From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2486
Date: Monday, February 21, 2005 7:45 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: Re: Clutch Problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. RE: Brakecylinder
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

5. Re: Clutch Problem
From: "jpro8071" <jpro8071_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. RE: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: Re: Clutch Problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

13. Window & Blower Question
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

14. VIN 020098
From: Joshua Schwartz <Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: TOBY TAB install question for [sweitzel_2000]
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

17. RE: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

21. Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

22. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Alternators
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Rob Grady Tech Session at Florida Concours April 30
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>

25. Re: Interior color
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 00:32:09 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision



Hey Everyone,

Thanks a ton for your advice.  I'm located in Denver Colorado if 
there is anyone out there that might want to get together some 
time.  Thanks Rich for referring me to Robert!  I actually looked at 
Tamir's site after posting this and went "DOH".  I contacted one of 
his associates that helped him in Denver and he forwarded me to 
Robert so hopefully I'll hear back soon from him.  Since my vehicle 
is the exact same year, tranmission, and situation it might be 
easier and more fun to go that way.  

This definitely is a project car, which is what I've always wanted.  
I've never been a big fan of the 130 HP engine but do respect having 
original parts etc.  The Lotus V8 Twin Turbo I found has all of the 
parts from the engine compartment and the guy is looking to find a 
Renault Manual Tranmission to send with it as well.  He's selling me 
the engine for around 3k (haven't really negotiated or anything)and 
it's broken down with all the parts so I could go through the engine 
and make sure it's ready to go.  He said he recently sold another 
Lotus V8 to a Delorean owner and using a Renault Transmission he was 
able to install it and burn rubber.  He referred me to him as well 
so it'll be good to speak to some people that have experience doing 
these things.    

As for this project and pictures, I'll be setting up a website soon 
through a friend so people can watch the transformation.  The car is 
currently Dark Blue but thankfully the paint chips off with my 
finger nails which leads me to believe they didn't prep the 
stainless like they should have (and it's really pretty underneath 
the paint I've removed so far).  I've checked all the panels and 
they aren't covering anything up so I should be good there.  I 
checked with the local auto paint dealer and they said not to use 
chemical stripper because it could possibly stain the SS.  I 
definitely don't want to take any chances but they said to try using 
a water pressure washer first.  I'm going to run a few tests but it 
should hopefully come off easy using this method since it chips off 
with my finger nails (No, I don't want to chip all the paint off the 
car using my finger nails).  A local guy here uses plastic beads to 
blast off paint but I hope I can get most of it off using the 
pressure washer. If anyone has any other methods that are proven, 
let me know.     

I can also ask my guy if he has any more Lotus V8's on the way if 
anyone else is interested.  He recently sold a 2001 Lotus V8 Twin 
Turbo Engine for like 8k.  

Thanks,

Brandon N.
Vin 3323

PS. My wife just recently saw someone drive by our house in a 
DeLorean.  Made her appreciate the car a bit more :)  She's still 
warming up to it!  I'm wondering if it might have been any of you 
guys out here?  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> There are often used DMC PRV engines around for considerably less 
> than $5000 as well. It really depends on what your budget is - the 
> spred between your ideas is probably $10,000 lowest to highest. 
How 
> much are you trying to spend (or not spend?). Are you trying to 
build 
> up a performance car or just a D to drive?
> 
> The Eagle engine swap has been done but there are options there - 
did 
> he attempt to keep the original Bosch mechanical FI from the DMC 
or 
> did he get the EFI and computer from the Eagle? 
> 
> Your simplest/cheapest way out would be to find a good used DMC 
> engine and put it back to "normal". Anything else will require a 
fair 
> amount of backyard engineering - so it depends on how good you are 
at 
> that. If you go this route try and get a "dressed" engine, i.e. 
> alternator, manifolds, etc. Not that you need all that, but it may 
> save you a lot of time finding all the little brackets and 
fittings 
> that you are likely missing. 
> 
> Be prepared to find some problems with that transmission - if it's 
> been sitting a long time other things go bad. 
> 
> Sounds like a good project car. 
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > The least expensive option would be to go with an origional PRV
> > engine. Around $5k. 
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "brandelorean" 
<brandelorean_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Everyone!
> > > 
> > > Since I was a little kid, I knew I wanted a DeLorean and I 
> finally 
> > > have one!  I decided to purchase a 1981 DeLorean that is in 
need 
> of 
> > > some much needed TLC.  The body is in great condition, but the 
> > > engine seems to be the only issue.  A mechanic blew out the 
> original 
> > > engine several years ago and a new mechanic tried to place a 
1992 
> > > Eagle Premiere Engine in the vehicle.  I recently hoisted the








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 18:52:38 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Clutch Problem


Jim, Wonder where the fluid went that was in there. Look at where the clutch
peddle shaft goes thru the fire wall and into the master. If you see fluid,
then the main seal is leaking and the fluid id going into the carpet.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:jimbo0946_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 2:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Clutch Problem




Thank you for all that have helped.  It was in fact that the fluid was low.
I filled the system, bled the air out, and everything was fine.  I plan on
running through the whole system and see if I can see a small leak
somewhere.

