From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2517
Date: Sunday, March 13, 2005 7:37 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean.
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Colorado Club
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Roof Rust
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Getting Ready to Buy
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: April 30 exotic car show in Celebration Florida..
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

6. Re: Re: Fuel System Advice
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Front Coil Spring Removal
From: "jstnrvs" <jreaves_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. RE: Getting Ready to Buy
From: "darryl" <dtinnerstet_at_dml_centurytel.net>

9. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Re: Getting Ready to Buy
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Getting Ready to Buy
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: Re: April 30 show in Floridia..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Getting Ready to Buy and a very important fact
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. Removing old fuel hoses?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

16. Re: Re: Turbo PRV.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

19. Johnny Carson Delorean For Sale
From: "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: transmission.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

22. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Millennium Concours update and additional details
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

24. The FV
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

25. color of the rims
From: "Peter Brickwede" <Bricki_at_dml_web.de>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 18:42:51 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Removing the sacrilage from my Delorean.


Hey Guys,

Thanks for your advice.  Hey Deer Hunter, what grit sandpaper flapper 
wheel do you use to regrain the SS?  That information would really be 
helpful.  

As for the aircraft stripper, I personally wouldn't mind doing it but 
the problem is the fact that the car is in my father's garage and he 
is very picky when it comes to staining the floors.  There is also a 
bunch of crap that is constantly being moved around the vehicle so we 
really don't have much room to remove all of the panels.  And for 
well-ventilated, well it's also not that as well.

As for my razor blade idea, it's only taken me about 2 minutes to get 
1/4 of a panel done and it took little effort.  I'll be sure to take 
some pictures so you guys can laugh at me all you want :)  The razor 
blade gets it down to the primer without scratching through at all.  
The paint is so crappy it practically falls off when I push forward 
on the razor.  Once the primer is all that's left, I should be able 
to use the sandpaper to get it back down to the SS right?

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323
Denver CO




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "deer_hunter1971" 
<deer_hunter1971_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Aircraft Stripper is a great chemical stripper. You'll want to 
use bondo spreaders to remove the paint that peels up, and be sure to 
> wear coveralls, or clothes you don't mind getting all messed up, 
> because you're bound to get them that way.





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:00:04 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Colorado Club


Hey Dan,

My car is currently down in the Springs.  I live in Denver but my dad 
and I are working on the car in his garage.  He's in the Old Farm 
area off Austin Bluffs.  Matt is also up in Denver with me as well.  
I'd definitely like to help out with a Rockies Club!

Thanks,

Brandon 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> Rick and all other Colorado Owners,
> 
> 
> Mr. Dick Ryan recently made mention of a Rockies Club and I am 
willing to put in the time to help.





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:25:28 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Roof Rust



Hi Everyone,

I recently pulled off the SS T Panel in order to take the doors off 
and found what I suspected......RUST!  Sadly, this gives me a bit of 
beef with JD because this part is where I'd think rust would mostly 
occur (if proper sealing wasn't done).  The track that holds the door 
wiring is pretty rusted as well as one hing that holds onto that 
support.  Luckily all the other hinges have no rust at all...phew.  
As for the many completely rusted screws, yes I said screws instead 
of bolts which would have been a ton better, we've had to drill them 
all out and are going to replace them with good non-rusting bolts.  

So mainly, I was wondering if anyone has one of these roof support 
panels available?  I also need a drivers side door hing (right side 
not the one with the hex torsion bar holder).  If anyone has any of 
these items laying around, please let me know.

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323
Denver CO      








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 11:39:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Buy


Let me save you from making a "huge setback" mistake
like I did.

Travel.  If you're looking at buying one of these cars
- driving out to see it or even flying out shouldn't
be but a flutter of your eyes.  I would drive out with
another DeLorean owner and have them thoroughly
inspect everything.  One of my friends spent over 4
hours just looking, climbing, crawling, and twisting
their body in every angle imgaginable to make sure the
car was worth the money.  Get the VIN #, and ask all
DeLorean vendors if they've done any work on the car
or know any history about the car in question. 
Whatever you end up paying, have another $1000-$3000
ready for anything you don't expect.

