From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2478
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 9:16 PM


There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: "Fake" converter available
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. Re: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. possible finger print fix
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Cooling System - High Pressure
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

10. Re: De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. Re: possible finger print fix
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

12. photo of decal required
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Engine cranks but no start
From: "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

14. DMC open house travel arrangements
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

15. Re: Engine cranks but no start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. RE: Engine cranks but no start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Engine cranks but no start
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

18. Re: Engine cranks but no start
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>

19. Rear tail light lense covers update **photos**
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

21. Re: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: possible finger print fix
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

24. Re: DMC open house travel arrangements
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 22:49:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System - High Pressure



You are not supposed to run the motor with  the pressure tester at 15
psi. The pressure rise is normal, it happens when you heat up the
coolant. Take the pressure tester off and see if the cap blows
coolant. If the pressure goes above 15 psi when you start out with 0
it does mean a head gasket. There is a test to confirm this called a
combustion gas leakage test but you don't really need it. Do not start
out with 15 psi and then heat up the motor. Pressure above 15 psi IS bad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, BePositive2000_at_dml_Y... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, All,
> 
> I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am hoping
> one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than blown
> head gasket.  
> 
> 








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 22:53:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?



The cold start valve is activated only during cranking if the motor is
cold enough. It is not uncommon for a P.O. to add a switch to activate
it to overcome a bad fuel accumulater (hard hot start). Without
knowing just how it was wired I can't tell you why you need to hit it
when the motor is cold.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> How long is the Cold Start valve supposed to shoot fuel?  Is it a
> second, or something more like 15 seconds?
> 
> My PO installed a momentary button to activate the Cold Start valve,
> but I think they were doing so to compensate for another warm-up
> problem... not because the activation based on the thermo-time switch
> was deficient...  As it stands, in order to cold start, I have to
> manually tap this button periodically during the first 10-20 seconds
>








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 23:19:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: "Fake" converter available



I'll answer Bill and Bob at the same time. . . .other issues 
notwithstanding, the lack of a functional converter on a post-1975 
car that came with one from the factory is not legal where I live 
(actually it's not legal anywhere, but here They Are Watching.) Like 
it or not, and I'm not debating the laws since they are here and in 
place. 

While I might be able to get it to pass the dyno-roller test by 
careful tuning, I don't really want to mess with it, and don't want 
to saddle a future owner (this car will be for sale in a few months) 
with this sort of problem. I've also not ever seen anyone really make 
this work, just talked about. 

If I lived somewhere that Emission Testing was not (and not forecast 
to be) an issue, and I was likely to keep the car for the next ten 
years, I'd probably think differently about it. That's why I offered 
the converter for sale, someone somewhere else may be able to use it 
to play with. If I was taking a completely moral stance it would go 
in the trash. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I'd relate de-emissioning to rural vs urban rather than any specific
> geopolitical entity...
> 
> De-emissioned cars driven recreationally are far less hazardous to 
the









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 23:22:58 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling System - High Pressure



Are you saying that you ran the car with the pressure tester in place 
on the car and no radiator cap? If that's the case there was nothing 
there to relieve the pressure. A functional 15-lb cap will bleed off 
anything above 15. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, BePositive2000_at_dml_Y... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, All,
> 
> I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am 
hoping
> one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than blown
> head gasket.  
> 
> After having the coolant bottle cap blow (on my new SS bottle), I 
put
> a pressure gage on the cooling system.  With engine not running, I
> pressurized the system to 15 psi. It held steady at 14.5 psi for 
over
> 2 hours.  Thought I was home free.
> 
> I then started the car and watched the pressure rise slowly to 20 
psi
> before shutting off the car and doing possible damage.  








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 23:37:20 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?



