From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2488
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 1:26 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: cut spring pics posted, have questions
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Re: Window & Blower Question
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

4. Fuel Accumulator
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Re: Window & Blower Question
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

6. Re: Alternators
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Alternators
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. Re: Window & Blower Question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: Clutch Problem
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken
From: "phildadme" <philwiltfong_at_dml_cox.net>

11. RE: Re: Interior color
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Alternators
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

13. RE: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Re: Interior color
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>

15. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

16. RE: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. RE: Fuel Accumulator
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Head lite switch blub.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Head lite switch blub.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

23. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. red paint lower control arm
From: "heylacy" <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Alternators
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 03:23:11 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: cut spring pics posted, have questions



I too have cut springs, there was red and yellow paint on mine too so
it is factory DMC markings. I have some pictures comparing a cut
spring to a stock spring if anyone wants to see-email off list. Mines
been like this for a while, and I have no complaints. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 04:03:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)



Are you talking about attaching a line to the bleeder port and running
it to a valve somewhere near the bottom of the transmission?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> 
> Should anybody ever have the occassion to replace the slave cylinder, 
> please contact me off List about a very slick modification that 
> allows for remote gravity bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.  You 
> never have to touch the bleed screw again.  Just a thought for those 
> who aren't blessed with extra joints in your arms.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC 
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 









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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:57:24 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Window & Blower Question


Thanks everybody.. I am guessing it is the track because it want's to go 
down but looks stuck. Ken had changed out the regulators and virtually 
everyother part imaginable. As for the blower, I will have to check and see 
what circuit breaker it has in it. I know the car had the fanzilla upgrade 
but I don't know about the blower motor. The throttle cable was done 
properly (even had antifreeze leak out when I removed the old one) the break 
was about 1/2 inch from the ball end that sits in the clip attached to the 
pedal. Looks like regular wear & tear. Thanks for all the help.. I already 
have started using oil filters from the six pack I ordered when I first got 
the car.

Gotta check with Rob about the rivet thing..


Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 5:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Window & Blower Question


>
>
>
> The window came off the track. You can put it back but it will happen
> again. Rob Grady has a big rivet you can get and he will explain his
> repair procedure to prevent it from coming off the track again. The
> fan stopped because you need to change the circuit breakers. There are
> 2, one for the ventilating fan and 1 for the cooling (radiator) fans.
> Get both. In fact just get the relay upgrade kit, it includes these
> breakers. I would also replace the throttle cable with the correct
> cable and lubricate it as per the recall (yes, even in Florida).While
> you are on the phone to your favorite Delorean vendor make sure you
> have all of the recalls and get an extra oil filter. Sometimes it will
> seem like you will never get ahead of the problems with a car. Keep
> fixing them as they come up and eventually they will stop popping up.
> I like to be proactive, go after all of the known problem areas and do
> them BEFORE they cause you trouble. Jack up the car and do a THOURGH
> inspection of everything underneath. Repair or replace anything that
> looks suspicious like boots, seals, hoses, etc. Now look in all the
> hidden areas like the battery, fuse/relay area, under the dash. Look
> for electrical tape, non-origional wiring, etc. If it has been a long
> time (maybe never?) replace all the cooling hoses and tune the car up.
> Grease the front end, don't forget the angle drive and check the ALL
> the fluid levels. Check the air in the tires, replace the wiper blades
> and replace the washer fluid with fresh stuff. If you only fix what
> breaks you are asking for the next thing to break and then you will
> only be disappointed when the car lets you down again and again. If
> the brake and clutch fluid is over 2 years old (or you don't know and
> it looks dark) flush it out and replace it with fresh DOT 4 Castrol
> GTLMA. When I first got my car everything worked but it had very low
> miles on it, the P.O. hardly ever used it. Once I started using it, it
> seemed every time I took the car out for a ride something else went
> wrong with it. On several occasions I got stuck with it and it got to
> the point no one would ride with me. It is MUCH better now!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>>
>> Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While
> sitting at a show on Friday night I pressed the accelerator pedal and
> the throttle cable broke right as it comes out of the tube above the
> pedal. I wanted to attend another show on Sunday and knew I was not
> going to be able to get a new cable by then so I figured I would go
> the bike brake cable route to get a temporary fix working. For the
> record, bike shops don't usually have cables that long. But fishing
> shops have stainless leader that is almost identical, so I had the
> throttle working again and head off to the Sunday show.
>>
>> Now for the new problems:
>>
>> On the way to the show the left window stopped working. It tries to
> go down but seems to be jammed at the front edge. The back goes down a ha
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 03:58:59 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Accumulator



