From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2512
Date: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 4:28 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. 2006 Chicago Gathering question
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: 1 Year Anniversary...and a message of hope!
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

3. Re: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

4. Re: Battery Question
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Voltage problems still
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Air Conditioning
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: To Vendors and all DMLers... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

9. Re: other Lengend turbos (was Turbo PRV)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

10. DMC Wine..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Voltage problems still
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: PRV Performance (Rick)
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

14. Re: PRV Performance
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Re: Air Conditioning
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: want to regrain stainless
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Brake Fluid DOT 5
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Re: 2006 Chicago Gathering question
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. RE: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: 2006 Chicago Gathering question
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Retrofitting Throttle Enrichment Circuit
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

24. Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

25. Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 14:58:50 -0000
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 2006 Chicago Gathering question



Will there be another Delorean raffled at the 2006 event?








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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 21:13:41 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: 1 Year Anniversary...and a message of hope!


Hey Dave,

I'm a little late in replying, but wanted to throw in my two cents:

I drive my DeLorean every day, all year long, and I make no apologies
for it. It is not my only vehicle, but if I didn't have a family it
would be. So when I'm not with them, I'm in the D. That means every
day to work, on most errands, basically 95% of my driving.

I bought this car from the original owner last year. After replacing
most of the aged parts, the car has been perfectly reliable. 

The only caveat I can give to prospective owners: If you intend to
really enjoy the car or otherwise drive it often, a garage stocked
with the appropriate tools and the ability and desire to do your own
work is a must - or close proximity to an established DeLorean shop.
You can't drop this car off at your local mechanic and expect it back
in one piece. It really is a "If you want it done right, you've got to
do it yourself" way of life. You really do need a high disposable
income in your first year or so of ownership as well. If you can't
come up with $500+ on a whim, either buy a car that's already been
fully updated, or save longer, or have the ability to put the car in
your garage and use alternate transportation. There are a lot of
original parts on many (most?) DeLoreans that are failing or will fail
soon, and until you get them all replaced you have to be prepared
financially and mechanically.

Once you get through most of this stuff, maintenance and reliability
is no different than any other car.

-Ryan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> A year ago today I flew to Albany, NY and purchased my dream car, 
> #5968, and embarked on the 1200 mile maiden voyage drive back home. 
> My DeLorean is my ONLY car, and in the last year I've only had to 
> bum a ride to work from a friend once. She's been almost as 
> dependable as a new car, keeping me mobile for 1 year and almost 
> 12,000 miles--with about 7 "cross-country" drives ranging from 4 to 
> 18 hours each way.





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 22:43:42 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans


It's not quite where reverse is in the Esprit.  There is a lockout
on reverse where you have to lift the shift lever (or pull up on 
a collar on later models) in order to engage reverse.  This could
still be used as long as the translator on the gearbox is changed 
to allow another selection.  The DeLorean shifter is completely
different, with reverse outside of the 1-2 plane.

That said, I haven't heard of anyone in the Lotus community who
has done this conversion, which is probably why the website
is so dated.  Most times, when someone wants a stouter box 
with another ratio, they go with a Hewland.

--
Mike




-------------- Original message from "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>: ----------> Curious, if the 6th gear goes where reverse is, how to you drive 
> backwards?





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 00:37:43 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Question


For those of you that use an Optima battery, could you please reply 
back with the Model # or Part # of the battery for a Delorean, both 
red top and yellow top?

Thanks.


Sandor
#3002






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 00:57:19 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage problems still


Sounds like a ground symptom. Have you checked the gang ground 
connection behind the wooden backboard? It in turn is connected in 
the engine compartment to the ground strap to the frame. If that 
gets loose most of the grounds from inside the car are lost.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > Hey all I am stil having some voltage problems when all the
> accesories are on.. 





