From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2482
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005 11:32 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Bricklin's new company.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. RE: MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: Re: Engine Trouble
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. RE: That time has come..For Sale!!
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

7. B28F Water Pump Pulley
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Website that has pictures of parts
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

9. Re: smoked front lens
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

10. angle drive tips and suggestions
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

11. Daily Driver Insurance
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Engine Trouble
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: High sltitude adjustment.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Cooling System Problem Solved - T hanks for Help
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

16. FLL-Tower Shops
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Justin's title problem
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

18. YES, MAPP gas WORKS GREAT to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

20. Re: Daily Driver Insurance
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. agreed value appraisal
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

22. Re: Daily Driver Insurance
From: "turbodelorean" <dmcfan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Re: Cooling System Problem Solved - THERMOSTAT TEST
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

24. Re: Daily Driver Insurance
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

25. Re: Cooling System Problems - still
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 03:03:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Bricklin's new company.



Subaru of America was a total failure under Bricklin. Success came
many years AFTER he left the company (to start his own failed auto
manufacturing business). At least the Yugo sold. Consumer reviews were
just as unflattering, however.

But now that I mention it, the press panned our little silver cars too...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> If the idea is to say Briklin is a failure, I am
> wondering if you ever heard of a company call Subaru?
> 
> Both JZD and Briklin had success and failures in their
> career.  
> 









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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:10:39 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?


Mike, Depending on where you use it. I have used Mapp & Propane several
times to aid in loosening bolts and nuts.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: cambpd [mailto:cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?





Hi, has anyone ever used MAPP gas to free rusted Delorean bolts/studs
instead of oxygen-acetylene?  I'm trying to avoid buying an expensive
oxygen-acetylene setup and heard MAPP gas might be an alternative.

Thanks for any advice,
Mike VIN#5781








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:16:46 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine Trouble


Justin, I have seen FV not work because the 02 sensor was bad. If the 02
doesn't send the signal to the ECU then possible no reason for the FV to
work.
Just and FYI.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Justin Alivandi [mailto:deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 6:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Engine Trouble




Thanks for the help, I forgot to mention that the fuel filter was also
replaced. The frequency valve is not making any noise, so I guess I'll start
with that. What does the lambda system consist of, the oxygen sensor and the
computer control box anything else? The first thing I purchased were the
manuals but they are with the mechanics. Also where should the temp gauge be
reading? Mine only goes about 1/4-1/3 of the way up, but the engine gets
pretty warm. Do you know what is worse than not having the car of your
dreams? Having the car of your dreams and not being able to drive it. Thanks
for the help. I cant wait to get it running good. One more question kinda
off topic but the title says vin 16514 but the vin on the dash and door jam
says 16579 Is this something to be concerned about or just a typo. I haven't
gotten the car registered yet, but am concerned this might be a problem. The
PO said he purchased the car from the original owner who had three DeLoreans
maybe they mixed up the titles?
Thanks again you guys are great.
Justin Alivandi
16579
[moderator snip]





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 03:16:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: MAPP gas to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?



Use it all the time on all my vehicles (I have a penchant for rescuing
cars from the rust belt). Does not get nuts cherry red like acetylene,
but usually does break them enough to turn. Be sure to run a die down
the stud first -- since nuts aren't molten they won't be able to span
crappy threads.

I removed my entire original DeLorean exhaust system without breaking
a single 10mm stud (important because I re-used the manifolds). Used a
nut splitter on the 7mm's because I didn't want to risk snapping them
in any way. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, has anyone ever used MAPP gas to free rusted Delorean bolts/studs
> instead of oxygen-acetylene?  I'm trying to avoid buying an expensive
> oxygen-acetylene setup and heard MAPP gas might be an alternative.
> 
> Thanks for any advice,
> Mike VIN#5781








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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:20:12 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: That time has come..For Sale!!


Dom,
Sorry to hear you have to let the De Lorean go. It's been nice working with
you and maybe later you can get another.
You can list it on my site for nothing. I just need a couple good shots and
I have the description.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Dom Diaz [mailto:dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 1:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] That time has come….For Sale!!




