From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2490
Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 5:41 PM


There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Sony Gran Turismo 4
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: Sony Gran Turismo 4
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Fuel Injectors Cleaned
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

4. Re: "Fake" converter available (Rusty Hardware)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Fuel Injectors Cleaned
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Vendors... LED kits
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Lower Springs how to?
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Fw: door lift cylinders
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

10. Re: Lower Springs how to?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Tire questions one more time
From: "Charlesdos Mavor" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. London
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re:Door Lift Pistons- Rob or Houston (or DPNW?)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

16. Brake Calipers & Discs.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

17. Re: Vendors... LED kits
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:07:33 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Sony Gran Turismo 4


Looks like the D makes an appearance in the game as a "Prize car":

http://z-o-g.org/gallery/gt4prizecars/prizecars_06


-----Original Message-----
From: Steven L. Alves [mailto:steve_at_dml_fotofx.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 10:07 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Sony Gran Turismo 4



I noticed James Espey got a special thanks in the new Playstation game.
I haven't actually played it yet but I am guessing that means there is a
DeLorean in it..

Steve
#2700

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 15:51:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Sony Gran Turismo 4



Yes, a DeLorean is included. And in the "Credits" section of the Game 
Manual, you'll see that "DMC / DeLorean" is the ONLY car make listed 
that includes a URL for more information! No screenshots of the car 
yet online, but plenty are available, but I have seen the logo for 
DMC on the car selection screen over _at_dml_ ebgames.com.

All cars in this game come with upgrades that you can buy for them. 
I'm just curious as to what the DeLorean is going to have?

Don't own a PS2 yet to play this game, but the coworker who bought it 
last night was raving about it. I'll pick one up later down the road, 
when my car is complete. I just can't see buying a video game to play 
with a make believe car, when I have the real thing sitting outside!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> I noticed James Espey got a special thanks in the new Playstation 
game. I haven't actually played it yet but I am guessing that means 
there is a DeLorean in it..
> 
> Steve
> #2700
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:40:26 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injectors Cleaned



I had John at www.specialTauto.com do two sets for me and they came 
out excellent.
SM








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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:48:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: "Fake" converter available (Rusty Hardware)



That explains why exhaust systems rust from the inside out. Not how
the hardware deteriorates so badly. The reason the exterior of the
exhaust system rusts so much has to do with the extreme temperatures
it operates at and the thermal cycling. Mild steel disintegrates
quickly at these extremes. This is the reason many go to other
materiels like stainless steel, brass hardware, and things like
Never-Seize. BTW short trips are MURDER on exhaust systems. They never
get hot enough for the moisture to get completly evaporated so
moisture (along with acids) accumulate in the system quickly rotting
out the parts. In fact on many cars (not Deloreans) there is a small
hole in the muffler to allow water to drain out so it won't sit in the
muffler. If you store a car and run the motor for a few minutes once
in a while to keep it "active" it is very bad to not run it long
enough to reach operating temperature. In general to work on an
exhaust system you need to heat the parts up before you try to take
things apart. The hotter the better. Not doing that tends to break
everything. Cutting the hardware is also a good strategy since most of
it can't be reused anyway. At muffler shops they tend to "gut" the car
prefering not to waste much time on the old parts which will fail soon
anyway. They tend to want to do the whole system which on most modern
cars means at least from the cat back. On old cars it meant from the
exhaust manifold to the tailpipe.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The biggest byproduct of internal combustion is water vapor (burning
> HYDROcarbons). That's why exhaust systems rust from the inside out.
> That's also why a car that has never seen road or beach salt can have
> ho








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 17:14:03 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injectors Cleaned



Hey there, I'm in the Romeo/Bruce Twp. area! I recommend EMS classic 
car repair on Timken Rd. (It's north of 9 mile but before 10 off 
Hoover Rd.) Ed is really a great guy and did a ton of expensive, 
albeit very very good work on my DeLorean. They replaced my 
injectors' seals and I put cleaner in the tank, but they may perform 
a full job on them. Never hurts to ask. I don't have the number here 
at college with me but it should be in the local yellow pages. Hope 
this helps!
-John

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, rickmichaels_at_dml_y... wrote:
> 
> 
>   I am some tune up work on my car over the winter months and wanted
> to have my fuel injectors cleaned.  Does anyone recommend a service
> center to take them to are send them to?  Is there anything I should
> look out for when taking them in?  Also, should I mark the injectors
> so that they are put back in the same locations after cleaning?  I 
am
> in the Detroit area.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rick
> 0502








