From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2480
Date: Thursday, February 17, 2005 8:08 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Fw: Houston suspension review
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

3. Re: Engine compartment latch?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. RE: HAVING TROUBLE
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: HAVING TROUBLE
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: Bricklin's new company.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. RE: HAVING TROUBLE
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Cooling System Problem Solved - T hanks for Help
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

11. Re: Rear tail light lense covers update **photos**
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Engine Trouble
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>

13. Re: Re: Bricklin's new company.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>

15. Re: Engine Trouble
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Engine Trouble
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. smoked front lens
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. High sltitude adjustment.
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. That time has come….For Sale!!
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Bricklin's new company.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

22. Textureing tool
From: chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. RE: Re: Engine Trouble
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Re: smoked front lens
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 03:53:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problems - still



Feel the lines into and out of your radiator. If the line in is cold,
 you could have a stuck closed thermostat. If the line out is cold, 
your radiator could be stopped up (passages are tiny, often victims of
mineral deposits).

My current engine came packed solid with cosmoline. Couldn't even run
water from the distribution or return ports past cylinders to drain
plugs (distribution pipe too was packed solid, as was the pump). I
cleaned it out as best I could,  but on the initial test drive
cosmoline backed up my radiator. You could actually feel temperature
plummet at the clog in the input line. 

Do not confuse "good flow into the coolant bottle" with a properly
functioning cooling system. That little line only bleeds air from the
heater core, and from the high point at the thermostat if equipped
with a self bleeder. Indicates nothing about coolant through the radiator.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all your replies to my previous post. Unfortunately, I'm
> still experiencing cooling system problems. . . OVERHEATING
> 
> I discovered the otterstat is not working so I used a jumper wire to
> get the fans to run, but still overheats.  I also bled the system but
> still overheats.
> 
> The car doesn't behave like I've previously experienced with a blown
> head gasket:  No engine miss, no vapor in exhaust, no signs of exhaust
> in coolant. 
> 
> Could this be thermostat related?  The temp. gage shows overheating,
> but the radiator (or coolant bottle) cap does not blow.  It is a new
> cap and opened at 15.5 psi with the pressure tester.
> 
> Could the problem be the water pump? The pump is a little noisy but
> shows good flow into the coolant bottle.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. 
> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250








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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 22:33:39 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Fw: Houston suspension review



----- Original Message ----- 
From: Cecil Longwisch<mailto:dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com> 
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 10:27 PM
Subject: Houston suspension review


I just want to tell the group that for the first time last weekend I had an opportunity to "try out" the Houston Eibach springs and shocks. Running with a new Porsche GT3 ,Turbo Carrera, and a supercharged Viper ... going to a show in Orlando, although  I could not keep up with them on the straight a ways, I did corner as well as the Porsche and probably better than the Viper on the ramps. I sure wanted the 140 mph speedometer as I had no idea how fast we were going. (Jacksonville to Orlando , 147 miles in traffic in 90 minutes , you do the math!)

I can not tell you how much lowering the car with these improved springs and shocks help the car.

The best thing I ever did to the car!

By the way it was a great exotic car show with 20 Ferraris ( including an Enzo), 12 Lamborghinis, 7 Vipers, 60 Porsches, one Rolls, one Bentley and one DeLorean!

There is another great show coming up in Celebration near Orlando which should be as good if not better. I hear last year there were 14 DeLoreans.

Sounds like a good event for the new Florida group?
  Cecil Longwisch
  #10663

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 04:19:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine compartment latch?



Louvers are not secure -- are supposed to latch to a little metal U
bolt on the engine cover, released from outside the vehicle.

Engine cover itself is supposed to latch via a little eye bolt to a
mechanism behind the rear fascia, in the general vicinity of the
license plate but not accessible by removing it (it is accessible by
removing the driver tail light however). That "switch" is really just
a grab handle on the operating cable.