Insurance.  I have USAA - they didn't stutter once
over the phone.  Under 5 minutes and it was done.  I
went to my local tax collector to get my title - took
at most 20 minutes (and one week to get the title in
the mail).  In regards to MA, I'm in FL - so hopefully
someone else will have answers there.

Lastly, if you do want it brought to you after you've
inspected it with another owner, I delat with A+ Auto
Transport.  They were very professional.  The driver
picked it up on Friday the 7th, and it was delivered
on Tuesday the 11th (back in 2003).  He did a
pre-inspection on the vehicle and had the previous
owner sign it, and then I inspected the vehicle and
signed for it.  I had his cell phone number so I knew
exactly where he was the whole time.  Very
professional - well worth the $775.00 I paid.

Good luck to you.

Jeremiah


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:42:25 -0500
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: April 30 exotic car show in Celebration Florida..



-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Levy [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Subject: [DML] April 30 show in Florida.

 I know you don't need a tux like the Ferraristi (I think that's slang for
Ferrari owners but spell-check doesn't like it!) because my wife Debby and I
where there last year and the exotic car people were not only civil but
actually very nice even though I don't own a tux either! The dinner is
optional anyway but we had a great time and I highly recommend it. A suit
and tie will do just fine but I don't think a tee shirt and bare feet will
work (are you reading this Walt?). Seriously though last years show was one
of the best car shows I've ever attended and I've been to a few! The cost to
bring your car last year last year was $50.00 and ALL the money goes to the
"Make-a- wish" and "Give kids the world" foundations which are fantastic
causes. Show how much class we as DeLorean owners have by shelling out the
$50.00 to enter your car regardless of condition and believe me you won't
feel like the "low end of the food chain"(no offense meant to you Mike as we
all have our own opinions) by the way you're treated there.  That we were
invited despite the fact that our cars were the least expensive there to me
is the sincerest form of flattery. Many spectators didn't seem to know nor
care that most of the cars there cost five to one hundred plus times what
our cars cost us. Our cars were put in a great spot near the hotel and
received a LOT of favorable attention. The show had not of the stuffy
politics I've seen at much lesser shows. As an incentive I will extend a 10%
discount on parts to everyone who enters the concourse for six months after
the show (some but not all kits are included in this offer). 

The head organizer Jeff Ippoliti, who owns several Ferrari's AND a DeLorean
BTW, is not only a class act but pulled out all the stops to make the
DeLorean people (including Deb and I) feel at home. Just ask the DeLorean
owners who stayed for the after-show party with free food and drinks if they
left feeling like second tier citizens...I think not! If you like exotic
cars and can make this show but choose not to IMHO I'd be tempted to look
for a hole in your head! Uhh oh! I'd better sign off before I put my foot in
my mouth again! 

Hope to see you there,

Rob Grady 

Does anyone have a cost estimate on this show?

http://www.celebrationexoticcars.com/


"Black tie dinner"?  Your telling me these people get
dressed up in tuxedo's for a car show?

A suit is one thing, but this DeLorean owner does not
own a tux.  :(





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 12:03:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel System Advice


> It
> won't be cheap and
> it won't happen quickly.

Sad but true...be patient and persistant.  Hit the
fuel and electrical systems first.  Those are the most
important.  Check your brakes and at least replace the
apds if the rotors and calipers are in good condition.
 Just take your time and you'll get there.

Jeremiah





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 22:05:22 -0000
From: "jstnrvs" <jreaves_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Front Coil Spring Removal



Hello All,
     I've having trouble removing my front coil springs.  I purchased
the Eibach suspension set, and I'm in the process of installing it.  
     I've tried two different spring compressors; both of them are the
type that goes inside the spring.  I can't seem to compress them
enough to get them out.  I can get them squeezed fairly tight, but
then the screw in the center of the compressor contacts the top of the
shock tower, and the spring is just expanded too much that the lower
coils don't clear the lip on the lower control arm.  Am I missing
something?  The workshop manual suggests disconnecting the lower
control arm from the hub carrier at the ball joint, but I have to
believe this spring should be able to come out without having to do
that.  Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Justin Reaves
VIN# 3568









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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 15:53:20 -0800
From: "darryl" <dtinnerstet_at_dml_centurytel.net>
Subject: RE: Getting Ready to Buy


