near the gasketed areas and 
listening for the engine speed to increase.  Then I read in the DML 
archive that apparently starting fluid can destroy an engine?  

What's the deal?

thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 03:00:07 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Repair



I just installed the DPartsNW electric trunk release with the 
modification to pop-up the hood. What a great addition to the car! I 
believe they sell just the pop-up mod and I recommend it.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> A little late in your case, but for anyone considering a remote 
trunk
> release, in Gullwing Vol 2, Iss 4, there's an ad for Delorean Parts
> Northwest's trunk release with a picture of how / where it 
mounts.  It
> appears to preserve the manual release without interference, as the
> actuator is right next to the latch in the trunk.  I'll probably go
> this route when the time comes.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894
 








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 05:21:52 -0000
From: "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Interior Troubles!



Ive been having some interior troubles lately and I thought maybe 
one of you guys have had experience with this one. I have a 81 D and 
on the passenger side door the handle has begun to pull away from 
the armrest where the leather strap is attached. It hasnt reached 
the point that the handle is ready to pull completely way from the 
armrest but its something id like to remedy for the sake of 
appearance. Thanks.

Josh
#3989








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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:23:09 -0800 (PST)
From: kc <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: por 15


No top coat?

--- Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> I use it extensively. There are really about 4
> products that you need 
> to be aware of:
> Black POR15 - VERY shiny black
> Satin Black POR15 - more of a semi-gloss. More
> correct for things 
> like the sway bar or suspension parts, but difficult
> to get to a 
> uniform sheen. 
> Gray POR15 - Good for frame repair, but not a
> perfect match to the 
> DMC epoxy if that's what you are after. Very Shiny.
> I use this on the 
> frame and then paint over it with Rustoleum Dark
> Machine Grey which 
> is a very good match. For best results, put on the
> POR15, let it 
> almost harden, then go over it with the Rustoleum.
> If you let it dry 
> completely hard, the top coat won't stick as well. 
> 
> For best results you need to get the metal as clean
> as possible, then 
> etch it with POR15 Metal Ready (aka phosporic acid)
> and rinse with 
> water. At your local auto store ask for Met-L-Prep,
> it's the same 
> stuff.  They say you can paint POR15 over VERY rusty
> metal, and you 
> can, but it won't hold up nearly as well as over
> properly prepared 
> metal. Sandblasting is best. 
> 
> As they say Read and Follow Label Directions. Do not
> be tempted to 
> spray POR15 without a fresh-air respirator (NOT just
> a mask), the 
> active ingredient is isocyanate, the which, in
> addition to being the 
> active ingredient in Krazy Glue, is extremely
> poisonous. The 
> similarity to the word "cyanide" is not a
> coincidence. 
> 
> I've had great luck  with this over the years,
> honestly it holds up 
> as well or better than powdercoating, it's just not
> as pretty. 
> 
> Dave S

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 00:35:35 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Unusual Repair


Again, I didn't do the original install. Ken the PO did it. I don't know his 
reasoning but the system works well.

Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 4:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Unusual Repair


>
>
>
> That's weird. Why wouldn't you install either a kicker solenoid, or an
> actuator, and connect it to the latch arm inside the trunk?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>>
>> I actually didn't do the removal. I think Ken's intention was that
> the trunk
>> only open with the launcher remote. The remote solenoid kinda blocks
> the
>> mount where the outer cable attaches on the latch end. I found a
> solution
>> and decided that I wanted both the remote and manual option. If you
> look at
>> the part it has about a half inch spacer built on to the bottom
> stud. The
>> back has to be flat to mount against the fiberglass frame. By
> grinding off
>> and down the old stud and then using a bolt, the offset is exactly
> as it
>> originally was and looking at the part you cant even tell it was
> repaired.
>>
>>
>> Steve
>> #2700





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 17:10:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?



