From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2491
Date: Thursday, February 24, 2005 6:12 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Factory Interior colors
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

3. Re: Brake Calipers & Discs.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. Gran Turismo 4 Screenshots
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Re: Re:Door Lift Pistons- Rob or Houston (or DPNW?)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

6. Re: Lower Springs how to?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. EBAY Car....
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: Factory Interior colors
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

10. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Fw: door lift cylinders
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. RE: Brake Calipers & Discs.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>

14. RE: Fw: door lift cylinders
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. DMCH Floor mats
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Millennium Concours corporate sponsor benefit package
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

17. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. Scytek Galaxy 5100RS Alarm
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

20. Re: DMCH Floor mats
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

21. Re: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. What the heck is wrong with people?
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

23. RE: Fw: door lift cylinders
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Lower Springs how to?
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

25. Re: EBAY Car....
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 22:50:16 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Interior colors



I think you're talking about pictures of a black interior car that 
used to be up on DeLorean.org. That was likely just an optical 
illusion because those pictures appeared to be taken at dusk, or 
most likely the camera picked up colors from a flash on the carpet 
that weren't there. Any variation from what I described in a post 
earlier in this thread is due to owner customization. I've seen 
DeLoreans with burgandy interiors, blue interiors, cloth interiors, 
etc but none of those were factory. Sans of course the one 24k Gold 
DeLorean that was produced with the tan interior. 

To complicate things further, there have been pictures of a DeLorean 
in the Guigaro Museum and another DeLorean altogether which both had 
tan leather. Who knows about those cars... we may never have any 
confirmation of how they came to have tan interiors. Interestingly 
enough I believe DMC-Texas found samples of different colored 
interior parts for the cars a while back when they moved their 
inventory from Ohio to Texas. I believe most were burgandy, but 
there may have been some other colors as well.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> I have seen a DMC with red toned carpet and black interior.?
> Anyone else seen this ?
> 
> Johan
> 5425








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 23:00:22 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



Speaking of slamming doors, how much force approximately should it 
take to close a door?  On all of the DeLoreans that I've closed the 
doors on, it took probably around 10 lbs of force to do it 
correctly.  The first time I rode in a DeLorean -- one with 1,300 
original miles, the owner told me to "pull hard" when I closed the 
door from the inside, and indeed, when I didn't in fear of breaking 
something, it didn't latch completely.  

Not to offend any women on the list, but 9 times out of 10 when I 
see them riding shotgun, they aren't able to pull the door shut in a 
single sweeping motion.  Usually what I see is that they need to 
first pull the door about 80% closed, stop and reorient themselves 
or whatever, and then pull hard the last 20% of the way to close it 
(sometimes with 2 hands). 

I would say that my DeLorean takes twice as much force to close the 
door correctly as my 1998 Chevy Malibu.  Any other opinions?

Matt
#1604



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> This doesn't sound like a solenoid problem yet. It DOES sound like 
you
> need to go over all the door adjustments. When you force or slam 
the
> door you can knock/bend things out of adjustment/alignment. You 
should
> not have to slam the doors to get them to close. If you do, you run
> the risk of not being able to get it open. You have to now get the
> whole door lock adjustment procedure and go through it step-by-
step.
> After doing that you should check the anchor pins and maybe they 
need
> to be adjusted too. You should also check the other door. When you
> have completed the adjustments you can try the power door locks. 
They
> may still work. In any case disconnect the origional door lock 
module
> after you test it. A Lockzilla or any other modifacation cannot 
help
> you if the doors are out of adjustment or you have a burnt up
> solenoid. For the rear view mirror DO NOT GLUE IT ON THE 
WINDSHIELD!
> It MUST be attached with special tape, not glue. You can get it at 
any
> auto glass shop or a Delorean Vendor. Be careful inside the doors,
> there are a lot of sharp edges. Both locks on the door (front and
> rear) have to be in the second locking position before you can try 
to
> lock the doors. Forcing the doors to lock bends things out of 
adjustment.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut 
properly. 
> > I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) news 
> > about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, 
accidently 
> > knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly to 
> > myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, jury 
rig 
> > it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get 
it 
> > open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior 
light/door 
> > lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla or 
> > something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt 
solenoid? 
> > I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the 
door 
> > right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I 
learned 
> > my lesson!
> > John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm
> > 
> > He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the same 
> > cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 23:22:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers & Discs.



Here's some snappy answers...

