From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2499
Date: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:45 PM

There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: delorean turbo repair
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <>

2. Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "d_rex_2002" <>

3. Re: RE: Trailer Hitch
From: Marc Levy <>

4. Re: Early VIN Door Key Replicas!?
From: "brandelorean" <>

5. Re: window motor installation procedure

6. Re: Custom Headlight Covers (Blackouts) For Sale
From: "brandelorean" <>

7. DMC (Florida)
From: "Tony" <>

8. Re: RE: Trailer Hitch
From: "gullwingmag" <>

9. Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

10. Re: High Idle Followup & Thanks
From: "content22207" <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 17:19:12 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <>
Subject: RE: Re: delorean turbo repair

I am pretty confident that Don Steger and also Bauerle Auto both still 
service the twin turbo setups.
I have spoken with the lady at Island in the last week and she is in the 
semi retirement mode.
You can still get parts from her if you can catch her at home. I am getting 
the pipes I need from her but I can tell you it took persistence to get her 
on the phone.

The turbos they offer are 20 year old technology and just need to be updated 
to the newer ones available. (Ball bearing and water cooled) Too bad we 
can't take advantage of all the fuel and spark systems that are available 
for the "Fast and Furious"  rockets now without changing  everything.
With the 6-$7000 price tag it is understandable why the Island setups are 
not selling considering the other mods available to you for that spend.

Cecil Longwisch

>From: "Michael Townsley" <>
>Subject: [DML] Re: delorean turbo question
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 17:15:30 -0000
>I have an original Island Turbo set up i.e. no Cats or pressure
>switches, etc,...and when I inquired to them about finding someone
>who could check out the system for me...I got the same packet...but
>no solid lead on who could service the set-up. I still have no idea
>if they are working properly or not...the car does run though.
>Since there seems to be several Island Systems around


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 22:59:36 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <>
Subject: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!


You may want to re-consider a few of the things you mentioned
regarding the stripping and refurbishing of your frame.

Acid dipping - to do this in such a way as to remove the epoxy
and not damage the mild steel underneath, you may have your
frame in a solution for several YEARS.  This was done by a
member of the Mid-States Delorean club and he had his frame
at Redi-Strip for a few years at the bottom of one of the big
tanks.  They would check it, early on, every few days, then
weeks, then months.  Of course, the loose epoxy came off right
away, but the stuff that was stuck good was STUCK REAL GOOD.

Sand blasting - you need to be careful with the type of media
used, especially if you were considering stripping the entire
frame.  Again, where the epoxy is still stuck good, you will
really need to work at these areas to remove the epoxy, but
care must be taken not to accidently remove adjacent good steel
with a media that is too abrasive.

Hot dipped galvanizing - not only can the heat from this process
warp your frame, but plan to re-tap every bolt location on the
frame after the galvanizing process, to clean out the threads.
Again, this has been done before and takes a lot of extra time.

Since you said that your frame is 90% in good or very good shape,
you may want to do spot repairs, POR15, prime the entire frame
and then paint the entire frame the desired color.  Otherwise,
your dad may not get his garage back for a long, long time.

Rich W.

--- In, dmcjohn_at_dml_h... wrote:
> Hi lads,
> snip <
> Anyway, the next step will be to get the welding done, then get the
> frame acid dipped and sandblasted, hot-dipped galvanised, and
> powdercoated. I'm not going to get the original matte gray color on
> the frame, I'm going to powdercoat it a very bright metallic 
> to give it more of a Stainless Steel look. I'll powdercoat the
> suspension arms the stock black color...
> snip <
> Thanks,
> John Dore, Ireland.
> Vin 3810


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 15:42:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: Re: RE: Trailer Hitch

I have seen them..  I think they are specific to
DeLorean, someone used to make them.  I think DeLorean
One maybe??

--- Jack Singer <> wrote:

> Has anyone put a trailer hitch on their DMC?  If so,
> is there a standard
> part number that can be ordered somewhere.  I want


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 00:27:45 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <>
Subject: Re: Early VIN Door Key Replicas!?

Hey Guys,

I have an original Delorean key with the light bulb in it.  
Everything is connected but the bulb is blown.  I've taken it apart 
and have studied it's design.  Not really much but a shaped piece of 
metal soldered to a small bulb.  Once the battery touches the metal, 
the bulb turns on.  I'm going to try resoldering a small bulb and try 
running some tests.  If possible, I'd really like to recreate one 
using Stainless Steel.  The only problem with the Delorean key is 
that it is bulky and awkward and feels quite funny in your pants.  
Not sure if you wanted to know that much...