Hey guys, what can I say? After over two great years of ‘living my dream’ I
am bowing out (for a little while at least). Yep, I’m selling 5497. She’s
got quite a history and I’d loved to see her go to a good home. For a brief
recap:

[moderator snip]





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:59:41 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Removal


It shouldn't be this hard.  On all the parts cars, the hardest part was 
removing the nut from the hub.  Once it was off, I just placed the nut 
into a bench vice, and used a nail tap and a hammer to punch the angle 
drive out...tapping from the inside of the nut.  Always popped right 
out.  I've even done mine this way a few times.  Never had any trouble, 
after figuring that out.

Good Luck Mike!

-Josh



Joe OBrien wrote:

>
>I've lerned the hard way that the only way that retaining ring will 
>let go is if you hack the angle drive in half and salvage the nut.
>
>Or just buy a new nut from a Vendor. In one instance helping someone 
>I managed to rip pff the nut from the retaining ring with my bare 
>hands, just once.
>
>
>Joe OBrien
>
[moderator snip]





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 03:24:56 -0000
From: "jmlaux83" <jmlaux83_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: B28F Water Pump Pulley



I have seen on some pictures I have found the Water pump pulley for 
the Volvo 260 with only one groove for a belt. I have a pulley with 
the two grooves for the two belts on my delo. Although I can still 
run the AC belt with the second groove it damages the AC belt 
slightly. Anyone know the part# of the other one or was it a special 
made? I was just going to have my pulley machined but if I can pick 
up the other one at any auto zone it would be better than going 
through the effort of machining.

Jason
2256








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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 03:44:09 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Website that has pictures of parts



Some time ago I ran across a website that had photographs of various 
parts in a Delorean and showed where they were located such as the 
Lamba unit, ECU, etc. I can't seem to find the site now. Does anyone 
know such sites?

Shannon
VIN 16113








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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 03:47:44 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: smoked front lens



You may want to get in touch with Byron Cancelmo (bcancelmo(at)
peninsulaplastics.com).  He is in the process of designing/producing  
covers that will be like the Lund covers.  

It would probably help him out to know how many people are interested.

Byron will also being doing an article for us on how these covers get 
produced.

Ron
Gullwing Magazine



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Who sells these? and is one less permanent than the others?








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:21:25 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: angle drive tips and suggestions



I have an August 81 DMC vin 3231. Currently it's a semi-daily driver
with 7300 original miles (sat for 15 years before I got it). My angle
drive is original and is functioning correctly.
After reading all about the angle drive and knowing about the high
failure rate, is there anything in particular I could do to the angle
drive and or whole speedometer cable system to hopefully prevent mine
from ever breaking? 








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:00:53 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Daily Driver Insurance



Hey all,

I have been catching up on old posts and come across the recent talk 
of insuring a DeLorean. I don't mean to reopen the thread, I just 
have a question about the agreed values. 

My DeLorean is my daily driver (like Robert I refuse to let some 
suit dictate how, when, and where I am allowed to drive my own car) 
and I am insured through Allstate. I don't have an agreed value, but 
when I went to them for the policy I had to show them the Napa blue 
book thing where it lists DeLorean book value as like Poor condition 
$9k, Fair to Good condition $17k, and Excellent condition $27k, so I 
wasn't too worried about being had by them trying to total the car 
to avoid $5k in repair costs.

For those of you that have your D's insured as daily drivers and 
have agreed upon values for them (VB was one, and I believe there 
were a few more?), what did you have to do to arrive at the agreed 
value? Did the insurance company send their own appraiser out to see 
the car or what? Please let me know, I think if I could get an 
agreed value it would be better peace of mind than gambling in the 
$9k to $27k range. Thanks all!

