From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2504
Date: Friday, March 04, 2005 7:35 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DOT 5 - Long Term Experience
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

2. RE: DOT 5 Brake questions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social News
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

5. Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com

6. Reminder - Detriot AUTORAMA Cobo arena
From: dmcnews

7. Re: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

8. Re: Stainless Frame Vs Galvanising.
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>

9. RE: DOT 5 Brake questions
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

10. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: A/C or Cooling Fan Bug
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. Re: Replacement rims
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

13. RE: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Chevy Bellhousing Adapter
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. Timing curves
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. BTTF car engines
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: DOT 5 - Long Term Experience
From: "ehennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: BTTF Screensaver
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

20. To Vendors and all DMLers... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!
From: "Dan Deutsch" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Stainless Steel boot support bracket
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. Re: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

23. Re: BTTF car engines
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

24. Re: DeLorean Motor Company Opens Southeastern Regional Service and Restoration C
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

25. dot5
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 21:17:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: DOT 5 - Long Term Experience


I installed DOT 5 in my first D about 19 years ago when I converted my
car from automatic to manual.  The car sat for about 8 years with the
DOT 5 in the system before I got the car out of storage, re-did the
fuel system and started driving it again. Last year, 5 years after
bringing the car out of storage and driving with the same DOT 5 fluid,
I drained the system, disassembled the brakes and clutch and was amazed
at the good condition of the fluid, cylinders and seals.  A year ago,
the brake master cylinder developed an occasional drip which ultimately
led to my adding a little fluid.

I may have replaced the clutch slave when I removed the car from
storage and installed a new Centerforce clutch as a preventative nature
so this component may not have had the long term results.

I have also used the silicone brake fluid in surge brakes on boat
trailers and after years of trouble-free results, wonder why anyone
would use anything but DOT 5 in this application.

Recently, I re-did the brakes on my "new to me" D that had been sitting
for 6-7 years with DOT 4 before I bought the car and re-did the brakes.
   The fluid looked like a cement mixer drink tastes going down and a
couple of the flexible lines were so plugged they could not be
unplugged with 140 psi air. What a contrast to my DOT 5 storage
experience!

I have not noticed any difference in performance between the two
fluids, but for reliable, long-term braking performance, I'll stick to
DOT 5.

Woody









	
		
__________________________________ 
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday! 
Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web 
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 23:48:26 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DOT 5 Brake questions


Mike, If this is what your talking about, Then it's the same thing I use.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-fluid.jpg

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net [mailto:mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 1:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] DOT 5 Brake questions

You are both confused.  The best fluid for Girling brake and clutch
systems, which is what your DeLorean has, is Castrol GT-LMA.
Castrol is by far the friendliest fluid for the rubber compounds that
Girling uses.  All other fluids, regardless of DOT classification will
cause seal failures within 6-12 months.  This is not limited just
to DeLoreans, the Lotus guys have the same experience.

--
Mike
-------------- Original message from "Charlesdos Mavor"
<charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>: --------------

>
> OK,
> This is the smartest bunch of folks on the net so here it is. I
> drained, flushed, filled, and pressure bleed with DOT 5. I know that
> it is slightly compressible so it will not perform as well as the
> castro. DONT put it in CLUTCH- I am good with that too. I sent in













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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 07:33:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



Your earlier post stated "no PCV", so I assumed it had been
disconnected. Apologies.

In the world of automobiles you can't have it all:
- Performance
- Economy
- Comfort
As one increases, the others go down. You have to strike a balance.

F Series runs much leaner than Douvrin ever intended (was not imported
until 1976). European models are much closer to original design. Of
course they are slightly less fuel efficient and produce slightly more
pollution, but that's only a problem if you commute like an American.

I have absolutely no experience with PRV Lambda systems. Neither of my
installed engines had it, nor does my B27 spare. If any of them had, I
would have removed it from the vehicle. That's my philosophy: distill
an engine to its basics (haven't you noticed that my favorite
adjectives are "simple" and "straight"). Gary/Greg has a totally
different philosophy. If your intent is to keep Lambda in place and
modify its operation, he is certainly a better source of information.

