From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2515
Date: Friday, March 11, 2005 9:06 PM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Daytime Running Lights (Type 2?)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. delorean brake pads - rear and front
From: "smileksr" <michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Air Conditioning
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

5. Re: Michigan Spring Get Together - Detroit Area
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Re: Brake Fluid DOT 5
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

8. April 30 show in Floridia..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: April 30 show in Floridia..
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

12. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

16. Getting Ready to Buy
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

17. Re: April 30 show in Floridia..
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

18. New DeLorean Articles?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

19. Re: transmission
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

20. Fuel System Advice
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

21. Re: Started my frame-off restoration!
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

22. Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean.
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 23:48:44 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Daytime Running Lights (Type 2?)



Rich - Your idea is great.  I know that the Wings-A-Light Daytime 
Running Light module can be used to power any light source desired, 
including aftermarket driving or fog lights, so there is no reason 
why it wouldn't work just fine with LED's.  It would need some 
investigation to see if adding an LED to the existing housing, but 
off to the side, would work based on the focus points that the 
housing is designed for.  One issue would be the reduced power level 
output from the module - LED's are sensitive to voltage input.  All 
that would be necessary to resolve that would be to have the module 
trigger a relay that would then actually power the LED.  In any 
event, this sort of derivative can be quickly implemented.  Thanks 
for the input.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC-Home of Wings-A-Loft and Wings-A-Light
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> I was thinking of doing a similar project, but now that you have
> done a lot of the leg work, maybe you can run with my idea as a
> "Type 2" option for your DRL's.  My idea would allow use of DRL's
> while keeping black-out headlight covers in place.
> 
> My idea was to use high output amber LED's inside the front turn
> signal housings, using either in the stock bulb housing / wiring
> or adding another dedicated socket and wiring to the OEM housing,
> either to the side or above/below the stock socket.
> 
> I do like the look of the newer DRL's on the C5 Corvettes that
> use some type of high output amber light at the corners in front.









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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 00:14:49 -0000
From: "smileksr" <michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: delorean brake pads - rear and front



Hi,
I recently sold my Delorean #6583 on ebay, and off it went to 
Australia!  Believe it or not, the guy says he's going to convert it 
to right hand drive.  Says the law requires it.  He'll send me 
pictures of the conversion, and I'll post them to the photos section 
of this group.  I'll believe it when I see it!

Anyway, I'm stuck with a brand new complete set of brake pads (front 
and rear only, no parking brake pads), ordered from PJ Grady and 
never opened.  The front pads include long pins with springs on the 
pins, and cotter pins, as well as shims with self-adhesive backing.  
The rear pads include long pins and cotter pins and these spring-
like pieces.  Anyway, I never got around to installing them.  

I think I paid maybe $70 total without shipping, but will sell for 
$40, plus $5 for shipping in the USA.

If no interest here, will try ebay.  FIRST COME FIRST SERVE!

Call at 413-306-4220 or email michaelbarth_at_dml_hotmail.com

Thanks!!   








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:17:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean...any suggestions?


Hi Brandon.  Here's a link to a guy who successfully
stripped his painted D using chemical stripper.

http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm


Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 17:23:45 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Air Conditioning



> Depending on the tempertures and pressures that can be normal.
>>  Every 6 seconds?  That seems too frequent - is it?

 

Thanks, Dave.    Problem fixed, my D gets comfortably cold now.  

Took it to the guys at BrakeMasters who've worked on my cars for 
years and are always great to me.  For a chain, this one particular 
store knows me and loves when I roll in driving something that isn't 
in their database ;)

The problem, as I suspected from the 6-second cycle of the 
compressor, was that there was almost no refrigerant.  Where it 
went, I have no clue because there don't seem to be any leaks.   
They tightened this and tweaked that and I get a 40 degree drop 
with R12. The other problem was that when EuroSvc charged it last 
year "they didn't vacuum out the moisture so the system wouldn't 
get cool enough."  I'm just quoting all this  since I admit I know 
absolutely nothing about auto A/C.  I've never cared if my A/C 
worked or not, but in this little low-to-the-ground car with limited 
windows it suddenly seems important for a desert summer.  By the 
time EuroSvc got to my A/C they were pretty fed up with working on 
the D.  They crank out Mercedes for a tidy profit but having to go to 
school on the D was more of a burden than a pleasure for them I 
think.  

