From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2501
Date: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:08 PM


There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Reminder - Detriot AUTORAMA Cobo arena
From: dmcnews

2. Re: photo album problem
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Wheel alignment specs
From: Logan Homes <johnjarvis_at_dml_clear.net.nz>

4. question about brakes
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

5. Re: question about brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: question about brakes
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

7. Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

8. Re: question about brakes
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Articles for DCS magazine
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: question about brakes
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "Farrar \"Doc\" Hudkins" <dochudkins_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

16. PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

17. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles (An Explanation)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

19. Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

20. Pheasant Run update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

21. New engine cover stay
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: 2 Mar 2005 15:02:04 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Reminder - Detriot AUTORAMA Cobo arena


We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.

Detriot  AUTORAMA  Cobo arena 

Date: Saturday, March 5, 2005 
Time: 10:00AM EST (GMT-05:00) 

Detroit's Biggest Auto Show of dragsters,funny cars,fuel cars
race cars,antique car,vintage cars. my Delorean will BE THERE
Vin00538 

 




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 05:44:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: photo album problem


Just a quick comment on this...

Can people uploading take note of the proper
locations?  I always tend to find photos in the
"files" section...  they belong in the "photos"
section!

When a photo is in the files section, the feature of
icon preview do not work.


> ADMIN NOTE - The photo album was full because
> someone uploaded about 10 meg of files all at once.
> It has been cleared and should work again. The
> photos of the gold car and univeral BTTF car will be
> move to www.dmcnews.com shortly....dave


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 20:37:41 +1300
From: Logan Homes <johnjarvis_at_dml_clear.net.nz>
Subject: Wheel alignment specs


Hi All
 
Just fitting new shocks and want to have an alignment done but the company
hase no idea of the spec. Can any one help me with these? Or point me in the
right direction?
 
Thanks  Deloreansailor 3627


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 18:08:21 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: question about brakes




The brake system in my (automatic) car seems to work fine but I'm not
sure what normal should be. 7,500 original miles on all parts. The
entire system has been flushed with fresh fluid and bled correctly.
The overall braking power seems quite adequite. I can lock up the
wheels in a skid if I hammer down on the pedal really hard. Pedal
height seems fine. It doesn't go down very far nor does it get too
near the floorboards.

However, I was wondering what the normal "feel" of the brake system
should be. Right now, it feels kind of like a non-power assist
hydraulic system. It's not as hard as a totally manual hydraulic
system, (like my '69 vw bug) but close. It takes a few extra pounds of
force to get decent braking power out of the system. When I drive any
other power-assist disc brake car, very little force if any is needed
on the pedal to produce the braking power. If I am stopped at a
stoplight, simply letting one foot rest on the pedal is not enough to
stop the car from creeping forward (while in drive at an 800rpm idle
speed) If i rest both feet on the pedal, the car stays stopped
tightly. I dont have to forcibly push the pedal down with both feet,
just let that extra weight resting on the pedal is what I mean. I
guess what I'm asking is should the DeLorean brake system have
"feather-touch" sensitivity or is what I'm describing pretty normal?

thanks
-sean










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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 20:05:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: question about brakes



Even with the brake booster the brakes in a Delorean are not
overpowered. They are a little on the heavy side in keeping with it's
un-assisted steering and sports car road feel. You could have a glaze
on the rotors and pads. Especially with low mileage. You could also
have a kinked or collapsed vacuum hose going to the brake booster.
Some people think the pedal is a little soft. With the 4 hoses they
expand a little so many have gone over to the braided metal brake
hoses to stiffen the pedal. You really have to drive another "D" and
see how it feels. Maybe you just need to lubricate the pedal assembly.
It is also possible you have a sticking piston. Make sure the car does
not have any tendancy to pull in either direction when you hit the
brakes. You should be able to hold the car with only 1 foot at idle
with an automatic.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The brake system in my (automatic) car seems to work fine but I'm not
> sure what normal should be. 7,500 original miles on all parts. The
> entire system has been flushed with fresh fluid and bled correctly.
> The overall braking power seems quite adequite. I can lock up the
> wheels in a skid if I hammer down on the pedal really hard. Pedal
> height seems fine. It doesn't go down very far nor does it get too
> near the floorboards.
> 
> However, I was wondering what the normal "feel" of the brake system
> should be. Right now, it feels kind of like a non-power assist
> 








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 20:02:52 GMT
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Re: question about brakes



Hi Sean,

As to the feel I could tell you that mine seems to work more like the "newer" cars.  It's not feather wieght, but I deffinetly do not need to have a lead foot to keep it steady.