Note that 9.5:1 compression will require a richer mixture to avoid
spontaneous combustion. You'll also have to run higher octane and
quite possibly cooler spark plugs.

It sounds as if your ignition distributor has a standard Volvo advance
curve (both centrifugal counterweights active). Do not advance base
ignition time too much or you may encounter problems with
predetonation, even at 8.5:1.

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> Bill, Base timing is 10 degrees.  PCV is complete and well-
> functioning.  What's your experience with what Greg suggests, that 
> the Lambda closed loop can be adjusted for better performance beyond 
> Lambda=1?  If that's possible, why do European PRVs not have Lambda 
> systems?  My Volvo does not require emmissions testing and will 
> eventually lose the cat.  But if there's a benefit to maintaining the 
> Lambda for driveability and it can be adjusted for performance, I'm 
> all ears.  My experience is the frequency valves can go out and do 
> become a driveability issue until replaced.  Thanks, Rick
> 









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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 07:55:53 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social News


I would just like to take a moment to thank everyone who has 
pre-registered for this event thus far.  Remember, if you need to book a 
hotel room for the weekend, the discount price is only good until March 
16th.....After that, the room is $30 more!

The officers have been hard at work planning out details for the event, 
and we have a lot of great stuff lined up for all of you who plan to 
attend.     We are trying to break our old record of 33 cars at an event 
by shooting for 40+, and  It looks like we will be able to do it!

P.J. Grady will be in attendance doing inspections of cars and selling parts
The new DMA club logo won't be hard to miss on our new t-shirts we will 
have at the social!
Door adjustments will be available for those of you with a little droop 
in your wings  ;)
Lunch, awards, raffles, dinner, car shows.....SO MUCH FUN....SO MUCH TO DO!

So what are you waiting for!!!????   Check out the club web-site and 
sign up today for the event!  Its fast and easy to sign up and register 
with us on line.
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm

See you then!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 07:43:08 -0000
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!



Hi Rich,

Thanks for your reply. Just a few questions on some of your 
comments...
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> As for the actual repairs, in almost every case heavier gauge
> steel has been used, which should last longer than the original
> thinner, mild steel.  

Yes, I'm definitely going to use thicker steel when replacing the 
bottom plate of the front crossmember.

You mentioned:

> As far as galvanizing, I have seen one frame done and the same
> one frame warped from the heat.  For some cars, this would not
> be much of a problem, but for the Delorean with its stock front
> suspension design, there is not much adjustment for correction.

Would you have any pictures of this warped frame? Or any more info? 
Such as was the frame structurally sound before dipping? Where did it 
warp, and how badly? How long was the frame submerged in the bath 
for? This is the first frame I've heard of that actually warped, so 
I'd appreciate any info you have on it.

you mentioned:

> After all the work was done on the one galvanized frame example,
> the owner saved only a few thousand over buying a new SS frame.
> The owner said if he had the opportunity to do it all over, he
> would have purchased the SS frame and not have all the hassles.

I'd love a pearce frame, but just can't buy it at the moment. But, I 
calculate a huge saving going my route. The galvanising will cost 
about $150, sandblasting and repairs about $350, powdercoating 
another $400 or so. Acid dipping I'm not sure of the cost yet... 
Anyway, it will be significantly lower I expect than buying and 
shipping and importing a stainless frame...

If you don't advise the galvanising process, what would you recommend 
for treating loose epoxy inside the rear crossmember and shocktowers 
where sandblasting could not reach. Then, how would you re-protect 
this area? 

> Keep in mind this is first hand knowledge, not speculation or
> best hopes or best intentions, so weigh all the info accordingly.
> 
> Good Luck with your frame refurbishing project.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.

Thanks for your advice and good luck wishes! Hopefully it'll all go 
smoothly...

BTW, I do have a full unopened tin of POR-15 gathering dust in my 
garage. I could prime the frame with this, and powdercoat over it. 
How durable would you expect this finish to be? I just don't want to 
go to all this trouble to see rust re-appearing in 4 or 5 years... 
And, I want to make sure that the frame has excellent protection in 
the areas you can see easily, and more importantly, in the areas you 
can't see...