There are dangers involved in the use of starting fluid aka ether. It
is highly flammable. Overuse can cause broken piston rings and
pistons. If inhaled it can cause unconcousnes(-). Some manuals for
other types of cars recomend the use of propane. It too is highly
flammable but not as bad as ether. My prefered way of finding vacuum
leaks is by direct visual observation. In most cases it requires
removing each hose. You can also use a hand-held vacuum tester and
check each part individualy. If you have a bad ignition wire the spark
will set the ether on fire. It will flash so fast you won't even see
the flame. It will cause little damage but you may loose all your hair
and damage your eyes. (Don't ask how I know this).  If you think a
gasket or seal is leaking take the connection apart, inspect the
surfaces and seal, and reseal with some silicone. Any bolt holes that
the thread is stripped must be repaired with a thread insert for the
correct clamping force to be applied to the joint so it won't leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Is this an OK idea?  I don't plan on hosing the engine down, but I 
> read elsewhere on the internet that it is one way to find vacuum 
> leaks.  I was planning on spraying near the gasketed areas and 
> listening for the engine speed to increase.  Then I read in the DML 
> archive that apparently starting fluid can destroy an engine?  
> 
> What's the deal?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 18:01:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: using starting fluid to find vacuum leaks?



Risks aside, I can tell you that this method did not work for me, 
when I tried it on my engine. And i know that I killed some vacuum 
leaks when I pulled the intake manifold, 'cause the motor doesn't 
whistle as much now.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Is this an OK idea?  I don't plan on hosing the engine down, but I 
> read elsewhere on the internet that it is one way to find vacuum 
> leaks.  I was planning on spraying near the gasketed areas and 
> listening for the engine speed to increase.  Then I read in the DML 
> archive that apparently starting fluid can destroy an engine?  
> 
> What's the deal?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:15:00 -0600
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Hemming Classic Car


For those who have to have anything in print, the March 2005 issue of Hemmings Classic Car has a section they do every issue on auto pioneers. This issue it's on John Delorean. It's basically a one page bio. The picture of John looks very recent. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 10:58:56 -0800 (PST)
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean for sale


Just wanted to let y'all know about a delorean for
sale i saw on craigslist.  It looks to be in REALLY
rough shape.  I in no way know the person selling it
or anything just wanted to pass it on to you guys.  If
you decide to go see it just be careful of the
neighborhood.  That's the reason I won't even go out
there to take a look.

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/59404285.html

Jon





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:01:50 -0600
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 2005 DMC (Texas) Open House Event


When I passed on the message to Bill Collins that the prototype was going to 
be shown at DMCH this summer, I had thoughts in the back of my head that by 
some slim chance he might want to attend. The fact that he's decided to come 
and to speak about his experience with the prototype is a very rare 
opportunity. In my opinion, Bill is the 2nd most significant person to be 
involved with the formation of John's concepts of what the Delorean should 
be, after John himself. Before Lotus was brought on, Bill oversaw the 
engineering and general product development of the DMC-12. To my knowledge, 
this is the first time that Bill has done anything related to the Delorean 
world since he left the original company when Lotus took over the 
engineering work.
I'm going to pass the word along to other members of the Vixen Owners Group. 
It would be great if some Vixens were able to show up. For anyone who isn't 
familiar with Bill's other venture after he left DMC, here's the link, 
http://www.vixenrv.org/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
To: <undisclosed-recipients:>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 6:39 PM
Subject: [DML] 2005 DMC (Texas) Open House Event


>
>
> The DMC (Texas) Open House will be held June 10-12, 2005 here at our
> suburban Houston location. Registrations are now being accepted at:
>
> http://www.delorean.com/ohouse2005/events.html
>
> As in the past, attendance will be limited to the first 150 registrants.
> In both 2001 and 2003, several people waited to the last minute and we
> were unable to accommodate them.
>
> In addition to the first DeLorean prototype, we're pleased to have two
> very special guest speakers. Bill Collins was the original Chief
> Engineer for the original DMC and is credited with the creation of the
>first Delorean prototype.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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