.........................LP
10440











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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 03:53:56 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Michigan Spring Get Together - Detroit Area



Shannon,

Definitely count me in (if the weather is nice, I can't wait for 
Spring!).  I actually used to live in Dearborn Heights, I am 
currently living in Northville which is very close.  I imagine the 
nice curvy drive will be down Hines Drive, which is a great road for 
cruising.


Sandor
# 3002


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> To all interested, 
> 
> MI Spring Get Together
> Saturday April 2, 2005
> 11am
> 
> ...for those who MapQuest or MapsGoogle: 
> Panera Bread
> 26580 Ford Rd, 
> Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
> (Between N. Beech Daly Rd & N. Inkster Rd.).
> Meet in the parking lot in front of Panera Bread (located in a 
strip mall) 









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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 20:47:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


If the turbo is BEFORE the throttle body, how could
you overboost when you take your foot off the
throttle?

--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dump valves (over here we call them blow-off valves)
> would seem to be
> a necessary part of any complete turbo system. There
> is a thing called
> turbo overboost, sort of the opposite of turbo lag
> where if you
> release the throttle at high speeds quickly you can
> overshoot the
> limit on your boost momentaraly and overboost the
> motor. The blow-off
<SNIP>






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 20:48:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake Fluid DOT 5


I second David T's comments about being sure the old DOT 4 fluid is
drained before installing DOT 5.  That's a good practice for changing 
old DOT 4 to new DOT 4 as well as 4 to 5 but even more important with
conversion to DOT 5.  

I had not considered the flushing with alcohol but did drain lines,
remove & drain wheel cylinders (to get rid of trapped old fluid), then
flushed until the color change to DOT 5 was apparent.  I plan to do
another flush in 6 months or less (may be overkill but what's $20 for
new fluid and an hour's time).

I also plan to do the flex line replacement prior to the next flush,
not only for firm brake response but also to eliminate easy-to-replace
23 year old parts.

Woody






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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 05:40:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: April 30 show in Floridia..


Does anyone have a cost estimate on this show?

http://www.celebrationexoticcars.com/


"Black tie dinner"?  Your telling me these people get
dressed up in tuxedo's for a car show?

A suit is one thing, but this DeLorean owner does not
own a tux.  :(






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:02:38 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


Hi David

I'm afraid you're barking up the wrong tree here. Either that, or I've 
misunderstood how my engine works :-) What you're describing is a safety 
device to control overpressure. Not sure what it'd be called but I know 
that the one on my Turbo-diesel everyday car is also controlled by the ECU.

A "proper" turbo'd engine blows -through- the throttle(s). This means 
that when the throttles are closed, the turbo is suddenly pushing 
against an enclosed space. At the same time the throttles are closed, 
you get vacuum in the manifold, and this is connected to the dump valve 
(blow-off valve) which uses the vacuum to open a port on the turbo 
outlet and either lets the air excape in to the air, making that typical 
"Pshhhhh!" or the better way of doing it  (and more correct especially 
on an air-mass metered engine) is to plumb the dump valve outlet back to 
the inlet of the turbo. This is called a recirculating dump valve.

In the case of both the BAE and Island turbo kits, they suck from the 
throttles, so when the throttles close, the turbo is evacuated rather 
than pressurised which is not how they are designed and will eventually 
blow seals.

Hope this makes sense!

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>
>Dump valves (over here we call them blow-off valves) would seem to be
>a necessary part of any complete turbo system. There is a thing called
>turbo overboost, sort of the opposite of turbo lag where if you
>release the throttle at high speeds quickly you can overshoot the
>limit on your boost momentaraly and overboost the motor. The blow-off
>valve is basically a pressure relief valve set slightly higher than
>the boost controller so if the boost should exceed the control's limit
>the blow-off valve releases the excess boost pressure. I am guessing
>it has not been offered because of cost. IMHO it may be good
>insurance, especially if a boost control or a wastegate should stick.
>Boost valves can be either a simple pressure relief valve or it can be
>controled by a line monitoring the boost pressure.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>  
>






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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 18:43:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


We have had this conversation. NO there is no smoke. You can put your hand on it and feel nothing, no pulse. Try reading responses.

Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

With the engine running, remove the oil filler. Do
you see smoke comming out of it?

--- Chris Shepherd wrote:

> My car has the 'Island" turbo setup, and has had it
> since 9K mi., it now has 52K. It has never had a
> turbo related problem. I love the added performance.
> This is the way the car should have been.
> 
> Chris 
> 6301





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:32:30 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: April 30 show in Floridia..


"A suit is one thing, but this DeLorean owner does not own a tux.  :("

AMEN


Steve
#2700



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Levy" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: [DML] April 30 show in Floridia..
>
> Does anyone have a cost estimate on this show?
>
> http://www.celebrationexoticcars.com/
>
>
> "Black tie dinner"?  Your telling me these people get
> dressed up in tuxedo's for a car show?
>
> A suit is one thing, but this DeLorean owner does not
> own a tux.  :(





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 17:42:56 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.


Hey Marc, Martin spoke of this quite well in post #50134 but I'll
reiterate it here for a direct response to your post.

The Island and BAE turbo setups for the DeLorean have the turbo AFTER
the throttle body.  You must be looking at your Legend engine too
much!  They (Legend) did it correctly placing the turbos before the
throttle.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> If the turbo is BEFORE the throttle body, how could
> you overboost when you take your foot off the
> throttle?





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 18:37:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.



I have to admit I never actually measured this. It could be that it
isn't that big a problem on a Delorean since the turbos are rather
small and would respond quickly. It is still possible though. There
are decel poppet valves on the throttle plates that allow air to pass
even with the throttle plates closed. In any case a blow-off valve
(recirc or not) could only be a further safety item especially if
something happened to the boost control or wastegate. I see no
downside to the installation of a blow-off valve except the cost. I do
not like the recirculating type, they can increase the temperature of
the incoming air charge, better to just dump it. I think the recirc is
used because it is quieter. Because of the known history of engines
damaged by overboost, installation of a blow-off valve can only be
considered insurance against damaging the pistons. BTW the scenario
you call up about running the turbos negative IS hard on the seals in
the turbos and I think is one of the causes of failure. They are not
meant to be subjected to negative pressure. A dashpot on the throttle
linkage to allow the throttle to pass a little air for a second may
also be a good idea. These are just a few of my ideas to improve on
the origional turbo install. I have yet to try them. If you were to
develop a leak on the hoses that control the boost and open the
wastegate you lose all boost control and can overboost the engine. A
blow-off valve will be the only thing that would save the motor. This
system is completely mechanical and can stick or leak. It won't take
much to cause damage. By time you hear the pinging noise it will all
be over. I believe this is why many turbo cars have a lot of positive
pressure in the crankcase. Ask Mark, he has been checking this. There
is some reason why the PRV motors are getting overboosted. They all
can't be set too high, it has to be a momentary condition.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Hi David
> 
> I'm afraid you're barking up the wrong tree here. Either that, or I've 
> misunderstood how my engine works :-) What you're describing is a
safety 
> device to control overpressure. Not sure what it'd be called but I know 
> that the one on my Turbo-diesel everyday car is also controlled by
the ECU.
> 
> A








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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 13:16:48 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


Martin has the most correct explanation of the function and purpose of a 
BOV. It *is* a safety device, but it provides safety primarily for the turbo 
components in a blow-through installation where the throttle plates can snap 
shut and present a sudden and formidable barrier to the air flow from the 
turbo compressor. That air wants to go somewhere, and assuming there is no 
BOV when it can't get past the throttle it circulates around in the 
compressor housing, and can even back up through the air inlet tract. That 
actually imparts a shock to the turbo components and shortens their life. It 
also slows down the compressor considerably which leads to the performance 
reason for installing a BOV: to prevent the turbo from slowing considerably 
during shifts, which in turn requires  more of a spool-up after the shift. 
(Turbo lag on every shift.) Martin is also correct that for performance 
reasons it is better to recirculate that air through the compressor than to 
woosh it out to atmosphere.

