From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2514
Date: Thursday, March 10, 2005 9:36 PM


There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Colorado Club
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

2. Re: Battery Question
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Daytime Running Lights
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. RE: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net

5. Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans
From: "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. Re: Air Conditioning
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Brake Fluid DOT 5
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. RE: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

11. www.delorean.ie updated - frame restoration!
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com

12. transmission
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: want to regrain stainless
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

17. Yellow Top Optima Battery
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. Special thanks to Josh Haldeman and Toby & Misty Peterson
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

19. Whose IL DMC in Fargo, ND?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Michigan Spring Get Together - Detroit Area
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Daytime Running Lights (Type 2?)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 18:26:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Colorado Club


Rick and all other Colorado Owners,


Mr. Dick Ryan recently made mention of a Rockies Club and I am willing to put in the time to help.
Especially now that Deloreans seem to be spring up all over the Rockies!

Dan Haney
Vin - 03254


Rick wrote:


Bill, Thanks for the warm invite.  I live in Colorado Springs, 
Colorado.  Any Rocky Mountain Clubs? 





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 14:51:29 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Question


Most stores I've been to only sell 2 types of red top and 1 type of yellow 
top. All of which should work on the DeLorean. All you need to do is 
confirm that there are side posts on the battery and the positive (red 
post) is on the left side. As for the difference in the two red tops, one 
(model 34/78) has the two posts slightly closer together (doesn't matter on 
the DeLorean) and has greater capacity. I'm currently using the smaller one 
(model 25/75) with no issues.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 12:37 AM 3/9/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>For those of you that use an Optima battery, could you please reply
>back with the Model # or Part # of the battery for a Delorean, both
>red top and yellow top?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Sandor
>#3002






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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 23:59:56 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Daytime Running Lights



Hello List - Most people are aware of all of the studies that have 
shown much higher margins of safety when using some form of daytime 
running lights, such as the regular headlights, or aftermarket 
driving or fog lights.  This becomes especially important when you 
consider that brushed stainless steel has a unique property where it 
tends to take on (and blend in with) the color of its surroundings.  
In the Northwest, this is a very real problem about 7 months out of 
the year (usually - this year has been awesome!)  In any event, one 
of the downsides to using the headlights in the DeLorean is that this 
adds a lot of wear and tear to the headlight main switch, and the 
electrical system in general.

We have just added a solid-state daytime running light module to our 
website (K3000DP) that provides automatic operations with some key 
features:  30% power level to the headlights to provide visibility 
without big power drain and with longer bulb life, 30 second delay 
after engine start to reduce power starvation during engine start, 
automatic disengagement when the normal park lights or headlights are 
turned on, and it uses an independent power source so that the main 
switch is not involved in the operation of the daytime running 
lights.  I have prepared specific instructions for installation in 
the DeLorean.  I just wanted to make everyone aware of this important 
safety-related addition to the DeLorean.  Thanks.

Toby Peterson
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com










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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 19:19:18 -0500
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net
Subject: RE: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?


A razor blade?  You really have more time than money.  I have a painted car (I bought from the original owner who had it painted while it was still at the showroom) and I looked into the process of taking paint off.  The problem is the door jambs and the skim coat of filler that was put on to cover grain in stainless.  The only way to go is to use a chemical remover, final word on that.  Although if you have it soda blasted (I looked into this too) you have to pull all the panel of the car and remove the glass.

So if you have any questions my son is an auto body guy and he could suggest what type of cleaner you need.

By the way he painted my car chrome illusion "Blastberry" as you walk around the car it changes color from sft gold to purple.  When the club pulls into a stop the gawkers always head for my car first.  I tell them that all DeLoreans looked like mine and the others in the group the paint just peeled off ;-)

Jim Sawyer vin 4149



"brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>
>Here's my question...As I said before, my Delorean is painted dark 
>blue but they didn't do a very good job on the paint.....  So all the do-it-yourselfers please chime in.  