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 00:49:27 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning



Last I heard DMCH was still recommending R-12 for there service work.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> I picked up several cans of Freeze 12 at a Flea Market for $3/ea. 
I 
> understand it is compatable with R-12 in the system.  I will not 
convert to 
> 134A.   Drive Stainless    Robert VIN 6924
> 
> 
> 
> From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...>
> Subject: [DML] Air Conditioning
> 
> I assume this will be a relatively simple question to answer as 
most of you 
> have had to do this at some time or another.  My question is, what 
is 
> involved with restoring the air conditioning system.  I'm guessing 
you would 
> have to dispose of the old R12 Freon and switch to 134A, right?








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 00:17:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama


It really pains me to hear that someone damaged your car and other
stuff. It seems like some people don't realize that this is all
private property and you personally have spent a lot of money just so
strangers can enjoy the car at shows. I would suggest you get a
battery master switch and NEVER leave a key in the car in the future.
When I go to shows I take all the little stuff (like the lighter, etc)
and stick it in the vault. Some people are souveneer collectors and
will literally peel things right off the car. At one of our club meets
someone took a shifter knob!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> Okay now everyone I'm Pleased to let you know that My 
> DeLorean Took 1st plase in it's class _at_dml_ the Auto Rama March  
> 4-6.............I had one crazy moment when a mentally challanged person saw my car, jumped over the ropes & franticly tried to start my car





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 20:42:51 -0500
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Re: To Vendors and all DMLers... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!


Just a quick update to the note below.  So far "Evil Dan" has been able 
to generate quite a few VERY NICE donations for this years spring 
social!  You will be surprised to see all the goodies we are cooking up!

Remember, if you would like to donate something Delorean related for the 
event, feel free to contact Dan (info below)

The rest of the details for the spring social can be found on our club 
website:  www.deloreanmidatlantic.com

Come join us for this great event!



Dan Deutsch wrote:

>The Mid-Atlantic Club is once again holding its Annual Spring Social on
>April 16th-17th. This one is going to be a little different than past
>Socials. Not only will the normal inspections and torsion bar adjustments be
>going on, but this time there is going to be a different element of fun
>involved. It's going to include giving away DeLorean related prizes to
>owners who win certain contests......... 
>Anyway, the main purpose of this e-mail is that I would like to extend an
>open invitation to any person(s) or vendor who would like to contribute
>DeLorean related prizes for this event. 





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 03:11:07 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: other Lengend turbos (was Turbo PRV)



Marc and List,

Just to clarify one thing that Marc mentioned, Legend did
build turbo systems for other engines (and other cars, etc.)

I know Legend Industries was developing a turbo system for the 
Fiat Spyder 2000 and in fact one of these cars was sold within
the past few years on ebay.  In a search for Legend Turbo, the
auction for the Fiat Spyder 2000 came up.  I will try to search
through my archives of ebay auction text info to see if I did
save this information.  The Legend info was quite detailed.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> snip <
> 
> Best of my knowledge, the only configurations Legend
> built were the twin turbo (502) and a single turbo
> (528). The single turbo came AFTER the twin turbo in
> an effort to reduce the cost.  Although I have spent
> time looking over 528, I have never heard it run so I
> don't know if it was a stock PRV with turbos bolted
> on, or it was a modified PRV with just the one turbo
> instead of 2.  
> 
> snip <
>








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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2005 18:27:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC Wine..


"Me Too!"

I also wonder how this all came about..  and why?


--- usndmc <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Am I the only one that thinks DMC brand wine is a
> bit silly? Maybe there is some actual story or underlying connection
> from the past in it that makes it less random? 
> 
> Dave
> #5968





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2005 21:43:52 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


Marc,

Do you mean VIN 530? (Instead of 528?).  I wasn't aware that we knew where 
528 is.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063 -->Not a Legend Car, but happily sharing the same build month


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Levy" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 8:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Turbo PRV.