Can the fuel accumulator make noise?  I just replaced the fuel pump 
because it failed but now I am having similar symptoms again.  I 
pulled the pump and ran it out of the tank but the noise seems to be 
coming from the transmission tunnel area.  the pump seemed fine.  
The car emits a high pitched groan that seems to strain to pull 
fuel.  It just started out of nowhere.  I didn't think the 
accumulator had any moving parts. so where could the noise be coming 
from?  The car also sputters and stalls like it is out of gas unless 
I keep the revs really high.(thats how i limped home)

Matt








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:58:38 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Window & Blower Question


It has new window motors too... Thanks though..


Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 9:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Window & Blower Question


>
>
>
> You are experiencing some typical DeLorean issues. If the window
> motors are original on vin 2700 then you are over due for the new
> stuff. The OEMs had a flexible plastic tube in the mechanicals that
> will break. Plus, the windows were never really aligned properly at
> the factory and that didn't help. The new replacement motors are
> great. I think the new motors are very tedious to install because
> you need to pay close attention to all the window adjustments - but
> worth the effort.
>
> The blower motor - speeds 3 and 4 are on the same circuit breaker.
> Speeds 1 and 2 are fused with the compressor. The OEM CB is a piece
> of junk. The OEM blade connections are pressed fit and over time
> work loose creating too much heat and therefore overheat the CB. You
> need a good HD 20amp. Any of the vendors have the correct CB with
> connections.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
>>
>> Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While s
>>
>> I want to get this stuff fixed before something else goes wrong,
> What are the chances that with South Floridas heat, I lose the
> window and AC blower on the same day?
>>
>>
>> Steve
>> #2700
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 04:25:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Alternators



The alternator has absolutely no bearing on starting an engine -- only
the battery, starter motor, and wiring between them (and of course
spark and fuel mixture). In fact a car will run just fine with no
alternator whatsoever, sometimes for hundreds of miles. In the
backwards world of DC polarity the battery actually comes after the
alternator -- it powers the vehicle, and the alternator recharges it. 

If your engine was turning normally but not catching, I'd suspect
ignition first then fuel mixture. If the engine wasn't turning at all,
I'd suspect:
- No noise from the starter motor: solenoid or wiring
- Single click from the starter motor: battery 

BTW: I'm running a 70 amp Volvo ap Motorola no problem. Of course I
have thrown away all onboard electronics except ignition and the radio...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I am curious how long the stock alternators last?  I still 
> have one and my D' is one of the first 81's.  Last night I had a lot 
> of trouble starting it.  I had power to everything electrical 
> headlights, radio, AC, cooling fans,etc. , but the car would not 
> start.  After hooking up some jumper cables the car started.  I know 
> that when you have power, but the engine does not turn over, that 
> the alternator is probably going.  After jumping it, it held it's 
> charge and was running at 13 volts all the way home(about 17 
> miles).  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I either need a new 
> battery or new alternator, and if it's the latter then that will be 
> really expensive.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Japheth VIN: 1223








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 23:09:02 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Alternators


Japheth,

What makes you think it's the alternator?  If the thing is showing 13 volts, 
it sounds fine to me.  If the engine won't crank but you have power, it's 
more likely your starter!  However, if you have the Ducy still on there, you 
should ditch it anyway.  You're on borrowed time.  Otherwise, it sounds to 
me like another issue.