Martin is correct that in a suck through design such as the BAE, no BOV is 
necessary. (Or desireable)

David is correct that a BOV is desireable in a blow-through design.  It is 
not a motor safety device per se. The reason it is normally adjusted to blow 
off at higher than the boost setting of the wastegate is because you 
normally don't want that thing venting your precious boost to atmosphere, so 
you set it where the only time it does so is when pressures rise suddenly - 
and potentially harmfully - as happens when those throttles snap shut.

Overboost is most often due to a wastegate that is sticky, defective, or has 
too small a vent for the exhaust gases, that is, was improperly sized for 
the turbo.

A well-designed turbo installation should probably have some additional 
safety device other than the wastegate. This might include fuel and/or 
ignition shutdown devices should boost rise too high.
(Maybe there's another "Gullwing" article brewing here!)

-Joe Kuchan


>Hi David
>
>I'm afraid you're barking up the wrong tree here. Either that, or I've
>misunderstood how my engine works :-)

>Martin





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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:23:37 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


There are a couple of ways to control boost pressure in a turbo system.

The most common way to prevent overboost in a throttle open condition
on older turbo systems is a wastegate.  A wastegate is a valve in the exhaust 
stream before the exhaust gasses reach the turbo.  This valve opens and diverts 
exhaust away from the turbo, slowing the turbo vanes.  Typical ways to actuate
the wastegate is to bleed a little turbo pressure to a spring loaded diaphragm
in the wastegate.  As turbo pressure builds, the bleed air pushes on the 
diaphragm and moves the wastegate valve.  This reduces the exhaust gas
pressure on the turbo vanes, slowing the turbo and limiting the boost.  
Wastegates can also be electrically actuated.

Another option is a dump valve.  A dump valve is a spring loaded diaphragm
on the output side of the turbo.  The spring preloads the daiphragm to a 
specific pressure over atmospheric.  If the boost pressure rises above the
preload, the valve opens and vents boost to the atmosphere.  They are 
non-adjustable and are usually used in conjuction with wastegates.  The
wastegate will typically open before the dump valve, because it is more
driveable to slowly limit boost than to just vent the turbo output to the
engine compartment.  So why have a dump valve?  As Martin notes 
below, most turbo systems blow through the throttle plates.  When 
the throttle plates are closed quickly, such as when you shift or when 
you brake, there is a reflected wave of air that is sent back through the
intake system to the turbo impellor.  This wave of air can be dense 
enough and fast enough to actually damage the impellor vanes.  This 
extra pressure will also slow the turbo impellor down, adding to turbo
lag.  Since you are no longer accelerating, it is reasonable to vent the 
excess pressure suddenly.  This protects the vanes and allows the 
turbo to keep spinning.

A blow-off valve is similar to a dump-valve in that it vents turbo boost
out of the intake.  The difference is that a blow-off valve is usually adjustable
so you can vary the maximum boost, and it is more progressive in it's
action.  It will also use other control mechanisms (vacuum, boost pressure,
ECU signal, etc) to determine when to actuate.  

--
Mike





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:02:16 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Getting Ready to Buy



Hello.  I am from Uxbridge, MA, 40 years old, married, two kids, and 
ready to take my plunge into mid-life crisis.  What better way is 
there to do this than to buy a Delorean!  I have been looking 
through the ads for about 7 years now, and will be prepared to buy 
my own within the next couple of months.

I had a couple of questions.  Does anyone know how the insurance 
situation is in MA for Deloreans? My current auto insurance is with 
Amica.  How much of a battle is there to get good and affordable 
coverage?  Should I simply choose a known "Delorean friendly" 
carrier in my area, and if there are some, any contacts?

Also, if I buy from someone, is it easy to get the title for the 
car, and from where - DMV?

Last question, do I venture driving the car several hundred miles 
home from possible points of purchase, or use someone like 
Dependable Auto Shippers to get it back home?

Thanks for any feedback.  I appreciate it.

Paul








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:05:26 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: April 30 show in Floridia..



