From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2477
Date: Monday, February 14, 2005 9:05 PM


There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Wheel Bearings (was Gas Milage)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. "Fake" converter available
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Bonnet Latch Too Tight.
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: Interior Troubles!
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Re: Gas Milage Question.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

7. Re: Gas Milage Question.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: "Fake" converter available
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

9. De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

10. Re: "Fake" converter available
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Cooling System - High Pressure
From: BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com

12. 2005 DMC Open House Hotel Rooms
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

13. Struggling to find parts...
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

15. RE: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Selling my Daily Driver DeLorean
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 20:08:58 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings (was Gas Milage)



That brings up an interesting question/comment - on the car I'm 
restoring, I had to replace 3 of the 4 bearings due to being noisy 
(went ahead and did all four). I've never seen this, and on 
my "other" car I's at 39,000 miles on the originals with no problem. 
This car shows about 25K miles, and based on condition and records I 
believe it accurate. The gotcha is that the car had not been 
regularly driven in 20 years and not at all in ten, but has always 
been stored indoors. 

I just thought bearing failure under these circumstances to be a bit 
strange. 

BTW - there was NOT a noticeably difference in rotational friction 
between the old and new, the new ones are just a bunch quieter. 

Dave S 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Depending upon where I am driving, speed, etc., I get
> from 23 to 27 mpg on trips.  I have almost 100,000
> miles on my car and I have never replaced wheel
> bearings. 
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
> --- therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Quick question for anyone here who gets gas milage
> > above 25mpg+ on 
> > trips. Of everyone who gets extraordinary economy
> > out of their cars, 
> > how many of you have replaced the wheel bearings on
> > your cars?
> > vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 20:20:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: "Fake" converter available



Also related to the #2466 restoration project - in the process of 
taking things apart I noticed that the prior owner had emptied out 
the catalytic converter (argh!). Must be a North Carolina thing. 

That will never work here for emission testing, or most places that 
this car is likely to end up, so I'm going to replace it with a real 
one. If anyone that lives out in the boonies wants this empty one 
cheap (instead of ruining a perfectly good $200 converter for such 
experimentation), let me know. ($50 shipped anywhere) It's in fine 
shape otherwise, no broken studs, etc. 

Dave S (swingle(at)dmcnews.com)











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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 01:40:33 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Bonnet Latch Too Tight.



Robert - David T. had some great advice for you regarding the 
adjustment of the latch, etc.  The most popular method for allowing 
the trunk to properly "pop up" has been to simply increase the 
spring rate on the existing spring in the DeLorean bonnet latch.  
This method also increases the tension in the latch cable, and 
generally causes undue strain in the latch mechanism.  I really 
think that using a stronger tension spring in the latch does way 
more harm than good.  Check out our remote trunk release ad in 
Gullwing magazine, in the "Goodies" section.  For those who don't 
want remote trunk opening (I can't imagine this, but ...) we also 
offer a small kit to just add in the compression spring mechanism, 
which allows for trunk "pop up", but does not add to the internal 
loads in the latch, or in the latch cable.  As they say "It's all 
good".  The kit (K1023DP) includes the compression spring 
(specifically selected for the proper spring rate for this 
application), custom formed and threaded linkage rod, clip, and 
assorted hardware (washers, nut, etc), along with instructions (of 
course).  (Tip: A tiny dab of grease smeared on the loop and the 
latch arm will help the latch to operate smoother. If it's already 
galled and fretted, sand smooth first with emery cloth)

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
 
> Is there anyway to lessen the tension on the spring for the Bonnet 
> Latch? It's REALLY difficult to close my trunk now, and it's 
sawing thru the brass Striker Latch. I noticed that DMCH sells a 
part called an 'improved' spring for this latch. Is this what it's 
designed to do? Lessen the tension?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 01:50:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!