Clean your battery terminals and all the main grounds.  Then make sure the 
wiring to the starter is clean and tight.  Now that you've done that, you 
can get to the most likely source of your problem:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

In addition to Ryan's article, see the bulletin the service manual for more 
details.  Judging by your VIN and symptoms, this should fix you right up.

Jake Kamphoefner
001063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 1:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Alternators


>
> Hey guys, I am curious how long the stock alternators last?  I still
> have one and my D' is one of the first 81's.  Last night I had a lot
> of trouble starting it.  I had power to everything electrical
> headlights, radio, AC, cooling fans,etc. , but the car would not
> start.  After hooking up some jumper cables the car started.  I know
> that when you have power, but the engine does not turn over, that
> the alternator is probably going.  After jumping it, it held it's
> charge and was running at 13 volts all the way home(about 17
> miles).  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I either need a new
> battery or new alternator, and if it's the latter then that will be
> really expensive.
>
> Thanks
>
> Japheth VIN: 1223
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 05:35:46 -0000
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Window & Blower Question



Harold,

I completely agree with your assessment of deficiencies of the 
original window motors and blower motor circuit protectors. I defense 
of the factory staff at Dunmury I don't agree with the statement that 
the windows were not properly aligned at the factory.

>From my experience window movement alignment on all of the cars was 
excellent. Virtually all window problems were a result of, as you 
mentioned, premature failure of the plastic tube attachment point on 
the factory installed window motors. 

DMC Joe


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> You are experiencing some typical DeLorean issues. If the window 
> motors are original on vin 2700 then you are over due for the new 
> stuff. The OEMs had a flexible plastic tube in the mechanicals that 
> will break. Plus, the windows were never really aligned properly at 
> the factory and that didn't help. The new replacement motors are 
> great. I think the new motors are very tedious to install because 
> you need to pay close attention to all the window adjustments - but 
> worth the effort.
> 
> The blower motor - speeds 3 and 4 are on the same circuit breaker. 
> Speeds 1 and 2 are fused with the compressor. The OEM CB is a piece 
> of junk. The OEM blade connections are pressed fit and over time 
> work loose creating too much heat and therefore overheat the CB. 
You 
> need a good HD 20amp. Any of the vendors have the correct CB with 
> connections.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > Seems like when things start going, it happens all at once. While 
s
> > 
> > I want to get this stuff fixed before something else goes wrong, 
> What are the chances that with South Floridas heat, I lose the 
> window and AC blower on the same day?
> > 
> > 
> > Steve
> > #2700
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 06:00:15 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem



David - Please see message number 49661.  I have my modification on 
three or four local cars, including Winged1, and the owners simply 
love it.  I will take the action to develop a kit that can be 
installed by the typical DeLorean owner (whoever he or she is).  It 
makes clutch fluid flushing and air bleeding a minimal effort no-
brainer.  Stay tuned!

BTW - Winged1 got this mod in August 2000 for those of you who are 
keeping score.  I was a civilian then (as opposed to a vendor).

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
 A real good invention would be a remote bleeder for the clutch 
slave cylinder. It wouldn't take much, just a fitting in place of 
the bleeder screw, a piece of tubing to a remote fitting with a 
plate on it to mount it, and a bleeder screw. This would make 
bleeding the clutch much simpler. Maybe one of the vendors will take 
this idea up?
> David Teitelbaum









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 06:13:24 -0000
From: "phildadme" <philwiltfong_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken



My low-miles D started just fine, as always, then all of a sudden 
began to shake with a really rough idle.  I shut it off and then it 
wouldn't start again.  So I looked around and found that the double-
spade terminal on the right end of the ballast resistor had broken 
and one wire was therefore disconnected.  I replaced it and plugged 
in both wires but now I can't get my D to start at all.  Could it 
have blown something?  Don't know how the ballast resistor works 
with the coil so don't know what to check first.  Sure appreciate 
any help to know more.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 10:00:42 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Interior color