<<do I venture driving the car several hundred miles 
home from possible points of purchase, or use someone like 
Dependable Auto Shippers to get it back home?>>

Advice from someone with experience - #1, spend the airfare or make the drive to check the car out in person, and #2, either drive it home or tow it yourself.  I have had 2 non-running DeLoreans shipped cross country to me, and shipped one with 81 miles on it all the way to Switzerland, all with no problems.  But with one a couple years ago, I watched in horror as the truck driver slipped the clutch so badly the car was engulfed in smoke!  And the latest episode was with the sale of BLWNAWY - I loaded the car onto the small rollback truck myslf and all was in order.  But for long distance transport they had to transfer it to a larger car hauler, maybe several times.  When the car arrived in Texas the clutch was apparently shot.  The transport company was Dependable Auto Shippers, so beware.  There is no way to prove they did anything wrong, but I have a witness to it being okay before it left (another potential buyer who drove it the day before it was sold).

Darryl T.  






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 13:25:29 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


I am fitting a Renault 25 turbo engine to my DeLorean. Although on the 
face of it it's quite dissimilar, with the use of an aftermarket 
distributorless ECU, the whole engine can be rebuilt identical to a 
DeLorean's (sump, crank case, timing cover, water pump, AC etc), the 
only difference will be the top of the engine with a much smaller intake 
manifold, single large throttle body sitting flat on the top centre, and 
a dirty great Garrett T3 at the back.

The other day I was talking to an old-timer at our Renault supplier. He 
went all misty eyed at the thought of a 25 turbo saying that "we never 
managed to get it to top out. We ran out of road at 148 and it was still 
pulling...".

On the inside, the Z7U (25 turbo ) engine is quite different, with 
forged pistons, sodium cooled valves, an even fire crank and 2458cc, but 
externally it's still a PRV. You can basically build it however you like.

Martin

stainlessilusion wrote:

>
>Okay so now that the talk of turbos has been thrown around the list
>for a while-I'm pretty interested. Can anyone recommend a what brand
>turbos are the best for the PRV, any model numbers-brands, what
>additional parts are needed/recommended, etc. If anyone could give me
>any information at all I'd appreciate it (on or off list). I already
>know I should change my pistons and the like, but I don't know
>EVERYTHING there is to know about turbos-thats where I hope some help
>from you guys comes in. Thanks guys----Dani B. #5003
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 02:10:34 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal


Check the archives for discussions of using 1" nylon tie-down
straps as spring compressors.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "jstnrvs" <jreaves_at_dml_optonline.net>: -------------- 
> Hello All, 
> I've having trouble removing my front coil springs.





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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 18:47:57 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Buy


TOO, TOO, TOOOOOOOOO, BAD,  I can pickup and deliver,
with phone calls to verify condition, for a whole lot
less than that.  I am a Delo owner and I am sick and
tired of JOE SHIT THE RAG MAN ripping everybody off. 
Yea, gas is $2.00+ a  gallon, but $775 to deliver a
car, com'on, let's treat each other with a little
respect. If I am totally off the wall for the price,
call me at cell (901) 494-4338 and I will give you an
honest quote for delivery or pickup. I am in Memphis
and I would love to help any, REPEAT, ANY DELO owner
in any way possible.

Mike  THE PIZZA SPECIAL


--- Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Let me save you from making a "huge setback" mistake
> like I did. Travel.  If you're looking at buying one of these
> cars - driving out to see it or even flying out shouldn't
> be but a flutter of your eyes....
> Lastly, if you do want it brought to you after
> you've inspected it with another owner, I delat with A+
> Auto Transport.  They were very professional.  Very
> professional - well worth the $775.00 I paid.





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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 03:42:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Buy



I've thought the same thing - if a particular car is potentially 
worth $15,000+, and worth paying someone $750 to truck it across the 
country, why isn't it worth a $250 plane ticket to see it first? It 
may turn out to be your best investment in the car, especially if you 
decide that the seller is lying and you avoid a 5-figure headache.

Buying blind might be worth the risk on a non-running/parts car, but 
if you are buying what you expect to be a good-excellent condition 
car, you, or a very trusted advisor, need to see it first.

With some shopping and flexibilty about flying at odd times, there 
are not many places you can't get to on the cheap.