This is how a complete setup should look:
http://www.pjgrady.com/partcat_detail.asp?m=102&t=Engine+Compartment+Cover
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=95&PageCat=8%2DFrame+and+Body

As you can see, both Rob and Houston sell whatever pieces you are missing.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Howdy fellow DeLorean owners/fans,
> One other thing I was wondering about is the engine cover and louvre 
> compartment. My DeLorean has no catch or latch to keep the 
> compartment securely shut. And like the manual shows, there is a pull 
> switch behind my driver's seat that is supposed to pop the "boot" or 
> in this case, rear hood. However, due to the combined weight of the 
> sunshade and engine cover, I never have to worry about it popping up 
> even when I'm on a bumpy, dirt road. But am I missing a piece that 
> goes back there or what?
> (The funny thing is, my other car has the exact opposite of a 
> problem: the hood is pretty much jammed shut and jury rigged to open 
> via what's left of my hood release cable! Murphy's law. >_<)
> -John








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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 22:21:32 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: HAVING TROUBLE


Dan, The information is on the second page of my web site under engine.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/portedairvaccolorcode.jpg

-----Original Message-----
From: allante932003 [mailto:allante932003_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 6:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] HAVING TROUBLE





I would appreciate if anyone could explain to me where the 3 vacumn
lines that come from the switch therm vacumn attach or hook up to.
thanks Dan








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 04:30:50 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: HAVING TROUBLE



The vacuum house routing diagram is located under your engine cover 
or in the workshop manual at D:08:01 Fig. 44.

DMC Joe

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "allante932003" <allante932003_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I would appreciate if anyone could explain to me where the 3 vacumn 
> lines that come from the switch therm vacumn attach or hook up to. 
> thanks Dan








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 04:30:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Bricklin's new company.



Wonder if these little Chinese cars will be more successful than the
Yugoslavian ones he imported in the 80's? 

Whatever one may say about JZD, I continue to drive one of his
brainchildren in daily service (very fast & comfortably I may add).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I posted a few months back about Bricklin's new
> project, and that Fred Dellis (of Legend industries)
> was involved in the project.
> 
> Looks like they have an official web site now.
> 
> http://vvcars.com/
> 









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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 04:42:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal



See Message #40512.

Retaining ring doesn't have anything to grab with pliers -- use
miniature screwdrivers instead.

Is quite easy after you get some practice.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> 
> Hey gang,
> Can anyone help me with some information on removing the speedometer
angle drive?  I have removed the large nut holding the angle drive but
I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the retaining ring
to release the angle drive from the nut.  Any thoughts as to how to
remove the retaining ring?
> This is turning out to be a tougher job than it looks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 06:11:32 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problems - still



>From the description of Woody's original problem it appears to be 
related to air bubbles trapped at the thermostat. There is a simple 
test to determine if trapped air is the problem.

Do the following start the car and allow it to run at idle speed 
until the temperature reaches approximately 210 degrees. That would 
place the temperature gauge needle just below the 220 mark. At that 
point gun the engine eight to ten times. While the engine continues 
to run at idle speed observe the temperature gauge needle. If the 
temperature rapidly drops the problem is caused by trapped air at the 
thermostat.

I wrote an article on this subject several years ago when I marketed 
the "Overheat Protector". 

Here is part of what I wrote: 

"The location of the DeLorean thermostat creates a situation that 
causes air in the coolant lines to collect at the thermostat. This 
condition keeps the thermostat closed preventing coolant from 
circulating through the radiator. Because the coolant remains cool at 
the otterstat the cooling fans will not turn on. If this condition is 
unchecked the engine temperature will rise resulting in an overheat 
condition. 

Before the DeLorean went into production this problem became evident 
during test trials. The result was the installation of an air bleed 
screw at the top of the thermostat housing. Unfortunately "how to" 
information for cooling system bleeding procedures was not included 
in either the owners manual or workshop manual. After continuous 
reports from dealers and service personal the factory issued Service 
Bulletin ST-09-10/82 issued 10/18/82. The procedure is a four step 
somewhat complex process and is somewhat lacks certain details that 
make it difficult to achieve satisfactory results.