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 17:08:17 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Driver's side gullwing problem



Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut properly. 
I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) news 
about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, accidently 
knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly to 
myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, jury rig 
it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get it 
open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior light/door 
lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla or 
something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt solenoid? 
I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the door 
right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I learned 
my lesson!
John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm

He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the same 
cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 17:18:05 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Vendors... LED kits



I am looking for LEDs on the inside of the car. Who sells them? Who has done 
this? how much trouble was it to do? Vendors: you all know that service is 
key to sells. I for one dont do some projects because I dont want to muddle 
through the job removing what I should not, damaging parts, and taking hours 
to do a "15 minute job".
If I where a vendor I would take note of  
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html  this is a very well done 
site of how to work on the car.  If I was not that tech savvy I would 
discount or even give him (or someone like him) the part to do the docs on 
the job. You could ship the docs with the part to have an advantage in the 
market place. Even if you gave this information away to all on a website you 
would see a general rise in sales. Tell us why we need it, show us how, and 
deposit our checks.
I am a not a vendor. I do not want to flame or be flamed. I thank ALL of our 
vendors! I am blown away by the support and development they do! I tell 
everyone I meet that is the greatest part of owning this car, owners and 
vendors are top notch and dictated. If you think I am stupid please take it 
off the list as to save bandwidth.

Regards,
Charles Major
16835







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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 17:21:39 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Lower Springs how to?



Is this a do it your self job? What tools or precautions are needed? Anyone 
have a site with step by steps?
Regards,
Charles







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 13:06:38 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Fw: door lift cylinders


I got a pair of door pistons in Pigeon Forge from John Hervey. Originally, I suspected a torsion bar problem / adjustment, because I had installed new cylinders from Houston just 2 years before. The new ones are the strongest I have ever had on any of my 3 DeLoreans over 16 years.

Marv.
#17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 

  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.4.0 - Release Date: 2/22/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:23:45 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Springs how to?



If you can wait, we're planning a demonstration of one way to do this 
at the 2006 DCS at Pheasant Run. I think I have a "subject car" lined 
up, but just in case if anyone can plan that far ahead let me 
know.... The deal will be that the test subject buys the parts, we do 
the install for free as part of the show. 

That being said, it's one of those jobs that is pretty easy once 
you've seen it done, especially the rears. I do the rears without a 
spring compressor, just using a floor jack. The fronts are not too 
bad assuming you have the right tools. Most people don't. 

The precaution is using the right tools, using the wrong ones can 
dent your car or your head. The front springs have to be compressed 
an amazing amount to get them out of the car, lots of stored energy 
there. 

Another caution is that corrosion is a huge factor. If your car has 
lots of suspension rust, add --days-- to the procedure to allow for 
cleaning, painting, breaking things, etc. 

I don't know of any online tutorials on this yet, I suppose I should 
have taken more pictures last time. I have pics of the front spring 
tool, but not much else. If anyone else did (hi Cecil) let me know 
and we'll co-write something. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Is this a do it your self job? What tools or precautions are 
needed? Anyone 
> have a site with step by steps?
> Regards,
> Charles








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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:30:10 -0000
From: "Charlesdos Mavor" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Tire questions one more time



I saw lots of traffic a few weeks ago about tires cant find what I 
saved at that time. Does anyone beat Tire Rack on price? Quick run 
down on price/value of current tires.
Regards,
Charles








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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 14:02:37 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: London


I  am planning a trip to London next month and was wondering if there is 
anything DeLorean related there...

Dē & 6530 (with 2700)





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:20:15 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



John - Here is an option for you to consider.  If the solenoids are, 
in fact, toast then you can replace both solenoids with actuators for 
less than the cost of one solenoid.  The upside is that the current 
draw for the actuators is a mere fraction of what the solenoids take, 
so the door lock module will operate with far less stress on it.  If 
the relays inside your door lock module are burned (from the high 
current draw of the solenoids), we have replacement heavy-duty relays 
that are rated much higher than the originals.  Some soldering 
required, or you can send your door lock module to us, and we can 
replace the relays for you.  If you simply replace the old solenoids 
with new solenoids - you will be back in the same situation 
eventually.  Search for "wings" on our website, and see what is 
available.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:

> Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut 
properly. I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) 
news about. Do I need Lockzilla or something, or should I just go for 
a reconditioned/rebuilt solenoid? I noticed about a week ago I had a 
tiny problem unlocking the door right away but it was sporadic and 
didn't worry me. I guess I learned my lesson!