Best wishes,
John








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Message: 6
Date: 4 Mar 2005 15:31:32 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Reminder - Detriot AUTORAMA Cobo arena


We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.

Detriot  AUTORAMA  Cobo arena 

Date: Saturday, March 5, 2005 
Time: 10:00AM EST (GMT-05:00) 

Detroit's Biggest Auto Show of dragsters,funny cars,fuel cars
race cars,antique car,vintage cars. my Delorean will BE THERE
Vin00538 

 




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 14:58:52 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!


John

Are you sure you can power coat over POR-15?  Powder
coats that I am familiar with require about 450 degrees of heat 
to cure.  I would not be surprised if the POR outgasses at that 
temperature, which may cause problems with powder coat 
adhesion and coverage.

I understand your desire to end a rust problem once and 
for all - I have been battling rust for as long as I have owned
cars and I hate it.  One thing I have learned is that you need 
to be careful in choosing your technologies, particularly if
you are mixing them.  Each of the solutions you are considering
have surface prep requirements in order to work properly,
and in some cases, anything other than clean, degreased 
bare metal is considered a contaminant.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com: -------------- > 
> Hi Rich, 
> 
> Thanks for your reply. Just a few questions on some of your 
> comments... 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" wrote: 
> > As for the actual repairs, in almost every case heavier gauge 
> > steel has been used, which should last longer than the original 
> > thinner, mild steel. 
> 
> Yes, I'm definitely going to use thicker steel when replacing the 
> bottom plate of the front crossmember. 
> 







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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 14:20:15 -0000
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>
Subject: Re: Stainless Frame Vs Galvanising.


Hi all

The last week I get back a other serie off galvanising frames, the
frames neet for 100% clean to get theme galvanised.
white sand blasting you take a lot of the good steel off, and there
are to soem spots you can't get in.
The solution is the burn it off white out fire,heat paint remove.
But there is no air or flame, only the heat 450 Celcius.
The same temp as the galvanising bad.
And the frames will not warp,only the feul tank plate is a problem.
It will warp, I bold evry time 2 together to get it flat.
I put a Photo in the photo section.

Regards Ed Uding
www.dmc-service.nl
  
  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmcjohn_at_dml_h... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> On the subject of Galvanising DeLorean frames, 





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 15:00:16 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: DOT 5 Brake questions


John - That is indeed the fluid I am talking about.

--
Mike

-------------- Original message from "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>:
> 
> Mike, If this is what your talking about, Then it's the same thing I use. 





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 15:49:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please



I want to clear up something that seems misunderstood by some people
on the List. As long as there is at least one spring in the
distributer on one of the weights the mechanical advance works. In
some cars (not Deloreans) there are 2 springs and in some cars the
springs are different (ie they are not both the same). Same with the
weights (they are not always identenical). The spring is there to keep
the advance from coming in till a certain RPM AND to return the
advance back to 0 below the target RPM. If there is a second spring it
gives a "knee" to the advance curve, essentially preventing additional
advance until a certain RPM is exceeded. The other point I want to
make is on Deloreans it is the ONLY car I know of that does not have a
different advance set-up for the automatic verses the 5-speed.
Generally the manual version would have a much faster advance curve
than the automatic mainly because of the torque multiplacation
provided by the torque converter. For further information get out the
Workshop Manual and a timing light and watch the advance as you
increse the motor speed. Disconnect the vacuum to only see the
mechanical advance. You should see 20 degrees of advance. that means
if your base timing is 13, add 20 and see 33 degrees. Reconnect the
vacuum and you should see a total advance of 13+20+20 for a total of
around 53 degrees BTDC. You can plot the advance at every 1,000 RPM to
see what it is as it comes in too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
me a driveability issue until replaced.  Thanks, Rick
> >








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 08:35:13 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: A/C or Cooling Fan Bug


Jeremiah,
You didn't say if the A/C compressor was kicking in when you turned on the 
A/C. The fans are controlled by the same circuit, so this is a key factor.

If the compressor wasn't cycling, then something is blocking the signal. 
Check behind the right front wheel where the high/low switches are. Make 
sure the connections are clean and solid. If they are loose, they will open 
the circuit preventing the compressor from running as well as the fans. 
While there, you can use a multi meter to confirm the switches are closed 
when everything is at rest.