To add on to John's comments here, it will spray for the 7-8 seconds
tops only while cranking.  If the engine starts and you stop cranking
before then, it will stop firing.  Factory wired it will only squirt
when the starter is turning.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> If your car doesn't start quickly and your cranking continues, then
the cold
> start will spray fuel for 7 to 8 seconds if you stay on the key. The TTS
> switch will heat up and should shut it off in 7 to 8 seconds. That's
what it
> does if everything is good. If it's longer than that I would
replaced the
> TTS switch. If you keep cranking on the engine you will normally
flood the
> car.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_m...]
> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 2:47 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Cold Start Valve - how long does it go?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long is the Cold Start valve supposed to shoot fuel?  Is it a
> second, or something more like 15 seconds?
> 
> My PO installed a momentary button to activate the Cold Start valve,
> but I think they were doing so to compensate for another warm-up
> problem... not because the activation based on the thermo-time switch
> was deficient...  As it stands, in order to cold start, I have to
> manually tap this button periodically during the first 10-20 seconds
> after start-up, otherwise it dies.  If I attach the original
> electrical connector to the cold start valve, the engine still starts,
> but sputters out within a few seconds.  Is there a way to test if this
> is the warm up regulator or something?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 02:44:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling System - High Pressure



As the engine warms the pressure will go on up until something blows 
unless you have the proper pressure cap installed that releaves 
excess pressure and then maintains the correct pressure - 15 lbs 
psi. If you just put the tester connection on without a cap you're 
lucky you didn't blow the radiator or heater core. It sounds like 
the system is solid if you kept 14 - 16 lbs for over an hour. I have 
experienced an engine blowing out the antifreeze because of a 
leaking head gasket - I have also seen some GM cooling system 
pelletts stop it. BTW, holding a system pressure as long as you did 
would probably have allowed coolant to leak into the cylinder at the 
head gasket leaking point. The symptom then would be an engine miss 
until the coolant clears in the cylinder. I would be surprised if 
you have a leaking head gasket.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, BePositive2000_at_dml_Y... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, All,
> 
> I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am 
hoping
> one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than 
blown
> head gasket.  
> 
> After having the coolant bottle cap blow (on my new SS bottle), I 
put
> a pressure gage on the cooling system.  With engine not running, I
> pressurized the system to 15 psi. It held steady at 14.5 psi for 
over
> 2 hours.  Thought I was home free.
> 
> I then started the car and watched the pressure rise slowly to 20 
psi
> before shutting off the car and doing possible damage.  This does 
not
> seem normal.  My manual does not give much info; however, I may be
> missing pages on this subject.  
> 
> The car sat for 5-6 years before I bought in on e-bay a little 
over a
> year ago.  At that time, I replaced all fuel system components,
> flushed the fuel lines, removed & cleaned the fuel tank, replaced 
all
> coolant hoses, and went thru the brakes.  After clicking the 
starter a
> few times to get the fuel pump to prime the system, the started 
almost
> immediately and seemed to run normally.  However, on my first 
drive,
> the plastic coolant bottle burst at the normal burst point.   A few
> days later, I started a new job and shortly thereafter met a 
special
> lady, so I haven't had time to work on the car again until 
recently.
> 
> Am I being paranoid about the pressure rise?  Should I 
systematically
> remove spark plugs to see of the pressure stabilizes below 14-16 
psi?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> Woody
> 
> p.s., Yes, I'm still dating the lady!








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 03:12:44 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: possible finger print fix



I have never used the stainless steel care kit for the DeLorean on my 
car but I have something that greatly helps with finger prints on the 
grade 304 stainless steel. It is called "Aqua Steel". The bathrooms 
at work are stainless steel and we use it to clean them. Whenever you 
touch the metal after applying this stuff on it, the prints disappear 
after a few seconds.
 The company's website is www.carrollco.com 

Josh
10989








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 03:36:43 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System - High Pressure



Woody,

I've been off the list for a couple of days  so I may not have all 
the facts. My first question to you is at what temperature are your 
cooling fans turning on?