I'm not sure how much hydraulic fluid it takes, but I put in about a
cup...didn't seem too much, then bled it.

My D only has 23,500 miles on it.

Thanks Again,
Jim
VIN#15880





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 18:56:10 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brakecylinder


The cylinder looks ok, You just need the seal that goes around the part that
connects to the servo unit. Check the threads where the lines go in. That
could be different. Also, if you purchased it from a Delorean vendor then it
would be correct.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Johan [mailto:dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 1:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Brakecylinder




The old one is still on the car, the one on the pics is the new :)
I haven't begun with the work yes just purchased the cylinder. I guess
dml:ers has gone thru this before so just checking if its the right part.

Regards
Johan
5425

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
> To: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 8:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Brakecylinder
>
>
>> It looks correct. Why do you want to take it apart? It looks new.
>>
>> Dave
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
>> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 1:08 PM
>> Subject: [DML] Brakecylinder
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm about to change brake cylinder.
>> Just woundering if this is the proper part before i rip it apart.
>>
>> Please look att the pictures of the cylinder i bought this weekend.
>> http://dmc.yournetalbum.com    click on "brake cylinder" folder.
>>
>> Regards
>> Johan
>> 5425
>>
>





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 21:30:40 -0600
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Starting problems... cold, now warm.


I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A 
good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to 
get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!

First I had a lingering cold start problem - after sitting overnight, 
my DeLorean would have very hard cold starts.  It would crank for a 
bit, then slowly (5 seconds or so) sputter to life.  After getting 
started, it would run fine and would always fire right up when warm to 
hot.  Installing a new fuel filter seems to have solved that problem 
before I had to break out the pressure gauge.  That was last weekend...

Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with no 
hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  I 
parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't start!  
It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The fuel 
pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of the 
key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve using 
the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I drove 
straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately tried 
starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once 
again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had to 
leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not hot" 
zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.

Known variables: fuel pump = replaced in late 2000, thermo-time switch: 
less than a year old.. and the cold start valve seems to be working 
properly - I pulled it out a few weeks ago to check.  Fuel 
accumulator... ?  It could very well be the original.

Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance to do 
further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem is a 
bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a 
problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 years 
and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:

1) Is there any possibility that I have killed my fuel accumulator 
simply by swapping the filter?  That seems odd...

2) Can a faulty fuel accumulator be sporadic?  Or, assuming that it's 
bad, did I just get lucky with my timing since it's gone bad?  It would 
seem to be to be more of a binary, broken or not-broken, part to me.

3) Is there anything else besides the check valve on the pump that 
could be the culprit here?

Thanks for any ideas.

Travis Graham
#06344






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 03:37:08 -0000
From: "jpro8071" <jpro8071_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem



I need to bleed my clutch, can someone send a few extra details on the
easiest way to get to the bleed valve on the transmission end? 
Easiest with the car in the air?  Left side or right side for access?
Thanks,
Eric

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> 
> Jim - The very first thing to do is check the fluid level in the 
> clutch fluid reservoir.  The clutch system is hydraulic, so there is 
> no cable to simply tighten.  If the level has dropped significantly, 
> there may be air in the system now.  You will have to bleed that air 
> out before the clutch will work correctly.  If the fluid level has 
> gone down, you have a leak someplace.  The list of possible leak 
> sources includes the master cylinder (look for fluid on the driver's 
> side floor mat between the brake pedal and gas pedal), the hose 
> between the reservoir and the master cylinder (rubber, known to 
> deteriorate over time), the hydraulic fluid line (original is 
> plastic and is known to fail) between the master cylinder and the 
> slave cylinder, and finally; the slave cylinder (mounted on top of 
> the transmission bell housing just forward of the engine).  Pick 
> your favorite vendor for any parts that you find are not correct.  
> Diagnosing problems in this system does require some removal of 
> access panels, and also access to a lift or some good ramps for 
> inspections and repairs under the car.  Feel free to contact me off-
> list for any additional information.  Good luck.
> 
> GENERAL GUIDANCE - Check all fluid levels *before* you have an issue 
> like this, rather than after.  Includes brakes, clutch, coolant, 
> transmission oil, and engine oil.  Good maintenance practice.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jimbo0946_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > I went to take my D out for a nice little drive and as soon as I 
> sat down and felt the pedals, I knew something was wrong.  The 
> clutch felt extremely loose.  I still have the original stiff 
> clutch.  When I press on the pedal it feels like a normal loose 
> clutch, found in today's cars, for about 75% of the way.  The 
> remaining quarter of the way, it feels like it should.  It won't go 
> into gear all the time, but will sometimes.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 03:45:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision



It looks like you have made up your mind. Just do this before you
start. Check on the prices of some of the parts that go into a Lotus
engine. You will be shocked. Also some of the parts (timing belts) are
time-lifed meaning they must be changed out. It might mean having to
remove the motor to do it. In any case you might want to change them
anyway before you install the motor, especially if you cannot be sure
of how much life is left in them (meaning how many miles the motor had
on it before you got it). BTW pistons are $1200 EACH and there are 8
of them! You may be getting a real deal on this motor because it is
basically used up. 45,000 miles on a Lotus engine is a lifetime!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> Thanks a ton for your advice.  I'm located in Denver Colorado if 
> there is anyone out there that might want to get together some 
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 22:19:07 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Starting problems... cold, now warm.


Travis, Anywhere in the fuel system where the pressure can bleed after a bit
could cause Hot Start. But, Normally it's the accumulator. One of the other
primary bleed off is the primary pressure regulator in the fuel distributor.
With my accumulator I give you the O Rings to replace them. It's real easy.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/hot-start-kit.jpg





-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Graham [mailto:tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 9:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Starting problems... cold, now warm.




I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A
good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to
get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!

First I had a lingering cold start problem - after sitting overnight,
my DeLorean would have very hard cold starts.  It would crank for a
bit, then slowly (5 seconds or so) sputter to life.  After getting
started, it would run fine and would always fire right up when warm to
hot.  Installing a new fuel filter seems to have solved that problem
before I had to break out the pressure gauge.  That was last weekend...

Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with no
hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  I
parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't start!
It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The fuel
pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of the
key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve using
the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I drove
straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately tried
starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once
again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had to
leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not hot"
zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.

Known variables: fuel pump = replaced in late 2000, thermo-time switch:
less than a year old.. and the cold start valve seems to be working
properly - I pulled it out a few weeks ago to check.  Fuel
accumulator... ?  It could very well be the original.

Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance to do
further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem is a
bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a
problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 years
and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:

1) Is there any possibility that I have killed my fuel accumulator
simply by swapping the filter?  That seems odd...

2) Can a faulty fuel accumulator be sporadic?  Or, assuming that it's
bad, did I just get lucky with my timing since it's gone bad?  It would
seem to be to be more of a binary, broken or not-broken, part to me.

3) Is there anything else besides the check valve on the pump that
could be the culprit here?

Thanks for any ideas.

Travis Graham
#06344






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005 23:17:24 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Clutch Problem


Eric, It's not easy, but here is a shot of the bleed screw from the
passenger side.
  http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/clutch-adjustment-2.jpg

John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: jpro8071 [mailto:jpro8071_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 9:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Clutch Problem





I need to bleed my clutch, can someone send a few extra details on the
easiest way to get to the bleed valve on the transmission end?
Easiest with the car in the air?  Left side or right side for access?
Thanks,
Eric

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
>
>
> Jim - The very first thing to do is check the fluid level in the
> clutch fluid reservoir.  The clutch system is hydraulic, so there is
> no cable to simply tighten.  If the level has dropped significantly,
> there may be air in the system now.  You will have to bleed that air
> out before the clutch will work correctly.  If the fluid level has
> gone down, you have a leak someplace.  The list of possible leak
> sources includes the master cylinder (look for fluid on the driver's
> side floor mat between the brake pedal and gas pedal), the hose
> between the reservoir and the master cylinder (rubber, known to
> deteriorate over time), the hydraulic fluid line (original is
> plastic and is known to fail) between the master cylinder and the
> slave cylinder, and finally; the slave cylinder (mounted on top of
> the transmission bell housing just forward of the engine).  Pick
> your favorite vendor for any parts that you find are not correct.
> Diagnosing problems in this system does require some removal of
> access panels, and also access to a lift or some good ramps for
> inspections and repairs under the car.  Feel free to contact me off-
> list for any additional information.  Good luck.
>
> GENERAL GUIDANCE - Check all fluid levels *before* you have an issue
> like this, rather than after.  Includes brakes, clutch, coolant,
> transmission oil, and engine oil.  Good maintenance practice.
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jimbo0946_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > I went to take my D out for a nice little drive and as soon as I
> sat down and felt the pedals, I knew something was wrong.  The
> clutch felt extremely loose.  I still have the original stiff
> clutch.  When I press on the pedal it feels like a normal loose
> clutch, found in today's cars, for about 75% of the way.  The
> remaining quarter of the way, it feels like it should.  It won't go
> into gear all the time, but will sometimes.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:29:16 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.