If the compressor was cycling, then there is probably something wrong with 
the diode. This diode allows the otterstat and A/C circuit to control the 
fans separately. Without it, the A/C compressor will engage when the fans 
turn on to cool down the engine. You can find the diode in the electrical 
compartment on the main wiring harness. Using a multi meter, check for 
voltage on both sides of the diode when the A/C compressor is engaged 
(engine temp should be below 220 while testing). If you have a major drop 
or no voltage at all on one side, then the diode is bad.

I hope this helps,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 01:03 PM 3/3/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>Hey guys.
>
>Quick question.
>
>Was driving car today - went to "Vent" on.  As I put
>the knob on "Max", I noticed my fans didn't come on,
>nor did the "Cooling Fan Fail" light come on (using
>FanFix 2x2).  Neither the light nor the fans came on
>in "Max", "Norm", or "Bilevel".  Turned on my
>"Override Failed Otterstat" switch, cooling fan fail
>light and fans came on.  





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 15:03:52 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Replacement rims


If you are going to all the trouble of sourcing a new rim, I would 
seriously consider picking something that will give you a better
long term tire supply.  Supply is bad now, it's only going to get
worse as more and more cars use larger diameter rims.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>: -------------- 

> 
> 
> 
> DMC rimsss..Yes, I'd like to replace the original rims with ones that 
> are same size and dimensions as the original, but just a different 
> design. In other words, I'd like to use the same tires the original 
> uses, and also be able to use the spare if I get a flat.





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 10:52:45 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!


You would want to powdercoat over bare metal.

-Joe Kuchan

>BTW, I do have a full unopened tin of POR-15 gathering dust in my
>garage. I could prime the frame with this, and powdercoat over it.
>How durable would you expect this finish to be? I just don't want to
>go to all this trouble to see rust re-appearing in 4 or 5 years...
>And, I want to make sure that the frame has excellent protection in
>the areas you can see easily, and more importantly, in the areas you
>can't see...







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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 16:40:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!


POR15 is good for 700 degrees (no way to tell about outgassing), but I'll bet you can't powdercoat over it. They even warn you that regular rattle-can spray paint won't stick to it once it fully cures. It's VERY slippery stuff. 

I've used it on brake calipers and engine blocks - very good in those 
applications as well as the normal metal refinishing.

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> John
> 
> Are you sure you can power coat over POR-15?  Powder
> coats that I am familiar with require about 450 degrees of heat 
> to cure.  I would not be surprised if the POR outgasses at that 
> temperature, which may cause problems with powder coat 
> adhesion and coverage.
> 





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 18:15:01 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Chevy Bellhousing Adapter



Anyone selling a Chevy bellhousing adapter for the DeLorean 
transmission?  I know that Don Steger made 15 of them 15 years ago, 
but he's sold them all by now.  E-mail me privately.

thanks,

Matt
#1604








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 19:05:40 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Timing curves



Does anyone have torque/timing curves for the stock DeLo engine they
can send me? Even curves with performance coil, wires and plugs are
useful. Thank you guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 17:48:54 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: BTTF car engines



Hey all,

Does anyone else have the BTTF DVD set?  I was watcing the first 
movie last night on DVD witha funny little trivia track that plays 
along with the movie.  It tells certain facts about production and 
the car and stuff.  During the part where Doc Brown is putting in 
the plutonium it said that they used three 81 Deloreans for the 
movie, and that all of them had Volvo 4 bangers in them.  Either 
they got there facts mixed up and didn't realize that the PRV was a 
V6 or they swapped em' with Volvo 4 bangers which wouldn't make any 
sense to me, unless the 4's were cheap and produced the torque 
needed to spin the tires.  I also noticed that every time the tires 
spin the road is very wet.  What I really don't understand is that 
every shot of the car from the rear shows the PRV oil pan 
underneath.  Wierd.