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a cost estimate on this show?
> 
> http://www.celebrationexoticcars.com/
> 
> 
> "Black tie dinner"?  Your telling me these people get
> dressed up in tuxedo's for a car show?
> 
> A suit is one thing, but this DeLorean owner does not
> own a tux.  :(


Mark, 

You might not as a Delorean owner dress up in a tux but the guy who 
owns the Enzo does as do the poeple who own the Bentleys and Rolls 
etc that are there.  I attended this show last year and frankly, 
while I love my D, we are the low one on the food chain at this show.

As far as cost, you mean to put on the whole show?  DUnno.  To attend 
everything...listed on the site.

Michael Q








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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:17:05 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: New DeLorean Articles?



Does anyone here subscribe to these magazines?

http://www.motorbase.com/vehicle/by-id/-539919683/bibliography.ehtml

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:15:57 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: transmission


What exactly is it that you're wanting to know about the UN-1? 'Cause
there isn't exactly anything that can be written into a post like this
that would enable you to make a custom bellhousing.

Compatability wise, I've only seen one old ad from several years ago,
where someone installed a rotary engine into a DeLorean that *might*
have entailed them mating it up to the stock trans. Jim's old car used
a Porsche transaxle.

Power wise, the UN-1 can handle a fair amount of power, with only a
couple of minimal upgrades nessisary if you insist upon consistantly
dumping the clutch _at_dml_ 6K RPMs.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a manual transmission but have heard that the best hpower to 
> weight ratio is the mazda twin turbo engine, both light weight and 
> high hp, but am wanting to have info about transmission so I can 
> have "adapter" made.





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:27:03 -0500
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Fuel System Advice


List:

It looks like a may be purchasing a Delorean that has been used on a very minimal basis over the past 10-15 years (as noticed with the 1992 inspection sticker).  The biggest concern I have (of many) is the condition of the fuel system.  I plan to completely update the tank, new pump, boots, filters, baffle update, new rubber feed/return hoses in tank, accumulator, and a complete tank scrub-down with acetone.  Am I taking enough precautions, or should I go as far as have the distributor professionally cleaned, and replace all of the injection lines in the engine compartment.  If I do purchase this car I want to be sure to get off on the right foot, thanks for the advice.

Todd


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 21:26:27 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Started my frame-off restoration!



John and others,

After looking back through the discussion on the Delorean frame
refurbishing topic, I realized I forgot to answer one of your
questions from your posting.  This was the question about how
to protect the "very hard to reach" enclosed frame areas.
While it is hardly a DWC trade secret, most folks do not think
about using a common product (POR15) in "less standard" way.

POR15 can be sprayed as well as brushed on and with the repaired
enclosed sections of the frames, POR15 is prepared in the same
manner as it would be for spray applications and a "Hudson" tank
sprayer and wand is used to get into the hard to reach areas.
Hudson is a brand name here in the States for a hand pump tank
sprayer unit, similar to the power brake bleeder tank systems.
A wand is used (such as for wood deck, water sealer application)
but this is usually a one frame, one use, disposable method.

Yes, this does mean that you may have to drill a few extra holes
in either the existing frame or the repair sections, but it does
work quite well and the extra holes do help visually inspect the
areas that you will be coating, to insure full inside coverage.

I would still recommend this process over galvanizing, but I also
would like to make clear that the galvanized frame that did warp
slightly is more "tweaked" from heat and not a substantial warp.
That aside, the less heat you apply to the frame, the better.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmcjohn_at_dml_h... wrote:
> 
> snip <
> 
> What do you do with DeLorean frames when restoring them at your 
> DeLorean Welding Center (DWC)? How do you stop and/or repair rust 
in 
> the impossible to reach areas without using a dipping process?
> 
> Thanks,
> John









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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 23:21:56 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean.



Sacrilage huh? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder you know.

Know what Imron or JetGlo is? They're one of several acrylic or
polyurethane based paints used for aircraft. Last I checked a Delorean
doesn't have to worry about rain erosion at 500 knots so the stripper
for these should remove just about any automotive finish. Check with
the manufacturers or any aircraft paint shop and see what they say.
Just pray the stuff for taking these finishes off is cheaper than
putting them on. 

You can also use something like EnviroStrip, a blast media (I think
it's wheat or corn starch) commonly used in the aerospace sector. It's
messy and you need the equipment but either of these methods should
beat a razor blade any day of the week.








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