From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2503
Date: Thursday, March 03, 2005 10:00 PM


There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Frame strip - epoxy removal sample
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

4. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

5. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

6. Re: Re: Frame strip - chemical soup
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

7. BTTF Screensaver
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: DOT 5 Brake questions
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Reproduction Illuminated Key Blanks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Replacement rims
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. RE: BTTF Screensaver
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: BTTF Screensaver
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 23:22:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



(Comments apply to DeLorean PRV as well...)

If you have an opportunity to increase compression, go for it.
Provides the same benefits as forced induction without all the
complications. PRV's can obviously handle 9.5:1 no problem (in the
B280 redesign, compression was even increased to 10:1). Just make sure
your pistons match the liners.

Also go for the highest cam lift possible. Will pull maximum mixture
into the cylinders.

Make sure your engine DOES have PCV connected. Not only ensures that
damaging internal pressures do not build up, but goes a long way
towards avoiding sludge under the valve covers. If you've got the
breather hose connected but not the calibrated nipple, you are
probably sucking oil backwards into the intake. 

I believe the dual barb spark advance is Volvo's attempt to avoid over
advancing ignition (what is base time on your EPA sticker?). Ford did
the same thing in the 1970's when base time was advanced all the way
to 16 degrees. Under certain conditions vacuum is shot to both barbs,
disabling it. That's the purpose of the solenoid your inner hose is
routed through. E series engines simply run one hose from the ported
barb under the throttle plates straight to spark advance. You can do
the same using the outer barb. Be sure to then time your ignition at
10 degrees BTDC (900 RPM). Vacuum advance is superceded by centrifugal
advance at higher RPM's anyway.

All fuel distributors have lower chambers. Non-Lambda models feed them
internally at full line pressure. Lambda models feed them externally
at moderated line pressure. By simply unplugging the frequency valve
you can accomplish the same thing. John Hervey sells barbed banjo
fittings and high pressure hose if you want to bypass it altogether
(flexible hoses do not affect performance between CI and the tank). My
previous Renault installation didn't even use banjo fittings in/out of
the fuel distributor, but had inline barbed fittings with whatever
that thread pitch is (x1 I believe).

Series 018 CPR is not far removed from Series 038: starts at ~6 PSI
and warms up to ~51 PSI at 155 degrees. Also has the same full
throttle enrichment mechanism (do NOT try to plumb it like a Series
066. Simply run a single hose straight to full manifold vacuum). Was
used on B27E through 1979, and thus would be a perfectly suitable
substitute for the later Series 038.

I've never had an engine with deceleration valves, and thus can not
comment on their merit. Ostensibly Douvrin introduced them for a
reason. Of course even the greatest innovations sometimes succumb to
age or mileage. I'm guessing their purpose is to smooth out some of
the undesirable characterics endemic to PRV's (that's Volvo's stated
purpose of the separate B28 throttle plate assembly). I seem to
remember the transition between idle and throttle on my Renault Z7
(B27) block being less than seamless (manual idle, not CIS).

Be aware that running your engine richer can negatively impact a
catalytic converter. Overall engine temp will be reduced (you may want
to bump the thermostat closer to 200 degrees). Exhaust will be much
cooler too, especially if you jetison the converter, which can
accelerate rust. Needless to say emissions testing will be out of the
question. 

And don't neglect your ignition. I'm a big fan of high voltage coils
and wider spark plug gaps. Perhaps that's the only way I'm able to
combust all this fuel...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick DeVaux" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> Bill, Thanks for the great reply.  Since I have new cams and pistons I'm
> planning on a rebuild, but that will wait for at least a year. 
Engine is
> fun to drive as is (no smog pump / EGR / PCV same as a Delorean) but
I'll
> likely remove the Lambda system once I find a 038 CPR.  A few
questions for
> you:
> My current distributor vacuum advance does have the two barbs.  Do I
just
> cap off the "inner" barb?  Is there any difference between the E and
F dizzy
> curves?
>  What is the "best" way to remove the Lambda system?  What needs to be
> capped off and what needs to be completely removed?  
> What's the best way to configure the fuel distributor sans freq valve?
> Do you recommend removing the deceleration valves and filling in
their holes
> or replacing the throttle plates with the ones from the B27 or
leaving as
> is?
> Once the Lambda is removed is tuning basically setting desired
timing and
> CO?
> 
> Since I've got the B27 to play with I was considering looking at head
> porting possibilities.  Any tips, pointers or warnings?  Thanks
again for
> the reply, Rick








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 23:37:14 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Frame strip - epoxy removal sample



Just so happens I have a couple of trailing arms that are just about 
to hit the trash can - if you want them to experiment with you pay 
shipping. Contact me off list quickly - Garbage Day is next 
Wednesday. 