1 - Nothing since the Ed Euding kit. 
2 - Shouldn't be, someone was able to surface them in the first 
place. Make sure they are what you want, they can be noisy for a 
street application. 
3 - Not other than the plating. I generally get the rebuild kits from 
a vendor and do it myself. About 1/2 the time they will need new 
pistons too. Grady has very nice SS ones. 
4 - Spray paint is fast and cheap, OK if you are in a dry climate 
(like vegas). I've also used POR15 with good success in more severe 
climates (did it on the BMW a few years ago and they still look 
great). Cad plating is a whole 'nother animal - you have to take 
everything completely apart and it will take a few days. Grady does 
this on his rebuilds, they look like OEM new. I'm not sure it holds 
up all that much better than good paint, and it certainly won't stay 
gold for long. Polishing won't do anything except make them shiny and 
unprotected - then they rust. 
5 - If they have an ATE logo on them, they aren't. OEMs are Girling. 
I believe that those are the only two brands that fit the front, the 
backs are Girling-only. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Ok. As I begin to gear up to complete the last remaining part of my 
> brake system, I must ask the following questions:
> 
> 1. Someone mentioned a while back about using different components 
> for improved braking. What ever happened to this kit/idea?
> 
> 2. Resurfacing cross-drilled rotors: Is there any problem in doing 
> this?
> 
> 3. Rebuilding brake calipers: Is there anything that a shop can do, 
> that I can't?
> 
> 4. Sealing Brake Calipers: High-Temperature paint, Cadmium plating, 
> polishing: What are the advantages/disadvantages/prefered methods?
> 
> 5. How can I tell that my current calipers are OEM?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 22:30:36 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Gran Turismo 4 Screenshots



Here are some screenshots guys:

http://www.timbrad.com/gt4/index.php?type=display&dir=DMC%20Delorean%
2004

http://groups.msn.com/DMCPhotos/videogamedmc12rracingevolu.msnw

http://www.ebgames.com/gmspImages/23/236416/pt_561066_20050114_screen
039_2503rs116.jpg

The last link shows that the DeLorean can be bought and isn't just a 
prize car.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:12:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Re:Door Lift Pistons- Rob or Houston (or DPNW?)


What??!! Wow, I've been dreaming of temperature-compensating struts
forever. How long have you had them, and why weren't they mentioned here
before?

I haven't even looked at the website yet, but I'd easily pay $500 for
these. Great work Toby.

-Christian


On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com wrote:

>
>
>
> Mark and List - Here is another great option to consider ... DPNW has
> these struts available, and we cover them with a limited lifetime
> warranty (limited to the original purchaser on the original car).
> Ours are made with an internal temperature compensation valve that
> allows the struts to perform very consistently regardless of the
> outside temperature.  This means that you shouldn't have a lot of
> variation between summer and winter operations.  As an aside, ours
> are also made by the company that supplied struts to the factory.
> People will use their favorite vendor, of course, but I thought it
> appropriate to point out another option for people who need these
> parts.
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> >
> > www.specialtauto.com sells NEW struts that were made by the same
> > company that made the originals back when the factory was open.
> >
> > Mark V
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 01:18:12 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Lower Springs how to?



If you would like more information on this, drop me a line off list. I
have a few pictures comparing the springs,  where to cut; and I'll
give you some instructions on how to do it. -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 01:12:16 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



Where are you located? Here in NY, my latches freeze sometimes that
when I open the door, they stick open and don't close until I heat
them up or park indoors overnight. Otherwise, sounds like just a neeed
adjustment somewhere. -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> This doesn't sound like a solenoid problem yet. It DOES sound like you
> need to go over all the door adjustments. When you force or slam the
> door you can knock/bend things out of adjustment/alignment. You should
> not have to slam the doors to get them to close. If you do, you run
> the risk of not being able to get it open. You have to now get the
> whole door lock adjustment procedure and go through it step-by-step.
> After doing that you should check the anchor pins and maybe they need
> to be adjusted too. You should also check the other door. When you
> have completed the adjustments you can try the power door locks. They
> may still work. In any case disconnect the origional door lock module
> after you test it. A Lockzilla or any other modifacation cannot help
> you if the doors are out of adjustment or you have a burnt up
> solenoid. For the rear view mirror DO NOT GLUE IT ON THE WINDSHIELD!
> It MUST be attached with special tape, not glue. You can get it at any
> auto glass shop or a Delorean Vendor. Be careful inside the doors,
> there are a lot of sharp edges. Both locks on the door (front and
> rear) have to be in the second locking position before you can try to
> lock the doors. Forcing the doors to lock bends things out of
adjustment.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut properly. 
> > I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) news 
> > about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, accidently 
> > knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly to 
> > myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, jury rig 
> > it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get it 
> > open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior light/door 
> > lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla or 
> > something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt solenoid? 
> > I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the door 
> > right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I learned 
> > my lesson!
> > John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm
> > 
> > He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the same 
> > cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 02:54:22 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: EBAY Car....



