From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2487
Date: Monday, February 21, 2005 11:32 PM

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Re: Clutch Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

3. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

4. Re: Alternators
From: "Patrick C." <>

5. Re: Alternators
From: "stainlessilusion" <>

6. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

7. Millennium Concours tip of the day (glovebox)
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <>

8. cut spring pics posted, have questions
From: kc <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:34:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question

The window came off the track. You can put it back but it will happen
again. Rob Grady has a big rivet you can get and he will explain his
repair procedure to prevent it from coming off the track again. The
fan stopped because you need to change the circuit breakers. There are
2, one for the ventilating fan and 1 for the cooling (radiator) fans.
Get both. In fact just get the relay upgrade kit, it includes these
breakers. I would also replace the throttle cable with the correct
cable and lubricate it as per the recall (yes, even in Florida).While
you are on the phone to your favorite Delorean vendor make sure you
have all of the recalls and get an extra oil filter. Sometimes it will
seem like you will never get ahead of the problems with a car. Keep
fixing them as they come up and eventually they will stop popping up.
I like to be proactive, go after all of the known problem areas and do
them BEFORE they cause you trouble. Jack up the car and do a THOURGH
inspection of everything underneath. Repair or replace anything that
looks suspicious like boots, seals, hoses, etc. Now look in all the
hidden areas like the battery, fuse/relay area, under the dash. Look
for electrical tape, non-origional wiring, etc. If it has been a long
time (maybe never?) replace all the cooling hoses and tune the car up.
Grease the front end, don't forget the angle drive and check the ALL
the fluid levels. Check the air in the tires, replace the wiper blades
and replace the washer fluid with fresh stuff. If you only fix what
breaks you are asking for the next thing to break and then you will
only be disappointed when the car lets you down again and again. If
the brake and clutch fluid is over 2 years old (or you don't know and
it looks dark) flush it out and replace it with fresh DOT 4 Castrol
GTLMA. When I first got my car everything worked but it had very low
miles on it, the P.O. hardly ever used it. Once I started using it, it
seemed every time I took the car out for a ride something else went
wrong with it. On several occasions I got stuck with it and it got to
the point no one would ride with me. It is MUCH better now!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While
sitting at a show on Friday night I pressed the accelerator pedal and
the throttle cable broke right as it comes out of the tube above the
pedal. I wanted to attend another show on Sunday and knew I was not
going to be able to get a new cable by then so I figured I would go
the bike brake cable route to get a temporary fix working. For the
record, bike shops don't usually have cables that long. But fishing
shops have stainless leader that is almost identical, so I had the
throttle working again and head off to the Sunday show.
> Now for the new problems:
> On the way to the show the left window stopped working. It tries to
go down but seems to be jammed at the front edge. The back goes down a ha


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:46:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem

Because of the difficulty involved with getting to the clutch slave
cylinder it is recommended it be replaced whenever replacing the
master cylinder. Not only is it difficult to replace the slave
cylinder, it is also difficult to bleed it properly. Bill R's
procedure is about the best it gets. Unless you are taking off the
intake manifold it is done from underneath (or on top as per Bill R).
This is EXACTLY why when you are working on one thing you do another
just because it is so easy to do. Doing the slave cylinder is usually
a very simple job but on a Delorean, because of it's location, it is
difficult. I would also recomend going to the braided metal line so
you won't have to go in this area again. At least not for 2 years. You
should change the clutch fluid every 2 years so you don't have to
replace the cylinder. A real good invention would be a remote bleeder
for the clutch slave cylinder. It wouldn't take much, just a fitting
in place of the bleeder screw, a piece of tubing to a remote fitting
with a plate on it to mount it, and a bleeder screw. This would make
bleeding the clutch much simpler. Maybe one of the vendors will take
this idea up?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, jimbo0946_at_dml_a... wrote:
> DMLer's
> I went to take my D out for a nice little drive and as soon as I sat
down and felt the pedals, I knew something was wrong.  The clutch felt
extremely loose.  I still have the original stiff clutch.  When I
press on the pedal it feels like a normal loose clutch, found in
today's cars, for about 75% of the way.  The remaining quarter of the
way, it feels like it should.  It won't go into gear all the time, but
will sometimes.  
> Could this just be the cable?  Any and all ideas welcome.
> Jim


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:39:58 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.

Does your fuel pump go into a "prime" run when you first turn on the 
key? It should. You might also want to check out the RPM relay and 
its connections. I agree you problem sounds like fuel if the cold 
start plug swap thing starts it.