Back in 1986 I realized that many DeLorean owners were experiencing 
this problem. This situation combined with the well known cooling fan 
electrical problems was putting engines at risk due to overheating. I 
decided to research the condition to see if I could find a permanent 
fix for the problem. Over the years many people have commented to me 
that I had created a great invention when I developed the "Overheat 
Protector". In reality it was pretty easy to figure out. The cooling 
system was already designed with an air bleed hose for the radiator 
and one for the heater core. What was missing was an air bleed hose 
for the thermostat. I began my research by simply adding a short 
length of hose with two brass fittings that would allow trapped air 
at the thermostat to be expelled back to the coolant bottle where the 
heater core air bleed hose is located. I installed a prototyped on my 
DeLorean and several of my clients DeLorean's. It was not long before 
I realized that this modification completely eliminated the trapped 
air problem. As a side benefit it completely eliminated the need 
to "air bleed" the cooling system for the life of the car."

When I closed my DeLorean business John Hervey at 
www.specialtauto.com requested selling the "Overheat Protector" at 
his on-line store. You can find it as the "self bleeder" on his 
coolant system page. 

DMC Joe









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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 20:58:23 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: HAVING TROUBLE


Look at 
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/ported-vac-diagram.jpg or 
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/vac-solenoid-switch.jpg.

Thanks, John Hervey, for your excellent references!

-joe Kuchan

>From: "allante932003" <allante932003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] HAVING TROUBLE
>Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 00:21:29 -0000
>
>
>
>
>I would appreciate if anyone could explain to me where the 3 vacumn
>lines that come from the switch therm vacumn attach or hook up to.
>thanks Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 00:08:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Cooling System Problem Solved - T hanks for Help



The thermostat was the cause of the overheating.  Expecting the worst
caused me to overlook the obvious.  For once, it did not cost me the
time & expense for a new water pump or head gasket exchange.

Thanks for all your help.

Woody


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
All your favorites on one personal page – Try My Yahoo!
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 11:00:03 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear tail light lense covers update **photos**



Dick,

Yep they are held on with a sort of industrial black plastic self-
adhesive Velcro.

I have stuck mine along the black plastic of the light clusters so 
you can whip the covers off and you wouldn't notice the Velcro.

*** Safety is of the utmost importance ***, I would only recommend 
these for show use, as I said I will be/have done extensive testing 
to check how much the light output is effected.

I will only sell them when I am completely satisfied that they allow 
enough light to pass through them; this will include testing in 
bright sunlight and at night, if it is not achievable then the 
project will be shelved.

Front covers are next on the list

All your comments are very welcome and will continue help me with 
this and future projects.



James



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Patrick
> 
> Just curious - are the tail light covers easily
> removable?  Years ago I had the smoked headlight
> covers that attached via velcro.  Looked great in the
> daylight and removed them at night for driving.  
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
> 
> --- jamesrguk <James_rg_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Patrick,
> > 
> > That is very true, they are really only a display
> > peice, but having 
> > tested several shades and gauges, the final ones
> > have only a very 
> > minimal effect on the light output from the rear.
> > 
> > Rest assured despite the 'not for road use' status I
> > will be 
> > rigorously testing them before selling any. 
> > 
> > I am fortunate to have anouther owners car sat next
> > to mine so I can 
> > do an exact comparison between betwen a car with the
> > covers and 
> > without.
> > 
> > 
> > James
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Patrick C."
> > <PRC1216_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Maybe its just me, but why on earth would you want
> > to darken the 
> > rear
> > > tailights?  Those are the only things stopping
> > someone not paying
> > > attention from plowing into you, and I would want
> > them as bright as
> > > possible, not dark.
> > > 
> > > Just my opinion,
> > > Patrick C.
> > > 1880
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail








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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:25:38 -0000
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Engine Trouble