Does anyone have any additional info on this car? Seems a bit strange
to me since there is really no description at all!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi
ewItem&rd=1&item=4530451946&category=31830
-----
Dani B. 5003








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 02:11:10 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Factory Interior colors



Although this is not a factory interior color, there is a Delorean
owner in central Illinois who replaced all stock factory interior
leather with pale green leather, including the dash and binnacle.
Not my choice, but the craftsmanship was very impressive.

The owner did have the car for sale a number of years ago, so I
did ask a lot of questions about the car and I should still have
some digital photos somewhere in one of my archives.  Within the
few weeks/months it was for sale, the owner decided not to sell.

The story behind the choice for the pale green leather was that
the owner thought it was a cool way to represent the car's Irish
heritage by making the interior green, and of course, because it
had never been done before.

I will try to contact the owner for more information, and if he
still has the car, I will try to get him to bring it to DCS 2006.

Later,
Rich W.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 02:10:47 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



Your doors must be out of alignment. On all of mine I can close them 
with 2 fingers and a gentle push. One quick pull from the inside 
does the trick as well.

Has got to be an alignment issue, shouldn't be extremely hard to 
close a Delorean door.

Joe OBrien

2524,
16634,
16851




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Speaking of slamming doors, how much force approximately should it 
> take to close a door?  On all of the DeLoreans that I've closed 
the 
> doors on, it took probably around 10 lbs of force to do it 
> correctly.  The first time I rode in a DeLorean -- one with 1,300 
> original miles, the owner told me to "pull hard" when I closed the 
> door from the inside, and indeed, when I didn't in fear of 
breaking 
> something, it didn't latch completely.  
> 
> Not to offend any women on the list, but 9 times out of 10 when I 
> see them riding shotgun, they aren't able to pull the door shut in 
a 
> single sweeping motion.  Usually what I see is that they need to 
> first pull the door about 80% closed, stop and reorient themselves 
> or whatever, and then pull hard the last 20% of the way to close 
it 
> (sometimes with 2 hands). 
> 
> I would say that my DeLorean takes twice as much force to close 
the 
> door correctly as my 1998 Chevy Malibu.  Any other opinions?
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > This doesn't sound like a solenoid problem yet. It DOES sound 
like 
> you
> > need to go over all the door adjustments. When you force or slam 
> the
> > door you can knock/bend things out of adjustment/alignment. You 
> should
> > not have to slam the doors to get them to close. If you do, you 
run
> > the risk of not being able to get it open. You have to now get 
the
> > whole door lock adjustment procedure and go through it step-by-
> step.
> > After doing that you should check the anchor pins and maybe they 
> need
> > to be adjusted too. You should also check the other door. When 
you
> > have completed the adjustments you can try the power door locks. 
> They
> > may still work. In any case disconnect the origional door lock 
> module
> > after you test it. A Lockzilla or any other modifacation cannot 
> help
> > you if the doors are out of adjustment or you have a burnt up
> > solenoid. For the rear view mirror DO NOT GLUE IT ON THE 
> WINDSHIELD!
> > It MUST be attached with special tape, not glue. You can get it 
at 
> any
> > auto glass shop or a Delorean Vendor. Be careful inside the 
doors,
> > there are a lot of sharp edges. Both locks on the door (front and
> > rear) have to be in the second locking position before you can 
try 
> to
> > lock the doors. Forcing the doors to lock bends things out of 
> adjustment.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" 
<ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hey all. I just discovered my driver's side door won't shut 
> properly. 
> > > I'm guessing its the lock solenoid I've heard so much (bad) 
news 
> > > about. What I did this morning was, slam it really hard, 
> accidently 
> > > knock the rear-view mirror off the windshield, swear quietly 
to 
> > > myself, apologize to the Man upstairs, slam the door again, 
jury 
> rig 
> > > it so that it would stay shut 99% for now (and now I can't get 
> it 
> > > open), then yanked out fuse 12 and turned off the interior 
> light/door 
> > > lights so they wouldn't kill my battery. Do I need Lockzilla 
or 
> > > something, or should I just go for a reconditioned/rebuilt 
> solenoid? 
> > > I noticed about a week ago I had a tiny problem unlocking the 
> door 
> > > right away but it was sporadic and didn't worry me. I guess I 
> learned 
> > > my lesson!
> > > John ("Johnny DeLorean" as my family calls me.) Rydholm
> > > 
> > > He who seeks the cheese shall not find the crackers in the 
same 
> > > cupboard. -Ancient Chineese food proverb. :) not