Dave
#5968








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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:22:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Trouble



The 2 most common problems with the frequency valve are the relay # 30
going bad and the ground wire for the frequnecy valve not being
connected. It is on the right side of the motor towards the front and
is a short wire with a plug on it that MUST be attached to ground on
the engine. The #30 relay is in the front row 4th from the left next
to the big green relay. The title IS a BIG deal. The numbers have to
match. If the vin tag on the dash AND the metal plate on the door jamb
are the same # then the title had better also be that #. Get in touch
with the P.O. and see if he can find you the title with YOUR vin #. If
he cannot you cannot legally title and register your car with another
car's title. You might have to sue the P.O. and have the sale reversed
if he cannot come up with a legit title for the car he sold you. This
is fraud and he can go to jail for misrepresentation. I hope for your
sake it is just an honest mistake that he can correct. On the flip
side, if the title you hold is for another of his cars then he can't
sell that other car without the title you now have. It is in
everyone's best interest for the P.O. to "do the right thing" if he
can. The #'s are too far off for it to be a simple transposition or
typo. On the temp, it seems to be normal. Your BIG problem is not
getting the car running, it is getting a proper title for it. Without
that title all you have is a pile of parts that LOOKS like a car. You
will NEVER be able to get plates on it legally with that title.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Justin Alivandi" <deepdmc12_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the help, I forgot to mention that the fuel filter was also 
> replaced. The frequency valve is not making any noise, so I guess
I'll start 
>








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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:22:09 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problems - still



You are missing the point. As you mentioned, if every component in 
the cooling system is operating at spec and there are no leaks at any 
of the components that connect to the cooling system than there is no 
need for an air bleed device at the thermostat. Unfortunately in the 
real world this is not always the case. When you consider the number 
of connections and components in the cooling system sooner or later 
there will be a leak. Any leak in the system will cause air to be 
drawn into the system which will eventually collect at the thermostat 
leading to an engine overheat condition. 

It's easy for people like yourself, who can easily diagnose, replace, 
and maintain the components you mentioned. Unfortunately for many 
owners, especially the ones that are distant from knowledgeable 
service centers or don't service their own cars a loose clamp could 
cause an owner to be stranded in his DeLorean. Worse yet engine could 
suffer permanent damage

You when you said "The BIG problem is too many cars don't have
a tight cooling system." You're exactly right; that is why the 
Overheat Protector is such a valuable item.

The overheat protector is safety device and does just what it says; 
it will prevent the engine from going into an overheat condition if 
air is drawn into the system. The side benefit of the device is that 
it eliminates the need to manually air bleed the cooling system. 

DMC Joe


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> As good as the idea of a continuous bleed off the top of the
> thermostat housing is it isn't required. If you properly bleed a
> "tight" cooling system it just isn't needed. The problem comes when
> you either do not properly bleed the car (which for the thermostat 
is
> very easy) or you have leaks in the cooling system that allow air to
> enter as the system cools off. From my experience (which isn't as 
much
> as Joe's) the bleeding part is not that difficult but many cars are
> not done properly anyway. The BIG problem is too many cars don't 
have
> a tight cooling system. They are still running on many origional 
hoses
> and seals. The systems leak. So instead of "biting the bullet" and
> doing what is necessary it is very tempting to add an "Overheat
> Protector". IMHO instead of doing the overheat protector do the 
Master
> Water Pump Kit, a new radiator, and a metal header bottle. With an
> upgraded fan relay and the relay upgrade kit you will have a
> bulletproof cooling system. Of course the overheat protector is a
> fraction of the price so people will continue to stick a "band aid" 
on
> the cooling system and think it is fixed. The overheat protector by
> itself is not bad, not having a tight cooling system IS. In fact in
> this case the overheat protector was not even needed, it turned out 
to
> be a defective thermostat.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 









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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:30:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: High sltitude adjustment.



Refer to the Workshop Manual D:04:03-:04. Not being in a "High
Altitude Area" I cannot offer any advice on this procedure. Maybe an
owner in Denver can help. In any case it is not necessary if the car
is only there temporaraly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> I just bought my DeLorean and I read in a service bulliten that 
> there is a High altitude adjustment that can be performed.  Has 
> anyone done this and can you offer the procedure?
> 
> Thanks








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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:43:03 -0000
From: "Joe LoRe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problem Solved - T hanks for Help



Woody,

Glad to hear that you fixed your problem. One thing I would like to 
add. From my experience thermostats have an extremely low failure 
rate. It is possible that when you opened the system and installed 
the replacement thermostat you may have inadvertently corrected an 
air-lock condition at the thermostat.