Japheth VIN: 1223








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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 18:52:20 -0000
From: "ehennebury" <ehennebury_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DOT 5 - Long Term Experience




<snip> 
> I have not noticed any difference in performance between the two
> fluids, but for reliable, long-term braking performance, I'll 
stick to
> DOT 5.
> 
> Woody

I too have had DOT 5 fluid in both brake and clutch systems for 
years.  I'm about to replace my clutch system since my throw out 
bearing failed and I figured I'd replace master, slave, and line 
while I'm at it.  I've considered going back to the Castrol, but if 
the DOT 5 gave me years of trouble free performance... why bother? 
I've heard of the seal wasting issue, but my brakes have the 
original seals in them, and have had DOT 5 next to them for 7-8 
years now.  Granted the seals might need replacing soon anyway, but 
the DOT 5 hasn't caused any catastrophic failure.  I just like the 
fact that it doesn't absorb water and plug the lines with rust.  It 
also won't eat paint/epoxy off surfaces it drops on.  So far I can't 
see any compelling reason not to use it (although I'm likely to hear 
some soon I imagine). 

Just my experience.
Eric.








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 15:04:11 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF Screensaver


If you want, I can re-package the installation and remove all teh spyware.

Videobob Moseley wrote:

>A warning about this,
>this will install an adware pop up into your web browser.
>AVOID this one, it's a scam.
>They give away these little freebies and then send you unwanted ads.
>-VB
>
>  





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 11:54:16 -0500
From: "Dan Deutsch" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: To Vendors and all DMLers... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!


The Mid-Atlantic Club is once again holding its Annual Spring Social on
April 16th-17th. This one is going to be a little different than past
Socials. Not only will the normal inspections and torsion bar adjustments be
going on, but this time there is going to be a different element of fun
involved. It's going to include giving away DeLorean related prizes to
owners who win certain contests. What are the contests you ask? Well, you'll
see when you get there. If I told you what they were, then you could prepare
to win and we want to keep it spontaneous. Sorry, it just has to be this
way. These contests will be like no other I can assure you. Everyone, even
DMA officers, can participate since Kevin and I are the only ones who will
know the details of these contests. It's just a bit of flavor we're adding.
:-)
 
Anyway, the main purpose of this e-mail is that I would like to extend an
open invitation to any person(s) or vendor who would like to contribute
DeLorean related prizes for this event. We have some donated parts/items
already, but we are in need of some more. So if any person or vendor has
anything they'd like to donate, please e-mail me privately at
DanRC30_at_dml_hotmail.com. Of course, all donators will receive full credit for
their donation, unless they wish to remain anonymous. The officers, members,
and attendees of the event will also appreciate it. Thanks, and hope to see
you there!!!
 
---Evil Dan
DMA Activities Director


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 19:54:00 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel boot support bracket



Group, 
I have my version of the fuel pump boot support bracket. It's made 
of 14 gauge Stainless Steel and has 3 legs for a better circular fit 
when you tighten down on the clamp. It is $22.95 if purchased 
separate or $10.00 extra with either of my fuel pump and baffle 
update kits. If you already have one of my fuel pump update kits, 
then you can purchase the bracket for 1/2 price + freight. Just send 
me an order and note in the comment box the order number or date you 
bought the kit. Check your bracket,it may be rusted.  
More to come.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-injection.html
  








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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 20:40:07 GMT
From: "trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Re: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!



Just as a side point, I know that Eastwood sells a powder coat primer that is for "RUST CONTROL" - at least that's what they say.  Then you coat over it with whatever color you want.

Luis
3723






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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 14:01:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF car engines


It is Wierd. There facts are just mixed up.

Sometimes people make mistakes without even knowing it. Especially when it
comes to DeLorean facts! :)

-Christian

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005, secret_jedi_guy wrote:

>
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone else have the BTTF DVD set?  I was watcing the first
> movie last night on DVD witha funny little trivia track that plays
> along with the movie.  It tells certain facts about production and
> the car and stuff.  
>






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 21:16:56 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Motor Company Opens Southeastern Regional Service and Restoration C



Do Memphis next!  It's right between Houston and Bauerle, a 10 hour
drive from either.  :-)  </wishful thinking on my part>

--Greg
#2894








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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 18:50:25 -0500
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: dot5


Charles,

I have been using DOT 5 in the Brakes and Clutch of #3635 for years.  I
haven't seen any problems that it has caused.

Bill Lane
#3635






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