They are not useable on a car without major stripping and refinishing 
(had to heat with a torch to get the TA Bolt out) and new ones are 
cheap enough that it's not worth it, at least to me. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> Instead of having the acid stripping guy trying a sample of the
> frame, why not just give him one of the trailing arms to put in
> his tank.  > 
> Later,
> Rich W.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmcjohn_at_dml_h... wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Rich,
> > 
> > > 
> > I have a guy coming to inspect the frame from the acid stripping 
> > place in 2 weeks, and I think we will be testing on a sample area 
> of 
> > the frame where the epoxy is in excellent shape, such as the top 
> of 
> > the frame. This








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 17:27:19 -0700
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please


I don't have details regarding the extent of porting requiered for the
DeLorean heads to gain the most power but you should remember that too much
is worse than no porting at all. Velocity plays a key role in maximizing
performance. Finding someone with porting experiance and a flow bench is the
best approach. I doubt you'll find anyone with direct B27 or B28 experinace
so it  would be a trial and error technic going a little at a time.

Bruce Benson

> Since I've got the B27 to play with I was considering looking at head
> porting possibilities.  Any tips, pointers or warnings?  Thanks again for
> the reply, Rick






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 00:06:49 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please


Bill, Base timing is 10 degrees.  PCV is complete and well-
functioning.  What's your experience with what Greg suggests, that 
the Lambda closed loop can be adjusted for better performance beyond 
Lambda=1?  If that's possible, why do European PRVs not have Lambda 
systems?  My Volvo does not require emmissions testing and will 
eventually lose the cat.  But if there's a benefit to maintaining the 
Lambda for driveability and it can be adjusted for performance, I'm 
all ears.  My experience is the frequency valves can go out and do 
become a driveability issue until replaced.  Thanks, Rick

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> (Comments apply to DeLorean PRV as well...)
> 
> If you have an opportunity to increase compression, go for it.
> Provides the same benefits as forced induction without all the
> complications. PRV's can obviously handle 9.5:1 no problem (in the
> B280 redesign, compression was even increased to 10:1). Just make 
sure
> your pistons match the liners.
> 
> Also go for the highest cam lift possible. Will pull maximum mixture
> into the cylinders.
> 
> Make sure your engine DOES have PCV connected. Not only ensures that
> damaging internal pressures do not build up, but goes a long way
> towards avoiding sludge under the valve covers. If you've got the
> breather hose connected but not the calibrated nipple, you are
> probably sucking oil backwards into the intake. 
> 
> I believe the dual barb spark advance is Volvo's attempt to avoid 
over
> advancing ignition (what is base time on your EPA sticker?). Ford 
did
> the same thing in the 1970's when base time was advanced all the way
> to 16 degrees. Under certain conditions vacuum is shot to both 
barbs,





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 23:56:29 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



Greg, Thanks for the reply.  What is the best way to retain the 
closed loop system and allow it synergize other performance 
modifications? My goal with the updates/changes to the engine is for 
better performance.  Rick








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 20:24:44 -0500
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Frame strip - chemical soup


Virtually all paint strippers are caustic, not acid based as caustic (usually sodium or potassium hydroxide) with toluene, methylene chloride,  acetone and they would be better at breaking down the chemical bonds of the paint and more effective at removal. The acid bath (phosphoric usually) would of course be better at cleaning rust and etching the metal once it is paint free.

Be very aware of the fumes what ever you use and the potential release of nasty and possible lethal gases.


Food for thought in your trials


Cecil Longwisch
#10663



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dave Swingle<mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 6:37 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: Frame strip - epoxy removal sample


  Just so happens I have a couple of trailing arms that are just about 
  to hit the trash can - if you want them to experiment with you pay 
  shipping. Contact me off list quickly - Garbage Day is next 
  Wednesday. 