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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:26:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



This doesn't sound like a solenoid problem yet. It DOES sound like you
need to go over all the door adjustments. When you force or slam the
door you can knock/bend things out of adjustment/alignment. You should
not have to slam the doors to get them to close. If you do, you run
the risk of not being able to get it open. You have to now get the
whole door lock adjustment procedure and go through it step-by-step.
After doing that you should check the anchor pins and maybe they need
to be adjusted too. You should also check the other door. When you
have completed the adjustments you can try the power door locks. They
may still work. In any case disconnect the origional door lock module
after you test it. A Lockzilla or any other modifacation cannot help
you if the doors are out of adjustment or you have a burnt up
solenoid. For the rear view mirror DO NOT GLUE IT ON THE WINDSHIELD!
It MUST be attached with special tape, not glue. You can get it at any
auto glass shop or a Delorean Vendor. Be careful inside the doors,
there are a lot of sharp edges. Both locks on the door (front and
rear) have to be in the second locking position before you can try to
lock the doors. Forcing the doors to lock bends things out of adjustment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut properly. 
> I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) news 
> about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, accidently 
> knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly to 
> myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, jury rig 
> it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get it 
> open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior light/door 
> lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla or 
> something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt solenoid? 
> I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the door 
> right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I learned 
> my lesson!
> John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm
> 
> He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the same 
> cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:13:32 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re:Door Lift Pistons- Rob or Houston (or DPNW?)



Mark and List - Here is another great option to consider ... DPNW has 
these struts available, and we cover them with a limited lifetime 
warranty (limited to the original purchaser on the original car).  
Ours are made with an internal temperature compensation valve that 
allows the struts to perform very consistently regardless of the 
outside temperature.  This means that you shouldn't have a lot of 
variation between summer and winter operations.  As an aside, ours 
are also made by the company that supplied struts to the factory.  
People will use their favorite vendor, of course, but I thought it 
appropriate to point out another option for people who need these 
parts.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> www.specialtauto.com sells NEW struts that were made by the same 
> company that made the originals back when the factory was open.
> 
> Mark V









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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:40:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Brake Calipers & Discs.



Ok. As I begin to gear up to complete the last remaining part of my 
brake system, I must ask the following questions:

1. Someone mentioned a while back about using different components 
for improved braking. What ever happened to this kit/idea?

2. Resurfacing cross-drilled rotors: Is there any problem in doing 
this?

3. Rebuilding brake calipers: Is there anything that a shop can do, 
that I can't?

4. Sealing Brake Calipers: High-Temperature paint, Cadmium plating, 
polishing: What are the advantages/disadvantages/prefered methods?

5. How can I tell that my current calipers are OEM?

Thanks in advance!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 12:21:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vendors... LED kits


Here you go:

http://www.projectdelorean.com/leds.html

I've done the door light conversion kit and the A/C
console kit.  Cost you about $25-$28 with shipping for
all that.  Got my lights in 3-4 days flat.  Door
lights took about 5-10 mins - A/C console took maybe
at most 25-30 mins because I took it slow.  I followed
the exact same link you mentioned - excellent site I
agree.  

For the doors, have a flathead screwdriver with you. 
Take the lens out, than use the screwdriver to softly
pry at the sides of the rubber sockets.  It's much
easier to do with the rubber sockets loose and hanging
out of the doors.  Of course have your battery
unhooked so the bulbs don't get hot as you try to take
them out.  You'll need 4 amber leds and 2 red leds for
this.

For the A/C console, follow Jordan's "how to", then
just softly push in a little and turn to get the bulbs
out.  Then do the same to insert new bulb.  You'll
need 7 leds for this.

I have not done any of the other conversion kits yet. 
Maybe someone else here can comment on that, but I
definitely look at doing them soon.  When you see the
leds and how good they look, you'll never go back to
ordinary bulbs again.  More light and less power =
less strain on your electrical system = happy
DeLorean.