Dave S (Looked at a (non DMC) car today in Baltimore, will come back 
out in two weeks and drive it home to IL.)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "darryl" <dtinnerstet_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> <<do I venture driving the car several hundred miles 
> home from possible points of purchase, or use someone like 
> Dependable Auto Shippers to get it back home?>>
> 
> Advice from someone with experience - #1, spend the airfare or make 
the drive to check the car out in person, and #2, either drive it 
home or tow it yourself.  I have had 2 non-running DeLoreans shipped 
cross country to me, and shipped one with 81 miles on it all the way 
to Switzerland, all with no problems. 








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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:57:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: April 30 show in Floridia..


Thanks for the info Jeff.

The cost of the show is $50, what is the cost of the
"black tie optional" dinner?

Oh, and can I participate and choose NOT to be judged?
 (Will still dontate the $50) If I drive the DMC
there, I doubt I will be in any contition to make any
significant effort to prep the car for competiton
after a 1050 mile drive.


--- jeff512tr <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello!
> My name is Jeff Ippoliti, I am the event chairman
> for this show and 
<SNIP>






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 04:21:53 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Buy and a very important fact


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> The title will be no big deal, the DMV will handle that when you 
are setting up plates for the car.
> Sandor
> # 3002
> 


Just a reminder,but some people do not know about this fact, now that 
the first year of the Deloreans are reaching their 25th year,IN SOME 
STATES (Connecticut for instance)when a car IS 25 YEARS or older,
some states WILL NOT ISSUE YOU A NEW TITLE,
in other words,the Title that you got when you bought your 
Delorean,when you go register your Delorean is --GONE FOREVER--NO NEW 
TITLE IS ISSUED-- So just make sure that if you have a 1981 
Delorean,that is not titled under your name yet,that you do it before 
the end of this year(2005),or else you wind up with JUST your latest 
registeration form as Your Title.And I know for a fact that some 
states STILL require a title even if the car is over 25years old,or 
if you sell your car to someone in a different country,that just 
might be impossible,without a title.So just make life just a little 
easier for yourself,or if you only want to resell in your state, take 
care of that detail, before this year ends.Every state has different 
MVD laws,so please check you state MVD laws on Motor Vehicles that 
reach 25 years or older.

Claude
no more DMCs
just a SV-1  








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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 08:45:13 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Removing old fuel hoses?



My fuel hoses going from the fuel pump and boot to the metal lines are
in bad shape, and I'm ready to replace them.  However, the fittings
are extremely tight (no hose clamps in original setup).  What is the
recommended method to detach the old, disintegrating hoses so I can
put on the new ones?  Is it simply a matter of pulling and twisting?

At the banjo fitting at the top of the pump, the banjo is simply
plugged into the hose.  I'm guessing sufficient twisting and turning
will finally disconnect this.  However, each of the other connections
involves a couple of hex, wrenchable fittings, but I want to exercise
caution with where these connect to the metal lines.  And it still
appears that the hose ends at the first nut, so I still have to
disconnect it.

I apologize in advance for the extremely basic question.  :-)

--Greg
#2894










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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 12:58:08 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo PRV.


David Teitelbaum wrote:

>
>I have to admit I never actually measured this. It could be that it
>isn't that big a problem on a Delorean since the turbos are rather
>small and would respond quickly. It is still possible though. There
>are decel poppet valves on the throttle plates that allow air to pass
>even with the throttle plates closed. 
>
I haven't looked lately but I thought these were safety valves that 
operated in the opposite direction to allow the engine to backfire 
without destroying the throttles. On the Renault engines, where the 
brass bypass screws are used, the throttles don't have these valves.

>In any case a blow-off valve
>(recirc or not) could only be a further safety item especially if
>something happened to the boost control or wastegate. 
>
Er, no, because they only do anything when the throttles are closed and 
there's a vacuum in the intake manifold. On the Island and BAE kits, the 
whole turbo is in a vacuum so a dump valve will do precisely nothing 
except maybe give a big vacuum leak.