Tom - There has been some great advice coming through on your 
question.  Here is a "think outside the box" response for you to 
consider.  I asked my materials experts what they would recommend 
for the lay person who has this issue on 304 CRES.  Assuming that 
you don't have access to exotic chemicals or flap sanders, try 
spongeing the areas to get them wet with Coca Cola.  While wet with 
Coke, rub the areas down with aluminum foil.  The phosphoric acid in 
the Coke will begin the passivation process in the CRES, and the 
aluminum foil will surrender some of its electrons while exposed to 
the acids.  The electrons will jump to the CRES, and will tend to 
make it far more "passive", which will make it less prone to this 
sort of surface rust.  Note that Pepsi will also work for this.  I 
have no commercial ties to either soft drink company!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> I've uploaded some pictures of my car. Actually, some closeup 
views of my 'not so stanless' steel. Go to the photo section on 
Yahoo to view them. Can anyone tell me what to do with it? It looks 
like my car is developing some nasty skin condition that looks like 
chicken pox. It looks awful! 








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 02:18:04 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Interior Troubles!



Josh - The following assumes that your strap is looped around the 
grab handle, rather than inserted into a slot aft of where the grab 
handle is located.  The grab handle is attached to a bracket with 
two screws, one on each end of the handle.  This first bracket is 
then attached to another bracket by two bolts through an angle 
flange.  The final (second) bracket is attached to the door 
structure using four bolts.  I am guessing that one or more of these 
various screws or bolts have come loose.  The best way to figure 
this out is to remove the grab handle, and then see if you can find 
the loose or missing fasteners.  You can do this by removing the 
escutcheon (the plastic trim piece that goes under the door latch 
handle on the armrest) and the little plastic insert just forward of 
the escutcheon.  This is just held in place by some plastic tabs 
molded into the insert, so be careful prying it out.  You can then 
see the two bolts that attach the first bracket to the second one.  
Remove those bolts (without dropping them into the bowels of the 
door), pull the grab handle out, and then take a look at all of the 
fasteners that you can see.  One or more of them are probably loose 
or (now) missing.  Fix as necessary.  Email me off list if you have 
any other questions.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Ive been having some interior troubles lately and I thought maybe 
> one of you guys have had experience with this one. I have a 81 D 
and 
> on the passenger side door the handle has begun to pull away from 
> the armrest where the leather strap is attached. It hasnt reached 
> the point that the handle is ready to pull completely way from the 
> armrest but its something id like to remedy for the sake of 
> appearance. Thanks.
> 
> Josh
> #3989








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 02:36:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Milage Question.



All of my wheel bearings were shot. They howled and made all kinds 
of a racket. I did not notice any change in mileage before or after 
replacement. 

FWIW, I get almost exactly the same mileage.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Depending upon where I am driving, speed, etc., I get
> from 23 to 27 mpg on trips.  I have almost 100,000
> miles on my car and I have never replaced wheel
> bearings. My most recent long trip (over 2000 miles) 
> was one of my best for mpg (a just completed full
> tune-up)i averaged nearly 27mpg.  I put nearly 75,000
> on my previous DeLorean and while my mileage was not
> as good (automatic) I never replaced wheel bearings on
> that car either.
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
> --- therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Quick question for anyone here who gets gas milage
> > above 25mpg+ on 
> > trips. Of everyone who gets extraordinary economy
> > out of their cars, 
> > how many of you have replaced the wheel bearings on
> > your cars?
> > 
> > Just a quick question I've been pondering lately....
> > 
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 02:45:37 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Milage Question.



3354 is an auto. Complete tune up before PF. On the trip to PF I 
averaged 26+ - not quite 27 at mostly 65-75 MPH. On my recent 
weekend drives I average 19-20 which are all nice under 50 mph 
drives through the countryside. I have replaced both front-wheel 
bearings twice in 50,000 miles - 3 times on the passenger side. 
Water in the bearings was the problem - from washing the wheels. If 
water gets behind the plastic caps, especially on the passenger side 
and you don't drive out the water, it seems to get into the 
bearings. Really noisy. Rears seem fine so far. 

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Quick question for anyone here who gets gas milage above 25mpg+ on 
> trips. Of everyone who gets extraordinary economy out of their 
cars, 
> how many of you have replaced the wheel bearings on your cars?
> 
> Just a quick question I've been pondering lately....
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 21:13:40 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: "Fake" converter available



> Dave,

I would not assume that it would not pass w/o the converter.