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 00:40:13 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 1st Place De Lorean _at_dml_ Auto Rama


I had the pleasure of attending the show this weekend, meeting 
Lawrence face-to-face and seeing his car first-hand.  It was an 
incredible sight, the crowds around his Delorean were huge and the 
car looked absolutely fantastic.  I would say that there were more 
people looking at the Delorean than nearly any other vehicle.

For the time I was there, a lot of people asked Lawrence questions; 
its nice to see the very positive reaction to our vehicle of choice.  
Great job Lawrence, and sorry to hear about the incident.


Sandor
# 3002


...As to 
> the croweds of spectators , there were so many The show 
> posted a guard by my display, 








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 19:49:11 -0600
From: "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: PRV Performance / 6 Speed trans


Ok, here's my 2 cents on the issue.  I too have seen posts saying "the PRV
can make 600-1000 hp in different configurations' here and there over the
years on the list.  After lots of research, I opted for the engine/tranny
swap.  (Chevy 4.3 mated to a Porsche 915 5 speed tranny)  The reason why is
because even if you do get the engine up to making any DECENT horsepower,
you STILL have a stock tranny in place.  Even if you upgrade the tranny
input shaft, if you're talkin about as little as 300 hp (which I haven't
heard of yet out of a stock Delorean motor) the tranny won't hold up long.

Until you can find someone to make the tranny, auto or 5 speed, pretty much
bullet proof, all the extra power the engine can make will be a mute point.
Now, apparently there are swaps and different configurations out there to
get the HP up for the motor but has anyone done the research on building the
trannys strong enough to hold it?  The focus has always been on the motor
and not the tranny and that, IMHO, is where the real problem is.


Duke



 If the building a *replica* Legend engine is cost
> prohibitive, I'd just like to know why? And if there is a modest way
> of gaining power out of the engine, I'd like to know how.
>
> No, I don't expect to hit the high 11's on the quartermile.







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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:17:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning



Depending on the tempertures and pressures that can be normal.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> 
> 
> >You should also hear the compressor cycle often
> 
> Thanks, Dave.    Every 6 seconds?  That seems too frequent - is it?
> 
> ..................LP
> 10440








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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:15:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.



Dump valves (over here we call them blow-off valves) would seem to be
a necessary part of any complete turbo system. There is a thing called
turbo overboost, sort of the opposite of turbo lag where if you
release the throttle at high speeds quickly you can overshoot the
limit on your boost momentaraly and overboost the motor. The blow-off
valve is basically a pressure relief valve set slightly higher than
the boost controller so if the boost should exceed the control's limit
the blow-off valve releases the excess boost pressure. I am guessing
it has not been offered because of cost. IMHO it may be good
insurance, especially if a boost control or a wastegate should stick.
Boost valves can be either a simple pressure relief valve or it can be
controled by a line monitoring the boost pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Marc Levy wrote:
> 
> >As far as specific answers to your questions (sourcing
> >parts, and such), My plan would be to rebuild your PRV
> >using parts from a Alpine, or maybe even a Venturi. 
> >Those pistons/rings/rods/head gaskets all worked well
> >with forced induction..  Legend had planned on a
>








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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:33:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid DOT 5


Dot 5 is slightly compressable because of the air that gets entrapped
in the fluid. On some cars it becomes an issue because of limited
brake pedal travel. On other cars the brakes have a lot of hoses and
the pedal is already spongy (like Deloreans). My recomnedation for
those considering converting to DOT 5 would be to replace the 4 hoses
with the braided metal ones. BTW you are not supposed to just drain
the old fluid out and dump the DOT 5 in. To do it properly you are
supposed to disassemble the system, flush with alcohol, and replace
the seals. Something best done at the time you rebuild a brake system.
Water is not dissolvable on DOT 5. If you do get moisture in it it
balls up, goes to the lowest point and rots the insides. It is best
used on a system that is COMPLETLY cleaned and there is NO water
present. It has become a very attractive alternative on many older
cars but you CANNOT mix it with any other fluid. You should replace
the sticker on the car with another saying to ONLY USE DOT 5. I do not
know how the rubber compounds used in the seals will react long-term
and if you will have to flush every 2 years or not. As good as DOT 5
is it doesn't seem too popular among the users of British cars. BTW
DOT 5 has a MUCH higher boiling point than DOT 4 so it should be a
much better fluid for any braking system. It does not absorb moisture
and that is what lowers the boiling point on other brake fluids. Keep
it away from anyplace you plan to do painting. Silicone contamination
is very insidious and difficult to get rid of. On the plus side if you
have a brake leak it won't melt the paint!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 22:00:54 -0500
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: RE: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?