Brandon N.
Vin 3323  

--- In, "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I will add to that question. Are there any parts available for the 
lit keys 
> if you already have one?
> Steve
> #2700
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...>
> To: <>
> Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 4:00 PM
> Subject: [DML] Early VIN Door Key Replicas!?
> > Hello-
> > Does anyone have any idea where I can find a replica of the the
> > original door key for the early VIN Deloreans with the push button
> > light!?


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 23:50:15 -0000
Subject: Re: window motor installation procedure

Cecil - I have a PowerPoint slide that shows the installation 
options.  If you would like a .pdf version of the slide, email me off-
list and I will send it to you.  This assumes that the window motors 
that you bought 7 years ago are the same as those being sold today.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC

--- In, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> 
> I am finally replacing my window motors. Anyone have a writen 
procedure on which attachment point you use for the heavy duty but 
different motors that we are using now or better yet pictures? I 
litterally bought mine 7 years ago and can not find the instructions 
if I received any.


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 00:32:51 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <>
Subject: Re: Custom Headlight Covers (Blackouts) For Sale

Hey Tamir,

Thanks for the quick response!  I'd have to say I agree with VB.  Is 
the mirror option even an option with the guys you are going 
through?  Thanks by the way for doing this, I was actually looking 
into it before you brought it up since I have some old D magazines 
that feature companies with front and back covers.  If the black 
doesn't work at night, it'd probably be easier to stick with clear, 
brownish, and the mirror tint.

Thanks again,

Vin 3323

--- In, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
> Tamir, I am glad that you are doing this.
> The DeLorean community needs more motivated guys like you to bring 
us these 
> cool accessories and I hope that people order them.
> I assume that there will be vacuum formed plastics?
> Might I suggest an idea that I thought would look cool?
> Use the clear, and use mirror tint on the inside so that they 
appear to be 
> chrome
> or silver, but the light shines through.
> Just an idea that I think would look cool.
> You might want to take a poll as to what styles people prefer.
> Cool.
> - VB
> >From: "Tamir Ardon" <tamir_at_dml_e...>
> >Reply-To:
> >To: <>
> >Subject: [DML] Custom Headlight Covers (Blackouts) For Sale
> >Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 23:12:53 -0800
> >
> >
> >
> >Dear List,
> >
> >Yes, the blackout headlight covers that a lot of people are 
looking for are
> >hopefully going to be produced with the help of the DeLorean 
> >


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 00:47:52 -0000
From: "Tony" <>
Subject: DMC (Florida)

Hi all,

I have been asked if my venture with DMC (Texas) has anything to do with 
"The Jag Shop" or if David is working over here. This shop has nothing to do 
with David or The Jag Shop what so ever. The reputation of this shop is all on 
me and my insanity for detail that I know you will all appreciate.

Tony Ierardi


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 00:49:59 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <>
Subject: Re: RE: Trailer Hitch

The hitch many of you have seen on the Yellow D was made by Rich 
Weissensel and company.  You might want to check with him and see if 
he is going to make any more.

I was going to buy the hitch from DMC Houston but I was told there 
was a liability issue.  Check with Houston anyway, maybe its not an 
issue now.


--- In, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
> DMCH has one that they sell, you might check thier site or call 
> I was going to buy one but it would not match up well with my 
> exhaust.
> I thought it was strange that used a 2" reciever on it, since that 
is way 
> passed the


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 01:24:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!

Another big problem with hot-dip galvanizing is that you will trap a
lot of zinc in many hidden places in the car. This will add a lot of
weight. You will never get all the epoxy off unless you put the frame
in a barnfire. Epoxy is very tough to get off. If the majority of the
frame is in decent shape local repairs are the way to go. You may also
have trouble finding someone in your area with a tank large enough to
do your frame, it is quite large for most places. Powder coating is
probably a good alternative now to epoxy and galvanizing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 02:19:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: High Idle Followup & Thanks

In the interim Woody could idle his engine manually. I know this is
not a popular option in the DeLorean community, but it's a perfectly
valid use of the brass screws already in place. FWIW: A/C compressor
load doesn't seem to be an issue -- never needed the aux air valve for
it when I ran my K Jetronic manually, and I've never added an A/C
solenoid to my current carb. Warm up is the only difficult time.
Throttle plates/deceleration valves will of course need to close
properly (unless he decides to idle his engine by cracking them in
lieu of brass screws).

Don't think vacuum leaks are Woody's problem. Usually those cause
decreased or erratic idle speed from unmetered air, unless mixture is
cranked way up to compensate (which then kills fuel economy on the road).

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> It is also possible the black box that runs the idle motor (the idle
> computer aka idle ECU) is bad. It does fail (not often) and will leave
> the idle stuck in a high speed. You cannot blame the idle motor, it is
> only doing what the idle ECU is commanding. The "best" way to
> determine is to temporaraly substitute a known, good, idle ECU with a
> known, good idle motor.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 


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