Tan leather was also offered (well, ok, on one gold car..;-)

>
>
>There were only two interior colors, black and grey. The black
>interior cars had dark grey headliners and carpets versus the grey
>interiors lighter grey headliners and carpets. There was a variation
>in some '82 and '83 cars that put the light grey carpet and
>headliners in the black leather cars though. I really like this look
>personally.
>
>That accounts for the misconception of light and dark grey interiors
>most of the time. Though if you've seen a good amount of DeLoreans
>in person, no two grey interior cars seem to have identically
>colored interiors. Most of this can be accounted for by sun damage
>and staining from 25 years of dirt. However I remember one vendor
>saying that he took the backs off the seats (which wouldn't have
>been exposed to dirt or sun because of their location in the car) of
>four grey interior cars and compared them. He claimed each car was
>differently colored. So that's a complex answer to your simple
>question LOL.
>
>Louie Golden
>VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...>
>wrote:
> > Have there been two variants on the DeLorean's grey interior,
> > meaning "Dark Grey" and "Light Grey?" I always thought there was
> > just black and grey, minus the very rare, coveted beige of the
>gold
> > DMC's. Mine is grey except for the top of the dash which is all
> > cracked and blackened from the previous owner living in CA.
> > -John





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 08:28:18 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Alternators


Japheth,
I had this exact same problem. The battery would be undercharged causing 
starting problems even though it and the alternator were new. In my case, 
it was from the main battery ground being rusted and dirty. This creates a 
lot of resistance, which robs current to the starter. Jumping the car works 
because the battery that's used for the jump is grounded through the jumper 
cables. The volt meter on the dash would still read fine because you're 
getting full voltage from the alternator after startup.

It's very easy to test for this condition. Simply disconnect the negative 
cable from the battery and attach it to a multi meter. Now using the other 
meter lead, check the resistance using some ground points in the car. In a 
perfect world, you would have 0 Ohms of resistance, but 1 or 2 is fine. Any 
more and you should consider cleaning the ground. In my case, I had over 40 
Ohms!

A quick band-aid I used (as a temporary fix ONLY until the ground was 
cleaned), was to attach a single jumper cable to the negative battery 
terminal. Then I would attach the other end to the mounting bolt for the 
passenger side seat belt. This allowed the battery to be fully charged and 
lowered the resistance.

One word of caution when cleaning this main grounding point! There is a 
lock nut as well as a welded nut on the frame. Make sure to loosen this 
lock nut first before trying to remove the bolt. You will have a very bad 
day if the bolt breaks.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 07:39 PM 2/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey guys, I am curious how long the stock alternators last?  I still
>have one and my D' is one of the first 81's.  Last night I had a lot
>of trouble starting it.  I had power to everything electrical
>headlights, radio, AC, cooling fans,etc. , but the car would not
>start.  After hooking up some jumper cables the car started.  I know
>that when you have power, but the engine does not turn over, that
>the alternator is probably going.  After jumping it, it held it's
>charge and was running at 13 volts all the way home(about 17
>miles).  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  I either need a new
>battery or new alternator, and if it's the latter then that will be
>really expensive.
>
>Thanks
>
>Japheth VIN: 1223






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 10:40:02 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken


One more thing. You should have about 9 to 10 volts on the blue/yellow wire
when starting. right side.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: phildadme [mailto:philwiltfong_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 12:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken





My low-miles D started just fine, as always, then all of a sudden
began to shake with a really rough idle.  I shut it off and then it
wouldn't start again.  So I looked around and found that the double-
spade terminal on the right end of the ballast resistor had broken
and one wire was therefore disconnected.  I replaced it and plugged
in both wires but now I can't get my D to start at all.  Could it
have blown something?  Don't know how the ballast resistor works
with the coil so don't know what to check first.  Sure appreciate
any help to know more.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:19:49 +0100
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
Subject: Re: Re: Interior color


I have seen a DMC with red toned carpet and black interior.?
Anyone else seen this ?