Brandon:
 
Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm
 
I have a red Delorean (not painted by me) and had several e-mail conversations with this guy about paint removal.  Per his suggestion, I tried the Aircraft Paint Removal on a spare chevy fender and it worked great.  Just make sure you do a panel at a time and do it quick.  Another thing, if you want to do it right, REMOVE the panels because the stuff eats away at any rubber surface.  Once you remove the panel to remove the paint, it will all make it easier to regrain the panels as well.  I also tried the Aircraft remover then pressure washed it off.  Work great but all the paint that is removed end up all over you so I would not suggest it.  If you are going to bring the Delo back to it's stainless life, take your time and do it right.  Also, make sure that you place the car or panels over an area that you do not care about because once the paint hits the ground, it stains concrete and most floor surfaces.
 
Good Luck!
 
Jason



	-----Original Message----- 
	From: brandelorean [mailto:brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
	Subject: [DML] Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:51:08 -0000
From: dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: www.delorean.ie updated - frame restoration!



Hi lads,

Just to let you know I updated the website of the DeLorean Owners in
Ireland at http://www.delorean.ie

Check out the technical section to see what's been done so far in my
frame restoration! (Just stripped at the moment - but lots of pics of
the frame removal process).

Thanks,
John Dore, Ireland.
Vin 3810









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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 05:24:21 -0000
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: transmission



I have a manual transmission but have heard that the best hpower to 
weight ratio is the mazda twin turbo engine, both light weight and 
high hp, but am wanting to have info about transmission so I can 
have "adapter" made.

any help would be appreciated..

thanks group.

ALSO ANY D OWNERS IN NEW MEXICO?   

Rodney
RIO RANCHO, NM
#3300








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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 06:20:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


Nope, I meant 528.  The owner of 528 had it in Pigeon
Forge (it was next to mine near the stage in Saturday
night).  He wants to sell it.

Considering there were 3 Legend turbo cars within 5
feet of each other that night, I am surprised more
people did not spent more time looking at them and
comparing them.

For one thing, I thought it was cool that 528 had all
of the same modifications to the body of the car that
502 had, but they had been covered up when the engine
was replaced with the single turbo.   Who knows?  the
engine in 1860 may have come from 528 at one point!

There still is at least one missing "Legend car".


--- Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Marc,
> 
> Do you mean VIN 530? (Instead of 528?).  I wasn't
> aware that we knew where 528 is.





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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 06:28:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


With the engine running, remove the oil filler.  Do
you see smoke comming out of it?

--- Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> My car has the 'Island" turbo setup, and has had it
> since 9K mi., it now has 52K. It has never had a
> turbo related problem. I love the added performance.
> This is the way the car should have been.
>  
> Chris 
> 6301





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 06:41:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?


Hey Brandon,
 
You have the right idea but they make a tool to hold the razor blade it has 
a handle like a screwdriver and a plate with a little screw to hold the blade
at the right angle, you should be able to pick one up at a body shop supply
place. I used one last summer on the hood of my 55 chevy and it worked great.
oh and buy a box of blades, it took about 5 just to do my hood.
 
Jamie Hamlin
Ft. Walton Beach, Fl.
vin# 2606 (destroyed in hurricane Ivan)



brandelorean <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi Everyone,
Here's my question...As I said before, my Delorean is painted dark 
blue but they didn't do a very good job on the paint.... So all the do-it-yourselfers please chime in. 