If you've never replaced the accumulator and believe it is
original-that is you're problem. Replace this and if your problem
still remains, at least you have a new accumulator you never have to
worry about again. Sounds like an accumulator problem as you
mentioned. Once it goes-it goes, fuel filter should have nothing to do
with it going, it is probably just coincidence. -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 06:09:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)



This procedure is best accomplished from above due to the angle of the
bleeder screw -- sorry. An extra long extension (12") on the socket
wrench makes the job easier. Practice locating the bleeder screw by
feel because it's difficult to see it and reach into it
simultaneously. I'd recommend the hose-immersed-in-fluid method so you
only have to open & close the bleeder screw one time: pour some brake
fluid into a jar, run a hose from the bleeder screw to the jar
positioned so that air bubbles will rise to the surface, then force
several reserviors of fluid through the system by pumping the pedal.
Because the slave cylinder is higher than the master cylinder I insert
a check valve in the hose, allowing me to bleed the system without
assistance. Monitor the level of fluid in the reservoir -- if it runs
dry you'll have to start all over again. 

BTW: Should you ever need to replace the slave cylinder, this is best
accomplished from below *IF* you can remove the exhaust crossover pipe
(some people have trouble removing nuts on the manifold and converter
studs). Slave cylinder mounting bolts are inserted from the front of
the car -- very difficult from above with the intake manifold and
fuel/air mixture unit in place. If you remove the exhaust crossover
pipe, reinstall it with stainless nuts to aid future removal. So many
items, such as cap & rotor, spark plug wires, heater core and vacuum
hoses, etc are easily accessed from below that you will want to take
it off again.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jpro8071" <jpro8071_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I need to bleed my clutch, can someone send a few extra details on the
> easiest way to get to the bleed valve on the transmission end? 
> Easiest with the car in the air?  Left side or right side for access?
> Thanks,
> Eric
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:12:56 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.



I'm not sure you have a problem yet. The problem could be several 
things - accumulator one of them. It could be some contamination 
from the fuel filter change that needs to yet be flushed through the 
system. The accumulator is not necessarily an on/off thing. An 
accumulator problem can show up as an intermittent problem or all 
the time. Once it starts to leak internally however, it will get 
worse. If you lack the gauge to check the system and have never 
replaced the accumulator that would be good place to start.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start 
problem!  A 
> good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I 
want to 
> get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
> 
> First I had a lingering cold start problem - after sitting 
overnight, 
> my DeLorean would have very hard cold starts.  It would crank for 
a 
> bit, then slowly (5 seconds or so) sputter to life.  After getting 
> started, it would run fine and would always fire right up when 
warm to 
> hot.  Installing a new fuel filter seems to have solved that 
problem 
> before I had to break out the pressure gauge.  That was last 
weekend...
> 
> Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with 
no 
> hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  
I 
> parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't 
start!  
> It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The 
fuel 
> pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of 
the 
> key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve 
using 
> the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I 
drove 
> straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately 
tried 
> starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once 
> again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had 
to 
> leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not 
hot" 
> zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
> 
> Known variables: fuel pump = replaced in late 2000, thermo-time 
switch: 
> less than a year old.. and the cold start valve seems to be 
working 
> properly - I pulled it out a few weeks ago to check.  Fuel 
> accumulator... ?  It could very well be the original.
> 
> Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance 
to do 
> further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem 
is a 
> bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a 
> problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 
years 
> and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:
> 
> 1) Is there any possibility that I have killed my fuel accumulator 
> simply by swapping the filter?  That seems odd...
> 
> 2) Can a faulty fuel accumulator be sporadic?  Or, assuming that 
it's 
> bad, did I just get lucky with my timing since it's gone bad?  It 
would 
> seem to be to be more of a binary, broken or not-broken, part to 
me.
> 
> 3) Is there anything else besides the check valve on the pump that 
> could be the culprit here?
> 
> Thanks for any ideas.
> 
> Travis Graham
> #06344








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 09:26:34 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.