> I do
>not like the recirculating type, they can increase the temperature of
>the incoming air charge, better to just dump it. I think the recirc is
>used because it is quieter. 
>
Possibly, but on any air-mass metered engine they are a must otherwise 
when you throttle back and the dump valve goes, it'll meter a load of 
air that's not actually going into the engine - consequence, soak the 
bores in fuel. On the legend engine, where the (effective) air mass 
meter is downstream of the turbo, the dump valve would have to be before 
the sensor plate, for exactly this reason. The ideal place for the 
turbos to be on the stock DeLorean engine would be between the sensor 
plate and the throttles. but this is hardly practical!

Martin





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 13:19:29 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal


Yesterday, I watched a friend do this job in about 5 minutes using an 
angle grinder on the old spring, while still held captive so it couldn't 
fly off anywhere. With a muffled "thung!" it just fell out. The new ones 
will be easier to put in because they're shorter.

Martin

jstnrvs wrote:

>
>Hello All,
>     I've having trouble removing my front coil springs.





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 15:13:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal


I don't think it can be done without disconnecting the lower control 
arm from the hub. It is a very dangerous job without the right 
tools - be careful.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jstnrvs" <jreaves_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
>      I've having trouble removing my front coil 
springs. .............. Am I missing
> something?





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 15:26:22 -0000
From: "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Johnny Carson Delorean For Sale



I understand the famous Johnny Carson Delorean will soon be offered 
for sale thru Motorcar Portfolio in Canton, Ohio. They can be 
contacted thru their site at www.motorcarportfolio.com.  It should be 
quite a collectable since the recent demise of Mr. Carson.








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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 16:42:53 -0000
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal


This is the most dangerous job on a Delorean, you need a professional 
grade coil spring remover not the toys they sell at most supply 
houses, I now have the horseshoe clamp type, you only have a coil 
spring break loose once to learn this lesson and hopefully your hand 
will not get caught in it because you were trying to tighten one of 
those cheap compressors like mine did.


> 
> 
> Hello All,
>      I've having trouble removing my front coil springs....  Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Justin Reaves
> VIN# 3568








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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:49:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: transmission.



Transaxle manufacturer: Renault
Transaxle Type: UN-1
Transaxle Model #: ?

The model # is unknown, because I've never been far enough under the 
car, to read it off the tag.

The estimations for power that the Renault UN-1 can handle vary 
between 250-350 bhp, and about the same for torque. After reading up 
on the abuse that these things take, I'd be willing to say that you 
could easily couple a 280bhp engine to the stock DeLorean trans, and 
be safe. ASSUMING that you didn't consistantly dump the clutch while 
red-lining the motor.

Now the UN-1 is capable of handling lots more horsepower and torque, 
but it's the input shaft that is the Achilles heel. The best 
explanation of this can be found here:
http://www.bell-performance.co.uk/gearbox%20upgrade.htm
And of course, stronger input shafts can be had.

As far as gear ratios go, many people looking for UN-1s for kit car 
applications seem to covet the gear ratios that we have stock. But if 
you wanted to get as close to the Lotus Esprits' gearing, but on a 
budget, then the Renault Fuego Turbo would be your best bet. The UN-1 
was used in lots of AMC/Renault cars from the 80's, and are hidden in 
a few junkyards.

And finally, you could pick up an ATB differential from Quiafe too.

Now that's about all I can write on the UN-1 just off the top of my 
head. So if you want to beef up your stock motor, or if you want an 
engine swap, know that with a little help, the 5-speed trans can 
handle almost anything you'd throw at it.

Me personally, if the turbos don't pan out the way I want them too, 
I've always got the Rover conversion to fall back on...
http://www.spagweb.com/v8mini/pievan/p00/v8_transaxle1.jpg

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I am wanting to know the name of manufacturer of transmission along 
> with the model etc. 
> 
> thanks again.
> 
> Rodney
> #3300








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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:54:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal



You have to get the spring compressor as far up to the top of the
spring as you can before compressing the spring. It might also be the
screw is too long so you may have to shorten it by cutting a piece
off. Measure twice-cut once!. Make notes on EXACTLY how you used the
spring compressor, it's position, angle, etc. Since you will remove it
from the old spring you will have to install it into the new spring
and compress it to install in the car. If you do it wrong you will not
be able to get the spring compressor out! Be real careful, there is a
LOT of power in a compressed spring. Don't go around hitting it,
bumping it, dropping it, etc until you can release the pressure. Use
the best tools you can afford. A cheapo compressor will not last and
is dangerous. If you can't afford to buy a good one (around $70) you
can rent them. Some auto stores even lend them for free (with a
deposit). Of course if you rent or borrow you can't cut it up to
shorten it. BTW for the front springs you have to use the internal
type and for the rears the external one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jstnrvs" <jreaves_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello All,
>      I've having trouble removing my front coil springs.  I purchased
> the Eibach suspension set, and I'm in the process of installing it.  
>      I've tried two different spring compressors; both of them are the
> type that goes inside the spring.  I can't seem to compress them
> enough to get them out.  I can get them squeezed fairly tight, but
> then the screw in the center of the compressor contacts the top of the
>








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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 10:11:12 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Millennium Concours update and additional details


I thought I'd provide the group with occasional updates and details on
the upcoming Millennium Concours at the DMC (Texas) open house. Although
the number of cars that can be effectively handled is limited, there are
still openings available for the event, and I encourage those interested
in participating to register quickly to help with some of the planning
of logistics details for the event.

 

As you all know, the concours has been reorganized and as a result some
changes that I think the competitors and DMC community will appreciate
are being pursued. Although the quality of the program that the event
has established a reputation for over the past several years will
continue, additional focus will be applied on making participation
rewarding and satisfying to those that want to give it a try. There are
some items in the works that we hope you'll all enjoy that I'll update
the group on later.

 

For those that might not have given the concours a try before but might
be curious about it, I'd like to share some of my perspectives on the
event. Hopefully some of the past competitors might also share some of
their perspectives on the experiences they had with the program as well.

 

I think the concours program has a number of aspects that I find
valuable and rewarding. For the times I have had the fortune of
participating, I have learned more about the various aspects of our
wonderful cars than I have through years of ownership. It has been
highly educational to me to learn about many of the interesting aspects
of our cars that come out during the process of the meticulous
inspection the program applies. There are some extremely knowledgeable
folks in our community that are very open with their expertise, and
participation in the event probably gives your car the finest inspection
it will ever have seen. In the judging process the focus has always been
on providing helpful information to the participants on the areas of the
car that are inspected, and the judging sheets you'll get back after the
event are probably the most detailed inspection checklist with
identified trouble areas you can get. Just the inspection value of the
event is fantastic in my mind.

 

Ken K. also runs a fantastic show and I'm sure some are planning ahead
for concours participation at that DCS '06. Past experience has
indicated that it's pretty rare to take the top spot at the first
showing and that often a top contender has run his/her car through a
previous event and as a result of identifying the issues and addressing
them have come back to perform very well at the next showing. For those
that are considering participating at Ken's next show, the DMC open
house may be an ideal opportunity to get some experience with the
concours and identify areas for refinement for the next go-around.

 

In my view, the program has nothing but upside. The worst competitors go
away with is a fabulous looking car with a meticulous inspection report
and a wealth of new knowledge. I'm not sure about the rest of you, but
personally I detail my show car for the pleasure and stress-relief
anyway, and take satisfaction in making it look fantastic. Having a
chance to show off your work at the DMC open house is a great
opportunity.

 

Maybe some of the past competitors might also share some of their
experiences so that folks who are on the fence might get more insight.
For those that might be interested, please feel free to contact me,
Dave, or Marty directly or post follow-ups to the dedicated
Millennium-Concours group.

 

                        Knut

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:12:08 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: The FV



Guys I just had a quick question about the frequency valve if anyone
can help me out. My engine idles fine when I hear the FV running, it
is the  distinct sound you can tell its running. Then it suddenly
cycles off and my engine idles a bit worse and starts to idle up and
down for a little while until the FV starts back up again. Problems
with the wiring or is this normal? Thanks for past and future help!!
-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:33:14 +0100
From: "Peter Brickwede" <Bricki_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: color of the rims


Hi everybody,

I just started to refurbisch the rims of my DL. Does anybody of you know the "original" color code of the silver color? Something like "brillant silver" won't help cause the guy who will paint my rims has about twelve different "brillant silver" (from BMW, Mercedes etc).

I got a hint from another owner that RAL 9006 will match best.

Any comments?

Peter
VIN 3834






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