I had a similar issue a few years ago and, of all things, it turned 
out to be the spark amplifier relay that turns on with the starter - 
it is mounted on the engine compartment firewall under the resistor 
and feeds an increased voltage to the coil at start. I haven't seen 
the relay in any circuits on any wiring diagrams either. They all 
show a direct feed. The relay and connections are subject to a lot 
more stress in the engine bay so a nice new weather-tight relay with 
connection grease solved my problems.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_M...> wrote:
> The "warm start" issue has come up before, but has never been 
> adequately resolved, IMO.
> I have been plagued with this problem for years. My car starts 
> perfectly when cold and when hot, but there is a small temperature 
> window (presumably in which the engine is just barely too warm to 
> engage the thermo-time switch) in which it just won't start w/o 
> the cold-start injector via a plug swap.  My fuel system holds 
> very well (by direct measurement), and the problem has survived a 
> complete tuneup (except setting valves) and a replacement of the 
> thermo-time switch.
> My best guesses are
> 1) there is a bad batch of thermo-time switches out there whose 
> setpoint is too low.  (Been meaning to test mine)
> 2) I have a subtle vacuum leak (but if so, I sure can't find it)
> Sure would be nice to get to the bottom of this. In my case the 
> "critical cooling period" exactly coincides with a leisurely 
dinner at 
> a nice restaurant.
> On Feb 20, 2005, at 10:30 PM, Travis Graham wrote:
> >
> >
> > I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start 
problem!  A
> > good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I 
want to
> > get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
> >
> <snip>
> > Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with 
> > hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good 
drive.  I
> > parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't 
> > It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The 
> > pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of 
> > key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve 
> > the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  
I drove
> > straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately 
> > starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it 
> > again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I 
had to
> > leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not 
> > zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
> >
> <snip>
> >
> > Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a 
chance to do
> > further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely 
problem is a
> > bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a
> > problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 
> > and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the 
> >
> --Pete Lucas
>    VIN #06703


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:47:58 -0000
From: "Patrick C." <>
Subject: Re: Alternators

Getting rid of the Ducellier alternator was one of the best things I
did for my car.  Not only is it an unreliable alternator, its amperage
is just too low (80 amps I believe, most likely 60 after years of
corrosion and use).  I replaced it with Hervey's D140 Alternator and
the difference is unbelieveable.  Now I don't have to worry about
running headlights, radio, A/C, windshield wipers, brakes, and turn
signals at the same time.  They all work great.  Definitely replace
the Ducy before it fails on you on a longer trip.


--- In, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey guys, I am curious how long the stock alternators last?  I still 
> have one and my D' is one of the first 81's.  Last night I had a lot 
> of trouble starting it.  I had power to everything electrical 
> headlights, radio, AC, cooling fans,etc. , but the car would not 
> start.  After hooking up some jumper cables the car started.  I know 
> that when you have power, but the engine does not turn over, that 
> the alternator is probably going.  After jumping it, it held it's 
> charge and was running at 13 volts all the way home(about 17 
> miles).  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I either need a new 
> battery or new alternator, and if it's the latter then that will be 
> really expensive.
> Thanks
> Japheth VIN: 1223


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:51:05 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <>
Subject: Re: Alternators

My alternator was original from 81, and after all the years it finally
started to die about a year and a half ago. With my headlights and
heater fan on during driving, I would have poor acceleration until I
shut something off, that's how I knew mine was going bad. I could be
going up a hill with everything on and have poor performance; when I
shut something off (fan or lights), then the performance jumped right
back into normal performance, actually made the car shake when it came
back to normal from being bad. Anyway, it could be your alternator, or
just a bad contact on the main wires to the starter, grounds etc check
those out. Replacing the original alternator is something you should
look into; because if it hasn't gone bad yet, it is likely it soon
will.  -----Dani B. #5003


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 02:03:34 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question

You are experiencing some typical DeLorean issues. If the window 
motors are original on vin 2700 then you are over due for the new 
stuff. The OEMs had a flexible plastic tube in the mechanicals that 
will break. Plus, the windows were never really aligned properly at 
the factory and that didn't help. The new replacement motors are 
great. I think the new motors are very tedious to install because 
you need to pay close attention to all the window adjustments - but 
worth the effort.

The blower motor - speeds 3 and 4 are on the same circuit breaker. 
Speeds 1 and 2 are fused with the compressor. The OEM CB is a piece 
of junk. The OEM blade connections are pressed fit and over time 
work loose creating too much heat and therefore overheat the CB. You 
need a good HD 20amp. Any of the vendors have the correct CB with 

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While s
> I want to get this stuff fixed before something else goes wrong, 
What are the chances that with South Floridas heat, I lose the 
window and AC blower on the same day?
> Steve
> #2700
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 18:16:57 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <>
Subject: Millennium Concours tip of the day (glovebox)

It's been a little while since my last tip of the day, so I thought I'd
share another one with you. Incidentally, all of the tips that I post
are items that resulted in deductions in multiple cases that I'm
familiar with first-hand.

Before the judging starts make sure you remove your registration and
proof of insurance documents from the glovebox. Since most folks keep
these documents in their car for obvious reasons, it can be easy to
forget that they're probably in your glovebox. There should no nothing
in the glovebox, although the owner's manual is permissible (but not



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 18:31:50 -0800 (PST)
From: kc <>
Subject: cut spring pics posted, have questions

Hey all-
I finally removed ye old cut springs from my car.

These springs are original (to the best of my
knowledge and the first owner).  The FO told me that
Crest Chevrolet, the dealer he ordered/bought from,
lowered every car before delivery. Presumably, using
the cut and swap method. Certainly, two of them were
cut, and I'm pretty use the rear was lower than stock.

Anyway, I finally got the last piece in (gave up to
save my fingers and paid nearby DMCH to do the front
springs). I should have compared them to originals
while I was there but didn't think about that.

the springs pulled from the rear have red paint
splashed across them and the front have yellow. Does
this coincide with factory markings-- or are these
Crest Chevy markings? Can someone look at the pictures
and tell me definitively anything about them?

Also-- anyone interested in buying them? It would be
an affordable way to lower a car if you are not as
concerned about performance driving and want to save
you original height springs for reversal. Or just
experiment to see if you like it lowered. They worked
well enough for me, though the front are even a little
lower than the Eibach springs are now (they may settle
in to be about the same, though I expect a little


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