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:58:43 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: door lift cylinders


My car had Houston's struts in the doors when I got it and they are 
fantastic.
They opend the door quick, but when they got to the top they came to a soft
slow stop without any bounce back.
They were also soft when it came to pulling the doors back down.

When winter came they had lost most of thier pop, and the doors were sagging
so I bought a set Hervey's.
I will say that the ones he sells are strong and powerfull, but they do not
have any form of dampener to slow the door down, so now the door flings
open and bounces when it slams at the top.
The door, and the entire car shifts back and forth from the bouce.
They are too powerful and have no dampening stop.
They slam the door open and then you have to be HE-MAN to close them again.

John claims that they are made by the same manufacturer who made the 
original
OEM struts, however this is not impressing me much since most of the parts 
on the
car that are OEM are crap, and the replacements are always better.
Most of the other replacements that John sells are better than the OEMs.

I have not tried Grady's or Don's but I think they are selling the one's 
Houston sells.
I plan on replaceing them soon, I think I will check out what DMCH is 
selling at the show.

If anyone is interested, I can make a video showing how the doors open with 
these
shocks and you can tell me if it is normal or not.

- VB







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 22:47:50 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Calipers & Discs.


Robert: See below

-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 1:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brake Calipers & Discs.





Ok. As I begin to gear up to complete the last remaining part of my
brake system, I must ask the following questions:

1. Someone mentioned a while back about using different components
for improved braking. What ever happened to this kit/idea?.
( Robert, I don't know what else can be done unless you want to drill out
the caliper holes and put in larger piston. I don't know what you get for
the time and expense.)

2. Resurfacing cross-drilled rotors: Is there any problem in doing
this? ( I don't know of any as long as you stay within specifications. You
do know that will take away from the heat transfer and cooling capacity.))

3. Rebuilding brake calipers: Is there anything that a shop can do,
that I can't? ( Not really if you have the honing tools, kits and such to
rebuild with )

4. Sealing Brake Calipers: High-Temperature paint, Cadmium plating,
polishing: What are the advantages/disadvantages/prefered methods?
( Cad plate is soft plating and under certain conditions will last for ever.
Rust preventative primer and a high quality SS paint will most likely last
your lifetime as well.) Either one will chip and rust spots will happen,
But, normally bead blasting off the rust with no lasting damage. The big
difference will be money.)

5. How can I tell that my current calipers are OEM?
( Made in Britain or Britain Pat. will normally be on them )

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


Thanks in advance!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 15:57:29 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <ssawyer37_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



The doors on my DeLorean are pretty darn easy to close.  It doesn't
take much to bring them down.  They also open up by themselves after
the latch is released.

Maybe you need a torsion bar adjustment?  New struts?

My 8yo daughter closes the passenger door every time the first time
either in or out of the car.  She doesn't struggle with it, she just
pulls it shut.

She's also quite talented when it comes to avoiding getting her
fingerprints on the door when she shuts it from the outside!

Johnny
5518

> 
> 
> Speaking of slamming doors, how much force approximately should it 
> take to close a door?  On all of the DeLoreans that I've closed the 
> doors on, it took probably around 10 lbs of force to do it 
> correctly.  The first time I rode in a DeLorean -- one with 1,300 
> original miles, the owner told me to "pull hard" when I closed the 
> door from the inside, and indeed, when I didn't in fear of breaking 
> something, it didn't latch completely.  
> 
> Not to offend any women on the list, but 9 times out of 10 when I 
> see them riding shotgun, they aren't able to pull the door shut in a 
> single sweeping motion.  Usually what I see is that they need to 
> first pull the door about 80% closed, stop and reorient themselves 
> or whatever, and then pull hard the last 20% of the way to close it 
> (sometimes with 2 hands). 
> 
> I would say that my DeLorean takes twice as much force to close the 
> door correctly as my 1998 Chevy Malibu.  Any other opinions?
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 08:05:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: door lift cylinders


Twin Engine Risk did a very thorough study on door
pistons a few years back.  There should be copies
still floating around.