This may not make too much sence, but confirm fluid levels.  Maybe someone else could add to what might be the problem.

Luis






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 20:37:33 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Opaque Coolant Bottles



I haven't had an overheat since I upgraded my electronics and added an
overflow tube.  I still have the plastic coolant bottle though, and
this is unrecommended by just about everyone.  For those with the
stainless or otherwise opaque coolant bottles, how do you check the
level / fill it up to the right ammount?  Even without overheats, I
still like checking my levels to make sure everything is in order...

Also, wasn't someone coming out with a new bottle soon?  Was it also
to be opaque?

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 20:12:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: question about brakes



I distinctly recall that when I bought my D, after driving it home I 
was surprised to find that it even **had** power brakes. They are 
definitely NOT like your average over-assisted-generic-car brakes. 
They are closer to what I see on BMWs, but still take a bit more 
effort. (BMW, by the way, uses a Girling master cylinder that bears 
an amazing resemblance to the one on the DMC, even on cars 20 years 
newer. The booster is notably bigger, though as are the calipers.)

Since that time I've driven many different DeLoreans, and they all 
feel about the same (except for a couple where between one and three 
brake calipers didn't work at all!). 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The brake system in my (automatic) car seems to work fine but I'm 
not
> sure what normal should be. 7,500 original miles on all parts. The
> entire system has been flushed with fresh fluid and bled correctly.
> The overall braking power seems quite adequite. I can lock up the
> wheels in a skid if I hammer down on the pedal really hard. Pedal
> height seems fine. It doesn't go down very far nor does it get too
> near the floorboards.
> 
> However, I was wondering what the normal "feel" of the brake system
> should be. Right now, it feels kind of like a non-power assist
> hydraulic system. It's not as hard as a totally manual hydraulic
> system, (like my '69 vw bug) but close. It takes a few extra pounds 
of
> force to get decent braking power out of the system. When I drive 
any
> other power-assist disc brake car, very little force if any is 
needed
> on the pedal to produce the braking power. If I am stopped at a
> stoplight, simply letting one foot rest on the pedal is not enough 
to








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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 15:40:37 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Articles for DCS magazine


If anyone has an article for the magazine the drop dead deadline is March 17.
We will put in St Patricks day events then we plan to get the next issue out 
So if you have something you want in the magazine or have promised an article you need to have it in soon

thanks

Ken
Delorean Car Show Inc.





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:07:53 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles



Take the lid off. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
>  For those with the
> stainless or otherwise opaque coolant bottles, how do you check the
> level / fill it up to the right ammount?  








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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:26:07 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles



Dave Swingle wrote:

> Take the lid off. 

And have a clear straw with to dunk/seal/pull up for times of unideal
lighting conditions when you cannot look into the bottle, or carry
your maglight* around with you.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

*If you dont already go for the ultra-hip look of a mini-maglight
strapped to your belt perhaps its time to do so, or else just have
some other form of flashlight in the DeLorean at all times, comes in
very handy.








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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:18:50 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: question about brakes


You say your car has only 7,500 miles on it.  How many of those have
been driven in the last year?

My DeLorean had exactly what you described when I first bought it. (I
have felt it on others too, I've driven a lot of D's). After the first
year of driving mine regularily and doing nothing to the brakes it
slowly turned into a more normal feel.  After a flush/bleed 1 1/2
years later, it felt very normal.  However never have I felt a
DeLorean with the extreme feather-light pressures needed in a brand
new car.