The "warm start" issue has come up before, but has never been 
adequately resolved, IMO.

I have been plagued with this problem for years. My car starts 
perfectly when cold and when hot, but there is a small temperature 
window (presumably in which the engine is just barely too warm to 
engage the thermo-time switch) in which it just won't start w/o forcing 
the cold-start injector via a plug swap.  My fuel system holds pressure 
very well (by direct measurement), and the problem has survived a 
complete tuneup (except setting valves) and a replacement of the 
thermo-time switch.

My best guesses are
1) there is a bad batch of thermo-time switches out there whose 
setpoint is too low.  (Been meaning to test mine)
2) I have a subtle vacuum leak (but if so, I sure can't find it)

Sure would be nice to get to the bottom of this. In my case the 
"critical cooling period" exactly coincides with a leisurely dinner at 
a nice restaurant.


On Feb 20, 2005, at 10:30 PM, Travis Graham wrote:

>
>
> I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A
> good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to
> get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
>
<snip>

> Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with no
> hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  I
> parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't start!
> It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The fuel
> pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of the
> key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve using
> the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I drove
> straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately tried
> starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once
> again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had to
> leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not hot"
> zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
>

<snip>

>
> Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance to do
> further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem is a
> bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a
> problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 years
> and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:
>

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:43:47 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Window & Blower Question


Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While sitting at a show on Friday night I pressed the accelerator pedal and the throttle cable broke right as it comes out of the tube above the pedal. I wanted to attend another show on Sunday and knew I was not going to be able to get a new cable by then so I figured I would go the bike brake cable route to get a temporary fix working. For the record, bike shops don't usually have cables that long. But fishing shops have stainless leader that is almost identical, so I had the throttle working again and head off to the Sunday show.

Now for the new problems:

On the way to the show the left window stopped working. It tries to go down but seems to be jammed at the front edge. The back goes down a hair then seems to get stuck. Any thoughts.. I have never had it apart but am guessing there is a track?

Then on the way back from the show (Now with no working front window) I had the AC on max with the fan all the way up. All of a sudden the fan went off. I went ahead and turned the fan and AC off, but after a few minutes of sweating with only one working window, I turned it back on.. Presto.. The fan is working. I left it on #2 figuring maybe it was overheating on the highest setting. It continued working on the lower setting with no problem. Is the blower breaker controlled or fused? Or do the fans have a thermal shutdown?

I want to get this stuff fixed before something else goes wrong, What are the chances that with South Floridas heat, I lose the window and AC blower on the same day?


Steve
#2700

 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:03:11 -0500
From: Joshua Schwartz <Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: VIN 020098


I rarely post to the DML, but I wanted to share with the list some news. 
On Saturday, I purchased VIN 020098. It hasn't been on the road since 
1985 and is in need of the usual repairs (BTW, it doesn't run). This is 
a one owner car, purchased locally and rarely, almost never used. The 
original selling dealer was Partyka Chevrolet in Hamden, CT (darn 
sticker was tought to remove on the rear bumper!). The body is dent 
free, the glass is perfect and the dash and binnacle aren't cracked (it 
is a grey interior). The original NCT's are still on the car, showing 
almost no wear and the rims are scuff/peel free. The frame isn't 
undercoated and the exhaust is '81 style (no tips). As far as "cave 
painting" goes; written in marker, the number "7037" as well as "V20111" 
on both doors, in the headliner area. Also, the underside of the rear 
louver still has the small square sticker affixed to it. The fit and 
finish of the car is marginal. I doubt it is from sitting and neglect. 
Rather, I suspect that the last few cars didn't receive the same 
attention to detail as others did. If I remember correctly, the fit and 
finish of my early '81 was much better, though I did drive Rob Grady and 
Pat crazy asking them to eliminate all of the rattles, squeaks and 
noises throughout the car.
Thanks for listening...
- Joshua Schwartz
Connecticut
001292
020098






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 15:57:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.