BOB






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 04:28:02 -0000
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama



Hello DML.
Here's an up date for you on my autorama Detroit show, I got my application return 
to sender from the post office & the address was correct!!! I called the chairman of 
MHRA & he said he never got it or seen it But, Send him the form again with the 
original envolpe post dated he'll try to still get me in but, doesn't look likely since the 
show was full now I sent my application in 11/04 & got it back unopened 02/05, 
sounds shady to me but, I'll keep on trying every year, I found out where to hand 
deliver it to for 2006. so if ant thing changes I'll let you all know again.
Lawrence vin#00538 Michigan 








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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 06:16:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: "Fake" converter available



I'd relate de-emissioning to rural vs urban rather than any specific
geopolitical entity...

De-emissioned cars driven recreationally are far less hazardous to the
environment than fully emissioned ones driven daily in commuter
traffic. Length of American journeys is also a factor --
environmentally sensitive Europeans existed into the late 80's without
emissions because their cars were simply driven shorter distances
(European automobile use now approximates America circa 1970's, while
American journeys have nearly doubled since then). Note that increased
American automobile use is largely due to suburban sprawl -- again an
urban issue. Rural driving patterns have remained fairly constant over
the decades. Traffic congestion is another urban rather than rural
phenomenon.

That said, as an owner of a catalytic converter-less DeLorean, with
dual 2" exhaust streams, the effect of reduced back pressure on
performance is dramatic. Just as dramatic is lowered exhaust system
temperature (the only heat shield I run is under the passenger side
manifold). Substituting a gutted converter won't overcome limitations
of the Y pipe, or small tubing diameter, but it certainly is worth a
$50 investment. Do yourself a future favor and install it with
stainless nuts.

Depending on the amount of road time your DeLorean sees, and the size
of your yard, there's a very good chance your lawn mower will actually
produce more pollution...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Also related to the #2466 restoration project - in the process of 
> taking things apart I noticed that the prior owner had emptied out 
> the catalytic converter (argh!). Must be a North Carolina thing. 
> 
> That will never work here for emission testing, or most places that 
> this car is likely to end up, so I'm going to replace it with a real 
> one. If anyone that lives out in the boonies wants this empty one 
> cheap (instead of ruining a perfectly good $200 converter for such 
> experimentation), let me know. ($50 shipped anywhere) It's in fine 
> shape otherwise, no broken studs, etc. 
> 
> Dave S (swingle(at)dmcnews.com)








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 06:48:22 -0000
From: BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com
Subject: Cooling System - High Pressure



Hi, All,

I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am hoping
one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than blown
head gasket.  

After having the coolant bottle cap blow (on my new SS bottle), I put
a pressure gage on the cooling system.  With engine not running, I
pressurized the system to 15 psi. It held steady at 14.5 psi for over
2 hours.  Thought I was home free.

I then started the car and watched the pressure rise slowly to 20 psi
before shutting off the car and doing possible damage.  This does not
seem normal.  My manual does not give much info; however, I may be
missing pages on this subject.  

The car sat for 5-6 years before I bought in on e-bay a little over a
year ago.  At that time, I replaced all fuel system components,
flushed the fuel lines, removed & cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all
coolant hoses, and went thru the brakes.  After clicking the starter a
few times to get the fuel pump to prime the system, the started almost
immediately and seemed to run normally.  However, on my first drive,
the plastic coolant bottle burst at the normal burst point.   A few
days later, I started a new job and shortly thereafter met a special
lady, so I haven't had time to work on the car again until recently.

Am I being paranoid about the pressure rise?  Should I systematically
remove spark plugs to see of the pressure stabilizes below 14-16 psi?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Woody

p.s., Yes, I'm still dating the lady!








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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 07:52:10 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: 2005 DMC Open House Hotel Rooms


I was wondering if anybody here is going to the event and has booked a 
room and would like to split the costs?

If interested please email me direct.

Thank you,

Mark V






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 20:09:42 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Struggling to find parts...