Based on the fact that you recently did a flush and bleed and can
still lock up the brakes points me in the direction of the booster. 
Perhaps the vaccume hose is blocked/kinked somewhere not letting it
get up to full power.  However if your car has indeed sat for a long
time without regular use, I'd probably just give it some time and
drive it a lot to see what happens.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The brake system in my (automatic) car seems to work fine but I'm not
> sure what normal should be. 7,500 original miles on all parts. The
> entire system has been flushed with fresh fluid and bled correctly.
> The overall braking power seems quite adequite. I can lock up the
> wheels in a skid if I hammer down on the pedal really hard. Pedal
> height seems fine. It doesn't go down very far nor does it get too
> near the floorboards.
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:39:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles


Wimp. ;-) Just stick your finger in it. If it gets wet, there's enough 
coolant in it. If it hurts, the coolant is hot. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Dave Swingle wrote:
> 
> > Take the lid off. 
> 
> And have a clear straw with to dunk/seal/pull up for times of 
unideal
> lighting conditions when you cannot look into the bottle, or carry
> your maglight* around with you.
> 
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC6960








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 14:38:05 -0800 (PST)
From: "Farrar \"Doc\" Hudkins" <dochudkins_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles


--- gzapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com> wrote:
> I haven't had an overheat since I upgraded my
> electronics ...

Greg,

In what way did you upgrade your electronics?

Farrar

=====
"Forty-two," said Deep Thought, with infinite majesty and calm.


	
		
__________________________________ 
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday! 
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web 
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 23:02:44 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Take the lid off. 

LOL.  I'm certain that would tell me if there was fluid or not; I just
wasn't expecting it to tell if I had the right level so easily
anymore...  I guess this isn't an unforgiving scientific issue here.

I'll probably go with the drinking straw idea from the other reply, at
least for the initial filling.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 23:15:45 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



I've got a stock '80 B28F in my Volvo 262(K-Jet, Lambda/cat/freq 
valve, de-accelerating valves on throttle plates, ignition 
distributor with vacuum delay solenoid, stock F cams, stock F 
pistons, 004 warm up regulator, no micro switches, same full 
distributor as a stock Delorean).

I also have my original B27F that has the smooth throttle plates.  
I've also got new B28E cams and pistons, and a B28E dizzy from a UK 
spec Volvo.

Question:  What is the best configuration I should go with to improve 
performance?
My consideration:  Use B27 throttle plates, de-Lambda the engine (O2 
sensor, cat and freq valve), use the B28E dizzy and remove the vacuum 
delay solenoid components, B28E cams and pistons, advance timing from 
10 to 13 and adjust CO from 1% to 1.5-2.0%.
I'm also trying to hook up with a B28E fuel distributor and CPR.

When I'm looking to locate the B28E fuel distributor do I need just 
the distributor or do I need the distributor and the air intake?  
Which CPR should I look for, 038 or 066? Remember, no micro switches.

After replacing all the components, what is the best way to tune for 
best results without the Lambda system?

I'm also considering doing some head porting.  Does anyone have any 
pointers/tips on doing PRV heads?  I know the exhaust really needs at 
least gasket matching and a good cleaning and polish.  What about 
doing the intake?  Any tips on how to match the intake manifold to 
the heads?

I have a source to have headers made but I'm trying to get 
information on what the best specs for the headers will be: runner 
length, tube ID/OD and collector size.  Thanks for any and all help!  
Rick








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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 02:14:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles (An Explanation)



Perhaps some explanation:

Do not confuse the "coolant bottle" with a closed type system
reservior (it's really just an expansion tank). It is located on the
pressurized side of the radiator cap and serves the same function as
an air gap at the top of an old fashioned radiator. As coolant heats
up, it expands to the cap. Any excess gets spit on the road. You can
fill it to the top if you want, but I guarantee that after cool down
there will be an air gap in the tank. This is normal. Since the
expansion tank is the highest point in the system, as long as there is
some fluid in it you're cool (assuming the rest of the system is
healthy). 

Be careful where you route the overflow hose. If it's pointed towards
the engine you may generate a cloud of steam and panic yourself
unnecessarily.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Take the lid off. 
> 
> LOL.  I'm certain that would tell me if there was fluid or not; I just
> wasn't expecting it to tell if I had the right level so easily
> anymore...  I guess this isn't an unforgiving scientific issue here.
> 
> I'll probably go with the drinking straw idea from the other reply, at
> least for the initial filling.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 02:26:00 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



Rick,

I've spoken on the phone with John Lane from Pacific Rim Automotive 
(http://www.pacrimauto.com/) about these sorts of things, and I must 
say, the man is a genius when it comes to "upgrading" your PRV.  
He'll have all of the answers to these questions before you even ask 
them.  He is the man who developed 500 HP from a PRV, BTW. 