I would be interested to know what results you might have if you test 
the thermostat that you replaced. The thermostat can be easily tested 
by placing it in a pan of water heated on your stove. Keep in mind 
that when you are conducting the test in an open container the 
thermostat will not open until the water approaches the boiling point.

DMC Joe 


DMC Joe

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The thermostat was the cause of the overheating.  Expecting the 
worst
> caused me to overlook the obvious.  For once, it did not cost me the
> time & expense for a new water pump or head gasket exchange.
> 
> Thanks for all your help.
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> All your favorites on one personal page – Try My Yahoo!
> http://my.yahoo.com








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 20:47:06 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: FLL-Tower Shops


Anyone going to be at the Tower Shops in Ft. Lauderdale this Friday night the 18th?  I'll be there with my 83' Delorean, e-mail me off list for deatils.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 22:52:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Justin's title problem


Justin,

On my first D, I discovered an error on the title # when I transfered
my plates from Illinois to Iowa.  I was the second owner but learned
that the title # error went back to DMC.  

I had to get an Iowa DOT officer to inspect the car and verify that the
only error was a "1" instead of an "L" or vice versa.

The worst part was that I got a ticket for speeding and no valid
registration on my way to meet the officer.  The officer that pulled me
over did not have a sense of humor at first.  Seems I didn't see his
lights for a couple of miles.  Cessna 3 - 5 - triple 5, downwind for
runway 37 at . . . 




		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo 





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 23:14:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: YES, MAPP gas WORKS GREAT to loosen rusted Delorean bolts?



Mike,

I first used MAPP gas because I did not have a torch handy; now, it's
my method of choice for freeing frozen bolts, particularly exhaust
manifold bolts.

I use a torch with a fine tip; one that's designed to take the higher
temps of MAPP (not a standard propane torch).  The fine tip avoids
surrounding damage due to friendly fire and directs the heat where it
is needed.  Mostly, I've used the MAPP gas & torch to loosten exhaust
manifold bolts.

FYI, 14 years after first using this method and a copper anti-sieze on
the replacement studs, all I needed to remove the nuts and studs was a
wrench.

Another aside: When removing frozen or broken steel bolts on the
crossover pipe and cat. converter,I've had success using an actelene
torch to heat, then hit the air to blow out the bold, leaving the
threads in the pipe. . . This is a little gutsey, but it works.  I've
used the same method to remove a broken bolt from a casting.  Still,
use at your own risk; you could damage the female part.

Woody


		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do?
http://my.yahoo.com 





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 23:29:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling System Problems - still


David, et.al.,

At the risk of being verbose (I'm on my 3rd response tonight), I have
to respond in agreement with your post.

A new radiator, new coolant electronics, all new silicone hoses (with
the special clamps for the softer silicone), new coolant bottle, etc.
is good for bulletprofing the system.

I've been evaluating an additional mod which would convert the
pressurized coolant bottle with the more common overflow system.

Woody

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 06:08:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Daily Driver Insurance


I have been doing this for years, on a number of cars
(in New Jersey).

My insurance company required photos of the car, along
with a letter from a reputable appraiser setting the
value of the car.

--- usndmc <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

><SNIP>
> For those of you that have your D's insured as daily
> drivers and 
> have agreed upon values for them (VB was one, and I
> believe there 
> were a few more?), what did you have to do to arrive
> at the agreed 
> value? Did the insurance company send their own
> appraiser out to see 
> the car or what? Please let me know, I think if I
> could get an 
> agreed value it would be better peace of mind than
> gambling in the 
> $9k to $27k range. Thanks all!



		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:08:22 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: agreed value appraisal



The agreed value policies I have allow you to select the appraiser ( you 
also pay their fee).
They have been very liberal with their assesment of my cars in the past and 
I have generally had to ask them to lower them to keep the insurance rates 
lower.
Unless yours is one of the "special" cars of a previous long thread I don't 
think you need replacement insurance over $27,000. You can find appraisers 
in the phone book or usually at car shows. You do need one that is 
knowledgable in older cars however.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663