Hi All

Would anyone have a spare 100772 and 100773 kicking around? These are 
the two brackets that the AC idler pulleys mount to - numbers 8 and 9 on 
the following image

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C721.gif

I'm in the UK but can Paypal immediately. These are for my project car 
for which I'm scratch-building an engine.

Cheers

Martin





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 20:47:18 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?



How long is the Cold Start valve supposed to shoot fuel?  Is it a
second, or something more like 15 seconds?

My PO installed a momentary button to activate the Cold Start valve,
but I think they were doing so to compensate for another warm-up
problem... not because the activation based on the thermo-time switch
was deficient...  As it stands, in order to cold start, I have to
manually tap this button periodically during the first 10-20 seconds
after start-up, otherwise it dies.  If I attach the original
electrical connector to the cold start valve, the engine still starts,
but sputters out within a few seconds.  Is there a way to test if this
is the warm up regulator or something?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 16:20:09 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cooling System - High Pressure


Woody, The coolant bottle cap should release at 15lb's if it's the correct
one.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com [mailto:BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 12:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cooling System - High Pressure





Hi, All,

I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am hoping
one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than blown
head gasket.

After having the coolant bottle cap blow (on my new SS bottle), I put
a pressure gage on the cooling system.  With engine not running, I
pressurized the system to 15 psi. It held steady at 14.5 psi for over
2 hours.  Thought I was home free.

I then started the car and watched the pressure rise slowly to 20 psi
before shutting off the car and doing possible damage.  This does not
seem normal.  My manual does not give much info; however, I may be
missing pages on this subject.

The car sat for 5-6 years before I bought in on e-bay a little over a
year ago.  At that time, I replaced all fuel system components,
flushed the fuel lines, removed & cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all
coolant hoses, and went thru the brakes.  After clicking the starter a
few times to get the fuel pump to prime the system, the started almost
immediately and seemed to run normally.  However, on my first drive,
the plastic coolant bottle burst at the normal burst point.   A few
days later, I started a new job and shortly thereafter met a special
lady, so I haven't had time to work on the car again until recently.

Am I being paranoid about the pressure rise?  Should I systematically
remove spark plugs to see of the pressure stabilizes below 14-16 psi?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Woody

p.s., Yes, I'm still dating the lady!








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 16:17:04 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?


If your car doesn't start quickly and your cranking continues, then the cold
start will spray fuel for 7 to 8 seconds if you stay on the key. The TTS
switch will heat up and should shut it off in 7 to 8 seconds. That's what it
does if everything is good. If it's longer than that I would replaced the
TTS switch. If you keep cranking on the engine you will normally flood the
car.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com]
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 2:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?





How long is the Cold Start valve supposed to shoot fuel?  Is it a
second, or something more like 15 seconds?

My PO installed a momentary button to activate the Cold Start valve,
but I think they were doing so to compensate for another warm-up
problem... not because the activation based on the thermo-time switch
was deficient...  As it stands, in order to cold start, I have to
manually tap this button periodically during the first 10-20 seconds
after start-up, otherwise it dies.  If I attach the original
electrical connector to the cold start valve, the engine still starts,
but sputters out within a few seconds.  Is there a way to test if this
is the warm up regulator or something?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 14:44:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Selling my Daily Driver DeLorean


Well, it's time to let go of the car that I could never picture myself
without. A lot has changed in my life and it's time to change up my car to
something different (no, no family additions on the way).

I can't say enough about my car. I've used it as a daily driver for the
last 4 and a half years. Almost everything that could go wrong did. But,
this car is now 100% roadworthy and reliable. The DeLorean Motor Center in
Garden Grove has done all major repairs, including:

Full tuneups
Cooling system overhaul
Zilla upgrades
Toby TABs
New front frame extension
Soundproofed interior
Mild audio upgrade (80 gig MP3 player in-dash)
Perfectly balanced doors

See all the details at: http://www.framezero.com/delorean/

I'm in the San Francisco bay area and have been active with the Northern
California DeLorean Moror Club.

I am asking $24,999.

-Christian






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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