Jeremiah


--- Charles Major <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> I am looking for LEDs on the inside of the car. Who
> sells them? Who has done 
> this? how much trouble was it to do? 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 21:40:10 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



I hate to say it, but slamming the door shut when it wasn't closing
properly was the worst possible thing you could have done to it,
especially since you said it doesn't open.  The locking solenoid
probably has nothing to do with this problem, and I can guarantee
Lockzilla will not fix it.  Your problem right now sounds mechanical
with the latch/striker parts.

This will take many steps to diagnose and fix.

First, is the door locked?  Push the lock lever all the way forward. 
Does it roll back some?  Try opening the door while pushing the lock
lever all the way forward.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to remove the interior upper trim
piece to gain acess inside the door.  From here you should have a shop
manual if you've never worked with the lock/latch linkages.  What
needs to be done is make sure both latches are unlocked, and its
probably best to disconnect the link rods for the locks at this time
as well.  Once it is verified that both latches are unlocked, manually
release them latches by pulling on their respective link rods.  Your
door will hopefully open at that point, if not, there may be problems
deeper than I can describe here.

Once the door is opened, the root cause needs to be found.  This can
be many things, striker pin alignment, locking linkage, latch linkage,
perhaps your inner door seals are folded over and making the door too
tight.  The problem may have even been that a latch was not opened all
the way for some reason, and it came down on the striker pin partially
closed, not letting it engage.

Let us know what you find out at this point, and we can help you
correctly fix it then.

On a side note, the Delorean door locks should NEVER been locked when
the door(s) are open. (Its even in the owners manual!) Most car's
latches dont even allow this, but I've seen some that do, and the
reults are often a jambed door.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut properly. 
> I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) news 
> about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, accidently 
> knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly to 
> myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, jury rig 
> it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get it 
> open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior light/door 
> lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla or 
> something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt solenoid? 
> I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the door 
> right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I learned 
> my lesson!
> John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm
> 
> He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the same 
> cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 21:48:03 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problems... cold, now warm.



Time to think outside of the box!!!

Problem started when replacing fuel filter, did not exist before.

Problem now resulting is often a symptom of a faulty accumulator,
allowing fuel pressure to bleed off faster than normal.

Sure, its possible the fuel accumulator may have failed, but I like
trying the easy fixes first.  Check/tighten all of the fuel line
connections on the fuel filter.  If one of them has a very very small
leak, it could easily bleed off rest pressue in time for a hot/warm
start issue.  Since this is the part of the fuel system that was just
opened up, its the first place I would look.

At least checking this first means if it is the problem, you dont have
to buy anything!  I've heard fuel accumulator is a pain to replace. 
Couldn't tell you personally though, as my original one has never
failed!  Over 75,000 miles (total) and daily summer driving since
August 2000!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start problem!  A 
> good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I want to 
> get all of the facts out on the table.  Thanks in advance!
> 
> First I had a lingering cold start problem - after sitting overnight, 
> my DeLorean would have very hard cold starts.  It would crank for a 
> bit, then slowly (5 seconds or so) sputter to life.  After getting 
> started, it would run fine and would always fire right up when warm to 
> hot.  Installing a new fuel filter seems to have solved that problem 
> before I had to break out the pressure gauge.  That was last weekend...
> 
> Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with no 
> hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good drive.  I 
> parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't start!  
> It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up.  The fuel 
> pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of the 
> key.  After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve using 
> the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.  I drove 
> straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately tried 
> starting again.  It fired right up.  And 30 minutes later, it once 
> again fired up with absolutely no hesitation.  Unfortunately I had to 
> leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not hot" 
> zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
> 
> Known variables: fuel pump = replaced in late 2000, thermo-time switch: 
> less than a year old.. and the cold start valve seems to be working 
> properly - I pulled it out a few weeks ago to check.  Fuel 
> accumulator... ?  It could very well be the original.
> 
> Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a chance to do 
> further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely problem is a 
> bad fuel accumulator.  Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a 
> problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8 years 
> and put 40k miles on it.  So, here are my questions for the group:
> 
> 1) Is there any possibility that I have killed my fuel accumulator 
> simply by swapping the filter?  That seems odd...
> 
> 2) Can a faulty fuel accumulator be sporadic?  Or, assuming that it's 
> bad, did I just get lucky with my timing since it's gone bad?  It would 
> seem to be to be more of a binary, broken or not-broken, part to me.
> 
> 3) Is there anything else besides the check valve on the pump that 
> could be the culprit here?
> 
> Thanks for any ideas.
> 
> Travis Graham
> #06344








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