<snip>
> Best of my knowledge, the only configurations Legend
> built were the twin turbo (502) and a single turbo
> (528). The single turbo came AFTER the twin turbo in
> an effort to reduce the cost.  Although I have spent
> time looking over 528, I have never heard it run so I
> don't know if it was a stock PRV with turbos bolted
> on, or it was a modified PRV with just the one turbo
> instead of 2.
> <snip> 






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 23:22:12 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage problems still


 
 Hey Dave i have had the alternator tested by John Hervey after i bought it 
and he fixed a rectifier on it and the battery is good i have had it  tested to.. 
ithe car charges at like fourteen when it is first running.. but it goes down after 
a while and especially if u use the windows or sometimes the fans and 
brakes..etc... i will check the other connections this week..DAve..



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:

> You still have dirty/corroded connections and/or your alternator is
> not putting out rated capacity. Make sure the belt is not slipping and
> have the alternator checked for output. Many shops will test your
> alternator and battery for free. Try Sears.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 03:59:33 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance (Rick)


Bill, Thanks for the warm invite.  I live in Colorado Springs, 
Colorado.  Any Rocky Mountain Clubs? 

 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> Do you live near a club or one of the show venues? Having introduced
> yourself online, you might enjoy meeting owners (and their PRV's) in
> person.





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 03:42:21 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance



Since these engines are no longer used, the problem is the aftermarket
performance bolt on parts. If you have the money to swap to a Chevy
engine-then go for it, because you then have the ability to upgrade
parts, there are stroker kits available for the 350-you get the idea.
All we [PRV owners] can do with the engine (while keeping a stock
look) is replace camshafts, the heads and do some port/polish. You can
go crazy and get thinner liners and get custom pistons to get a
desired compression. We can also try different methods of fuel
delivery-carburetion, EFI, whatever. Ultimately, it will be tough to
get considerable gain in HP without a turbo kit. So you're either
stuck with stock and 130, or you've got up to 190 using DMCH and their
methods, you go with a different engine or you spend the money on a
turbo. BTW, you guys think 6K for a new performance engine for the
DeLorean is bad? You should see how much it is to just buy a
muffler-let alone a new performance engine for a Lamborghini is!
-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 00:24:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning



It seems some people DO read my posts! I meant to say 90, not 80 so
90-70 DOES equal a delta T of 20. In any case you want to see a
temperature differential across the evaporator coil of 20 degrees. It
doesn't matter exactly what the temp going in is as long as the temp
coming out is 20 degrees less. At least as long as it stays above 34
or so. Any lower and the evap coil will freeze up. Easily checked with
a thermometer. If you cannot achieve a 20 degree delta T either a coil
is not getting enough airflow (heat transfer) or you do not have a
correct charge of refrigerent. Other things can also cause a lack of
cooling capacity but these are the most common reasons.


the air going in to the A/C is 80 it should come out around
> 70. You should also hear the compressor cycle often.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 








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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 04:49:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: want to regrain stainless



I use 80# and/or 120# sandpaper. You get different results with the
different grit. The 80# is closer to the factory finish and the 120#
is closer to a "regrained" finish. The problem with the 80# is you
must stay EXACTLY with the grain or you will quickly have scratches
that are not straight. The 120# is a little more forgiving having
smaller scratches. In any case you must try to stay as straight as you
can in your strokes. Use a piece of masking tape as a guide if you
have to. After you use the sandpaper you can go over it with the
blending pad to smooth it down. You may want to do the whole car. When
you use sandpaper or a blending pad you are removing the surface
oxides and the metal will appear to "brighten up". By doing the whole
car it will be a lot more even. After a few days it will "dull down".
Everyone has their favorite methods. Sometimes I use Windex as a
lubricant and to float out the dust and dirt as I use the blending
pad. You will have to wipe and rinse the surface after this anyway. It
creates a very fine, dark, metallic dust. It can be done by hand, it
just takes a long time. Do a panel at a time and try not to use much
pressure on the hood. If you can catch your fingernail on the scratch
you may not be able to sand it out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Hey group,
>  
> Only about a month before my car comes out of winter storage.  In
the meantime I would like to take out a couple scratches in the
stainless.  I have the DMC cleaning kit which comes with the
scotchbrite blending pad and I have used that before but the scratches
i want to get out are a little too deep for it. I saw at PF that DMCH
had a really abrasive p removed]