Sometimes when you fix one problem another, related problem surfaces.
The second problem was always there, it was just underlying the
bigger, origional problem. Sort of like when you take the big rocks
out of the river and then lower the level, you find more big rocks. I
am going to guess you have to replace the fuel accumulater and
possibly the control pressure regulater. A fuel pressure guage would
be useful to confirm the diagnosis without having to replace the parts
to see if I am right. A quick and "dirty" test of the fuel accumulater
is to remove the short hose coming off the end (the one with the hose
clamps) and see if fuel comes out from the acumulater when you run the
fuel pump. Plug the loose hose end, fuel will also shoot out of it,
that is normal. The fuel filter could have become plugged up with
pieces of the bladder from the fuel accumulater. Changing the fuel
filter did not cause this. Also make sure nothing is plugged into the
hot start relay plug over by the fuse block/relay area.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A 
> good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to 
> get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
> 
> First I had a lingering cold start problem - after sitting overnight, 
> my DeLorean would have very hard cold starts.  It would crank for a 
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 18:01:02 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: TOBY TAB install question for [sweitzel_2000]



David T. summed it up pretty well. I had the car on jackstands and did
the procedure laying on my back under the car. The passenger side was
easy. I did loosen the bushing bracket a little to aid in wiggling the
bolt out. The driver's side wasn't too bad once I completely unbolted
the bushing bracket from the frame. Aside from a torque wrench, The
job doesn't really *need* special tools, but using an air ratchet
helped speed along the removal of the rear carrier bolts.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 12:10:35 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Starting problems... cold, now warm.


Peter, If the hot start and the cold start are ok, have you considered the
fuel system mixture may be set to lean.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lucas [mailto:lucas_at_dml_Maya.com]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 8:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Starting problems... cold, now warm.




The "warm start" issue has come up before, but has never been
adequately resolved, IMO.

I have been plagued with this problem for years. My car starts
perfectly when cold and when hot, but there is a small temperature
window (presumably in which the engine is just barely too warm to
engage the thermo-time switch) in which it just won't start w/o forcing
the cold-start injector via a plug swap.  My fuel system holds pressure
very well (by direct measurement), and the problem has survived a
complete tuneup (except setting valves) and a replacement of the
thermo-time switch.

My best guesses are
1) there is a bad batch of thermo-time switches out there whose
setpoint is too low.  (Been meaning to test mine)
2) I have a subtle vacuum leak (but if so, I sure can't find it)

Sure would be nice to get to the bottom of this. In my case the
"critical cooling period" exactly coincides with a leisurely dinner at
a nice restaurant.


On Feb 20, 2005, at 10:30 PM, Travis Graham wrote:

>
>
> I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A
> good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to
> get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
>
<snip>

> Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with no
> hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  I
> parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't start!
> It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The fuel
> pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of the
> key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve using
> the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I drove
> straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately tried
> starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once
> again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had to
> leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not hot"
> zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
>

<snip>

>
> Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance to do
> further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem is a
> bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a
> problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 years
> and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:
>

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:15:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: New DeLorean Owner...Old engine blown...Help me make decision


Hi Brandon.  I'm in the process of doing the Eagle
swap myself.  As engine swaps go, here are some of the
pros of using the Eagle:

1. Same bolt pattern, NO ADAPTER PLATE NEEDED.  (You
will need the Delorean crank case though because the
motor mounts are different.)
2. Larger Displacement (3.0 Liters)
3. Slightly higher compression
4. Electronic Fuel Injection
5. Serpentine belt setup
6. Even-fire configuration
7. Maintains original weight distribution/handling
8. Readily available in salvage yards
9. Retains the PRV heritage of the Delorean (If that
means anything to you.)


There are a bunch of "Cons" applicable to engine swaps
as a whole.  These include cost, complexity, reduced
support network, being shunned by the purists (no,
wait, maybe that's a "pro" ; ) )etc.  About the only
Con specific to using the Eagle is that it's still not
a powerhouse with tons of aftermarket parts available.
 With any engine swap, if you go with electronic fuel
injection, one of your biggest investments will be the
Engine Control System.  You could try to use the
original factory computer, but you'll probably find it
cannot be tuned to accomodate changes in vehicle
weight, gearing, etc.  By using an aftermarket system,
all of these things can be accomodated.  I used the
Electromotive TEC3 which cost about $2,500 if I
remember correctly.  One nice thing about the
aftermarket ECM is that once installed, you've setup
the car to run virtually any EFI engine.  As I recall,
my TEC3 can run anything from 2 to 12 cylinders so if
I were to decide to swap out my Eagle engine tomorrow
for something else, say a Mazda rotary or a Lotus V8,
the same ECM would run it.  It would just need to be
recalibrated, no significant rewiring.