Hello, I just purchased my first DeLorean vin 16579. I have had it 
about two weeks now and am having a bit of trouble. When I picked it 
up it ran fine, but the following day it had trouble starting. When 
I got it started it ran fine for about 5-10 mins then would not 
accelerate past 3000 rpms, ran slugish and then started to miss 
fire. I have had it at the shop, but the mechanics cant figure it 
out. Here is everything that I have done to the car since I 
purchased it. Cleaned the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel lines, new 
fuel pump, new fuel accumulator, new fuel distributor. It had a new 
warm up regulator on it when I purchased it. Can anyone guide me in 
the right direction? Also I was wondering what the frequency valve 
does, because the air tubing around mine is all torn would this have 
any effect on engine performance.

Thanks,
Justin Alivandi
deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com








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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 05:46:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Bricklin's new company.


If the idea is to say Briklin is a failure, I am
wondering if you ever heard of a company call Subaru?

Both JZD and Briklin had success and failures in their
career.  


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> Wonder if these little Chinese cars will be more
> successful than the
> Yugoslavian ones he imported in the 80's? 
> 


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:26:53 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal



Mike, if you can't get the retaining ring out, there is one sure way
to get the nut off.  Fasten the nut into a bench vise, and take a
hammer to  the old angle drive.  I ended up having to do this becuase
the retaining ring in my AD was totally corroded and fused to the
inside of the nut.  There was no other way to get it out.

Johnny
5518


> 
> Hey gang,
> Can anyone help me with some information on removing the speedometer
angle drive?  I have removed the large nut holding the angle drive but
I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the retaining ring
to release the angle drive from the nut.  Any thoughts as to how to
remove the retaining ring?
> This is turning out to be a tougher job than it looks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:06:45 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Trouble



Sounds like you've replaced all of the fuel components with the
exception of the fuel filter.  Try that first.

BTW: congradulations on your new DeLorean!

Johnny
5518

> Hello, I just purchased my first DeLorean vin 16579. I have had it 
> about two weeks now and am having a bit of trouble. When I picked it 
> up it ran fine, but the following day it had trouble starting. When 
> I got it started it ran fine for about 5-10 mins then would not 
> accelerate past 3000 rpms, ran slugish and then started to miss 
> fire. I have had it at the shop, but the mechanics cant figure it 
> out. Here is everything that I have done to the car since I 
> purchased it. Cleaned the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel lines, new 
> fuel pump, new fuel accumulator, new fuel distributor. It had a new 
> warm up regulator on it when I purchased it. Can anyone guide me in 
> the right direction? Also I was wondering what the frequency valve 
> does, because the air tubing around mine is all torn would this have 
> any effect on engine performance.
> 
> Thanks,
> Justin Alivandi
> deepdmc12_at_dml_c...








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:00:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problems - still



As good as the idea of a continuous bleed off the top of the
thermostat housing is it isn't required. If you properly bleed a
"tight" cooling system it just isn't needed. The problem comes when
you either do not properly bleed the car (which for the thermostat is
very easy) or you have leaks in the cooling system that allow air to
enter as the system cools off. From my experience (which isn't as much
as Joe's) the bleeding part is not that difficult but many cars are
not done properly anyway. The BIG problem is too many cars don't have
a tight cooling system. They are still running on many origional hoses
and seals. The systems leak. So instead of "biting the bullet" and
doing what is necessary it is very tempting to add an "Overheat
Protector". IMHO instead of doing the overheat protector do the Master
Water Pump Kit, a new radiator, and a metal header bottle. With an
upgraded fan relay and the relay upgrade kit you will have a
bulletproof cooling system. Of course the overheat protector is a
fraction of the price so people will continue to stick a "band aid" on
the cooling system and think it is fixed. The overheat protector by
itself is not bad, not having a tight cooling system IS. In fact in
this case the overheat protector was not even needed, it turned out to
be a defective thermostat.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From the description of Woody's original problem it appears to be 
> related to air bubbles trapped at the thermostat. There is a simple 
> test to determine if trapped air is the problem.
> 
>"T








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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:08:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Trouble