Johan
5425
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Interior color


>
>
> Tan leather was also offered (well, ok, on one gold car..;-)
>
>>
>>
>>There were only two interior colors, black and grey. The black
>>interior cars had dark grey headliners and carpets versus the grey
>>interiors lighter grey headliners and carpets. There was a variation
>>in some '82 and '83 cars that put the light grey carpet and
>>headliners in the black leather cars though. I really like this look
>>personally.
>>
>>That accounts for the misconception of light and dark grey interiors
>>most of the time. Though if you've seen a good amount of DeLoreans
>>in person, no two grey interior cars seem to have identically
>>colored interiors. Most of this can be accounted for by sun damage
>>and staining from 25 years of dirt. However I remember one vendor
>>saying that he took the backs off the seats (which wouldn't have
>>been exposed to dirt or sun because of their location in the car) of
>>four grey interior cars and compared them. He claimed each car was
>>differently colored. So that's a complex answer to your simple
>>question LOL.
>>
>>Louie Golden
>>VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...>
>>wrote:
>> > Have there been two variants on the DeLorean's grey interior,
>> > meaning "Dark Grey" and "Light Grey?" I always thought there was
>> > just black and grey, minus the very rare, coveted beige of the
>>gold
>> > DMC's. Mine is grey except for the top of the dash which is all
>> > cracked and blackened from the previous owner living in CA.
>> > -John
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 16:37:29 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator



Could be a bent hose or clogged fuel filter or line. Since the fuel 
filter is near the tranny try looking around there. Heck for the low 
price of a filter if you havent replaced it in a bit do it.
SM








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 10:38:57 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken


Here is an image that shows how the original resistor hooks up. But, when
your starting the car the blue/yellow wire on the left side is what I call
the starting wire. The voltage comes from the starter solenoid and cuts out
1/2 the resistor to add a little more power to the coil for starting. Then
after it starts the upper right side white wire carries the voltage thru the
resistor to the coil. You should measure appx 1 ohm from the top right to
the bottom right.
John Hervey

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/resistor-original.jpg

 the -----Original Message-----
From: phildadme [mailto:philwiltfong_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 12:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken





My low-miles D started just fine, as always, then all of a sudden
began to shake with a really rough idle.  I shut it off and then it
wouldn't start again.  So I looked around and found that the double-
spade terminal on the right end of the ballast resistor had broken
and one wire was therefore disconnected.  I replaced it and plugged
in both wires but now I can't get my D to start at all.  Could it
have blown something?  Don't know how the ballast resistor works
with the coil so don't know what to check first.  Sure appreciate
any help to know more.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 16:44:52 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator



Last year I put a new pump in my car. Where did you buy yours? I got
mine from specialTauto, I got mine with the the check valve and
filter. BUT when I installed it, it didn't work and the car failed to
run good. Took me a while to figure it out-comparing the old and new
check valves-the old one had 4 outlet holes where the banjo fitting
goes over-the new one lacked these for some reason, so I drilled my
own holes and it worked fine. Make sure yours has these holes. My car
would run,  but poorly and wouldn't rev over 3K. Otherwise-there is a
few other possiblities, you may have collapsed hose in the tank, the
end of the hose with the filter may not be down in the retainer
enough, or the hose may be cut from the clamp on the pump... A hi
pitched sound is usually the pump not getting enough fuel and when
you're in the car it sounds from the transmission tunnel area. I
wouldn't run the car like this as you don't want to overheat the pump
and destroy it. Pull the pump out of the tank while the car is
running-it will still get fuel and you can see what the problem is
like this. Hope this helps-----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Can the fuel accumulator make noise?  I just replaced the fuel pump 
> because it failed but now I am having similar symptoms again.  I 
> pulled the pump and ran it out of the tank but the noise seems to be 
> coming from the transmission tunnel area.  the pump seemed fine.  
> The car emits a high pitched groan that seems to strain to pull 
> fuel.  It just started out of nowhere.  I didn't think the 
> accumulator had any moving parts. so where could the noise be coming 
> from?  The car also sputters and stalls like it is out of gas unless 
> I keep the revs really high.(thats how i limped home)
> 
> Matt