Some of the vendors may have changed designs (I hope
DMCH did), so maybe we can convince Rick to do an
updated study?


--- Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

><SNIP>
> 
> I have not tried Grady's or Don's but I think they
> are selling the one's 
> Houston sells.
> I plan on replaceing them soon, I think I will check
> out what DMCH is 
> selling at the show.
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:11:28 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMCH Floor mats



Hey all,

I think I'll be getting a set of floor mats from DMCH soon, but I'm 
trying to decide which color. I've seen plenty of pictures of 
people's cars with grey interior and black mats, does anyone have a 
grey interior with grey mats? If so could you please either post 
some pictures or email them to me (usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com)? I'm curious to 
see how it looks. Thanks for the help!

Dave
#5968








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 08:10:10 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Millennium Concours corporate sponsor benefit package


I'm pleased to announce the first Millennium-Concours participant
benefit package.

The three Millennium Concours corporate sponsors (P.J. Grady, DMC-Texas,
and DeLorean Motor Center) have jointly developed a generous benefit
package for Millennium Concours competitors.

Effective immediately, all registered Millennium Concours competitors
will receive a 10% discount on all orders placed with any of the three
corporate sponsors. The discount is good from the time of concours
registration until the "rags-down" call at the event itself.

If you have any questions about the sponsor's benefit package for
concours competitors, feel free to contact the vendors directly or drop
me a note.

		Knut






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:13:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



If the door lock mechanism freezes on you in the cold you should
remove the latch mechanisms, clean off all the old lubricant,
relubricate with something that can take the cold, and reinstall. It
sounds like the old grease is just sticking in the extreme cold. There
are springs in the latches but if the grease is dried out the springs
can't overcome the gunk. A short-cut would be to just take the trim
off the doors and try to wash out the grease with a spray cleaner like
Brake-Clean and then shoot some spray grease at them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Where are you located? Here in NY, my latches freeze sometimes that
> when I open the door, they stick open and don't close until I heat
> them up or park indoors overnight. Otherwise, sounds like just a neeed
> ad








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:57:25 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem



More than just alignment can cause a door difficult to close.

The most common problems are mis-adjusted striker pins, incorrect or
bad inner door seals, or closing it from the wrong location.
--
For the striker pins, many early cars did not have the fiberglass
insill cut out far enough to properly align them.  Later cars had it
cut out further to allow better alignment and a rubber boot was glued
over the ugly opening.  This modification can be performed on ealier
cars.  Aligning it can be a pain and take a very long time, but for
most doors this is all they need.
--
Inner door seals can become folded over twords the inside on the upper
parts of the car, and along the A-pillar.  This can cause the door to
stick when closing, and can also prevent it from popping open once the
latches are release even with new struts.  I heard one case of door
seals being the sole cause of a jambed door on this list a few years
ago.  This can be caused by not using the correct seals from a vendor,
by physical misalignment of the door (which is not very common), or by
headliners and A-pillar trim pieces that stick out too far.
--
Not everybody is aware of door twisting when closing it from the wrong
location.  NEVER EVER close a door from the very front. It twists and
will physically not align properly on the strikers and could jamb the
door.  When closing the door from the outside, push down on the window
sill near the rear of the door.  My preferred spot is between the
B-pillar and the power window frame.  When closing from the inside,
use the pull strap for the entire motion if you have the later style.
 If you have the earlier style, try pulling it down most of the way
with the D-ring strap, then put your arm on the armrest and push down
with that (works for me when riding in an early style).  Also,
remember to pull strait down when using the pull strap and do not let
your arm start pulling it forward as you get near the bottom.

Other possible causes for a difficult door that are much less common
are over-tightened torsion bars, overcharged struts, malfuntioning
latches, or a physically misaligned door.
--
Over-tightened torsion bars not only can make a door difficult to
close, but they also increase the wear on them, increase the risk of
breaking or damaging the retaining plate, and breaking the epoxy
holding the plastic and fiberglass roof panels together.
--
Overcharged (or otherwise defective) struts are very rare, but I have
seen one instance of this happening.
--
Malfuntioning latches would only affect the final process of closing
the door (nothing to do with effort needed to pull it down).  The
latches should only be lubricated with a penatrating oil.  Any kind of
grease thicker than that will collect dirt and gum up the latches
preventing fluid movement.  This can also make it a little stiffer to
open.  Lock rod and release rod mis-adjustment can also cause them to
behave irradicly, but more often this creates opening problems rather
than closing problems.
--
I am one of the unfortunate few who have a physically mis-aligned
door.  It is a very difficult process to fix and I have yet to perfect
my passenger door even after 4 1/2 years of ownership.  I have been
able to make improvements with striker pin adjustments, new inner door
seals, trimmed up headliners cores, and moving the door around on its
hinges (with torsion bar removed), but its still not perfect.