DMC Joe


> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, BePositive2000_at_dml_Y... wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, All,
> > 
> > I'm afraid I have a coolant pressure problem (too high) and am 
> hoping
> > one of you will have a possible easily fixed cause, other than 
> blown
> > head gasket.  
> > 
> > After having the coolant bottle cap blow (on my new SS bottle), I 
> put
> > a pressure gage on the cooling system.  With engine not running, I
> > pressurized the system to 15 psi. It held steady at 14.5 psi for 
> over
> > 2 hours.  Thought I was home free.
> > 
> > I then started the car and watched the pressure rise slowly to 20 
> psi
> > before shutting off the car and doing possible damage.  This does 
> not
> > seem normal.  My manual does not give much info; however, I may be
> > missing pages on this subject.  
> > 
> > The car sat for 5-6 years before I bought in on e-bay a little 
> over a
> > year ago.  At that time, I replaced all fuel system components,
> > flushed the fuel lines, removed & cleaned the fuel tank, replaced 
> all
> > coolant hoses, and went thru the brakes.  After clicking the 
> starter a
> > few times to get the fuel pump to prime the system, the started 
> almost
> > immediately and seemed to run normally.  However, on my first 
> drive,
> > the plastic coolant bottle burst at the normal burst point.   A 
few
> > days later, I started a new job and shortly thereafter met a 
> special
> > lady, so I haven't had time to work on the car again until 
> recently.
> > 
> > Am I being paranoid about the pressure rise?  Should I 
> systematically
> > remove spark plugs to see of the pressure stabilizes below 14-16 
> psi?
> > 
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> > 
> > Woody
> > 
> > p.s., Yes, I'm still dating the lady!








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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 03:41:23 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System - High Pressure



Harold,

If he has installed a cooling system pressure tester he would not be 
able to replace the cap; right?

DMC Joe

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:

<snip>
 If you just put the tester connection on without a cap you're 
> lucky you didn't blow the radiator or heater core. 
<snip> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 









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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 03:45:53 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama



Lawrence, sorry to hear that.  I was looking forward to seeing your 
car in the show, as well as people's reactions to a Delorean there.  
Oh well, we will have to participate in the Motor City auto scene at 
the Woodward Dream cruise this summer.

Sandor 
# 3002



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_n...> wrote:
...but, doesn't look likely since the show was full now...

Lawrence vin#00538 Michigan








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 23:39:03 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: possible finger print fix


Isn't Carroll kinda the household product version of "Avon"..?? Where do you 
purchase it??

Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: [DML] possible finger print fix


>
>
>
> I have never used the stainless steel care kit for the DeLorean on my
> car but I have something that greatly helps with finger prints on the
> grade 304 stainless steel. It is called "Aqua Steel". The bathrooms
> at work are stainless steel and we use it to clean them. Whenever you
> touch the metal after applying this stuff on it, the prints disappear
> after a few seconds.
> The company's website is www.carrollco.com
>
> Josh
> 10989
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 08:26:54 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: photo of decal required



Hi all,

Sounds like a bit of a silly question, but could someone be kind 
enough to get a really good closeup photo of the DMC Logo on the 
front windshield.

Many owners over here in the UK have had new windsheilds/screens 
made and, whilst they are perfect in every other way, they lack the 
little logo in the corner.

If I can get a good photo I can get them re-produced.

Best to send it as an attachment to james(at)dmc12.co.uk

Many thanks


James RG








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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 12:52:05 -0000
From: "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Engine cranks but no start




Hey List,

My newest problem with the Delo is she won't start.  The battery and 
starter will crank the engine over for 15 minutes but it doesn't 
fire.  Is this a problem with the cold start valve?  Or what other 
component could be the culprit?

Thanks
Willie









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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:56:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DMC open house travel arrangements



I'm probably driving to DMCH from Maryland for the Open House.

Anyone travelling a similar route who may be interested in driving as 
a group, feel free to email me offline.