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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:47:24 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: want to regrain stainless


Hi Andy.

One thing I recommend that nobody seems to think about is breathing 
protection.  Metal dust is not good for you, particularly stainless 
steel, which contains chromium and nickel.  

I've done my whole car too.  I had the luxury of having all the trim 
parts removed.  It made it easy.  I would recommmend removing the 
fascia, and removing the trim above the windshield and anything else 
in the way, if it doesn't seem to difficult for you.  On the other 
hand, you might just choose to be careful near the boundaries, and 
leave all that stuff attached.

I exercised extreme caution on the hood, and still ended up with 
the "x".  

Have fun.  It'll look great.

Rick Gendreau 11472.







--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Hey group,
>  
> Only about a month before my car comes out of winter storage.  In 
the meantime I would like to take out a couple scratches in the 
stainless. 





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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 09:45:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Yellow Top Optima Battery


Sandor wrote:

"For those of you that use an Optima battery, could you please reply 
back with the Model # or Part # of the battery for a Delorean, both 
red top and yellow top?"

Mine has the following

Part # 8014-045
Model # 34/78 -950






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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 14:08:36 -0600
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Special thanks to Josh Haldeman and Toby & Misty Peterson


I would like to publicly thank Josh Haldeman and Toby & Misty Peterson for all of their efforts they have given me in the past few months.  They all bend over backwards to help you out and keep in touch until any issues are resolved.  They are indeed an asset to the Delorean Community.  Thanks guys!

Jason Judt
VIN 3488
"TYM FLYZ"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 13:56:41 -0500
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Whose IL DMC in Fargo, ND?


Group,
 
My friend just saw a DeLorean going down Main Ave in Fargo, ND on Wednesday.  It had black side stripes and an Illinois license plate.  Anyone know who the owner was?
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 13:27:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Michigan Spring Get Together - Detroit Area


To all interested, 

MI Spring Get Together
Saturday April 2, 2005
11am

...for those who MapQuest or MapsGoogle: 
Panera Bread
26580 Ford Rd, 
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
(Between N. Beech Daly Rd & N. Inkster Rd.).
Meet in the parking lot in front of Panera Bread (located in a strip mall) 

Nothing formal or structured. Currently just 8 interested owners who want to get
together.
We will meet there, gab about DeLoreans, compare cars & customizations, grab some
lunch (doesn't have to be Panera, plenty of other options around). After lunch we
can continue to do what ever, go for a nice curvy drive nearby or off to Jame's
place for an impromptu tech session.

Note to the DCOers... MI is really close to Ohio, (hint hint, wink wink).

Shannon Y
16506


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 22:42:37 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Daytime Running Lights (Type 2?)



Toby and others,

I was thinking of doing a similar project, but now that you have
done a lot of the leg work, maybe you can run with my idea as a
"Type 2" option for your DRL's.  My idea would allow use of DRL's
while keeping black-out headlight covers in place.

My idea was to use high output amber LED's inside the front turn
signal housings, using either in the stock bulb housing / wiring
or adding another dedicated socket and wiring to the OEM housing,
either to the side or above/below the stock socket.

I do like the look of the newer DRL's on the C5 Corvettes that
use some type of high output amber light at the corners in front.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> snip < 
> 
> We have just added a solid-state daytime running light module to 
our 
> website (K3000DP) that provides automatic operations with some key 
> features:  30% power level to the headlights to provide visibility 
> without big power drain and with longer bulb life, 30 second delay 
> after engine start to reduce power starvation during engine start, 
> automatic disengagement when the normal park lights or headlights 
are 
> turned on, and it uses an independent power source so that the 
main 
> switch is not involved in the operation of the daytime running 
> lights.  I have prepared specific instructions for installation in 
> the DeLorean.  I just wanted to make everyone aware of this 
important 
> safety-related addition to the DeLorean.  Thanks.
> 
> Toby Peterson
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com








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