These are everything I can think of at this time.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Your doors must be out of alignment. On all of mine I can close them 
> with 2 fingers and a gentle push. One quick pull from the inside 
> does the trick as well.
> 
> Has got to be an alignment issue, shouldn't be extremely hard to 
> close a Delorean door.
> 
> Joe OBrien
> 
> 2524,
> 16634,
> 16851








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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:04:48 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Scytek Galaxy 5100RS Alarm



I'm curious to see if anyone has installed a Scytek alarm system in
the DeLorean...  The Galaxy 5100RS has a nice set of features for a
very good price:

http://scytek.net/Products/page/5100RS.htm
http://asianwolf.com/5100rs/8000RS_Deluxe.html

Scytek is supposedly the OEM for Panther, Black Widow, Asian Wolf,
others...  but I can't seem to find much in the way of reviews.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:18:47 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH Floor mats



Hey Dave...

Have you or anyone else seen www.DeLoreanMats.com?  I stumbled onto
this site recently.  Has anyone purchased these mats?  If so, what are
your thoughts/impressions on the fit and finish?

I am tempted to get the trunk and rear mats...would have purchased
them already if I could have cashed in on the 15% discount offered to
members only.


Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I think I'll be getting a set of floor mats from DMCH soon, but I'm 
> trying to decide which color. I've seen plenty of pictures of 
> people's cars with grey interior and black mats, does anyone have a 
> grey interior with grey mats? If so could you please either post 
> some pictures or email them to me (usndmc_at_dml_y...)? I'm curious to 
> see how it looks. Thanks for the help!
> 
> Dave
> #5968








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:58:50 -0500
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Driver's side gullwing problem


<<<
I would say that my DeLorean takes twice as much force to close the 
door correctly as my 1998 Chevy Malibu.  Any other opinions?

Matt
#1604>>>

About 10x as hard as my Lexus ES300 but you have to remember that DeLorean doors are closing while loading up a lot of tension, while pretty much any other conventional door does not.  It SHOULD take more effort to close.  

If it takes a good slam, one should check to see if their door is hitting the primary and secondary latches at the same time while closing slowly.  If not, adjustments are in order.

Andy





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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:05:33 -0500
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: What the heck is wrong with people?


Hey gang,
After driving around in my car yesterday running errands I woke up this morning to find that it had been egged.  I'm one of the unfortunate folks who doesn't have a garage and as such am forced to park on the street which hasn't been a problem thanks to a great set of neighbors but now I'm wondering what I can do to keep this from happening again.  I am not a flashy or flamboyant person and I always try and be respectful of other people's property so stuff like this just baffles me when it happens.  When I see a vintage auto that someone has tried to care for I think the owner should be applauded for their efforts-not humiliated by trying to harm their vehicle.  I'm sure many others have similar stories and I've read a few in my time on the DML but you always think "that can't happen to me" but unfortunately it probably will.  Oh well, at least egg comes off of the stainless steel quite easily!
Thanks for listening while I blew off some steam,
Mike
#3760

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 16:25:35 -0500
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: Fw: door lift cylinders


<<<If anyone is interested, I can make a video showing how the doors open with 
these
shocks and you can tell me if it is normal or not.

- VB>>>>>

VideoBob,

Are you sure your torsion bars aren't overtightened a notch or two?  If you remove the piston from the door and let the door hang, it should only have a couple inches of space from being closed.  If you have much more than that, the bars are too tight.  It's likely a previous owner may have cranked them up one because the struts were about dead and this way they opened better!

Andy





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:46:51 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Springs how to?



Hey Charles...

Do you get Gullwing Magazine?  I am finishing up an article for the
next issue that has step by step instructions for installing DMCH's
new Eibach Springs and shocks.

FYI
Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Is this a do it your self job? What tools or precautions are needed?
Anyone 
> have a site with step by steps?
> Regards,
> Charles








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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:56:50 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: EBAY Car....



I have some information on this  car, email me off list if interested.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any additional info on this car? Seems a bit strange
> to me since there is really no description at all!
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi
> ewItem&rd=1&item=4530451946&category=31830
> -----
> Dani B. 5003








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