From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2508
Date: Sunday, March 06, 2005 6:05 PM

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Battery Question
From: Andrew <>

2. Re: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

3. Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please
From: "stainlessilusion" <>

4. Air Conditioning
From: Todd Nelson <>

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 17:15:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Andrew <>
Subject: Re: Battery Question

On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Chris Almy wrote:

> You might notice that there is also a yellow top Optima battery. This is 
> deep cycle and costs more. I wouldn't recommend them as they have less 
> capacity and lower CCA.

...which honestly doesn't matter unless you're trying to start your car in 
the dead of winter in Minnesota.

For me, the Yellow Top was just the ticket, because I have some leakage in 
my electrical system I've never managed to track down, so if my car sits 
for a few weeks, it's dead.  I've had a Yellow Top in there for about a 
year and a half now, and I've got nothing but great things to say about 
it.  The lower capacity and CCA has never been an issue at all (but then, 
I'm in Houston, where it barely dips below freezing in the winter).



Message: 2
Date: Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:04:50 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please

endotex23 wrote:

>Finally, while I'm no great fan of emission standards I accept the
>very real benefits they provide to the environment. It seems you do
>not. Until you and a few others accept that gobs of power can be made
>and still keep the air clean you're doomed to drive clunkers. Put
>another way there *is* a substitute for cubic's called
I'm going to take you to task here. While you're absolutely correct in 
what you say, have a look at and chase down the 
statistics on pollution produced in the production of these modern, 
"cleaner" cars and compare it to the emissions kicked out by a 20 year 
old car in 20 years...

Over here in Europe, we're now sitting on cars such as the Renault Clio 
182 and the Honda Civic type R (is this in the US yet?) both of which 
are small, relatively economical runarounds that through some really 
clever VVT are pushing the 100bhp/litre goal, normally aspirated. 
engines over 2 litres make up (I would guess) fewer than 5% of cars on 
the road, and probably around 33% are diesels. North America really is 
behind the times.

>For Martin: A D with emissions equipment is speced at 1% (measured
>pre-cat with the lambda loop open) because the cat needs it there. 
>With no cat 2% CO is still leaner than best power, a bit higher on the
>CO will get you more. If you're looking for max power than 2% is too
>low but it'll still be less than your max when you get there. Do some
>dyno pulls (if you can) to get it dead on but generally speaking it
>should end up around 4%.

According to my friend and PRV expert, anything over 2% is not a healthy 
mix and you'll start experiencing bore-wash. Remembering of course that 
the mixture adjustment screw is only the "+C" in your fuelling graph and 
what really counts is shimming up the primary pressure regulator and 
tuning it up using a wideband lambda probe. You can also use this 
method, to a certain extent, to tune up a turbo'd D. After all, the 
K-Jet system is a crude air-mass meter, just a restrictive one. Shim it 
up to account for that restriction and all you have to worry about is 
the ignition (sigh)



Message: 3
Date: Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:16:34 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance - Set me straight please

You're exactly right, I'm not sure why I thought these had bad air
flow, I guess I was just thinking the louvers would keep air from
flowing into the bay. I never thought it was that horrible, just not
great. I've been running my engine for years with no heat shields
anywhere and I don't have any problems-no warped parts, no melted
wires, none of that-so I should have studied the design and flow a
little more then posting a stupid thought. You're probably right about
the air being sucked through, I've never really put any thought into
this, and thats
why my engine has no problems with no shields. Then again, my car came
from south carolina with the cat gutted (what is it with SC and their
cats???), if it was packed I'm sure those temperatures would be much
higher on the surrounding metal. Sorry about that -----Dani B. #5003

ONE more thing, how many of you out there have EFI converted engines?
Likes...dislikes? How much did it cost? How much of a pain in the ass
was it to install? If someone whose done the conversion and could help
me consider it more-email me off list, I'd appreciate it! -----DB

> --- In, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > 
> > Don't forget that these engines are sitting in the back of the
> > DeLorean. As opposed to engines that sit up front and have air 
> blowing
> > on them all the time (from fan or just from air flowing into the
> > radiator); the DeLorean has a very poor air flow in my opinion.
> we
> > had intakes on the sides of the car that scooped up air and threw
> > on the engine, I'd bet they would be much cooler.
> <SNIP>
> I'm gonna argue that one. The vented engine bay of the DeLorean,
> the radiators mouted remotely, is a helluva lot cooler than that
> engine bays of the front mounted cars I've owned. Even my 4-banger 
> pickup's engine compartment is hotter. And keep in mind that the 
> DeLorean also houses it's catalycic convertor in the engine 
> compartment too.
> The DeLorean is a great design. Front radiators that vent hot air
> the wheel wells. A rear engine that bathes it's finned oil pain in 
> cool air, and lies in a fully vented compartment.
> Air blowing across an engine makes no difference. Especially when 
> it's hot air that has been warmed by the engine's own heat from a 
> radiator.
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2005 18:12:34 -0500
From: Todd Nelson <>
Subject: Air Conditioning


I assume this will be a relatively simple question to answer as most of you have had to do this at some time or another.  My question is, what is involved with restoring the air conditioning system.  I'm guessing you would have to dispose of the old R12 Freon and switch to 134A, right?  Does that mean a new compressor?  My guess is this is not something the average home mechanic could do, given the disposal of Freon and recharging, etc.  What's the average cost, I know there are many factors, but a general figure will do.

Thanks in advance,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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