Make sure the pickup hose in the fuel tank is not collapsing. Replace
the fuel filter. Make sure the Lambda system is running and the
frequency valve is buzzing. Check and be sure there are no vacuum
leaks. Look to be sure the hole over the mixture screw is plugged. You
may require an adjustment of the mixture screw since you had the unit
changed. You may also have problems in the ignition system. Pull the
plugs and either clean and regap or replace. Test or replace the
ignition coil. If the ignition wires are old replace them, the cap and
rotor. Maybe the air filter is plugged up. Check the timing and the
mechanical and vacuum advance. In short maybe you just need a complete
tune-up. You may also need the injectors cleaned and tested. My guess
is the P.O. knew he had a problem and thought he could fix it with a
control pressure regulator.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 18:02:20 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: smoked front lens



Who sells these? and is one less permanent than the others?







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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 18:06:29 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: High sltitude adjustment.



Hi Guys

I just bought my DeLorean and I read in a service bulliten that 
there is a High altitude adjustment that can be performed.  Has 
anyone done this and can you offer the procedure?

Thanks 








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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:57:22 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: That time has come….For Sale!!


Hey guys, what can I say? After over two great years of ‘living my dream’ I 
am bowing out (for a little while at least). Yep, I’m selling 5497. She’s 
got quite a history and I’d loved to see her go to a good home. For a brief 
recap:

This car was on display at a museum in Sandwich, MA (Cape Cod) for 12 years. 
The museum was Heritage Plantation.

Appeared in an episode of Bob Villa’s ‘Home Again’ (I found out thanks to 
archived messages # 6962 AND 7348 on our own DML, THANKS!)

Was in an article for Delorean World (Volume 12, Number 4)

She has been a great vehicle but sadly I must part with her. Thanks 
especially to my local support group Dave Stragand, Dan Plakosh, Jeff Porter 
(sorry about the lack of heads-up). All those guys, especially Dave were an 
integral part in me getting this car running as well as it is. Also thanks 
to all of you that helped me throughout the years (John Hervey, Dave 
Teitelbaum, Don Steger, Dave Swingle, Marty Meier, etc., etc.) and this list 
as a whole

Here’s a compacted list of what I have done/replaced on the car (I have 
receipts for all, she is original and has 21,000 miles!):

Replaced Fuel pump and COMPLETELY cleaned out tank.
Replaced Fuel Accumulator
Had injectors professionally cleaned
Replaced Fuel filter
Replaced all hoses in gas tank
Replaced Control Pressure Regulator
Replaced front fascia with NOS
Replaced Radiator and coolant hoses
Replaced factory speakers (had tears from old age)
Installed Fanzilla, an upgrade to the electrical system for less stress from 
radiator fans blowing.
Replaced clutch slave cylinder
Replaced angle drive (controls speedometer function)
Replaced Brake Master cylinder
Replaced clutch lines with stainless ones (a necessity for driving in the 
summer)
New (ALL) headliners
New door seals
New battery
New Catalytic converter heat shield
Replaced all tires (brand new with less than 20 miles, yes 20!, on them)
Refinished wheels
Replaced front disc pads
New Idle Pulleys
Changed Brake fluid
Changed Clutch fluid
Changed coolant
Changed Transmission fluid
Changed Muffler heat shield
Changed to upgraded oil sender
Installed High output CD player
Replaced Trailing Arm Bolts with Toby TABs (look into this one, it’s 
important!)
COMPLETE tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor)


Additional items I will include:
Documents from MUSEUM (Heritage Plantation), validating claim about their 
ownership
Brochure from the MUSEUM (Heritage Plantation) showing THIS CAR
Delorean World magazine with article regarding THIS CAR
Bob Villa’s ‘Home Again’ official vhs tape (ordered from their web site) 
showing THIS CAR.
Appraisals done on the car while at the MUSEUM evaluating the condition to 
be “excellent throughout” and “as new with just 16,000 miles on the 
odometer”
Car cover from DMC Houston
Original radio bezel for easy restore to original radio
Spare cargo door for behind driver’s side seat
Front springs to restore car to original ride height (if so desired)
Original Radio
Service records and parts receipts
Workshop manuals
Service Bulletin manuals
Original headlights
Special full brochure provided by dealerships
Special mailing brochure (this has not been mailed and has no address was 
ever printed on it)
2 owners manuals, one with warranty cards still intact!
Sign constructed for car shows, specially engineered and constructed for 
this car
Several oil filters
Special tool for removing drain plug
Stainless steel cleaners