Rich A.
#5335








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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 15:04:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but no start



It could be a fuel or ignition problem. Is the fuel pump running? Is
there any fuel in the tank? Do you have any spark at a plug? You need
to narrow it down a bit so you know which system to mess with. For
instance there is no need to mess with the fuel system if you don't
have any spark. BTW it is not good to crank the motor for 15 min. It
is terribly hard on the starter which is supposed to run only
intermittantly. It is also hard on the battery which should never be
run down to "dead". Recharge it slowly back to full charge before
doing anything else.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vtdmc" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey List,
> 
> My newest problem with the Delo is she won't start.  The battery and 
> starter will crank the engine over for 15 minutes but it doesn't 
> fire.  Is this a problem with the cold start valve?  Or what other 
> component could be the culprit?
> 
> Thanks
> Willie








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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 10:47:06 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Engine cranks but no start


Willie, The problem could be fuel or electrical. I can walk you through
several checks if you want to call.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
972-564-9321
9am till 9pm



-----Original Message-----
From: vtdmc [mailto:wmack_at_dml_vt.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 6:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine cranks but no start






Hey List,

My newest problem with the Delo is she won't start.  The battery and
starter will crank the engine over for 15 minutes but it doesn't
fire.  Is this a problem with the cold start valve?  Or what other
component could be the culprit?

Thanks
Willie









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 14:55:07 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but no start



Firstly, don't run the starter for more than a few seconds at a 
time. You will destroy the starter if you stay on it for extended 
periods of time. Secondly you need to ensure that you are getting 
both spark and fuel at the cylinder.  After attempting to start one 
or two times remove the air filter assembly and push on the pressure 
plate. If there is resistance then you should have fuel to the 
distributor at least. If the plate just pushes down without any 
resistance then no fuel is getting to the distributor and of course 
not getting to the injector. If you find that the plate offers no 
pressure that's another thread. If the plate does offer pressure, 
you may wish to test the ignition system to ensure you are getting 
spark. I am assuming that you have fuel in the system.
Sean









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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 08:34:33 -0800
From: Stephen Jones <smj_at_dml_cirr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but no start



On Feb 15, 2005, at 4:52 AM, vtdmc wrote:

> My newest problem with the Delo is she won't start.  The battery and
> starter will crank the engine over for 15 minutes but it doesn't
> fire.  Is this a problem with the cold start valve?  Or what other
> component could be the culprit?

Maybe your inertia switch has been tripped?  Look between your
brake and clutch pedals for a little box with a plunger on top.  Be
sure that is pressed down.  You shouldn't crank your engine for
more than a few turn overs if it won't start... be careful!






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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 19:40:45 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Rear tail light lense covers update **photos**



Hi all,

Just an update on the rear light lense covers I was having made, I
had a fair bit of interest and I have just collected the 1st set, I
must say they look pretty sharp.

I popped them on my car just for a quick photo shoot, the pics are
in the 'Photos' Section in the file labled 'Anouther Daft Project'

I think my car should win bad ass rear of the year :-)

All comments welcome


James RG









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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 21:15:06 +0100
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!


Hello All!

I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my post. Thank you for the 
advice!
The spots on my car seem to be in fact rust spots. It seems to be a very 
thin layer of rust - surface. I don't know why it happened. I did not use 
steel wool on the car and as far as I know it didn't come in contact with 
any chemicals. But as I said before, I've only had this car for about two 
years now and I don't know what the previous owner might have done to it. 
When I got the car it spent all this time in Florida and there was no 
problem with the SS. Now that I got the car shipped to cold Poland the spots 
suddenly appeared all over the car. We did get a lot of snow lately (read: 
salt on the roads). Maybe that was a factor that triggered this corrosion.
Anyway, I was able to find a chemical for cleaning stainless steel. It is a 
gel like stuff that contains phosphoric acid and is designed to remove 
calcium deposits and rust stains out of SS. I tried it on a little patch and 
it is just amazing! All of the rust spots are gone and the steel looks much 
brighter and shinier. And even after few more drives in the salt the cleaned 
part still looks brighter and the spots are NOT coming back. I am now 
waiting for a warmer day to treat the entire car. And the best part is that 
this stuff is cheap! I can use it to wash the entire car and not break a 
bank :)

Thank you all!