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 10:13:06 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


Marc Levy wrote:

>As far as specific answers to your questions (sourcing
>parts, and such), My plan would be to rebuild your PRV
>using parts from a Alpine, or maybe even a Venturi. 
>Those pistons/rings/rods/head gaskets all worked well
>with forced induction..  Legend had planned on a
>electronic boost control (I think 502 has this), but
>1860 has a vacuum based control with a threaded rod to
>adjust the waste gate (My guess is this is how they
>dyno-tested the engines).
>

Basically, Legend were ahead of Renault in this endeavour. Renault went 
on to develop the PRV in a turbo application for the Renault 25 Turbo, 
Alpine GTA V6 Turbo (replaced later by the A610) and the Renault 
Safrane, also available as Bi-turbo, but only in France.

These engines are all single turbo, even fire, and EFI with distributed 
electronic ignition (ie it has a distributor but only to distribute the 
spark, nothing else). They use a strange 66/3 trigger wheel that's part 
of the flywheel and is read by a sensor mounted in the bellhousing - 
making the UN1 bellhousings off any of the later Renaults quite sought 
after because they are otherwise identical. The mains and smalls are 
bigger on the crank and the even-fire is achieved by an ofset on each 
small end. The engine does run less smoothly as a result, but some later 
PRV had a balance shaft on the right-hand head. I've never seen one though.

I can only really speak for the 25 turbo engine as I've got one and have 
done some research on it. Marc, the wastegate is always set by a 
threaded rod. Its function is to pre-tension the spring which is 
compressed by a piston fed by air from the intake manifold. When the 
boost reaches a high enough pressure to compress the spring, the 
wastegate opens and exhaust bypasses the turbo. The electronic control 
works by bleeding off air from the wastegate control so that that piston 
"sees" a lower pressure (proportinately) than is in the intake manifold. 
So, basically, a turbo wastegate is always set to its -lowest- boost, 
and then the boost is increased by bleeding air off the wastegate line. 
A PWM valve is used to achieve this, and it works in exactly the same 
way as the frequency valve in the lambda system. The R25 ECU includes a 
speed sense which is used to limit the boost at low speeds because 
otherwise the car, which is front wheel drive, would wheelspin crazily. 
Obviously I'm not doing this on the DeLorean!

I think you may be referrng to a dump-valve (I think you guys call them 
blow-off valves) which is vacuum actuated and will allow the turbo(s) to 
dump their pressure when the throttles close. The Renault lumps all use 
a recirculating dump valve which passes back to the intake side of the 
turbo.

Hope this makes sense!

Martin





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 14:48:43 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Brake Fluid DOT 5



Group, 
I have added DOT 5 brake fluid to the web site. A lot of people I am 
told love it but told me the best time to change over is when your 
up dating the brake system. I also added a link to a study done by a 
group that works with Triumphs to give an un-biased over view. 
I hear good things when it comes to temperature and best of all no 
water absorption.If you search Google under DOT 5 brake fluid you 
can see a lot of good information.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/brakes-rotors.html








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 07:49:18 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: 2006 Chicago Gathering question


According to the last discussion with Ken, he is planning on at least 
one raffle car for 2006.

BOB






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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 10:20:09 -0500
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans


Ummm, I think he means 6th gear would go where reverse 'normally' is (not 
where it is on Deloreans). That would seem logical and functional there.