I’ll be trying to sell her on e-bay with a reserve around $18,000, but will 
be willing to let her go to someone on the list for $17,000 (unless the 
auction is in process), FIRM. I’m NOT selling her because there’s something 
wrong with her so I am not in a rush to sell. Serious buyers are welcome to 
contact me (NO TRADES!).

Only known issue:

Interior light does not come on when drivers side door open. That’s it.

This car is in Pittsburgh and is available for inspection.  I will include 
the ebay link once I list it (probably tomorrow or Saturday), that will have 
photos but I can also post them here too I think? Otherwise, I will e-mail 
photos to anyone that requests them. This is a great car and I know she will 
make someone VERY happy. This is truly a TURN-KEY Delorean

Thanks to everyone, I will continue to ‘lurk’ here and who knows what the 
future holds for another one….:) Will I regret selling this one? Probably, 
but everyone needs a little regret…







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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:04:02 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Bricklin's new company.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Whatever one may say about JZD, I continue to drive one of his
> brainchildren in daily service (very fast & comfortably I may add).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

Lemme guess here....

You Drive a Chevrolet Cosworth Vega! :)

(I couldn't resist!)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 17:43:30 -0000
From: chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Textureing tool



If anyone is interested I have an extra one. If interested please 
contact me off list.
Pictures of tool;

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL204/983745/6560162/85752547.jpg

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL204/983745/6560162/85752550.jpg

Chris
#6301









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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 14:40:28 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine Trouble


Justin, The CIS Tester is the way you measure the fuel pressure on the CIS
fuel system. Has that been done. It's like a blood pressure tester. If not
you could be throwing money at it all the time and still not fix it.
I have one I can loan out.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Under fuel systems.


-----Original Message-----
From: thebrave65 [mailto:ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 9:07 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine Trouble





Sounds like you've replaced all of the fuel components with the
exception of the fuel filter.  Try that first.

BTW: congradulations on your new DeLorean!

Johnny
5518

> Hello, I just purchased my first DeLorean vin 16579. I have had it
> about two weeks now and am having a bit of trouble. When I picked it
> up it ran fine, but the following day it had trouble starting. When
> I got it started it ran fine for about 5-10 mins then would not
> accelerate past 3000 rpms, ran slugish and then started to miss
> fire. I have had it at the shop, but the mechanics cant figure it
> out. Here is everything that I have done to the car since I
> purchased it. Cleaned the fuel tank, cleaned the fuel lines, new
> fuel pump, new fuel accumulator, new fuel distributor. It had a new
> warm up regulator on it when I purchased it. Can anyone guide me in
> the right direction? Also I was wondering what the frequency valve
> does, because the air tubing around mine is all torn would this have
> any effect on engine performance.
>
> Thanks,
> Justin Alivandi
> deepdmc12_at_dml_c...








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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:09:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: smoked front lens


There used to be a couple of vendors who carried them.
 I believe that no one is making them at the moment. 
Once in a while you may see them on ebay, but be
preapred to put out about 5 to 10 times what they sold
for new.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
--- Charles Major <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Who sells these? and is one less permanent than the
> others?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do?
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 23:22:11 -0000
From: "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?



Hi, has anyone ever used MAPP gas to free rusted Delorean bolts/studs
instead of oxygen-acetylene?  I'm trying to avoid buying an expensive
oxygen-acetylene setup and heard MAPP gas might be an alternative.

Thanks for any advice,
Mike VIN#5781








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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