My thought is that he'll tell you to go get a Volvo 760 GLE 2.8L 
engine, and bolt the eagle premier heads on it, along with the DMCH 
headers (they do sell them separate, don't they?). 

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I've got a stock '80 B28F in my Volvo 262(K-Jet, Lambda/cat/freq 
> valve, de-accelerating valves on throttle plates, ignition 
> distributor with vacuum delay solenoid, stock F cams, stock F 
> pistons, 004 warm up regulator, no micro switches, same full 
> distributor as a stock Delorean).
> 
> I also have my original B27F that has the smooth throttle plates.  
> I've also got new B28E cams and pistons, and a B28E dizzy from a 
UK 
> spec Volvo.
> 
> Question:  What is the best configuration I should go with to 
improve 
> performance?
> My consideration:  Use B27 throttle plates, de-Lambda the engine 
(O2 
> sensor, cat and freq valve), use the B28E dizzy and remove the 
vacuum 
> delay solenoid components, B28E cams and pistons, advance timing 
from 
> 10 to 13 and adjust CO from 1% to 1.5-2.0%.
> I'm also trying to hook up with a B28E fuel distributor and CPR.
> 
> When I'm looking to locate the B28E fuel distributor do I need 
just 
> the distributor or do I need the distributor and the air intake?  
> Which CPR should I look for, 038 or 066? Remember, no micro 
switches.
> 
> After replacing all the components, what is the best way to tune 
for 
> best results without the Lambda system?
> 
> I'm also considering doing some head porting.  Does anyone have 
any 
> pointers/tips on doing PRV heads?  I know the exhaust really needs 
at 
> least gasket matching and a good cleaning and polish.  What about 
> doing the intake?  Any tips on how to match the intake manifold to 
> the heads?
> 
> I have a source to have headers made but I'm trying to get 
> information on what the best specs for the headers will be: runner 
> length, tube ID/OD and collector size.  Thanks for any and all 
help!  
> Rick








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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 02:27:19 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Opaque Coolant Bottles



You could probably get away with just topping it off.  If there's 
too much in there, it will blow the excess out onto the 
pavement...where you can be waiting with a bucket, of course :)

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> > Take the lid off. 
> 
> LOL.  I'm certain that would tell me if there was fluid or not; I 
just
> wasn't expecting it to tell if I had the right level so easily
> anymore...  I guess this isn't an unforgiving scientific issue 
here.
> 
> I'll probably go with the drinking straw idea from the other 
reply, at
> least for the initial filling.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894








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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 22:09:40 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Pheasant Run update


Just a word on Pheasant Run
 
The Corvette people did end up signing a contract so we will be there at  the 
same time.
Right now it appears that we will be working out a sharing agreement so  that 
we can see their show and they can see ours ( Sat Car Show not the  dinners)
 
The joint show allows us to actually do more and gives us some new  resources 
that we did not have available before. With this arrangement the line  up by 
VIN number will be on Friday and if the weather is nice we can do the cars  by 
class.
 
We also will be in the Not yet finished DuPage conference center owned by  
Pheasant run and it is just across the street so that will keep us and our  
activities separate from the Corvette show but within a short walk across the  
street. (about twice the distance from the Grand Convention center in PF to the  
Grand Hotel) 
 
It also gives us more room on Friday and they have agreed to give us the  
front parking for the Thursday cruise in right out in front of Pheasant run  
lobby in a nice parking lot.
YES IT IS ASPHALT but not as faded as we would like LOL.
 
This new schedule will allow us to do the engine rebuild and suspension  
upadate that we could not have done before.  There are a lot more  advantages for 
us with this arrangement and a lot more room for the cars  especially if it is 
nice weather. (over 4 acres of rolling hills.)
 
This note is just to keep the rumor mill from churning.
 
I am really excited by this event.  For about $20 per person more than  PF we 
will be in one of the premier resorts in Chicago.  This will be one  of the 
fullest shows we have done.
Hope you enjoy.
 
Ken
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 03:42:48 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: New engine cover stay



Group, 
I have another new product. The new engine cover stay that is twice 
as long with three screws for better holding power and leverage. 
I still have to slot and plate them so they will be ready by the end 
of next week but you get the idea.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html
 
 








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