The Lotus would be sweet, but if you do decide to go
with the Eagle, be sure to stick with the 91/92
variant as the 88/90 is a different animal with an
older-style sensor package that will need to be
replced.

Overall though, if cost is a concern, the cheapest and
simplest solution would be to replace your engine with
a good, used Delorean engine.  That's a no-brainer. 
If you're looking for something different than you'll
need to seriously consider you capabilities because
you'll be creating a one-of-a-kind vehicle.  If you
did the conversion yourself, you'll have a decent
chance of troubleshooting it if (when) something goes
wrong.  If you have to pay someone to do the
conversion for you, you could find yourself completely
at their mercy for future repairs because no one else
will touch it.

Feel free to email me directly if you have any
questions about my conversion.

Steve
VIN 02650
www.projectdelorean.com


--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> The least expensive option would be to go with an
> origional PRV
> engine. Around $5k. It does not have to be the one
> the car was built
> with. There is no "matching numbers". The next
> higher price would be
> with DMCH's performance engine. An engine swap to
> any other kind of
> motor is going to cost at least twice as much and
> take a whole lot
> longer to do. The automatic trans will not live very
> long with any
> kind of upgraded engine, it can't take the
> horsepower. Doing an engine
> swap means a lot of custom made parts, rewiring the
> car, changing the
> weight bias and handling, and on and on. You also
> must document
> everything carefully so it can be serviced in the
> future. If you have
> the time and money go for it but if you have ANY
> doubts it is probably
> safer to stay as stock as you can. Doing an engine
> swap does not
> always make the car worth more. A lot depends on how
> it is done. If
> you do an engine swap do not count on getting all of
> your investment
> back. All of the Delorean venders sell door struts,
> you may also need
> a torsion bar adjustment.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 

<snip -- older quoted material trimmed>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:45:32 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question


Steve, sounds like A bad weekend?  As it appears the window is obviously stuck on the angeled track, it's tricky with the gullwing doors, so you will have to remove those dreaded door panels, thats why I had mine off last friday. But once they are off it is a pretty simple procedure to fix it.  As for the A/C the 3th and 4th speed operate on different wires then the 1st and the 2nd speeds.  So with not knowing anything else I have to start looking at your 4th speed circuit breaker located on the blower itself under the golvebox and the two relays(3rd,4th) behind the pax seat.  Since thats what you said when it stops working and it operates fine on the first two lower settings.
Hope this helps let me know if you need anything?
"Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net> wrote:

Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While sitting at a show on Friday night I pressed the accelerator pedal and the throttle cable broke right as it comes out of the tube above the pedal. I wanted to attend another show on Sunday and knew I was not going to be able to get a new cable by then so I figured I would go the bike brake cable route to get a temporary fix working. For the record, bike shops don't usually have cables that long. But fishing shops have stainless leader that is almost identical, so I had the throttle working again and head off to the Sunday show.

Now for the new problems:

On the way to the show the left window stopped working. It tries to go down but seems to be jammed at the front edge. The back goes down a hair then seems to get stuck. Any thoughts.. I have never had it apart but am guessing there is a track?

Then on the way back from the show (Now with no working front window) I had the AC on max with the fan all the way up. All of a sudden the fan went off. I went ahead and turned the fan and AC off, but after a few minutes of sweating with only one working window, I turned it back on.. Presto.. The fan is working. I left it on #2 figuring maybe it was overheating on the highest setting. It continued working on the lower setting with no problem. Is the blower breaker controlled or fused? Or do the fans have a thermal shutdown?

I want to get this stuff fixed before something else goes wrong, What are the chances that with South Floridas heat, I lose the window and AC blower on the same day?


Steve
#2700



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 19:06:33 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question



Steve - The A/C fan runs through a circuit breaker that is near the 
limit for continuous operation.  On positions #1 and #2, it works 
directly with power through the switch, but on #3 and #4 the fan is 
powered through relays due to the high current draw.  The best way 
to "fix" this is to get a slightly higher rated circuit breaker so 
that you have some operational margin, but without going so high in 
capacity that you compromise protection in the circuit.  I have a 40 
amp breaker installed in Winged 1 for this purpose.  I don't have the 
manual in front of me right now, but I believe that the OEM breaker 
is 25 amps.  I have no more issues with this in my car (although it 
used to happen frequently).