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


> Tom - There has been some great advice coming through on your
> question.  Here is a "think outside the box" response for you to
> consider.  I asked my materials experts what they would recommend
> for the lay person who has this issue on 304 CRES.  Assuming that
> you don't have access to exotic chemicals or flap sanders, try
> spongeing the areas to get them wet with Coca Cola.  While wet with
> Coke, rub the areas down with aluminum foil.... <SNIP>






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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:31:10 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Not so stainless?? HELP!


Don't keep us in suspense, what did you use?

>From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
>>
>Hello All!
>
>I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my post. Thank you for the
>advice!
>The spots on my car seem to be in fact rust spots. It seems to be a very
>thin layer of rust - surface. I don't know why it happened. I did not use
>steel wool on the car and as far as I know it didn't come in contact with
>any chemicals. But as I said before, I've only had this car for about two
>years now and I don't know what the previous owner might have done to it.
>When I got the car it spent all this time in Florida and there was no
>problem with the SS. Now that I got the car shipped to cold Poland the 
>spots
>suddenly appeared all over the car. We did get a lot of snow lately (read:
>salt on the roads). Maybe that was a factor that triggered this corrosion.
>Anyway, I was able to find a chemical for cleaning stainless steel. It is a
>gel like stuff that contains phosphoric acid and is designed to remove
---
>
>Thank you all!
>
>Tom Niemczewski
>jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
>VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
>Save the dream so you can live the dream...
>
>
> > Tom - There has been some great advice coming through on your
> > question.  Here is a "think outside the box" response for you to





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 21:36:31 -0000
From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: possible finger print fix



Yes Carroll is the household version of Avon. As to where to purchase 
it, I don't know just yet. Work buys it from the warehouse by the box 
but I will ask my boss where we get it and I will also bring home a 
can and take a picture of it and post it.

Josh 
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> Isn't Carroll kinda the household product version of "Avon"..?? 
Where do you 
> purchase it??
> 
> Steve
> #2700
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nun Yah" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 10:12 PM
> Subject: [DML] possible finger print fix
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > I have never used the stainless steel care kit for the DeLorean 
on my
> > car but I have something that greatly helps with finger prints on 
the
> > grade 304 stainless steel. It is called "Aqua Steel". The 
bathrooms
> > at work are stainless steel and we use it to clean them. Whenever 
you
> > touch the metal after applying this stuff on it, the prints 
disappear
> > after a few seconds.
> > The company's website is www.carrollco.com
> >
> > Josh
> > 10989
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:06:48 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: De Lorean _at_dml_ Detroit Autorama


Lawrence,

Had some experience with the Detroit autorama about 5 years ago.  Got 
to go there and meet with some of the players.
You don't get into this show unless you know someone or are invited.    
Open registration is really an illusion in case the big boys can't make 
it.

BOB


On Feb 13, 2005, at 10:28 PM, vin00538 wrote:

>
>
>
> Hello DML.
> Here's an up date for you on my autorama Detroit show, I got my 
> application return
> to sender from the post office & the address was correct!!! I called 
> the chairman of
> MHRA & he said he never got it or seen it But, Send him the form again 
> with the
> original envolpe post dated he'll try to still get me in but, doesn't 
> look likely since the
> show was full now I sent my application in 11/04 & got it back 
> unopened 02/05,
> sounds shady to me but, I'll keep on trying every year, I found out 
> where to hand
> deliver it to for 2006. so if ant thing changes I'll let you all know 
> again.
> Lawrence vin#00538 Michigan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:49:25 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC open house travel arrangements


I will be driving with trailer from Cincinnati

ken





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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