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 10:46:59 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Accumulator


Matt, If there is a crimp in the return line somewhere that will create a
higher pressure back from it and the car will have trouble running. The
accumulator does have a moving diaphragm, but not enough to normally make a
noise. I would look for return blockage or something like that.
Call if I can help
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
972-564-9321




-----Original Message-----
From: denverdelorean [mailto:denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 9:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel Accumulator





Can the fuel accumulator make noise?  I just replaced the fuel pump
because it failed but now I am having similar symptoms again.  I
pulled the pump and ran it out of the tank but the noise seems to be
coming from the transmission tunnel area.  the pump seemed fine.
The car emits a high pitched groan that seems to strain to pull
fuel.  It just started out of nowhere.  I didn't think the
accumulator had any moving parts. so where could the noise be coming
from?  The car also sputters and stalls like it is out of gas unless
I keep the revs really high.(thats how i limped home)

Matt








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:00:26 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Head lite switch blub.



Group, 
About a month ago the headlight switch and hazard light switch bulb 
came up as to where to find it. I thought I had it on the site and 
found out I didn't. It's now there. They are $1.00 ea and I now have 
them in stock.
John Hervey

 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:55:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Head lite switch blub.



Do you have any red bulbs, or at least filters? I'm like a Hazard 
Switch that lights up the correct colour.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Group, 
> About a month ago the headlight switch and hazard light switch bulb 
> came up as to where to find it. I thought I had it on the site and 
> found out I didn't. It's now there. They are $1.00 ea and I now 
have 
> them in stock.
> John Hervey








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 17:55:47 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator



I did pull the pump out and it ran with no noise.  The sound still 
emitted from the tranny tunnel area.  I think it has to be something 
around the accumulator.  The hoses cant collapse because I put  
stainless steel springs in each one to prevent that.  I got the pump 
from DMCH so I am pretty sure it has the right number of holes.  It 
looked the same when I switched em.  

Side note...   The car ran perfectly this morning with no sound but 
the gentle buzz from the spinning pump and the engine purr.  It must 
be only after the car has run for a while.  And I mean longer that 
20 minutes. or even a couple of hours.

  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Last year I put a new pump in my car. Where did you buy yours? I 
got
> mine from specialTauto, I got mine with the the check valve and
> filter. BUT when I installed it, it didn't work and the car failed 
to
> run good. Took me a while to figure it out-comparing the old and 
new
> check valves-the old one had 4 outlet holes where the banjo fitting
> goes over-the new one lacked these for some reason, so I drilled my
> own holes and it worked fine. Make sure yours has these holes. My 
car
> would run,  but poorly and wouldn't rev over 3K. Otherwise-there 
is a
> few other possiblities, you may have collapsed hose in the tank, 
the
> end of the hose with the filter may not be down in the retainer
> enough, or the hose may be cut from the clamp on the pump... A hi
> pitched sound is usually the pump not getting enough fuel and when
> you're in the car it sounds from the transmission tunnel area. I
> wouldn't run the car like this as you don't want to overheat the 
pump
> and destroy it. Pull the pump out of the tank while the car is
> running-it will still get fuel and you can see what the problem is
> like this. Hope this helps-----Dani B. #5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "denverdelorean" 
<denverdelorean_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Can the fuel accumulator make noise?  I just replaced the fuel 
pump 
> > because it failed but now I am having similar symptoms again.  I 
> > pulled the pump and ran it out of the tank but the noise seems 
to be 
> > coming from the transmission tunnel area.  the pump seemed 
fine.  
> > The car emits a high pitched groan that seems to strain to pull 
> > fuel.  It just started out of nowhere.  I didn't think the 
> > accumulator had any moving parts. so where could the noise be 
coming 
> > from?  The car also sputters and stalls like it is out of gas 
unless 
> > I keep the revs really high.(thats how i limped home)
> > 
> > Matt