On your other issue with the window ... it does run on a tracks, both 
fore and aft.  You need to inspect everything to see where it "went 
wrong".  We have parts for both issues if you need them.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Then on the way back from the show (Now with no working front 
window) I had the AC on max with the fan all the way up. All of a 
sudden the fan went off. I went ahead and turned the fan and AC off, 
but after a few minutes of sweating with only one working window, I 
turned it back on.. Presto.. The fan is working. I left it on #2 
figuring maybe it was overheating on the highest setting. It 
continued working on the lower setting with no problem. Is the blower 
breaker controlled or fused? Or do the fans have a thermal shutdown?









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 19:13:09 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)



Should anybody ever have the occassion to replace the slave cylinder, 
please contact me off List about a very slick modification that 
allows for remote gravity bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.  You 
never have to touch the bleed screw again.  Just a thought for those 
who aren't blessed with extra joints in your arms.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC 
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> BTW: Should you ever need to replace the slave cylinder, this is 
best accomplished from below *IF* you can remove the exhaust 
crossover pipe (some people have trouble removing nuts on the 
manifold and converter studs). 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 11:33:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question


Hey Steve,

On the window problem it sounds like your regulator
might be starting to go.  Are they the stock ones
(which were made of plastic) or the new ones (which
are metal).  I know because mine are broken in both
doors, and the windows won't move at all anymore.  

On the AC problem, I had the exact same thing happen
to me not more than a week ago.  I was driving with
the the vents open (not AC) and had the fans on full. 
All of a sudden the fans fluctuated and turned off and
would not go back on.  As soon as I parked my car and
got out I noticed a lot of water dripping out of the
front end.  I let the car sit for about 10 minutes and
then came back and started it up.  I turned on the MAX
AC and turned the fans on full and it was working fine
again, and to this day is still working without
problems.

Hope this helps

Japheth VIN: 1223


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - Easier than ever with enhanced search. Learn more.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 19:39:38 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Alternators



Hey guys, I am curious how long the stock alternators last?  I still 
have one and my D' is one of the first 81's.  Last night I had a lot 
of trouble starting it.  I had power to everything electrical 
headlights, radio, AC, cooling fans,etc. , but the car would not 
start.  After hooking up some jumper cables the car started.  I know 
that when you have power, but the engine does not turn over, that 
the alternator is probably going.  After jumping it, it held it's 
charge and was running at 13 volts all the way home(about 17 
miles).  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I either need a new 
battery or new alternator, and if it's the latter then that will be 
really expensive.

Thanks

Japheth VIN: 1223








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 21:45:51 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Rob Grady Tech Session at Florida Concours April 30



Rob and Debbie Grady will once again be co-sponsoring and attending 
the annual Exotic Car Festival at Celebration, Florida, the weekend 
of May 30-April 1. 

Rob will be giving a FREE tech session for all DeLoreans owners 
registered for the event, and will also be judging the cars for the 
concours. 

Last year we had 14 DeLoreans at the show, I just posted a photo. 
This year we hope to double that number! This is a great event in a 
gorgeous setting, and all proceeds are donated to Make-A-Wish. 

The concours is held along the watertfront boardwalk in Disney's town 
of Celebration, Florida, adjacent to Walt Disney World. In addition 
to the Saturday April 30 concours of 140+ exotic cars, there will be 
a black tie (optional) awards banquet that evening, and a fun 
competitive rally the next day.

Registration and information can be found at 
www.celebrationexoticcars.com

(Please note the site will be down sometime this week for a 12-24 
hour period for updates)

Bring out your D for one of the best events of the year, April 30-May 
1.

See you there!
Jeff
#20022










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 21:58:44 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Interior color



There were only two interior colors, black and grey. The black 
interior cars had dark grey headliners and carpets versus the grey 
interiors lighter grey headliners and carpets. There was a variation 
in some '82 and '83 cars that put the light grey carpet and 
headliners in the black leather cars though. I really like this look 
personally. 

That accounts for the misconception of light and dark grey interiors 
most of the time. Though if you've seen a good amount of DeLoreans 
in person, no two grey interior cars seem to have identically 
colored interiors. Most of this can be accounted for by sun damage 
and staining from 25 years of dirt. However I remember one vendor 
saying that he took the backs off the seats (which wouldn't have 
been exposed to dirt or sun because of their location in the car) of 
four grey interior cars and compared them. He claimed each car was 
differently colored. So that's a complex answer to your simple 
question LOL.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Have there been two variants on the DeLorean's grey interior, 
> meaning "Dark Grey" and "Light Grey?" I always thought there was 
> just black and grey, minus the very rare, coveted beige of the 
gold 
> DMC's. Mine is grey except for the top of the dash which is all 
> cracked and blackened from the previous owner living in CA.
> -John








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------