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> > The place is called Michael's Motorsports. They perform the same work
> > that GTO Racing/Engineering in the UK do. That means they can beef up
> > the trans input shaft, install a Quaife ATB, and shove in a new gear
> > kit that hangs the 6th forward gear right below 5th, where reverse
> > would normally be.
> >
> > http://www.michaelsmotorsports.com/6speedconversion.htm
>
>
>Curious, if the 6th gear goes where reverse is, how to you drive
>backwards?
>
>Jim Reeve
>MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
>DMC6960







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 08:15:33 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 2006 Chicago Gathering question


Yes there will be one more DeLorean Raffled at the event in Chicago.
This will probably be the last car I raffle since it is a lot of work to to  
do.
 
I have two cars that I am working on and I have not decided which one will  
be the raffle car.
That decision will be made by August when we start the promotion for  
registrations.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 13:38:51 -0000
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama


I found that a quick disconnect on the battery is a good idea for
shows like that. I believe that some shows even require it. Definitely
solves the problem with spectators such as that.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_n...> wrote:
 
 I had one crazy moment when a mentally challanged person saw my car, jumped over the ropes & franticly tried to start my car as I grabbed his arm





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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 18:37:55 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Retrofitting Throttle Enrichment Circuit



I'm looking to retrofit a throttle enrichment circuit onto my PRV.  
Does anyone have a schematic of the components and connections?  
Thanks 








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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 16:26:43 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Curious, if the 6th gear goes where reverse is, how to you drive
> backwards?  This is a fascinating procedure, but their webpage for 
the
> conversion was last updated 2 years ago.  Have you called them to
> confirm they are actually doing this and that it will work on the
> DeLorean's transmission? What about cost?
> 
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC6960

I do not know how the new internals work, but I do know that the 
rebuild consists of brand new gear sets, shafts, forks, seals, etc (I 
called last night).

However, the is a nasty downside. There is no syncro-mesh, it just 
uses dog-teeth. And the cost is over $10K. I've no idea if GTO can 
sell the parts directly, and if so, if they'd work in the front-
loader version of the UN-1 that the DeLorean uses, versus the side-
loader version from the Esprit. After all, since I've never cracked 
two open side by side, I've no idea how the shift forks vary, if at 
all, to mate up to the external linkage.

Will they work on the DeLorean trans, probably. I spoke with the guy, 
and told him exactly what the application was for, and what kind of 
motors I was considering mounting to it. And I've got to say that it 
was a positive response. In fact, one of the few I've ever had. But 
he doesn't do the work himself, he ships your core out to GTO 
Engineering in the UK, and they in turn ship rebuilt transmissions 
back. Which does concern me about both warranty work, and getting my 
ring gear installed properly.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 18:41:33 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?



Hi Everyone,

Thanks for all your replies on almost every possible issue.  Even 
though I don't always ask the question, someone does and I get an 
answer (yay). 

Here's my question...As I said before, my Delorean is painted dark 
blue but they didn't do a very good job on the paint.  They seem to 
have used a latex sticky primer that isn't doing much because the 
paint is flaking off the stainless.  I recently tried using a 1750 
psi Pressue Washer to try and get the paint off, but it took too 
much water for just one little spot.  In Colorado, this wouldn't 
look good amidst the last 2 years of drought lol.  Now someone I 
spoke to suggested using up to a 5000 PSI pressure washer to 
possibly get the paint off.  Would this be a good idea?  

If pressure washing doesn't work, would simply using a razor blade 
and gently scraping the paint off hurt the Stainless Steel?  I've 
scraped off a small unnoticeable spot and I can see the pretty SS.  
Many people have suggested having it Soda Blasted or Plastic Bead 
Blasted but the whole point of getting this car was to do it 
myself.  So all the do-it-yourselfers please chime in.  

Since I'm going to probably have to sand the SS down once I get all 
the primer off anyways, using a razor wouldn't hurt it much would 
it?  Since I kept it real flat, it hasn't scratched it at all.  

Thanks for you input,

Brandon
Vin 3323
Denver CO








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