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 18:04:53 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Won't start after ballast resistor wire broken



Hello.

It sounds like defective ignition wiring, or a defective ignition 
coil to me.  Either way, it will be cheap to fix, once you figure it 
out.  If it were my car, I'd be checking the wiring for resistance, 
end to end, and buying a cheapo generic ignition coil, just for 
testing.  Good luck.

Rick.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "phildadme" <philwiltfong_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> My low-miles D started just fine, as always, then all of a sudden 
> began to shake with a really rough idle.  I shut it off and then it 
> wouldn't start again.  So I looked around and found that the double-
> spade terminal on the right end of the ballast resistor had broken 
> and one wire was therefore disconnected.  I replaced it and plugged 
> in both wires but now I can't get my D to start at all.  Could it 
> have blown something?  Don't know how the ballast resistor works 
> with the coil so don't know what to check first.  Sure appreciate 
> any help to know more.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 18:03:59 -0000
From: "denverdelorean" <denverdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator



I did notice the spare wheel well access panel was causing the 
return line to be bent over a bit.  I didn't think anything of it 
but I left the access panel unscrewed and drove to work this morning 
with a perfectly running DeLorean.  I hope thats it!!


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Matt, If there is a crimp in the return line somewhere that will 
create a
> higher pressure back from it and the car will have trouble 
running. The
> accumulator does have a moving diaphragm, but not enough to 
normally make a
> noise. I would look for return blockage or something like that.
> Call if I can help
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 972-564-9321
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: denverdelorean [mailto:denverdelorean_at_dml_y...]
> Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 9:59 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Fuel Accumulator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can the fuel accumulator make noise?  I just replaced the fuel pump
> because it failed but now I am having similar symptoms again.  I
> pulled the pump and ran it out of the tank but the noise seems to 
be
> coming from the transmission tunnel area.  the pump seemed fine.
> The car emits a high pitched groan that seems to strain to pull
> fuel.  It just started out of nowhere.  I didn't think the
> accumulator had any moving parts. so where could the noise be 
coming
> from?  The car also sputters and stalls like it is out of gas 
unless
> I keep the revs really high.(thats how i limped home)
> 
> Matt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 18:32:44 -0000
From: "heylacy" <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: red paint lower control arm



Hi, Does a dab of red paint on the lower control arm ball joint and 
spring mean anything like update performed? I'ts an 81. Thanks








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 19:06:38 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Alternators



Hey everybody,

I got the problem fixed.  The battery was just a little over 
drained.  For some reason the cig. lighter turns itself on while I'm 
not in the car, and I don't even have the actual lighter.  Granted 
that does not use a whole lot of power, but if the car isn't going 
anywhere for a while and that is on for a long time, then get the 
jumper cables.

However, I do notice heavy power fluxes when turning on the AC with 
headlights and the radio on.  Probably the Ducy, so in the near 
future I'll ditch it.  I'm considering getting the red Brute Master 
from John Hervey's site.  That is going to have to wait though 
becasue I have to replace the door locks.  The passenger side 
exterior lock cylinder is shot which is forcing the door to remain 
locked.  Can't even open it from the inside, and that occasionally 
causes the driver side door to lock me in for a little while.  So I 
will be turning it into a one key system and gonna grab me a 
LockZilla kit to go with it.

Anyway, thanks for the help!

Japheth VIN: 1223 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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