   





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 01:48:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: BTTF Screensaver



My son found this in his ramblings around the internet. I take no
credit for it or responsibility. Go to
http://www.uselesscreations.com/bttf. If that doesn't work try
http://freestuff.tierranet.com. It is interesting though. You need
DirectX8 to run it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 01:35:58 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: DOT 5 Brake questions



Probably too late if there is any damage to be caused - I doubt if 
you will notice anything or cause any damage though. I put silicone 
fluid DOT 5 in my D clutch system years ago to keep moisture out of 
the slave cylinder. Worked great - stopped going through slave 
cylinders too. The Valvoline SynPower brake fluid is a low moisture 
type of fluid and synthetic base. It appears ideal for the DeLorean 
brakes and clutch.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charlesdos Mavor" 
<charlesmajor_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> OK,
> This is the smartest bunch of folks on the net so here it is. I 
> drained, flushed, filled, and pressure bleed with DOT 5. I know 
that 
> it is slightly compressible so it will not perform as well as the 
> castro. DONT put it in CLUTCH- I am good with that too. I sent in 
> some masters off another car to Apple brake cylinder service to 
> sleeve and make kits. He said to use Valvoline SynPower High 
> Performance Dot 4 Brake Fluid. He said that DOT 5 eats rubber- 
WHAT? 
> I thought that stuff was inert! I know that he builds brakes 
> everyday, but I trust you guys more. Do I need to get that DOT  5 
> out or is this guy confused?
> Charles Major








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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 01:42:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Reproduction Illuminated Key Blanks



One of the problems with the lighted key is that it was only for the 2
key (early) system. Those locks are no longer available either. The
answer is to reproduce the lighted key blank on the blank for the one
key system. I don't think anyone is offering such a thing at this time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> If the illuminated key blanks were available I think there would be 
> a reasonable demand for them, I know some of us either have non-
> functioning illuminated keys or like myself, somewhere along the 
> line the previous owner opened the key and removed all the inner 
> workings of the bulb, most likely when the battery died, and I would 
> like to replace or repair it in some way. Even something like 
> replacements for inner workings of the bulb would be nice.
> Josh
> 3989
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > DMC (Texas) had the regular molded head keyblanks done a couple 
> years
> > ago, and have gotten the illuminated key blanks quoted. I'm hoping 
> to
> > have them made them later this year, retail about $25-$30, for both
> > early and late key systems. Is there a demand for this style key at
> > this price?
> > 
> > We have some pre-cut early style door lock keys here, if you know 
> the
> > key code. These keys are incomplete, just being the "key half" 
> without
> > the DMC logo half/button or battery and internals.
> > 
> > James Espey
> > DMC (Texas)
> > http://www.delorean.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > >  
> > > Hello-
> > > Does anyone have any idea where I can find a replica of the the 
> > > original door key for the early VIN Deloreans with the push 
> button 
> > > light!? Ive searched all the usual part retailers but everyone 
> tells 
> > > me they arent available anymore. Thanks for your input.
> > > 
> > > Josh
> > > VIN 3989








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 02:23:07 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Replacement rims



DMC rimsss..Yes, I'd like to replace the original rims with ones that
are same size and dimensions as the original, but just a different
design. In other words, I'd like to use the same tires the original
uses, and also be able to use the spare if I get a flat. I think
I'll
keep the originals for whenever I want to go back to original, or I
might sell, who knows yet. But I'd like to just update the look
of my
car, and rims are important. Do these need to be custom made? I've
seen plenty of DeLoreans with different rims so, any information on
this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!-----Dani B. #5003
(soon to be S/S frame!!)








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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2005 21:43:24 -0600
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: BTTF Screensaver


A warning about this,
this will install an adware pop up into your web browser.
AVOID this one, it's a scam.
They give away these little freebies and then send you unwanted ads.
-VB

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] BTTF Screensaver
>Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 01:48:39 -0000
>
>
>
>
>My son found this in his ramblings around the internet. I take no
>credit for it or responsibility. Go to
>http://www.uselesscreations.com/bttf. If that doesn't work try
>http://freestuff.tierranet.com. It is interesting though. You 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 22:29:13 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF Screensaver


Careful... It is wrapped in advertising crap that will also install on your 
system..

Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:48 PM
Subject: [DML] BTTF Screensaver


>
>
>
> My son found this in his ramblings around the internet. I take no
> credit for it or responsibility. Go to





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________________________________________________________________________


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