>From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Daily Driver Insurance
>Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 04:00:53 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Hey all,
>
>I have been catching up on old posts and come across the recent talk
>of insuring a DeLorean. I don't mean to reopen the thread, I just
>have a question about the agreed values.
>
>My DeLorean is my daily driver (like Robert I refuse to let some
>suit dictate how, when, and where I am allowed to drive my own car)
>and I am insured through Allstate. I don't have an agreed value, but
>when I went to them for the policy I had to show them the Napa blue
>book thing where it lists DeLorean book value as like Poor condition
>$9k, Fair to Good condition $17k, and Excellent condition $27k, so I
>wasn't too worried about being had by them trying to total the car
>to avoid $5k in repair costs.
>
>For those of you that have your D's insured as daily drivers and
>have agreed upon values for them (VB was one, and I believe there
>were a few more?), what did you have to do to arrive at the agreed
>value? Did the insurance company send their own appraiser out to see
>the car or what? Please let me know, I think if I could get an
>agreed value it would be better peace of mind than gambling in the
>$9k to $27k range. Thanks all!
>
>Dave
>#5968
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 14:26:45 -0000
From: "turbodelorean" <dmcfan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Daily Driver Insurance



Well mine is not my daily driver as I can't see doing that to an 
exotic car like the DeLorean, but I used to be insured through 
Haggerty collector car insurance with an agreed value of $34,000. 
Since I am under 26 their rates doubled this year so I was forced to 
look at alternatives. My daily driver is insured with Allstate. I 
didn't know if they did agreed value policies but I figured I would 
ask and they do. I told my agent that the car was insured for $34,000 
through Haggerty and that was enough for him to insure it at that 
value. Not only did it cost less to insure the DeLorean, only $10 a 
month while it sits during the winter and covered in case of a 
comprehensive loss and $45 for the months I am driving it, but it 
took $100 off every six months on my Honda S2000 with the multi car 
discount. That worked for me!

Peter








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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 06:32:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling System Problem Solved - THERMOSTAT TEST



Joe,

I agree the Delorean thermostats have a low fail rate.  The one from my
parts car has been working for 20+ years.

I tested both the thermostat I removed and, before installing, the one
I installed off of my parts car.  The one I removed was definitely not
opening.

I've found using the water/thermometer test to be a good practice for
verifying the opening temp - even with a new thermostat.

Woody


		
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 06:41:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Daily Driver Insurance



Dave,

As I understand "agreed value," it is the maximum the insurance company
will spend for the car if totaled. It is not a fixed value.

Woody


		
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 14:52:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Problems - still



Putting an overflow bottle on is a no-brainer. When I changed over to
a metal header bottle I was no longer able to check the coolant level.
To fix that I could have used a clear hose with two fittings top and
bottom into the header bottle but I couldn't find any clear hose that
could take the pressure and temperature. It was then that it made
perfect sense to just add a hose to the fitting under the pressure cap
and run a hose over to an overflow bottle. I mounted mine just ahead
of the carbon cannister on the left side of the engine compartment and
ran the hose over the motor. You need a fairly large bottle because
the Delorean has such a large volume of coolant so there is more to
expand and contract. You also want to try to keep the overflow bottle
as close to the same level as the pressure cap to avoid creating a
"head" ie, a differential that can cause a siphon. This overflow also
helps to prevent any foaming and it reduces the air in the system so
it should reduce corrosion. The biggest problem is you have to have a
TIGHT (leakproof) system because it is almost always under pressure
and is usually at a higher pressure longer because there is no air in
the system to compress. As soon as you start to heat the coolant up
you have the system under pressure. Be gentle with the fitting under
the pressure cap on the header bottle. On mine it was just a tight fit
and when I pushed the hose on it fell out. I epoxyed it back on so it
wouldn't leak. Any generic overflow kit will work. This is one of the
cheaper (read inexpensive) upgrades and is not so difficult so just
about any owner could do it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> David, et.al.,
> 
> At the risk of being verbose (I'm on my 3rd response tonight), I have
> to respond in agreement with your post.
> 
> A new radiator, new coolant electronics, all new silicone hoses (with
> the special clamps for the softer silicone), new coolant bottle, etc.
> is good for bulletprofing the system.
> 
> I've been evaluating an additional mod which would convert the
> pressurized coolant bottle with the more common overflow system.
> 
> Woody









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